6 minute read
TOM KERRIDGE // 86-89 MASON HEREFORD
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WORDS & INTERVIEW JAI MCINTOSH
Often considered one of the nicer guys in the culinary world, chef Tom Kerridge has been a central figure in the UK hospitality scene for over two decades. Catching up with him, his relentless passion for the hospitality industry shines through. A genuine conversation with a chef that cares not just about his food, but the quality and health of the industry overall.
JAI The Hand and Flowers, which opened in 2005, is the first and only pub to win two Michelin stars. So, why a pub?
TK I worked in Michelin starred restaurants pretty much my whole career up to that point, but when it came to opening my own place I wanted it to be somewhere I felt comfortable, where I wanted to be on my days off. I wanted to remove the pretence of the Michelin star reputation - I wanted to do really good food in a comfortable environment. So for that, where better than a pub?
JAI You have explained before that you fell in love with the hospitality industry rather than food. Has this perspective evolved/ changed throughout your career?
TK If anything, I love the industry even more. I think as you go from being a chef to a restauranteur, you suddenly realise how wonderful the diversity of the industry is. As you spend time in a kitchen, you meet all sorts of amazing people but the front of house staff, the house staff, the HR, they all form the bigger picture. As my career has evolved, I have been able to notice more people in the industry, understand what their role is, and I want to support them as much as possible. The industry is driven by ingredients, I love cooking, I love being in the kitchen, that environment is amazing, that will never change. However, the more I get to experience the industry, it takes up more of my life now.
JAI How do you think social media has influenced the culinary scene both domestically and more generally?
TK The impact of social media has been huge. I remember being a young chef you would wait for a catering magazine coming out once a week, which is why there were not too many superstars in the industry at the time. Of course you had Raymond Blanc, Marco Pierre White, John Burton-Race, and Pierre Koffmann but now there are so many more people, the connection and diversity social media has displayed is pretty remarkable.
You can watch live video streams of what Alex Atala is doing in his kitchen in Brazil, that is just outstanding for young chefs. I wish I was a young chef now so I could see all of the different techniques, philosophies, and outlooks - all of which are correct - the subject is so vast. Chefs have the ability to connect on a global scale, you can build global communities it is an amazing opportunity. It has changed the industry without question. I don’t think social media has influenced my cooking style, but it has changed how we as a business operate. We are better able to connect with people and get messages across. I have found myself with a voice in the media, so I try to stand up for pubs, farming, fishing, even the impacts of brexit on the industry. We use social media to help support the bigger picture. That being said, sometimes we might get a message from the butchers across the road if they have two quality rib-eye steaks left (laughs).
Images and video go a long way, but the beautiful thing about this industry is that it is something you have to be part of, it is visceral. You go out to eat, you get to feel welcome, you have to engage with the food and the people, it is all encompassing. You gain far more from travelling, engaging with people, having those meaningful conversations around the food you’re eating.
JAI You were a key figure throughout lockdown in defence of the hospitality industry, but you also engaged in various charitable projects including the Meals From Marlow initiative and now the Day Off Dining. Can you tell us about this?
TK Day off Dining is us trying to give back to the hospitality community. It is a difficult
time at the minute, a lot of people are working hard, and people are not getting days off, especially in central London where we are certainly experiencing a staffing crisis.
We have launched Day off Dining for people in the industry to feel treated on their day off. People apply, we then pull random names out of the hat, and we invite you to dinner for two at Kerridge’s Bar and Grill, no bill at all, wines and food all sorted for you. We do this every single night, and honestly, it is just really nice.
As a bigger picture, we are in a lucky position to be able to do that. It is especially rewarding when people come down who rarely if ever visit central London and eat out here. It comes from our honest passion for the industry and the people involved.
JAI Real Life Recipes is due out this September, what can we expect from that?
TK It is about connecting recipes to real lives. I have found myself in the media, cooking aspirational dishes, using fancy equipment in a beautiful kitchen. Of course, television is escapism, but reality is far from that. These meals are pocket-friendly and grounded in what people actually experience, which is coming home and wanting to make something nice out of normal ingredients. We have included some recipes for the weekend which require a little more preparation, but ultimately these are recipes designed to maximise everyday ingredients.
JAI Having now worked professionally in kitchens for three decades, practising and refining your skills, what aspects of your culinary ability are you working on now?
TK As we have all gotten older, the business is established in a solid space. We want to do hospitality correctly, and that idea of improvement for me has now become more focused on the business rather than my technical skill. We want to make sure we have strong relationships, paying bills on time, and being reliable. This comes with time and dedication, but it is not easy. You can’t do everything, hence why I believe in incremental improvements. When we first started The Hand and Flowers, the goal was to be a little bit better every day. I was a young guy when I opened it, it was all about gradual improvement. We also focused on increasing footfall, turnover, revenue, profit, and investing back in the business which is always what we have done. We are working on our social and communal reach, we want to make a difference. We want to become more correct and connected.
JAI Right, you get home late from a gig and need to make something quick and delicious. What are you making? TK Right, listen (laughs). One thing I always have in my fridge is cheese; my go-to is grapes and cheese, maybe apples and cheese. No cooking, just opening the fridge! Trust me, it hits that sweet spot that I absolutely love. Unbeatable (laughs).
