Pattern Book by G32 berlage

Fashion House Pattern Book

The Berlage Center for Advanced Studies in Architecture and Urban Design

Table of Contents

What is Fashion House?

Power of FIve Four Core Principles Pattern Book

Small

Baseline Universal Certifications Intellectual Property Physical Property Construction & Elements

Medium

Building Block District

Large

Real Estate Ambiance Funding Networks

Extra-Large

Family of Programs The Secondary Five The Red Thread

One-Size-Fits-All

Local Personnel & Procurement Charter Signatory of Fashion House Site Attributes and Documentation

Appendix

Certifications

What is Fashion House? Fashion House is a pan-European cooperative and regulatory body that collects, promotes, and grants provincial certifications that guarantee operational transparency to participating local brands across five former post-industrialized cities— Berlin, Marseille, Rotterdam, Valencia, and Zurich— that are emerging fashion hubs due to intentional municipal efforts to shift their economies towards creative industries that together form the Red Thread. Fashion House’s mission is to empower local designers by offering economic incentives, industry services, and consultancy within a broad structural framework to harness innovative and sustainable production techniques to motivate more ethical consumption patterns. The Red Thread is an imagined discontiunous economic zone that connects these five emerging fashion hubs in Europe with a free trade agreement that encourages intercity exchange of products, services, and expertise to overcome economic trade barriers to empower brands to synergistically supply, produce, or retail for each other. Fashion House is a centralized service-providing enterprise operating within the cities’ provincial regions that will become a coordinated economic catalyst across a pan-European network within the Red Thread, like the Blue Banana before it.

Power of Five Within the Red Thread, the collaboration of the five cities, led by the EuroMayorFive Council, challenges the hegemony of the traditional “Big Four” global fashion capitals of London, Milan, New York and Paris by attracting emerging talent and intensifying local production. Each city within the Red Thread offers unique expertises that address components of the fashion industry, ranging from longstanding histories with textile industries and celebrated resale markets, to favorable tax regimes and significant logistical infrastructures, which that—when coordinated together—can implement an alternative future for the fashion industry. Berlin has witnessed an economic shift toward the creative industry after becoming the first European city to be awarded the UNESCO Cities of Design title in 2006. Today a dense network of design start-ups, trade fairs, and showrooms are spotlighted at the annual Berlin Fashion Week, attracting large international audiences. Marseille, with its storied history as a port city and former capital of French denim, is challenging Paris as the capital of French design. French brands, combined with emergent grassroot designers, are relocating their studios and headquarters away from Paris to the Marseille region to flee expensive taxes, real estate prices, and the compounding effects of Brexit that have made the French capital unaffordable. Rotterdam has, in recent years, spearheaded efforts to reuse vacant buildings and districts to refashion itself as a maker’s hub, while, at the same time, also taking advantage of its global logistical connectivity through the Rotterdam Port. Valencia, awarded World Design Capital of 2022, is a centerfor skilled textile, silk and leather artisans, and a hotspot for emerging designers that has made the city an attractive venue to host new festival events like CLEC Fashion Festival. Zurich has invested, over the past years, in research and development of innovative products and methods across various sectors. Its central European location—paired with advantageous taxation and bureaucratic regimes—provides a strategic position to attract investors and companies. The city is ranked as one of the most innovative and technologically important cities in Europe.

Four Core Principles Fashion House has the credibility to lead across the Red Thread because all operations at all scales —ranging from the internal components at Fashion House locations (S) to the entire Red Thread network (XL)— reinforce four guiding principles: value, duration, production, and consumption. The four guiding principles include a spectrum of universal design principles and site-specific guidelines that are adapted throughout all scales, and that also substantiate all the Fashion House certification programs: 1. Value Value is embedded in craftsmanship, design inclusivity and exclusivity, knowledge and cultural monetization, intellectual property, preservation and heritage, branding, and desirability to name only a few. 2. Duration Duration is evident throughout a product’s life span, ownership or rental, resale and repair, seasonal collections and editions, among others. 3. Production Production occurs not only in material responsibility and innovation, provenance, re- and upcycling, but also in the building constructions of Fashion House such as window displays, facade elements and other attributes within each city. 4. Consumption Consumption underlies all forms of pricing, bespoke and mass-customization, mediation, advertisement, and customer experience ranging from in-store display and purchasing to digital presence and online-shopping.

