IN THIS ISSUE: Winter season is amongst us, and this season is about layered singular shades. Creating depth in material and textures from the singular colour. Highlights and outer layers are very focused on embodying the outdoors and many strong colours from summer carrying through to this season such as Green and Amber. Wool is revived in outerwear, with stunning Alpaca and Cashmere making strong variety in new editions from Loro Piana and Dormeuil to name a few. Sustainability is very much at the forefront of all new releases from fabric mills with Dormeuil’s ECHO collection offering stunning depth in range and Holland & Sherry’s own ECO-Traveller collection offering a fashion twist on travel fabric
Challenges of working from home, out of office meetings, bring a new sophistication of casual wear with knit wear and cashmere featuring as layers and more comfortable designs in jacketing with more plays on pockets, and collars to afford a more relaxed look. Winter 2020 will see to promoting wider lapels and generous jacketing – 1950s inspired, with fancy yarns and large-scale patterns adding both up to key statement pieces proving style for all occasions in the colder months.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS 2019-20
Fabrics from around the world - Vicuna Peru
6 - 11
WINTER CAPSULES Shades of Grey
12 - 25
Wood and Oud
32 - 41
44 - 51
60 - 67
68 - 73
Brick and Rust
82 - 89
Deep Blue Sea
92 - 101
TRUE PROVENANCE Interview with Joe Mammone
THE CITY WE LOVE Chicago
52 - 57
WINTER TASTINGS Clove Lane
26 - 31
76 - 81
FABRICS FROM AROUND THE WORLD VICUNA | PERU
A slender animal with a fawn and white coat, the vicuña has
Shearing takes no more than a few minutes to limit the stress
a magnificent treasure in its exceptionally fine fleece, which
to the animal, which is immediately released. Vicuñas are shorn
adorns it in unrivalled fineness and softness. Overhunted in the
every two years and are ringed for identification from one year
1960s for its fleece, a protection programme in Peru ensured
to the next. From scarves, to Coats, to the ultimate exclusive
the resurgence of the Queen of the Andes. Today, vicuñas
suiting fabric – Vicuña is at the top of the echelon in luxury.
roam freely in small groups in their natural territory. Ask in any of our Boutiques for more details – only a very select In common with its fellow Andean species, the alpaca, guanaco and llama, the vicuña belongs to the larger camelid family which originates from the region of modern-day North America. Of all the camelids, the vicuña gives by far the best wool. With a diameter of 11 to 14 microns and a length of around 30 millimetres, the fibre from its fleece is the number one precious wool in the world. Vicuñas are shorn one at a time using electric clippers.
few fabric mills offer this superb cloth; The House of Dormeuil offers the very best in Vicuna to select from and is available in both Sydney and Melbourne Boutiques by private viewing. Unapologetic, never arrogant, always assertively BESPOKE.
SHADES OF GREY A wintery refinement in colour and texture. Grey is a key feature in multiple textures this season from yarns in mouline, melange, flannel, tweed and hounds-tooth. Add it as a layered effect with multiple shades. Think relaxed and comfy styles in jacketing with style tips such as tab collars and patch pockets to add to the look.
13 Photo by Joel Filipe
Photo by Maria Teneva
CLOVE LANE | RANDWICK NSW Venture out of isolation, Sydney-local or visiting the great city, and treat yourself to a dining experience that is truly special. Clove Lane is a modern bistro with a team of fine dining chefs in plain view for all its customers. Chef Emile Avramides (Little Jean’s, Gordon Ramsay’s Maze, Cutler & Co) converted a suburban corner store in Randwick into Clove Lane, and literally removed the walls that had stood between himself and his customers in the past. The vision is for them to enjoy good food in a relaxing environment, free of pretence. “As we see it, the more memorable feasts are held around the family table, where one is free to sit back, immersed completely in both the cuisine and setting. It is with this familiarity that we invite you to a seat at the family table, a dining experience where the atmosphere complements the quality of food and the service is equally as personal” says Avramides
Avramides adds, ‘This truly is a local neighbourhood gem that focuses on sourcing and preparing the very best in local produce in a relaxed dining environment. The outdoor courtyard featuring their herb and vegetable garden is the perfect place to kick back with friends and family any day of the week.’ Dishes are easy to share, and complementary plates like sirloin and ox cheeks are served together. Clove Lane is certainly one of our favourites, we can highly recommend the chef’s menu where you are served an unstructured procession of dishes according to the chef’s recommendations and their own preferences – always different and absolutely stunning.
