That's Shenzhen - May 2018

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城市漫步珠 三角英文版 05月份

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MAY 2018

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SHIFTING TIDES: CHINA’S BOAT PEOPLE PLOT AN UNCERTAIN COURSE


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CIS GUANGZHOU SPRING MUSIC CONCERT A COLLECTION OF ICONIC CANADIAN MUSIC

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THURSDAY 17th MAY 2018 2pm | CIS THEATRE, NEW CAMPUS!! Hosted by Mr Planert

We welcome all the CIS families and community to this very special musical showpiece at our brand new campus in Merchant Hill.


that’s PRD 《城市漫步》珠江三角洲 英文月刊

主管单位 : 中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位 : 五洲传播出版社 地址 : 北京西城月坛北街 26 号恒华国际商务中心南楼 11 层文化交流中心 11th Floor South Building, Henghua lnternational Business Center, 26 Yuetan North Street, Xicheng District, Beijing http://www.cicc.org.cn 社长 President: 陈陆军 Chen Lujun 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department: 付平 Fu Ping 编辑 Editor: 朱莉莉 Zhu Lili

发行 Circulation: 李若琳 Li Ruolin

Editor-in-Chief Matthew Bossons Shenzhen Editor Adam Robbins Guangzhou Editor Daniel Plafker Shenzhen Digital Editor Bailey Hu Senior Staff Writer Tristin Zhang National Arts Editor Erica Martin Contributors Lena Gidwani, Bryan Grogan, Mia Li, Winnie Jin, Erica Martin, Noelle Mateer, Dominic Ngai, Dominique Wong

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Editor's Note

MAY 2018

For this month’s cover story, we’ve taken it upon ourselves to introduce you to the neighbors you didn’t know you had: the shuishangren, or ‘people on the water’ in English. More commonly – and controversially – known as Tanka people, populations of shuishangren are found in various parts of the Pearl River Delta (Hong Kong, Dongguan and Foshan, to name a few), and on pages 34-43, we offer an insight into the lives of these river- and seafaring folks while also exploring the modern-day challenges facing their centuries-old communities. In our City section, on pages 10-13, we look at the important work being done by PFLAG China, named for – but unaffiliated with – America’s Parents and Friends of Lesbians and Gays. We’ve also included a two-page photo essay from our colleagues in Beijing profiling China’s ‘Weird Architecture’ era (pages 14-15). Elsewhere in our May issue, we give you a breakdown of the best PRD-based events from this year’s Festival Croisements (page 32), pay a post-quake visit to Hualien in Taiwan (page 22) and meet the folks working to save Shenzhen’s coral reefs (page 45). Catch you all in June,

Matthew Bossons

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34 COVER STORY

6 CITY

ON TIDES OF CHANGE

7 MAN ON THE STREET

Examining the uncertain future of China’s boat dwellers, the Tanka people.

Eel monger: a slippery, slithering sales job.

10 A DECADE SPEAKING OUT PFLAG China marks 10 years.

19 DAYTRIPPER Shuilianshan Forest Park.

22 SHAKEN UP Traveling in postquake Hualien.

26 ARTS

44 COMMUNITY

THE WRAP

16 LIFE & STYLE

68 EVENTS

SZ

27 CHEN TONG The artistic mind behind video bureau.

MAY 17-20

30 MINDING THE DIGITAL

Tomorrow Festival

Visions of our future at the Sea World Culture and Arts Center.

HK

54 EAT & DRINK

MAY 18-20 Affordable Art Fair

MO

58 WEIRD EATS OF THE PRD Take a walk on the wild side.

60 WANN LOUNGE Peak chic.

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MAY 22 Feast of the Drunken Dragon


MAN ON THE STREET

CITY Shooting Stars

The photographer documenting China’s ‘Weird Architecture’ era, p14

EEL MONGER

A Slippery, Slithering Sales Job By Daniel Plafker

M

City Snapshot P8 6 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

PFLAG China P10

r. Xie wears boots to work. And if you plan to visit him while he’s on the job, we recommend you consider doing the same. That’s because Xie’s place of work is the Huangsha Aquatic Products Market, aka Guangzhou’s biggest trading center for fish, crabs, clams, prawns, crocodiles and every other type of seafood that the rivers, bays and fish farms of South China can muster. The market’s winding lanes of huddled stalls and multi-level, open-air warehouse section are a storm of commercial activity. Terrified sea life of every imaginable variety flop desperately from brimming tanks and barrels, specially kitted-out trucks-turnedaquariums rumble through the crowded alleys at a snail’s pace and beleaguered men hurry from stall to stall dragging nets, stacking traps and pushing carts of shellfish amid the pronounced aroma that is the signature of

fish markets everywhere. It strikes a marked contrast with the stately, peaceful airs of Shamian Island, which lies just across a narrow moat to the east. The floor is a mire of guts, scales, dark puddles and crisscrossing streams of mysterious liquids. Hence the rubber footwear. It’s not the prettiest place that Guangzhou has to offer visitors but it’s certainly one not to miss. There’s something strangely beautiful about the stacked masses of doomed sea life and, between the sights, smells and deafening noise of hollering hawkers and bellowing buyers, there are few places in the city that offer a comparable blast of sensory stimulation. Not to mention, it’s a trove of ingredients for the culinarilyinclined. There are even a few shops on the upper levels that will kill, gut and cook up your purchases for you on the spot. The aforementioned Mr.

THE DIRTY DETAILS Monthly income: RMB2,000 and up Days per week: 7

Hours per day: 12 (4am-4pm) Xie, whose stall can be found near the southeast corner of the market, not far from the ferry pier, has a singular focus in his product range: eels. Two main varieties, the larger of which is as thick as a human arm, squirm and writhe in Medusa-like piles in large glass tanks. It’s a scene reminiscent the 2004 art-house film Anacondas 2: The Hunt for the Blood Orchid. Their warden, the amiable Mr. Xie, is an early riser, arriving at 4am each morning to begin his 12-hour workday. “That’s not even early by our standards,” he insists. “Some folks have been setting up their stalls for an hour already by the time I get here.” Xie has spent 10 long years hawking his slithering charges, all of which are farmed – not wild-caught – elsewhere in Guangdong. “A truck comes with fresh stock most mornings,” he tells us. “The eels sell quickly.” Even so,

he maintains that the creatures can survive up to a month in their crowded tanks. Business is brisker in the wintertime than the summer, by Xie’s estimate. He suspects that this is because people prefer to eat eel in cold weather. The best preparation? “Steamed, with a bit of soy sauce,” Xie says with confidence. At RMB60 for a half kilo, there are cheaper, less squirmy meals on offer at the market, but few that are likely to put up as much of a fight.

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THE BUZZ RANDOM NUMBER

4 … years. That’s the length of time that transpired between the death of Tiantian’s parents and his birth in Guangzhou late last year. Shen Jie and Liu Xi, had been married for two years when they decided to try to conceive a child through in vitro fertilization – a process in which extracted eggs and sperm are combined in a lab dish. Unfortunately, less than a week before the pair were to attempt the procedure, in March 2013, they both died in a motor vehicle accident in Jiangsu province. Over the following three years, the parents of the deceased couple engaged in several precedent-setting legal battles to obtain the frozen embryos left behind by their children. When the wannabe grandparents finally received custody of the embryos, they headed to Laos to locate a surrogate mother. In December 2017, Tiantian’s grandparents managed to get their Laotian surrogate to Guangzhou in time for the birth, after which they were able to demonstate a legal basis for guardianship through a DNA test. Last month, Tiantian celebrated his first 100 days of life. “Tiantian’s eyes look more like my daughter’s,” Beijing News quoted the child’s now-grandmother as saying, “but overall, he looks more like his father.”

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CITY SNAPSHOT

Scraping the Sky This month’s featured Instagram photo comes via Liu Qian and features Guangzhou’s towering, 530-meter-tall Chow Tai Fook (CTF) Finance Center, which is located in the city’s Zhujiang New Town area. Liu is a Harbin native and amateur iPhone photographer currently living and studying in Beijing. See more of Liu’s work on Instagram (@imclumsypanda).

Kenlao/ kěn lǎo / 啃老 v. to live off your parents or grandparents What do you do?

I'm trying to gain a following on Youku to become a professional Youku'er. Who pays your bills? My mom.

Tag #thatsprd on Instagram for a chance to be featured on our feed and in the magazine.

So you kenlao full-time. Yes.

BEHIND THE CONCRETE

Shenzhen Christian Church History nerds, gather round. We have a story to tell. It starts in 1846, when evangelists came to Shenzhen (called Bao’an county at the time). The foreigners were European, sent by the Protestant Basel Mission as well as Germany’s Rhenish Missionary Society, and both established churches in the area. In 1898, the Rhenish group happened to found an outpost in current-day Luohu District. Over the next five decades, through the rise and fall of two governments, invasion and civil war, the church survived. In 1949, the same year the People’s Republic of China was born, it even found a new home at 22 Heping Lu [‘Peace Road’], Bao’an county. The church was forced to stop services during the 10-year Cultural Revolution, and its pastors were sent home to farm while other work units took over the building. It took a historic 1978 government meeting – which also kick-started the ‘reform and opening up’ that would soon transform Bao’an county – to restore the freedom to

Times are tough now, comrades. It is harder and harder for kids from regular families to get into a good school, find a good job or secure a living wage. We all work hard to get into college, only to find out that it leads to unemployment. We slave away at every unpaid internship we’ve had since graduation, and now here we are, living on our parents’ sofas, writing grad school applications and wearing dad's old hoodie that we try to pass off as ‘vintage.’ Times are especially hard in China for this generation, as competition becomes more fierce in the country’s increasingly cutthroat market economy. With rising inequality and diminishing social mobility, whether you can make it or not depends more on who your parents are than your own merit. Our grandparents’ generation had cradle-to-grave social benefits; their parents’ generation had merit-based social mobility; and the current generation has, well, nothing. At least that’s the meaning of kenlao, the term for when today’s young people live off the social benefits of their grandparents or the savings of their parents. Literally meaning “to knaw off the elderly,” kenlao is the reluctant choice of millions of young people in China today. According to Modern Chinese Studies, about 65 percent of Chinese families include working-age adults dependent on the older generations. They either live with their families into their 30s, or have their families buy an apartment for them. They rely on their parents for cooking and housekeeping, while their parents spend their fixed income supporting adult children instead of enjoying their “golden years.” The internet makes kenlao increasingly easy. You can easily spend days or weeks streaming endless TV shows on Youku, playing Glory of Kings on your phone or practicing your karaoke skills online. You tell your parents that you “can actually make a lot of money playing video games professionally” when they ask you about getting a job. You are right, in a way, since getting a job is hard. We understand. Thanks for taking the time to read this while procrastinating grad school applications on your parents’ sofa. Mia Li

worship and begin to revive the congregation. In 1983, the Heping Lu location was reclaimed. By the following year, it had become the first church in Shenzhen to resume services post-Cultural Revolution. The years since then have been kind to the church. Despite being forced to move as a city sprang up around them, the congregation slowly grew into the thousands and, in 1998, was granted a large parcel of land from the government. The Shenzhen Christian Church, opened in the Meilin area in 2002, was constructed to (vaguely) resemble Noah’s Ark. The angular white building towers over an ample garden area, and houses two large halls as well as offices, meeting rooms and dormitories. Although the Heping Lu church is no more, a namesake Christian Peace Church lives on nearby, while a third building was bought and converted into Christian Luohu Church in 2011. Shenzhen Christian Church, 126 Meilin Lu, Futian District 福田区梅林路126号 (8311 8817, 8311 8837)

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A Decade Speaking Out PFLAG China Marks 10 Years

Under the bright lights, alone on stage, Joan is weeping. The slight, pretty woman traveled with other families from Guangxi to share her story with more than 500 friends and strangers at the Guangzhou regional conference of PFLAG China. “My husband drank too much one night and forgot his phone at home,” Joan explained. She is using a pseudonym, a common choice for times like this. “So when I called him, I heard it ringing and found it nearby. When I saw the text messages on the screen, I knew it was true.” Like an estimated 16 million women in China, Joan’s husband is gay. She’d suspected there were many boyfriends in the picture, during their year living in different cities, but the confirmation of those racy messages still left her devastated. She got an HIV test the next day and demanded a divorce after that. He refused and promised there’d be no more sex with others – here the silence of the room erupts into knowing laughter. Joan goes on to recount how she opened an account on Blued (the community and dating app for China’s gay men) to see if he was active. He was. She found evidence that just two days before the conference he’d broken his promise with not one, but two other men. The room gasps. “He continues to deny my divorce requests, so I filed suit. But he’s gone to the court to delay the case, again and again.” Adding to the difficulty, he borrowed huge sums from Joan that he’s yet to pay back. But she barely cares about that now. She just wants to get out and start her life again. The room swells with applause and support as she concludes and makes way for the next speaker, a psychologist who gives the parents in the room the frank diagnosis that “Being homosexual is not an illness.” She’ll repeat the message time and again that afternoon. In many cases, it’s penetrating the misunderstandings and helping China’s families avoid the fate of Joan. PFLAG China – named for, but unaffiliated with Parents and Friends of Lesbians and Gays, the US nonprofit – formed 10 years ago with that mission in mind. The earliest days in 2009 saw the group of volunteers launch an ambitious national conference in Guangzhou, inviting 50 people from across the country and offering to pay their

travel costs. Just six parents showed up. But in the decade since its founding by Wu Youjian and Ah Qiang (another pseudonym), the group has seen a rate of growth and support unprecedented in China’s lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender (LGBT) community. Ah Qiang spearheaded the group’s expansion, with chapters in 55 cities across China, 3,000 volunteers and 130,000 members. Training and volunteering with the LA LGBT Center in the summer of 2011 gave him the organizing tactics, management tools and inspiration to make this his full-time job. “I saw that an NGO (non-governmental organization) could have this kind of very big, huge event,” he explained to Vanguard Now. “I met a lot of people there, made a lot of friends. I liked the feeling, the atmosphere. I said to myself, ‘I just want these feelings. I want people to trust each other. China is large and people don’t trust each other. So I just wanted to make those feelings happen in China.” Building that community of trust has been the mission since. And it’s been happening one story at a time. At meetings like the one we attended in Guangzhou, speakers are selected from volunteers who’ve trained in effective storytelling. It’s parents explaining the anxieties of suspecting, then learning, of a child’s orientation. It’s women like Joan sharing their heartbreak. But more and more, it’s stories of hope from parents who learn they’re not alone or couples who finally get permission to bring their adopted baby to visit granny and find relief in their parents’ continued love. “Earlier, most stories were sad and provoked tears,” explains Eros (another pseudonym), the PFLAG China volunteer turned fundraising staffer. “Now, they’re happier stories about coming out.” The change happened around 2016. Since then, “more and more younger parents are showing up to share their stories. [They] joke around more. They accept their children more easily. More and more parents can see ‘Oh, there are more parents like me. It’s not just our family. It’s okay.’ Many, many years ago, parents didn’t want to come out. After their children came out, they felt nervous because they didn’t see other LGBT families. Now they can.”

By Adam Robbins

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That open attitude is more pronounced in Tier One cities than in small towns, which is one reason the group plans an eightfold expansion, with chapters and volunteers in 400 cities across the country. “Every day, we get messages [saying] ‘How do I talk to my parents about this? I’m living in a small city; I can’t join the events in the larger cities,’” Eros tells us. “So PFLAG will organize more events in small cities. If I have a volunteer in that city, we will teach the people how to build a small support group in the small cities, to help parents and LGBT people [learn] how to support each other, how to create a small event and how to come out to friends and family. It’s very difficult but very meaningful for the local community.” It’s can be even more difficult for young women, who are underrepresented in PFLAG at roughly 16 percent of the national volunteer base. Shenzhen’s chapter is one exception, with female leaders making up half the core team. Fred, one of those women, is frank about the disparity other cities see: “Because of the patriarchal society. Gays and lesbians are obviously separated. [When] most of the founders are men, then women [are] unwilling to follow them.” Shenzhen’s strong female leadership helped Fred

feel comfortable joining a group that’s roughly 60 percent men, and her own positive coming out experience helped as well. That loving response from parents is more common recently, but her choice to come out to them on her own is less common for the PFLAG community. Most need the platform of the small group meetings to build their courage before bringing their parents back into their lives. Those small events give parents and children the chance to tell their story, and also serve as a fund-raising platform. While there’s some support from Chinese foundations and foreign embassies or charity events like next month’s SZUMMER PRIDE, overwhelmingly it’s individual donations that provide for an annual budget of RMB2 million. The funding has made it possible to train volunteers to host events in those 55 cities, as well as more expensive projects like their ten national conferences and other ground-breaking work. The very first project was a hotline, fielding calls from across China. The service’s first night, in 2008, saw 15 callers reach out for help with coming out or working out their child’s revelation. The project continues, expanded into WeChat, with roughly 1,000 reported calls in 2017.

Since then, PFLAG China has teamed up with Alibaba, Blued, and the Beijing LGBT Center to fly 10 same-sex couples to San Francisco for newly-legal weddings in 2015. Last year saw their national conference set sail, on China’s first LGBT cruise. On a five-day journey from Shanghai to Japan and back, 400 parents (of the 850 total who attended) were brought together to hear stories from women like Joan or gay men like Liu Feng, who took the opportunity of the cruise to come out to his parents for the first time. “I want to be free,” the 30-year-old PFLAG volunteer out of Hunan tells us. “But being gay made me hide my identity for a long time and repressed my nature. I felt bound by invisible chains. I didn’t want to go on like this. Coming out was the only way to unlock my nature. That’s why I’m going to be brave enough to live my life.” Liu tells us the gathering was “a good platform for

my parents to come out with a positive understanding of the gay community and its difficult situation. There were many volunteers and parents to help enlighten and comfort them, so they quickly rose up from the low ebb of emotion. After being out of the closet for almost a year, my mother has followed my lead and become a new volunteer. We’ve attended many local PFLAG activities, to continue this love and power, and help more gay families out of confusion and grief.” But if international waters are an ideal place to work for change, Ah Qiang has led a quieter campaign of advocacy on Chinese soil. The most public advocacy was an open letter signed by more than 100 parents to the National People’s Congress in February 2015. In it, they advocate for their children and women like Joan with a call for marriage equality. “The fact that they can’t legally marry puts them in a difficult situation when they try to adopt children, sign off [for] their partners’ [medical] operations, inherit assets from a deceased partner, or even buy a flat,” the letter reads. “Is our law trying to encourage homosexuals to marry heterosexuals? Won’t this produce bigger social problems?” Though the letter was covered in the CCP-owned China Daily, and two female members of the NPC have been in touch, there’s no indication of an official change from the ‘Three Nos’ policy toward homosexuality in China: 不支持, 不反对, 不提倡 (don’t encourage, don't discourage, don't promote). In fact, with last year’s regulation by the China Netcasting Services Association to prohibit “displays of homosexuality” online, and Weibo’s brief ban on LGBT topics last month, the road to progressive policy changes seems a long way off indeed. It’s a balancing act between advocating in public for social change and staying private enough to avoid trouble. But for 10 years the group has managed to maintain good relations with law enforcement and the ministries overseeing the country’s community groups. “We openly do our work,” Ah Qiang tells us. “If we do events, we try to have contact with the local police. If it’s a sharing meeting with the parents, it’s no problem. If you do some training to empower people, we have to be a little bit more careful.” With care as their watchword, PFLAG China steels itself for another decade of supporting families and helping them grow back together, with more strength and honesty than before. Join PFLAG for their annual meeting, next month in Shanghai. For more details visit pflag.org.cn or follow WeChat ID ‘qinyouhui002’.