Pattern Book This pattern book provides a set of guidelines and tools —derived from the Red Thread member cities and the core principles influencing the future of the fashion industry— that inform the extensive and minute specificities of design and planning principles for Fashion House locations across the five cities of EuroMayorFive. The pattern book is organized in five chapters that individually focus on discrete scales for design production: small (S), medium (M), large (L), extra large (XL), and onesize fits all (OS).

Small The “small” scale details the discrete institutional, physical, and digital interfaces between Fashion House and professional clientele and cliententities, public non-professional customers, and internal staff, that emerge as a result of, and that shall inform the networks and convergences in the following chapters. Fashion House prioritizes, through specific guidelines that can be tailored per Fashion House locale, and through a set of minimally required universal certifications for all professional members, regional and local sourcing of staff, contractors, building interior and exterior new construction materials, and product materials, in order to economically strengthen geographically immediate individuals and businesses of the Red Thread city, and to champion Red Thread regional intangible culture.

Baseline Universal Certifications All professional members and prospective members of Fashion House shall adhere to the guidelines set-out by these universal certifications. These universal certifications shall also provide the framework for nonminimally-required local certifications, which are listed in the appendix.

Labor Certificate Certificate specifying conditions for and awarded to clientele which maintain a delineated level of humane and socially-responsible labor conditions for its staff, and which only engage with contractors of equal or superior labor conditions.

Product Traceability Certificate specifying conditions for and awarded to clientele which ensure that products can be traced to certain manufacturers, import or export handlers, production facilities, and material suppliers, thus minimizing delays in the event of sensitive information retrieval. 10

Environmental Sustainability Certificate specifying conditions for and awarded to clientele which maintain a delineated level of product supply and production chain environmental carbon, contamination, and pollution footprint.

Personnel & Procurement The Fashion House substantiates the principles laid out by its baseline universal certifications, and supports the economy of the Red Thread city region, by, whenever economically or logistically feasible, sourcing internal staff and contracting entities, and equipment and operational material procurement, from within city region economic jurisdictions.

Talent Retention Fashion House recognizes that, as an instrument of cultural and economic stimulus for Red Thread cities and city regions, up-and-coming talent should not remain within Fashion House for too long, and rather should proliferate into local and regional fashion businesses. 13

Intellectual Property Ideas and creations of Fashion House, physical or intangible, which are employed in consistent manners by Fashion House members and institutional physical and digital presence, and which are legally protected in order to strengthen the collective soft brand power of Fashion House members.

Typography The style and appearance of printed matter published by Fashion House and its members, ranging from Fashion House institutional correspondence letterheads, to business card design. It’s typography is distinct and instantly recognizable amidst the cacophonic homogeneity of the industry. 15

Fabric Designs The specific fabric visual patterns and color sets which Fashion House has exclusive legal right to employ in both clothing and visual media. Fashion House fabric designs are more than the sum of, yet still invoke typical or signature variations from the Red Thread cities. 16

Stitching & Cutting The specific clothing fabric cutting patterns and shapes that the Fashion House develops and maintains legal exclusive right to use. Fashion House stitching & cutting above all, feels physically apparent and distinct to the end consumer when worn as a clothing or fashion accessory. 17

Words & Symbols Fashion House words and symbols, such as slogans or marketing phrases, are consistent through the five branches and remain unmistakable, but can be linguistically or culturally adapted to branch locales after careful cultural consideration and consultation.

Digital Identity The style and appearance of digital media published by Fashion House and its members, whether visual or auditory, and including guidelines for marketing and advertising procedures. The Fashion House digital identity highlights its collective nature of with regards to the Red Thread cities. 19

Physical Property In anticipation of professional and nonprofessional clientele and customers engaging with the publicfacing portions of Fashion House branch buildings, the following guidelines ensure that interior design, including illumination, materiality, and circulation, work in unison to provide an experience unique to Fashion House. See the following subchapter “Construction & Elements” as an index.

