Welcome to the new edition of
an insider’s look into the world of everything cheese and dairy
Well, we made it made for a 2nd edition! Thank you for all the positive feedback about our launch edition and for helping us spread the word by telling your friends and family. The power of social media and its viral potential has helped us build a readership of “cheese lovers” and industry leaders, which exceeded our initial expectations.
We’d love to her your feedback and if you have any ideas about future articles you want to see, or if you want to contribute yourself email us at firstname.lastname@example.org The next edition is planned for late summer so let us know.
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With issue 2, we intend to start where we left off with a range of informative and interesting articles on all things “cheese”. As you look inside we have our regular features such as Meet the Maker, Cheese & Wine Pairings and International Cheeses as well as lot’s of great recipe’s for you to try.
Finally, whilst we publish The Cheeseboard Magazine, 3 times a year online – we keep our website up to date on a daily basis with new recipes, competitions, offers and cheese news. Its worth keeping on dropping by and taking a look. You can also follow us on Twitter and Facebook for regular updates.
But we’ll also offer advice on the perfect Cheese & Charcuterie Plate ( a great snack for when staying up late to watch World Cup games), look at different cheeses provenance and review the humble pickled onion!
We hope you enjoy this issue.
With the Tour de France coming to Yorkshire for the Grand Depart, we have decided to make this editions Regional Focus about Yorkshire (with a slight bit of boundary altering licence!). We’ll take you on a tour of the regions cheesemakers, look at some Yorkshire beer and cheese pairings and meet Andy Swinscoe, from Settle recently voted Cheesemonger of the Year.
Tim & Steve Tim Barber & Steve Moncrieff Joint Editors
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Yorkshire With the Grand Depart of the Tour de France taking place in Yorkshire in July, we thought we would take a look at the route it is taking and focus in on some of the Yorkshire cheese makers we found on route…
Tour Cheese de
Ribblesdale Cheese A small artisan cheesemaker, originally based in Ribblesdale but now based in Hawes. Founded in 1978 by Iain Hill, they specialise in mainly Goat’s milk cheese including a dense, creamy, Superior Goat’s Milk Gouda with a slight tang and an Original Goat’s cheese which is mild and crumbly. Riblesdale Cheese company also make a Matured Natural Rinded cheese, a couple of smoked varieties and a new Goat’s Curd which has really taken off recently (Winning a Gold Medal at the international Cheese Awards in Nantwich in 2013). Occasionally they make an unpasteurized goat cheese as well as occasionally adding cranberry into the original Goats Cheese. Ribblesdale cheese is only available in Booths supermarkets, fine food deli’s and farm shops.
Cotherstone Cheese Created by Joan and Alwin Cross, Cotherstone cheese is made in Teesdale and named after a village in County Durham. Their cheese is closely related to Wensleydale and Swaledale and belongs to a group called “Dales Style” cheese. It is made from unpasteurized, full fat Jersey cows milk. Cotherstone is soft and crumbly in texture and has a lemon and slightly tangy taste, often eaten when slightly younger. There are two versions of Cotherstone – a white version and a blue veined version often referred to as Yorkshire Stilton. These semi hard cheeses are often used in the preparation of tarts and pastry dishes and work really well with a Sauvignon wine.
Wensleydale Cheese Based at the Hawes Creamery, Wensleydale cheese has a along association with the area (see our article on Wensleydale cheese in this issue). Recently being awarded Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) regional status for the name Real Yorkshire Wensleydale – the cheese has a unique texture and flavour which no other region can match. Wallace and Gromit’s favourite cheese – it has a lovely creamy, crumbly texture and is full of flavour. There are a number of version of the traditional cheese, many of which feature exciting ingredients such as cranberries, ginger, apricots or garlic to create a tantalizing taste experience.
The Swaledale Cheese Company Cheese has been made in Swaledale since the 11th century, originally made with goat’s milk but after cows were introduced to the valley in the 17th century a number of small creameries set up in the area. Now there is just one left, run by Louise Reed and her brother Sam, after being run by their parents since 1986. Their passion for making fine Yorkshire artisan cheese continues. The creamery now produces a couple of Goats and Ewes milk cheeses as well as a mild traditional creamy cows milk, Swaledale cheese from milk bought from local herds. They also produce a Swaledale Blue and a cheese & garlic version of the Swaledale cheese and a really interesting Swaledale Old peculiar cheese using Theakstons local beer to give the cheese a really distinct flavour.