“I want to be free. But being gay made me hide my identity for a long time and repressed my nature. I felt bound by invisible chains. I didn’t want to go on like this. Coming out was the only way to unlock my nature. That’s why I’m going to be brave enough to live my life.” 12 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

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Clockwise from top left: Wangjing SOHO, Beijing

eration interventions, and I was documenting it. So, Beautified China has become an overview of a period that will long be remembered in China’s architectural scene. Besides being a status update of the iconic architecture boom in China, the series is also very much a research project. My work as an architect and my photography are very complementary in that sense. Both passions influence each other.

(Zaha Hadid Architects); CCTV Headquarters, Beijing (OMA/Rem Koolhaas and Ole Scheeren); Harbin Grand Theatre, Harbin (MAD Architects)

Why did you choose to focus on just a slice of each building?

SHOOTING STARS

The Photographer Documenting China’s ‘Weird Architecture’ Era

Interview by Dominique Wong, images by Kris Provoost

From Chaoyangmen’s Galaxy SOHO to Guangzhou’s Opera House, China’s iconic buildings are indelible marks on the country’s cityscapes. The last decade, especially, has seen a proliferation of otherworldly structures, and in 2016, China’s State Council said that new urban planning guidelines would forbid the construction of ‘bizarre’ and ‘odd-shaped’ buildings that lacked character or cultural heritage. But for Kris Provoost, the buildings are more than a fascination. Having lived in China for over seven years, and worked at firms like Zaha Hadid Architects and Buro Ole Scheeren, the Shanghai-based architect is a firsthand witness to the country’s construction boom. The Belgium native brings his keen designer’s eye to his ongoing architecture photography project Beautified China, photos of which can be seen on these pages. We chat with 14 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

Provoost about the superficiality of iconic buildings and why the CCTV Headquarters is so extraordinary. What was the inspiration behind your Beautified China photo series?

Beautified China is a photo collection I’ve created over the past eight years. It documents my footsteps through the country, and sort of encapsulates my career as both an architect and a photographer. After years of working and living here, I could see certain trends developing. I was photographing the iconic structures built by ‘starchitects’ throughout China after the country’s massive building boom. Some of the buildings overtook cities, redefined them, or established them. It was clear that there was a shift from iconic Chinese architecture toward subtler regen-

Taking the buildings out of context, all that’s left is the different shapes, textures, patterns and colors, so it’s easier to focus and see what makes the building stand out. However, architecture is all about context and how it sits in the city. [As] these elements are rather difficult to truly capture in photography, I’d rather use video to document the [full] architecture. So, in this photoseries I focus [more] on the aesthetics. I went for a rather strong blue tone in the pictures to camouflage the real conditions and give a much ‘fresher’ look. As we all know, China has a serious smog problem. Indeed. Do you have a favorite building in Beijing and in China?

My all-time favorite in Beijing – and China in general – is undoubtedly the CCTV Headquarters by OMA/Rem Koolhaas and Ole Scheeren. I lived and worked close by for many years, [and] it amazes me every time I look at it. What makes it so special?

It’s a unique project, from an engineering point of view, but also from a [visual] point of view. There are two defining moments, for me, which showed the impact and uniqueness of this colossal building. I will never forget riding on the [Third Ring Road] at golden hour, and seeing the sunrays peek through the large opening. No building plays better with sunrays than the CCTV Headquarters. Another defining moment for me was seeing the backlit profile rise up when the first light of day appeared after an intense all-nighter at the office. In the text accompanying your photo essay you write: “Nowadays architects or visitors in general know better where that new Steven Holl or Zaha Hadid is in a city, [instead of where an] ancient temple is located. Can this be called success or just superficiality?” Does it have to be one or the other?

It’s interesting that iconic architecture sort of elevates itself from architecture’s main purpose of serving its users. Much like the

Guggenheim made Bilbao famous, and became an expression on its own [Editor’s note: the ‘Bilbao effect,’ which denotes how the Guggenheim Museum revitalized the Spanish city, is now used in general to describe the cultural impact of buildings on their respective cities], architecture in China draws people to certain areas or even can establish new districts. For example the Wangjing SOHO project, designed by Zaha Hadid, sort of gave life to the Wangjing area. While there were already many things happening in Wangjing, [the SOHO building] sort of gave a reason to hop on a quick trip there – at least for architects or architecture enthusiasts. Higher quality residential and office buildings were erected adjacent to it. But, as a consequence, it also made the housing prices skyrocket, as the area became a well sought after place to live. In a way, this type of architecture is a gift for the area, but also a poison for affordability. So, in many ways, iconic architecture is seen as a success by group A, while it is despised by group B. On the other hand, it is also a superficial way of making a place become liked. How do you envision the future of architecture in Beijing?

My observations show it will be less iconic, or at least I hope. Beijing has many qualities that should be cherished instead of being wiped away for another iconic building that could have been built anywhere else. The ‘iconic decade’ was a way of maturing the city, to get it ready for the next decade. The buildings are used for marketing purposes, [like] profiling the city in international media. Perhaps Beijing can try to uplift its own

living quality for its millions of residents, instead of trying to appeal to visitors. In addition to Beautified China you also have a video project called #donotsettle. What’s it about?

#donotsettle is a project I run together with fellow architect Wahyu Pratomo. What we basically do is make short, fast-paced video about recently completed architecture. We visit the project and describe how the space feels, what the general atmosphere is like and how people interact with the project. We ask people what they think of the building and if it lives up to their expectations. When we started out, we tried to break the current architecture media ‘rules.’ While many architects talk and design with ‘the people’ in mind, it is very seldom questioned once the building is completed. Our aim is to give a more honest portrayal of the architecture. What you see in the video is how the building is on a normal day – rather than before it’s officially opened to the public, when conditions would be ideal. We hope that with our videos architecture enthusiasts can learn something new that makes them think and form opinions when they visit a building by themselves. What are you working on right now?

Professionally I’m working on various projects across China. Regarding photo and video, I’m seeing growing interest in what we are doing with #donotsettle. Of course, I’m also always expanding my Beautified China archive. There are still many buildings I would like to add to the set! To see more of Provoost’s work, visit www.instagram.com/krisprovoost

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SPOTLIGHT

LIFE

P HO T O E S S AY | CI T Y

CI T Y | P HO T O E S S AY

&

STYLE Shaken Up

Traveling in post-quake Hualien, p22

ALEXANDRA ROLFE Founder & Designer of RikRak Interview by Dominic Ngai

With a background in fashion and retail, London native Alexandra Rolfe moved to Shanghai in 2014, and eventually went on to set up her own vintage womenswear label, RikRak. We find out why the ’50s and ’60s are an inspiration for the designer.

Is there a special meaning behind the name ‘RikRak’? It’s inspired by the term ‘ric rac,’ the embroidery fashion motif that’s uniquely indicative of the styles of the 1950s to ’70s. It resonates with me personally, not only as it captures the history of that period, but also because it has a sense of individuality and playfulness that is at the heart of the brand. What drew you to the style of this period in the first place?

The 1950s and ’60s were a true celebration of the feminine form, and that means a lot to me personally. It was a time of pure optimism and dynamism, and it was when fashion became fun. I grew up [in London] around many charity shops and vintage stores, and I’ve always felt there’s something really inspiring behind the idea of rediscovering forgotten pieces.

Tap That App P18 1 6 | | SSZZ | | MMAAYY 22001 188 | | WWWWWW. .TTHHAATTSSMMAAGGSS. .CCOOMM

Sneak Peak P20

“The 1950s and ’60s were a true celebration of the feminine form” how beautiful they were. These have always been a source of inspiration [for my designs]. This is also reflected in RikRak’s clientele – women with a sense of style and a timeless sophistication, and an appreciation for quality and design.

Is there someone that you associate with this style?

Being from London and living in Shanghai, how do these two places influence your design?

My grandma was a woman of her era and had an innate sense of style and respect for how she presented herself. She had a collection of vintage pieces, and I still remember

Much like London, Shanghai has so much heritage and architectural beauty that any creative can constantly feed off of. Having lived many years in Hong Kong, I felt that the

city has sadly lost touch with its colorful past. So when I first came to Shanghai, I found its culture and dynamism invigorating and as stimulating as my hometown. What are your plans for the rest of 2018?

Customers are increasingly looking for something that fits and reflects them. In the coming months, RikRak will focus more on made-to-measure customized pieces that are both timeless and unique for my customers. Find out more about the brand at rikrakshack.com

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E D I T O R . P R D @ U R B A N A T O M Y. C O M

STYLE RADAR TAP THAT APP

Taffy If you’ve become bored of swiping left and right on photo-based dating apps such as Tinder and Bumble, you may be interested in this month’s featured app: Taffy. Profile pictures are blurred on Taffy and you choose who to engage with based on a text description. To set up an account, you’ll need to create a one-line ‘heading’ that says something fun about yourself, such as “I like dogs.” You’ll also be asked to list your interests and your motivation for using the app (hookup, friends, love, advice or chitchat). Taffy will only connect you with users that harbor the same social intentions and goals. Once you’ve completed your profile, you can begin browsing and chatting with other users. If a given user’s heading tickles your fancy, you can ‘flip’ their ‘profile card’ to view their interests before starting to chat or bookmarking it for future reference. As soon as you tap the ‘chat’ icon, a number of suggested conversation starters are offered, including “Want to help me kidnap three puppies?” and “I want our love to be like pi, irrational and never-ending.” The more you chat with someone, the clearer their profile image will become – incentive to quell your shallow side and really get to know someone. Happy dating! Taffy is available on iOS devices.

OVERHEARD

“Fashion bloggers from other countries have made the list before, but this is the first for China. My dream has come true!” DAYTRIPPER

Shuilianshan Forest Park … so writes Mr. Bags on a Weibo post after finding out he was featured on Forbes’ 30 Under 30 Asia List this year. One of China’s most influential fashion KOLs, Tao Liang, age 25, has millions of followers on various social media platforms. Over the past year, he’s partnered with various luxury labels to develop limited edition collections aimed at the Chinese market, including a Year of the Dog handbag for Longchamp over Chinese New Year.

COVET

FP Justice The FP Justice is a dynamic piece of functional streetwear designed and developed right here in the PRD. Revolutionary shock absorption technology is built into the sole, distributing impact in a biomechanically precise pattern that adapts to an individual’s gait while flat laces and a durable suede upper mean you’ll be repping one of Guangdong’s most inventive designers in style. fpinsoles.com

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So, you find yourself in Dongguan: don’t fret! The little town of eight million has a few options to occupy your time. If your night wasn’t filled with too many craft brews in Xiaba Fang, wake up bright and early to explore the hiking trails of Shuilianshan Forest Park. Of Dongguan’s six forest parks, Shuilianshan is the most popular… which is a pro and a con, as families flock to the 6,000-acre space each weekend with rowdy kids in tow. Get there around the 7am opening for a more peaceful saunter to the peak. It’ll be cooler then, of course, which makes all the difference this time of year. Enter from the north, past the parking lot and up a wide paved boulevard. From there you can spy the namesake waterfall, distant enough to appear tiny but a pleasant sight nonetheless. Diverge from the main route to the lepidopterological pleasures of Butterfly Canyon (RMB20) – but skip the other animal attractions, as the conditions may

cause some heartache. Continue ascending until the road diverges into tributaries of winding, narrow forest paths. The paved gradient is never very difficult as you pass pavilions and rest stops to the 378-meter peak. Linger a while by the man-made lake – you can even hop in a boat to take a spin on the water – or divert yourself to the wide community space built up around the renovated Xishan Temple. When we visited, families burned incense, admired a large collection of sun-bathing turtles, tossed around the shuttlecock and photographed the costumed ayis as they danced. There’s food available – if you’re brave enough to savor RMB2 hot dogs – and water to purchase before ascending on. Give yourself three hours if you want to pashan straight to the peak, or five hours if you want to linger with a picnic or the other diversions. It might not surpass our favorite hikes in Hong Kong, but Shuilianshan Forest Park is a fine way to spend an active morning in Dongguan. AR

How to get there: Once in Dongguan, a No. 10 bus from Xiping MRT station should get you there in 48 minutes. But a taxi is by far the fastest way to get to Shuilianshan Forest Park – just remember that only the Chinese version of Didi works in Dongguan.

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Her

LIFE & STYLE | FASHION

DAD SNEAKERS

1 Nike,

RMB899 nike.com

5

2

1

Balenciaga

RMB5,014 farfetch.cn

4

3

New Balance RMB899 newbalance.com.cn

4

2

Calvin Klein

RMB5,681 farfetch.cn

5

Alexander McQueen RMB4,800 farfetch.cn

3

1

RMB899 nike.com

2

Balenciaga RMB4,446 farfetch.cn

3

New Balance RMB999 newbalance.com.cn

2

4

adidas by Raf Simons RMB3,154 farfetch.cn

5

4

Givenchy RMB8,490 farfetch.cn

1

These Chunky Kicks Are Cool Again

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Him

Nike

3

Compiled by Dominic Ngai

FASHION | LIFE & STYLE

5

From sports brands like Nike to high streetwear labels like Balenciaga, those big, fat shoes your dad wore back in the ’80s and ’90s are making a huge comeback.

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L IF E & S T Y L E | T R AV E L

SHAKEN UP Traveling in PostQuake Hualien By Bailey Hu

O

n arrival, Hualien, Taiwan, does not seem like a city recently hit by a 6.4-magnitude earthquake. Instead, the train station is bustling and the town serene, almost exactly as we remember from our last visit four years ago. Our taxi driver points out local landmarks as he drives – on this side a popular xiaolongbao stall, on the other a church built during the period of Japanese occupation. It’s evident that natural disasters aren’t the only challenge the city has faced. And yet it’s survived, and even thrived: over the years, Hualien has become a tourist destination thanks to a scenic gorge, gnarly waves and miles upon miles of Insta-worthy coastal highway. The town of just over 100,000 has adjusted to the attention. At the end of our taxi ride, for instance, the driver hands us his business card and tells us that he’s available tomorrow and the day after for private tours of nearby Taroko Gorge. Although not an uncommon offer, we

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can’t help but wonder if his schedule has been freed up in the aftermath of the earthquake. Just a week earlier, 17 were killed and well over 200 injured in the city. Photos of damaged buildings, one of them leaning so far it seemed stuck in the process of collapsing, featured prominently in media reports. While not as serious as some of Taiwan’s past disasters – exactly two years ago, a quake killed 117 in Tainan – it put a damper on tourism. It’s in the absence of normal peak season crowds that we set out to explore the seaside Highway 101. The trip turns out absurdly idyllic; there’s plenty of beach to go around, and we relish having whole expanses of gray sand or pebbles to ourselves. On our return to the city, we discover that it’s not as empty as we thought. Certain foodie spots – a tiny wonton soup shop, a roadside stall selling egg and scallion pancakes – reliably attract lines. While taking a detour for milk tea, we stumble across Hualien’s Cultural Park, an artsy enclave of restaurants and shops that doesn’t lack for visitors on a

sunny day. And as always, Taroko Gorge is full of people eager to trek alongside finely sculpted cliffs and precariously-perched temples. Hualien remains far from uncomfortably crowded, though, and we spend a


L IF E & S T Y L E | T R AV E L

quiet afternoon at the Pine Garden, a former Japanese military office converted into a museum and cafe. Once valued for its use in commanding air and naval forces, the building now supports small art exhibits and poetry readings. We stop by the local 228 Peace Memorial on our way back. Here, a dove sculpture and bell overlook the sea, commemorating a violent quashing of local protest against the KMT government in 1947. As we enjoy the views, an elderly lady on a nearby bench takes the opportunity to strike up a conversation, telling us to call her Mama Zhao. In between breezily asking us when we’ll get married and discussing her sons’ careers, Mama Zhao informs us that she too came to Taiwan on a trip from the mainland. Except that in her case, it was shortly before KMT leadership fled to the island in 1949. Zhao and her parents ended up stranded on one side of the strait, leaving behind a younger sister and grandmother in the People’s Republic. She hasn’t seen either of them since. But Zhao is determined not to dwell on the negative. She’s nonchalant about the earthquake too, choosing to focus her indignation instead on the spooked tourists who inconsiderately canceled their hotel bookings. Her confidence gives us courage later that night when a tiny tremor ripples through the furniture of our rented room. It’s unsettling, but so slight that it might have gone unnoticed outdoors. On the last night of our visit, we happen to come across the half-collapsed building that once made international headlines. We stand and watch for a while as a construction crew carefully takes it apart, sending plumes of dust and rubble spiraling into the cool night air. Then we continue walking, our path taking us closer to the cute shops, bustling food stalls and vibrant street scenes at the heart of Hualien.

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DRUMROLL

ARTS

CHEN TONG The Artistic Mind Behind Video Bureau By Bryan Grogan

Festival Croisements

F

or nigh on 30 years now, Chen Tong has been a stalwart of the Cantonese art scene. It started with his own personal art creations in the late ’80s and then progressed further in 1993 when Chen established Libreria Borges, an independent book store which focuses on translations of famed art texts and literature from around the world. Most recently, he established Video Bureau, a center that collects and displays artists’ work for public consumption. Every two months Video Bureau curates and exhibits works by two artists, with over 70 Chinese and international artists already represented at their headquarters on Taikang Lu. Most recently, on March 23, Chen and his team at Video Bureau published their collections of works by former Yangjiang youth Zheng Guogu and Germanbased performance artist Duan Yingmei. We sat down to speak with Chen about his artistic life.

Celebrating the best of French culture in the PRD, p32

When did you first become interested in collecting art?

It started in the ’90s. I felt like I wanted to do something public-related, apart from my own art creation. It feels like it was innate to me. I think there are two types of people: those that are for themselves, and those that are for other people. I fall into the second category. How different are art creation and art collecting?

They are totally different. When I deal with Video Bureau, I need to think about what the artist and the viewer want. In the management of art, I need to think about others first. With my own artwork it is less so, but I do have to deal with other people in the sense that if I ceased my artwork there would be no means to continue running Video Bureau.

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Minding the Digital P30

Your institutional work [Libreria Borges/ Video Bureau] is almost entirely funded by the sale of your artwork. Is that in order to stay independent, or because of a lack of funding from artistic bodies?

A part of the funding [for Video Bureau] is provided by 5 Elements Art Association. It is

our final goal to have more funding and input from the whole of society. We just don’t have that privilege right now.

Do you feel a kind of kinship to Guangzhou and the art centers here? I feel a responsibility for Guangzhou, but not due to a brotherhood of artists. I’ve lived here for more than 30 years. It is my hometown. I know the city very well, the characters, the people. Guangzhou still has many problems, but compared to Beijing, I prefer Guangzhou. What are the main differences between Guangzhou art and art in Beijing?

