THE CIRCLE Magazine | Annual Journal 2023/24

THE CIRCLE

THE ART OF CONNOISSEURSHIP ANNUAL JOURNAL 2023/24

Publisher

JD Banck

info.thecirclemagazine@gmail.com

Editor-in-Chief

JD Banck

Photography

H Derksen GUEST CONTRIBUTORS

NICK NEGHINĂ

JAN A. FISHMAN

For advertising inquiries, or to request our Media Kit, please contact THE CIRCLE magazine at: info.thecirclemagazine@gmail.com

PUBLISHER’S MESSAGE

After another year of exciting growth, THE CIRCLE magazine is realizing its lofty description as, ‘The exclusive journal of the high artistry world’ But what is the ‘high artistry’ world? For us, it is the community of independent creators at the top of their industries, for whom we built this platform. For many, magazines are a window into a world they follow from afar. For our readers, collecting and connoisseurship are often worlds within worlds Within the beau monde, private receptions and VIP lists offer access to limited editions and rare releases that others can only dream of encountering – let alone owning. We are a window into this world, and a portal for all who wish to enter it

In this issue we also celebrate the often hidden world of private clubs, showcasing a West Coast institution: the Vancouver Club. A natural extension of the high artistry world, clubs preserve cuisine, culture and tradition, in living communities of gourmands, connoisseurs and aesthetes. And for this reason, it is our pleasure to share their stories on our platform, as we have from the beginning. Honed by extremity, the high artistry landscape is similar in many ways to the Beagle Channel – which I visit in my editorial at the end of this issue. A terrain few seek out, it nevertheless rewards the intrepid with treasures of incomparable beauty. Bringing to you the creations of those we can now call our friends, we dedicate ourselves to exploring this world. Beyond the boundaries of the mainstream, the best in fine penmaking, horology, fashion and private hospitality are carefully gathered, culminating in the ultimate handbook for the true connoisseur. This is our path at THE CIRCLE magazine, and I welcome all those who will make the journey with us

CONNOISSEURS

Special thanks to all who participated in the inaugural social gathering of The Circle magazine’s exclusive group of collectors, the Connoisseurs.

Join Connoisseurs to access The Circle magazine’s international community of collectors and creators.

CONNOISSEURS VIP ACCESS

CONNOISSEURS VIP EVENT Hosted by Montblanc

Photo Credit: Sherman Lee

DEUS REGIT

THE RETURN OF THE KING

The world’s preeminent penmaker fashions the Holy Grail for collectors, with a limited edition heralding Divine Rule. Weighed in the balance and refined in fire, David Oscarson’s latest collection reaches through the veil, giving glory to the FatherofLight.

Like a bespoke shirt from Budd, or a pair of Baron de Redé loafers from G. J. Cleverly, David Oscarson’s limited editions are sought out by the world’s most discerning collectors, as the pinnacle of the penmaker’s art. Employing guilloché and hard enamel techniques normally associated with the world of watchmaking, David Oscarson has been both a conservator and industry leading innovator since the launch of his first collection in 1999.

Orbiting no one else’s star, David Oscarson has once again transcended the mundane to give honour to the highest authority, with a stunning limited edition collection he reverently calls, Deus Regit (God Rules) A true connoisseur and man of faith, the legendary figure behind the brand does not shy away from eternal truth, stating: “Deus Regit is an acknowledgement of God’s goodness, mercy and love for all of His children, individually The collection stands as a testimony of gratitude to the Giver of life, light and eternal happiness.”

Ruling over the cap of this collection is a diamond-set scepter, with the cap band centered at the reverse. Turning the cap around, patterns of clouds in melded hard enamel part to reveal the LORD, returning in His glory. Beneath ominous layers of dark, translucent enamel, the barrel reveals a more sinister theme of rising guilloché flames. And encircling the base of the barrel is a sculpted serpent in sterling silver or vermeil, set with ruby eyes.

Representing prison and paradise, the section is divided into two halves, with engravings that bring together the collection’s opposing themes Taking hold of this edition, all who use it are given the opportunity to choose their own path and write their own story Encouraging all to consider this power of free will, Oscarson says of the Eternal Father: “His power and glory rule and triumph over all opposition: light over darkness; life over death; health over sickness; love over hatred; liberty over captivity; joy over misery; peace over contention; comfort over fear; hope over despair and right over wrong. He pleads with us to choose the former of all of these, and to choose to follow Him.”

Deus Regit is the 37th collection in the David Oscarson series of limited edition writing instruments. Available as either fountain pen or rollerball, the collection continues in the spirit of traditional craftsmanship by combining the centuries-old technique of guilloché with the art and expertise of hard enamel. Using a mortar and pestle, a composition of glass, water and metal oxides is ground for hours by hand. When settled, the water is removed, leaving the fine paste that is the basisfor hard enamel. A quill is then used to apply each coat of the mixture to the surface of the solid sterling silver, ensuring that the entire guilloché area is completely covered in enamel. The components are then fired in a furnace at temperatures exceeding 1,000° F, fusing the enamel to the metal and forming a layer of glass.

After cooling, the pieces are manually ground with a diamond file, restoring their proper shape and surface. This tedious process is repeated at length, until the level of enamel reaches the depth required to cover the peaks and fill the valleys of each intricate guilloché pattern. When the final stages of firing are completed, the pieces are polished and buffed, revealing the velvety finish of the translucent hard enamel.

The Deus Regit collection will be produced in five color variations, each limited to 88 pieces:

Azure blue cap and mossy black barrel with silver trim – 88 pieces

Grey cap and ruby barrel with silver trim – 88 pieces

Grey cap and mossy black barrel with silver trim – 88 pieces

Grey cap and grey barrel with vermeil trim – 88 pieces

Blue cap and blue barrel with vermeil trim – 88 pieces

For those wishing to further explore David Oscarson’s limited edition collections, we recommendPalladioJewellers , as an authorized retailer offering an exceptional client care experience. Tel: 1 604.685 3885

A JOURNEY ON THE ORIENT EXPRESS

Montblanc’slatest HighArtistrycollectioninterpretstheromanceandeleganceofEurope’s most luxuriousrail experience, The Orient Express,through the skill and craftsmanship of itsHamburgatelier.Wecall ‘allaboard’ forourepicexplorationof thisyear’s seveneditions.

Representing the highest expression of Montblanc’s artistic and technical repertoire, the annual High Artistry collections released by the brand are some of the most exclusive limited editions in the world – often selling out to ardent collectors before their public release.

Capturing the romance of the 3,000-kilometre journey of the Orient Express, Montblanc has crowned its 2023 High Artistry collection with a limited edition of one, in hand-engraved solid Au 750 signature gold As with the original Orient Express, the journey begins under the ironwork roof of the Gare de Lyon, evoked by a diamond-studded grid decorating the Limited Edition 1’s cap top Tracing the rail line’s historical routes from 1930, diamonds, rubies and blue sapphires grace the forepart of the barrel Paving the cap and barrel, diamonds set in a floral, Art Deco-inspired pattern, celebrate the interior marquetry decorations of René Prou. The edition is complimented by a wooden travel case, inlaid with handcrafted ornamental wood marquetry, and equipped with both an inkwell and functioning mechanical watch housing a Minerva 62.00 movement

A glamourous setting for real life intrigue and espionage, the spy Robert Baden-Powell is said to have posed as a naturalist on the Orient Express, encoding secret information into illustrated butterflies Commemorating this, the Limited Edition 1 Papillon, whose silhouette emulates the oval form of Orient Express rail cars, exhibits an intricate butterfly of plique-à-jour enamel Encased behind a windowed door, the butterfly’s full wingspan unfolds when the door is opened With light reflecting through enameled wings, the butterfly serves as a fitting homage to the rail line’s original glass work, created by René Lalique.

Carrying over the theme of espionage to the Limited Edition 5, a window on the edition’s barrel opens to reveal a delicate miniature painting of the Mata Hari Made of solid Au 750 signature gold, hand-carved red chalcedony gives an impression of the upholstery pattern created for the Orient Express’ furniture The white chalcedony cap top further opens to reveal a miniature automaton watch with a mechanical movement and enamel dial.

One of the most famous guests to travel aboard the train, Agatha Christie immortalized the rail line in her 1934 crime novel, Murder on the Orient Express. Paying tribute to the doyenne of the murder mystery, the design of the Montblanc High Artistry A Journey on the Orient Express Limited Edition 10 makes many references to the details of the fictional case. Most notable among these is the white chalcedony cap top, which opens to reveal a ‘broken’ miniature clock with its time frozen at 01:15 – the time when the murder happened Crafted from stained sycamore wood, the cap and barrel are decorated with handcrafted gold-leaf and crystal flower inlays, while the edition’s solid gold cone is decorated with brilliant cut diamonds and a screwing gear mechanism for piston filling. Hand-engraved on the solid Au 750 gold barrel is a serpent body and head, partly set with brilliant cut diamonds and two rubies as eyes, honouring the famous 1993 Agatha Christie Writers Edition. Inspired by the locomotive of the Orient Express, the Limited Edition 83 represents the iron machinery of a steam engine in structured black lacquer and a skeleton overlay in solid Au 750 signature gold Partly rhodium-coated and set with sapphires depicting the Orient Express’ wheels and side rails, the overlay and cap elegantly reflect the gold livery found on the outside of the rail line. Further capturing the midnight blue of the line’s rail cars, the cap and barrel of the Limited Edition 333 pairs translucent blue lacquer with an intricate rhodiumcoated, solid Au 750 signature gold skeleton overlay in a ‘luggage rack’ pattern. The cap top is crowned with a Montblanc emblem made of mother-of-pearl embedded in black onyx.