Sensorial Tactics These guidelines on the engagement of visiting clientele or customer senses highlight the specific qualities of products on display, and facilitate efficient and productive house-client interactions.

Space Tactics The definition of specific threshold and circulatory conditions in the publicfacing portions of Fashion House branch buildings ensure customer or clientele experiences that are immediately recognizable between branches, yet tailored to regional cultural specificities. 22

Construction & Elements To support the previous subchapter “Physical Framework”, this subchapter acts as an index of construction guidelines and building element detailing and specification. Fashion House branches shall be consistent in minute detailing and physical touchpoint specification. See Scale ‘M’ for a continuation of these principles that are tailored for district and regional conditions.

Surfaces Fashion House surface materials are coordinated between public-facing portions of branch buildings to be highly recognizable.

Furniture Fashion House branch furniture is, whenever reasonably possible, and to the greatest degree possible, procured from regional or domestic manufacturers of industrial design, ergonomic, and cultural excellence.

Fenestration

applicable.

Fashion House branch building fenestration, including exterior doors and windows, are all sourced from the same product line of the same manufacturer, but are physically scaled and proportioned according to branch local and regional urban characteristics, and existing exterior wall conditions, if 27

Walls In the case of Fashion House branches that are situated in oldconstruction buildings, exterior wall construction, excluding fenestration, is to be left undisturbed as a means of championing existing intangible heritage. Interior wall construction is to be kept at a reasonable level 28

of capacity to be remodeled, in anticipation of future branch building renovations.

Materials Fashion House branch building new construction materials are specified on the basis of their capacity to be safely deconstructed, disposed of, or recycled, in the event of demolition or remodeling.

Heights Fashion House branch building floorto-ceiling heights for various spaces are informed by regional cultural preferences, the principle of exceeding workplace health and safety standards, and the principle of providing superior natural illumination and ventilation.

Medium The scale of “medium” delineates Fashion House’s location within the city, establishing its presence in its neighborhood and sets guidelines for its outward presentation to its city. Operating between the scale of individual components of the design, furnishing, and internal organization of the Fashion House proper and its urban siting within the city, scale “M” coordinates its in-house ambitions with the emergent logics of the city. Design at scale “M” occurs at both architectonic and spatial arrangements of Fashion Houses locations and their synthesis with Fashion House’s role within the city. From District to Block to Building, this chapter is organized as a series of diminishing scopes that—in their subsequently increasing granularity—bind together urban and building design.

Building These guidelines establish design criteria for the hierarchical organization of spaces and formal language of Fashion House locations with a particular emphasis on the outwardfacing facades and thresholds between site and city.

Domestic Roots The diagram of the domestic origins for Houses of Fashion is the departure point for the hierarchical spatial organization of Fashion House, adapted as needed to activate the programmatic and site characteristics in each city.

Family of Program The design of each Fashion House location accentuates its unique programmatic attributes—as outlined in Chapter XL—in its the spatial organization.

Prioritize Ground Floor The design for Fashion House locations emphasizes the ground floor so that it is both architectural conduit to the city surrounding and nexus for social functions that Fashion House hosts.

Anything New Must Look New Fashion House interventions do not imitate its contextual architectural language. Rather, new interventions are differentiated from its surroundings yet sensitive to not overpower.

Block These guidelines establish parameters for the specific site of Fashion House, defining its boundaries between site and city, and for the design of its overall formal attributes.

Careful Integration The scale, palette, materials, and design of each Fashion House location’s exterior elements is tuned to appropriately “fit into” its surroundings without being timid—Fashion House is always recognizable but not scandalous.

Public Transit Proximity Fashion House is located near, or implements future, stops along well-traveled public transit lines to ensure convenient travel to and from Fashion House for employees, clients, members, guests and visitors, tourists, and friends.

