12:51 // 94-95 BODIES BODIES BODIES

12:52 WORDS CALLUM SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY LATEEF OKUNNU

12:51

12:50 "Where a certain Mr Rayner found “managed chaos” in 2018, I found urbane 12:49WORDS CALLUM SMITH refinement." 12:48 PHOTOGRAPHY LATEEF OKUNNU

12:47

12:46WORDS CALLUM SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY LATEEF OKUNNU

As the cold weather begins to trickle in through frosting windows and the ensuing energy crisis struggles to fight it off, some may feel it hard to find the Great in Britain. Yet, for better or for worse, London can very often feel immune and resistant to changes in the world outside of the M25.

Few places typify this better than the stretch of pavement that runs from Angel station to Highbury and Islington, Upper Street. Previously home to the radical left movements of the 70s and 80s, Upper Street now embodies a struggle between inclusivity and exclusivity. A £400m Islington Square development exudes wealth whilst cult nonconformist classics such as The Old Queens Head stand strong.

Somewhere between the two extremes lies Restaurant 12:51, the flagship venture of two-time Great British Menu winner, chef James Cochran. The British-born, Vincentian-Scottishchef is plying his trade further with 12.51. Given his pedigree of Brett Graham, The Ledbury, and Harwood Arms, as well as the well-documented fallout of EC3, four years down the line 12:51 is flourishing.

Where a certain Mr Rayner found “managed chaos” in 2018, I found urbane refinement. Flavours and combinations worthy of more than “chaos”, with nori butter focaccia, cured sea trout, dill emulsions, compressed cucumber fuille de brick and jerk spiced mutton all taking centre stage. Cochran’s indomitable jerk-spiced fried chicken bolstered by his own scotch bonnet chilli jam is worth the visit alone. Very little confused me, nor made me question the menu, bar whipped goats cheese, cured beetroot and buttermilk gazpacho which although beautiful wasn’t to my preference.

From the outside in, I could tell you 12:51 is a thirty-eight-cover, narrow one-floor eatery serving modern takes on British and pan-global classics, cooked expertly using quality local ingredients; in reality, this is food without frills or pretension for the sake of it, with five courses for £40.

12:51 is a personal letter from chef Cochran to chef Cochran with altruism at its core. 12:51 gives narrative to Cochran’s personal background and lived experiences (not always positive) whilst displaying his cultured and assuring dogged personality. The result, a restaurant possessing the aura of its animated surroundings and the charisma of its chef Patron. Go.