And finally, celebrating the first Eastern voyage of the train on October 4th , 1883, the Limited Edition 1883 is made of midnight blue resin in the classical Meisterstück 149 size. The side of the cap is elegantly etched with a design inspired by René Prou’s artwork, and offers a model the modern traveller may dare to take along on an actual journey. Possibly the first High Artistry collection with an edition accessible to most collectors, this may be the time to begin your own exploration of the high artistry landscape – whether from an armchair or maybe even a rail car.

TUTANKHAMUN CENTENNIAL OF THE PHARAOH

Montegrappa recreates Tutankhamun’s sarcophagus, in a masterwork of cloisonné enamel and lost wax casting. Fit for a king and marking the centennial of Howard Carter’s discovery of the legendary tomb, discover the craftsmanship that brought to life the greatest treasure of antiquity.

Fifty yearsafterthediscovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb by archaeologist Howard Carter, in 1922, Montegrappa pays tribute to the Pharaoh with an ultra-limited edition in sterling silver, gold, cloisonné enamel and black diamonds

Available in vermeil or solid 18-karat gold, perhaps the most impressive element of the Tutankhamun is its sterling silver barrel Cast using a lost-wax technique, the barrel is organically aged with an advanced cataphoretic coating, giving it a linen-like colouration. In a stunning contrast between the rawness of death and the glory of the eternal, the death mask of Tutankhamun iscrafted invermeil or solid 18-karat yellow gold, worked in base-relief and a cloisonné enamel process, and set with black diamonds

The full collection includes 100 fountain pens and 100 rollerballs in vermeil and sterling silver, and only 10 pieces in solid 18-karat gold. Presented in a diorama reconstructing Tutankhamun’s burial chamber, this investment-grade limited edition is fit for a museum.

GOLDEN AGE REINVENTING THE OGIVA

Maiora introduces a new take on the classical Ogiva shape, with a resplendent collection honouring the elements. Dubbed the ‘Ultra Ogiva’ by its legendary creator, Nino Marino, the Maiora Ogiva Golden Age showcases the very best of Neapolitan craftsmanship and style.

ANeapolitan penmaker that rocketed to the forefront of the collectorsphere, Maiora emerged from the workshop of the legendary Nino Marino, after his 36 years at the DELTA pen company.

“Maiora respects the tradition represented by the words, ‘Made in Italy’,” says Marino, “Remaining faithful to its own unique vision and style, in a perfect balance between elegance and function. These are the strengths of Maiora: Experience, Passion and Enthusiasm. This is a story to which I am pleased to add my signature… a simple name, now synonymous with the history of beautiful Itallian pens.”

Recently unveiling its new Ogiva Golden Age, Maiora preserves the tradition of Neapolitan penmaking, while taking the lead in the quest to find new materials. Featuring a cap and barrel in an Itallian-made material filled with swirls of gold powder, the Golden Age reinvents a classical shape in a form that has been dubbed the ‘Ultra Ogiva’ Appointed with a 925 sterling silver cap band in a Pompeianinspired motif, the collection’s four element-themed editions are available in two versions: A cartridge or converter-filled variant, fitted with a stainless-steel nib; or, a numbered, piston-filled variant, fitted with a 14-karat gold nib available in EF, F, M, B, 1.1 mm Stub and Flex. The collection is further accented in three finishes: gold, rose gold (for the brown only), and palladium.

With lashing gusts of blue and gold, the Wind edition features a matching blue ink window – a luxurious touch that hints at the bespoke nature of this collection. Swirls of vibrant red and touches of white explode on the surface of Fire, with mottled browns giving the appearance of finely dyed silk, on Earth. And finally, a classical black edition completes the collection, with a look befitting the Ogiva’s elegant silhouette. Vivid and dynamic, these new materials are at once novel and familiar, in a perfect representation of the Maiora brand. Rather than abandoning tradition, Maiora explores its horizons, and takes us along for the journey.

Along with sister brands Nettuno 1911 and the DELTA pen company, Maiora stands out on the luxury landscape for another reason, however. Bringing Itallianmade pens to a wider spectrum of collectors since 1982, Nino Marino’s industry role has forever changed the way collectors collect.

In 2020, Marino co-founded CONNOISSEURS, an exclusive, online community of collectors, as-well-as the dedicated private group, Maiora Pens Lovers. Ina yearof global volatility, NinoMarino revolutionized thebrandclient relationship, as one of the first creators to allow unprecedented access to his collectors. Brand enthusiasts became friends, and began sharing stories of how the CEO had personally assisted them Acts of kindness and generosity, carried out over many years at the DELTA pen company, solidified Marino’s reputation as an industry leader who valued his clientele. What were once prized pieces from a prestigious brand, became links in a very human connection. And a new era in collecting was born.

A boutique brand with a wealth of experience, it is this power to take collectors along on a journey which may prove to be the secret behind Maiora’s success – and the rebirth of DELTA in 2022. Heralding a new golden age for the Itallian penmaker, Maiora’s ‘Ultra Ogiva’ not only showcases Neapolitan craftsmanship and style, but gives new collectors an opportunity to join the brand that became a family.

Join CONNOISSEURS , hosted by JD Banck and YouTube’s Samuel Naldi, and enjoy direct access to creators like Nino Marino, behind the scenes content from THE CIRCLE magazine and VIP events.

COLLECTOR PROFILE YASIN AL H O S A N I

Thefounder theinternet’s premiercommunityofMontblancenthusiastsshares the origins of his own passion for the brand’s fine writing instruments. Join us for a conversation with the man behind the Montblanc Society.

Can you share the moment or experience that sparked the beginning of your journey as a collector?

From my childhood, quills and inkwells interested me. Within the context of Arabic poetry, calligraphy is essential, and the art of writing is well cherished in our educational systems. Along with books, these things instilled a love for writing instruments in me. The true spark started, however, when I first found a bottle of Parker Quink ink in a stationery store.

What is your preferred brand, and why does it draw you?

It is the nature of mankind to evolve from the simpler to the more complex and extraordinary. As far as the world of writing luxury goes, Montblanc is at the frontier. And to hold that place, a brand has to offer something unusual. They must create high artistry products that fulfill the desires of long-term collectors, who demand much more of the fine writing tools they acquire, more craftmanship and detail.

I do believe in writing with my pens, however, and I take care to spread that joy to all who are around me – be it with a simple pen or a very exclusive high artistry edition.

How has your collection evolved, and what do you look for in the writing instruments you collect?

My collection has undergone a huge turnover which, overall, may be a sign of progressive growth. Beginning with the younger me, with limited means to buy luxury pens, my collection became more serious as I, also, matured. For me, the qualities I look for in writing instruments are their function, first and foremost, followed by overall aesthetics, engineering and the beauty of their materials

You founded the MontblancSocietyon Facebook and Instagram, the premier online community of collectors who love the brand. How did this initiative come about?

Like all success stories, it has taken some time to reach our current level of professionalism and experience, presenting such a vast topic and important brand.

The Montblanc Society has been a successful chapter in my life, through which I can express a passion that forms the largest part of my life, outside of my professional work. It allows me to invite the world to experience a fine form of therapy, that of writing by hand.

“From my childhood, quills and inkwells interested me… Along with books, these things instilled a love for writing instruments in me.”

– Yasin Al Hosani, Founder of the Montblanc Society

INK

M O N T B L A N C

ELIXIR PARFUMEUR CINNAMON SCENT

Dragging our blade across the drafting paper we always use to photograph fine inks, something magical began to appear. As the ink dried, it began to form a pitted texture where the ink gathered on the otherwise smooth paper. Moving the ink around on the page, it ran fluidly, finding the slightest impression or crevice, then sinking in deeply with little pockets of deep saturation. Whether by design or by chance, Montblanc’s new Elixir Parfumeur Cinnamon Scent brown ink effectively mimicked cinnamon bark in ourtrial – perhaps an unsurprising feat of magic for an ink officially designated an ‘Elixir’.

Packaged in 50 ml square bottles, Montblanc’s premium Elixir line provides desk-worthy inkwells filled with pigment rich inks. Elevating the experience of uncapping a daily companion, or opening a favourite bottle of ink, the select Parfumeur inks in the brand’s collection have included earthy fragrances like lingering tobacco and leather. Filling the air with tasteful notes of the Eastern spice, Cinnamon Scent is as soothing to use as it is pleasing on the page. With pooling shades of warm, reddish brown, the ink behaves with surprising lightness. Although leaving no trace of cinnamon bark in writing samples on quality paper, Cinnamon Scent does deposit dark brown shadows in its wake.