Prioritized Pedestrian Access & Proper Logistics Fashion House is designed to encourage serendipitous visits and easy entry inside. Therefore, frontage along pedestrian-first routes is paramount. Each location, however, ensures that all logistical requirements for all its program types are met. 43

Sensible Demolition Existing elements on Fashion House sites are not needlessly removed. Instead, interventions aim to do as little as possible to implement its objectives and are considered on a case-bycase basis, whether that be minimal alteration or extensive overhaul.

District These guidelines establish the criteria for selecting the municipal precinct in which Fashion House is located, and instructions for the cultivation of that region’s character.

Heritage Sites Sites with underlying historical value —or sites with post-industrial heritage — are opportunistically identified as Fashion House locations.

Destination & Focal Point Fashion House is a focal point within its environs. The location for Fashion House is chosen for proximity to current and future business, cultural, and entertainment establishments to optimally catalyze emergent neighborhoods.

Give public space to the city From lot-line setbacks to courtyards, public workshops to designer residencies, Fashion House is generous with its space, time, and presence in its community.

Location, Location, Location Consistent with the intention to elevate the provincial within the global fashion industry, Fashion House locations enhance the best qualities of its local context, from harnessing daylight and climate to prioritizing scenic views and utilizing natural features.

Large The “large” scale situates Fashion House in the metropolis to establish guidelines for the district-level planning for Fashion House locations. Connecting the inter-city networks stitching together the Red Thread and urban infrastructures within each city, scale “L” potentializes Fashion House locations capacity to embody the each city’s distinct characteristics and catalyze their emergence from its post-industrial legacies. Urban design in scale “L” considers physical connectivity and proximity to relevant existing programs—like design institutions or fashion week event locations - and atmospheric sensory conditions of the city—articulated by its surfaces and soundscape. From real estate and local funding structures to ambiance and physical infrastructures, this chapter prescribes how Fashion House is sited at the convivial convergence of each city’s physical and communal urban networks.

Real Estate These guidelines establish the criteria for strategic placement of Fashion House locations, marrying existing and emerging social and economic conditions with municipal policies to secure Fashion House’s metropolitan relevance.

Emerging Creative District Fashion House is located in municipally-planned emergent creative districts.

Proximity Fashion House is placed in proximity to cultural and economic institutions that relate to the fashion industry

Establish Community Within emergent creative districts, Fashion House is centrally-placed and provides a venue that is accessible to emerging communities of local designers.

24/7 Situated in neighborhoods that are active 24/7, Fashion House’s social interactions with its district is optimized.

Residency Fashion House provides places for temporary residencies for designers, researchers, or specialized craftsmen.

Ambiance These guidelines establish how Fashion House harnesses the city’s sensorial character whilst taking into account its existing conditions.

Surface The found surfaces of the city —that are seen, felt, or smelled— inform the design character of Fashion House locations, whether to adopt or deviate.

Urban Fabric Fashion House builds upon the existing fabric, whether organic and historic or rigid and modern, while simultaneously announcing its presence through distinctive positioning.

Funding These guidelines detail the funding sources and planning principles provided by public and private partners that influence Fashion House’s public character.

Tax Exemption Tax exemptions and reductions are used as incentives for companies to participate in the certification system. The amount of exempted tax is calculated by municipality depending on each country’s policies.

Public Funding and Private Funding Fashion House is seed-funded and initially operates by municipal public funding, guaranteeing Fashion House’s commitment to important public roles in its district. Over the long term, Fashion House will transition to a balance between public and private funding. 66

Networks These guidelines establish the parameters that ensure Fashion House’s inner-city, peripheral, and inter-city connectivity through appropriate and sustainable modes of transportation.

Inner-city Network Fashion House is situated in a wellconnected district so that it can be easily reached by local producers, designers, and visitors.

Metropolitan network Fashion House is connected to nearby cities and towns that have relevance for the specialized fashion industries in each respective city.