This is not your ordinary neighbourhood eatery – the cast supporting this kitchen is world-class where Avramides is joined by Michael Tran (Hibiscus in London and The Bellevue) offering seasonally driven, dynamic menus to share. Despite the fine dining mentality towards sourcing and preparing the very best in local produce Clove Lane are committed to maintaining a relaxed attitude where it counts the most – the dining room.
19 Clovelly Road, Randwick, NSW, 2031 www.clovelane.com.au
(Pictured) Chef-owner Emile Avramides
WOOD & OUD Inspired by the finesse of that sweet woody scent, these sophisticated shades of amber and gold offer a different take on mensâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; wear. Plain and unobtrusive they come as a fashion statement or as an unusual accent to outerwear or a singular piece in a layered effect. Perfect for a casual cashmere overcoat, to full suit, pocket square or tie.
Photo by Jr Korpa
33 Photo by Stefania Chihaia
Photo by Huper
PROUDLY PROVIDING GARMENTS MADE IN ITALY WITH TRUE AND CORRECT PROVENANCE.
TRUE PROVENANCE INTERVIEW WITH JOE MAMMONE We sat with restaurateur extraordinaire Mr Joe Mammone of the famed Group Carolina in Melbourne to talk all things Italy and their recent works in multiple locations in the city.
On produce, all of your locations undoubtedly showcase Italy at the forefront, as well as locally sourced produce in their dishes. How important is it for you to source true Italian produce as a point of difference and why? Using premium Italian products is essential for our brand’s authenticity and allows us to pay homage to our Italian heritage.
To those customers that consider themselves purist of fine produce, or “exacting connoisseurs”, do you rely on suppliers with the exclusive DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) label which should be a mark of higher quality? Or do you focus on hidden gems outside of these structures? We’re not restrained by using DOP products only, it’s quality that’s key. We’re so fortunate in Australia to have amazing local, sustainable produce and, for me, it’s simply about finding the best product available on the market. It’s important that we support those who produce it too — our farmers, artisans and suppliers — particularly given the current climate. Relationships are at the forefront of everything, so we all have to support the businesses that support us. Can you offer us any examples of these authentic gems that diners should look for on the menu next time they visit? Our pastas are the best representation of authentic Italian food. We’ve invested in Monferrina machines, imported from Italy and chefs are trained in artisan methods. Each piece of pasta served at our restaurants is handcrafted with love. With menus forever changing in all your establishments are there new experiments your Chefs are releasing over this Winter season you are excited to see on plates? Truffle season is about to begin and we’ll be bringing truffles into our menus and pantry to support the farmers, who have been strongly affected by COVID-19. At Marameo, this week we’re launching a $30 lunch special of cacio e pepe, freshly shaved truffles and a glass of wine. We’re launching new menus at both Bar Carolina and Tetto di Carolina, plus Il Bacaro will have a new offering when it reopens following renovations. CV-19 has forever changed the landscape of hospitality and specifically restaurants, locations such as Bar Carolina have flourished in its flexibility to address and focus on local trade. Will we expect more adaptations in future? There are definitely more changes to come, but customers have been very understanding and are adapting quickly to the changes at hand. The main thing that we’ve noticed is that service is consistent throughout the whole day, rather than broken up by rushes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. ll Bacaro is being redeveloped this year, you never seem to be short of creative ways to fitout your venues, what are we to expect in aesthetics in this award winning dining institution rejuvenation? It’s all in the works at the moment, but I can say that we’re very excited to be taking things to the next level. 43
NIGHT OUT Tuxedo black tie events, or an elegant night out with your partner. This winter donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t compromise on variety from velvet to textural jacquards â&#x20AC;&#x201C; dare to make a difference to classic black, try subtuous aubergine or deep green from award winning mills such as Dormeuil or Holland & Sherry.
Photo by Christopher Burns
Photo by Stanislav Ivanitskiy
Photo by Matt Bero
Photo by Neal Kharawala
THE CITY WE LOVE Chi-Town – CHICAGO | UNITED STATES OF AMERICA The blues legend Robert Johnson 1911-1938 wrote the blues standard “Sweet Home Chicago” in 1936 and the song has become a popular anthem for the city of Chicago despite ambiguity in Johnson’s original lyrics. From Buddy Guy, to BB King to Eric Clapton to the iconic Blues Brothers, artists have interpreted the song in a variety of styles – but one thing is for sure be it the first time or the hundred time you visit the city you’ll be humming it as you walk the streets of Chi-Town.
