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The Alternative Issue Cover star Tinchy Stryder Rose in the Concrete New music with Maluca, Zarif, Davinche, New Boyz Jerkin’ dance Michael Jackson meets Oscar The Grouch The Secret to Skank Subcultures The Cut Guide to NYC
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INTRODUCING – Chantelle; Kid British; Maluca; Theo Adams; Indy; New Boyz Jerk ; Yolanda Brown THIS IS REAL LIFE – Too Much Too Young; Plastic Surgery; Enterprise with Alice Bowe; Living with Cystic Fibrosis; Displacement
FEATURES – Tinchy Stryder; Subcultures; Young Londoners alternative Music; Challenging Homophobia with Stephen K. Amos
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She said… Nowadays many young people are trying to take an ‘alternative’ route to whatever they want to succeed in, whether its music or fashion or arts. But just what does ‘alternative’ mean anymore and is it still the way forward? We went on to find out for ourselves, making it the theme of this issue. Our main music feature is everyone’s favourite number one , Tinchy Stryder. This issue is bursting with young British music talent, including interviews with producer Davinche, saxophonist Yolanda Brown, violinist Adaggio, plus newcomers Zarif and Kid British. See what we thought of horse riding in our Sport 50/50 and check out what young people think about the young relationships in our ‘Real Life’ debate, ‘Too Much Too Young?’
He said… Aside from being rammed with interviews from the latest talent we think you should know about; Melo X, Maluca and Ferry Gouw, to name just a few, this Issue is all about the idea of the ‘alternative’. We look back over some of the significant ‘alternative’ youth subcultures from the past 60 years, and ask, is there such a thing as subculture in 2009? Skank out with The Cut team as we give you the low down on skanks for the summer which should definitely be practised before raving! We also meet all time photography hero Lawrence Watson. Read on, enjoy, and don’t forget to check The Cut website for all the latest news. www. thecutnewspaper.com.
FASHION – The Secret to Skank; Rose in the Concrete; Trendspotter; Alternative Fashion Week; The Devoted
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MUSIC – Zarif; Davinche; Melo X; Poppy and Jezebels; Michael Jackson; Brazen; Funky Sponsors
A L B U M O U T AU G U S T 1 7 T H Includes the Number 1 single featuring N-Dubz Plus Take Me back feat Taio Cruz and Never Leave You feat Amelle
www.starinthehood.net
Published by Hardcore Is More Than
The Cut
Cover photography by Kiran Nijjar
Music Ltd. This project is a partnership
258 Harrow Road
Styling by Jenny Barnes
between Hardcore Is More Than Music
London W2 5ES
Red jacket by Mishka
and Paddington Development Trust Funded by Westminster City Council
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as part of the Youth Enterprise Hub.
info@thecutnewspaper.com
Paper supplied with thanks to
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Inbox
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Funky Funky house has made you go down low, touch your head, shoulders, knees and toes, play your bongos but all of that’s giving me quite a bit of a migraine. Check out the next biggest funky song on the market, the ‘Cha cha cha’. And no, I’m not talking about that cheesy dance that tells you to hop twice, to the beat. It’s something fresh and new, produced and written by 19 year old Jam from North West London.
inbox Odd Kingdom Clothing Cut favourite Will Kay launches a new line of limited edition tees ‘Freedom is a Must/Conquer the Dream’. Get yours and wear his sick illustrations all over your person.
Surrender to the Poodle Cop your very own ‘Shamz Le Roc’ tee now @ an introductory price of £15. Available in black or white. You can’t go wrong. Bashy and Master Shortie, are already on the bandwagon. What are you waiting for?
Check it out here @
www.oddkingdom.co.uk
www.myspace.com/musicbyjam
info@oddkingdom.co.uk
And remember who told you first!
Purchase online now @
www.shamzleroc.bigcartel.com
Wah Nails WAH Nails Salon in Dalston opens it’s doors for the first time later this month. With WAH magazine’s track history, the place set to become a one stop shop for bling nails, hanging out and all things girl-cool in East LDN. Kingsland Road, Dalston, E8
http://www.wah-magazine.com
Miami Cocktails The Cut made it out to to Miami and boy! were those cocktails tasty. You can even do them non-alcoholic if you’re too young or on a detox. Bring a little Miami dopeness to your sofa with a Watermelon Mai-Tai. To make this drink suitable for non drinkers, leave out alcohol and increase the pineapple juice to 1 cup. I like to add the ice to the blender also and drink it like a slushy. Serves 4-8. Ingredients
• 500 g peeled watermelon
chopped 125 ml pineapple juice
• 125 ml white rum • 60 ml triple sec
Omaha Omene While the sunshines out it’s still all about the plimsolls, but if you want something a bit special get yourself a pair of these batik pumps, by fashion upstart Ohema Omene. http://www.ohemaohene.com
• 1 teaspoon grenadine • crushed ice, to serve Directions
Place the watermelon, pineapple
When You’re A Boy The latest exhibition at the recently revamped Photographers gallery celebrates cutting edge mens fashion photography and features legends Nick Knight and Jason Evans. www.photonet.org.uk
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juice, rum, liqueur and grenadine in the jug of a blender and blend until smooth. Divide the ice
among serving glasses. Pour over watermelon mixture to serve.
Where the Wild Things Are If you have not heard of Maurice Sendak’s book about monsters ‘Where the Wild Things Are” then you have not been a child. Replicants look away now! The 2009 film adaptation looks amazing and is directed by cult figure Spike Jonze and written by Jonze and Dave Eggers .The film combines live action, suitmation, animatronics, and CGI. Its release is currently scheduled for October 16th, 2009.
Hey Arnold Preview Next month will see the profiling of some of the capitals finest young talent at the Hey Arnold showcase in West London. Brought together by Arnold AJ and featuring a range of acts including comedians, musicians, poets and dancers the event is designed to entertain and bring together the youth of London while also give emerging talent a stage to perform on stage. The Hey Arnold showcase will be
launched on August 21st at the West London Academy in Northolt, Ealing. So get involved if not as a performer then as part of the audience and
support the cause. The Cut team are gonna be there, will you? For further information email heyarnoldcomedy@hotmail.com.
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introducing CHANTELLE medfordclark
“I feel like it takes the mundane and normal things in life and makes them into something beautiful.”
What’s it like working for Live magazine? Live magazine is really good, I do photography there and I think it’s something good to be involved with and to put on your CV. Anyone can come down and get involved if they want to, so it’s a really great opportunity to meet other people and stuff. So how did you get into photography? I first started liking photography at school in year 11, because I study media… I realised then that I just liked to take pictures. So ever since, I started doing it for fun, and then I ended up working for Live and doing other projects. It’s really great seeing your work in print. How would you describe your work? I like to take documentary style pictures, and pictures of things that people do in every day life. I feel like it takes the mundane and normal things in life and makes them into something beautiful. Ever since the Cut family collaborated with Chantelle Medford-Clark on a side project, we felt obliged to properly introduce the young lady to our readers. So here she is! Chantelle is an 18 year old student from south London with a raw talent for photography, and a remarkable ability to create effortless yet hugely authentic images of her own family and friends within the every day community that surrounds her.
Chantelle is an 18 year old student from south London with a raw talent for photography, and a remarkable ability to create effortless yet hugely authentic images…
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Hi Chantelle! Can you introduce yourself to our readers? Well my name is Chantelle, but people call me Giggles because I laugh a lot! I’m 18 years old. I do photography work for Live magazine, which is voluntary. I’m a student and I also work at Chessington theme park in South London.
Who or what would you say inspires you? I like Andrew Paterson’s work. (Canadian inter-disciplinary artist, famed for working with the video, live performance, original text, film and music). Finally, do you have any advice or tips for the young aspiring photographers out there? First of all, make sure you get permission to do your work so that you don’t get in trouble! I would also say start in freelance and do some voluntary work. That’s how I started out, and I think it’s the best way forward.
www.live-magazine.co.uk Text by Shona Harvey Photography courtesy of artist
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introducing KID BRITISH
“It’s because we are the iPod generation. There’s no rule that says you have to do one particular style.”
introducing MALUCA
“Anything inspires me, from what the kids are wearing on the street to a strange looking piece of fruit.”
Self professed musical chameleons Kid British are determined to put their stamp on music in 2009.
The Cut had a chat with Maluca to discuss cowbells, plantain and much more.
Would you call yourself a rapper? No I don’t, I call myself a vocalist.
know: ‘It’s more interesting if someone is from Leeds, and they’re telling me about a shop in Leeds where you can get something. Talk about ER and people in the UK ain’t gonna relate to it as much as talking about Coronation Street.’ Their lyrics, which have glimmers of the razor sharp wit of Mike Skinner, matter as much to them as a good sound.
B
ored of the glut of bland pop, which they describe as ‘that euro stuff, that Akon sound’, self professed musical chameleons Kid British are determined to put their stamp on music in 2009. Having just come back from several dates supporting The Specials, it seems like things are going to plan for the Manchester four piece, made up of Simeon, Adio, James and Sean. With their ska-infused/reggae/ hip–hop/‘impossible to pigeonhole’ sound, it comes as a surprise to find out the band have their roots in UK Garage.
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‘If it wasn’t for that, there wouldn’t be that togetherness. People like So Solid, Pay As You Go, Heartless - none of them would remember us now. It sculpted our writing, writing about what we see comes from Garage.’ In fact, it was Garage that inspired them to experiment with Hip Hop. But the band see their willingness to experiment across the genres as just a sign of the times, ‘It’s because we are the iPod generation. There’s no rule that says you have to do one particular style. A lot of people are getting more accustomed to other cultures now.’
Despite what the band say, their eclecticism must also have something to do with their open and receptive personalities, as well as the fact that their tastes have evolved together. ‘As you get older you open your mind to other stuff. There’s a lot of people that don’t do that. Look at Dizzee, he has that open attitude, and that’s how he can headline Glastonbury.’ Despite their worldly outlook, as a band Kid British are distinctly proud of the Mancunian roots, and believe musicians should revel in local culture to talk about what they
Who are your main influences? Well, hands down ESG are my biggest influence musically and in style. Anything inspires me, from what the kids are wearing in the streets to a strange looking piece of fruit. When did you get started? I really started to get my feet wet, when my boy TJ from a band called The Bowery Riots asked me to join them as a back up singer. It’s a retro rock and roll band. They even gave me a solo - I covered “Be My Baby” by The Ronettes,
‘We have a social message, and I think that’s something that’s missing from music. There are a lot of people trying to make quick pounds, but there’s no substance. They’ll be forgotten about in a year when the next fad comes in next.’ So what’s next for Kid British? ‘You got to push yourself and challenge yourself. Music changes and you need to be able to manoeuvre.’ With festival dates at V, Underage and a UK tour underway this summer catch them if you can. Whatever happens next you can guarantee it won’t be more of the same’. www.iamkidbritish.com www.facebook.com/kidbritish Text by Amanda Harinna Photography by Rasharna Hylton
I see you’re down with the Mad Decent team, how did that come about? I met Wes (DIPLO) a few years ago. El Tigeraso was something we did for fun, for the sake of experimenting.
M
aluca - the hottest Dominican on the block! Her sexy vocals and uptempo music has New York’s Downtown scene creaming their pants and she’s most definitely set to blow up this summer with her hit, El Tigeraso. I had a chat with her to discuss cowbells, plantain and much more.
The name Maluca’s rather sexy, what does it mean? Maluca means crazy girl in Portuguese. Dope! So does this have influence on the style of your music? I don’t think it influences my music but more so describes my style. ‘Maluca’ is an adjective so one can say my music is maluca.
The energy from your performances are insane. I’ve seen you use a special instrument on stage... Yes - my special instrument is a cowbell! I will be adding other instruments to my shows so watch out!
wouldn’t call it success as yet because I still got a long way to go, but whatever it is, it feels good! I’ve been so shy about my music for so long, so my friends are glad to see me come out of my shell and it feels good to have them by me and have my hood support and rep me! How did it feel to do show a in London? People kept saying London is a really tough crowd to win over but it felt good to be out there. The last time I was in London in 2003 there was a heatwave and when I was just out there for my show it was so beautiful and sunny - just luck I guess? What’s in store next? I need to plan on paying my phone bill, shit is very real now! An album will happen eventually, but I’m in no rush. Plantain or Fried Chicken? I’ll take some fried chicken with a side of plantains. Please.
Check Maluca out at www.myspace.com/malucamala
You’re ripping up the scene right now in New York. How are you taking the successI
Text by Shamz Le Roc Photography courtesy of Peggy
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introducing THEO ADAMS
introducing INDY selvarajah
“I think people need to be really proactive and get their stuff out there, by any means…”
If you want to see something really different, you should look up performance artist Theo Adams.
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or most of us, an ‘alternative’ night out might be one at the theatre, or an art gallery. But if you want to see something really different, you should look up performance artist Theo Adams.
fearless, try unconventional methods. If you don’t like what you see on TV or don’t think the current comedians are doing anything interesting or groundbreaking - then change things yourself.
Theo is an artist but the work he creates can’t be hung on walls: ‘It’s an amalgamation of all the different inspirations and visions that spin around in my head,’ he says. ‘I create work that includes dance, music, singing, performance, costume and film. I like to use the term ‘performance art’ because art has no rules so it’s probably the easiest way to define what I do.’ His work comes in various forms, ranging from stage shows to magazine spreads. ‘For one of my recent shows, I explored the power of the colour red. I covered the entire stage in red stilettos, red lipsticks and eventually a whole red room appeared from the darkness, filled with my orchestra dressed all in red. My latest project with W magazine was influenced by a newspaper article from 1904 entitled ‘Woman Danced to Death’. It may sound bleak but to me it’s also an example of joyous, passionate expression.’ It might come as a surprise to learn that Theo is just 19. At an age where many of us are on directionless gap years or settling into our first year at university, it’s heartening to
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know that someone is carving their own path. In fact Theo’s been doing this since he was 15. Who could have guessed that in just four years time he would be heading his own theatre company and performing with Lorna Luft, Judy Garland’s daughter? ‘I left school early because I wanted to concentrate on what I wanted to do. I have always been ambitious and incredibly impatient. I guess that’s why I’ve got to this position at my age.’ He started out performing in nightclubs, ‘…incredibly inspirational and creative hubs like Anti Social, Kashpoint and Family. Everyone’s drunk
and the bottom line is that it’s a party. They are great, but I wanted to do some full length productions.’ As his shows and venues grew, so did his team: ‘What’s really fantastic is that everyone is a huge character and
“It’s an amalgamation of all the different inspirations and visions that spin around in my head”
completely individual but we all gel together. Nobody is afraid to bare their souls or dance ‘til they bleed!’ Theo always seems to have so much going on. ‘It can be very exhausting at times. I have no manager, PR assistance or funding, so I have to do everything myself. I know how lucky I am so I can’t complain - I do what I do because I genuinely love it. It’s the best way for me to express myself. Passionate performance, whether it’s on stage, on film or in life, is what’s important to me.’