XL 72

Extra-Large The “extra-large” scales ties together Fashion House’s pan-European system of networks via the Red Thread, providing overarching organizational, guideline and economic structures and specifications for Fashion House cities. Linking each city to the Red Thread network —and thus to one another— scale “XL” provides frameworks for inter-city coordination that is vital to sustain Fashion House’s disruptionary model. From cultural heritage and global recognition to cooperative funding and service points, this chapter establishes the directives that nurture collaboration between Fashion House —as an organization—and its member cities and brands.

Family of Programs These guidelines establish the primary categories for Fashion House locations, balancing proportional distributions of necessary and unique programs. Strategically amplifying the opportunities and expertise within the Red Thread, the overall Fashion House program manual encourages adaptation possibilities for each location.

Fixed and Adaptable Programs

developed for each Fashion House location.

Fashion House is divided between primary and unique programs: 60% of every Fashion House location’s area is standardized —although it allows for more nuanced subdivisions within this category— with the remaining 40% allocated for unique or amplified program functions that are specially75

Adaptable Program—Berlin Berlin’s focus of production draws upon the city’s robust steel and machine industries, which are capitalized upon by Fashion House to invent engineered solutions and spur machinery evolutions for future design.

Adaptable Program—Marseille Marseille’s focus of production is predicated on its diverse cultural context, textile heritage to support a dense network of young emergent designers and brands.

Adaptable Program— Rotterdam Rotterdam’s focus of production echoes the city’s expertise in logistical and production capabilities to deliver small-scale experiences in the form of tailoring, rental spaces, fitting rooms and storage.

Adaptable Program—Valencia Valencia’s focus of production is inspired by the city’s extensive textile and leather-working artisan communities to cultivate an appreciation for fashion craft within the city and in collaboration with nearby textile producers in Portugal.

Adaptable Program—Zurich Zurich’s focus of production leverages its city’s provincial commitment to technological development through innovation centers, experimentation, and concept development to push material technologies and certification testing and standards in the fashion industry. 80

The Secondary Five These guidelines outline the unique expertise and resources that each member city contributes to the Fashion House network that collaboratively bind a collective strength to challenge the global Big Four. Each city contributes to the Red Thread in two ways: . Firstly, in specialized expertise necessary to the fashion industry, ranging from craftsmanship to technological innovation, logistics, production centers to inherited pedigrees Secondly, in strategic locations that open international gateways for Fashion House to operate seamlessly beyond the Red Thread

Secondary cities - input The secondary city locations —in relation to each other— highlighting the valuable and unique expertise they offer to the cooperative.

Secondary cities - output Strategic connections between the Red Thread and outside cities —particularly those outside of Europe— are highlighted, demonstrating the global market that Fashion House operates in from its home-territory within the Red Thread.

Economic Generator The comparative gross domestic product (GDP) measures of each secondary city and the global Big Four.

The Red Thread Infrastructural networks within Red Thread are the primary means of transportation of products, knowledge and consumption that link the secondary five together, establishing direct communication and flow between Fashion House locations.

Primary link The secondary five are independent knots woven together via a single thread that provides the parameters for physical mobility between each city.

The Expanded Network Three primary functions are facilitated by the transportation network within the Red Thread - product shipment, knowledge transfer, and consumption - that also demonstrate potential future growth and possibilities.

OS 90

One-Size-Fits-All The scale “one-size-fits-all “ outlines the tools and guidelines used by Fashion House to coordinate certification across the Red Thread that can be adapted to each city’s distinct economic context. The mechanisms in scale “OS” address overall Fashion House management logics, such as general organizing principles, taxation benefits that incentivize production, public-private partnerships, and monetary principles that are utilized in each city. From its corporate structure to hiring practice principles, from capital and funding strategies within the cooperative to long-term economic models that ensure membership longevity and certification standards, this chapter profiles the means that sustain future projections for Fashion House and its members.

Fashion House Structure Fashion House is organized as two independent departments: a certification body that tests, administers, authenticates, and regulates Fashion House certifications across the Red Thread and an in-house service provider that offers members access to production equipment, 92

design consultancy, logistical support, and marketing among others. In a non-hierarchical cooperative model, organizational responsibilities and expertise are distributed between all Fashion House locations across the Red Thread.