Available online (www.montblanc.com) or through authorized retailers, Montblanc’s regular production, special edition and Elixir inks give you everything you need to make your mark on the world. We recommend adding some spice.

ByGuestContributor NickNeghină Editor-in-ChiefofInkstable

As the editor of a digital magazine specializing in fine writing instruments, I have the privilege of exploring some of the industry's most spectacular releases each year. And, while I remain fully devoted to the noble act of handwriting, I must admit that most of the time it is the design, intricate details or innovative features of a pen that catch my eye. This year, we at Inkstable have gathered the latest trends and innovations from our industry for the readers of THE CIRCLE magazine – from novelties like Otto Hutt's captivating collection of handmade inks, to an intriguing Montegrappa, fit for a spy.

Nothing gets us in the mood for writing more than our favourite ink Most often, it is colour and saturation that draw us back to a favourite shade, but, is there more to an ink than its colour? It turns out there is. With a forwardlooking and user-oriented vision, German penmaking house, Otto Hutt, has created an exquisite collection of scented inks in a comprehensive assortment of eighteen profiles. Enhancing the user experience by adding an extra sensory dimension to the act of writing, this collection was made available in time to be enjoyed during the 2023 summer season Incorporating fresh, nature-inspired scents such as neroli, Japanese peach or wild cherry, the collection likewise caters to those who prefer soothing notes of dark chocolate or caramel on a blustery winter’s night. Adding another edition to their portfolio of fine writing instruments, Graf von Faber-Castell marked 2023 with therelease of the Magnumin walnutwood. Reminiscent of the Bentley Ebony, this collection revisits a favourite material of the German penmaker, which has brought us a variety of elegant silhouettesand intricate marquetry in nature’s most pliable medium. The unique texture of the Caucasian walnut barrel contrasts with highly polished platinum elements to create an accessory that brings comfort to the frenetic pace of modern life. Sadly absent on many of the brand’s recent releases, the iconic two-toned 18-karat gold nib, adorned with the Graf von Faber-Castell family coat of arms, is always a pleasure to uncap In addition to the fountainpen, thecollection includes three other variants: rollerball, ballpoint pen and propelling pencil.

An homage to the craftsmanship and beauty of traditional Japanese lacquering techniques, the second release of the Sailor Iro-Miyabi adds four new colours to complement the range of the previous model line-up. Each pen in this collection is crafted using the Miyabi-nuri technique, in colours varying from the elegant brown of Bun-jin-cha, to the lapis-lazuli blue of Kon-ruri. The beauty of this technique lies in the unique and laborious process of using a silk cloth to apply additional layers of lacquer over a base color. For a touch of refinement, gold and silver powder is then added to the final design. Like the previous release, the new collection features a 21-karat gold nib, available in medium and broad.

With strong Itallian character, the new Ogiva Golden Age collection released by Maiora, opens a new chapter for the Naples-based brand. In addition to the collection’s classical shape – enhanced to become the design dubbed the ‘Ultra Ogiva’ – the collection’s vivid materials are highlighted with accents of gold powder. Giving the collection its name, ‘Golden Age’, this Itallianmade material ranges from the playful flow of the blue and yellow Wind edition, to the elegantly marbled brown of Earth. The signature of the Itallian brand, the edition is set with a cap band of .925 sterling silver, and is available with a gold or stainlesssteel #6 nib in EF, F, M, B, 1.1 mm Stub and Flex

Created to celebrate the 60th Anniversary of the first film in the James Bond series, Montegrappa’s 007 Spymaster Duo is like a veritable gadget plucked from the secret agent's collection of weapons. More than just a writing instrument, the 007 Spymaster Duo houses a false upper barrel containing a set of 007 cufflinks. Also included with this edition is the revolutionary ‘Swift-Shot’ filling mechanism, featuring refillablebrassbullet-inspired cartridges. Agreat additionto anycollection, or gift for the gentleman spy in your life, this unique edition is available now through authorized Montegrappa retailers.

Launching his eponymous brand in 2000, David Oscarson’s luxurious fountain pens have been the recipients of Robb Report’s annual Best of the Best and prestigious Readers’ Choice awards. From Fabergé inspired collections like the Henrik Wigstrom Trophy, to celebrations of historical figures like Jacques de Molay, each collection is a personal tribute to the art of writing.

“The biggest challenge today is helping people remember what a signature means, that it is an extension of one’s self,” says Oscarson. “Much is electronic today, including communication, but I always prefer talking on the phone to texting, and visiting in person to the telephone – old-fashioned, maybe, but much richer, and in my mind, much more rewarding.”

David Oscarson’s approach to the production of pens is equally analogue. Hand-rendered guilloché and quill applied enamel are emblematic of the brand Usually reserved for the jewellery or watchmaking industries, Oscarson takes great care in preserving the quality and purity of these art forms. Engraved from solid rods of sterling silver, David Oscarson’s editions are never stamped, but cut to reflect light through multiple layers of translucent hard enamel. Ground by hand with mortar and pestle, a paste of glass, water and metal oxides is hand applied and fired in a kiln, to form layers of molten glass.

“It is a painstaking multi-step process, requiring hours of grinding, applying, firing, filing and polishing, to cover the engraved body of the pen,” explains Oscarson. “My favorite part,” he shares, “is seeing an idea or concept become a real, ‘living’ thing.”

Guilloché

Hand-crafted from 18-karat gold and .925sterlingsilver,eachpreciousmetal component passes through multiple stages of precision engraving.

A finishing process often found in fine watchmaking, guilloché is a painstaking process of etching intricate patterns, which bring life and light to the surface of precious metals.

Hard Enamel

Using a mortar and pestle, a composition of glass, water and metal oxides is ground for hours by hand. When settled, the water is removed, leaving the fine paste that is the basis for hard enamel. A quill is then used to apply each coat of the mixture to the surface of the metal, ensuring that the entire guilloché area is completelycoveredinenamel. Thecomponents arethenfiredin akiln attemperatures exceeding 1,000° F, fusing the enamel to the metal and forming a layer of glass.

After cooling, the pieces are manually ground with a diamond file, restoring their proper shape and surface. This tedious process is repeated at length, until the level of enamel reaches the depth required to cover the peaks and fill the valleys of each intricate guilloché pattern. When the final stages of firing are completed, the pieces are polished and buffed, revealing the velvet finish of translucent hard enamel.

Production of translucent hard enamel demands the highest levels of patience, experience and skill. A five-year apprenticeship is required to ensure that the highest levels of quality will be met in each individual collection piece.

Overlay Work

Takingtheformoffigures,filigreeor the delicate ornamentation found on a Fabergé egg, finely crafted overlay work gives a three-dimensional depth, which transforms a writing instrument into a tactile sculpture.

Nib & Filling System

David Oscarson’s fine writing instruments accommodate a cartridge, converter or eyedropper, with a series of seals and “O” rings preventing ink from leaving the chamber at any point. A rollerball version of each David Oscarson edition is also available.

Engineered in Heidelberg, Germany, David Oscarson’s 18-karat gold nibs are unsurpassed in quality and form. Each nib is plated with rhodium and tipped with iridium to ensure durability in fine, medium and broad sizes.

H I G H HOROLOGY A

COLLECTOR’S GUIDE

Whetheryouaretimekeepingorscorekeeping,theseareourchoicesforsomeofthebest high horology releases of the year. Explore the horological landscape with models that everyone is talking about – and a few that collectors are keeping to themselves.

SALMON D I A L

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual

First launched in 2015, MB&F and independent Irish watchmaker, Stephen McDonnell, reinvented the perpetual calendar with a fully integrated 581-component calibre that has no module and no base movement Distinguished with a spectacular, suspended balance and dial-free display, the LM Perpetual is available this year in stainless-steel, with a rich salmon base-plate

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date

Inspired by retrograde displays from the 1920s and 1930s, the new addition tothePatrimonylinefeaturesa 42.5 mm950platinumcase with a salmon-coloured sunburst dial Powering retrograde date and day-of-the-week displays is manufacture self-winding movement calibre 2460 R31R7/3

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS

A reinterpretation of the St. Moritz, the first Swiss watch created in 1980 by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (now Co-President of Chopard) the 41 XPS is fitted with a 41 mm case in ultra-resistant, lightreflecting Lucent Steel A223. Beneath its salmon dial, ref. 2986233001 is distinguished by a chronometer-certified movement with industry leading finishing.

SPORTING ELEGANCE

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Born in 1931, the Reverso was one of the first wristwatches ever developed specifically for sport. And, unlike the sometimes generous claims of other brands, this watch is entirely designed, produced and assembled in-house. Where the front dial bears the hallmarks of the Reverso Tribute line, with baton hour markers and dauphine hands, turning the watch over reveals a chronograph with retrograde minutes and a second time display. Presented in both steel and pink gold, the steel case is complemented by a blue-grey ADL (atomic layer deposit) dial – a process in which ultra-thin layers of titanium oxide are deposited on the dial’s surface On display through the second dial, the new calibre 860 is a fully integrated column wheel chronograph with horizontal clutch and power reserve of 52 hours

Patek Philippe Calatrava

Employinga ‘graphic modern style’, PatekPhilippe introducesthree new references to the Calatrava line, featuring ebony black dials in three distinct finishes Centered around an embossed ‘carbon’ pattern on the Calatrava’s dial, the sporty lineup offers collectors the choice of three colour variations for the dial and strap: yellow (6007G-001), red (6007G-010) or sky blue (6007G-011).