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t just 28 Indy Selvarajah has written and starred in his own show on Channel Four ‘Ain’t It Funny Being Coloured’. Now working on a new series with Mackenzie Crook and the crew from The Office, which is set to hit our screens later this year, it’s been a whirlwind year for him. The Cut spoke to him about his alternative route into TV, and discovers more about how his unconventional attitude has paid off. Indy, can you describe yourself in three words? Rock the boat.
www.theoisamazing.blogspot.com Text by Jenny Barnes Photography by Ellis Scott
You’ve had an unusual route into comedy, how did it all begin for you? I used my
art background to create a comedy website that featured my own animations, articles, graphics and illustrations. Knowing what a closed world TV can be, I had to somehow get the ‘right’ people to see my work, so made business cards which I left on the desks of all the great and good in the comedy world. I got a phone call from the guys over at Charlie Broker’s company Zeppotron, who really liked what I was doing. Channel 4 commissioned me to write my own show literally two months after that. The show ‘Aint it Funny Being Coloured?’ aired as part of the Comedy Lab season and did really well. It got the highest ratings for that season, almost half a million
viewers, and a fair amount of complaints too (which is never a bad thing!). What are you working on at the moment? I’ve just finished shooting a new sketch show called Team UK with some of the guys from The Office, which we’ve written and are starring in. I’m developing new material for the BBC comedy website, writing a new sitcom and working on my first novel. How do you think young people could be encouraged to support or show more interest in British comedians? I think young people need to be really proactive and get their stuff out there, by any means. That’s what I did. Be
What do you think of racial sketches? Do you think that ‘Silence I kill you!’ sketch by American comedian Jeff Dunham is funny, or a step too far? The show I wrote for Channel 4 was loosely based around issues of ethnicity and race - but also the ludicrousness of PC culture. My new material has elements of race within it, but its not the be all or end all. First and foremost, it has to be funny and inclusive. But I also think that, within the correct context, anything is game. I think a white, working class person should be able to comment on black issues or vice versa as long as it’s coming from an insightful, truthful, intelligent and funny place. Who are your comedy heroes? George Carlin, Richard Pryor, Jim Henson, Chris Morris, John Candy, Julia Davis. Tell us a joke!… Why do squirrels swim on their backs? To keep their nuts dry.
Watch ‘Aint it Funny Being Coloured’ on 4oD http://www.comedy.org.uk/ guide/watch_online/4od/ Text by Adrianne McKenzie Photography by Kiran Nijjar
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introducing jerkin’
introducing yolandA brown
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for the Jerkin scene. The new song and video, which was directed by Matt Alonzo and exclusively presented by Skee TV (Dj Skee). The new video titled ‘You’re a Jerk’ has had a massive 2,691,210 views, and it’s only been up for a month! To us at The Cut New Boyz Ben J and Legacy are like a mix of The Cool Kids and The Pack. This is because they have the swagger of The Cool Kids (retro styles) plus the lyrical content
A Step Closer was and is a successful album. What are your plans for the future? At the moment I am working on a collaboration. The album will be coming towards end of this year, which I am really looking forward to. A Step Closer was a taster of what it could be. Being at the forefront of the UK jazz scene has taken you to perform all over the world. Which performance was the most inspirational for you? Goodness! You just get to absorb the culture and it’s a new experience. Emotionally performing in Jamaica was important, because my family are from there. I was going back to my roots. But performing in Spain, too… I lived in Spain for a year, so I really got to absorb their culture. Every place has a different feeling so it’s hard to pick one place.
The revival of the 90’s jerkin dance, which has been revolutionized by south Californian teenagers, has been a big hit all over the internet.
f you like the retro scene, suck on the skin clothes and skinny jeans, this resurrected dance craze will get you bumping and just like the song says ‘Jerkin’. The revival of the 90’s dance, which has been revolutionized by south Californian teenagers, has been a big hit all over the internet. With everybody doing the jerkin dance, a group called the New Boyz who are signed to Asylum Records set out to make the official anthem
“Music is about conversation, not just about getting on stage and playing. For me it’s trying to get my story across…”
Now I feel that eyes are on me but that’s what I always wanted. The MOBO bought more attention, but I haven’t changed anything and the plan is still the same.
S
ince winning a MOBO award in 2008, Yolanda’s career as a saxophonist has gone from strength to strength. She tells us what it has taken to achieve her current success and why you should always stick at it.
“The new video titled ‘You’re a Jerk’ has had a massive 2,691,210 views, and it’s only been up for a month!”
and the hard bass instrumental beats that The Pack use; this equals none other than the New Boyz. These guys are very inventive and are only in high school! Ricardo says:
“You got to be serious” Silas says: “I cant believe it” These guys are going to have a big future if they keep on making good music and stay geeked up. Check out their mixtape ‘Jerk Mixtape’ and their single and video on youtube ‘Youre A Jerk’. www.myspace.com/newboyz Text by Ricardo Nunes and Silas Osei
You grew up in east London, which is not very well known for its jazz scene, so what inspired you to start playing the saxophone? I played a whole range of instruments - violins, drums, piano - and then I just felt I wanted to play something from within. I played recorder as most of us do and just went to the saxophone by myself. How long has it taken you to reach the standard you’re at today? I’ve been playing for 13 years - did I just give away my age? The saxophone was
under the bed for a while when I was doing my A-levels, then I took it with me to university and then when I went to Spain for a year. Four years on I joined Black Grape Production, who still manage me now. The music industry can open many doors for a young and talented woman such as yourself. Where do you want it to take you? Music is about conversation, not just about getting on stage and playing. For me it’s trying to get my story across, whether about love or hardship. The music industry is very open to new things like grime music and all these new skanks, so it’s nice to just be myself on stage. What would you say marks out your style? I play in a bit of an unorthodox style, maybe because I haven’t
been taught. It’s like driving: when you learn to drive by yourself you have bad habits. I just play from emotion, so if I am a bit tired you will hear that in the song I am playing. A lot of my music is about telling a story and letting the audience know how I feel. I don’t know if other players do that but that is what drives me. You’ve worked with the likes of Sway and performed with jazz calypso legend Russ Henderson. Who else would you like to work with? I’d love to work with John Legend, Stevie Wonder and Alicia Keys, but outside the soul scene I would say Elton John. Have you noticed there being a rise in expectation since winning a MOBO? I’m not sure whether expectation is the word but maybe it’s true.
If you didn’t play saxophone what would been you be doing? I am doing a PhD in Management Science at the moment. I would have gone into management consultancy or teaching music, because that is a passion of mine. What last message would you give to young musicians? Making sure you know and you feel what your main goal and aim of the music is. Once you believe and have the confidence to perform and know your music then people will love it. It won’t come automatically. I still haven’t launched my debut album yet. At the end of the day if you continue to believe then just do it. You will see success at the end of the journey.
www.yolandabrown.co.uk Text by Damian Malontie Photography courtesy of the artist
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Every Issue The Cut holds a discussion of a particular topic so we can hear what’s on peoples minds regarding the state of the world. This time around, we’ve been reading so much about girls getting pregnant at like age 12 and some people even getting married not much older that we wanted to know is it all just too much too young? With one of our busiest turn outs yet, we got to grips with some taboo subjects and found out there was a lot of wisdom in the room.
What do you think about young teenagers having sex? Damian I think it’s down to poor education on that subject, and I also think that their parents should sit down and talk to them. Akwasi I think that everybody is ready in their own time; some people develop faster than others. I know people who had sex at 13 and they were ready. So basically everybody has their own time. Steve It depends on the parents as well. If you come from a background where your parents had kids early then the child is more likely to get pregnant early, because parents are a role model for their kids.
Why do you think so many young teenagers are having sex at such young ages? Drew I think it’s down to peer pressure, especially if you hang out with older boys and they are encouraging you to go and chirpse girls. Dami I think that peer pressure is worse for boys, because I don’t think girls are pressured into having sex. Even if a girl has sex with one boy she could get called a hoe, so that would put them off. Ayo Not really because I have a cousin, who is 14 and her friends are having sex and they encourage her to have sex, so girls do get pressured. Steve I think that religion is also an issue, if you are a Muslim then sex is forbidden also for young Christians. So if you are a proper Muslim or Christian then you won’t have sex. Ennie Not necessarily because I knew a boy who was Muslim and he was the most sex centred person I know! Do you think that the government is doing enough to prevent teenage pregnancies? Dami There’s so much out there now, so I find it strange when people do get pregnant. You can use condoms, you
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can go on the pill, there’s the morning after pill, I mean everyone knows about it, it’s just whether or not you choose to use it. So I don’t think that people can say that people aren’t provided with enough information, it’s just whether or not people use it. Akwasi I don’t think it is to do with the government; it’s to do with the society we live in. Everywhere you look there’s something that says sex, sex, sex. If you turn on MTV you have Ciara and Justin Timberlake, with Love, Sex and Magic. If you look in the magazines, there are people falling out of clubs. So I don’t think the blame should be placed on the government. Damien The government is not trying to tell people not to have sex, but telling people about ways to not get pregnant, maybe they should just say don’t have sex. Dami But how many people actually really listen to the government. Ayo I think in schools they should have proper sex education, not just teachers who say you can get Chlamydia, go look it up on the internet. Dami Yeah I think sex education should be better, because we went to Catholic schools and it was basically
just a video and the teacher left the room and we watched it , and that was it. Do you think a young teenager; around 13 upto 16 can have a serious long term relationship? Damian I’m still with my girlfriend who I’ve been with since I was 16 , but I’d say that I wouldn’t recommend it, because even though I was happy there were times when it was just too much, I think it’s too much to have a serious relationship at that age. Dami I seriously don’t think that age dictates maturity, because you can be 18 and act 14, or be 14 and act very mature. However I do think that at 14 you’re to young to be that serious about one person, but at the same time I don’t think you can say no you shouldn’t have a relationship.
Many adults and even some teenagers say that some teenagers are too young to know what love is. Do you agree with that? Ayo But some adults don’t even know what love is. Dami There’s no age limit on it, you can fall in love at any age. Maybe you could be too young to understand it but not too young to be in love. What do you think of age gaps in relationships, is age just a number? Damian It depends how big the gap is. If it’s a 14 year old going out with a 30 year old that’s just wrong. Akwasi I could go out with someone that was younger than me. But I would just feel like I’m taking advantage in a way. If you’re like 18 and going out with someone who’s like 15 that person hasn’t even done their GCSE’S yet. Ennie I think that you can learn something from
someone who is older than you and yeah you may have differences and you do need common ground but for some people it works. I don’t think you can put a number on a relationship if it works it works. I’ve seen a lot of young teenagers dressed quite provocatively, do you think that fashion for younger people is a bit too much too young? Dami I think it’s down to a generation difference, like we had Barbie now they have Bratz. Bratz are prostitutes, they wear fishnets tights and heavy make-up. Fashion is getting more sexed up as the years go by. Steve But in the 90’s that was pretty sexed up too Dami Yeah but I think it’s getting worse now. Ayo With fashion nowadays buying clothes for little girls, it’s either really long or too short, there’s no in between. Steve It’s down to the
parents as well, if your child is under a certain age then you’re the one buying the clothes, so you have control over what they wear. Dami Most things that children watched have teenagers in it that aren’t actually teenagers, for example with High School Musical. So the people they look up to and the fashion they follow is teenagers fashion. What do you think of too much responsibility too young? Damian I think that a certain amount of responsibility is good but not too much. Dami People who have that level of responsibility don’t have the chance to grow up and enjoy their childhood so I don’t think it’s fair. Do you have something to say? Would you like to get involved in the next issues debate? Email info@thecutnewspaper.com
Text by Roxanne Swan and Drew Malk Photography by Edward Kagatuzi
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he Cost of a new Face? About £20,000. Young people are increasingly turning to plastic surgery, some before they are even 16 years old. The Cut set out to find out the latest trends in plastic surgery for young people and the extreme costs facing those who go in for surgery.
1. Eyelash Thickening Latisse is a brand developed from a drug used for Glaucoma in hospitals. It has been found to make eyelashes grow longer, thicker and darker with daily application. A bottle of this will set you back about £100 and has to be used daily or the effects stop.
4. Chin and Jawline The new UltraShape device for fat reduction without liposuction or surgery is particularly popular with young people wanting to slim their chin and jawline. Cost £750 per treatment- you need several treatments so the final bill coming in around £2250.
2. Skin There is a lot of buzz about a new cream, a jar form of Botox that allows younger users to benefit from eliminating wrinkles. Hang on a sec, do 16 year olds even have wrinkles? Costs about £200.
5. Nose Rhinoplasty or ‘nosejobs’ have been around since ‘40s Hollywood. These days the trend is for ‘Five minute nose jobs’ or having fillers injected into the nose to reshape without having to have surgery. Megan Fox is rumoured to have had a notch in her nose evened out this way. Cost varies but starts at about £2000.
3. Body Going abroad is one definite trend. Countries like Brazil and Thailand do not have the same age restrictions. Young models in Brazil are often actually recommended to undergo liposculpting on their stomachs and thighs. This will set you back £2,000, less than the UK but you have to pay for your airfare!
I am glad I didn’t know too much about business theory. I followed my instincts and thought about the things that impress me about a business, like good customer service, and sort of made it all up as I went along.
8. Lingual Braces “Traintrack” braces on the back of your teeth start at £5000.
Text and photography by Rasharna Hylton and Shannara Hylton
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(12 miles North of Oxford) http://www.rousham.org/
in restraint, a garden of undulating hills punctuated by follies and water. This is an uncommercial garden with no tearoom and no shop – just bring a picnic and it is yours for the day. 2/ Gresgarth Hall (just outside Lancaster) http://www.arabellalennoxboyd. com/gresgarth/ The garden of Arabella Lennox-Boyd is open to the public once a month in spring and summer. A classic English country garden, with a feast of roses,
7. Teeth Zoom teeth whitening £400.
10. Ears This procedure called Otoplasty is to pin back ears that stick out. Costs about £1500.
1/ Rousham House and Garden
The garden at Rousham is an exercise
One of the best - and worst! things about my job is that no two days are ever the same. I can be dashing from a meeting in a muddy field to picking out plants at a nursery to a photo shoot: there’s certainly no time to get bored. Days on site rely on daylight so that means an early start in the winter. Meetings can start at 7am so if I have to travel deep into the countryside, it can regularly mean getting up at 5am!
6. Acne and Scar Removal NLite laser treatments start from £275 and you will need a course of 3. Total cost £825.
9. Eyelids Blahroplasty to lift ‘saggy eyelids’ and make eyes appear larger or under eyes appear less baggy. Between £2000-£8000.
Alice’s Top 5 Gardens (The Cut recommends taking a summer picnic and soaking up the rays):
A
t 28, Alice Bowe is one of the leading garden designers in the UK. Alice has just started presenting on BBC1, she has a book on sustainable gardening coming out next spring and she writes a regular column for The Times. The Cut found a sunny spot to hear more about Alice’s story and get some insider tips on the best gardens in England.