Economic Model and Funding Fashion House is a cooperative initialized by seed-funding from municipality grants and subsidies to establish its certification programs and implement industry services in each Fashion House location. Fashion House members have access to inhouse services and consultancies by

participating in a subscription model that will help cover Fashion House overhead. Similarly, participating in Fashion House certification programs empower local brands —both emerging and established— to reap economic and municipal-level benefits throughout the Red Thread.

Brand and Certification Fashion House Certification (FHC) Label grants certifications that authorize the provenance of the brand to navigate diverse standards and compete within the global market. A combination of universal (which must be met by all participating brands and their products) and local certifications (which act as 94

additional or unique authentications) make up the FHC portfolio, all of which adhere to the four core principles - value, duration, consumption, and production. Twenty-three local certifications are initially offered by FHC but more will follow as Fashion Houses’ membership grows.

Local Personnel & Procurement Charter 01 Fashion House members are local brands, producers and suppliers that pay annual membership fees to receive industry services and authenticated FHC certifications. 02 Fashion House membership requires a commitment to labor and hiring practices that prioritizes employment from within a company’s local community. 03 Fashion House Certification guidelines will set the minimum benchmarks for brands’ environmental, labor, and sourcing standards within the Red Thread.

brands and products who meet the required universal FHC standards. 09 Applicable tax benefits for Fashion House members include: VAT exemptions and reduced sales, property, and business taxes 10 Applicable trade benefits for Fashion House members include: waived, or significantly reduced, tariffs for goods sourced and/or produced within the Red Thread. 11 Public funding received by Fashion House through subsidies and grants are used to set up certification and industry service infrastructures. 12

04 Fashion House’s certification programs streamline bureaucratic procedures to fulfill universal FHC standards, allowing companies to focus on innovation or experimentation, and simplifies the process to apply for unique and local FHC certifications. 05 Fashion House provides participating brands its expertise to collaboratively design sustainability plans to empower them to become self-sufficient in order to compete globally.

While Fashion House is not based on a maximalist profit model, generated profits will be used to fund research and stimulus grants for emergent brands, producers, and laboratories. 13 Global fashion conglomerates operating within the Red Thread can access the tax benefits and trade agreements provided they satisfy the certification standards of Fashion House.

06 Fashion House provides a unique set of industry services to its members and private clients that include business and designing planning, production services, and administration support that are catered to the needs and goals of each member. 07 All participating brands and products must meet all minimum criteria as defined by universal FHC certifications to qualify for municipal tax and economic benefits and Red Threadwide Free Trade Agreements. 08 Unique and Local certifications authenticating specific provenances, production techniques, special sourcing, or craftsmanship are encouraged, but only available to 95

Signatory of Fashion House

Yours, Forever

With Love

Out of the Fabric

Emancipation

House of Olfactory

The Journey of Your Life

Non-fungible Cult

Crafting Heritage

House of OM

Retro-Prospective

The Unmentionables

Ready-to-Rent

Suit Power

Shelf Life

Small Goes Big

Bone to be Natural

Built to Crack

The First Resort

Sky’s the Limit

Hair Care

Try It Again

Schuhmacher

Viadukt 53

Appendix

Site Attributes and Documentation

Berlin Located in the bustling central Mitte district of Berlin, Fashion House Berlin will be located at the House of Statistics at Otto-Braun-Strasse 70-72. The current site is a complex of six buildings that has been empty for the last 10 years. Formerly occupied by the central administration for statistics 100

of the GDR, followed by the Federal Statistical Office, the building will be upcycled to accommodate Fashion House and its ancillary programs which —in collaboration with Berlin’s Senate Department for Economics, Energy and Operations— will include an initiative promoting exchange between creative disciplines and a center for fashion start-ups in the city.