Photo by Paul Griffin
Oh, baby don’t you want to go? Oh, baby don’t you want to go? Back to the land of California To my sweet home Chicago Oh, baby don’t you want to go? Oh, baby don’t you want to go? Back to the land of California To my sweet home Chicago Now one and one is two Two and two is four I’m heavy loaded, baby I’m booked, I gotta go Cryin’ baby Honey don’t you want to go? Back to the land of California To my sweet home Chicago Now two and two is four Four and two is six You gonna keep monkeyin’ round with your friend-boy, you gonna get your Business all in a trick But I’m cryin’ baby Honey don’t you wanna go? Back to the land of California To my sweet home Chicago Now six and two is eight Eight and two is ten Friend-boy, she trick you one time She sure gonna do it again But I’m cryin’ hey, hey Baby don’t you want to go? To the land of California To my sweet home Chicago I’m goin’ to California From there to Des Moines Iowa Somebody will tell me that you Need my help someday, cryin’ Hey, hey Baby don’t you want to go? Back to the land of California To my sweet home Chicago
Robert Johnson We love our city. Unapologetic, never arrogant, always assertively BESPOKE
Photo by Max Bender
Photo by Dmitri Yakovlev
Photo by Benjamin Suter Issa
Chicago House of Blues
Photo by Irina Iriser
FOREST VEGETATION Inspired by the outdoors, from solid deep green to highlights in yellow moss or playing within patterns in checks. This capsule carries on from Summer tones in micro structures and mini gingham, to window pane checks for fashion jacketing and trousers.
Photo by John Towner
HUNTSMAN Rich wool in generous tartans specifically for coats, peacoat, car coats are back in force this season. Strong British undertones with elegant draped checks from small to classic and generous patterns.
Photo by Illiya Vjestica
Photo by Magda V
MARAMEO | MELBOURNE VIC Looking for reasons to get out of the house or office this winter? Melbourne’s city precinct has plenty to offer, the coffee, the shopping and of course the food! Always partial to Italian cuisine, one of our favourites for Lunch and Dinner is Marameo.
Smooth those winter blues with a very impressive curated beverage list from Sommelier Thomas Maiden, which has a dedicated spritz section along with classic cocktails and a 300-bottle wine list.
The aesthetics are playful yet elegant and the service is always on point, never arrogant and always inviting. The name Marameo comes from what Italians call “thumbing your nose”, usually associated with a hand gesture – and this cheekiness is very apparent in the restaurant’s design, from the stunning burnt-orange leather banquettes playing off against blond timber flooring, to the large marble communal table and white-tiled walls.
6 Russell Place, Melbourne, VIC, 3000 barcarolina.com.au
Head Chef Geoff Martin’s menu centres on salumi, antipasti, handmade pasta and grilled proteins. To eat, we always start with some Italian salumi (mortadella, bresaola, San Daniele prosciutto) before moving on to mains. We highly recommend the popular dish of jetblack squid-ink spaghetti with blue swimmer crab, fresh tomato and fish roe, or the delicious cavatelli (small shell pasta) served with pan-fried pork sausage and broccoli puree. Our lunchtime favourite has to be the cacio e pepe spaghetti – a creamy, spicy sauce of cheese and pepper served with spaghetti, a brilliant seasonal warmer!
Dishes in order of appearance: (Previous page top) Cavatelli, pork sausage, and broccoli puree
(Previous page bottom) Cacio e pepe (Pictured left) Squid ink spaghetti, WA blue swimmer crab, chilli, tomato, fish roe
Photography by Kristoffer Paulsen
Photo by Jonathan Hanna
BRICK & RUST Formal or casual look â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this capsule showcases rich red, and mustard highlights in structure or regimental stripes adding a fashionable twist to the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobe. Think burgundy, warm Bordeaux in knitwear with darker shade jacketing.
Photo (Right) by Jonathan Hanna
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DEEP BLUE SEA From suits, to jackets, to overcoats, rich deep navy and blues are strong influences this winter â&#x20AC;&#x201C; look at light weight flannels, wools and contrast them with lighter shades in layers of shirts and neckwear. Try a subtle play in layering with rich smooth denim in shirting under sophisticated suiting.
Photo by Lukas Beran
93 Photo by Fernando Jorge
SYDNEY 55 Regent Street Paddington Nsw 1800 875 699
24 Toorak Road South Yarra Vic 1800 875 699