The new references are fitted with a white-gold case housing the calibre 26-330 S C self-winding movement, with date and stopseconds function.

B E L L E JOURNE

Chronographe Rattrapante

Expanding F.P. Journe’s Linesport Collection, the Chronographe Rattrapante brings collectors a sporty, 44 mm case with integrated matching bracelet in 18-karat 6N gold, grade 5 titanium or PT950 platinum Boasting a power reserve of 80 hours, the calibre 1518 monopoussoir split second chronograph movement is able to operate its rattrapante chronograph function even after two days. The collection is also fitted with an inlaid ceramic tachymetric bezel, inspired by Journe’s 2017 Only Watch timepiece.

Élégante 48 mm Titalyt®

Dubbed an ‘electro-mechanical’ watch by the brand, the Élégante offers high autonomy with a motion detector that sets the watch to stand-by mode when not in use. Keeping the time while dormant, a microprocessor sets the correct time when the watch is again in motion. Now available for men, the new 48 mm Titanium Flat Tortue® case is coated with a Titalyt® treatment.

Divine Housing the calibre Octa 1300.3, the Divine’s off-centre 22-karat gold rotor is particularly calibrated for optimized winding. This added efficiency extends running time, with an already impressive power reserve of 5-days. The Divine also features small seconds, a large date, power reserve indicator and moon phase, and is available outside of F.P. Journe boutiques, at authorized retailers.

TONDA RISING

Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph

A part of our recent conversation with brand CEO, Guido Terreni, Parmigiani Fleurier’s calibre PF361 Split Seconds Chronograph brings a new design language to the world of skeletonized complications. Created to mark the brand’s 20th Anniversary, the new addition to the Tonda line is designed to measure intermediate (split) times. Activating the 1 o’clock pusher makes the two hands turn together. Pressing the 4 o'clock pusher stops the upper hand while the lower hand continues running. And, another press at 4 o'clock brings the two hands together, in a movement that led to the French term rattrapante (“to catch-up”) for this function.

Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon

Featuringa 42 mmplatinum case, platinummicro-rotor and Milano blue platinum dial, it is the flying tourbillon at 7 o'clock that sets this Tonda apart Finished to the highest fine watchmaking standards (beveling, circular-graining and Côtes de Genève), the reference PF517 movement measures a mere 3.4 mm thick.

Tonda PF Gregorian Annual Calendar

An annual calendar, this Tonda PF features a ‘precision moon phase’ which requires only one correction every 122 years. Crafted in solid rose gold against an aventurine glass sky, two moon lozenges depict the Moon as viewed from the Northern and Southern hemispheres

THE ART OF TIME

Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton

Jaquet Droz wanted their Dragon to be alive, and for this purpose enlisted Canadian artist, John Howe – the artistic designer for Peter Jackson's The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies. With a total of 9 animations, one of the most complex automaton watches ever designed animates in random sequences of undulating tail, opening and closing jaw, moving tongue, and a claw that grasps a rotating stone. Released in 2022, theDragon Automaton is available by custom order in a variety of case and dial materials (including a crystal case). Thelineallows for an infinite range of customizations, as Jaquet Droz now only produces made-to-order pieces for its discerning clientele.

OMEGA Olympic 1932 Chrono Chime

Paying tribute to the pocket chronographs used to time the 1932 Los Angeles Olympic Games – the debuted of OMEGA as Official Timekeeper – the Chrono Chime’s 1932 movement was developed over six years with sister company, Blancpain A Master Chronometer with integrated split-seconds function, the Chrono Chime distinguishes itself with the ability to herald elapsed times. Amplifying its sound, pitch-perfect, 18-karat Sedna™ gold gongs are affixed to the matching gold case Highlighting the Chrono Chime’s sonic acumen, a grand feu enamel dial, accented with .925 silver inner bezel and subdials, is guillochéd in OMEGA’s ‘exclusive acoustic waves’ pattern – an exact visual representation of the soundwaves produced by the watch’s chime.

SEASCAPE CITYSCAPE

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Editions

70 years after introducing the first modern diver's watch in 1953, Blancpain begins a year of celebration with a series of releases

Each limited to 70 pieces, the first edition is a 42 mm version in a nod to the original diver’s watch. The second edition released, named Tech Gombessa, celebrates the Gombessa project – a marine biology exploration and conservancy initiative. Fitted with a grade 23 titanium, 47 mm case, the Tech Gombessa is the first watch to measure up to three-hour-long ‘tech’ dives Linked to a unidirectional bezel with three-hour scale, the Tech Gombessa’s special dive timing hand completes one full turn in three hours

The watch is further distinguished from other models by centrally mounted lugs and a helium escape valve, which brings its waterresistant to 30 bar (approximately 300 metres)

Glashütte Original PanoInverse Limited Edition

With an uninterrupted history that began in 1845, Glashütte Original brings German watchmaking into the future with the new, 42 mm platinum PanoInverse Limited Edition

Running across laser-engraved, galvanic black rhodium skylines on the three-quarter plate and butterfly bridge, skyscraper canyons draw closer on the reverse, to reveal slogans as billboard ads. With its balance bridge and duplex swan-neck fine adjustment positioned on the dial side, the PanoInverse derives its name from a redesign that finds movement components mounted in inverse order. 50 pieces will be released.

IT’S COMPLICATED

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Light & Shade

Since the inaugural launch of the Laureato in 1975, Girard-Perregaux’s high horology sport watch has been an industry icon. With its new sapphire crystal case, the Laureato Absolute Light & Shade puts its skeletonized in-house calibre GP01800-1143 movement on display. Upholding Girard-Perregaux’s reputation for refined finishing, the open-worked barrel and gold oscillating weight give a view of the main plate and bridges, which incorporate sandblasting, traits-tirés, circular satin finishing and bevelling

Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton

Embodying the legacy that began in 1969, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton features an open-worked version of the high-frequency automatic El Primero calibre 3620 SK movement. With similar architecture to the El Primero 3600, this automatic manufacture movement derives its 1/10th of a second measurement directly from the escapement, which beats at 5Hz (36,000 VpH) Inspired by early DEFY models, the 41 mm stainless-steel case has sharply defined edges, and provides a water resistance of 10 ATM (100 metres).

Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum and Stainless-Steel

The GPHG award winning Grönograaf, made by the already legendary Dutch brothers, was released in 2022. A limited edition of 25 pieces in tantalum, the release sold out immediately, and is being followed by a stainless-steel edition of 188 pieces.

G O W I T H THE FLOW

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner

With its cushion-shaped case and fluid integrated bracelet, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Funky Blue 2.0 is an evolution of the first two chronographsreleased by H.Moser & Cie. A striking design, enhanced with a Funky Blue fumé dial, this automatic chronograph sports a central display and flyback function for minutes and seconds. Powered by chronograph calibre HMC 907, developed by partner company AGENHOR, the streamliner’s reverse is perhaps even more stunning than its dial. Featuring the traditional Moser stripes angled at 45°, anthracite grey rhodium-plating on the bridges and main plate give this calibre a highly contemporary aesthetic Placed between the movement and the dial, the oscillating weight has been uniquely positioned to allow an unimpeded view of the operation of the chronograph and its column wheel Even more remarkable, the Streamliner is rated water-resistant to 12 ATM, at which depth its chronograph function is still operable

Complementing the Streamliner range – named after the first high-speed trains of the 1920s and 1930s – H. Moser & Cie. has also launched the Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon Set apart with a fumé ‘Smoked Salmon’ dial, this more discrete Streamliner houses the brand’s HMC 200 automatic calibre, which is designed, developed and produced entirely in-house

C A R L F. BUCHERER THE

EVERYDAY CARRY

Want to bring your everyday carry up to date with a salmon dial, or add a sporty look to your repertoire without downgrading your style? Here are two high horology alternatives from independent watchmaker, Carl. F. Bucherer.

With so many harrowing tales of lost brands reviving their legacies, Carl F. Bucherer presents a refreshingly idyllic take on the history of Swiss watchmaking. Independent and family-owned since its founding in 1888, the historic Swiss watch manufacturer is currently led by thirdgeneration family member, Jörg G. Bucherer. Today, Carl F. Bucherer is a leader in peripheral technology, having patented a peripheral winding system, a floating tourbillon in a peripherally supported cage and a peripherally guided minute repeater regulator. Making the brand accessible at every level of the market, Bucherer’s collections offer hand-assembled production models, references designed and built entirely in-house, and even one-of-a-kind timepieces created by the brand’s individualization department, the CFB Mastery Lab.