How did you decide to go into garden design? As a teenager I used to be dragged kicking and screaming around National Trust gardens with my family. I found it so boring, but something obviously went in because over the years I became more and more interested in gardens and planting design. I had a surprising amount of confidence when I started working as a garden designer: I knew I could do it. How did you go about setting up your business and were there any days when you had doubts? As a student, I was asked to take on a large restoration project in Oxfordshire. Suddenly I was having to learn about invoices and accounting and branding and self-employment. It was all a bit daunting. Looking back,
You recently presented on the Chelsea Flower Show for the BBC. How did you find being in front of the camera? It’s always exciting to go to the Chelsea Flower Show but it was even more exciting to get to see how it all works behind the scenes. Chelsea was the first time I’ve appeared in front of a camera for TV, and I must admit the idea was a bit scary at first but once we starting filming I forgot about the cameras and the million odd viewers and we had a really good laugh.
a kitchen garden to die for and long, blousy herbaceous borders. 3/ Marjorelle (Marakesh) www.jardinmajorelle.com This elegant Moroccan garden boasts lush vegetation, clean lines, bright colours of blue and gold with plenty of water. Created by painter Jaques Marjorelle in 1931 and now owned by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge. 4/ Hadspen www.thehadspenparabola.com Another garden run by painters
What are you up to at the moment? I’m working on a new book, which is very much focused on showing that contemporary design does not have to be bad for the environment. In the meantime, you can look out for me in a Gardeners’ World Special in November.
obsessed with colour. I was particularly influenced by their use of red, purple and orange and by their yellow borders. Although Nori and Sandra Pope have now returned to Canada, and the garden is no more, their plant introductions (especially Astrantia ‘Hadspen Blood’) will stay on my plant list forever. A new garden is now being built on the site and I am watching the progress with interest. 5/ The garden I am currently designing for a client in Lincolnshire is pretty close to perfect for me. I’m going to be sad when it’s done!
To see Alice’s Garden’s check out
19 acres of parkland and formal
www.alicebowe.co.uk
gardens surround a Georgian farmhouse with wide herbaceous
Text by Nendie Pinto-Duschinsky
borders, simple garden rooms and
Photography by Luli
views across the countryside.
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I arrived on March the 8th, and before going to the home office, I had to become a squatter, sleeping on the street. I was with another 5 people who were in a similar position to me.
C
ystic Fibrosis is a condition, which affects approximately 8000 people in the UK. It is a condition that affects the glands, and results in disfunctioning of important organs such as digestive system and the lungs. Paulina Gorelik is a 22 year old graduate who shares her ‘Real Life’ experience with The Cut, and talks about how CF has affected her life, also she shares ways to think positively about the situation. When and how did you find out you have Cystic Fibrosis? I found out when I was 12, straight after my mum and me moved to England. I was getting very ill and in the country I’m from at the time they didn’t have a clue what was wrong with me. It took the doctors here about 30 minutes to diagnose me. So I actually consider myself a very lucky person, moving here and having the right treatments gave me a chance to have a life, like go to school, travel, and get a degree (I’ve just finished my BA in Fine Art). How do you feel this condition has affected you personally? How has life changed for you when you found out you had the condition? When I was growing up I didn’t really consider myself to be ill, my parents never let me feel sorry for myself and I always did everything I wanted to. I occasionally had to go to hospital for a course of
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intravenous antibiotics and do physio but it never really bothered me. When I was about 18 my health started to affect me much more, my lung function declined and the reality of a shorter life kicked in. Suddenly I realised that it was a big part of my life and the hardest bit was having to learn how to balance it and try to separate me as a person. Some days having cystic fibrosis makes you feel quite inadequate and it does make you work 4 times harder for things but then again, kind of in a funny way it empowers you. I just had to learn that it is very important to take it one step at a time and accept that some things will come slightly more difficult to me than other people, and that it is absolutely fine as I enjoy everything I do that bit more. What does your daily routine consist of? Doing physiotherapy, using a nebuliser, having different kind of antibiotics all the time. Taking good care of yourself is much harder than just taking a few tablets and, especially when you want to have a normal life and go out and get drunk like everyone else, so I do have moments of complete resentment when I just want to shut the door, join the circus and never look at another tablet for as long as you live. But then I realise that by getting everything right and keeping on top of your treatments you are giving yourself a better chance.
On arrival, what were the difficulties that you faced in terms of survival? Well finding food in order to survive was quite hard. I was reduced to opening food packets in the supermarkets. Getting around was also quite hard at first as I knew little English, and the stress of missing my family was getting to me. But I managed to pull myself together, and the people here were really kind and helpful. What do you want to do in the future? I want to play professional football for Arsenal. I have also got an apprenticeship as a defender for Crystal palace.
How does it affect the people around you? You do find out who your real friends are when you at your worst. You do sometimes worry about how other people see you and if you are a bit of a burden to your loved ones, but I think as long as you accept yourself as you are and if you are there for other people and accept them for who they are, you’ll get the same in return. How has this affected your perspective of life? What have you learnt about yourself as a result of having this condition? As it is a progressive disease I don’t know what the future holds, I do find it hard sometimes as I’m a planner by nature. I may be lucky and have a successful lung transplant and live for many years, or I may not, time will only tell. I had to reprogram the way I approach life and actually I’ve become a more balanced, less neurotic version of myself. I take time now to enjoy things; I try to say yes to every opportunity I am given.
What about school? Did you have an education in Algeria? I left school because of personal problems when I was fourteen, but I start again in September to learn .
You either live your life or you don’t. Also not having to think about saving up for a pension or getting a mortgage gives me freedom to think about other things like going travelling and doing everything I always wanted to do. What piece of positive advice would you give to other young people with Cystic Fibrosis? To look at it as a challenge to yourself, the press tends to dramatise CF which I find frustrating as new parents with children who have CF must find it really daunting and frightening, but medication is improving all the time, a lot of people have successful lung transplants and carry on having a normal life. You always have to remember that life is what you make it. Text by Ronnie Grebenyuk Photography by Cassie Clarke
M
ost sixteen year olds are able to go where they want, meet up with friends to have fun at the cinema and go to parties. Sometimes it hardly even occurs to us that many young people have to overcome great hardships and grow up really quickly just to survive. The Cut’s Alpha Gougsa and Roshni Patel visited the West Croydon Refugee Day Centre to meet one such
young person. We were very inspired and uplifted to hear Roudane’s story and his ambitions for the future.
own father died when I was sixteen. I also felt there would be a better life in England as well as more freedom.
So tell us a bit about yourself? Where are you from? How old are you? My name is Roudane and I’m sixteen and I come from Algeria.
Do you have family in Algeria still? Yes, my mum and my sister.
What made you come to the United Kingdom? I left Algeria because I never got along with my stepfather. My
How did you arrive in the United Kingdom? I first travelled from Algeria to France in a boxed container, then from Belgium to England in a lorry.
Roudane is an Algerian immigrant, who has been in the UK for several months. Although he misses his family back home, he doesn’t see himself returning to Algeria. Like Roudane there are many similar in his situation. He spoke of fellow young people who he met in the United Kingdom from other countries, some of which had walked from Iraq to Afghanistan in a desperate attempt to live in the United Kingdom, whom aspire for a better standard of living. On the other hand, although Roudane seems very content with his new lifestyle, for many of those from foreign countries, they face a bleak lifestyle, with no family, no friends, and of course the added problem of poverty. However, the West Croydon Refugee Day Centrehelps people from different countries to come together and to feel part of the community. Text by Alpha Gougsa and Roshni Patel
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TINC HY STRY DER 20 THE CUT
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HY STRY DER
DER “I’m just trying to keep that new sound and I’m experimenting all the time.”
This issue
is themed around the alternative ideas and icons that come to influence mainstream culture. There are so many questions we debated here at The Cut like can artists have mainstream success and still be true to their underground roots? Our cover star, Tinchy Stryder seems to have done just that. At 23, Tinchy is not only a hero of the underground grime scene but a phenomenal breakthrough artist following the success of smash hit single ‘Number 1’ which topped the charts for three weeks. Tinchy Stryder’s album ‘Catch 22’ has just hit the shelves. The Cut’s Drew Mark tracked Tinchy down to find out how he’s achieved what so many artists find near impossible; respect in the underground and mainstream superstardom.
TINCHY STRYDER IS NOW A WELL KNOWN NAME across the charts. Are there any stories behind your name & the name of Ruff Sqwad? I’ve always been one of the smallest out of my friends and Tinchywas just a nickname that came along. As for Stryder, every MC in those days had a second name so Tinchy by itself wouldn’t feel right and there was an old school Megadrive game called Strider. I didn’t like or play the game, I just knew of the name and ran with it. And with Ruff Sqwad, I don’t even know – maybe we just thought we were rough or something! As an artist what would you say have been your biggest achievements and how do you want to be remembered? As an artist I would have to say getting to Number 1 in the UK charts obviously. As for what I’d like to be remembered for, I don’t feel I’ve done it just yet so I couldn’t tell you. It’s still quite early but it’ll be something real big. You have had both an album and a clothing line called ‘Star In The Hood.’ Do you see yourself as a role model to youth from a similar area and background as yourself? It’s mad because before I wouldn’t see myself as one but now I think there are a lot of young people who look up and see me doing things that are positive, like having my own clothing line. Hopefully they can look at me and think, that’s
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someone I could be like. My advice to them would be make sure they’re doing what they’re supposed to be doing and to never do anything half heartedly. What can we expect from your second solo album, Catch 22? There are a lot of different exciting sounds I’ve been working with, including FrankMusik, Fraser T Smith who produced my current single Number 1, Take Me Back and Stryderman, plus I’ve been working with Ruff Sqwad. I’m experim enting all the time but I think I’ve found my own sound because it’s like when you hear a beat you know that this is Tinchy’s track. How do you think you have changed and developed as an artist from the days of Guns & Roses, the album you made with Ruff Sqwad? I think I’ve matured as a person and as an artist because as you grow up you experience more things. Before I was in Bow so I would be talking about what’s going on there, but now I’m more aware of things that are going on. Musically, I appreciate a lot more and I’m just trying to compete with a lot of big music artists out there so it’s on a whole different scale. I hear you’re still at university what do you study? I reached a stage in my life where I felt like I had a lot of free days where I wasn’t doing anything, so I decided to go uni and then everything went so fast. By the time I was in my final year, everything was peak in the music game. That was another catch 22 because I was thinking, ‘Am I stopping, am I changing? Which one am I going to focus on?’ What was your reaction when Number 1 topped the charts? I felt like slapping myself and saying, ‘Wake up… Is this real, are you dreaming?’ It happened
YR R “I think educations important so try and stay in education as long as you can.”
while I was on tour with N-Dubz so it all came at the perfect time. And then it finally sunk it was like, ‘Wow! I’m top of the UK charts!’ which was something I thought I could only imagine. Both yourself and Chipmunk came from grime backgrounds but are now making much more mainstream music. Would you say that grime has a future, or is mainstream music the only way to make mainstream money? That’s a difficult one. I naturally started making different kind of music because I’m in Ruff Sqwad and we’ve always been different in grime anyway, we already had a different sound. But there are a lot of artists who feel they have to change what they’re doing to get where they want to be and sometimes that’s the reality of it, because hard grime music doesn’t appeal to the masses. It depends where you’re trying to go in music, so if you have the ability to make more types of music then I say good music is good music. Do you think the music that you make now still appeals to the grime audience you had before? Do you know what? If I were to be honest, of the people that liked me from before, a lot still follow and think but others like a certain type of grime and they only like that, so as soon as you make something one inch away from that model they’re not interested anymore. I think that keeps some MCs and artists trapped because they try to please a certain crowd of fans even though they should be thinking much more broadly than that. They need to understand that people will like you for making good music. Do you think UK grime artists will ever be challenging US artists? The US has 52 states and it’s mad compared to the UK
because an artist can sell in just one state and sell more than we can here. To me their music is sounding like it’s turning to more of a European sound, but it’s all love because I like what they’re doing. What is your opinion of the genre that is emerging with skanks such as the Migraine Skank and Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes? Well I like dancing and when I’m in my car I listen to them kind of songs so I can’t tell you I don’t like them. Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes - I like that song because when I first watched the video, I thought, ‘this boy can skank!’ And Migraine Skank… I know Gracious K so to hear him with a tune that’s just smashing it up the way it is makes me so happy for him. What would a day in the life of Tinchy Stryder include? In my spare time I play a lot of pro evolution, I play football, I just chill with my bredrins and go out with a close friend and just keep it discreet and do what we gotta do. When I got a day off I’m not the kind of person that likes to do too much, I’m not one of those people that just loves going raving I’m quite humble. If you could collaborate with any artist past or present, dead or alive who would it be? As a child I loved Michael Jackson so if I could collaborate with anyone it would have to be him. I grew up watching a lot of Jackson 5 videos and trying to dance like him so when you’ve tried to dance like someone and they try offer do a song with you and you turn them down you’re off your head.
This interview took place before Michael Jackson passed. Tinchy Stryder’s new album Catch 22 is available in all good record shops now. Text by Drew Mark Photography by Kiran Nijjar
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London has always been home to a variety of alternative and prominent subcultures with young people at the forefront. For our Alternative Issue, we take you on a whistle stop tour of just a few of the many ‘Alternative Subcultures’ that span the last fifty years. Text by Shona Harvey Illustrations by Niki Pilkington
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1. Teddy boys 1950s
2. Hippies 1960s
3. Mods 1960s
4. Skinheads late 60s/70s
5. Casuals late 1970s/80s
6. Cyber Goths 1980s
7. New Romantics 1980s
The Teddy Boy subculture initially surfaced in London in the 1950s and it didn’t take long for the rest of the country to become familiar with the movement. Teddy Boys were identified by their smart dress sense and their less smart xenophobic viewpoints and aggressive nature. They were involved in violent clashes with rival subcultures like the Mods and perhaps most infamously during the Notting Hill riots in 1958 when the areas where the African Caribbean community lived came under attack.
Everyone’s heard of ‘the Summer of Love’, right? Well this refers to the year of 1967, when the Hippie movement was thriving and thousands of people rallied together in San Francisco to encourage counter-culture and political rebellion. Hippies first appeared in the US during the 60s and soon spread worldwide. They believed in sexual liberation and drugs and listened to psychedelic rock and folk music. Your typical Hippies liked to dress in bell-bottom jeans, peasant blouses and halter neck tops, and peace signs and flowers were entirely essential.
Mods loved Ben Sherman checked shirts, tailor made suits, American soul music and Italian scooters. They glorified leisure and money and were often criticised for being vain, effeminate and stuck up. The Mods first appeared in London in the 1950s but became more popular during the 60s. They are remembered for their tumultuous rivalry with the Rockers, and the seaside riots between the two groups that took place in 1964. This conflict was so influential that it resulted in an academic study by sociologist Stanley Cohen entitled Folk Devils and Moral Panics.
After the decline of the Mods in the late 60s, the Skinheads arrived with their Dr Marten boots, Sta-Prest slacks, Ben Sherman polo shirts, braces and of course, their shaved heads! The Skinheads were strongly influenced by Jamaican ‘rude boys’, and enjoyed listening to the sounds of Ska, Rocksteady and early reggae music. Although the movement was originally non-political, the result of immigration and economic problems in the 70s began to cause tension across the country and the subculture was consequently adopted by openly neo-Nazi groups.
This football fashion subculture is widely believed to have originated in the late 1970s, when Liverpool fans travelled to Europe and discovered new labels that were not commonly obtainable back home. The movement really began to peak during the 80s and the Casuals subculture is strongly believed to be one of the biggest working class youth cults ever. The idea is that Casuals avoided donning club colours and began to dress in designer names like Burberry, Stone Island and Fred Perry to avoid the attention of the police.
