world once had the potential to be a great dry wine." The push to highlight the versatility of Sauternes also makes sense. Food is more varied and exotic than ever before -- and sweet wines often make the most sense. The move to sell wine through gimmickry, though, seems at odds with the tradition that distinguishes Sauternes. Few regions can match Sauternes' history. And no wines of such consequence are a better deal. So long as one is willing to forgo Yquem, savvy consumers can purchase half bottles from virtually every top producer -- many with a decade or more of age -- for less than $30. Wines from other regions of such significance cost multiples more. One must root for today's efforts to sustain the region -- and hope that serious consumers continue to find at least some space for Sauternes. David White is the founder and editor of Terroirist.com, one of the world's most popular wine blogs. His columns are housed at GrapeCollective.com.
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