There is a larger market in Beijing. Guangzhou is a large city, but it is quite far from the capital, so on the domain of culture it still does not have a good location. Even though nowadays distance is not a

problem, there remains a small market in Guangzhou. That does not mean that artists in Guangzhou have less creativity than artists in Beijing. Creating or collecting: which is the most important in your 'artistic life'?

Both are important. My own artwork satisfies my own vanity; it reminds me that I am a talented person. Institutional work, on the other hand, has a meaning for the whole of society. I may not be the perfect person for this kind of work. There are people that are richer than me and more talented than me, but they did not choose this way. I chose this way. Follow Video Bureau on WeChat (ID: videobureau) Rear Building 3, 84 Taikang Lu, near Mupai Xinjie, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou. 广州越秀区泰康路84号后 座3楼木排新街附近

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E D I T O R . P R D @ U R B A N A T O M Y. C O M

COLL AGE

SINO CELEB

WHAT’S NEW

From Fall Out Boy’s catchy club anthems to The Bilinda Butchers’ breathy dream pop, here’s the best of artists playing in the PRD this month.

COMING TO A THEATER NEAR YOU

Edison Chen

NGMTMRE, Slander - GUD VIBRATIONS

To Western audiences, Edison Chen may be best known (professionally, anyway) for his brief cameo alongside Morgan Freeman in Christopher Nolan’s 2008 film The Dark Knight. For Chinese moviegoers, Chen was introduced via a number of Hong Kong blockbusters, including Infernal Affairs, which was remade by Martin Scorsese in 2006 and released as The Departed. Chen, the son of a successful Hong Kong businessman, was born in 1980 in Vancouver, Canada and spent his formative years there, before moving to Hong Kong at the age of 19. Chen is also an established hip hop artist, although he is probably best known globally for his numerous scandals. In January 2008, Chen was involved in a sex scandal that swirled around an online leak of hundreds of intimate photos of Chen with various female Asian celebrities, including well-known actress and model Maggie Q. The incident shook Hong Kong’s entertainment industry and resulted in the ban of future films starring Chen on the Chinese mainland. Although the indecent images were released without the consent of Chen, reproach in Hong Kong and mainland China resulted in the actor announcing that he would be stepping away from the Hong Kong entertainment industry “indefinitely.” Of course, that was not the case and Chen returned to acting and music production two years after the highly-publicized scandal. Now 38 years old, Chen is also an entrepreneur and fashion designer. In a three-part Vice documentary titled The Life and Sex Scandal of Chinese Star and Streetwear Icon Edison Chen (2015), the Vancouverite likens himself to Paris Hilton and states that he thanks those that hate him and lives to prove they are wrong.

Fall Out Boy - The Last of the Real Ones

Kind of like: a male Paris Hilton Famous for: photo scandal, Hong Kong streetwear brand Clot See him in: The Life and Sex Scandal of Chinese Star and Streetwear Icon Edison Chen

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ByebyeNoise - 短路 [Short Circuit] MAY 11

MAY 11

Avengers: Infinity War

Megan Leavey

With a cast that spans the entire Marvel universe and makes for a very crowded movie poster, Avengers: Infinity War sees the Avengers and the Guardians of the Galaxy team up to stop the villain Thanos (Josh Brolin) from acquiring the Infinity Stones and using them to destroy the universe. The ensemble cast features 22 superheroes, including Iron Man (Robert Downey Jr.), Thor (Chris Hemsworth), the Hulk (Mark Ruffalo), the Black Widow (Scarlett Johansson), Dr. Strange (Benedict Cumberbatch) and many more. Black Panther heroes T’Challa (Chadwick Boseman) and his sister Shuri (Letitia Wright) will also appear.

Based on a true story, Megan Leavey follows the title character, a young American Marine corporal deployed to Iraq, as she develops a strong bond with Rex, the dog she trains while working as a K9 handler. After a bomb wounds both of them and Leavey is sent home, she advocates for Rex to be taken out of combat so that she can adopt him, reaching out to congressional officials and eventually seeking help from New York Senator Chuck Schumer. Critics praised the film for its emotional resonance.

OneRepublic - Love Runs Out Lil.Jet - 说句实话 [To Tell the Truth] A Finger -日落后 [After the Sunset] The Bilinda Butchers - Tulips 曹槽 - 北京以南 [South of Beijing] Joshua Radin - Only You 余佳运 - 我想 [I Want]

Gong Li and Jet Li to Star in Mulan Remake Disney’s live-action remake of Mulan gained some major star power last month after actors Jet Li and Gong Li joined the cast. The martial arts icon (Shaolin Temple, Fist of Legend, Romeo Must Die) is in talks to play the emperor, who sets Hua Mulan’s story in motion by ordering the army conscription of one male from every household. Powerhouse actress Gong Li (Red Sorghum, Farewell My Concubine, Raise the Red Lantern, Memoirs of a Geisha), meanwhile, takes on an even more central role as a witch who’ll serve as the film’s primary villain. Her role is a departure from the 1998 animated film, in which Hun leader Shan Yu was the primary bad guy. The two actors join Liu Yifei as Mulan and Donnie Yen as her mentor Commander Tung, another new character. Directed by New Zealander Niki Caro (Whale Rider), the film is set to begin shooting this August in China and New Zealand, with a release date of March 27, 2020.

HAO BU HAO

Hao

Amazon is reportedly in talks to adapt Liu Cixin’s acclaimed sci-fi trilogy The Three-Body Problem into a TV series with a USD1 billion budget. Though the deal hasn’t been confirmed, the company is planning a three-season run and allotting an extremely high budget in the hopes of creating a watershed Chinese sci-fi franchise. Given the sustained success over the past decade of sci-fi and fantasy books-turned-TV series, from Game of Thrones to The Handmaid’s Tale, the Amazon series could well be a major hit if it gets made.

Bu Hao

Just a few weeks after a March announcement by the Chinese Football association that players cannot have any tattoos visible during games (leading to a lastminute withdrawal from a match by heavily inked central defender Zhang Linpeng), the ban on tattoo culture has spread to one of the nation’s biggest music festivals. The Hangzhou outpost of Modern Sky’s Strawberry Festival circulated a message prohibiting all musicians from having visible tattoos onstage. The notice asked tattooed musicians to wear long sleeves, and suggested that those with ink on their neck and hands hide them with scarves, stickers and bandages.

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F E AT URE | ARTS

ARTS | F E AT URE

“A lot of designers looked to nature for inspiration, but now with digital tools they can produce more complex structures and generate a deeper understanding of nature, through design.”

MINDING THE DIGITAL

Visions of Our Future at the Sea World Culture and Arts Center By Adam Robbins

I

n the dim heart of the space, an orb glows silently. Watch carefully enough and you can track the shift of colors evoking fire to those reminiscent of water, or earth or wood or metal. Emerge from the shadowy corners of the room and the orb notices, changing the swirl of light as you approach or retreat. It’s watching. And in its inscrutable way, it’s communicating. ‘Anima II’ – from the Latin for ‘spirit’ – is one of dozens of cutting edge works of art on display at the Sea World Culture and Arts Center. In Minding the Digital, the center’s inaugural exhibit seeks to stretch our understanding of what our newly-crafted world can do, to help our thinking catch up with what’s already begun. “It’s a bit spooky in its dark space,” Senior

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Curator Carrie Chan tells us. “We don’t want to just celebrate [digitalization], but we want people to reflect. Is it scary if a lamp understands how we feel? That’s why it’s important to share this and represent the feelings of the digital era.” With “digitalization” Chan means “how the widespread integration of technology is shaping our lives through art, design and... a certain domination of [our] thinking about life.” With the exhibit, on display until June 3, “it’s not just about the invisible but about the tangible.” They mark the beginning of the era as 2009, when third generation (3G) mobile phone networks were first approved in China, quickly emerging as the ubiquitous mobile network we know, explains Assistant Curator Tang Siyun. After that, “everyone is staying

connected, constantly online.” WeChat appeared in 2011 and achieved ubiquity in 2013 along with the rest of the BAT trifecta. Ofo took to the streets in 2014 and Mobike the following year. “After 2015,” Chan notes, “the Chinese government echoed this phenomenon with policies that celebrated this change: ‘Internet+’. These were the two defining moments.” Internet+ was the buzzword of 2015’s two political sessions, with Premier Li Keqiang calling for China to integrate IT, big data, cloud computing and the ‘Internet of Things’ into every aspect of the nation’s economy. Internet+Finance, Internet+Agriculture, Internet+Medicine: it’s part of what drives Shenzhen to invest in labs for Nobel scientists, to create new cures and new products with a

range of yet-unimagined technology. And in their inaugural exhibit, the Design Society – the team in charge of art curation for the Center – brings us something like Internet+Art. The main unifying thread of the exhibit is digitalization, thought it appears in radically different ways. “A lot of designers looked to nature for inspiration,” Chan explains, but now “with digital tools they can produce more complex structures... and generate a deeper understanding of nature, though design.” “Especially 3D rendering and manufacturing,” Tang adds. “Those are very difficult to achieve without digital technology.” That’s clear in the displays of elaborate fashion that would make Lady Gaga blush. Even more so in ‘Research Pavilion 2013-2014.’ In that multi-layered room of curved spaces, designers looked to the beetle for inspiration. Inspecting the complex structure of their elytra (the hard shell protecting delicate wings) the artists envisioned how to build such a complex structure themselves. With the help of digital friends, of course. “Not just the physicality – the shape

and materials – is digitally generated,” Chen explains, “but also the fabrication” thanks to robots that assembled the piece. Elsewhere it feels like the artist is the machine’s assistant, as with ‘Kaleidome.’ The LAAB artists took the shape of a half-sphere and used computers to divide it into irregular cells. Then, with precise measurements and painstaking craft, the artists cut and bent metal to the appropriate shapes to build what their algorithms had wrought. The effect, beautiful as it reflects a shifting array of lights, also sets our minds to wonder how else our convenient machines are adding to our work. Some – like a series of instruments from Meng Qi or the hologram cast upon fog that bursts to flame when touched – are playful fun. Others, like the ‘PolyThread’ canopy that opens the exhibit, cast our minds to contemplation. The alien canopy envelops us as we enter, with lighting that simulates the shift from night to day refracted through the threads. As with the dome, the shape is inspired by cell structures, with computers devising the shapes and stitching them with another machine. There’s some hand stitching as well; a lingering token of the human touch. “Th[is] spirit of digitalization that’s adapting [to newly invented technologies] really represents the spirit of the times we’re in,” Chan tells us. “We’re constantly surrounded by all these changes. From inside [‘PolyThread’] you can feel all around you it’s changing.” When you emerge, the world is a little bit different. Some cutting-edge app or device or algorithm has just emerged, about to change all our lives once again. But maybe, with the engaging works of Minding the Digital, you’ll better understand how it can all work together. Open daily through June 3, 10am-10pm. For details about the curator-guided tour on May 20 or the closing party, visit designsociety.cn.

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MUSIC | ARTS

ARTS | MUSIC

FESTIVAL CROISEMENTS 2018

String Quartet Concert by the Ensemble Philéas Classical Music

Celebrating the Best of French Culture in the PRD

Ensemble Philéas, composed of musicians from Radio France orchestras and leading French soloists, was started by Vincent Dormieu. Audience members at this concert can expect four talented musicians delivering a “rich and demanding repertoire,” according to festival organizers. Ensemble Philéas, like many of the other artists included in this story, will be paying homage to Claude Debussy by presenting ‘Quartet in G Minor Op. 10,’ the French master’s only quartet composition.

By Matthew Bossons

T

he cultural exports of a country are, in many ways, the face it shows to the world and France has not been shy in sharing its diversity, arts and celebrated culinary prowess with people around the globe. In the PRC, we are able to celebrate the very best of France each year with Festival Croisements: a showcase of talented musicians, French films, award-winning exhibits and theater and dance ensembles. Now in its 13th year, the 2018 Festival Croisements began on April 24 and will run until June 24 in 30 Chinese cities. Below, we take a look at a selection of the festival’s fantastique events happening across the Pearl River Delta.

France eMotion Visual Arts A collaboration between Atout France and the Institut Français, France eMotion, le voyage animé aims to “make French cultural tourism a worldwide experience.” The exhibition sits comfortably at the junction between AR, animation and photography and takes observers on a digital journey to 35 of France’s great cultural landmarks, including the Château de Chambord and Mont-Saint-Michel, among others.

Apr 27-May 9; free entry. The Canton Place, Haifeng Lu, Zhujiang Xincheng, Tianhe District, Guangzhou 广州市天河区珠江新城海风路广粤天地 (020-3837 1338) May 18-Jun 17; free entry. Canton First Estate, 333 Golf Road, Nanhai High-tech Industrial Development Zone, Foshan 佛山市南海区高尔夫路333号广佛新世界 (0757-8177 8888)

Concert de l'Orchestre Symphonique de Guangzhou Classical Music

Sun Jun 3, 8pm. Xinghai Concert Hall, 33 Qingbo Lu, Ersha Island, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou 广州市越 秀区二沙岛晴波路33号星海音乐厅 (020-8735 3869) Tue Jun 5, 8pm. Shunde Performing Arts Centre, 6 Bishui Lu, Shunde Qu, Foshan 佛山市顺德新城区碧水路 顺德表演艺术中心

Internationally recognized virtuoso pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet is coming to Guangzhou’s Xinghai Concert Hall on May 12. Thibaudet currently splits his time between France and the United States and will be in Guangzhou to perform a commemoration concert for the centenary of the death of celebrated French composer Claude Debussy.

Sat May 12, 8pm. Xinghai Concert Hall, 33 Qingbo Lu, Ersha Island, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou 广州市越 秀区二沙岛晴波路33号星海音乐厅 (020-8735 3869)

Les Habits de la Lune

Opus 7 Circus

Performance

The seven artists that make up Opus 7 deliver a performance that is a strange yet wonderful combination of circus mayhem and marching band magic. This group is able to deliver a comical and festive atmosphere with their unique musical repertoire, which sits somewhere “between Balkans music and American big-band jazz.” Opus 7 will engage and impress audience members of all ages.

Director Laurent Laffargue’s new visual poem, which was co-written with Frédéric Kristiansson, is a diverse mismatch of opera, theater, fashion, dance and cinema. Les Habits de la Lune tells an impossible love story between the Moon and the Sun, with the former refusing a thousand stars to replace the latter.

Jun 19-20, 8pm. Shenzhen Grand Theater, 5018 Shennan Dong Lu, Luohu District, Shenzhen 深圳市罗 湖区深南东路5018号深圳大剧院 (0755-2590 6000)

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May 5-6, 4:30pm; free entry. Design Society 1, Sea World Culture & Art Center, 1187 Wanghai Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District, Shenzhen 深圳市南 山区蛇口望海路1187号海上世界文化艺 术中心 (0755-2162 5455)

Music Day Concerts Enjoy two days of free concerts in Shunde on June 16 and 17, including performances by electric party-pop group Pony Pony Run Run and pop band Colours in the Street, both from France. Pony Pony Run Run is notable for their catchy fusion of British indie rock and ’90s dance music, which together creates a symphony of energetic electro-pop that will have everyone moving their hips and feet. At barely 20 years old, the members of Colours in the Street have already released their first album and have made waves in the French musical scene with their vibrant pop tunes. In addition, four Chinese musical groups will also hit the stage over the course of the weekend: hey! lily! (黑莉莉), lure (诱导社), Groovers (菊花合唱团) and Mercader (梅卡 德尔). Jun 16-17, 7.30-11pm; free entry. Park Shunfengshan, Nanguo Dong Lu, Daliang, Shunde, Foshan 佛山市顺德大良南国东路顺丰山公园

Forecasting Performance

Debussymania Classical Music

This eclectic performance uses YouTube videos as a fiction trigger to establish a unique storytelling framework. Here is how it works: a performer manipulates a laptop to show footage from YouTube that has been specially selected to meet “the human size scale”; next the performer interacts with the moving 2D images to create a “dizzy hybrid experience,” according to festival organizers. Forecasting was honored with the ‘Special Jury Prize’ at the 56th Mess Festival in Sarajevo.

To mark 100 years since the death of French composer Claude Debussy, Debussymania will see two talented French pianists, Hugues Leclère and Jean-François Zygel, perform well-known Debussy pieces in both solo and duet improvisations. This must-see (or more appropriately: must-hear) concert is intended to introduce Chinese audiences to the magic of Debussy’s music and celebrate the man, who has been hailed as one of the most significant composers of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Tue Jun 16, 4.30pm; free entry. Design Society 1, Sea World Culture & Art Center, 1187 Wanghai Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District, Shenzhen 深圳市南山区蛇 口望海路1187号海上世界文化艺术中心 (0755-2162 5455)

Fri May 25, 8pm. Xinghai Concert Hall, 33 Qingbo Lu, Ersha Island, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou 广州市越秀区二沙岛晴波路33号星海音乐厅 (020-8735 3869)

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ON TIDES OF CHANGE

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The Uncertain Future of China’s Boat Dwellers Text by Daniel Plafker with additional reporting and images by Tristin Zhang

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here’s seven things that a Tanka lives and dies by,” Lin Hongyang tells us. The old man’s back is to the village’s narrow rows of modest houses. His eyes fix on a point beyond the muddy riverbank that forms their doorstep, past the line of battered wooden fishing boats that bob in its ebb, across the quick and murky waters of the coursing Bei River and towards the distant shore. “The weather,” he starts to intone, “including the skies and tides; the place he works – its geography and water quality; the tools of the trade, be they boat, nets or engine; his diligence; his boldness; his skill; and,” perhaps most importantly, “his luck.” Looking around the garbage-strewn stretch of waterfront in northern Foshan, where Shuishang Village sits, it’s hard to say whether Tanka people’s luck might be starting to run out. Lin, the tall, thin, aged man who recites the ‘seven words’ from memory, is certainly one of the fortunate ones. Though born to a fishing family, Lin managed to become one of the few Tanka of his generation to receive a formal education, ultimately securing work as an English teacher at a nearby rural middle school. Together with the proverbial ‘seven words,’ he is also able to recite surprisingly true-to-form English translations of decades-old speeches by Chairman Mao. But despite Lin’s impressive career in village linguistics and countryside education, his boat has always remained close at hand. Said boat, along with several dozen others, sits hauled up on the deep mud with more floating just offshore. The distinctive wooden craft has long been the defining article of Tanka life, a symbolic and literal vessel that has for centuries contained and carried their

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unique, river-bound culture across the tides of time. Professor He Jiaxiang, a researcher at Sun Yat-sen University, has studied Guangdong’s Tanka communities for nearly two decades. He tells us that prior to the establishment of the People’s Republic, there were several hundred thousand such people living on the province’s bays and rivers. Here, as well as in Fujian and Hainan, both of which still contain significant Tanka communities, these boat-dwelling fisherfolk have constituted a sort of segregated sub-caste for countless generations. The origin story of the culture remains as murky as the waters that give it life. But Professor He agrees with the prevailing view that the Tanka people were descended from the ancient Yue inhabitants of today’s South China, later banished to boats by Han invaders. “We can probably regard the Tanka people as the aboriginals – or the first settlers anyway – of this piece of land. That is, of course, until immigrants came from the north,” Professor He explains. “The newcomers later divided the land of Guangdong into three parts. One part was to be inhabited by the socalled Guangfuren – the most powerful immigrants from the north who actually established and still inhabit the city and area of Guangzhou. Another part went to the Chaoshanren, or Teochew people of the east. And still another part went to the Hakka. The aboriginals, who we now know as the Tanka people, actually did not get a share. They were marginalized in this process of resettlement.” Whatever their precise origins, the lives of countless generations of Tanka people has been colored by hardship, poverty, stigma and social exclusion. Modest reforms in the early 18th century abolished some of the legal

My children have already left to find work elsewhere. They come back once a year to help but otherwise the youth here are few. framework for their formal economic marginalization, but the exile of Tanka life to the waterways proved deep-rooted with farming, education and marriage to outside groups remaining beyond reach for most, especially in Cantonesespeaking areas. Like many of China’s poor and dispossessed, the material conditions of the Tanka people began to improve dramatically following Liberation in 1949. Thousands were resettled into land-based housing, communities were targeted for health and literacy programs and new opportunities were made for participation in fields of economic production outside of fishing. Even the name ‘Tanka,’ a fraught term,

which is used in this English text after much critical reflection, began to fall into question. “The term Tanka can really be considered quite derogatory,” Professor He points out, noting centuries of stigma. “Many prefer the more neutral term shuishangren, which simply means ‘people on the water.’” While this latter term emphasizes Tanka people’s humanity and is widely accepted in Hong Kong, it is not in common use on the Chinese mainland and is ultimately too generic to capture the regional and cultural specificity of these unique communities. Meanwhile, as Professor He points out, by fixedly associating Tanka people with the watery realm, shuishangren implies a lack of belonging on the land; as if

the river is somewhere Tanka people are from rather than a place they were displaced to. But despite these semantic debates and impressive material gains, the post-liberation improvement in Tanka people’s lot only went so far. Many were left behind, cultural prejudices remained entrenched and, partly due to not receiving official recognition as an ethnic minority group under the government’s sanctioned taxonomy, the rich water-faring culture, cultivated over centuries of boat-bound life, was given no institutional outlet for expression or preservation and has, in some places, faded.