Cyber Goths made themselves known in the UK towards the end of the 80s, showing a love of technology and trance and techno music. A Cyber Goth can be spotted by their heavily futuristic fashion sense – think big black boots with tall platforms, goggles, gas masks, neon colours, PVC and hair extensions. Male and female Cyber Goths dress very similarly, which explains the subculture’s association with androgyny.
The early 80s in the UK saw the emergence of New Romanticism, which was seen as an antidote to the raucous Punk movement. New Romantics were selfconscious and glamorously and theatrically dressed, and listened to bands like Ultravox, Spandau Ballet, Adam and the Ants and David Bowie. They celebrated midweek clubbing and London venues like Billy’s and the Blitz became the hotspots for these androgynous and hedonistic party animals.
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Is Alice Dellal really punk? Is VV Brown’s hair the most rockabilly thing about her?
In the 21st Century Do they still exist? Today in 2009, 6o years after the teenage subculture was born, it seems that anything that is seen as different or alternative in youth culture no longer has that much shock factor. Young people today wear styles from past subcultures for fashion but lack the passion that drove their predecessors to rebel. Do subcultures still exist? In the fifties, Teddy Boys were seen as a shocking new phenomenon often noted as ‘the hoodies’ of their day, in the sixties it was the hippies with their anti-government and pro-drugs stance that stunned the nation. In the 70s, 80s and 90s Punks, Hip Hop heads and Ravers smashed social conventions with their safety pins, chunky gold, and neon-whistles respectively. Each era saw the ‘teenager’ build on the Teddy Boy phenomena as relative postwar affluence made young people able to distinguish themselves clearly from their parents for the first time. Their look established them as a subculture as they countered the mainstream. Elements of this can still be seen today, walk through Hackney Road or Brick Lane vintage shops such as, Beyond Retro, display the prominence of Rockabilly culture. The new generation has come to represent the entire era’s style trends, with the new wave blending old
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school Hip-hop hallmarks like chains and flat-top haircuts with a floppier mop. The look is distinctive but it can be argued that the aesthetic seems to be all there is. Artists such as VV Brown show the commercialization of Rockabilly style, but sadly isn’t that the inevitable fate of all subcultures? During the 1960’s political unrest was rife The Vietnam War and calls for nuclear disarmament set the climate that produced the tie-dye loving, marijuana smoking hippies. They were influenced by Bohemianism and Eastern philosophy. Hippies represented non-conformist bashing the rules of society; their mantra was ‘make love, not war’. The Beatles, Bob Dylan and Jimi Hendrix are closely associated with the movement. Aspects of the hippie can still be seen today, societies more liberal sexual attitudes, and environmental awareness shows this. Gucci’s 2008 A/W look captured the free for all spirit of the Hippie. Equally the winter of discontent in the 1970s set the tone for the formation of the Punk subculture in London. Vivien Westwood’s shop –Sex showed the popularity of the genre. The Sex Pistols were the musical advocates for anarchy. In 2009 model/socialite Alice Dellal according to some, epitomises the revitalization of Punk. Her hair half shaven, constantly leather clad, ‘non-
chalantly’ ripped tights; all seem to represent the revival and the demise of Punk. The political Public Enemy and revolutionary NWA were pioneers of Hip Hop. Verbalising their anger about the oppression they experienced. Chunky Gold chains, RUN DMC style toe-cap Adidas was the attire of a Hip-hop head. But Hip-hop as we know it today no longer seems to have a substantial message; it seems to be all ‘tap that ass’ cash money ‘hoes’. It’s an enterprise. Commercially Hip-hop’s downfall was shown by Nas calling his 2006 album ‘Hip hop is dead’. But there is a glimmer of hope with the likes of Talib Kwali and Rakim representing the sliver of integrity Hip-hop has left. The Cut spoke to Ted Polhemus, anthropologist and author of Streetstyle, he sheds his view on Subculture in 2009. He believes that young people wear the look of past subcultures superficially sold to them by global marketing companies; “There are all sorts of marketing people and ‘cool hunters’ going around playing spot the new ‘tribe’. But I am very suspicious. For me the only answer to this is to ask the person in question, ‘Are you a goth/emo/chav?’ Usually these days you find the answer is ‘No, I’m an individual’. At least in the UK and the USA where most streetstyle of the past
started. But subcultures may be alive and well in places like Mexico or Argentina” But to what extent do you think subculture is about rebellion? “For my generation - the baby boomers - rebellion was easy. My parents were conventional in their style, conservative, deeply religious, easy to rebel against. I had some students recently who said that their parents had been punks, how do you rebel against that? Many subcultures in the past were about rebellion, yes. But they were also about conforming to your own group. I suspect that in our present time of extreme individuality that the conforming demanded of subcultures is no longer acceptable”. So what does ‘alternative style’ mean in 2009, and is there still such a thing as the alter-
native? If so how does it differ from what it meant 50 years ago? Polhemus believes that today there is no norm from which to form an alternative. “In, say 1947 or, say, 1964 one could identify the look: Dior’s ‘New Look’ and, in ‘64, Quant’s mini. Fashion journalists still pretend that they can go to Paris and spot the ‘next big thing’ but the truth is that there will never again be a ‘next big thing’. All these different, conflicting developments will not come from Paris or any other one location. Today and into the future style comes from and goes to everywhere”. As Polhemus says, it seems factual to say that there is no longer one culture to conform to or rebel against. This, coupled with the fact that individualism aptly describes
youth culture today, would imply that there are no longer any real subcultures anymore. If you go into any high-street store you can see clothes that have elements of the previous subcultures mentioned above, so perhaps its is true that everything that was once seen as alternative or quirky has now just been commercialised and is mainstream? What do you think? Is this view too cynical? Do you belong to a subculture that has not fallen victim to commercialisation and is thriving at the fringes of society? info@thecutnewspaper.com Read more from Ted Polhemus http://tedpolhemusmygeneration.blogspot.com/ Text by Dami Abajingin
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YOUNG LONDONERS Ever feel like it’s same ol’ souless blah blah blah on the radio time and time again just under a different name? If you’re tearing your hair out wondering where all that original, musical talent is hiding out, or even if you’re just looking for something a bit more deep, The Cut is on a mission to champion the best alternative artists out there. Vocal Siblinz are the awardwinning sound of south london. The atmosphere F-Jay and Korey create in their music is
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truly emotional. ‘Swagger Like Us’ has a killer melody on it. Poetic Pilgrimage are also a pair of best friends, Sukina and Muneera. We were startled by the intellectual power of what they had to say and their highly positive message as muslim female rappers. It’s not everyday that women can forge their way in hop hop with such integrity, and these two have already toured America. Adaggio is a street violinist and we can’t even think of another artist combining the genres of classical and urban
with such musicality and swagger. You’ve heard him on the Adulthood soundtrack, and backing The Game and Estelle, now prepare to find out more about life on the strings.
-----------------------------Interviews by Ronnie Grebenyuk and Damian Malontie
------------------------------
-----------------------------VOCAL SIBLINGZ -----------------------------Vocal Siblinz got together in 2006 when they realised they shared the same passion. Having grown up in negative environments in South East London, the main message in F-Jay and Korey’s music is against youth violence. In 2008 Vocal Siblinz won the Origin8 competition run by Youth Music and from that had the chance to perform at one of the UKs biggest dance festival, Creamfields.
How did Vocal Siblinz start? We started in 2006: we were friends who lived on the same road. Which three words best describes your music? Different, meaningful and live. What was it like playing Creamfields? It was a wonderful experience because we hadn’t really performed in front of so many people before. If we had the chance to do it again we definitely would. Winning Origin8 was a big boost because, as young guys,
everywere you look the doors are shut because of our age or people not knowing who we are. Youth Music pushed us through. What plans do you have for the rest of the year, give us some exclusives? I’ [F-Jay] got a new song out called Dance All Night that’s doing really well, we’re doing a video for it now. It’s in the top of the charts in the radio stations in North Carolina and being played in parties up in Luton as well. Also working on a mixtape, so this is the year for me.
Do you think alternative sound is dead? The UK scene is starting to build up now. Everyone tries to get into different areas but they end up coming back to the same place. This is just the beginning and I think eventually different things will happen.
-----------------------------www.myspace.com/fjaymusic Photography by Jennifer Payne McDonald and Delia Johnson
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-----------------------------POETIC Pilgrimage -----------------------------Sukina Abdul Noor and Muneera Rashid are Poetic Pilgrimage, a British Muslim hip hop duo. Both are Afro-Caribbeans who converted to Islam in 2005. You have an EP out called Freedom Times... The EP is about a year and a half old now. You have influences of Reggae, but some of the straights are just straight UK hip hop. Others are spoken 30 THE CUT
word. It’s almost an audio advert for what we are. We are going to be recording our actual album in California. Religion seems to be a key part of your music? We are not like a gospel group, every artist has their own perspective on their music. Where Kanye West may say God we will say Allah. We believe to start everything in the name of God. It’s not like we are trying to pull out the Muslim message, we are just trying to pull out a message from our perspective.
What made you want to get into music? We felt that there was a lack of positive women, especially in hip hop. When we were late teens, we felt there wasn’t any music out there that reflected us, so we decided we wanted to write about what was on our minds. If your voice was to disappear tomorrow, who would you love to do your last song with? It would have to be K’naan - he’s a Somali rapper from Canada. On the beats it would be The Roots.
You’ve just come back from a tour in America - what was that like? A lot of people in the UK don’t get the chance to go to America to perform, so we were really blessed. Is image important to you as an artist? Yes, it is very important to us. We want people to look at us and think colourful, creative and freedom. -----------------------------www.myspace.com/poeticpilgrimage Photography by Worsan Nur
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-----------------------------ADDAGIO -----------------------------The street violinist from Hackney known as Adaggio has worked with many talented artists such as Estelle and The Game and performs in venues where typical violinists wouldn’t even go. Adaggio sounds like a cool and interesting name… It’s from a classical term which means smooth and flowing but I’ve added an extra G to make it my own.
When did you first pick up the violin? I was the only child - I was hyper, I was troubled - so my mum just wanted to get me into something. I was about seven years old they were offering free lessons in my school. Do you have any other skills that you would like to share? I’m a producer and I also compose music. In the end I want to get into making movie music. I’ve already done some, but it hasn’t been my music, just my violins on
somebody else’s track, like in Adulthood. I’m also doing music for a massive new film that’s coming out soon. You are one of very few street violinists out there… Because it’s so different some people stand back at first, but once they see me doing my thing it’s alright. I’m a free spirit and I’m just trying to make it completely different. I’ve stepped into places were other violinists wouldn’t, so I think I’m breaking the mould in all types of ways and not
just being this mixed raced boy who plays the violin. Many young people think classical music can be boring, what would you say to them? I’m making it not boring. I understand when young kids say classical music is boring but I’m an innovator.
-----------------------------www.myspace.com/adaggio1 Photography by Patrick Owolabi and Jemil Saka
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challenging homophobia
H
omosexuality was legalised in the UK in 1967 and today the UK’s lesbian, gay and bisexual (LGB) community is estimated to number over three and a half million people. However, a large number of LGB people, including many young people, still face discrimination at every level of society. Last year, equality charity Stonewall carried out a poll which revealed that two-thirds of lesbian and gay people under the age of 19 were bullied at school because of their sexuality. The Cut wanted to find out to what extent homophobia is prevalent amongst young people today and what solutions are there to minimise the prejudice that LGB’s youth are subjected to on a daily basis. Our first step was to talk with awardwinning comedian Stephen K Amos. In his groundbreaking television documentary, Batty Man, Amos explored the attitude of young people in the UK with regard to lesbian and gay sexuality. Despite the worrying statistics Amos feels that homophobia is no more prevalent today than it was when he was growing up; “Every generation is different, and every previous generation is going to say things like, ‘Oh it was better in my day…’, so I think that even though homosexuality is more visible now, I
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don’t think that the level of homophobia is that much different than in the past. There’s always going to be people who have negative thoughts and waste their time having hatred for other people.” He also felt sorrow for the young people who expressed violently homophobic views in his programme. “I felt quite sad for them but then of course you know something can be said about the bravado… I was with a lot of young people who were with their friends so a lot of it was ‘big talk’ if you like. If you sit there and think about it logically, if your brother of say, 10, 15 or 20 years said to you, ‘I’m gay,’ are you going to disown him, really? During the making of that programme I met people who were leading double lives, even though they’re going out with a girl and they’ve got three kids.’
sufficient role models in their life that are both male and female, and make sure they know it’s not disgusting and it’s not wrong to be gay. When I made this programme, I spoke to many high profile people who all refused to take part in the show because it might have a negative impact on their careers. How bad is that?
Despite the negative reactions from the young people he spoke to in Batty Man, Amos received a promising amount of positive feedback from viewers of all different backgrounds: “I had a lot of emails from people who thanked me because they thought they were the only ones, from black and white people. I’ve had so many people that have said it meant a lot to them that they were given a voice. All I wanted to do was make a piece of work that was open, that was a bit transparent. I spoke to a few people that had their own personal experiences that they were willing to share, and if that means somebody else has an easier time, then great!”
Lukasz is a project manager for the LGBT youth project Mosaic in west London and he believes that homophobia is increasingly prevalent amongst young people; “I teach in schools so I hear children justify their use of the word ‘gay’ in a derogatory form by saying it’s much more accepted amongst young people than it is amongst adults. Adults are more conscious of the law and they are aware that they are not supposed to do certain things, whereas young people are not. I just think there is a lack of knowledge at the basis of homophobia which comes from stereotypes, presumptions and people not knowing any better. That’s why I go to school sometimes to teach so that people will understand more and maybe be less homophobic”.
When it comes to tackling negative perceptions amongst some young people Amos is adamant that the action has to start at home. “When you have kids, you should guide them, make sure they have
“We also spoke to young people who thought it was a choice to be gay. It’s so easy to hide and to not think about things that don’t happen to you or that don’t affect you, but the thought of somebody that lives in a little village in the north of England and chooses to be gay and goes through that torment and torture, it just doesn’t make any sense. It’s easier to be heterosexual and have 15 children and live it up, right?”
He also believes that to end discrimination, homosexuality
and sexuality as a whole should become more openly discussed. ‘Young people know that if someone is afraid to talk about the subject they are then going to pick up on it and use it as a tool for either attention or to hurt someone. The PHSE lessons in schools are supposed to address these subjects but unfortunately schools fail. Schools also fail to record homophobic bullying ‘unlike racist bullying, for example, using the ‘N’ word is not allowed - when it comes to homosexuality offending people isn’t as socially unacceptable. It is more acceptable to call someone a ‘batty boy’ for instance than call someone the ‘N’ word. The staff at schools have to stand up and say ‘this is not acceptable’, and then it is going to change.’ The coming months are going to be busy for Stephen K Amos. He starts a national tour in September which includes a stint at the Edinburgh Festival, is hoping to work on a sitcom for BBC2 is writing a new show called the Feel Good Factor and a play called the School of Scandal. Watch this space!