For those looking to upgrade their everyday carry with a timepiece from a high horology house, Carl F. Bucherer’s Manero Peripheral brings together sporty appealwith the pedigree of trueSwisswatchmaking. ACOSC-certified chronometer, the Manero’s 40 mm stainless-steel case and hybrid rubber strap make it a flexible, go anywhere companion. Accented with a small seconds sub-dial, the collection is completed with circle brushed dials in discrete shades of blue, salmon, brown, green, silver white or black. Beneath the dial, the Manero is equipped with the manufacture calibre CFB A2050 movement, featuring the brand’s peripherally mounted automatic winding system. A modern hallmark of the historical Maison, the peripheral rotor operates bidirectionally, for added efficiency in recharging the calibre’s 55-hour power reserve.

This collection offers the wearability of a stainless-steel, COSC-certified chronometer, with the exclusivity of a brand that has remained under the radar For those ready to leave the mainstream behind in search of their own story, there is no better place to begin than with a brand that has been independent for 135 years.

Escaping the stereotypical ‘sport watch’ genre, Bucherer’s Manero Flyback unites the sporty aesthetic of a stainless-steel case and bracelet with refined touches like a double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating Bearing a classical two-toned chronograph look, the Flyback’s elegant, silvered dial is accented with green, blue or burgundy sub-dials

From downtown office to lakeside cottage, the Flyback is well proportioned for daily wear, with a 40 mm case providing a moderate water resistance of 3 ATM (30 metres) Walking the line between two worlds, the Manero Flyback shows its refined heritage with a tachymeter scale and flyback chronograph function, powered by automatic movement CFB 1973

For those more daring, the Carl F. Bucherer line-up also includes the Patravi sport and dive watch collection. And, building on the brand’s technical prowess, the limited edition Heritage collection features some of the brand’s higher complications, released to celebrate the Maison’s milestones and celebrate its skill.

At a time when new collectors are clamouring to fill their collections with the standard ‘must have’ models from well known brands, the stand-out choices for any growing collection are timepieces that represent the historic pedigree or current repertoire of a master watchmaker. With both an enviable history and a portfolio of modern innovations, Carl F. Bucherer is a brand that should be on the radar of all serious collectors.

For those interested in exploring Carl F. Bucherer timepieces, we recommendPalladioJewellers , as an authorized retailer offering an exceptional client care experience. Use the QR code to discover the “Palladio Edition” Heritage BiCompax Annual limited edition.

Limited to 25 pieces and featuring a striking, frosted silver dial with Lions Gate Green details, this co-branded edition was created to celebrate the 25th Anniversary of Vancouver’s landmark boutique. Tel: 1.604.685.3885

G U I D O TERRENI IN CONVERSATION

THE CIRCLE magazine’s Editor-in-Chief sits down with the legendary Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, totalkaboutthe brand he is revitalizing and the language of luxury

You have spoken about ‘private luxury’, can you share with us the private luxury model, as you are applying it to Parmigiani Fleurier?

Of course, that’s the reason for which I joined the brand. Because I think we are living in an interesting time in luxury. Over all, there is a homologation in the tastes, if you go mainstream It is similar to what happened to cars in the 1950’ s, a lot of brands shrank and everyone began buying the usual suspects. And this trend of going more mainstream has naturally developed a counter trend of personal choices. That’s why the independent brands, not only in watchmaking but in other categories as well, are enjoying a great momentum – if they know what they stand for. The reason to be must be clear. But, you are dealing with a public which is narrow, because you are trying to be deeper, and you are trying to be more profound. You must also have the prestige Parmigiani is a very prestigious brand, because Michel Parmigiani, the founder, is a living legend of restoration. But, the interesting thing with Michel is that this huge knowledge that he has is coupled with an absence of ego, because, when you are restoring you have to give birth a second time to someone else’s work. So, you have all that knowledge, but you have to disappear in your work, which is something quite breathtaking. It’s not natural. So that’s where the understatement of the brand comes from.

What we have done since my arrival in 2021 is to define these values in a timepiece of today. This goes with society, because society is also about evolving. You cannot be stuck in what you used to be, but you have to keep the same values that you had before. That’s the reason for which I took the logo ‘Parmigiani Fleurier’ off the dial, because that’s an ostentatious part of the watch. Everybody knows what they bought, you don’t have to write it. There are ways to convey the brand that are more subtle. This dial that we have designed is a style that is not ostentatious, because of the values of the brand, but it is extremely rich in details. Like the guilloché It is an old-fashioned technique, it’ s something that goes back to the 19th century. So we actualized it, we made it contemporary by miniaturizing it and making it become a texture. And even the choice of the colours, we never use flashy colours. We use colours that are subtle, not obvious, but that are inspired by a palette of colours that Swiss architect le Corbusier studied in 1931. He applied it to homes, because when you live in your home the colours of your house impact your mood. There are exciting colours like red, and there are more discrete, relaxing colours that can be toned down. So, his palette of colours is very much what we think a palette should be. Of course, wedon’tcopythe colours,butwehavethemactualized in a taste that is peculiar to today. Even this tone of blue has some grey in it (showing his Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante)

“…Society is also about evolving. You cannot be stuck in what you used to be, but you have to keep the same values that you had before.”

– Guido Terreni, CEO, Parmigiani Fleurier

This touches on something you refer to as ‘sartorial elements’. What have you drawn from the sartorial world, and how do you translate these elements into the language of watch design?

First of all, when I’m talking about ‘sartorial’ it is a word that summarizes an attention to details that is not for everyone. You have to be educated to that. It’s knowing the difference between an aprêt-à-porter and a tailor-made suite. When you look at a suit and then you touch it, you have an even higher pleasure, it’s a sensorial experience. And there are different elements that you can look at, on the watch. First is comfort. How do you design a comfortable watch? First of all, the case, the weight has to stay on the wrist. It shouldn’t move around. So, all our watches have an indentation on the case back that puts distance between your wrist and the crown and lugs, so your skin is touching the glass. So, the weight of the case is taken by the glass – like a suit on the shoulders. Then the bracelet Why am I obsessed with flexible bracelets? If a bracelet is not able to do this (folding the bracelet over) and it’s designed by a designer for an average wrist, there is always a moment when your bracelet has to do this (folding the bracelet over) when you are wearing it – because you move, you interact with the watch. So, this is another element. There is the level of finishing. Look at the brushing. You almost don’t see the brushing it is so light that you don’t see the lines. It’s almost like a silky effect.

In terms of the guilloché, this is a technique that gives us a texture on the dial. Everybody wants a plain dial, today. But plain can be dull. So, how can you do something plain but have that touch, that finishing of something rich? Like when you touch the fabric of your suit and find out that its 170 grams. It’s by doing it almost invisibly. From a distance it seems almost like a simple, plain dial, but it’s not.

Then, the bezel is in platinum. Why platinum, not steel? You don’t see it. But you do see it. It’s slightly whiter, it’s softer when you polish it by hand, and you don’t have that edginess of the steel And so, the knurled bezel is more pleasurable to touch When it is in steel, it is a bit more abrasive.

Some of these elements are more like elements of jewellery making. How have you drawn from your time at Bvlgary, and how has jewellery making influenced your approach to watchmaking?

I will tell you something that is probably not very well known, but the details of watchmaking are much more difficult than those of jewellery making. I mean, the level of attention to detail that you have in watchmaking is something you do not have in jewellery I shouldn’t be saying this, because I don’t like to look down on something, but the precision of what a case has to be, what a bracelet has to be, on a jewel the tolerances are much, much wider. Remember, when I was at Bvlgari, we used a technique of putting jewellery on the case of a certain watch It was a nightmare, because the specs that we asked for as the watchmaking division were very severe for the jeweller’s way of doing things. When you’re using the lost wax process, you cannot be precise at 2 or 3 microns, which is the tolerance of a watchmaker. But what you are highlighting is how an object stays on you. If you think of a necklace, the necklace has to drop from gravity, so the way that you build a necklace has to be flexible. If you look at pocket watches from history, they had a chain that had to be extremely soft.

Moving from the case to the movement design, some of the top watchmakers in the world, like F.P. Journe and A. Lange & Söhne, have differentiated themselves by their movement

design. Likewise, the real collectors are not just going for market value, they are seeking an artistic touch that they cannot get from any other watchmaker. It appears you are do this at Parmigiani Fleurier, with the introduction of your split-second movement, in particular. Does this signal the future of Parmigiani Fleurier movement design? Is this a design language you are planning to evolve in more of your lineup?

I think it is a very important element of the prestige of the brand And for sure, movements, the way you decorate movements and the materials that you use, provide a phenomenal opportunity for a brand like this to go in that direction.

polishing all around this case, and you have this element here, this millimetre which is polished, and this is brushed and this is brushed (indicating either side), this means that this lug has to be manufactured separately from the body and has to then be attached afterwards. This operation costs as much as the steel case of a very important brand. Just this operation. So, these are things you don’t notice, but the client who does, does notice it.

The purity of the idea is at the beginning of everything. If my idea is pure, then my execution will be pure, and the pleasure will be pure. And my client will be truly in love with what we are doing.

It's like your seal, your logo, the fact that it was used for government purposes gives it a gravitas that you don’t have to explain to people But there is an impression. There is an impression of that original purpose that goes with it, like a coat of arms.