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Adrift on Troubled Waters

Today, the community is facing yet another period of flux and transformation. Though thousands continue to call the river home, fish populations have collapsed across the province in the face of industrial pollution and overfishing. For the younger generation of Tanka people, who have had the benefit of basic education and some knowledge of Mandarin, the grueling, dirty, cramped conditions of fishing work is an increasingly unattractive prospect. Like so many of their rural peers elsewhere in the country, they are moving in droves to heed the clarion call of migrant wage labor, leaving behind the lines and nets of their parents’ fishing boats for the factory lines and internet of the Pearl River Delta’s sprawling metropolises. Back on the riverbank in Shuishang Village, though, it’s clear that this migratory vanishing act is not an option for everybody. We meet Chen Azai while he is painting his boat. At 83 years old and 5 feet tall, the man’s dark, lined face cuts a sharp silhouette against the grey of the gathering clouds. A lifetime of fishing work has left its mark on his wellworn body. He’s the kind of man that’s unlikely to maneuver for a late-in-life career change. The annual four-month springtime fishing ban, introduced less than a decade ago to try to manage the rapidly diminishing fish population by giving the creatures a chance to spawn without harassment, has just begun and the villagers can be seen in force on the beach, mending their nets, patching their hulls and oiling the boards of their wooden boats to keep out rot. Not far from Chen and his bucket of bright blue paint, his wife chops wood with a ferocity that belies her advanced years. The pair have plied the waters of the Bei River for as long as they’ve lived. “I was born on boats,” the old man tells us in a toothless Cantonese. “I’ve been fishing ever since I was teenager, nearly every day for more than 60 years.” Chen and his wife came here a decade ago from Lubao, about 30 kilometers upriver. By leaving that floating community behind for a house on dry

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land, Chen hoped to secure a better education for his grandchildren. Prone to gummy smiles, the muscular grandfather appears to be taking the move in stride. The boat he is painting was bought then for RMB300 – part of a downsize to a smaller vessel since his housing was otherwise accounted for. Today, the same craft would sell for 10 times that price – and it’s not the only costs that have skyrocketed in Tankacountry in recent years. “The government pays us RMB9 a day per person during the enforced fishing ban to compensate for our lost income, but it’s not nearly enough.” On top of this, Chen’s family gets an additional RMB800 a year in diesel fuel subsidies, a sum that varies greatly based on boatsize and engine power. “Of my four sons,” Chen tells us as a light rain begins to fall, “only two have decided to stay on boats and continue the fishing tradition. The rest have left the area to find work elsewhere. There are fewer and fewer fish than before, it’s not as easy to make a living.” Adding to difficulties, subsidies and lostincome compensation are not paid out till the end of the ban period, leaving families to rely on savings in the interim. “We sell what we can to the wet markets and wholesalers,” Chen explains. Tanka boats have an area of the hull where holes are drilled so fish can be kept alive in transit. “What we can’t, we dry and eat ourselves during the ban.” Chickens and ducks that forage on the bank supplement the local diet and income but Tankas have rarely turned to farming. The steady drizzle that has been falling on our heads while we talk has turned to full downpour but the busy people on the beach appear unfazed, continuing their work of mending and maintenance. “We’re used to working in all weather,” our happy companion shrugs. Finally though, the rain becomes too heavy to ignore and we hurriedly help Chen cover his half painted boat with a plastic tarp before beating a hasty retreat to the couple’s brick-and-mortar home. The narrow lanes of the shoreside village are now veritable rivers of their own and it’s

not easy to keep up with Chen’s hasty shuffle. His wiry, white-haired wife pulls up the rear, heavy axe still in hand. Once we are safe and settled under the roof the family’s modest, landbound home, a notso-well-kept secret about Tanka economic life quickly emerges. For the second time in as many hours, we hear that in the face of the tightening profit margins, rising cost of living and falling fish populations, some in the community are turning to poaching during the fishing ban as a way of making ends meet. “They go out at night,” Chen says between drags of a slightly damp cigarette. “They electrocute the fish with special equipment, then scoop them up quickly with nets.” This method of fishing is illegal any time of year, and criminally so during the fishing ban. If caught, poachers will have their nets and boats confiscated, a devastating blow to a Tanka fisherman. Elsewhere in the village we hear of steep fines and even prison labor sentences imposed. Because electro-poaching doesn’t discriminate between valuable big fish and unsellable small ones – not to mention killing off countless mothers before they have the chance to spawn, it can decimate fish populations and speed the spiral of ecosystem collapse that drives some Tanka fisherfolk to the practice in the first place. It’s no wonder that Chen’s sons, and so many others like them, have chosen to leave these odds behind to try their all-important Tanka luck elsewhere. We leave Shuishang Village and head north, bumping along winding riverbank roads with questions knocking against each other in our heads. With collapsing fish populations and a rapidly modernizing regional economy, how viable is the old life for Tanka people who continue to eke out a boat-bound living? For younger Tanka abandoning ship for work in China’s low-end labor market, what chance is there for meaningful ties to their ancient riverbound heritage? MAY 2018


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Shifting Currents

We hope the town of Datang can offer some answers. This midsized township seat, not far from the border with Qingyuan prefecture, appears no different from any other rural hub. Dingy restaurants, sleepy hardware stores and a noisy market give way to tightly packed brick houses which, in turn, end abruptly at fields of wandering water buffalo. Beyond, the land slopes gently towards a high earthen embankment, erected to keep the river, and all that it contains, safely at bay. It’s a poignant dividing line and the symbolism is hard to miss, because when this grassy berm is crested more than 200 wooden boats and Tanka cooking fires come into view. The Datang community is one of the region’s largest and, unlike in Shuishang, the families here have no house but their watercraft. The modest wooden boats bob in tight clusters like floating relics of another century while cars zipping overhead on a modern freeway bridge and a steady stream of passing steel freighters strike a strange anachronistic contrast. Here, too, the seasonal fishing ban is in full effect, and the long sandy beach remains a hive of activity. Wicker baskets and woven traps are sifted for clams and river snails; speedy, sunbrowned fingers fly through folds of netting, checking for tears; gas generators sputter; welders straddle overturned boats, scattering sparks; steam rises from countless pots as evening meals are prepared and dogs and chickens root among the sand and pebbles. On the far end of the beach we find another Mr. Lin (no relation) squatting by the waterline aside his dissembled engine block, hands coated in motor oil. Though approaching middle age, he’s one of the younger fishermen still living full time in this floating community. “Very few people under the age 40 have stayed in Datang to make their living as fisherfolk,” the busy man tells us. Lin holds our gaze casually while he speaks but the flying wrench in his hand doesn’t slow for an instant. “It’s better to have a job in the city – the income is more stable, the conditions are safer and you have better access to services.” It’s easy to see what he means. The scream of a nearby generator provides some of the floating homes with electricity, (the price of gas is a constant source of conversation) and children can row to a nearby school, but lodging is

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cramped and the work is hard. “My children have already left to find work elsewhere,” he states frankly. “They come back once a year to help me with the busiest part of the fishing season but otherwise the youth here are few.” Lin says he hopes his grandchildren will get a good enough education to be able to avoid this kind of work altogether. His understandable desires highlight a challenging dilemma for the waterbound culture’s survival. Though widespread and ancient, the Tanka way of life lacks official recognition as an ethnic nationality and the associated benefits that come with it. Though the traditions and customs of Tanka life are rich and varied, they are also tied very closely to fishing as a field of economic production and the houseboat as a place of dwelling. When a young Tanka person leaves these things behind, and assimilates into a land-dwelling life (the lack of a distinct language or dialect, in contrast to other Guangdong subcultures, makes this more possible), what is there to stop her from leaving her Tanka identity behind, too? Centuries of stigma and discrimination make many reluctant to volunteer their Tanka heritage when entering the formalized workforce. Even Henry Fok, a billionaire and politician ranked by Forbes as Hong Kong’s ninth richest tycoon, only rarely admitted to humble Tanka beginnings. One young student we met on our journey along the Bei River, two generations removed from fishing life, thought of his grandfather as Tanka but not himself. As the Pearl River Delta continues its march from global manufacturing hub to future-tech megalopolis, it’s easy to see this well-worn patch of the region’s cultural fabric fading away altogether.

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Finding Safe Harbor The story of the Hong Kong’s Tanka community may offer some solutions to the dilemmas of those on the mainland. As in other Cantonese-speaking areas, the lives of Hong Kong’s Tanka people were long characterized by stigma, poverty and exclusion from landbased life. Their position in the island’s harbors, however, made them some of the first local people the British colonizers encountered and their profound alienation from their shoredwelling neighbors made some more than happy to profit from collaboration with the European newcomers. Many accounts indicate that, due to alleged unwillingness on the part of mainstream Cantonese prostitutes to service foreign patrons, Tanka women enjoyed a nearmonopoly on sex work with Hong Kong’s Westerners throughout the 19th century. Some maintain that this preference was so strong that many of the territory’s ‘Eurasian’ population today are the product of these early commercial encounters. Despite these enterprising adaptations, conditions remained poor in Hong Kong’s ‘floating villages’ and, through much of the 20th century, low literacy, poor health and overcrowding continued to plague the community. As maritime regulations grew tighter and the fishing industry became increasingly formalized, Hong Kong’s government began to corral Tanka households behind newly erected ‘typhoon shelters’ to keep them off the seas. In the 1960s and 1970s militant political movements, Catholic missionary work and infectious disease alike found fertile ground in these aquatic ghettos. Hong Kong’s Tanka people needed a way to make a living outside of fishing that was still rooted to their heritage and deep connection to the region’s bays and MAY 2018

harbors. The community fell upon an unlikely solution: tourism. Today, the quaint wooden houseboats of Hong Kong are more closely associated by the land-dwelling class with pleasant weekend cruises and floating seafood lunches than insurgent leftist militancy and tight-packed squalor. Zhu Yanping, a lifelong resident of her houseboat in Aberdeen on the island’s southern coast, has even managed to learn Mandarin from ferrying mainland tourists across the narrow strait to Ap Lei Chau. She’s visited distant relatives in Tanka communities in various parts of Guangdong and recognizes that Hong Kong’s Tanka live a very different way of life. “Shuishangren on the mainland,” Zhu tells us, using Hong Kong’s preferred term, “are mostly making a living as fisherfolk. Here in Hong Kong, many of us are now using our boats for tourism. We park our boats here and, all day long, we try to recruit tourists to come aboard for tours of the harbor. That’s been our business since I was young: ferrying tourists. We’ve never once gone out to sea for fishing.” The modest rowing vessel received an engine when Zhu, now 66, was still a muscular youth. Both she and her sister promptly obtained pilots’ licenses. The community here is one that’s used to moving with the times. Zhu’s children moved ashore at the first opportunity and now have families of their own. “They’ve all been educated,” she explains, “it’s what we want for the next generation, we want them to go ashore and at least see what it’s like.” But her landlubbing sons still visit their mother’s boat frequently. Public

transportation is close at hand and the harbor-dwelling generation is able to live in sanitary, dignified conditions without having to choose between abandoning their children or heritage. Meanwhile, art-installations in the vicinity pay tribute to Tanka culture rather than sweeping it under the rug. It feels like a positive model for a balanced transition to a new mode of economic participation that doesn’t require cultural traditions be thrown overboard. But Professor He warns of the pitfalls of ‘Disneyfication,’ cautioning against the lure of packaging a culture into easily digestible performances that can be consumed by curious tourists. “Nowadays, in Zhongshan and in other areas here in Guangdong you can find a kind of a rehearsed version of the traditional way of life, demonstrated in a touristic way. You can listen to songs that are alleged to be sung by Tanka people. I really sense a kind of danger in this; in the commercialization or commodification of traditions.” While there are more promising and optimistic examples of adaptation to a touristic economy, namely restaurants and other food-related initiatives that center fishing as a traditional practice while bringing higher value to its output, Professor He’s concerns seem well-founded. Indeed, the difficulties in reconciling cultural preservation with ongoing economic viability may come down to something even more fundamental. “Tanka people’s marginalization,” the professor explains “can be traced back to the traditional emphasis placed on agriculture. In the long past, agriculture meant stability, immobility. And the Tanka people went from place to place,

they were always on the move, and they were not easy to control. Their traditional way of life was actually in sharp contrast to the dominant forces at that time.” While agriculture is no longer as central to China’s society, it’s certainly true that an untethered, difficult to control population is neither desirable nor particularly profitable for the dominant forces in China today. Unless these contradictions can be resolved, it’s

difficult to imagine traditional Tanka culture flourishing in an undiluted way in the years to come. Thinking back to Lin Hongyang’s ‘seven words’ on the riverbank, it’s striking how many of the old standbys are fading fast. The previously reliable weather is, in the age of cataclysmic climate change, no longer so predictable. The waterways, after damming and ongoing pollution, are less recognizable than

ever. Tanka people continue to give up the tools of their trade, selling or abandoning boats and nets for new work in the new economy, while the all-important skills of the fishing profession find few inheritors in the younger generation. It seems that the future of the Tanka people will have to rely on the remaining three: their diligence, their boldness, and – perhaps more than anything – their luck. MAY 2018


COMM UNITY

FEATURE

MAKING A SPLASH

Meet the Folks Working to Save Shenzhen’s Coral Reefs By Matthew Bossons

Dirty Dancing

Shenzhen salsa beginner classes, p46

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TCM Goes Menstrual P48

n preparation for writing this story, we conducted an unscientific survey and asked friends, family and colleagues to share the first word that came to mind when thinking about the waters off the Pearl River Delta. We received a variety of answers: the most commonly mentioned word was ‘polluted,’ followed by ‘dirty,’ though on a more positive note, ‘dolphins’ made an appearance in the mix. There is definitely truth to the notion that the waters off our coast suffer from pollution, both industrial and otherwise. Particularly troubling is the sheer amount of plastic that has found its way from the megalopolises of the Pearl River Delta into the ocean. According to a recent article by South China Morning Post, participants in the esteemed Volvo Ocean Race – which passed through the region earlier this year – were surprised how far from land floating junk could be found. Floating rubbish combined with unsustainable fishing methods, land reclamation activities and the occasional typhoon, has put our region’s coral reefs – which are in many regards the backbone of the marine ecosystem – under threat. At the forefront of the effort to protect Shenzhen’s reefs is Dive for Love, an organization initiated in 2012 by Doyouhike.com with support from local dive enthusiasts and the government of Dapeng District. Formally registered under the name Shenzhen Dapeng Coral Conservation Volunteer Federation in 2014, the group undertakes a number of initiatives aimed at protecting the city’s coastal ecosystem and raising public awareness about the plight of Shenzhen’s reefs. Most notable of the group’s projects is the coral conservation station in Da’ao Bay, where fragments of broken – but still living – coral are collected from the ocean floor and attached to a coral nursery, where they can recover. Dive for Love also works to rid Shenzhen’s reefs of garbage and abandoned fishing nets, according to Zhou Yan, a part-

time coral conservation and restoration program worker with Dive for Love. In 2017, the organization removed 225 kilograms of trash from the sea over the course of six cleanups. “Coral restoration and conservation is the main focus of Dive4Love’s work,” Zhou told That’s via email. “It is observed that with the restoration of the coral community, marine life also recovers with increased diversity.” In addition to underwater cleanup efforts, Dive for Love places importance on community education, which is achieved through the Dive for Love Classroom Training Program. The initiative aims to raise awareness among Dapeng’s students about the importance of marine protection and has been rolled out district-wide in both primary and secondary schools. Last year alone, 70 instructors delivered 130 classes to over 6,500 students. Another aspect of Dive for Love’s community outreach involves engaging with local fisherman in an effort to motivate them to protect the marine ecosystem on which they rely to for their living. “Dive for Love constantly helps and motivates local fishermen to protect coastal ecosystems via transforming traditional fishing methods into more sustainable practices,” said Zhou. Some of the fisherfolk have even joined the volunteer ranks of Dive for Love. According to Zhou, six Shenzhen fishermen

now volunteer as guards to prevent fishermen and boaters in the area from dropping anchor into the coral nursery. If you too would like to get involved with Dive for Love, we should note that volunteers are welcome, although underwater helpers are required to have a scuba diving certification. Learn more about Dive for Love on WeChat (ID: dive4love)

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COMM UNITY

E D I T O R . P R D @ U R B A N A T O M Y. C O M

AROUND TOWN

DEAR JAMIE

SOCIAL SKILLS

Sitting the Month

Shenzhen Salsa Beginner Classes

Dear Jamie, I’m an overseas Chinese man who was born and raised in Los Angeles and moved back to China only two years ago. I now live in Huizhou with my wife, whose family all live together with us, and we are currently expecting our first child. It is an exciting time to say the least, but there is one minor issue: my wife’s family is very traditional and are insisting that she not wash for a full month following our child’s birth. I find this extremely repulsive and have broached the subject with my wife, who has repeatedly shut me down. I need to make it clear to her that not showering for a month is not an option and that I don’t want to share a bed with someone actively accumulating a month’s worth of BO. What should I do? -Repulsed in Huizhou Dear Repulsed, It’s a clash of cultures, a battle of the baths! You, sir, might be sh*t out of luck: your wife’s body ultimately belongs to her, and as such, you really can’t force her to shower if she doesn’t want to. When your child is born, your wife will’ve been carrying said child inside her body for nine months and if she doesn’t want to shower I’d recommend sucking it up and supporting her decision. I realize this is probably not the answer you were looking for, so I’ll offer another suggestion: maybe try and compromise with her. Instead of insisting she shower, maybe point out that many Chinese women nowadays refrain from washing their hair during the postpartum month, while still washing their bodies. Just a thought, and congrats on the little one! -Jamie Smells a-brewing and trouble a-stewing? Email Jamieinchina@outlook.com.