“People are more open about it so that it’s more of an issue and because it’s in the media and news more.” Ryan, 17 “I think girls are alright with it, more so than boys, and especially young girls. It doesn’t bother me, it’s nothing. If you’re gay, you’re gay, it doesn’t matter.” Rachel, 20 “Homosexuality is not normal. It’s against every religion. I have this perception that the whole world can’t be gay, because if that was to happen, there’d be no babies, you get me…” Kyle, 18
“People who are homosexual don’t usually come out until they’re like 19 or something.” Danl, 21 “I’m not really fussed about it. I don’t think it’s a choice, it’s just something that’s in you already. There’s a lot of men that are married but they’re actually gay.” Safi, 25
Text by Shona Harvey Photography by Kiran Nijjar, Akwasi Tawia Poku
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Previous page Anissa wears shorts by New Look; shirt by Sam Greenberg Vintage; shoes by Primark; rings by Freedom at Topshop earrings by Freedom at Topshop.
This page from left Sam wears yellow skirt by Sam Greenberg Vintage; shirt by Sam Greenberg Vintage; shoes by Primark; necklace by Freedom at Topshop. Anissa wears pink jeans by Uniqlo; top by New Look; shoes by New Look; earrings by Freedom at Topshop. Opposite page from left Sam wears jeans shorts stylists own; shirt by Sam Greenberg Vintage; shoes by Converse at Size?; hair flower stylists own. Jan wears jeans by F&M; shirt by New Look Mens; trainers by Nike at Size?
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This page Jan wears jeans shorts by Levi Vintage; t shirt by Lyle And Scott; hat: New Look Men’s; trainers by Adidas at Size?. Sam wears jumpsuit by Uniqlo; jumper by Uniqlo; jacket by Primark; shoes by Primark. Sam wears dress by Primark; socks by stylists own; shoes by New Look; jumper by Lacoste; ring by Freedom at Topshop.
Photography by Jemil Saka Styling by Chloe Forde and Jenny Barnes Make up by Hannah and Natalie at CBMA
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The TRENDSPOTTER
The TRENDSPOTTER
COLOUR BLOCKING
DENIM Denim morphs from jeans to something more – look out for dresses, shirts and bags as denim takes on new forms this season. Forever blue, make it tight, short, lightwashed, stonewashed and ripped for its fresh faze in fashion.
For a pulled – together look, hit the street in bold blocks of colour. Match your shades if you’re the shy subtle type or clash brights if you want to catch eyes. For a fresh take, reach for pastels.
Get the look Sunglasses £15; Denim shirt with embroidery £32, both Topshop; KEEP Homer Ray Potes shoe £49 www.keepcompany.com
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Get the look TV Ring by Rockcakes £260 www.rockcakes.com; T shirt £30, gasius. com; Shorts £9.99, Uniqlo; KEEP Ramos shoe £49 www.keepcompany.com
Text and styling by Jenny Barnes Photography by Jemil Saka and Rachel Mann
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“Highlights included Lisa Hofmann’s show which was inspired by Germanarchitect Bauhaus.”
fashion alternative fashion week
fashion the devoted the last of the artists
“I don’t send t-shirts to music labels or anything like that, if someone wants to wear one they can buy one, or just ask me.”
its sleeve. The clothes were beautifully detailed with sequins, beads and buttons and the combination of cut and embellishment made for some standout pieces, including beaded capes and a pair of leggings coated in mother-of-pearl buttons. Completing the top three was Teija Vartiainen from Finland bringing us a slice of her homeland. As her models moved down the catwalk in structured clothes which seemed to completely reshape their bodies, all in shades of ice blue and white, they brought to mind glaciers gliding through channels of water. Lisa Williams also produced a brilliant collection of underwear. Entitled ‘Playful Promises: Shanghai Boudoir’, and featuring latex stockings alongside the usual silk and lace, worn by models styled as geishas, it looked like the kind of the thing that Gwen Stefani’s Japanese-girl entourage would wear in the bedroom.
Alternative Fashion Week took place in Spitalfields earlier this summer. Of course it couldn’t be missed for our alternative issue. The Cut attended midweek and played witness to a mixed bag: some stunning collections that really impressed and some that really didn’t. The highlights included Lisa Hofmann’s show which was
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inspired by German architect Bauhaus. This featured a contrast of strong, definite shapes with fluid movement, as all the clothes were crafted from silk. Her colour mix was unexpected but a welcome surprise: mint green next to orange, chocolate with silver. Jewellery featured prominently as well, with necklaces made of spoons
and forks, which was unusual but good looking. Altogether this was a striking collection. Lisa’s main contender for ‘best in show’ came from Najlaa Jabri whose work was like a clash between John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. Corsetry and bustles featured heavily as the collection wore its 17th century influences on
Unfortunately, it wasn’t all fashion-forward new looks and top class production. Some designers missed the mark, crafting cartoonish, mismatched clothes from old garments found in skips in order to make a point about environmentalism. Others were based on some plain old bad ideas that left the audience feeling sorry for the models. One collection was even modeled by elderly men… whatever next?
www.alternativearts.co.uk Text by Jenny Barnes Photography by Kiran Nijjar
Getting a sense of what new t-shirt brand ‘The Devoted’ is about is almost like delving into the realms of intellectual hip hop. The Cut met Will Farrow, the man behind it all, who told us more about what fuels the brand and the importance of retaining ‘artistic integrity’ in today’s creative climate. So who’s behind this design apparel genius and how, when and where did you all come together? Well it’s mainly just me that exists as a staple and Neil Bedford does the photography, As he’s grown in popularity his photography has become highly regarded, it just made sense. My girlfriend Ixera Phoenix helps a lot with the design too. Is music a big driving force for you? And is the urban scene the arena that you feel best fits your apparel? Music is relevant but it’s completely
irrelevant. One of the guys who modelled for us is in a serious hardcore grunge band, I don’t like the music at all but I like him. I listen to different types of music every day. A lot just happens with urban attention because we’re making T-shirts. For me personally they’re not about something they’re just a lad magazine, I can’t say it’s wrong it’s just not to my taste. Tell us a bit about getting the brand out there and branching out to Mexico? I used to work in Hideout so now they sell my stuff, and the guy from the shop in Mexico kept emailing me! I’ve been talking to some other shops as well, but I’m not really keen on just anybody selling it, It’s not really to do with numbers, I’d rather have shops that I like that would sell it right and sell it with other brands that it compliments. Your collaboration with your photographer Neil Bedford is particularly celebrated.
Do you think it’s fair to say that the rise of U.K. urban designers is becoming more noticeable with this couture take on presenting your work? He’s well received and we tried to have more of a documentary based look book. I’ve just got the sort of mind set in that if I wanna do something then I’m gonna do it right. Recently you guys were at the Reset with other likeminded designers. What are the highlights or what new stuff can we look forward to you blowing our craniums with? The next line I’m thinking is engravings. I’ve been looking at a lot old shot guns, all engraved really elaborately. It’s the nature of the drawing, the craft of gun making that goes into it. It won’t really have direct reference to guns because you have to be responsible with these things. The pinnacle of popularity for brands can be seen when
people in the spotlight start showing appreciation for the brand. Who would you most like to see wearing your garms? I’ve changed my mind on that one as a lot of people I like don’t wear T-shirts I wouldn’t want them to change their style to wear my stuff because then I wouldn’t like them any more. Like I really like J Tildman, but it just wouldn’t make sense if he wore one. Lee Scratch Perry would look good! I like characters and don’t want some rapper wearing a t-shirt for the sake of it. I don’t send t-shirts to music labels or anything like that, if someone wants to wear one they can buy one, or just ask me
www.thedevoted.co.uk Text by Bwalya Newton Photography by Neil Bedford
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1/ Head, Shoul ders, Knees & Toes 2/ Tribal Skank THE SECRET TO
3/ Jungle Skank 4/ Migraine Skank
With London’s underground urban scene going Skank crazy of late, The Cut team kept it funky. We explored the effects of a hangover with ‘Migraine Skank’, going back to our roots with the ‘Tribal Skank’ and keeping it simple with the self explanatory adapted nursery rhyme ‘Heads, Shoulders, Knees and Toes’. With these songs creating their own genre and taking the raves
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by storm in 2009, we chose our favourite plus less known tracks, skanks for the summer which should all definitely be practiced before raving. Skanks that didnt make The Cut Ring a Ring O Roses Skank. If you know your history, and you understand the rhyme, you’ll know it’s the Plague Skank innit? This nursery rhyme is all the Plague in 17th century
England. The modern day version of the Ring a Ring O Roses Skank has got to be the Swine Flu Skank. You won’t catch anyone doing this in a rave, it’s a bit too close to the bone right now.
Christopher Tee; Leggings by Primark;
This page Tania wears Staple Design
Text by Drew Mark
Tee; Denim look leggings by Topshop
Photography by Jennifer Payne
Reebok Reverse Jam Easter
McDonald and Delia Johnson
Pack; Carhartt Oxford Cap
Styling by Jenny Barnes
Iaisha wears Staple Design Highlighter
and Shona Harvey
Nike Dunk Destroyer Hi Supreme All clothes available from Size? Skanks performed by Tania Nwachukwu and Iaisha Allen of The Dark Elite/Tabot Mix Dance Group
1. Thought of as the skank which spawned the skank craze, we have K.I.G to thank for this one. You don’t even need a Youtube tutorial on this one cos it’s like your five year old birthday party all over again. And the moves are gonna come back all natural, just watch.
2. Created by FR3E, the instructional guidelines are a little more complicated for this one, although it starts off a little like the aerobics exercise ‘The Grapevine’ The official music video features a geeky Mr Muscle-esque character trying to get down in Tribal Gear.
3. The Jungle Skank was originated by JP (Joel Produces) and The Generals Entertainment. The best part of this skank is undoubtedly the bit when you switch up and pose like a scary animal. You may need to watch it a few times to get the moves on this one.
4. Originated by Gracious ‘Nappa Man’ K, it’s got to be the easiest of the Skanks even your gran can do this one. Put two hands on your head and Skank! Earlier this year Gracious K taught Ciara how to do it live on 1 Xtra so it’s going to blow up Stateside soon.
Tania wears T Shirt by Trainer Spotter; Wet look leggings by Pili&Mili
Iaisha wears size? All Over Tee; Black leggings by Primark
Tania wears Nike AD x ACG Sechura Jacket; Wet look Leggings by Pili&Mili; Nike Dunk High Supreme; New Era Tonal 59FIFTY Cap
Iaisha wears Trainerspotter Felix Bomb Tee; Black leggings by Primark
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music
Music
ZARIF
Davinche
“Obviously my goal is the top, so now I’m just setting about planning my route.”
The Cut met up with the man behind the beats, Davinche, creator of old school grime track Ps & Qs and the more recent Rider to find out what he has up his sleeve for the rest of 2009. What’s your favourite tune made on the Rider beat? My favourite would have to be Riding for Love. It’s got a nice balance of spitting and singing.
“The Chris Brown tour was amazing, probably the biggest audience I’ve ever played to…” Zarif has already toured with Beyonce and Chris Brown, done a duet with John Legend, has had her song ‘Box of Secrets’ featured in an advert for Sky, as well as performing for many festivals this summer and she’s only 23. The Cut spoke to her to find out more about the inspiration for her soulful and summery sounds. Can you describe your typical day? I would either be involved with the band rehearsing or in the studio writing more songs. I’ve also just started doing a UK tour, so it would be one of those three things . What would you be doing if you weren’t singing? I have never really imagined doing anything else, but something
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I always wanted to do when I was younger is to be a fashion designer. Obviously every singer under the sun has a fashion label and all that but its something I’ve always been interested in. Who would you like to collaborate with? Oh, I’d have to say Prince. I do love Prince. You’ve toured with Chris Brown and done a duet with John Legend. How was that for you? The Chris Brown tour was amazing, probably the biggest audience I’ve ever played to because it was an arena tour. It was so very overwhelming and exciting, it was really, really cool. As for the John Legend duet, it was probably the highlight of last year for me. You’ll be touring with Beyonce soon - are you excited? I’m so excited - I had already bought the tickets to watch the show anyway so it’s just really funny now that I’m going to be
doing a show there. It doesn’t get much better then that. Your album is due in spring. What can we expect from it? It’s going to be quite an eclectic album. I’ve got a lot of influences: I first got listening to a lot of pop, then rock, soul and hip hop, so there’s a little bit of everything in there, blues and funk as well. It’s a very summery album. Classic song writing really, that’s my main emphasis. What are your goals for this year? One is my album which is released this year. I hope it goes well. Also to do as much touring as possible and to really get my music out there. I’m just really looking forward to seeing everyone’s reaction. What do your parents think of your music? At first I think they thought it was just some crazy phase I was going through but they are really supportive and into it. It’s really cool, they’re very excited for me.
Where would you say you get your colourful and funky fashion sense from? I’ve always been interested in just everything colourful, trying out new things… I didn’t want to look like anyone else. When I was growing up it was all about going to charity shops and finding interesting pieces of clothing from my mum’s wardrobe and making those my own. What advice do you have for young female artists? Write songs and work with as many different people as possible. Don’t be scared to actually get out there and do it. I think a lot of people do stuff in their own houses and then they’re scared to make it out there but you just got to go out there and do it.
www.zarif.co.uk Text by Ronnie Grebenyuk Photography courtesy of the artist
Why did you decide to call yourself Davinche? Leonardo Da Vinci was an artist but also an inventor, a mathematician, a scientist. On top of that he was also a musician - he was very deep. When I looked at it I thought I want to call myself after someone who expresses themselves through an art form and Davinche was a name I really liked. I also felt his mindset was similar to mine: he had many interests in life but art was the one he focused on the most. I also have many interests in life but music is the one I focus on the most. You are a classically trained pianist and guitarist: how did you get into it? I did most of it in school. I just used to take music pretty seriously. I did after school lessons and stuff like that. I hear you’re interested in Neuro-Linguistic Programming (NLP)? People who have taken the time to be really good at something have been through loads of problems. They’ve made loads of mistakes and have decided on a path which works for them. If you can get that formula, which is called eliciting that strategy, then you can forget all the mistakes and get straight to the good part. It’s basically learning from the mistakes of others. There are loads of books about it. I
read a lot of self-motivation books and I would suggest a book called Unlimited Power by Anthony Robbins Do you find that people don’t expect you to be as intelligent as you are because of the genre you represent? It’s funny because grime was given that name by the media. I remember really early on in the scene, we decided to not give it a name and the media started calling it ‘grime’ which is kind of derogatory really. Everyone still thinks that it’s only ignorant youths with hoods on that make the music. Are you feeling any producers right now? If we’re talking old school I would say Teddy Riley and definitely people like Timbo (Timbaland) and the Neptunes. Polo Da Don is killing it right now, can’t touch Just Blaze either - he’s on fire.
What is your ultimate goal as a producer? My goal has always been to be as big if not bigger than Timbaland, Pharell and everyone. Obviously my goal is the top, so now I’m just setting about planning my route. Some people can’t comprehend that but I think anything is realistic if you work hard enough and I work hard.
You have a solo project coming out - what can we expect from it? It should be out by September and it will have everything from soft, soulful tracks to grime and very hard-hitting beats, but I’ve put it together in a way that it works. Clea, Henrietta Bond, Chipmunk and Kano are on there, there’s a good mix.
