Women in Foodservice Abigail Kirsch Unlike the game of tennis, you only get one serve in catering—one event, one special occasion. You have to get it right the first time. You must always strive for perfection. Up the Stairs
threw dinner parties and wowed
Abigail Kirsch began her ascent to
succession of meals that drew on
the top of the New York catering
her own creativity. At one of these
scene on the steps outside her
soirées, she created a crown roast
grandmother’s modest two-family
of lamb filled with wild rice and
house in Boston. Wafting down
pineapple. It was an unexpected
from the second floor apartment
delight for her guests. And it was
came the aromas of honey cake,
the starting bell for her culinary
sponge cake, and many other
future.
her friends and family with a
traditional holiday dishes. Abigail
At a time when there were few
followed those mouthwatering
cooking schools for the food
aromas up the stairs and into a
enthusiast, Abigail found two—
world of food—a world she loves
James Beard’s school and Ann
and has never left.
Roe Robbins’ school, both in New
When we hear the name Abigail
York City. She chose to take demo
Kirsch, most of us think of the
and participation lessons with Ms.
exclusive catering company she
Robbins as she thought Mr. Beard’s
and her family have built, not the
fees a bit pricey at the time!
woman herself. But long before
In 1966, Abigail made her way
Abigail Kirsch became Abigail
to the CIA’s New Haven campus
Kirsch Catering Relationships,
for a nearly disastrous summer.
with its enormous reputation and
She arrived to her first class
eight exclusive venues, she was
wearing the required dietitian’s
a woman motivated solely by a
white uniform and a hair net. She
passion for food and drive to learn
was the only woman. When she
how to prepare it to perfection.
about the Chicken Pojarski the
“lived” with Gourmet magazine
chef-instructor was preparing, he
and every other food magazine she could get her hands on. She
20
raised her hand to ask a question
By her own admission, Abigail
2013
scrupulously ignored her until
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