n/naka
Chef Niki Nakayama and Sous-Chef Carole Iida-Nakayama
Haute Japanese cuisine: the art of kaiseki
K
aiseki is a traditional multi-course dinner and a prime example of Japan’s culinary prowess. Based on centuries-old rituals, this culinary art is an expression of time and place, with an emphasis on esthetics. Kaiseki is above all an embodiment of omotenashi, which translates to wholehearted hospitality. Several ancient Japanese haute cuisines inspired the modern kaiseki, which showcases five traditional cooking techniques. The cuisine of Niki Nakayama, chef and owner of n/naka, epitomizes the nobility of modern kaiseki tradition. Born and raised in Los Angeles, the chef is one of the few women in the world to own a fine-dining Japanese restaurant. Steeped in the essentials of Japanese traditional cuisine, Nakayama wants to share “an experience that transports people to a positive place or time.” After perfecting her skills at Takao Izumida’s sushi restaurant in Brentwood, Nakayama left for Japan to delve into the traditional art of kaiseki. Back in California, she opened Azami Sushi Cafe on Melrose in 2000 with the help of her family. Nakayama’s omakase menu quickly became a success. Determined to keep evolving and with a
passion for creation, she founded n/naka in 2011, offering a modern kaiseki tasting menu featuring 13 courses made with the freshest seasonal and most local ingredients. “We always push ourselves to create new things, try new techniques but always stay true to the cuisine and ourselves.” Behind the shoji screens, chef Nakayama and sous-chef Carole Iida-Nakayama, her wife, imagine ever-changing, thoughtful and cohesive series of dishes destined to bring “a sense of pure joy and satisfaction.” Using vegetables and herbs from her own organic garden, Nakayama adds Western touches to her kaiseki. She conceives unique, exquisite dishes like the grilled branzino paired with Santa Barbara sea urchin with shiitake mushrooms and ponzu, a tender lobster dumpling with king crab bobbing in dashi, spaghettini with abalone slices, pickled cod roe and burgundy truffles. Niki and Carole’s divine culinary innovations flow harmoniously during an immersive, memorable experience that earned the team two Michelin stars in 2019.