If you could have any artist vocal a Davinche beat who would it be? I would like Janet Jackson or Monica in the 80s and 90s and Biggie - that would be a nice little collaboration. Monica’s music has always touched the girls, any time she sings a song girls want to sing along. Janet because she had those dance moves on lock and, if you look at artists like Ciara and Aaliyah, that’s where they got their stage show ideas from. Biggie just kept it real.
What advice would you give to up and coming producers? Study your craft and perfect your grind, because if you’re perfect at what you’re doing, the right artist will want to come and work with you. Just put the CD in and watch them be blown away - and if your CD isn’t doing that, be real with yourself.
Text by Drew Mark Photography by Jemil Saka, Kiran Nijjar and Akwasi Tawia Poku
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music “London is beautiful. The people are beautiful and so open minded to new and growing talent.”
MELO X
Melo X is practically a one man band. From rapping, dj-ing, party promotion and record engineering he does it all. Now his digitally released mixtape, ‘Mustafa’s Renaissance’ is receiving international love, Melo’s touched down in London to perform, for one night only, at the one and only Cargo. I had an exclusive chat with Melo to get to know the man behind the sweatbands. So, why do they call you MeLo X? I’m a mellow kinda guy. I like to go out and eat alone at restaurants. I like to chill a lot and sleep. But on the other hand I have that extreme side or X factor when it comes to performing my music and DJ-ing. So the name describes both sides of me. So a lot of people know you as a DJ? How are they taking the transformation from DJ to Rapper? Well the transformation was really from Rapper to DJ but I just began
to blow up like crazy as a DJ. Now I’m reintroducing the rapper side of me and people love it. I get a majority of love and support from people who listen to my music. ‘Treat Her Right’, thats my shi*t. There’s a sample in there? Yeah the sample is from Slum Village’s ‘Look of love’. I bought a CD online of a slum village mix and that song was on there. It stayed on repeat for months. It was a true story so I pulled from my real feeling and experiences. ‘I Dont Rap’, is that song focused to anyone in particular? A lot of different people who knew me as a rapper first, were saying I didn’t rap anymore. It was a joke but I took that idea and made it into this crazy return of MeLo X song. My life experiences influence every part of my music. That’s why I don’t release music every week like other artists. I’m
not that good yet [haha]. I draw from everyday life and people around me. I also like embracing different cultures Is there an album on the way? Right now I am working on an up tempo R&B dance album. It will be for free download and will be produced by me. I will not have my voice on it I’m simply producing and putting it together with different talented singers. Then next year I will release my first official independent album for sale on my label Galax. So you guys may not hear any new music from me until next year. Can we expect any cool collaborations? As of now there are no collabs for my album next year. I might just keep it all me so it can be a solid statement of my talents musically. What’s your relationship with London like? London is beautiful. The people are
beautiful and so open minded to new and growing talent. It’s the best feeling when people from another country embrace your music and London has given me that feeling. Complete my sentence. When I was a teenager I once... Fell in love.
poppy and jezebels
Your top three hip hop heroes of today are? Mos Def, Jay Electronica and Drake. Do you spin your own songs in the club? It’s ok, you can own up to this one! I actually never used to and people got mad at me for that but I am a real DJ and I know that if I play my music to certain crowds it won’t hit as hard as others. I’m all about rocking a party crazy so if my shit doesn’t work I won’t play it but if it does then I will. I see you got Lindsay Lohan as your one and only top friend. Are you telling us you have a sly infatuation with her? I have her on my laptop desktop image also. I love Lindsay. I love the idea of Lindsay and her surviving the hate that the people who made her show her. America loves to eat there babies. They will bring you to the top then throw you right down. Lindsay is at the point now where she will show everyone she will survive. I love her and if she reads this I LOVE YOU. Not even in a sexual way but just as a person from what I know of her. What exactly is a ‘electric puani’? Electric Punani is the embodiment of great energy and music compiled onto one night on a dance floor. Electric Punani is a monthly party me and my partners have been doing for about a year now. We mix dance and up tempo music with reggae, soca and dancehall. Our fans and supporters come in all different colours shapes and sexualities and we embrace all of them with love. Our events are thrown the last Monday of every month at Sway in NYC. And we shut the city down on those nights. Download Melo-x ‘Mustafa’s Renaissance’ now at www. myspace.com/meloxtra Text by Shamz Le Roc Photography by TONE
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music
Poppy and The Jezebels are a four piece band from Birmingham who formed when the rest of us were either playing truant or filling our heads with algebra, which is equally useless. The Cut caught up with Poppy to see what they’re up to now. Who are the Jezebels? There are three other girls - Dom who plays keys, Molly who plays bass and is the main vocalist and then there’s Amber who plays electric guitar. I‘m 18, Mollie’s 16 and both Amber and Dom are 17. How old were you when you started? Molly was about 13. We were still in school and obviously we had to mature quite a lot and get better at our instruments because we started so early, but it’s good because playing in the band was good motivation. At school the instrument classes are always so dire! They’re awful. If you couldn’t play an instrument – and I can’t - you always got the Xylophone. Or the maracas or something! How did the band begin? Had it been planned for a long time? We’ve all been friends for years; Dom and Amber have known each other since they were little kids. Dom’s the kind of person who gets an idea in her head and just wants to go for it straight away. The band was one of the many things that she decided to go for and it just really worked out so well. Dom found me through a mutual friend at school. I didn’t know her that well before we started the band. So it was very much ‘do you wanna be in the band?’ kind of thing. Then we became really good friends through that which was really nice.
What’s been your craziest show? Have you had crowd surfing and madness or are they all pretty tame? We don’t tend to have that kind of thing, a lot of people tend to think that because we’re a young band, that we’re gonna be really raucous, some sort of Libertines lairy kind of thing which we’re really not. We’re a lot more into the music, than we are into that. But we’ve had all kind of crazy experiences on the road: we’ve been locked in attics, we’ve had people keeping us from getting any kind of alcohol, things to do with our age… It can be really irritating because you’re playing a venue and generally the promoter really wants you to play there but for some reason the venue can’t see past the fact that you’re underage, even though you’re there in a professional position! What kind of clothes do you wear, does the band have a ‘look’ like the Horrors or Ipso Facto do? A lot of the things we like
are quite similar to the way that Ipso Facto dress, but we don’t have the same style, we just kind of wear what we like. We wear a lot of vintage clothes. Dom and I are really into our 70s designers like Bill Gibb, but I love like Barbara Hulanicki and Bus Stop as well so if I can get anything on eBay from people like that, I’m chuffed. I like a lot of twenties and thirties stuff if I can get my hands on it and it isn’t too ruined. We like to mix it up as well, though: we do wear Topshop and we’ve never wanted to look like we’re a retro revival, which we’re absolutely not. What do you write about? Everything really. In the past year I was getting really frustrated with being at school and I felt it was quite oppressive. It kind of feels like sometimes you’re just doing exam after exam in order to prove to somebody that you’re worth something and I kind of got to the point where I was like, actually I don’t care what people think. I just want
to be able to escape and do things creatively. So songs like Rhubarb and Custard are about that. It’s quite bittersweet being a teenager at the moment. There are a lot of good things and there quite a lot of opportunities for young people but it can feel like there’s a huge amount of pressure as well. Tell me something people would be surprised to know about you. Amber’s favourite bands are the most cheesy bands on earth - she absolutely loves the Spice Girls and bands like that! I’m massively into proper 80s goth like The Birthday Party. I suppose they do go into our music a little bit but never very obviously.
www.myspace.com/ poppyandthejezebels Text by Jenny Barnes Photography courtesy of the artist
THE CUT 49
music
music
the cut guide to NYC
the cut guide to NYC The Cut Music Editor Shamz Le Roc takes us on a tour of NYC. New York, New York, as Frank Sinatra once sang. The city never sleeps. I stayed out there for 3 weeks and it simply didn’t feel like enough! From the people, to the culture, to their way of living, it’s most definitely a place to love, loathe and live. The Empire State Building, the subways, Madison Square, they’re all wonderful, pretty and prissy indeed, although this time I decided to get down and dirty and head Down Town. The Down Town scene is pretty much the equivalent to the East Central scene out here. Filled with plenty of young creatives that like to party and bullsh*t! Every day of the week there’s a place to be and if you’re not there, you basically miss out! The night I arrived, I partied. There was no time to rest! Maluca invited me down to
the Annex for an event called ‘Acrylic’. Hosted by the oh so chic Contessa Stuto. Good music, CHECK! Cheap drinks, CHECK! Cute guys, CHECK! It was most definitely a good warm up night. It got better, Friday we hit up Santos Party House for ‘Open’ hosted by Va$htie and Osclops, with dj sets played by Rich Medina and the one and only Q Tip. This place was packed. I’m talking ram but the vibes just floated with the music straight to the ceiling. I was in the V.I.P kicking it with Q Tip. Tip was really cool and laid back, we took a pic together pulling funny faces. As the week progressed, the parties flowed in more and more. My mate DJ Kingdom had hooked me up with a performance at Sway. Now, I’d heard a lot about Sway before I went out there so I was excited yet slightly nervous. How would the crowd take me I thought? They obviously wouldn’t know any of my songs. What if they give me that ‘A Bugs life’ stare? None the less, all of that flew out the window once I touched the mic. They were a fantastic crowd, I got them moving! This was the peak of my whole trip! Wednesdays presents ‘C’est Noir’, which I think translates to ‘it is black’ or something. The spot just oozed fun! The moment I stepped in I saw a dude crowd surfing! I’ve never seen that before in my life! But I smiled to myself and thought, only in New York! Ha. This place is cool because from the outside you wouldn’t expect it to be a club, it looks real low key. Downstairs there’s also three of these sauna looking rooms, where you can just go in and chill whilst the party goes on, or do whatever else you please. Speakers hang from the ceiling – they are chained, so there’s no chance of one falling and douching you in your head. People stand on chairs, skank out and go crazy!
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The sun blazed from the sky, day in and out, I swear I was in utopia. I took a trip down to Bleecker Street in Manhattan, Greenwich Village. This area is magnificento - if that’s how you say ‘magnificent’ in Spanish. Packed with ice cream parlours, cafes, bakeries, pizza joints, it’s a fat kids dream. Well it was my dream anyway. The road also holds my favourite store, Marc by Marc Jacobs and other brands such as Ralph Lauren, Mulberry, Juicy Couture, a few cool boutiques and more! But, only go there with some dough in your pocket, otherwise it’s a shot to the heart mate, I tell ya. The third performance in was at Moomia Lounge. It’s definitely a place to check out! In the house that night was also Melo-X and resident Dj Will Gates, who tears the house down every week! The club’s theme is Egyptian, with hieroglyphics on the wall and Shisha bongs for all the smokers. That place had me wylin’ son! – Yea I learnt that ‘wylin’ term in New York. Although, the award for best interior design of a club, goes to ‘Gold Bar’, on Broome street. This place had gold skeleton heads caved into the wall, with draping gold chain curtains, gold decorated tables and more. It was like Mr T’s deepest fantasy! Everything was just gold. I couldn’t help but stand in awe of the place. It’s
amazing. Sadly you’re not allowed to take pictures in there. Womp, womp, womp but check out their website for your own personal visual orgasm. The crowd was a little different to the other clubs I visited but still filled with cool people and Estelle, fellow Londoner was in the place that night too! It dawned on me, it seemed as if New Yorkers partied on the weekdays and chilled on the weekends. It’s the totally opposite out here! But none the less, there’s always something to get into. A friend
from the Bape store had invited me to a ‘cook out’ (BBQ). Man, I hadn’t had a hot dog that tasted that good in a while. There was also ‘The 40 Ounce Bounce’, where young people hook up, chill on the grass, and drink 40 ounces, I didn’t get to attend but hopefully that will be inspiration to someone reading this and they can throw another and invite me!
the future. Tell her Shamz sent ya! Number 2, get papped by Tone! (http://www.facebook. com/l/;www.photobytone. com) He’s such a darling! And he takes the best nightlife photography I’ve ever seen. You can catch him down at Sway every Monday. He took a picture of me and some friends. Look at how the light just illuminates our skin…
Two things I recommend to do whilst in New York. Ladies and males if you’re into it, get your make up done by Aire, Disco Make Up Queen, she’s
They say ‘New York’ the city that never sleeps. They’re right. New York stays on it 2.4.7 like a bunny rabbit. But this is what makes New York, New
York. The trains run all night, the lights at Time Square stay shining bright. It’s like exactly in the movie! But this trip showed me something no film has ever conveyed, something no film has ever taught me. It taught me how to get down and dirty. Until we meet again New York.
Text by Shamz Le Roc Photography by TONE
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“Michael called him to his office and one of the security guys threw a pie in his face.”
music michael jackson
Michael’s speech at James Brown’s funeral Michael was in awe of James Brown and let the world know when he gave a speech at his hero’s funeral in 2006: ‘James Brown is my greatest inspiration… When I saw him move, I was mesmerised. I never saw a performer move like James Brown. ... James Brown, I shall miss you, and I love you so much. Thank you for everything.’
Stills from the Alabama trip
Rare Michael Jackson Moments When Michael Jackson passed away suddenly on the 25th June the world went into shock. Google was so inundated with users trying to confirm the story that it shut down thinking it was under attack. Michael’s public memorial in Los Angeles attracted over a billion viewers: not since the passing of Princess Diana, Elvis Presley or John F. Kennedy has the world mourned on such a grand scale. With such intense public interest and so much media speculation about the weeks leading up to Michael’s death, some of the rarer moments from his life have been overlooked: times when his personality, sense of humour and musical ability captivated and inspired many young people. Here, The Cut looks back at some of those snapshots into his life, out-takes and insights that capture Michael in his own words and give a feel for who he really was.
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The Jackson Five visit Alabama From the documentary Michael Jackson’s Private Home Movies, which was first broadcast in 2003. At this point in the film, Michael is narrating while watching footage of himself shot in the early 70s which shows him driving to Alabama with the rest of his family and arriving at a small wooden shack where Uncle Johnny, an elderly relative on his mother’s side, lived. Michael recalls, ‘They ate possum but I wouldn’t have any! They’re very cute they’ve got these pink noses and big eyes. They’re very inviting but I wouldn’t want to eat one! This is my mother’s stepfather ‘Poppa’. This is Sugababe: she helps take care of Uncle Johnny, she loves to dance. Uncle Johnny is truly a character, he had this drink called white lightning and this drink was so strong… I’m not joking! One sip and it will get you drunk. My brother Tito took a sip and he went WOW!