King Richard III Wensleydale Suzanne Stirke first began making cheese more than twenty years ago at Fortmayne farm near Bedale. Looking to make a distinctive Wensleydale farmhouse cheese she discovered a recipe in an attic drawer which had belonged to her grandmother. Due to wartime rationing cheese had to be made drier in order to have more calorific content, her grandmother’s recipe was pre-war and as such is akin to the original Wensleydale cheese, which results in a moist creamy cheese with a delicious flavour. She now produces her pasteurized cows milk – King Richard III Wensleydale which is handcrafted and wrapped in muslim cheese cloth to produce a delicious creamy white cheese with a mild fresh clean taste with a crumbly flaky texture.
Yellisons Goat’s Cheese, Craven Based in Carleton in Craven, near Skipton, Yellisons Farm produces cheese from its own milk. The farm was set up by Steve Akrigg and is now run by his son due to illness, sadly the farm was recently looking for new owners. The milk comes from its own 138 strong herd of mixed breed goats and to keep things green, travels all of 15 metres from milking to the purpose built dairy to be pasteurized. The milk is then made into delicious, creamy, traditional goats cheeses which are very popular throughout the region. They also produce a variety of semi hard, soft and spreadable goats cheese and can also supply goat’s milk curd to order, You may have seen Yellisons on the television as they were recently visited by Ade Edmondson for series 3 of The Dales.
Lacey’s, Richmond Based at the old railway station in the historic market town of Richmond, Simon Lacy produces a range of traditional Yorkshire handmade cheeses which he sells through many of the local farmers markets. His products include a delicious traditional Wensleydale and a lovely local cheddar. He also makes a beer cheese using beer from the next door Richmond Brewing Company and flavoured cheeses such as chilli and mixed olives or smoked. His cheeses are made using milk from the herd of brymore Guernsey cows based near Masham, which helps to make a beautiful yellow cheese. All his cheeses are hand made and use traditional techniques which you can see for yourself if you visit the area.
Dale End Farm,Whitby The Botton Creamery run by Alastair Pearson on the Yorkshire Coast near Whitby produces a strong and tangy Dale End Cheddar as well as Yorkshire Gouda. Alastair travelled to Germany to learn his cheesemaking and the result is a number of relatively unknown cheeses which are only sold locally. The Botton Creamery is part of the Camphill Farming Community which employs a number of staff with learning disabilities. With the milk coming from the communities 46 shorthorn cows – a traditional breed known for their milk. Dale End Cheddar has a distinctive, tangy bite with a long lasting, rich flavour and the Gouda which was one of Alastair’s first recipe cheeses is a young, 3 month old gouda with a sweet grassy flavour and supple texture. They also make a strong powerful Moorland Tomme which is aged for a year.
Barncliffe Brie, Huddersfield Barncliffe Brie is produced at Shelley in Huddersfield by Danny Lockwood, producing a soft, mould ripened cheese using local milk from the Bark House herd of pure breed Meuse-Rhine-Issel cattle. Once the milk is collected, it is transported a few hundred yards down the hill to the dairy before being gently warmed and cultures and rennet added, before being stirred until it is ready to be hand ladled into waiting moulds. The moulds are turned out hourly before bing brined and left in temperature controlled rooms for 12 days to grow their white mould coat. The brie is then left to ripen for 6-8 weeks to produce a soft and creamy cheese with a deep yellow inner and a really distinctive taste. It tastes great baked or on some toast with an onion marmalade.
Shepherds Purse, Thirsk Farmers for 5 generations and cheese makers for 2 – Judy Bell decided to make sheep’s milk cheese after studying as a pharmacist and realizing more and more people were being diagnosed with cows milk allergies. Having steered her business for more than 25 years, Judy recently handed over the reins to her daughters Kate and Caroline who have energetically taken the business on. They now employ over 20 staff, and make a range of cheeses using cow’s milk, sheeps milk, ewes milk and buffalo milk. The cheeses are stocked nationally now but are still hand made, lovingly in Thirsk to ensure the quality of each cheese. Shepherds Purse produce a range of blue cheeses including the famous Yorkshire Blue (the first blue cheese to be made in Yorkshire for 30 years), but also Harrogate Blue and Buffalo Blue. They even produce a cheese called Blue Monday with Blur’s Alex James. Other unique cheeses include Katy White’s Lavender flavoured cheese and a crumbly Yorkshire Fettle.