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TAKE FIVE

Lessons from the Frontlines of Hospitality Richard Liu is a man who knows hospitality. The industry veteran has worked at all levels of the tough and competitive hotel business – from bellhop to general manager – and has learned a thing or two along the way. Now, having arrived as the new GM of DoubleTree by Hilton Guangzhou, this master hotelier and tea aficionado is hoping to draw on a lifetime of experience to leave his mark on one of the city’s most coveted accommodations. We sat down with Liu to get his two cents on challenging guests, social media and going the extra mile.

our promotions rapidly, but social media can also be destructive. Take the recent viral report on the bad hygiene of China’s five-star hotels. We have to make use of these tools but also be sure to always put our best face forward.

From my standpoint as a hospitality employee, there’s no such thing as ‘the most difficult’ guest situation. It’s how you cope with these situations that matters. Through solving problems for hotel guests, you will earn their loyalty and even friendship.

What does it take to be successful in the hospitality business?

What is the most difficult guest situation that you have had to deal with?

How do you view social media's role in the hospitality industry? Social media is a double-edged sword for the hotel industry. On the one hand, it lets us spread

If you go to a hotel as a guest, what’s the most important element you pay attention to? It depends on the purpose of my trip. Hygiene, privacy and detailed service are fundamental. If it’s a business hotel, executive facilities come first; for a resort hotel, facilities tailored for children become a significant priority. Diligence, sacrifice and a willingness to learn. What is it that makes your current employer, Doubletree by Hilton Hotel Guangzhou, really stand out?

First of all, it’s the location of the hotel being in the heart of old Guangzhou, where different aspects of traditional Cantonese culture converge. We’re also in close proximity to the popular

shopping street – Beijing Lu. It’s very convenient for our guests to experience local customs, which is a priority for many of them. Secondly, it’s a fitting hotel for the area, delivering five-star service that isn’t too over-the-top. It’s no surprise we stay busy – throughout the year we’ve seen a 90 percent room occupancy rate. Finally, DoubleTree by Hilton Guangzhou offers a unique personal touch with meticulous attention to detail, whether it’s our well-received welcome cookie or our xiguan-inspired conference room. Responses have been edited for clarity and length.

It was a love of salsa that brought French expat Patrice Guillemound to teach his curious friends in early 2017. What started as casual bi-weekly dance lessons grew as friends of friends joined the flock. Then Guillemound’s wife gave birth to their child and their teacher flew out of the picture. But before leaving, he brought Oswaldo Loor into the picture. The Ecuador native now runs the group, with a rotating pool of teachers: Adrian Esquivel and Amga Gamboa (both Colombian), Daniel Canosa (Spanish) and Jenny Wu (Chinese). “All of them are really good dancers and very patient to teach beginners,” Loor tells us. As the name makes clear, the Sunday classes are open to everyone who wants to learn salsa – or other Latin dances like bachata and kizomba – in a judgment-free space where participants can stumble toward more elegant heights. “When I started learning salsa,” Loor reminisces with a laugh, “I was so bad! The teacher asked me to come earlier for extra lessons. So there we were, dancing in a club with all these people watching me dance with this guy, when I was supposed to be dancing with a girl. It was so embarrassing!” But those looking to add more salsa to their life shouldn’t worry; there should usually be a partner of the preferred gender on hand to practice. Of course it’s best to bring a partner of your own – it’s easier to master the steps that way – but most people find a new one each time. “Usually people come alone or with a friend of the same gender,” Loor explains, “so it’s a great place for meeting new friends.” Athletic shoes and comfortable clothing are all you need for the outdoor practice in Civic Center, every Sunday 2-4pm. Join them any given Sunday … at least until the weather gets too hot for anyone to enjoy.

To join, connect on WeChat (ID ‘osloor’) to join the WeChat group where the group exchanges info about classes, upcoming parties and about salsa festivals in other cities or abroad.

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EDUCAT ION | COMMUNIT Y

COMMUNITY | HE ALT H

CHINESE MEDICINE GOES MENSTRUAL A Personalized Approach to Women’s Health

DEGREE DEVALUATION

A University Education May No Longer Guarantee Success By Lena Gidwani

By Jonathan Hanlon

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raditional Chinese medicine (TCM), the contemporary use of historic healing treatments developed in China over several millennia, is often dismissed in the West as esoteric or the stuff of hokey superstition. In China however, this complete medical system, which is flexible enough to manage complex, modern medical problems, is considered mainstream. TCM hospitals abound and many Western medical hospitals include a TCM department, where TCM doctors practice alongside Western medical specialists. Common treatments like herbal medicine, massage and acupuncture, together with more specialized therapies like moxibustion (the burning of herbs to warm pressure points) and guasha (a deep friction technique to relieve muscle tension and pain), can be used to treat a wide range of health problems. As in Western medicine, the aim of these TCM treatments is not to cure pathologies directly but rather, to stimulate the body’s self-healing functions. When paired with individualized advice on exercise and diet, they form a holistic, context-specific approach to overcoming disorder. Nowhere are these principles more essential than in the field of women’s health and gynecology – a major area of my TCM practice. Whether it’s an irregular cycle, heavy periods,

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infertility, menopausal hot flashes or the physical and emotional challenges that arise from pregnancy, women’s health challenges can come from plethora of sources. Because it seeks to treat the root causes of medical disorder rather than merely ease symptoms, TCM has a good track record in treating these complaints effectively. Take period pain as an example. Though common enough, this ailment can come from any number of complex causes specific to each individual. Perhaps the internal environment is too cold, which causes contraction and pain; or maybe the energy needed to move blood smoothly is deficient; or, alternatively, stress, diet and exercise could be the main culprits. If a standardized treatment were applied, only 10-20 percent of women would be likely to experience relief. Rather, treatments must be tailored to specific health conditions, informed by a knowledge of a person’s overall wellbeing. What is your menstrual cycle like and what is its history? What is the timing and

quality of your pain? What about your current digestive function, emotional health and sleep quality? When applied in this complete context, TCM has the power to offer effective outcomes with lasting benefits. TCM approaches are natural, safe, effective and deeply rooted in thousands of years of history. They can be used on their own, or in combination with Western medical treatments. The ultimate aim, of course, is for a gradual improvement in health and overall quality of life. If you or someone you love is troubled by women’s health problems – or any others – TCM may be the solution. Jonathan Hanlon is a TCM doctor at United Family Guangzhou Clinic. He uses acupuncture and Chinese herbal medicine to help people enjoy healthy, pain-free lives. United Family Guangzhou Clinic, 1/F, Annex, PICC Bldg., 301 Guangzhou Dadao Zhong, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou 越秀区广州大道中301号人保大厦南 塔副楼首层

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ith high school exit exams just around the corner, there is a common tendency at this time of the year for students about to graduate to reflect and refocus on what matters most. And from what we’ve heard, most of them have one thing on their minds: university. The past few decades have seen unprecedented growth in high school graduates saddling up and heading off to university. We’re told that earning a degree expands our minds, widens access to higher-paying jobs and boosts the economy. But an alarming and seemingly unhinged ideology is brewing out there: university degrees could very well just be a big waste of your money and time. Why, you ask? Think of it like inflation, just academically. All things equal, if an organization has a choice to hire someone with a qualification or someone without one, they'll more likely hire the person with one. This puts pressure on everyone to get a degree. Demand breeds supply, so universities rise to the occasion, popularizing and commercializing products and services to ensure easier access and more opportunities, all while charging more and more each year. The popularization and commercialization of the degree, led by those seeking to set themselves apart from the rest, eventually makes (almost) everyone look the same. And once everyone has a degree, the value of

having one inherently goes down. The reality is thus clear: a larger supply of graduates in the job market causes academic inflation and credential devaluation, arguably making a qualification barely worth the paper it’s printed on, especially with rising rates of job cuts and redundancy due to automation and other advances. Bryan Caplan, economics professor and author of a provocative book The Case Against Education: Why the Education System Is a Waste of Time and Money, brazenly concurs with the above-mentioned notion, cheekily questioning the usefulness of degrees and whether it’s even worth getting one. While many disagree with him, there is something immensely refreshing about his perceptions concerning the disparity between academic offerings and job opportunities, and the value of university. That being said, progressive decisionmakers at top firms, including multinationals like Apple, Google, Ernst and Young and PricewaterhouseCoopers, among numerous others, have recently dropped a bombshell: they’ve discarded degree requirements as a pre-filter for talent altogether, choosing to assess candidates on merit with psychometric, aptitude and performance-based testing. According to Ernst and Young, they “found no evidence to conclude that previous success in higher education correlated with future success in subsequent professional qualifications undertaken.”

Individuals like Steve Jobs, Mark Zuckerberg, Bill Gates, James Cameron and Sir Richard Branson are among those who gave up a degree to find success down a different path. If the aforementioned companies are progressive enough to realize that there are better ways to find top talent, and these folks are brave enough to take the less conventional route to fame and fortune, then you too should ask yourself: why are you going to university? Now, don’t think for a moment that we’re disputing the utility of a university degree. Most jobs these days require a degree and, even though you may be bogged down by student debt, the more qualified you are and the more practical skills you have, the more likely you are to command a bigger paycheck. Let’s leave this controversial debate here with this caveat: while a degree is important and counts for plenty, it’s what you gain while earning that degree that matters most, whether it’s at a top Ivy League institution, vocational training center or apprenticeship. In a world flooded with devalued credentials, the goal should be to emerge from education with a nurtured and expanded mind rich with creativity and practical know-how; to find inventive, inspired ways to stand out from the pack. These are the outcomes that matter, not the path one takes to reach them.

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CITY SCENES REBEL Fighting Championship Press Conference Held at Conrad Guangzhou (Supported by )

Heavy-hitting claims were made and heated words exchanged at the press conference for REBEL Fighting Championship 8: A Warrior’s Return, held on the afternoon of April 12 at the Conrad Guangzhou. Three highly anticipated bouts will take place on May 26 at Guangzhou’s Tianhe Sports Center, pitting some of the best MMA fighters in China against their skilled, international counterparts: Australia’s Chris Morris and Brazil’s Marcelo Tenorio, along with Konstantin Linnik of Ukraine, will face off against Wu Chengjie, Liu Wenbo and Wang Sai.

New Zealand Chef Robert Oliver Food Sharing (Supported by ) With the support of the New Zealand Consulate in Guangzhou, celebrated chef Robert Oliver shared a selection of his delicacies with over 100 guests at Guangzhou’s The Happy Monk Kingold location. Robert Oliver is a New Zealand chef who owns restaurants in New York, Miami, Las Vegas and Sydney. In 2013, Oliver released his book Mea’ai Samoa: Recipes and Stories from the Heart of Polynesia, which won the ‘Best TV Chef Cookbook in the World 2013’ award at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in Beijing.

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2018 Interchamber Networking Drinks Successfully Held in Shenzhen (Supported by ) The successful 2018 Interchamber Networking Drinks, organized by the French Chamber of Commerce and Industry in China (CCIFC) and the Australian Chamber, with support from the European chambers of Germany, Great Britain, Spain, Benelux and Italy, was held on April 3 at the Intercontinental Hotel in Shenzhen. Over 170 attendees gathered in Alenha restaurant to meet new friends and partners while indulging in a charming buffet dinner.


PRD FOCUS T

his year, 23 Art Space joined hands with Lingnan Tiandi in Foshan to officially establish the Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macao Bay Area Cultural Venture Cooperation Platform to integrate domestic and international resources. The Foshan art space formally debuted last month, with an exhibition featuring product designs.

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his year’s Festival Croisement started in April and offers the opportunity to discover the best of France. The celebration aims to promote the diffusion of cultural industries and to allow French and Chinese artists to share their inspirations.

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n April 7, a fashion show was held at Yajule Center, an event that showcased an array of fashionable pieces created by Q by Alice Yu 2018 SS. Ahead-of-the-curve designers were able to present their creative new collections at the show, which coincided with the launch party for Alice Yu Couture.

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he British School of Guangzhou’s Shoebox Appeal event generated over 50 gifts for Huiling School for Children in Need. Teachers, students and parents delivered the donated parcels, which contained toys, crafts, books and games.

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hina Hotel, a Marriott Hotel recently participated in Journey Week, a brand-promotion event held from April 16-20. Journey Week is part of a series of events held at hotels across the AsiaPacific region designed to motivate existing personnel while also attracting new talents.

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ocated in Zhongshan’s Gangkou town, Marriott International’s luxury hotel brand Le Méridien Hotel & Resorts will soon open its second hotel in Guangdong, after it graced Huizhou with a magnificent seaside establishment last spring. At a recently-held recruitment event, more that 200 job postings at the new hotel were offered, which attracted many individuals looking for work in the hospitality industry.

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CRÈME DE LA CRÈME

& EVENTS

Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018 Revealed

IN SHENZHEN

By Cristina Ng

Weird Eats of the PRD

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t the end of March, Asia’s culinary elite gathered at the Wynn Palace in Macau to name Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. It was quite the to-do and China managed to land 12 restaurants on this year’s list – one more than 2017. The two mainland restaurants to make the list include Tony Lu’s upscale Chinese vegetarian restaurant, FuHeHui, which climbed 18 places to make the cut at No. 30 and Shanghai’s Ultraviolet, helmed by Paul Pairet, which held strong at No. 8. No mainland restaurants outside of Shanghai made the cut. Hong Kong had more movement with nine restaurants on the list. Greater China is not in the top five this year as Richard Ekkebus’ contemporary French eatery, Amber, has dropped from fourth to seventh place. 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana and Lung King Heen also placed lower in the list than in 2017. Danny Yip’s Contemporary Cantonese destination, The Chairman, jumped to No. 22 from No. 47 earning this year’s Highest Climber Award. Ever-popular Ronin also climbed up four spots to No. 41 and FrenchJapanese, Ta Vie moved from No. 33 to No. 16. New entrants included purveyors of homey French-Italian cuisine, Neighborhood, as well as the French bisto,

‘Cockroach’ on the menu, p58

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WE TRIED IT

FOOD, DRINK

Paulener Extends to CBD P61

Belon, opened in 2016 by the Black Sheep Group. Two Michelin-starred Caprice (in the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong) is back on the list at No. 46 after a two-year hiatus. Their pastry chef, Nicolas Lambert, was also named Asia’s Best Pastry Chef. Over in Macau, where the awards were held, the Cantonese fine dining outlet Jade Dragon was awarded a spot at No. 35, three spots lower than last year. It is currently the territory’s only ranked restaurant. The World’s 50 Best awards have been subject to scrutiny due to gender representation and yet only two women made the Asia regional list this year. Bee Satongun is the 2018 recipient of the Asia’s Best Female Chef award, itself a hotly contested award. Her restaurant, Paste, entered the list at No. 31. The only other woman represented this year, also based in Bangkok, Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava shares the No. 37 slot with her husband, Dylan ‘Lan’ Jones. The 2018 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list is sponsored by San Pellegrino and Acqua Panna and run by William Reed Business Media who also run The World’s 50 Best Restaurants and Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. This year’s sixth annual regional list was decided by “more than 300 restaurant industry experts in Asia.”

Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants for 2018: No. 1 Gaggan, Bangkok, Thailand No. 2. Den, Tokyo, Japan No. 3 Florilège, Tokyo, Japan No. 4 Sühring, Bangkok, Thailand No. 5 Odette, Singapore No. 6 Narisawa, Tokyo, Japan No. 7 Amber, Hong Kong, China No. 8 Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet, Shanghai, China No. 9 Nihonryoi RyuGin, Tokyo, Japan No. 10 Namh, Bangkok, Thailand No. 11 Mingles, Seoul, Korea No. 12 Burnt Ends, Singapore No. 13 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Hong Kong, China No. 14 Le Du, Bangkok, Thailand No. 15 Raw, Chinese Taipei No. 16 Ta Vie, Hong Kong, China No. 17 La Cime, Osaka, Japan No. 18 Mume, Chinese Taipei No. 19 Indian Accent, New Delhi, India No. 20 L’Effervescence, Tokyo, Japan No. 21 Locavore, Bali, Indonesia No. 22 The Chairman, Hong Kong, China No. 23 Waku Ghin, Singapore No. 24 Lung King Heen, Hong Kong, China No. 25 Ministry of Crab, Colombo, Sri Lanka No. 26 Jungsik, Seoul, Korea No. 27 Sushi Saito, Tokyo, Japan No. 28 Il Ristorante Luca Fantin, Tokyo, Japan No. 29 Les Amis, Singapore No. 30 Fu He Hui, Shanghai, China No. 31 Paste, Bangkok, Thailand No. 32 Neighborhood, Hong Kong, China No. 33 Eat Me,Bangkok, Thailand No. 34 Hajime, Osaka, Japan No. 35 Jade Dragon, Macau, China No. 36 Corner House, Singapore No. 37 Bo.Lan, Bangkok, Thailand No. 38 Quintessence, Tokyo, Japan No. 39 Issaya Siamese Club, Bangkok, Thailand No. 40 Belon, Hong Kong, China No. 41 Ronin, Hong Kong, China No. 42 TocToc, Seoul, Korea No. 43 The Dining Room at the House of Sathorn, Bangkok, Thailand No. 44 Jaan, Singapore No. 45 Nihonbashi, Colombo, Sri Lanka No. 46 Caprice, Hong Kong, China No. 47 Shoun RyuGin, Chinese Taipei No. 48 La Maison de la Nature Goh, Fukuoka, Japan No. 49 Wasabi by Morimoto, Mumbai, India No. 50 Whitegrass, Singapore WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 55


E D I T O R . P R D @ U R B A N A T O M Y. C O M

GRAPE VINE

WHAT’S ON WAIMAI

Mr. Zheng

There’s nothing quite like liangpi – chilled, translucent noodles doused in flavorful sauce – for South China’s summer months. In case you don’t have a street-side stall handy, Mr. Zheng delivers no-mess noodles at reasonable prices. A RMB16, vegetarian-friendly serving of liangpi – which includes julienned cucumbers, carrots and cabbage – comes with a separately-packaged sauce of your choice. Simply rip open a couple packets and drizzle for instant tangy, tongue-tingling spiciness or a milder sesame flavor. Spongy chunks of gluten – mianjin – sop up extra sauce and also add a chewy texture to the mix. For those craving meat, Mr. Zheng serves up another Shaanxi specialty: roujiamo (RMB12). The restaurant’s rendition of fatty stewed pork inside a flat white bun is solid, if a little soggy on delivery. Individual restaurants in the chain – which number 33 in Shenzhen – offer some variation, but one other menu item that never fails to please is the yogurt

THE SCANDALOUS SCOOP

We’re Digging:

Mother-child brunch deals plus Mexican feasts thanks to two timely holidays; a new and improved fusion menu at fine dining/clubbing destination BOA (page 62); another cool F&B mash-up in the form of bar-clubspeakeasy Ciyuntang (page 63); and Shenzhen cabs getting stocked with snacks in yet another startup scheme.

