wine column
the Chianti Code
by Tony Hernandez
Valentine’s evening, my wife had cooked a lovely meal and lit some candles; my only job was to supply the wine. Perfect, I had in my reasonable collection a Vigneti La Selvanella Riserva 1999 Chianti Classico that I was dying to open, and I wasn’t disappointed; lovely rich, plumy, oaky nose and silky smooth perfectly balanced on the palate, a beautiful wine. The only problem was... she liked it too.
Top 5 ❖ Tignanello 2004 by Antinori ❖ Chianti Via Ulivi ❖ Vigneti la Selvanella Riserva 1999 Chianti Classico ❖ Granaio Chianti Classico 2004 by Melini ❖ Badia a Coltibuono Riserva 2005 Chianti Suppliers: Try Anglo Wines www.anglowines.com, or the Marks & Spencer store in Gibraltar, both with a very good selection of Chianti and other Italian wines. Alternatives: If you can’t find Chianti at your local store, the Sangiovese grape has been introduced to Australian and American vines, just check the grape variety on the bottles. On the Spanish wines I would suggest you try the Enate Crianza Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot, from Somontano.
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When one is asked to think about Italy the few things that normally come to mind would be pasta, fast cars, gondolas or wine. Italy has been producing the latter for centuries. It was the Greeks who first introduced the grape vines to Italy and in turn gave Italy the name “Oenotria”, the land of wine. Practically anywhere you go in Italy you will find picturesque sceneries of vines growing on the hillsides, just a few minutes’ drive from wherever you are, and one of the most beautiful wine regions in my opinion is Tuscany, more specifically Chianti Classico. Chianti has had its ups and downs over the last three decades. In the ’70s it was an affordable Italian red wine popular with university students, drunk by the litre and recognised by its half straw woven bottles. In the ’80s and ’90s Chianti was pushed aside by the flood of new world wines, but watch out, Chianti is making a comeback. Only on the more basic Chianti will you still find the half woven bottles. The higher quality vineyards have smartened up, have elegant labelling, and have won prestigious awards around the world. Some of the best Chianti are amongst the “Super Tuscans” (Solaia, Tignanello) and are usually quite elevated in price. (If you are going for a super Tuscan look for 04 or 06 vintages, both great years) The grapes permitted for Chianti are at least 90% Sangiovese and Canaiolo, and 10% of other grapes, these could be Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot or even Syrah depending on the wine maker. New law permits Chianti to now have 100% Sangiovese. The style of wine a young Chianti will give you should be bursting with fruit and have good amount of acidity. Chianti that has been aged would often be mentioned on the label as the term “Riserva”; this Chianti can range from being silky smooth and low in acidity to dark coloured and oaky. If you are looking to age your Chianti, the Riserva would be best (I will talk about wine storage in a future issue). There are tons of different Chianti wine makers but only the vineyards that are members of the Consorzio del Marchio Storico- Chianti Classico can adorn the famous Gallo Nero (black cockerel). This does not guarantee a quality wine. In 1984 Chianti was promoted to the classification DENOMINAZIONE DI ORIGINE CONTRLLATA E GARANTITA (DOCG) which is the highest classification granted. Italian wines are regional and are at their best accompanied with dishes from the same area. Food in Tuscany tends to be prepared simply. Try a bistecca alla fiorentina served with fagioli (Tuscan beans) or a roasted wild boar or hare dish, a Chianti would be perfect for all three. That’s all for this month; remember the best wine is not the one I tell you or what you read in books, it’s the one you enjoy the most and the one that brings back the best memories. Keep tasting. n
In the ’80s and ’90s Chianti was pushed aside by the flood of new world wines, but watch out, Chianti is making a comeback GIBRALTAR MAGAZINE • MAY 2009