Ruby Gold Cheese, Wakefield Family run business Cryer & Stott run by Richard & Clare Holmes are passionate about making cheese and also run a successful retail business supporting other local cheese makers. Their Ruby Gold Cheese is the world’s only cheese made from the famous ‘rhubarb triangle” rhubarb. They spent four months perfecting the cheese to ensure the texture and flavour was one they were proud of. The outcome is a ewes milk cheese with a flaky texture, which marries a lovely lemon zest tang with the sugars from the rhubarb. The cheese is great with salad or as an unusual cheese for your cheeseboard.
BEER & CHEESE There has been a gradual move from cheese enthusiasts to suggest that beer works better with cheese than wine. At The Cheeseboard Magazine we love our cheese and wine pairings but feel that it is often more difficult to put together great pairings with wine than it is with beer. BY TIM BARBER
So why does beer work so well with cheese? PALE ALE
Firstly, we probably need to look where they have come from - both products were traditionally made on the farm originating from grass - in the case of beer using wheat and barley, then with cheese actual grass! Both are made from fermentation processes - in beers case to produce alcohol.
Timothy Taylors Landlord Pale Ale and a strong Mature Cheddar
This IPA has been brewed in Keighley since 1858 using spring water, which wells up from the Pennines. This full flavoured ale has won several awards and is a firm favourite at The Cheeseboard.
Secondly, the flavours in beer somehow tend to match those in cheeses, plus beer tends to cleanse the palette between bites better than wine. So as part of our regional focus on Yorkshire and because the county boasts 131 different breweries we thought we should take a look at some of Yorkshire's fine ales and try and pair them with different cheeses. We looked at 11 types of beer all brewed in “God's Own Country” and our recommendations can be read here.
“The County has a heritage, tradition & passion for beer that flows through generations” Sam Moss - CEO Leeds Brewery
“The sprawling northern county of Yorkshire is becoming a big destination for beer lovers” New York Times So it takes very little knowledge to put a good cheese and beer pairing together - so why not experiment with some yourself. As a rough rule of thumb - put mild with mild and intense with intense so that flavours don’t overwhelm each other. Here are some of our choices…
We would recommend a strong farmhouse cheddar with this classic pale ale. They are both sharp and fruity with big flavours so they work well together. A true aged cheddar such as Cheshire Cheese Company Vintage Gold is best as it complements the slight citrus taste of the ale.
Saltaire & Dark Star Bock and an aged Swiss Cheese Saltaire Brewery near Shipley have joined up with Dark Star Brewing Co to produce a new classic European Ale - vcBock. It’s a dark brown beer with a rich malty aroma and a taste of caramel combining a delicate hoppy fruitiness with a well balanced bitterness. With the strength and smoothness of the Bock, it needs a strong tangy and dense cheese to help balance out the flavours. For this reason we plumped for an aged Swiss cheese like a Gruyere. A Bock beer works really well with a fondue!
Leeds Brewery Leodis Lager and a soft French Cheese LAGER
Leodis lager is named after the Roman name for Leeds and is a crisp, dry refreshing lager produced in Leeds using bottom fermentation before being conditioned for 4 weeks. The German and Slovenian hops used give it a delicate floral aroma and flavour. Here we would recommend a Camembert or a Brie. A gooey, creamy cheese with an edible rind works best here, where the lighter flavours compliment each other. The perfumed hops pick the floral notes of the cheese and the light acidity of the lager ties well into the tang of the soft cheese.
Brown Ale & Cheddar Sam Smith’s Nut Brown Ale and a Mild Cheddar
Little Valley Brewery Hebden’s Wheat and a fresh Goats Cheese
Hebden’s Wheat is a Belgian style, naturally hazy wheat beer. The beer is light in colour with hints of coriander and lemon, helping make the beer both fruity and refreshing. This organic ale is bottle conditioned and brewed at Cragg Vale near Hebden Bridge, West Yorkshire. Due to the wheat beers high acidity but light taste, we suggest it is best paired with a young, mild cheese. A soft creamy goats cheese like a Chevre, makes an ideal partner with the low fat, tart, tangy flavour really hitting it off with the hint of coriander in the beer.
This Brown Ale is brewed with well water (the original well at the brewery sunk in 1758 is still in use!) as well as local barley, malt, yeast and aromatic hops. It is fermented in traditional “stone Yorkshire squares” to create a relatively dry ale with a rich nutty colour and palate of beech nuts, almonds and walnuts. For the nut brown ale we had to go for a mild cheddar. Brown Ale and the ‘Ploughman’s lunch’ go back a long way and the nutty flavours of an aged, but Mild Cheddar work well with the rich nutty flavours of the ale. A brown ale also works particularly well with melted Cheddar Cheese.