We’re Done with:

The departure of ‘Szechuan’ and gongbao McNugget dipping sauces at Chinese McDonald’s locations nationwide; Glass Hammer’s months-long menu makeover stalled and interrupted by a kitchen renovation; a restaurantdwelling rodent taking a near-suicidal leap into diners’ hot pot in Shenzhen; and having to set our networking party back to mid-May – we’ll make it up to you, though, with lowered prices and free flow wine all night long.

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(RMB10). A modest cup of the liquid-y stuff is sprinkled with crisped rice, dried fruit and seeds, making for a parfait-like concoction that’s also perfect for hot days.

Price: RMB16-26 Good for: cold noodles, roujiamo Search for: 凉皮先生 Available on: Baidu Waimai, Dianping, Eleme, Koubei, Meituan

OLDIE BUT GOODIE

Sùgo

Some of Shenzhen’s finest pizza – crunchy, well-baked crusts beneath authentic Italian flavors – are found at Sùgo, tucked in its verdant corner northeast of Sea World. Fine imported parma ham is the star of the Contadina (RMB99), with other combos like Hawaiian, veggie or durian available till 10.30pm. If the space is small – two tables inside, with room for another 14 people on the vine-draped patio – it’s carefully constructed. Wind blows easy with no windows in the way, while the greenery and the lighting make for a charming, romantic setting. The small staff – just owner Weiling and two young men – hustle those crisp pizzas out of Italian-made ovens (electric, but quite suitable) and carry over the Aperol, Prosecco and other Italian tipples. Weiling’s passion for food was a lifetime in the making. “When I was nine,” she tells us, “my mother worked in the canteen. I asked to get involved, but China faced hunger at that time so we didn’t have enough dough. She’d just give me this tiny piece to work.” But that wasn’t enough.

“To convince my mom to let me get involved, I jumped into the mud and practiced [shaping it like] dough again and again, until I was qualified to work the dough. My mom laughed and told me now I’m overqualified.” She pulled herself out of the mud, of course, and into a career that took her to Italy, on and off, for 17 years. She discovered love and heartbreak, found a spiritual home, and channeled her passion into five months of training with pizza maestros of Milan. Then in 2013, the Shekou space opened up and her prayers were answered. With such a small staff and space, Sùgo relies on high-quality ingredients from Italy’s De Cecco rather than roll out the pasta themselves. But expert preparation and a careful appreciation of the cuisine creates dishes where Italian expats can find a welcome taste of home.

Open daily, 10am-10.30pm. No. 116, Bldg. 3, Nanhai E-Cool, 6 Xinghua Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District 南山区蛇口兴华路6号南海意库3栋116铺 (2667 2667)

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F E AT UR E | E AT & DR INK

E AT & DR INK | F E AT UR E

WEIRD SNACKS OF THE PRD Take a Walk on the Wild Side

Cow’s Three-Star

By Tristin Zhang

Don’t let the genteel name fool you – this time-tested dish is made up of less than glamorous ingredients. Composed of a cow’s heart, kidneys and liver, ‘cow’s three star’ is a soup for those who like their viscera with a side of scallion and pickled cabbage. It’s become so popular over the years that this medley of innards can be found at nearly any Cantonese restaurant in the city, but to find the dish’s authentic roots one must make a gutsy pilgrimage to Guangzhou's historic Xiguan neighborhood of Liwan.

It’s widely known that eaters here in Guangdong rarely shy away from unusual bites. From pig guts to pupae, eating out in the PRD can often feel like an exercise in one-upmanship. This month, we challenge our readers to take a walk on the culinary wild side with these out-of-the-ordinary street snacks.

Fish Skins Popular along the length of China’s coast from Shandong in the north down to Guangdong in the south, snacking on fish skins is a deep-rooted tradition. These piscine pelts can be found at back alley eateries throughout Guangzhou’s more historic quarters. The crispy, deep-fried version is considered more approachable, while the chewy, cold rendition –tossed with scallions, ginger, soy sauce and peanuts – can be a challenge to the palate for first-timers.

Pig Blood Curd In the 1990s, old women carrying wooden containers of homemade pig’s blood soup were a common sight on Guangzhou’s streets. Known in Guizhou as ‘blood tofu,’ the curdled treat can be eaten on its own or as flavor boosting addition to hot pot and congee. Steeped in a peppery soup and seasoned with diced scallions, this is iron-rich Southern comfort food at its best.

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Pig’s Trotter with Ginger This time-honored stew is said to have come into existence more than 600 years ago during the Ming Dynasty. Believed to be of great benefit to women after childbirth, it’s often given to relatives and neighbors as well as new mothers to celebrate the arrival of a newborn. The knuckles of a pig’s trotter are marinated with vinegar and ginger before being stewed with eggs and brown sugar until rubbery.

Water Cockroaches There are some lines that, even in the name of journalism, we are not willing to cross. While we have not sampled this highly nutritious snack first hand, some Guangdong natives will swear by so-called ‘water cockroaches’ (in fact, a member of the beetle family) as a protein-packed, low-fat treat that is also eaten Mexico, Japan and Thailand. In Guangzhou, it’s usually found in seafood restaurants where it is fried with salt and pepper or cooked with wasabi.

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NE W R E S TAUR A N T | E AT & DR INK

E AT & DR INK | NE W R E S TAUR A N T S

WANN LOUNGE Peak Chic By Adam Robbins

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henzhen can’t be stopped. Every day it seems like ground breaks for skyscrapers – the second tallest ever is starting in Longgang, and seven 300+ meter towers now stand in One Shenzhen Bay on ground dredged forth from the sea. Though still unfinished, the area is already filling with a new generation ready to enjoy the city’s finest food, drink and service. On the second floor of the T3 Block, they find a destination in the agreeably hip Wann Lounge. It’s the first endeavor from an owner who made a fortune in steel before moving to design studios and his true passion:

GREEN BOWL Fit Fodder Fusion By Winnie Jin

The Place Take note, health-conscious Shenzheners: there’s a new restaurant serving up guiltfree Chinese and fusion foods. Green Bowl describes itself as a ‘diet brand’ promoting “healthy organic food with Chinese taste.” The restaurant is nestled on the eighth floor of a Software Industry Base building aiming to be a high-end apartment complex for the hip, young tech workers in the area.

food. The self-trained chef demands the highest quality ingredients from abroad: Spanish ham, Wagyu beef, Italian spirits and more decorate the menu – more importantly, they’re used wisely and served by an English-speaking staff of considerate manners. There’s elevated snacks to start, like tasty spring rolls (RMB38) and a range of tapas (RMB38-78), with Spanish ham, and the indulgently rich duck and mango chutney as our favorites. But there’s a full range of luxurious entrees like 10-hour sous vide spare rib for RMB588. Pasta is all rolled in house for a thick, authentic feel that even Italian patriots could salute. The Bolognese (RMB128), dense with slow-cooked meat, tomato and the richness of lobster broth, is among the best, though the tortellini (RMB98) is also well done, if especially thick.

Price: RMB200-2,000 Who’s going: lawyers, managers, fuerdai Good for: craft cocktails, fine dining, seeing and being seen Nearest metro: Dengliang Station (Exit A) 12 minutes

Open daily 11.30-2pm, 6pm-2am; 2/F, Building 1, T3 Block, Shenzhen Bay One, Lanyue Third Street 209B, Nanshan District 兰月三街深圳湾一号南山区广 场1栋2楼209B (181-2413 0186)

The menu is true to its Chinese roots, with many dishes designed for a familiar appeal, including Taiwanese-style minced pork (RMB45) and sweet and sour lemon bass (RMB55). You won’t find any kale smoothies or acai bowls here – the food is decidedly ‘fusion’ but leans more toward the local. The spinach mashed potato puree (RMB58) is truly a ‘green bowl’ – a blend of spinach, potatoes, peas, asparagus and avocados in an attractive forest green. Like most of Green Bowl’s entrees, the dish is served with sides of rice, soup and veggies when ordered as a lunch set. The puree was tasty and light, but took us by surprise with an overwhelming coconut milk flavor. The Taiwanese-style minced pork fell more closely within Chinese food standards – the flavors resembled what you’d find elsewhere, but with less fat. We rounded out the meal with a berry smoothie (RMB35), which was thin but fresh and free of added sugar or syrup. The scene is minimalistic, featuring white

PAULANER BRAUHAUS Knuckle Down By Adam Robbins

The Place

The Food

The Vibe

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The bar is half the fun with a huge range of whiskies (RMB1,080-10,880/bottle) and 27 varieties of gin (RMB880-3,580/bottle) for the half-dozen delicious Negronis among their cocktails. Like the rest of One Shenzhen Bay, rising from the sea to towering aspirations, Wann Lounge lifts our expectations for what Shenzhen’s food scene can achieve.

everything (walls, furniture, signage), cacti and smooth jazz. For a community where fitness and nutrition are trending, Green Bowl provides a strong modern take on Chinese fusion cuisine.

Price: RMB45-80 Who’s going: health nuts, vegans, Software Industry Base workers Good for: fusion food, lighter local flavors Nearest metro: Keyuan (Exit A) 14 minutes

Open 7am-9pm; 8/F, Building 8, Block 2A, Software Industry Base, Haitian 1st Road, Nanshan District 南 山区海天一路软件产业基地2A栋8楼 (8600 8876)

Now that observation deck of Shenzhen’s tallest building is open, it’s the perfect time to visit the Ping An IFC. Take in the verdant city from Olympian heights, then descend to a host of fine dining options, with the surprisingly homey and delicious Paulaner Brewpub among them. Inside the eighth-floor eatery, light wood tones and bright plaids (for both upholstery and wait staff) welcome diners craving European fare or European sports (like the World Cup they’ll screen starting mid-June).

The Food

Guests get “the same treatment, service and food you’ll get in a Paulaner in Germany,” we’re assured by the manager, herself a veteran of the brand’s Shekou location and the Beijing Kempinski before that. And though she vows never to include rice dishes, the chef (also from the Kempinski) devised a menu that is half new, styled to the Chinese palate. Sichuan steak (RMB228) is a worthy addition that could feed two, with slices of tender, premium beef half-smothered by the pronounced mala sauce. When it gets too hot, the cheesy käsespätzle noodles give

gracious relief. Whether or not you think you like German pork knuckle, you’ll love Paulaner’s version (RMB88-258). The skin is crisped to crackling, the meat is pared away and the sauces – dark beer, black pepper or spicy Sichuan – appeal to the range of tastes. But our favorite is the veal escalope (wiener schnitzel RMB218). It’s extremely tender, of course, but if the flour of the batter crust is too prominent on its own, it’s the perfect bite with creamy potato salad and sweet-tart cranberry. A shockingly good combo, all thanks to that sauce.

The Beer

As recent converts to the cult of hoppy IPAs, we were skeptical of the Paulaner lagers. Even if they’re brewed right here in Shenzhen by a young female brewmaster – a first for China, we’re told. Yet our doubts were relieved by their dark lager (RMB48/300 mL RMB368/3L). With flavors like chocolate wrapping around the tongue, it could almost pass as a stout. Other varieties are light as expected, but Paulaner plays to that with a range of sweet mixed beer drinks. Try it with Sprite (RMB45/300 mL) – it’s less sweet than ex-

pected and the stuff of leisurely day drinking. Less so the version with peach juice, where a round sweetness hid all flavor of beer. Or just get a five-glass sampler (RMB98) and taste away till you find the one that’s just right for you. Price: RMB150-300 Who’s going: business travelers, families, CBD workers Good for: light beer, hearty European cuisine Nearest metro: Shopping Park (Exit C) 5 minutes

Open 11am-midnight. 8/F, Shop 801, PAFC Mall Ping An Finance Centre, 5033 Yi Tian Lu, Futian District 福田 区益田路5033号平安金融中心N801 (8253 5187)

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NE W B A R | E AT & DR INK

E AT & DR INK | NE W R E S TAUR A N T

CIYUNTANG TRADITIONAL MASSAGE Hidden Pleasure By Bailey Hu

BOA

Club Fusion By Bailey Hu

of fine white sand. Fortunately the dance floor, a holdover from the former Club Viva, remains solid.

The Food

The Place The first thing you’ll think after stepping into BOA is, Why is there sand under my shoes? And if you, like us, favor open-toe kicks during Shenzhen’s sweltering summers, it’ll be accompanied by this: Why is there sand in my shoes? BOA strives to present itself as a highend venue for both food and nightlife and, with roving purple spotlights and fancy place settings, it succeeds. It’s not without quirks, though. The lobby and anterior dining area, for instance, is outfitted as an imitation patio with all-glass walls and drape-y canvas ceiling. It also boasts an inconvenient amount

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BOA impresses with a unique fusion menu: tuna truffle rolls (RMB98), for example, look Eastern but taste European thanks to additions of arugula and aged cheese. The food is also unabashedly luxe. A mouthwatering slab of aged Black Angus (RMB348) comes glazed to a subtle sweetness and topped with lightly-seared foie gras. As if that wasn’t enough, there’s also avocado-wrapped caviar sushi, priced at RMB98 a piece. Even a dry martini (RMB68) turns out to be, unlike your average club, heavy on the vodka. Sadly, the Nutella-filled maki roll (RMB38) isn’t as indulgent as we’d expected, although that might just be in comparison to everything else.

The Beer Despite its EDM soundtrack, the restaurant remains a solid choice for fine dining, with dishes not easily found elsewhere. Prices may deter casual clubbers, although BOA generally doesn’t require cover – with the exception of larger-scale parties. Still, that’s no reason not to explore the curiosity that is Shekou’s newest nightlifeslash-fusion food spot, even if it’s only for the novelty of feeling sand between your toes. Price: RMB90-250 Who’s going: hungry high-flyers, trendy bar-hoppers Good for: unique fusion food, luxe-loving dates Nearest metro: Sea World (Exit A) 6 minutes

I

n Asia, massage parlors aren’t always what they seem. This is true of Ciyuntang, although it’s taken the concept in a wildly different direction. Behind a slate-gray panel and row of plastic bamboo is a spacious snack spot sporting red lanterns and Chinese paintings. And behind that, past a door disguised as decoration, is the main attraction: a hip hop-blasting party hub and bar, complete with an upstairs cocktail lounge. On weekdays, the lounge attracts most visitors, who can choose from a wide variety of single malt scotches and other liquors in addition to some very special cocktails. How special? We’d dare to say that no other bar in Shenzhen makes drinks with seaweed-infused Talisker whiskey – which, with its mix of salt and peat, is pretty bomb. And though baijiu cocktail fever has yet to make its way down south, Ciyuntang has

that too, with a ‘steamed’ drink (RMB98) adding in passionfruit jam and lemon juice. Not all of the cocktails are hits: the sakura bath (RMB98), for instance, both looks and tastes like hard pink lemonade. For the same price, though, a Kyoto spa impresses with a tasteful blend of sweet chrysanthemum gin and bitter perilla leaf. Drinkers who’d rather not pay the price for high-end liquors can simply step downstairs for beers and mixed drinks (RMB3548), not to mention a small, neon-lit dance floor. It’s empty on a Monday night, although we’re told the place is packed during weekly parties. It’s not hard to imagine. As hits from Drake and Frank Ocean play, in-the-know drinkers keep trickling into the upstairs ‘English-style’ bar. They’re undoubtedly drawn in by Ciyuntang’s eclectic mix of upscale cocktails with club vibes, all with a Chinese twist. The so-called massage parlor may be a little weird, but it’s certainly original in its approach to bring customers a happy ending to the night. Price: RMB35-98 per drink Who’s going: cocktail connoisseurs, hip hop lovers Good for: unique drinks, hidden doors, boozy endings Nearest metro: Taoyuan (Exit D) 13 minutes Open daily, 7pm-2am Mon-Fri, 7pm-3am Sat-Sun; 3011-16 Nanhai Dadao, Nanshan District南山区南海 大道3011-16号

Open daily, 5pm-2am Sun-Thu, 5pm-4am Fri-Sat; 3/F, West side of International Bar Street, Sea World, Shekou, Nanshan District 南山区蛇口海上世界 国际酒吧街西侧三楼 (130-4894 9034)

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ISNS

THE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF NANSHAN SHENZHEN

HOMELAND

Zooming in on Iran through a Camera Lens BY WANG YAO

A

fter documenting Israel and Russia in the first and second book of her Homeland series, photographer Wang Yao is back again with the third release focusing on yet another exotic location: Iran.

HOMELAND: IRAN

Wang Yao April 2018 250mm ×250mm 180 pages, ¥198.00 Chinese-English hardcover 978-7-5085-3358-2

Much like Wang’s previous work, Homeland: Iran is a visual documentation of the picturesque landscape and the colorful culture of the Middle Eastern nation. Zeroing in on the daily lives of the locals, the collection reflects not only the environment in which they live, but it also vividly depicts their aspirations in life.

HOMELAND: RUSSIA

April 2017 250mm ×250mm 180 pages, ¥198.00 Chinese-English hardcover 978-7-5085-3359-9

MAKING HISTORY Congratulations to the Class of 2018. ISNS’s first IB Diploma (DP) cohort!