Jackson five in Alabama
Michael and ‘Uncle Johnny
He couldn’t believe it but I stayed away from it. Sugababe had some that’s why she was dancing! Sugababe was hiding in the house because when it was time to leave she couldn’t take it but Bill brought her out. It was a wonderful experience. It was just really phenomenal.’ www.dailymotion.com/video/ xbaph_michael-jacksonprivate-home-movies_events
The Billie Jean home demo For the 25th anniversary of Thriller, Michael released his original home demo of Billie Jean which comes with improvising, different lyrics and experiments with the vocal line. Michael had to fight to keep Billie Jean on Thriller as Quincy Jones did not like the bass line or the long intro, but he eventually gave in after days of arguments. The song was mixed by Bruce Swedien, who usually does just one mix of a song - but he did 91 of Billie Jean, although it was the second mix which was eventually chosen. Billie Jean was the first video by a black artist to be played on heavy rotation on MTV after Michael’s record label CBS threatened to expose MTV’s anti black stance. At that time, the channel maintained that black artists did not have enough of ‘a rock sound.’ With its ad-libbed lyrics, the home demo gives huge insight into Michael’s writing process as well as his general state of mind. At one point in the discarded lyrics Jackson even sings, ‘I’m a lonely man.’ www.youtube.com/ watch?v=9E_1eYWx4fM
Sugababe in Alabama
Michael’s dancing style was a kind of hybrid of the physical beast-like energy of Brown, the classic musical choreography of Bob Fosse (whose Cabaret, with Lisa Minelli, has been credited with inspiring Jackson’s tipping of his fedora) and breaking and popping. Check out this history of the moonwalk which shows that moonwalking had been in existence as far back as the 1930s, perhaps best performed by Shalamar. www.youtube. com/watch?v=kH0FeiLHH-U In September 2001 Jackson released his short film You Rock My World complete with out-takes. At one point, Jackson performs a dance on top of the bar - an overlooked moment which ably demonstrates his technical genius. www.youtube.com/ watch?v=nxrmJtaZBA0
A Special Sesame Street Christmas Michael loved Muppets and superheroes, Disney characters and larger-thanlife personalities in general - although he himself was very shy. In 1978, he made a brief Sesame Street cameo opposite Oscar the Grouch. Here’s the transcript of that fateful encounter. Michael: One of the main reasons for seeing ghosts is that you’re not keeping yourself busy enough, you’re imagination is allowed to run wild. Oscar: Eh, hey fella, what’s that book you’re reading there, huh? M: ‘Everything you wanted to know about ghosts but were afraid to ask.’ It’s really trash. O: Well, I happen to like trash! I tell you what, I’ll give you this brand new broken portable TV for it, huh? What you say? M: Never mind - you can have this book gratis. O: Yeah but can I have it for free too? M: That too! Merry christmas! O: Well, I won’t go that far but thanks pal! [reads] ‘To avoid ghosts the best thing to do is to keep busy, throw yourself into a simple household chore like cleaning…’ They gotta be kidding! Michael never quite got over his love of Sesame Street: in later years he was pictured shaking hands with Kermit the Frog, grinning from ear to ear. www.youtube.com/ watch?v=mGx8Q6-wXcE Dealing with a studio bully As recalled by studio engineer, Ron Hoffman, who was lucky enough to work with Michael in the 90s.
‘One morning MJ came in with a new song he had written overnight. We called in a guitar player, and Michael sang every note of every chord to him. ‘Here’s the first chord first note, second note, third note. Here’s the second chord first note, second note, third note’, etc., etc. We then witnessed him giving the most heartfelt and profound vocal performance, live in the control room through an SM57. ‘He would sing us an entire string arrangement, every part. Steve Porcaro once told me he witnessed MJ doing that with the string section in the room. Had it all in his head, harmony and everything. Not just little eight bar loop ideas. He would actually sing the entire arrangement into a micro-cassette recorder complete with stops and fills. ‘At one point Michael was angry at one of the producers on the project because he was treating everyone terribly. Rather than create a scene or fire the guy, Michael called him to his office/lounge and one of the security guys threw a pie in his face. No further action was needed.’ www.gearslutz. com/board/so-much-gearso-little-time/401331-robmixtell-us-about-mj.html
Text by Nendie Pinto-Duschinsky
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MUSIC
music
BRAZEN
comment funky followers
him! I’ll get beat up for that when I get home. But, yeah, no rivalry between any of us. We all look out for each other. A little bit of rivalry is good, keeps you on your toes. You’ve been working on a album with Skitz, what can we expect from it? B: A lot! Looking to push five video singles. So, you’re going to see me all over the gaff! I’m looking to take it international… intergalactic!
Having had previous success with Roll Deep where Wiley was under the spotlight, it’s only right that it’s now Brazen’s turn to find his way to stardom with his Skitzproduced solo album. Brazen managed to come down to have a chat with The Cut about Roll Deep, the new record and his last request.
different twist on everything, to touchdown on every aspect.
Where does the name Brazen come from? Brazen: I got the name when I was little, just from being a little runt! If you look it up in the dictionary it just means doing things without knowing the consequences - usually the wrong things.
What are your biggest achievements as an artist so far? B: Back in the day we had the Roll Deep album In At The Deep End. That was my first big breakthrough, I did that as soon as I left school - but this is my first solo project so I am hoping this will be the one for me. Skitz: So many I can’t name, there’s loads. But I am just happy if people like my music - and when people pay me for music too. Every time I receive a cheque that’s my work done basically.
How would you describe the music you make? B: We do everything really! We concentrate on grime all of the singles are all in 140bpm, but still try to take a
Your brother is also in Roll Deep. Is there competition between you two? B: Nah… there’s never competition between me and him. Just I look better than
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How do you differ from other artist? B: I got like different aspects. I got a long term goal: I don’t just want to make money for myself, I want to bring in people from the community that are struggling from where I come from. This album is about the transition from the street into stardom as well as a platform to bring others in and to tell their stories. This all goes together and fits one bill. I would say that’s my selling point. What do you see yourself achieving for the rest of the year? B: I want to be in top ten this year, aiming for a number one in the charts. I am going to push it out as much as possible. The Avenue and Shake a Leg were successful in the UK charts: do you think it’s possible for Grime artists such as yourself to get big within the industry without making mainstream music? B: Do you know what? That makes you think back to every grime artist’s songs… when they make it big they never make a Grime song again. So I don’t know, maybe I can change it all! I got a hard grime single so if it can push the barrier its brilliant.
What does Roll Deep mean to you? B: There’s a lot of meanings for Roll Deep, but it should be about being with your closest friends and sharing everything you got. That’s what rolling deep is really. Roll Deep were part of the Love Music Hate Racism campaign. How do you feel about Mayor Johnson deciding not to fund the Rise Music Festival, which is the largest antiracism gathering in Europe? B: I don’t want to bad Boris off, he’s a mate of mine, but, yeah it’s not the best idea is it? He should fund it because it would make him look good. It’s a bad move, Boris, play your cards right! But hey, that’s Boris… I didn’t vote for him! S: None of us did! He just came in here with his white hair! Why did you call your new album Stardom? B: My real name is Ardom, so I took a twist on that. Plus I got an infatuation with stars. It’s my transition from street to stardom. If the world was to end tomorrow what would be your last request? B: I am trying to keep it positive! I know what mine is but don’t know if I can say it…Eternal life. S: He took my one! My last request would be… I will survive. (starts singing I Will Survive by Gloria Gaynor) I will be surrounded by Brazilian ladies. I will be in a sauna. Not the fake ones but the ones where you get sauna-ed.
Text by Damian Malontie Photography by Shannara Hylton
Apologies if I’m stepping on a few left feet but all this funky funky ‘music’ is getting to a stage where the funky needs to move out of the house. Remember the days when you heard ‘ear dis’ or the classic ‘cure and the cause’ and you would just lose it and take it old school with the bogle... Them days are over. Don’t get me wrong, when its time to put on the hard shoes, the shirt and give the vehicle a quick wash before you drive to central with the team to skank it out, I’ll do a skank or seven, but the idea of this mind control noise is getting out of hand. ‘Showww meee’ where’s
your sense of individuality. Zombies fill the dance with pointless hand movements and getting down low. If it was due to ones own thought peocess, then fair be it, but when your told to go nuts, its a straight par. Parring the par. There are funky tunes that subvert this, my percy being yellow tail, but the common thinking pattern with everyone these days with access to a mic and too much time on their hands is to make a funky funky. Unlike
confused individuals that attempted the same nonsense with grime, this collective or fumbaling idiots doesn’t seem to be on the decrease but infact are spreading like flatulence in a forest fire. Much mainstream funky is a bore too; so if he puts you in the frontline in the times of war... That’s a good thing yeh? You wake up in the morning to play your what?! Get ooooooout! For the sheer
fact that it is British music (despite the fact that it is a remix of house) I will enjoy it because it is a prodouct of my environment. If only we could get back to the ‘sia little man’ days when bussing the bogle was a thing of the now. What do you think?
www.ralphhardy.wordpress.com Text by Kevin Ralph Hardy Illustration by Niki Pilkington
THE CUT 55
Photography
Illustration
BACK IN DAYZ
Ferry Gouw
Performance artist Trojan at
News from the year 1983
Asylum @ Heaven, UK 1983
THE YEAR 1983
COLD WAR AT APEX 1983 is regarded as the apex and turning point of the Cold War, between
Paul Hartnett takes us back to the days of 80’s alternative clubland and talks in his own words about how laws governing sexuality have their impact on the creation of alternative culture.
the United States and the USSR.
When I started taking pictures, I lived in the next road to Sid Vicious and Soo Catwoman, and having a camera meant you had access to people, you had an excuse to go up and say, ‘Hi, can I take your picture?’ That was a particular time in London when there weren’t many alternative nights. Mainstream fashion was hideous - it was the 80s for god’s sake! Back then it was all about the one nighter. There were pubs like The Bell in Kings Cross and there was Heaven - on certain nights it would be called the Asylum - there was also Pyramid This image of Trojan was taken at Asylum. Trojan’s real name was Gary Barnes. He died of methadone overdose at 20 or 21. I photographed him from his arrival in London to pretty much the week before he died. He was the muse of Leigh Bowery and Trojan wore Leigh’s looks better than Leigh himself. He was like a sort of puppet, a spooky doll. He was a clubland star: he came and then like a little ghost he was gone. It was all about getting up at two in the afternoon and making an outfit for the night. People were very competitive and no one wanted to look like anyone else. It was all about being an invention, a fabulous
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FIRST ELECTED GAY MP Chris Smith becomes the first openly gay MP after being elected for Labour.
BLUE PETER VANDALS The Blue Peter Garden was vandalised – news of damage shocked a generation of children.
invention. It was bad to be seen in the same thing twice. What Trojan was doing was so against what was happening in clubland, so he stood out like a fabulous sore thumb. Trojan was this fabulous exotic creature but so much of it was to do with his sexuality. You have to look back at it in terms of history. 1290 was the first mention in English common law of a punishment for homosexuality. Around 1600 there was a treatise in England that prescribed that sodomites should be burnt alive. The buggery act which was introduced by Henry VIII was made punishable by hanging, there was the trial of Oscar
Wilde in 1895, and then in 1967 the Sexual Offences Act came into being, which meant that two homosexual men could have sex if they were over 21. All of that is really important to punk rock and really important to the way things were in the 80s. Gay people had such a history of oppression and victimisation, that when the law changed in the 1967 it took a while for things to kick in at the disco. Then a decade later HIV came a long. This picture of Trojan was taken a good two years after HIV had become a news story. There was so much exhibitionism and so much voyeurism because of the HIV virus, in a way HIV was
like the new punk rock. You see, people were so afraid of sexual contact that they were going down the fetishist route and rubbering up - that’s when the whole fetish scene went wild because it all turned into performance. Back then the dance floor was like suddenly a massive freak show catwalk.
Paul Hartnett is currently working on a novel tentatively entitled ‘You Bitches’ . www.paulhartnett.com www.pymca.com Interview by Nina Manandhar Image courtesy of Paul Hartnett/PYMCA
Since Semifinalists, Ferry Gouw has kept creative with illustration, music video direction and more besides. The Cut asked him to explain just what it is about eyeballs and bloody guts we find so nice to look at. Your work reflects your interest in comic books. Are there any other particular styles of art that give you ideas? Even though stylistically, the most direct and obvious inspiration is comics, I am interested in so many different aspects of art and culture in general. The graphic design of Chip Kidd, films by Cassavetes, classical prints and painting, music and literature. I appreciate many things that may seem bizarre but have this otherworldliness to them. My favourite pieces of design or art are always the ones that are formed as a question, an insinuation, or some stab in the dark where neither the creator nor the
audience are on safe ground, and the dialogue transcends one dimensional meaning. What is it with the eyeballs, zombies and tentacles? I think these are the iconography of the generation who grew up with the subcultures of 80s and 90s comics and films, so I’m often involved in projects that use these imageries. I think they can be fun, it’s like taking authorship over things that are horrific in real life and neutering the message, turning them into pure escapism. The Hold the Line video you directed for Major Lazer is amazing. Do you prefer
working on video projects to straight illustration? I don’t really have any preference. This Major Lazer project was one of the most fun experiences I’ve had working on anything. So it really depends how engaged I am by what I’m doing. That will be the barometer usually. Do you have any advice for young illustrators? My advice would be to make whatever you do, be it illustration or otherwise, be a part of who you are, something that shapes you as a person. Therefore your life is engaged to your passion and your identity becomes intrinsic in
your work and you’ll never have to sell a pitch. Never have to aspire to be anyone but yourself because you’re already doing it. What’s your favourite horror movie? Ring - the Japanese version. I watched it at the cinema when it came out not knowing what it was all about and believe me, the whole cinema of total strangers were hugging each other in fear.
www.ferrygouw.com Text by Hollie V Robson Image by Ferry Gouw for Mad Decent
THE CUT 57
Photography lawrence watson the world is yours
ALL TIME HERO
The Cut speaks to an all time photography Hero, Lawrence Watson. Reeling off photographer Lawrence Watson’s shot list is like listing a ‘who’s who’ of music legends of the past 25 years: Chuck D, Oasis, Roxanne Shante, Morrissey and Grace Jones, to name but a few. Now, a lifetime shooting the musicians he loves has paved the way for the first major retrospective of his work and the publication of new book The World Is Yours. Watson is a surprisingly down to earth and modest character to interview and a few minutes in his company puts pay to any myths that to be a successful photographer you have to be as hard as nails. He was just 15 when he first picked up a camera and starting shooting, almost by accident: ‘We used to have music workshops in our youth club, some of the old punk bands used to do music lessons there. I had a walk on the wild side with the old UK Subs bass player. When I realised I wasn’t getting anywhere he said, is there anything
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else you like? I told him that I quite liked photography, so he said, why don’t you give that a go?‘ The rest is history. Watson built up his portfolio in the evenings and weekends by relentlessly shooting at gigs, while working a day job in a photographic darkroom. His big break came when he got the opportunity to shoot The Style Council for a performance they were playing for their Confessions of a Pop Group album. Paul Weller loved the shots so much he decided to use them for the album artwork. Since then Watson’s been around the world on whistle-stop assignments to photograph everyone from Public Enemy to George Clinton to Run DMC. However he relishes opportunities to create a more intimate picture of the artists at work by getting inside their lives and accompanying them on tour. He’s toured with Weller, Oasis and the Pet Shop Boys to produce some epic shots. ‘It’s nice when you’ve got time with people and you find them in the environments
they’re comfortable in. Those treadmill shoots where you go and then do the PR interview in the hotel room always a bit of a sour occasion’ Whether he has ten minutes or ten days to work with, it’s clear that Watson has a consistent ability to make his subjects feel at ease and get the best out of them. Even when they are 5 hours late: ‘Grace Jones was notoriously late, but worth waiting for. When she turns up she’s all singing, all dancing, puking up at one point, saying, did you get that shot, did you get it? She wants you to shoot everything.’ So who’s left for Watson’s music hall of fame? Who would he have loved the chance to capture on film? ’Dead or alive? That’s a hard one... Dee Martin, Jonny Cash, The Rat Pack would have been great! In the future, David Byrne would be good.’
aspiring photographers today. With everybody out there doing it, is it easier or harder to make it happen today? ‘A lot of people have sussed what a lovely thing photography it is to do for a living. People have more access which is good. When I left school you either got a job at the post office, or you got a job at the bank. People like David Bailey were a great inspiration to me when I was 15, 16. I guess I saw that he went out there and got a camera and did it, so I could do it as well. If you love something and you’re passionate about it then you can make it happen. Try different things and styles of photography, and hopefully you’ll find your niche, find shooting what makes you happy.’