Marseille Located at the corner of Rue d’Anthoine and Boulevard de Briancon in the Les Crottes district of Marseille, Fashion House Marseille will become an anchor for the Euromediterranee project, a public-private urban renewal initiative in the city that is prioritizing investment in creative industries and

sustainable living. The site is located at the edge of a historically heavilyindustrialized district - on one edge, warehouses and freight rail terminals are present, and on the other, recent investments have modernized the housing and commercial options in nearby La Joliette. Fashion House Marseille —a combination reuse and new construction building— is perfectly

situated at the confluence of historic and emergent networks.

101

Rotterdam Located in the M4H district, Fashion House Rotterdam will become a catalyst for a new fashion district. M4H, a transitioning district part of the Port of Rotterdam, is under redevelopment to become a mixed-use district that promotes interaction and connection between different creative and cultural 102

disciplines. Fashion House Rotterdam, in collaboration with this municipal initiative, will redevelop one entire city block through a combination of adaptive reuse and ground-up construction that compliments the industrial heritage while introducing innovative facilities and activities to support start-up companies and educate visitors.

Valencia Located on the main road to Valencia’s increasingly popular seaside, Fashion House Valencia is sited along the border between the historic harbor, La Marina, which is currently undergoing a redevelopment to become the Maritime District for Innovation and Creativity and the up and coming

cultural district La Cabanyal. Other than the industrial heritage buildings which are the subject of contemporary revival efforts as part of the World Design Capital project, the site is surrounded by a mix of buildings and public spaces that accommodate large-scale events. Fashion House Valencia is a ground-up development thoughtfully located in an emerging district at the convergence of

creative industries and seaside leisure activities to become a hub for local fashion designers.

103

Zurich The Fashion House Zurich is located at the Rote Fabrik building in the Wollishofen neighborhood of Zurich’s second district. The former silkweaving mill is currently part of a complex with many cultural activities. The location of Rote Fabrik next to Lake Zurich gives an opportunity to 104

incorporate the lake as an attractive feature and expand along the lake. Fashion House will reuse parts of the former mill and introduce new facilities to become a new destination point in Zurich that adds extra creative opportunities to the neighborhood.

Certifications Twenty-three certifications—developed in partnership with the founding members of Fashion House—form the pilot group of unique and local FHC certificates.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

Material Revolution One-of-a-Kind OM Made Sharing-is-Caring Stamp of Approval…53 Local Craft State of Derelict Maintenance Product Afterlife Preservation of Knowledge Global Management Sustainability Authorship Product Safety Short Distance Transparency Provenance Material Handling & Manipulation Shamed Made-to-Measure Social Responsibility Shape Diversity Local & Ethical

105

The Berlage Center for Advanced Studies in Architecture and Urban Design

Fashion House is a collective project exploring architecture and the fashion industry. Twenty-three contributions are sited across five European cities— Berlin, Marseilles, Rotterdam, Valencia, Zurich—that are emerging today as new fashion centers, challenging the global “big four” of London, Milan, New York, and Paris. The project begins by examining the spatial relationships between dressmaker and client at the beginning of the twentieth century and then continues by speculating on how future production and consumption patterns will alter the once domestically conceived “fashion house,” redesigning its architecture for the near present. Topics range from planned obsolescence and life span to re- and up-cycling and mass customization, from provenance and heritage to intellectual property to branding.

Faculty of Architecture and the Built Environment Delft University of Technology

Students

Nigel Alarcon (MX) Pooja Bhave (IN) Fabiola Cruz (PE) Mariano Cuofano (IT) Alonso Díaz (MX) Xiaoyu Ding (CN) Sandra Garcia (ES) Inés Garcia-Lezana (ES) Martino Greco (IT) Sebastian Hitchcock (ZA) Alejandra Huesca (MX) Yesah Hwangbo (KR) Takuma Johnson (US) Yi-Ni Lin (TW) Cristhy Mattos (BR) Preradon Pimpakan (TH) Adi Samet (IL) Raymond Tang (US) Kulaporn Temudom (TH) Paola Tovar (MX) Danai Tsigkanou (GR) Jesse Verdoes (NL) Rongting Xiao (CN) Guest critics

Edition

July 1, 2022

Michiel Reidijk Oana Stanescu Lucia Tahan