HOMELAND: ISRAEL

July 2016 250mm×250mm 180 pages, ¥198.00 Chinese-English hardcover 978-7-5085-3366-7

IB STRONG

FOLLOW

www.facebook.com/GoISNS/

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[e] admissions@isnsz.com [w] www.isnsz.com [t] +86-2666-1000

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FIRST CONTINUUM IB WORLD SCHOOL

11 Longyuan Road, Taoyuan Sub-District, Nanshan District Shenzhen, P.R. China, 518055 中国深圳南山区桃源街道龙苑路11号

IN SHENZHEN, CHINA


Tomorrow Festival Music Festival

HEAR Tomorrow Festival Music Festival

NGHTMRE & Slander: Gud Vibrations Set

Sound Fountain Concert

win! Every May since 2014 OCT-LOFT imagines the future with this non-mainstream music festival. Tomorrow Festival features experimental, rock, avant-garde, free jazz and world music, with Tea Rockers, KRAUTWERK, AOKI takamasa, Konono Nº1, Jun Togawa, Guo Yongzhang and GONG performing. Concerts take place each day at B10 Live, with an underground fanzine talk and screening of Here to Be Heard: The Story of the Slits at A3+ on May 19 and 20. May 17-20, 8pm concerts 2pm talk, screening; RMB100-280 advance RMB150-320 door RMB500 all-access pass. B10 Live, Building C2, North Area, OCT-Loft, Xiangshan Dong Jie, Nanshan District 南山区香山东街华侨城创意文化园北区C2栋北侧 (b10live.cn/tomorrowfestival)

win! We’re giving away tickets for our featured B10 Live concerts! Message our official WeChat account (ThatsShenzhen) three days before the show and tell us why you should win!

win! On guitar, bass and drums, the trio behind Sound Fountain explore surprising musical landscapes that rollick from jazz through rock, world, new classical and free improvisation. With Dublin-born Christy Doran at the heart, the three musicians blend “haunting melodies, catchy grooves, spherical moods and abstract musical textures” to create a cascade of music that is far more than the sum of its parts. Wed May 9, 8pm; RMB100 presale RMB120 door. B10 Live, Building C2, North Area, OCTLoft, Xiangshan Dong Jie, Nanshan District 南山区香山东街华侨城创意文化园北区C2栋北 侧 (b10live.cn)

The bass-driving DJ friends behind the NGHTMRE and Slander nomsde-scene joined up for the 2015 hit ‘Gud Vibrations’ and they’ve never looked back. Taking the tour to Shenzhen’s ReBorn755 warehouse arena, the boys offer EDM lovers trap, heaven trap, bass, and future bass tracks to last late into the night. Sat May 5, 10pm; RMB 280. ReBorn755, 4 Chiwan Yi Lu, Nanshan District 南山区赤湾 一路四号 (247tickets.com)

ORF Vienna Radio Symphony Orchestra Concert

The Swingles Concert

Versatile and driven to push the boundaries of vocal music, The Swingles visit the PRD for an evening of a cappella wonder. Earning five Grammy awards during its 50 year history, the group has been continually refreshed by young talent. Their newest album, Folklore, arranges beloved folk songs from around the world to reflect the group’s rich world of sound. The results will surprise you. Tue May 22, 8pm; RMB 180-380. Shenzhen Concert Hall, 2016 Fuzhong Yi Lu, Futian District福田区福中一路2016号 (247tickets. com)

Tomorrow Festival is a non-mainstream music festival in OCT-LOFT, Shenzhen, China, happening annually every May since 2014. Tomorrow Festival covers various styles of music, including experimental, rock, avant-garde, free jazz and world music. It focuses on the artistic prospective and creativity. Tomorrow refers to a kind of spiritual direction. It implies the longing for new things and more possibilities. May 17-20, 8pm concerts 2pm talk, screening; RMB100-280 advance RMB150-320 door RMB500 all-access pass. B10 Live, Building C2, North Area, OCT-Loft, Xiangshan Dong Jie, Nanshan District 南山区香山东街华侨城创意文化园北区C2栋北侧 (b10live.cn)

Windsbach Boys Choir Concert

Fall Out Boy: Mania Tour Concert

Joshua Radin Concert Gifted young Chinese-American pianist Claire Huangci has emerged from child prodigy status to a “radiant virtuosity.” She joins the renowned Vienna RSO for a concert of Shubert’s Great Symphony (No. 9), Kabalewskij’s Fantasia and Schubert’s Rosamunde Overture, with Cornelius Meister conducting. Sat May 12, 8pm; RMB380-1,880. Shenzhen Poly Theatre, Baoli Culture Square, Haibin Lu, Houhai, Nanshan District 深圳市南山区后海滨路保利文化 广场保利剧院 (247tickets.com)

win! Even if he never intended to become a live performer, when Joshua Radin’s first song "Winter" was featured on an episode of Scrubs, popular acclaim drove him to a record deal and countless world tours. Now, a half million record sales later, Radin has seen his songs featured in more than 150 different films, commercials, and TV shows. He tours China in support of last year’s album, The Fall, which was the first produced by himself. Sat May 12, 8pm; RMB150 presale RMB180 door. B10 Live, Building C2, North Area, OCTLoft, Xiangshan Dong Jie, Nanshan District 南山区香山东街华侨城创意文化园北区C2栋北 侧 (b10live.cn)

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Hailing from Chicago, the American alt-rock band has cemented their position as one of rock’s biggest-selling bands, backed by their arsenal of top-ranked hits and albums. Now, the group is back bigger and better than ever with their latest album, Mania. It marks the band’s fourth chart-topping album and their sixth consecutive top 10 on Billboard. Fri May 4, 8pm; RMB380-1,280. Shenzhen Bay Sports Center, 3001 Binhai Dadao, Nanshan District, 南山区滨海大道3001号 (www.247tickets.com)

For generations, the boys of the renowned German choir have excelled with talent beyond their years. With a repertoire spanning a cappella to great oratorical masterpieces like Handel’s Messiah, 70 young singers perform nearly 50 concerts every year. Singing for world leaders, the dulcet voices of the young men have made their own little contribution to world peace. Hear them for yourself on this one-night performance. Tue May 22, 8pm; RMB180-580. Huaxia Art Center, 1 Guangqiao Jie, OCT 华侨城 光侨街1号 (247tickets.com)

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DO

SEE

Women in Business Forum Colloquium

More than 200 women gather each year for this flagship event from the British Chamber of Commerce Guangdong. With a theme of #PressforProgress, the forum hopes to establish a platform for women to inspire each other and exchange information in support of one another. Guxi, a co-founder of TechieCat will speak of her experience of building the first female technology community and encouraging women to get more involved in technology and coding. Fri May 11, 1.30-5.30pm; RMB100-200. China Merchants Hall, 2/F, Hilton Shenzhen Shekou Nanhai, 1177 Wanghai Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District 南山区蛇口望海路1177号 (yoopay.cn/event/94145213)

Sexy Nurse Party Party

Punchline Comedy Club – Whose Line Is It Anyway? Improv Comedy

According to The Times, the new cast of this improv comedy show is “Pure talent, better than the TV show!” The five comedic alchemists promise to weave comedy gold by taking scenarios, genres, phrases and props suggested by the audience and turning them into a hilarious array of sketches, songs, comic dramas and more. Wed May 23, 8pm; RMB 190 presale RMB220 door. Hard Rock Cafe Shenzhen, 9 Mission Hills Road, Longhua New District 龙华新区观澜高尔夫大道9号 (247tickets.com)

Mettāsonic Album Release Party

TA S T E

TNT Theatre Britain: Julius Caesar Stage

Lord of the Dance: Dangerous Games Dance

Spoiler alert: Rome’s conquering dictator doesn’t make it out alive. But with their betrayals, revenge and unyielding ambition, the assassins and defenders of Shakespeare’s political thriller give us a warning that endures. Award-winning art direction by Paul Stebbings should make this a worthwhile sight … if it isn’t canceled as too ‘sensitive’ for current tastes. Sun May 6, 7.30pm; RMB160-320. Shenzhen Children’s Palace, 2002 Fuzhong Yi Lu, Futian District福田区福中 一路2002号 (247tickets.com)

Michael Flatley’s 1998 dance sensation broke box office records but wasn’t it missing something? Perhaps time-travelling robots? Strange as it may sound, the Irish dance company’s sequel adds sci-fi elements to a timeless tale that’s earned praise from critics the world over. Check it out for yourself and revel in the spectacle of good dancing all over the plots of evil Don Dorcha. May 19-20, 8pm & 2.30pm; RMB180-880. Nanshan Cultural and Sports Center, 62 Nantou Jie, Nanshan District 南山区南山 大道南头街62号 (247tickets.com)

Minding the Digital Exhibition/ Tour

KIBUBU Theater

African Party with Hand Drum Performance Party

That’s PRD X Wine & Etc Wine Party

Technical issues delayed this free-flow food-and-wine event, but the date is set and Ms. Dany Santana of Concept Express is ready to serve as your host for the night. Gourmet Italian finger foods, live DJ performance and hundreds of RMB worth of dining vouchers await, in the luxurious rooms of Blue. Get your ticket for only RMB299 by scanning the QR code above. Sat May 19, 7pm networking 10pm afterparty; RMB299. Blue, 3/F, The Venice Hotel, 9026 Shennan Lu, by Qiaocheng Xi Jie, 南山区华侨城深南路9026号威尼斯酒店二楼3楼 (1360264 0769)

Chili Cookoff 2018 Tasting

What better way to show our appreciation for hard-working, life-saving medical workers on International Nurse Day than by showing them at their very sexiest? Dress up in your most attractive scrubs (or short white skirt) to win a Best Dressed Prize and party with Terrace’s prize-winning band TAS. Work hard, play hard with drink specials till 9.30pm. Fri May 11, 9.30pm; free entry. The Terrace Restaurant & Bar, No. 201, Sea World Square, 32 Taizi Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District 南山区蛇口太子路32号 海上世界广场商铺201 (theterracechina. com)

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Did you know that Shenzhen has a drum & bass record label? Born out of Fresh, which has been promoting DNB in town since 2008, Mettāsonic is one year old and releasing its second compilation at Oil on May 11th. It’ll feature live sets and producers from Taipei, Hong Kong, Guangzhou and Shenzhen, with a beatmaker workshop before the event. Follow ‘muzikbox’ on WeChat for more info. Fri May 11, 9pm-5am; RMB50 early bird RMB60 presale RMB80 door. Oil Club, 11A Ground Floor, Tairan Building, Tairan Ba Lu, Futian District 福田区泰然八路泰然大厦01层 L1-11A (yoopay.cn/event/29889777)

Celebrate the cultures, rhythms and long struggle for independence among the peoples of Africa. Terrace takes the opportunity to decorate in selected African styles, with the house band TAS putting on a special performance for the night. Enjoy huge discounts on certain beverages until 9.30pm. Fri May 25, 9.30pm; free entry. The Terrace Restaurant & Bar, No. 201, Sea World Square, 32 Taizi Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District 南山区蛇口太子路32号 海上世界广场商铺201 (theterracechina. com)

Explore the unexpected contours of our new digital world, with art created by and with our robot helpers. Interactive art, maker space workshops, fantastical fashion and luminescent landscapes are just a fraction of this thought-provoking panoply. Catch it before its June 3 party brings the sprawling exhibit to a close. Ongoing, 10am-10pm; curator’s tour Sun May 20, 3:30-4pm; RMB80. Sea World Culture and Arts Center, 1187 Wanghai Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District 南山区蛇口 望海路1187号 (designsociety.cn)

In this family-oriented farce, Xebas and Cocó the clowns enlist a gorilla to save the failing show. With humor and pathos, the Spanish comedians attempt to tame the animal for tricks and the praise of their fellow humans. But in true parable fashion, the teachers are the ones with important lessons to learn. Sun May 27, 10.30am & 3pm; RMB80280. Shenzhen Children‘s Palace, 2002 Fuzhong Yi Lu, Futian District 福田区福中 一路2002号 (en.damai.cn)

McCawley’s Sea World hosts their Annual Chili Cook-Off on Saturday May 12 starting at noon. Fiery or smoky? Beans or just meat? Seven competing visions of the Tex-Mex classic vie for your vote before the 3pm award announcement. Lay down your RMB100 to taste them all, plus a free drink and all the chips and cornbread you need to quench the heat. Plus every guest could win one of the great lucky draw prizes. Sat May 12, 12pm; RMB100. McCawley's Irish Pub Shekou, No. 118, 32 Taizi Lu, Sea World Shekou, Nanshan District 南山区太子路32号海上世界广场 118号 (mccawleys.com)

Saffron Selections Lunch Sets

Saffron knows we love a good set lunch, so they’re making their 11:30am-3pm offerings available every day, including weekends. Enjoy a fully vegetarian option witih two portions of vegetables, rice, naan bread, salad, flavored Indian curd, dessert and a Coke for only RMB50. Or for just RMB5 more, swap out the veggies with servings of vegetarian and lamb/fish/chicken curry. Indulge a little and swap out your Coke for a cool Tsingtao, Budweiser, Corona or Hoegaarden for just RMB10 more. Or, freshly squeezed seasonal juice, if you’re being kind to your liver. Just remember this great deal is only available in store, not for delivery. Ongoing, 11.30am-3pm; RMB50-65. Blue, 3/F, The Venice Hotel, 9026 Shennan Lu, by Qiaocheng Xi Jie, 南山区 华侨城深南路9026号威尼斯酒店二楼3楼 (136-0264 0769) WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 69


HONG KONG & MACAU CALENDAR HK

MAY 5 SAT

MAY 13 SUN

MAY 8 TUE

MO

HOTEL NEWS HILTON SHENZHEN SHEKOU NANHAI Hosts Regional F&B Master Competition

The successful conclusion of the 2018 Hilton F&B Master Competition South Region was marked with a gala dinner welcoming over a hundred VIP customers, including Hong Kong director/producer Philip Chan and wine connoisseur Vincent Law. The annual event includes five challenges for Hilton’s food and beverage experts – bar, sommelier, dessert, culinary and barista – winnowing 1,000 participants down to 22 nationwide finalists. The Hilton Shenzhen Shekou Nanhai, facing Shenzhen Bay to the west with easy access to Hong Kong International Airport, sends the regional champion to the final competition to see who is the 2018 Hilton F&B Master of Greater China and Mongolia.

Catholic devotees commemorate the miracle of Fátima in Portugal in 1917. It will feature an open-air mass, while white-robed women carry the statue of Our Lady of Fátima through the historic streets of Macau.

MAY 22 Harry Styles Live on Tour, 8pm; HKD488-4,888.Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre Hall 5BC (hkticketing.com) The 24-year-old One Direction alum added 56 more dates to his first world tour, in response to demand from fans. The young heart-throb still plays some of the boy band’s songs, but more recent works from his self-titled album offer, in Variety’s words, a "classic cocktail of psychedelia, Britpop, and balladry.” Whether or not you swoon over his looks, the princeling of British pop performs with a confidence and clarity we can all enjoy.

MAY 12 SAT

WED A-Ma Festival, morning. A-Ma Temple. District Race, 7am-3pm; HKD383450. Central Harbourfront Event Space (districtrace.com) The second-ever iteration of the “urban exploration race” pits runners against The Grid of virtual citywide challengers. As a first-of-itskind concept, there is no set route nor distance, letting participants devise their own routes to explore more than 80 virtual checkpoints. Challenges require different skills like speed, city knowledge, dexterity and problem-solving acumen, and participants can choose the challenges that play to their strengths. Download the app and get ready to run.

This festival celebrates the goddess A-Ma, from whom Macau is said to derive its Cantonese name. After a ritual ceremony, a parade will commence in honor of the deity – known in mainland China as Mazu, or the goddess of the sea – to celebrate the beliefs and customs surrounding this UNESCO-recognized tradition.

MAY 12 SAT

MAY 18-20 FRI-SUN

Super Junior, 7pm; MOP780-1980. Cotai Arena, The Venetian Macao (venetianmacao.com) As part of their world tour, the popular Korean boy band Super Junior are set to visit fans in Macau this month, performing songs from their eighth album, Play. Since forming in 2005, the highly soughtafter boy band have been deemed one of K-pop’s most defining acts and are credited with helping spread the genre’s popularity to global audiences.

Puccini's Tosca, 5.30pm; HKD210. HKAPA Béthanie Landmark Heritage Campus (hkticketing.com) Two extraordinary sopranos alternate in the title role of the jealous prima donna in Sir David McVicar’s lavish production. Sonya Yoncheva and Anna Netrebko play the doomed Floria Tosca with Vittorio Grigolo and Marcelo Álvarez alternating the role of her revolutionary artist lover Cavaradossi. The torture, murder, suicide and endless passion of Puccini’s most popular opera unfold under the conductor’s wand of Emmanuel Villaume.

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MAY 13 Affordable Art Fair Hong Kong, 11am / 12pm May 18. Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Hall 3DE (hkticketing.com) Over 115 galleries showcase a broad range of art, all priced between HK$1,000 and HK$100,000. Highlights include the cutting edge Young Talent Hong Kong exhibition, the large-scale installations and the Creative Hub with M+ Rover 2018: Travelling Creative Studio. New for 2018, #ForArtSake on Friday evening will help raise awareness of mental wellbeing and art therapy and host an international lineup of artists performing live for charity.

SUN

Procession of Our Lady of Fátima, 5.30pm. St. Domingo’s Church. Starting from St. Domingo’s Church and working its way to the Penha Chapel, this annual procession of

Feast of the Drunken Dragon, morning. Kuan Tai Temple (near Senado Square) The Feast of the Drunken Dragon, also known as the Drunken Dragon and Lion Dance Gala, is a local traditional folk festival celebrated by fishmongers in Macau, which later on developed into an annual festivity on the eighth day of the fourth month of the lunar calendar. A ‘drunken dance’ is performed with a wooden dragon, as well as a ‘drunken dragon parade,’ lion dances and the distribution of ‘longevity rice,’ the grains of which are said to repel evil spirits.

UNTIL MAY 31

29th Macao Arts Festival, for specific programs, please visit icm.gov.mo The 29th edition of the annual Macao Arts Festival (MAF), themed ‘Origan,’ will launch this month with a wide range of mindexpanding topics. With 26 captivating programs that fall into seven categories (Thematic Highlights, Groundbreakers, Cross-Disciplinary Creations, Family Entertainment, Quintessence of Tradition, Concerts and Exhibitions), the MAF is the perfect occasion for audiences to appreciate classics of the musical, theatrical and visual arts refined through time.

Da Ho ny ste Sa d B nt y an a The party is back! Hosted by Dany Santana, guests will enjoy a delicious dinner buffet and free-flow red and white wine while networking with their peers. That’s PRD teams up with Concept Express and Wine & Etc. to bring you a night of great music, great prizes and great conversations. RSVP for only RMB299 ... if any spots remain.

Time: 7:00 pm to 10:00 pm, Saturday May 19, 2018 Venue: Blue Italian Seafood & Grill Restaurant, 3/F, The Venice Raytour Hotel Shenzhen 南山区深南大道 9026 号 , 深圳威尼斯睿途酒店 3 楼意大利餐厅 Dinner buffet, Free flow of red and white wine, Live DJ, Endless lucky draw prizes, for only RMB299

Dress code: White shirt and red lips Scan the QR code above for your ticket, for more questions you may contact Maggie at 13602640769 or Shumin at 13902581631. This event will SELL OUT, so book early!

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OPEN DOOR

URBAN MOMENTS Do you have party pictures to contribute? Send them to us at editor.prd@urbanatomy.com and we’ll run the best.

GEORGE & DRAGON

Hosts Burger Night Every Tuesday Every Tuesday from 5-10pm is Burger Night at George & Dragon. Enjoy RMB10 off the normal price of your burger and get a free pint of lager to wash it down. Included in Burger Night is the Stuffed Burger, with three fillings of your choice. Stuff your burger with bacon, cheese, mushrooms, peppers, or anything you want!

Black Suit Party @Terrace, Apr 13rd

Shop No. 3, 5 Taizi Road (behind Taizi Hotel), Nanshan District 南山区太子路5号太子宾馆1楼后 排3号商铺 (2669 8564)

THE TERRACE RESTAURANT & BAR Serves Up Tom Yum Kung Soup

Watch out for this authentic Thai soup! You might grow too fond of it and give up your plane tickets to Thailand. Why bother traveling when you can get the delicious food close to home? No. 201, 32 Taizi Lu, Sea World Shekou, Nanshan District南山区蛇口海上世界广场商铺201 (2682 9105)

Pepper 2.0. Re-Genesis@Pepper,Mar 24th

Wann Lounge OPENING@Wann Lounge April 9th

PAULANER SHEKOU Spices Up the Menu

Shenzhen’s original Paulaner Brauhaus announces new menu items with global inspiration. Sichuan spicy Wagyu sirloin steak delivers classic Chinese heat, Hokkaido scallops look elegant over dark cuttlefish ink spaghetti with basil paste and caviar, while baked tomato cheese prawns with buttered seasonal vegetables pack the richness we crave. Other additions include grilled imported French codfish fillet and Hokkaido scallops with Champagne sauce, Thai style pumpkin soup with prawns and coconut milk, wheat beer-dressed Paulaner garden salad with Black Forest ham and fried chicken wings with parmesan cheese and cranberry jam. C-005, Huanchuan Square, Sea World Shekou, Nanshan District南山区蛇口海上世界C区C-005 (2668 7230)

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FEATURED LISTINGS District, Longhua District, (400 867 0177) admissions@merchiston.cn, www.merchiston.cn 深圳市龙华区大浪街道新石社区石龙仔

Vista-SK International Medical Center Lvl 4, Bldg 4C, Shenzhen Software Industry Base,Xuefu Lu, Nanshan District (3689 9833) 南山区学府路软件产业基地4栋C座裙楼4层

Peninsula Montessori Kindergarten the Peninsula one, Jin Shiji Lu, Shekou Nanshan District ( 2685 1266)

C-MER (Shenzhen) Dennis Lam Eye Hospital 1-2/F, Shengtang Bldg, 1 Tairan Jiu Lu, Chegongmiao, Futian District (4001 666 120, 3322 7188) 福田区车公庙泰然九路一号

路12号

Scan for complete listings

半岛城邦国际幼儿园 南山区蛇口东角头金世纪路1 号半岛城邦一期

Quality Schools International 2/F Bitao Center, 8 Taizi Lu, Shekou,Nanshan District (2667 6031). www.shk.qsi.org

Want to see all restaurants, hotels and more in Shenzhen? Check out www.thatsmags.com or follow our official WeChat account by scanning the QR code.