Exactly. But, before it was hidden, it was on the oscillating mass, it was on the crown, you didn’t see it. By putting it in a protagonist position at twelve o’clock, that is a statement of brand identity. That tension you have in the lines of the case, this chamfer that you have on the lug, you don’t even see it. But, it’s a degressive chamfer that starts wider and goes thinner up to here (indicating the movement of the line toward the case). It’s soft when you touch it. It costs money to do that. If you go and do the

Even more than complications, the beauty of a movement and the uniqueness of the design draw people into a brand – which ties into the ‘private luxury’ model. This model tends to have an outer court, which draws new clients, and an inner court or inner sanctum, that rewards collectors with something unique. What will the inner sanctum of the Parmigiani Fleurier model line-up be, in the future?

You talk about exclusivity, but to me exclusivity is not enough. It’s even more than exclusivity, it’s exclusivity with an education. Because, anyone can do a unique piece. I have only one, and you have the rich guy who comes and buys it. Anyone can spend five million on one watch full of diamonds. That’s not luxury to me. To me, luxury is not about the ostentation. Luxury is not about how much money I have, that’s vulgar. To me luxury is about excellence, it’s about evolving excellence. And evolving excellence with taste is something that you need an educated customer to understand. That’s why I say it’s private, because we are not about red carpets, we are not about the showy way of doing things. True luxury is private.

If you think of Eyes Wide Shut, everybody wanted to be in that party – apart from what was happening at that party, which is another story. But it is something so discrete that it is almost invisible.

And that becomes an expression which is for people who can access that level of sensitivity. That’s why I always say that our customers do not care about what people think about what they are wearing. But it’s not really true, because you do care. If someone recognizes that you have a Parmigiani on your wrist, you are friends. You start talking about watchmaking on another level. So, you do care – but not about everybody, about an inner circle of people who have that style and that sensitivity.

I was introduced to Parmigiani Fleurier through Robb Report in the 1990’s, when you started. In those days it was the Kalpa, with those beautiful, sculpted lugs. So, I would like to ask, what is the future of the Kalpa, and are you planning to make it the crown jewel it once was?

That’s the big question that we have in front of us, as a discussion within the brand. And I think that what the brand needed was a star collection that would redefine what the brand is today, and that was the Tonda PF. You cannot do things too quickly in watchmaking, because it’s not a frequent purchase,

and the public needs to understand what you are doing. If you do too many things too quickly you create confusion, so we have to have the discipline to work within the time that is appropriate We have also the Toric, which is a beautiful, classic watch, that is round with a knurled bezel. It is a little old fashioned, so we can work on that. The Toric and Kalpa are two patrimonies of the brand that for sure we can evolve, but we cannot do everything at the same time. So, it will probably take years before you will see a new Kalpa.

Speaking of the Toric, you seem to have a royal client in H.M. King Charles III, who has brought this model recent notoriety Do you have a connection to him, as a brand?

He bought the watch at Klosters in the early 2000’s, so he is a client of the brand for many years. He serviced the watch two years ago. Our clients don’t buy a watch because a celebrity is under contract with a brand, nobody believes in that story at this level of knowledge and luxury. So, to me, King Charles is a client of the brand, and that’s who we serve.

For those interested in exploring Parmigiani Fleurier timepieces, we recommend Palladio Jewellers , as an authorized retailer offering an exceptional client care experience. Use the QR code to discover the co-branded “Palladio Edition” Tonda GT limited edition, celebrating the 25th Anniversary of Vancouver’s landmark boutique Tel: 1 604.685 3885

“Our clients don’t buy a watch because a celebrity is under contract with a brand…

So, to me, King Charles is a client of the brand, and that’s who we serve.”

– Guido Terreni, CEO, Parmigiani Fleurier

WHAT’S ON YOUR WRIST?

D A V I D OSCARSON

David, you are known for your handmade sterling silver writing instruments, and are arguably one of the world’s top penmakers. What timepiece do you wear from day to day?

For the past decade, I have enjoyed wearing my Glashütte Original Senator Calendar, witha brown alligator leather strap – love it!

What drew you to this particular model?

It was love at first sight. I love the big date box on the dial I use my watch for the date quite often, and at 56, the date is easy for me to see without my readers! Balance, beauty and simplicity all rolled into one – it was perfect.

Would you call yourself a ‘watch collector’?

I’m not a watch collector, but our writing instruments tend to accompany fine timepieces, both in retail stores and within collections.

Most of our pen collectors are also savvy watch experts, who appreciate our attention to detail. Many of our trademark techniques come from the watch industry – like hand engraved guilloché and hard enamel – and we often showcase our collections at events where watches are the primary focus.

Your creations can be found in some of the best boutiques in North America, and there is nothing like experiencing them in person. Where did you first encounter the Glashütte Original Senator, and is there a story behind it?

I was with Barbara Simonian at Westime, in Los Angeles, when I first saw and acquired my beloved Senator. Since then, I’ve had regular maintenance performed by our friends at Manfredi Jewels in Greenwich, Connecticut. It’s always a delight to see the Glashütte Original collection on display, as I frequent our shared authorized retailers of fine watches and jewelry

My Senator is a beautiful companion to all of the pens in our collections, and after so many years, I still love that brown leather alligator strap!

STEFANO R I C C I

T H E U L T I M A T E 2023 LOOKBO OK

Superlativesartorialoutfitter,StefanoRicci,revealsqualityforward, casual elegance as a driving force for 2023. Find the style that suits your life, and be the man who commands the moment.

Amode of expression that entrains circumstance, fashion has long been the way men convey their intentions and station in life. Few rise above to captivate a room, or make a first impression last forever, but those who do know that the art of commanding the moment requires a mastery of the timeless.

Long before any man enters a room, the sartorial masters at Stefano Ricci source choice materials, select unmatched palates and sculpt designs that enhance and make art of the motions of daily life. Known best for its business attire and silkblend formal wear, Stefano Ricci is taking cues from the high fashion of bespoke menswear, and crafting an aesthetic that matches the mood of 2023.

Whether working remotely from the Amalfi Coast, or returning to the norms of an active life, casual elegance becomes show-stealing style with sophisticated fabrics and subtle hues Unique fabric blends that combine wool, cashmere, silk and linen weave a style that is light, breathable and fluid in motion. Free-fitting and deconstructed for casual days out, or dramatically tailored for formal affairs, 2023 brings the best of the sartorial world to the everyday moments of an elegant life.

Cateringto thosewitha penchantforthetraditional, StefanoRicci alsooffers a bespoke service, with master tailors visiting boutiques during annual ‘trunk shows’. Having their measurements taken, and offered a wide selection of fabrics, clients are walked through the time-honoured process of bespoke tailoring in the Itallian style. Those interested in having custom garments made should inquire with their local boutique about this year’s event

We all know that the secret of appearing spontaneously stylish is preparation, and the best preparation is finding a good tailor. Prepare for the moment that will change the rest of your life by adding one stand-out look to your wardrobe this year. And, when your moment comes, put art into motion to make time stand still.

Discover the curated world of Stefano Ricci , with fashion and accessories for men and for home Use the QR code to locate a boutique near you, and explore the possibilities of bespoke Itallian tailoring at a Stefano Ricci trunk show

THE DEVIL WEARS FERRAGAMO

Whether dominating in business or living your best life, THE CIRCLE magazine’s Editor-in-Chief shows how to elevate your wardrobe with sartorial appointments that stand out from the crowd.

s Editor-in-Chief of THE CIRCLE magazine, photoshoots are sometimes a perk of the job. Trying to escape the mundane with your own magazine style? I analyze the look from my interview with the CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, and give my tips for a style that stands out in a sea of uniformity:

[1] Distinguish your look with sport jackets that give you the flexibility to mix and match. Add bold patterns to a suite that would otherwise overpower with a quality jacket – like this silk-wool blend Itallian fabric, double-breasted sport jacket, from Brooks Brothers. www.brooksbrothers.com

[2] Learn to tie a great knot. Whatever your style, nothing takes away from a fantastic suit like a sloppy tie. A perfect knot with a dimple, or without, shows that your look was not an accident. www.brooksbrothers.com

[3] Take every opportunity to add your own flourish. The pocket square is one flamboyancy afforded to men in the post-modern world. For the finest silk pocket squares and accessories for men, we recommend Stefano Ricci. www.stefanoricci.com

[4] Only the best will do for a statement piece. Add a shawl to a suit to command the room with a gentile touch – just make sure it fits the part. Silk or cashmere from Stefano Ricci is all we would put over a great suit. www.stefanoricci.com

[5] Nothing matters as much as what you put on your face. Like a watch or pen, your glasses or sunglasses speak volumes about you. For a timeless look, we chose the Traditionals rimless frames from Focusers.com. Ordered online, and delivered to your door, Focusers is a convenient way to change your look. www.focusers.com

[6] Put your best foot forward with exceptional footwear. If there is one piece of advice I would offer those just entering the sartorial world, it is this: Buy your clothes from a tailor and your shoes from a shoemaker. Shoes from a fashion house do not impress, and probably will not last. Our choice for ready to wear quality, comfort and style is a loafer or oxford from legendary Itallian shoemaking house, Salvatore Ferragamo. www.ferragamo.com

T R E N D HUNTING

HORN ACCESSORIES

Oneofnature’smostnoblematerials, hornaddsadistinguishedtouchto any man’s wardrobe or selection of daily grooming essentials. Find out where to get this year’s best handmade horn accessories.