‘The World Is Yours’ is out now. The Cut is giving away 4 copies in association with Size?, one of the official stockists of the book. One of the freebies will be signed by
Self-starter Watson is an inspiration to young photographers here at The Cut, but I wonder what he thinks about the opportunities for
a ‘mystery’ celebrity . To win just answer this simple question. Which well know rapper has a song titled ‘The World Is Yours’?
Opposite page Ian Brown
Email: info@thecutnewspaper.com
This page Roxanne Shante
THE CUT 59
Photography lawrence watson the world is yours
ALL TIME HERO
Opposite page George Clinton This page Public Enemy
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THE CUT 61
Reviews by Ayo Kila, Bwayla Newton,
reviews c l ub s
mus ic together and just appreciate the music. Regular DJs being DJ Khalil, DJ Rags, Mr Thing and Budgie with their extended family including DJ Inka and DJ Snips, all of whom DJ regularly at different parties and events are now part of a successful evening that centres mainly around the best of the 90’s era. Ahead of the curve and drawing even bigger crowds ,Proof offers a one off special with Pharo Monch at the Jazz Café Friday 7th August. Be sure to get there early as often the queues are very long and let’s face it, it’s not about haggling with door staff or licking strangers’ hands for their entry stamp. Trust. BN Top 5 Livin’ Proof Anthems 1. A Tribe Called Quest Electric Relaxation 2. Jaylib Feat Frank N’ Dank Mcnasty FilthTry it: 3. Mobb Deep Give Up The Goods 4. Busta Rhymes Party Is Goin’ On Over Here 5. Camp Lo Luchini
ON POINT Last month DJ Harry Love’s newest club night venture returned to the Blag Club on Kensal Road, promising the biggest party tunes from literally every genre of music that exists! A selection of hip hop, R&B, soul, bashment, reggae, disco, garage, funk, 70s and 80s classics and some good old house music was on the agenda, with the aim of ‘bringing the party back to west London’. DJs on the night included Mr Love himself, along with the likes of DJ Diablo and DJ Gone, whilst UK Hip Hop veteran Kyza Smirnoff played the perfect lively host. It’s not often you get to hear Nirvana, Mavado, Michael Jackson and Wiley within the walls of the same club, but as the White Stripes classic Seven Nation Army was introduced to the crowd, Kyza reminded the surprised faces in sight that the On Point crew ‘play
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Club photography by Rasharna Hylton.
Shona Harvey, Akwasi Tawia Poku.
every bludclart ting!’ Entry was a very reasonable £3 for ladies and £5 for the dudes on the guestlist, and £7 all night. So if you’re a genuine music lover and a fiend for all-round positive vibes, then make sure you reach the next On Point – you won’t be disappointed. SH
www.facebook.com/ livingprooflondon
Bashy Catch Me If You Can With this new LP, Bashy has definitely stepped up his game in the music scene. This album features the likes of Jamelia, Dappy from NDubz, Wretch 32, Loick Essien and many more as Bashy strikes out into new waters to expand his fan base. Who Wants To Be A Millionaire, the first single, is a hard hitting electro grime track where Bashy has infused his catchy lyrics with a hard beat. Another one to listen to is Travel the World where Dappy from NDubz lends his voice once again to help Bashy tell his story, this track is definite banger for the summer and will be pumping out on the floats of Notting Hill Carnival come August. ATP
www.myspace. comharryloveonthebeats Photography by Rasharna Hylton
LIVIN’ PROOF Review by Bwayla Newton Livin’ Proof is held every second Saturday of the month at Market Place in the heart of Oxford Circus. It’s a night to celebrate ‘True school hip hop with a dash of soul funk and boogie’ born out of the need for a group of friends to create a night based on music they wanted to play at other venues they worked at, but couldn’t. Livin’ Proof gives ‘true lovers of hip-hop’ the freedom to come
Professor Green Upper Clapton Dance Professor Green keeps it local with possibly the best name for a track this year. With its epic strings and thought provoking lyrics it’s a track for the proud Londonder’s vault. Also check out the Spike Lee influenced video on Youtube.
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The Little Stranger Sarah Waters Review by Bwayla Newton Sarah Waters is an undeniable literary talent. After the success of Tipping the Velvet, the Victorian period novel in which she boldly explored a lesbian relationship, it’s safe to say that in The Little Stranger Waters has crafted a modern classic. Poltergeists of the past seek vengeance on a postwar society, that (lack of the NHS aside) is becoming more like our own. Characters confined by their position in the old class hierarchy fail to heed the words of Betty, their 14 year old house ‘skivvy’ who is called to mop the blood and sweep the shards of glass as the unnatural unfolds around the opulent but decaying house. Waters’ narrator Dr Faraday remains determined to rationalise the chilling and gripping events that are unleashed, drawing the reader into the realms of the psychopathological and supernatural. You will undoubtedly be absorbed by this literary treat. BN Michelle Obama: In Her Own Words Review by Bwayla Newton From law school to the cover of Vogue, Michelle Obama’s one of the most iconic First Ladies the world has seen. In Her Own Words, compiled by
g a me s Lisa Rogak, comprises 200250 quotations arranged into about 25 categories. Rogak draws on various speeches by Mrs Obama, ranging from those given in her career as a high powered Chicago corporate lawyer, to TV interviews and magazine profiles that appeared during the 2008 Presidential campaign. These amusing anecdotes stay true to Mrs Obama’s form by touching on the controversial and capturing the woman, the wife and the academic. Worth reading especially as it depicts the spirit of one of today’s most successful women, all delivered with Michelle’s signature class, grace and unrelenting honesty. BN Brisingr Christopher Paolini Review by Ayo Kila Best selling teen author Christopher Paolini blesses fans with yet another breathtaking adventure in the Inheritance trilogy. Brisingr follows Eragon as he comes to terms with a revelation from Murtagh while keeping his promise to his cousin Roran. In this chapter of the trilogy we see the bond between Eragon and Saphira become stronger as they spend time apart. Paolini also gives Roran a more active role as he tries to juggle married life with becoming one of Nasuada’s most valued warriors. With so much crammed up into one book, Paolini’s trilogy is bound to expand into a cycle. AK
changed, and my main gripe has to be the controls. EA have revamped these so to execute a haymaker (hard punch) you have to hold R2, which is a little annoying. They have also removed the ringside section to get your fighter back into shape and replaced this with a less engaging, and easier, points based system.
UFC Review THQ have gone hard with the new UFC Undisputed 2009 game available on your Xbox or Playstation 3. To start off ,the game can be slightly frustrating as you get to grips with different submissions, fighting styles and takedowns but as soon as you’re familiar with these extensive controls you’re good to beat up your opponent to your heart’s content! Fight your way through all the classes using heavyweight fighters like Frank Mir and Brock Lesnor all the way down to lightweights such as Joe Stephenson and Kenny Forlan or, if you fancy, create your own fighter and build them up to become a world champion. The graphics in the game have been fine tuned with photorealism showing through every kick and punch. This fast paced game keeps you on your toes as you anticipate the next kick or punch to try and counter the move. This is definitely a game to play with all your mates and a something to have in your stack. ATP Fight Night Round 4 Review Three years have passed since the release of the last Fight Night and, while people have been blistermaking and button-bashing around the globe, the guys and girls at EA Sports have managed to come up with a sequel: Fight Night Round 4.
On the over hand the game is now a lot faster and action packed. Counter Blows are one of my favourite new features. This allows you to time your blocks and dodges to perfection so that you can shock your opponent – Tyson style! The legacy mode has also been revamped in the way you customise your character. If you want to create a fighter modeled on yourself you can now upload a photo or, if you have an eye toy or Playstation camera, you can now utilise this feature, which takes the realism up a notch. The level of customisation has also been improved with many apparel manufacturers signing up to the game including Nike and Adidas. Overall, a few things have been changed but the game still draws me into the boxing atmosphere and has still retained the title as the ultimate fighting simulator, whether you want to fight as a featherweight, middleweight, heavyweight or a bantamweight. This game for sure is still one of the great games to play with the lads or the mandem. ATP Fight Night Round 4 is out now on Playstation 3 & Xbox 360
Being a fan of the Fight Night franchise, this game was highly anticipated. To my surprise a few things have
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Sport
Sport
rounders
50/50 horseriding
Horse riding, one of Britain’s past times seems to be an overlooked sport amongst young Londoners, with more emphasis on physical contact sport such as boxing and football. Here at The Cut we went along to see what the giddy up was all about. On a hot summer’s afternoon, Shona and Drew from The Cut team, all groomed and ready, headed down to West Way Stable’s in preparation to tackle this sport, which many regard as ‘dangerous.’ Did anyone one fall off? Did any one have a horse that was out of control or was it an easy ride? Lets see how they got on:
The recent success of the English women’s cricket team in winning the World Cup and the growing number of men taking up netball got us thinking about the issues faced by those young people who play, persevere and become successful in a sport that is not typically taken up by their gender. One such sport is rounders which most of the women colleagues at The Cut had played at school but the young men had not. We were particularly interested as Rounders England, the sports governing body in this country, is currently launching
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a number of activities in the London area through its STAR (Satellite Training Academy for Rounders) centre initiative. The intiative aims to make it easy for people of any age and any ability to join in – including boys! To find out more we caught up with 16 year old Joe Golland who plays for the Unison Rounders Team in South Yorkshire a young man who is excelling What made you interested in the game of rounders? I became interested in the game because it appeals to range of players. It is played at both primary and
senior schools and it is also one of the few sports that both boys and girls can play in. Given that people see rounders as a sport played mainly by women and girls what is the usual reaction when they hear you play rounders to such a high standard? As rounders mainly attracts women the response I get it not always positive but I enjoy playing it so that does not deter me. Is rounders becoming more popular among young men and boys? It is becoming more popular – we are seeing more
and more men and teenagers coming to our games and they seem interested to play and learn new skills through the coaching courses that are available. What could be done to attract more boys into playing the game? More awareness of the sport, get more teachers involved in playing to the correct rules and also provide more opportunities for people to play, practice and develop their rounders skills through creating more STAR centres. Interview by Nicholas Asamoah Text by Paul Macey
Drew: What did you expect? Personally I expected it to be a lot tougher than it was and I thought I would of feel off at least once. I also had the perception that horse riding was more of a female thing. And finally I expected to go a lot faster. What did you like about it? I like the way your in control and if you listen to the instructions given then it’s quite easy to pick up What did you dislike about it? The funny looking, long boots I had to wear because they didn’t have my size in the normal boots (horse riding obviously isn’t made for tall people). Also the actual riding itself was uncomfortable especially when trotting. I also would have liked to go a bit faster but I guess that would come with more lessons.
Did you find it challenging or easy? Personally I found it quite easy, however they’re quite a few things to do at the same time so for those who can’t multitask this could be a bit tricky. Do you think that more young people should get involved with horse riding? Definitely, I say young people should always try different things and venture away from the typical sports and step out of their comfort zone. I would say the best way to go into horse riding would have to be with an open mind and no stereotypical perceptions of it being feminine or posh etc. When you get into it, it’s not bad but personally I would prefer something with a bit more pace that’s slightly more dangerous. Shona: What did you expect? Well before I found out the location of the lesson, I expected to be travelling to some big quiet field somewhere outside of London! I had no idea you could ride a horse under the Westway, that’s sick!
What did you like about it? I liked the structure of the lesson itself, and it was interesting to find out how you are supposed to interact and communicate with the horses when you are riding. Also, the staff there were really friendly and made us feel more than welcome. What did you dislike about it? I guess having to give the horse a couple of kicks every time I wanted it to move – I couldn’t help but feel guilty, even though the instructor assured me that I wasn’t hurting it. Also, you have to do some stretches at the end, which was a bit uncomfortable and I felt I looked like a mug doing them. Did you find it challenging or easy? Definitely challenging! There’s nothing easy about horse riding if you’re a beginner. It’s more technical and specific than you think, and you have to bare a lot of instructions in mind all at the same time while you’re riding, such as holding the reigns in a certain way and positioning your feet correctly.
Do you think that more young people should get involved with horse riding? Yeah of course, why not? The fact that you can have lessons under the Westway gives us young folk no excuse not to! The facilities are there, so let’s take advantage of them. For me, it was something different and a unique experience that I was happy to take part in.
Text by Adrianne McKenzie Photography by Adrianne McKenzie
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Friends
Contributors
Out and About
Issue 04
Executive Editors and Publishers Nina Manandhar and Nendie Pinto-Duschinsky Photography Mentors Adrian Wood and Derek Wiafe Journalism Mentor Paul Macey Design Sara El Dabi and Jo Glover
Executive Editors of The Cut Nina Manandhar and Nendie Pinto-Duschinsky are directors of Hardcore Is More Than Music, a Social Enterprise specialising in youth consultancy and arts collaborations. The Cut is a non profit project which is part funded by work for clients including The Stephen Lawrence Centre, The Tate, The Institute of Contemporary Arts, Exposure PR, Dr Martens, The British Youth Council, Blue Rubicon PR and Westminster Council.
Nicholas Asamoah Senior Editor
Ronnie Grebenyuk Senior Editor
Chloe Forde Fashion Editor
Shona Harvey Features Editor
Jenni Barnes Fashion Journalist
Shamz Le Roc Music Editor
Alpha Gougsa Political Editor
Adrianne Mckenzie Journalist
Warsan Nur Journalist
Drew Mark Journalist
Kevin Ralph Hardy Akpobi Journalist
Roxanne Swan Journalist
Jemil Saka Photographer
Ibrahim Fazal Photographer
Amit Cholera Photographer
Rasharna Hylton Photo Desk Editor
Kiran Nijjar Photo Desk Editor
Edward Kagatuzi Photographer
Patrick Owalbi Photographer
Akwasi Tawia Poku Photo Desk Editor
Shannara Hylton Photographer
Jennifer Payne McDonald Photographer
Delia Johnson Photographer
Niki Pilkington Illustrator
Hardcore Is More Than Music is in The Observer’s Top 100 Creative Business’ in the UK / Courvoisier Future 500 for 2009. Contributors Dami Abajingin Kirby Howell-Baptiste Hollie V Robson Damian Malontie Dammy Angel Laoye Ricardo Nunes Silas Osei Cassie Clarke Roshni Patel Bwayla Newton For information on our activities please visit www.thecutnewspaper.com www.hardcoreismorethanmusic.com
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