Samuel Smith of Tadcaster was established in 1758 and claims to be the oldest brewery in Yorkshire
York Brewery Centurian’s Ghost and a soft Blue Cheese
Brewed within the historic city walls of York, Centurion’s Ghost is dark ruby in colour, full tasting with a mellow roast flavour balanced by light bitterness. It has autumn fruit flavours that linger into the after taste and a smokey malt aroma giving a smooth taste. The bitterness and lingering, smokey after taste of the ale needs to be balanced with a salty, sweet, tangy tasting cheese - so a creamy, soft blue cheese is our choice. A good Roquefort can handle a weighty beer and the roast malt melds well with the mouldy tang.
Kirkstall Brewery Black Band Porter and an aged Gouda A full bodied yet beautifully smooth dark porter. Perfectly balanced with an aroma of dark chocolate and roast malt with a hint of coffee This almost black beer with a mid tan head has a lingering dry aftertaste. It is for this reason we suggest an aged Gouda. With their concentrated flavours goudas require bold beers and porter is such a beer. The nutty and fruity flavours in the cheese are really beer friendly and work well with the aroma of dark malt. The roast malt bitterness of the porter matching the cheeses sharp edge.
Smokey Dark Ale & Soft Blue Cheese GOLD ALE
Copper Dragon Golden Pippin Ale and a crumbly Wensleydale Cheese
Brewed in Skipton - the gateway to the Yorkshire Dales, Golden Pippin is a light refreshing golden ale brewed using a new variety of hop creating a citrus fruit flavour. Originally, a seasonal summer ale, it proved so popular it’s now brewed all year round. This fresh & fruity beer with hints of orange on the nose acts as a very pleasant counterpoint to the mild and slightly sweet flavour of a Wenselydale cheese, combining to leave a fresh honey-like aftertaste. The crumbly texture and clean taste of the Wensleydale compliment the golden ale and we found versions containing fruit such as cranberries also worked well too.
Ampleforth Abbey Beer and a Washed Rind Cheese
A real trappist ale brewed in Yorkshire - the Monks at Ampleforth Abbey use traditional Belgium trappist techniques and have restored the ancient monastic traditions of brewing beer to help create an income stream for the Abbey. The beer is brewed in partnership with Little Valley Brewery to produce a stong flavoursome ale at 7% ABV. Stinky washed rind cheeses seem to work best with stinky brews. For this reason we are recommending an Epoisse - its brining process gives it an intense flavour - so it needs a strong beer to match. The Trappist ale is bold enough to stand up to a pungent cheese and its fruit flavours compliment the Eppoise well.
Stout & Stilton STOUT
Osset Brewery Treacle Stout and a Stilton
Yorkshire Dales Brewery Bainbridge Blonde and a Mozzarella
A rich and robust stout the addition of black treacle gives intense depth and roasted malts impart a coffee flavour. Generous amounts of hops add a dry citrus finish to this complex black ale. A multi award winning beer ideally served with oysters, game and cheese.
This is a bottle conditioned, blonde ale brewed as a single hop special using Citra hops from America for bittering, flavouring and aroma. It creates a light yellow beer, which with its grapefruit and citrus notes makes it a really refreshing beer for the BLONDE summer months.
We feel that stouts pair perfectly with Stilton. The rich malty treacle taste of the ale gives off a residual sweetness which in turn works really well with Stilton. You may find this a surprising choice, but it is one of our favourite matches.
The basic rule for a cheese pairing with a blonde beer is light and fresh. For that reason we suggest pairing a creamy Buffalo Milk Mozzarella. The bright, fruity flavour of the blonde beer work particularly well with the fresh lively flavours of the mozzarella.