Nothing sets the tone for your day like your morning grooming ritual. The touch and scent of quality products elevate and inspire, and one of the first things you touch every day is a comb – so why begin your day with plastic? Soft to the touch and strong in appearance, a comb made from horn is the height of luxury in a post ivory or tortoiseshell world. Established in 1805, Truefitt & Hill have been royal hairdressers and purveyours of grooming essentials to the good and the great for over 200 years. With a selection of handmade horn combs for every need or use, we recommend the world’s most storied brand for the gentleman of good taste. (www.truefittandhill.com)

The perfect pocket companion, a black oxhorn shoe horn will add ease to your routine and will save your shoes. These practical accessories are available from Truefitt & Hill, as-well-as the modern-day guru of ‘quality, craftsmanship and tradition’, Kirby Allison. We highly recommend visiting Allison’s treasure-filled webstore, to explore his impressive range of carefully sourced accoutrements One of our favourites are the horn collar stays, available in a variety of sizes to accommodate every style of shirt. Unnoticed by others, but sublime to the touch, horn collar stays are the ultimate in discretion for the man who dresses for his own satisfaction.

(www.kirbyallison.com)

Searching for the perfect pocket comb? We found it – but there’s a catch. Technically listed as an ‘equestrian comb’, Hermès’ irresistible horn comb is made in France and indistinguishable from the human variety. Paired with a handmade leather case available in several colours, we can divulge that this daily companion has been snapped up by fans of the brand, and is well suited for any mane.

(www.hermes.com)

For the knife-carrying gentleman, there is no statement of elegance like the classical folding pocket knife of Laguiole, France. Available from a variety of knife makers in the region, we like the craftsmanship of Forge de Laguiole. Carry it with you, or add charm to a place setting with the light horn table knife variant of the portable classic. (www.forge-de-laguiole.com)

Prepare for your day in the bustling city, or equip yourself for the wilderness, with therefinement of nature’s wildest material. And, if we catch you at theclubwith an equestrian grooming tool, don’t worry, we won’t tell.

SKIN DEEP

MOLECULAR COSMETICS

Acclaimed as a leader in next generation skin care, we report on our own experiences with the molecular cosmetics of Dr. Barbara Sturm. From millionaire clean to billionaire glow, we share our favourite routines for the skin savvy man.

From the Düsseldorf laboratory of anti-inflammation specialist to the stars, Dr. Barbara Sturm, have come the next generation of molecular cosmetics But, with so many products already on the market, do Dr. Sturm’s ‘molecular cosmetics’ merit the hype? After almost a year of testing, we bring you our independent reviews, and top seven products for your skincare routine.

Beginning almost any routine, the therapeutically abrasive Enzyme Cleanser with vitamin C exfoliates with a gentle tingle. After a cleansing wash, we recommend a nourishing treatment of The Good C serum Revitalizing with the acidic bite of vitamin C, The Good C rejuvenates skin with extracts of aloe and apricot kernel oil.

Remarkably effective on blemished or problematic areas, The Better B serum produced noticeable effects in our trials, in only one day. Enriched with niacinamide, apricot kernel oil and fermented radish root extract, this serum is a must in any skincare arsenal. For more serious blemishes, the Dr. Barbara Sturm line-up offers the tea tree leaf oil-based Clarifying Spot Treatment, as-well-as a range of clarifying skincare products.

Worth its weight in gold, it was Dr. Sturm’s Super Anti-Aging face cream that impressed us the most. In our trials, a single light application took effect in only one day, with results that lasted weeks. This fountain of youth restores with the power of shea butter, lecithin, avocado oil, fermented radish root extract and plankton. Finishing our favourite routine with a billionaire’s glow, we swear by Dr. Sturm’s Brightening face cream. Nothing prepares you to step into another day of your best life like a luxurious layer of meadowfoam seed oil, ginseng root extract and the pearlescent glow of titanium dioxide.

Not to be missed, Dr. Barbara Sturm has recently expanded her range of highquality cosmetics with a line of haircare products – like the Anti-Hair Fall shampoo that nourishes the scalp and fortifies hair with extracts of Peruvian carob fruit pod, larch wood, sunflower seed sprout and camelia leaf.

Used by us, and found deserving of its acclaim, we recommend Dr. Barbara Sturm’s products for anyone taking the plunge into theworld of molecular cosmetics. Although we may joke privately about what unholy ingredients are really in these products, with results like these, we’re not asking questions.

Founded in 1889, the Vancouver Club was created with the purpose of providing members and guests with a sanctuary of refinement in the heart of the city. Today, members and staff endeavour to honour the traditions of the club’s rich history, while moving together toward an exciting, bright future.

Community remains at the heart of our member experience, with year-round social gatherings designed to facilitate interaction and build meaningful relationships. From annual black-tie galas and cherished family events, to networking opportunities and informative workshops, the club's calendarisfull of occasionsforcelebrating, connecting and learning.

A seasonal highlight is the Vancouver Club’s signature ‘Dinner on the Deck’ series, held on the Rooftop Patio amid the club’s lush Chef’s Garden of herbs and garnishes Overlooking picturesque Coal Harbour, with its dramatic mountain backdrop, members and their special guests share an indulgent meal created by Executive Chef Matthew Taylor Only the finest wines are chosen from the Vancouver Club’s legendary cellars by Wine & Beverage Director, Randy Chafe. World-class quality and warm hospitality ensure that each course and every glass is served in Vancouver Club style Year-round, members clink glasses of club label Champagne at the glamorous Gold Bar, and savour menus that highlight the best West Coast and global flavours in the Grill’s storied dining room.

The Captain’s Bar, where sea captains would share a meal and a dram while overlooking their boats early in the club’s history, remains an intimate refuge for members, today. Boasting one of the club’s most unique features, The Captain’s Bar contains private liquor lockers, which date back to 1929. Members can curate their personal collection of rare and luxury spirits from the club’s cellar, to enjoy and to share. Highlighting the heritage of the club, there are, to this day, a number of legacy lockers that have been passed down through subsequent generations of club members

For members who wish to dive deep into the world of fine wine and spirits, the club’s team of expert sommeliers offer a variety of educational tastings, access to shop the extensive cellars and exclusive travel experiences. Take a private jet to the Okanagan for an idyllic day of wine tasting; visit Maison Rémy Martin in France, to sample exquisite Cognacs; or tour and taste Portugal with Leagh Barkley, Canada’s reigning Master of Port and our very own Director of Restaurants & Bars. Cultivating deep, collaborative relationships with iconic producers around the world, the Vancouver Club’s sommeliers both select and create exceptional wines and spirits to be labelled under the prestigious VC brand. A wide-ranging collection of VC private label bottlings and exclusive vintages, not available to the public, make the perfect addition to any personal cellar This level of curation, in every aspect of club life, ensures a member experience that is second to none.

TheVancouverClub is located at 915 West Hastings Street, in Vancouver’s prestigious financial district. Conveniently situated in downtown, and just steps from the city’s beautiful waterfront, the Vancouver Club is an ideal hub for social and business gatherings. For membership or other inquiries, contact the club’s front desk. Tel: 604 685 9321

Photo Credit : Caleigh Kats

A Day in the Life

At

The Vancouver Club

6:30 AM Arrive at the club and make your way to the Fitness Centre, greeted by VC personal trainers. Full of tips and tricks, they are delighted to work with members one-on-one or in group fitness classes. After your workout, it’s off to the steam room for some relaxation, and perhaps some enlightening conversation with fellow members.

8:30AM Visit the 4th Floor Coworking Space, where an impeccably dressed server awaits you with a freshly brewed coffee and today’s newspaper: the perfect beginning to your workday. Get a headstart on your emails and print some documents in preparation for today’s lunch meeting.

10:00 AM Time for a break. And where better to relax than the Rooftop Garden, where you can enjoy a light bite and a smoothie, overlooking downtown – a refreshing pause before returning to your desk.

10:15 AM Back in the Coworking Space, your Zoom conference call is set up and ready to go in your reserved, private anteroom.

12:00 PM Take the elevator down to the Grill, where you’re swiftly guided to your preferred table. There, your favourite glass of wine or cocktail is waiting. Once your clients have arrived, enjoy exceptional service from the VC team of experts. Whether your preference is plant-based cuisine, Pemberton Valley AAA steak, or anything in between, the club has you covered. The extensive cellar offers a selection of wines from around the world, ready to be paired perfectly with your meal. The Grill’s elegant ambience adds a degree of occasion to your luncheon, and you can always count on your guests being impressed.

1:30 PM Retire to one of the private meeting rooms to review a contract with your guests – a convenient minute’s travel from the Grill, all under one roof. A round of post-lunch espressos and biscotti are served in your meeting room (so you can stay on schedule, naturally).

2:30 PM Return to the Coworking Space to catch up on the last of the day’s work before exploring beautiful Vancouver with the Cycle Club.

3:30 PM You and fellow members of the Cycle Club suit up in your VC gear and head out for a ride to the top of Grouse Mountain. There, you discuss the upcoming cycle trip in the South of France.

6:00 PM Bid adieu to the Cycle Club, who are on their way to the Rooftop Patio for a gourmet burger and beer, while you suit up to meet your partner for a dinner date.

6:30 PM Your evening together begins at the Gold Bar, with bespoke cocktails crafted by the talented bar manager. When your table is ready, you’re seated in the airy Atrium, and are served a stunning four-course chef’s tasting menu paired with rare wines.

8:30 PM You arrive at the Captain’s Bar to enjoy some of the city’s best live music. Warmly greeted by the service team, the keys to your own private liquor locker are selected, as they retrieve your personal collection of spirits. Seated at the famous roundtable, you savour each sip while being regaled with stories of the club members’ exclusive trip to Scotland Having visited the famous distilleries of the north, you reminisce about how the club even managed to squeeze you in for a round of golf at St. Andrews.

THE QUEST FOR THE IDEAL BALKAN

ByGuestContributor JanA.Fishman

From Hollywood to London to the Pacific Northwest, pipe and tobacco connoisseur, Jan A. Fishman, chronicles his quest to find the perfect Balkan blend pipe tobacco – that is, if anyone can define a true Balkan blend.

t was over coffee at a Montblanc event that my friend, the THE CIRCLE magazine’s Editor-in-Chief, asked me to recommend a pipe tobacco for his new Savinelli. “I love Balkan blends, ” I glibly responded. But when he asked me what constituted a Balkan blend, I ran into trouble. As Chuck Stanion wrote in his excellent article, The Mystery of Balkan Blends: “Balkan blends have changed in meaning, defying universally accepted definitions.” 1

Most pipe smokers agree that Balkan blends are those resembling ‘Balkan Sobranie’, the legendary smoking mixture first blended in London by Albert Weinberg During the late 19th century, Balkan Sobranie was marketed as the definition of luxury within the tobacco industry, with Weinberg going on to become the official provider of tobacco to European royal courts in the United Kingdom, Spain, Romania, Russia and Greece

As a general rule, all Balkan blends incorporate some variation of Virginia tobacco, combined with smoke-cured Latakia and sun-cured, highly aromatic ‘Oriental’ tobacco. Although the recipes of tobacco blenders are closely guarded secrets, these three tobaccos are always present in any Balkan blend – in varying proportions, and with the possible addition of other varieties.

My first true Balkan blend was a gift from a friend, who made a pilgrimage to the legendary Beverly Hills tobacco shop, founded by tobacconist to the stars, Allen Kramer Opened in 1949, and closed in 2017, the shop was still being run by Kramer’s daughter when he visited 1

Kramer became famous by blending custom pipe tobaccos for an exclusive Beverly Hills clientele. Later, he marketed those blends under the name of the person forwhomthey wereblended – Danny Kayeand Cary Grant being the most famous. He was one day asked to make a blend for regular client and priest to the Church of the Good Shepherd, Father Dempsey. It was said the priest favoured a certain Dunhill blend, and the story goes that Kramer spread the blend over his counter, dissecting it component by component. An expert tobacconist, Kramer determined the individual leaves in the blend. He then made a series of small samples for the priest, who would smoke each one and provide feedback for the next run. After several attempts, Father Dempsey reputedly cried out, “Allen, stop right there. This is better than anything I've ever had from Dunhill. This is what I want to smoke!”

A rich ochre colour, the blend exhibits generous amounts of luscious dark and near-black ribbons of Oriental and Latakia tobaccos. The cut is a somewhat course ribbon, dotted with larger, rustic pieces of tobacco. Marked by a jammy sweetness, Father Dempsey bears a faint, yet complex, aromatic element, that lingers in the background of its profile Its smoky Latakia is dominant, but not overpowering. The Oriental sits just behind, with a fragrant, slightly floral character, that prevents the Latakia from monopolizing the profile. And finally, a sweet grassiness from the Virginia emerges, but is not anywhere as present as the other two components. The rich and flavourful smoke is indulgent, almost decadent, providing a wonderful, full-bodied experience.

Stanion, Chuck. (March 26, 2021). The Mystery of Balkan Blends smokingpipes.com

In vivid contrast with the conspicuous glamour of Allen Kramer’s Hollywood, I then journeyed to England, to visit one of the United Kingdom’s oldest and finest tobacconists. Formed during the reign of Queen Victoria, and initially catering to the opera crowd, Mullins and Westley quickly gained a reputation for their fine quality pipe tobacco, cigars and snuffs. Although carrying a variety of commercial blends, Mullins and Westley are perhaps best known for their custom blends of premium pipe tobacco I opted to try the mixture they simply call, the ‘Balkan Blend’

On first examination, the blend has a distinct reddish tinge – most likely indicating the addition of red Virginia tobacco. The nose is both intensely floral and delicate, with a background smokiness from the Latakia’s heat curing process. The cut is a fine and consistent ribbon, with precisely selected components culminating in a very sophisticated blend. On smoking Mullins and Westley’s Balkan Blend, the floral element of the Oriental tobacco is certainly its forward note. At first, I was not sure that I liked it. Not at all unpleasant, the British blend compares to other varieties like a fine French Brut to a Napa Valley Chardonnay. Not the grand sensory experience I had come to expect from a Balkan. By the third bowl, however, I came to appreciate the complexity of this blend Though lacking the jammy richness of its American cousin, the Balkan Blend never-the-less excels in delicacy and nuanced balance. Returning home, I sought to complete my Balkan adventure with a visit to a local pipe and cigar

shop. City Cigar Emporium, made famous by patrons like Arnold Schwarzenegger, Pierce Brosnan and Sylvester Stallone, is a West Coast institution. Blended by Canadian pipe maker and tobacco importer, Brigham, City Cigar’s Burrard Balkan blend – named after the inlet in which Vancouver’s famous harbour is located – is described as, “A classic Balkan mixture of Latakia, Orientals, Lemon and Red Virginias.” Ribbon cut, and much finer than Father Dempsey, the Burrard Balkan’s appearance gives away its British influence. While shot through with darker threads of Latakia, the overall colour is lighterthan the othertwo blends, and likely contains a higher proportion of Virginias. A clue to where this blend falls between its old and new world counterparts, the high natural sugar content of the Virginias influences the overall flavour profile, while its nose exhibits a floral, rather than jammy bouquet, with distinct notes of citrus.

On the palate, a distinctly sweet, grassy quality emerges from the quality Virginias. As the bowl progresses, the Latakia adds a pleasant campfire quality, and the whole culminates with a complexity that would appeal to a more seasoned pipe smoker

Tracing my humble foray into this family of blends, each of these varieties appeals to me in a different way – with the pleasure of this journey remaining in the discovery. A quest as idiosyncratic as theindividualwho embarkson it, and a road asdiverse as the landscapes of tradition through which it has passed, the hunt forthe perfect Balkan blend is at once as illusory and concrete as tradition, itself. And so, the hunt continues – and may it never end.

THE LAST WORD JOURNEYS

Reflectingonjourneysofdistanceanddepth.

As a young man, I spent countless hours sitting at my desk in philosophical pursuits Reading, researching and writing maxims, this place was my sanctuary. Striking back at John le Carré’s, “A desk is a dangerous place from which to view the world,” I put fountain pen to paper, writing, “I have made a journey, not of distance, but of depth.” However, sitting at dinner one evening with the former Confidential Secretary to the Philippine Minister of Defense, and friend of Imelda Marcos, I was given an insight into the world of diplomacy that would change the course of my life, forever. With impeccable manners, this elegant woman told stories of flying around the world in the private planes of her childhood friends, and described how she met world leaders while travelling abroad: “You have to go to another country, and there you meet these people.”

It was years later that I would find myself on an expedition that would lead me from Vancouver to the Southernmost point of the Americas. Joining success guru, Peter Lowe, to explore Argentina’s Patagonia, we made ourway down the Beagle Channel to the natural habitat of wild penguins. It was a trip that took three planes, a van and what may have been a badly unrestored Chevrolet, to talk in person with a man who had been friends with Presidents, Prime Ministers and captains of industry. Having gleaned the experience and advice of greats like Presidents from Reagan to Clinton, Peter was

famously sought out by business leaders for his council. This was the time to pass on that experience to a young man beginning his journey.

Walking down a broken sidewalk in a remote town on the rugged Atlantic coast, Peter described that within us we carry the seeds of our accomplishments, the person we will be in our future He summed this up with, “You are what you are before you do what you do.”

I would spend the following years making the most difficult passages of my life – not realizing that I had already found my answer. It was long before I had ever left my sanctuary, that I was drawn to publishing, advertising and the world of luxury brands From high artistry creations, to the inner world of boutiques, this was a landscape I had spent my youth traversing.

In those days, collecting was a private act of reflection, adding pieces to a legacy of carefully curated taste Today, in a world where ‘luxury is choice’, and the choices offered are always changing, these private paths have become mainstream The pinnacle of luxury, however, remains those brands distinguished by their sense of permanence. And we, who have made long journeys, still retreat to our sanctuaries to find the greatest truth of all: An unyieldingly familiar authenticity, which guides us through all ages.

JD Banck Publisher