Wine & Cheese Watching a live stage of the Tour de France it is difficult not to become enthralled by arguably the greatest and most gruelling sporting event ever devised. This year the 101st edition of the Tour runs from 5th to 27th July 2014 and covers over 2,250 miles. The winner will finish on the cobbles of the Champs Élysées in Paris after around 90 hours in the saddle. On the way thrills and spills are guaranteed for a ride that has six major mountain stages and where speeds can easily exceed 80 kph. One of the best things about Le Tour is how the route is uniquely renewed every year. Excitement has been building rapidly in Britain ever since it was announced that it would get three stages in 2014, including the Grand Départ and the two stages in Yorkshire that pass close by my house! As the route naturally passes through many wine and cheese regions I have selected a local wine with a local cheese specifically for some stages. Cheer on the British champions Cavendish, Froome and Wiggins with these, whether from a roadside picnic on or watching on TV. © Paul Howard, March 2014
Leeds to Harrogate
York to Sheffield
Let’s celebrate Yorkshire! Wensleydale cheese is the obvious choice. Less obvious is the wine selection, a white wine also from Yorkshire! Yorkshire Wensleydale is also now celebrating its newly protected PGI status too, it has to be made there. A mildly honeyed and lightly salted pressed cow's cheese, it was originally made by monks that settled from France, it has a crumbly, creamy white paste. I prefer white wine with Wensleydale, so George Bowen's Leventhorpe award-winning wines hit the spot and they are grown and made only three miles outside Leeds city centre. Leventhorpe Madeleine Angevine 2010 has delicate stone fruit and grapefruit flavours and is so much more than a local novelty. It’s available directly from the winery or stockist Cairns & Hickey at £7.99. P.S. Save a piece of the Wensleydale for the end to eat with a piece of fruit cake, as is the custom in these parts. C'mon, lets show the French a British cheese and wine match to be proud of!
Arras to Reims
Épernay to Nancy
These two flat stages are ideal for the sprinters. Épernay and Reims, the twin capitals of Champagne, are hosting a start and a finish in the race this year. Fizz is a brilliant foil for softer creamy cheeses. My cheese pick is the unctuous Chaource, made locally with fresh milk from Charolais cows, which is easily found and deserves to be better known. This cheese has a lovely contrast in texture between the outer crust and the gooey centre, balanced with refreshing acidity and hints of mushroom. This fabulous cheese deserves the best and pairs effortlessly with Champagne. My pick is Lanson Black Label Brut NV. Lanson deliberately conserves fresh acidity to cut through the mouth-coating cheese. Its focused style wraps up subtle fruit - apples and pears - with hints of lemon and is undercut with gentle brioche flavours. Around £25.00 and widely available.
Mulhouse to La Planche de Belles Filles
As the tour climbs on the first mountain stage through Alsace towards the Alps it demands one of the greatest Cheese and Wine pairings. Munster cheese has an apricot-hued rind and a straw coloured paste and is a brine-washed spicy, tangy cows cheese with a powerful smell and flavour. The best examples are farm-made, being strong and ripe and my favourite version comes coated in caraway seeds. You need something equally aromatic to cope with that and an Alsace dry Gewurztraminer is made for the job. Josmeyer Gewurztraminer Folastries 2010 is a dry style that also avoids heaviness or excessive oiliness. It has a fabulous rose and lychee aroma and fresh acidity. A fine wine with a full-on Turkish delight palate, spicy notes kick in at the end. In addition, there are precious few wines that work with fresh tomatoes but this is one of them - just add some tiny cherry tomatoes for a splendid meal. The Wine Society. £19.50.
Bourg-en-Bresse to St. Étienne
For this hilly stage it would be easiest to suggest the lovely creamy blue, Bresse Bleu paired with a sweet white wine. Instead I've opted for something much more rustic: goat's cheese, a speciality in these parts, where the best is known as Chevreton du Maconnais. Chèvre can come in many guises and this one is hard and aged. Shave it lavishly over salads. Many red wines would blanch at matching this kind of cheese because of clashing tannins but good Beaujolais is perfect, especially slightly chilled on a hot day. Beaujolais majors on fruit flavours and is low on tannin content with plenty of freshness. Avoid the cheap stuff and choose from one of the ten named villages for quality. Try the gutsy and fragrant Juliénas Esprit de Marius Sangouard 2011 by Trenel. £9.50 from The Wine Society.
Maubourguet to Bergerac Bergerac to Périgueux
The Bergerac wine region is known to many for excellent reds, whites and sweet wines, being the local wine of the Dordogne. Their best reds give Bordeaux a real run for their money. Cabecou de Rocamadour is a soft goats cheese like no other. It is dipped in plum brandy then covered in coarse black pepper and comes wrapped in Chestnut leaves. It has a nutty brandied flavour and the pepper coating means you can break the usual rule of pairing white wine with softer cheese. Tour des Gendres Bergerac 2011 is a fruity and soft, medium bodied red made from Merlot and Malbec and is ideal for the role. £7.95 from The Wine Society. Just add some Perigord walnuts for a cheese and wine feast. I hope you'll be inspired to try some of these wine and cheese combinations and perhaps make new discoveries. Even better, take a look at the Le Tour route and experiment for yourself - the potential local wine and cheese combinations throughout the journey are limitless. And finally…don’t forget the Baguettes! Allez-oop, as you might say in Yorkshire this summer.
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