南山区蛇口太子路 8 号碧涛中心 2 楼

QSI International School of Shenzhen (Futian) A1, TCL Science Park, No. 1001 Zhongshan Yuan, Nanshan District (8371 7108) 中山园路1001号TCL 科学园区A1栋 Shekou International School Jingshan Villas, Gongye Er Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District (2669 3669). www.sis.org.cn 南山区蛇口工业二路鲸山别墅内

FOOD & DRINK AMERICAN

NYPD New York Pizza Delivery 1) Shop 26, Haichang Jie, 1 Gongyuan Nan Lu (8887 6973) 2) 3 Fuhua Yi Lu, by Zhongxin Si Lu (8887 6973) 1) 南山区 公园南路1号海尚

国际26号铺 2)福田区 福华一路中心城FL1015商铺

Element Fresh 1) 1/F, Zone B, Sea World, Shekou, Nanshan District (2681 4848) 2) L2-7/7A, Wongtee Plaza, 118 Fuhua San Lu, Futian District (8323 7249) 1) 南山区海上

世界广场B区B130-210号 2) 福田区福华三路118 号皇庭国商购物广场L2-7/7A号

Baia Burger Concept 1C-077-078A, 1/F, Shopping Park, Fuhua San Lu, Futian District (8290 6696) 福田区福华三路购物 公 园一楼078A

Morton's Grille N901 PAFC Mall, Ping An Finance Center, 5033 Yitian Road, Futian District (8326 8333) 深圳市福田区益田路5033 号平安金融中心N901

Hard Rock Cafe Shenzhen 9 Mission Hills

Blvd, Longhua New District (3395 2888) 龙 华新区观澜高尔夫大道9号www.hardrockhotels. com/shenzhen Blue Frog Shop 28, 2/F, Wongtee Plaza, 118 Fuhua San Lu, Futian District (8255 3646) 福田区福华三路118号皇庭国商购物广场

L’etoile Building A 302-303, Ecological PLAZA, OCT, Nanshan District (8166 8111) 南山区华侨城生态广场A 栋302-303

心城广场L楼FL1011号

La Maison Shop 108, Nanhai Rose Garden, 91 Wanghai Lu, Nanshan District (2685 7030) 南山区望海路91号南海玫瑰花园108号

Bincho Ya L120-121, Bldg 2, Times Square Excellence, Fuhua Lu, Futian District (8278 2760) 福田区福华路卓越时代广场二期L120

GERMAN ITALIAN

Artisans 1/F, Block A, Poly Cultural Center, Houhaibin Lu, by Haide San Dao (8628 7109) 南山区 保利文化广场A区40号店铺 Blue Italian Seafood & Grill Restaurant 3/F, The Venice Raytour Hotel Shenzhen, 9026 Shennan Dadao, Nanshan District (2693 6888) 南山区深南大道9026号深圳威尼斯

睿途酒店3楼意大利餐厅

Baia Restaurant Bar Grill B301, Bldg B, Zone B, Sea World Square, Shekou, Nanshan District (2681 8836) 南山区蛇口海上世

Haxnbauer 1) L1C-055B, 1/F, Coco Park, Fuhua San Lu, Futian District (8359 2080) 2) L1-15, Raffles City, 2163 Nanhai Ave, Nanshan District (8652 6580) 1) 福田区福华

区蛇口海上世界环船广场C-005 2)福田区益田路 5033号平安金融中心8楼801

界广场B区3楼B301

La Terrazza 1/F, Grand Hyatt Shenzhen, 1881 Baoan Nan Lu, by Jiabing Lu (2218 7338) 深圳市罗湖区宝安南路1881号深圳君

悦酒店

Paletto 2/F, The Ritz-Carlton, 116 Fuhua San Lu, Futian District (2222 2222) 福田区福 华三路116号深圳星河丽思卡尔顿酒店二层

Oggi Trattoria Pizzeria 3-14 Golden Century Lu, Phase 3, Coastal Rose Garden, Shekou, Nanshan District (2689 0118) 南

Komachi -B-132, North Side, Shopping Park, Futian District (8290 5806) 福田区购物 公园北园B区132号

Kyoku Japanese Cuisine B-17 Qushui Bay, OCT Bay, 50 Baishi Lu East, Nanshan District (8654 1122) 南山区白石路东50号欢乐 海岸曲水湾B-17

Nishimura 1F, Macro Polo Hotel, Fuhua Yi Lu, by Mintian Lu (3339 7709) 深圳市福田中 心区福华一路马哥孛罗好日子酒店1楼

三路星河Coco Park一楼L1C-055B 2) 南山区南 海大道2163号福士广场L1-15

Paulaner Brauhaus 1) C-005, Huanchuan Square, Sea World, Shekou, Nanshan District (2668 7230) 2) 8/F, Shop 801, PAFC Mall, Ping’An Finance Centre, 5033 Yi Tian Road, Futian District (8253 5187) 1) 南山

SPANISH El Toro Spanish Restaurant and Bar Rm 122/123, East Block, Coastal Building, Haide San Dao, Nanshan District (1330231 2550) 南山区海德三道海岸大厦东座一楼 122-123铺

Ling Spanish Kitchen 1011 Qiao Xiang Dong Lu, 1979 Cultural Park (8322 7522)

VIETNAMESE Lian Shop 562, 5/F, The MIXC Shenzhen, Luohu District (8266 6366) 罗湖区万象城商 场5楼562铺

Muine 1) L2-203, Coco Park, Fuhua San Lu, Futian District (8271 2527) 2) B139 and B139-2, B1/F, Jiufang Shopping Mall, Shennan Zhong Lu, Futian District (2681 7828) 1) 福田区福华三路COCOParkL2-203 2) 福田区 深南中路华强北九方购物中心B1层139&B139-2

Mon Saigon Block B, 1979 Cultural and Creative Park, by Qiaoxiang Lu, Futian District (8270 3282) 福田区侨香路1979文化 Pho Nam 1) Shop B26C, Link City Passage, by Fuhua Lu (8255 7048) 福田区连城新天地

B26C商铺

山区蛇口金世纪路南海玫瑰花园三期金世纪路 3-14号

Pizza Express Shop 568, 5/F, the MixC, 1881 Bao'an Nan Lu, Luohu District (2215 9036) 罗湖区宝安南路1881号万象城5楼568

号商铺

Kiwi Pizza 1) Shop B14, COCO Park, by Fuhua Lu (8329 2299) 2) 8 Outlets Minkang Lu, by Huanan Lu 3) B1, 138 Mintian Lu, by Fuhua Yi Lu 1) 福田区 购物公园B1楼地铁商业街

B14铺 2)龙华新区 奥特莱斯8号仓店 3) 福田区 民 田路138号购物公园B1楼

Saffron Indian Restaurant and Bar Floor B1, Jinhu Hotel, 1005 Wenjin Lu, Luohu District (8219 1115) 罗湖区文锦中路1005号锦 湖宾馆地下一层

Indian Cottage Shop 48-49, 2/F, Area A, Poly Cultural Centre, Wenxin Wu Lu, Nanshan District (8628 7265) 南山区文心五路保 利文化广场A区2楼48-49号商铺

74 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

THAI

INDIAN Bombay Indian Restaurant & Bar Shops 20-24, Sea World, Nanshan District (2667 6049) 南山区海上世界商铺20-24号

深圳市福田区福华三路 138 号

Grand Hyatt Shenzhen No.1881 Baoan Nan Lu, Luohu District (8266 1234) www.shenzhen.grand.hyatt.com 罗湖区宝安南路1881号 Hardrock Hotel Shenzhen, Hard Rock Cafe Shenzhen,No.9 Misson Hills Road,Shenzhen,0755-3395 2888 深圳硬石 酒店 深圳观澜高尔夫大道9号

Hilton Shenzhen Shekou Nanhai 1177, Wanghai Lu, Nanshan District The George & Dragon is a quintessential British Pub; good draft beers, ales, and cider; comforting pub food and great BBQ; non-stop sports on three screens; secluded beer garden. Your home away from home. Also available for catering your parties and events. www.george-dragon.com; e-mail: manager@george-dragon.com; tel: 2669 8564; Shop 3, behind Taizi Hotel, Taizi Lu 5, Shekou. 南山区太子路5号太子宾馆1楼后排

The Terrace Restaurant & Bar #201, Sea World Square, 32 Taizi Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District (2682 9105) 南山区蛇口太子路32号海 上世界广场商铺201

Very Siam 1/F, A3 Bldg, Xiangshan Dong Jie, OCT-Loft, Nanshan District (8623 3225) 南山区OCT创意园香山东街A3栋1楼

深圳蛇口希尔顿南海酒店 南山区望海路 1177 号 (2162 8888)

Hilton Shenzhen Futian Town B, Great China International Finance Centre, 1003 Shennan Dadao, Futian District (2130 8888) 福田区深南大道1003号大中华国际金融中心B座

JW Marriott Shenzhen No.6005 Shennan Dadao, Futian District. (2269 8888)

3号商铺

福田区深南大道 6005 号

Club Viva No. 140, Fuhua Lu, Coco Park, Futian District 福田区福华路城建购物公园

JW Marriott Shenzhen Bao’an 8 Baoxing Lu, Baoan District (2323 8888)

140 号

深圳前海华侨城 JW 万豪酒店 , 宝安区宝兴路 8 号

Dazzle Club 3/F, Central Commercial Building, No.88 Fuhua 1st Road, Futian District (2348 1542) 福田区民田路中心商务大厦三楼

Marco Polo Shenzhen Fuhua Yi Lu, CBD, Futian District (8298 9888). www. cn.marcopolohotels.com 福田中心区福华一路

McCawley’s Irish Bar 1) Shop 151-152, Coco Park, Futian District (2531 3599) 2) Shop 118, Sea World, Shekou, Nanshan District (2668 4496) 1) 福田区购物公园151-

Shangri-La Hotel East of the Luohu Train Station, Jianshe Lu, Luohu District (8233 0888). www.shangri-la.com

152 2) 南山区蛇口海上世界广场118号

Pepper Club 2/F, Shopping Park, Fuhua Lu, Fustian District (8319 9040) 福田区福华

路购物公园二楼

The Terrace Above Starbucks, Sea World Plaza, Shekou, Nanshan District (2682 9105) 南山区蛇口海上世界广场2 楼星巴克楼上

生活新领域B区

侨香东路1011号1979文化新天地B区1层

PIZZA

Four Seasons Hotel Shenzhen 138 Fuhua San Lu, Futian District (8826 8888)

-L121店

域A区1栋1层

2层28铺

福田区益田路 4088 号福田香格里拉大酒店

BOA 3/F, West side of International Bar Street, Sea World, Shekou, Nanshan District (130 4894 9034) 南山区蛇口海上世界国际酒 Tang Ben Jia #FL1011, L/F, Yijing Central Walk Shopping Mall, 3 Fuhua Yi Lu, Futian District (8280 1086) 福田区福华一路3号怡景中

HOTEL Futian Shangri-La Hotel Shenzhen No.4088 Yitian Lu, Futian District (8828 4088).

JAPANESE

吧街西侧三楼

Taste Moment Restaurant 1st floor, Bldg 1, Block A, 1979 Cultural and Creative Park, 1011 Qiaoxiang Lu, Futian District (8255 6173) 福田区侨香路1011号1979文化生活新领

NIGHTLIFE

子路南海意库6栋116号

Belle-Vue Grill 37/F, Grand Hyatt Shenzhen, 1881 Bao'an Nan Lu, Luohu District (2218 7338) 罗湖区宝安南路1881号君悦酒

IMC(International Medical Center) serves the local community and expatriates from all over the world. We are proud to provide private, personalized healthcare for each patient. Our experienced staff from Hong Kong, Mainland China and overseas provide comprehensive medical services including general and specialty outpatient services, health assessments, inpatient services and more. Scan QR Code above for more info of IMC. 深圳市福田区海园一路,

香港大学深圳医院国际医疗中心 International Medical Centre,The University of Hong Kong - Shenzhen Hospital, 1, Haiyuan 1st Road, Futian District, Shenzhen (0755-86913388)

BUSINESS

深圳外国语学校国际部南山区白石三道 29 号

Little Papa Indian Restaurant #116, Building 6, Nanhai E-Cool, Taizi Lu, Shekou, Nanshan District (2686 0020) 南山区蛇口太

FRENCH

店37楼

Shen Wai International School 29 Baishi San Lu, Nanshan (8654 1200, www.swis.cn)

盛唐大厦1-2层

EDUCATION American International School, No. 82,Gongyuan Lu, Shekou,Nanshan District (8619 4750) 南山区蛇口公园路82号青少年活动中心

Green Oasis School  No 4030, Shennan Middle Road, Tianmian, Futian District. (8399 6712) admission@ greenoasis.org.cn   www.greenoasis.org.cn 福田区田面村深南中路 4030 号

International School of Nanshan Shenzhen A Canadian school accepting application for Pre-Grade 1 through Grade 12. 11 Longyuan Lu, Taiyuan Sub-District, Nanshan District (2666 1000, 2606 6968). admission@isnsz.com www.isnsz.com 南山区龙源路11号

Merchiston International School, Shenzhen No. 12 Shilongzai Road, Daliang Sub-

罗湖区建设路火车站东侧

Sheraton Dameisha Resort 9 Yankui Lu, Dameisha, Yantian District (8888 6688) 盐田大梅沙盐葵路 ( 大梅沙段 )9 号

St. Regis Shenzhen No.5016 Shennan Dong Lu, Luohu District.(8308 8888) 深圳瑞吉酒店 罗湖区深南东路 5016 号

The Langham, Shenzhen, No. 7888, Shennan Dadao, Futian District (8828 9888). 深圳朗廷酒店,福田区深南大道 7888 号

The Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen 116 Fuhua San Lu, Futian District (2222 2222) 福田区福华三路 116 号

The Venice Raytour Hotel Shenzhen No.9026, Shennan Dadao, Overseas Chinese Town, Nanshan District (2693 6888)

深圳威尼斯睿途酒店 南山区华侨城深南大道 9026 号

The Westin Shenzhen 9028-2 Shennan Dadao, Nanshan District (2698 8888) www.westin.com/shenzhen 南山区深南大道 9028号-2

HEALTH HarMoniCare Women & Children's Hospital 12018 Shennan Dadao, by Nanshan Dadao (3339 1333) 深圳和美妇儿科医院 南山区深南大 道12018号

Regus Serviced Office 雷格斯服务式办公室 • Flexible office leases from 1 day to 1 year • Quick and easy to set up for 1-200 people • Prices from RMB180 per month • Find more on Regus.cn • Tel: 400 120 1207 1) Futian Anlian, 26/F, Anlian CentreNo.4018 Jintian Road, Futian District; 2) A8 Building, 15/F, A8 Building, No.1002 Keyuan Road Tech Zone, Nanshan District; 3) Futian NEO, 44/F, NEO Tower A, No.6011 Shennan Avenue Futian District; 4) SCC, 7/F, Tower A, SCC Financial Centre, Junction of Houhai Avenue & First Haide Avenue Nanshan District; 5) New World Centre, 23/F, New World Centre, No.6009 Yitian Road Futian District; 6) Times Financial Centre, 14/F Times Financial Centre, No. 4001 Shennan Avenue Futian District; 7) New Times Plaza, 3/F, New Times Plaza,No.1 Taizi Road Shekou District; 8) Panglin Plaza, 35/F, Panglin Plaza, No.2002 Jiabin Road Luohu District; 1)深圳安联中心, 深圳市福田区

CLASSIFIEDS JOBS OFFERED Shenzhen Longrun Investment Co., Ltd, a fast-growing restaurant enterprise is looking for two foreign hostesses to join the team to greet and show hospitality to guests on behalf of the company. Requirements 1. Ability to understand and speak basic Chinese. 2. A minimum height of 168cm. 3. A passion for communications, with a presentable image. Monthly payments ranges from RMB 12,000 to 15,000 The options of full-time (RMB12,000 to 15,000 per month) or part-time (RMB70-90 per hour) employment are available. For inquiries and application, please contact Ms. Hu at 13631593166 or 075522909515. Mobile Game company business development position. A NASDAQ listed Shenzhen based mobile game company iDreamSky is looking for an expat for one business development position, native English speaker and fluent in Mandarin a must, well versed with mobile games or business negotiation experience a plus. Responsible for looking for Western games suitable for the Chinese market and contacting the game developers. Our office is located in NanShan district, Shenzhen. If interested, please send resume to Evan at email: evan.liang@idreamsky.com

MOVING & SHIPPING AGS Four Winds is leading international moving company offers a full range relocation, moving, and storage services. Our global network of over 300 offices worldwide plus 40 years experience in the moving industry, we know your concerns and have the ability to serve you anywhere in the world. We are FAIM & ISO 9001-2008 accredited, members of the FAIM and FIDI. Contact us for FREE survey and quotation: Tel: +8620 8363 3735/ +86 139 2277 1676 Email: manager.guangzhou@agsfourwinds.com Website: www.agsfourwinds.com Rayca Moving & Transportation Services With 10 years experience, Rayca provides international, domestic, local moving services & pet relocation service. We can effectively move you anywhere at competitive prices! You move, you save! Service hotline: 400-048-9099 Email: info@raycatrans.com Website:www.raycatrans.com

金田路4018号安联大厦26层; 2) 深圳A8大厦,深圳 市南山区科技园科园路1002号A8大厦15层; 3)深 圳NEO大厦, 深圳市福田区深南大道6011号NEO 企业大道A座44层; 4) 深圳中洲控股金融中心, 深圳 市南山区后海大道与海德一道交汇处中洲控股金融 中心A座7层; 5) 深圳新世界中心, 深圳市福田区益 田路6009号新世界中心23层; 6) 深圳时代金融中 心, 深圳市福田区深南大道4001号时代金融中心14 层; 7) 深圳时代广场, 深圳市蛇口区太子路1号新时 代广场3层; 8) 深圳彭年广场, 深圳市罗湖区嘉宾路 2002号彭年广场

China-Italy Chamber of Commerce Rm220, 2/F, International Chamber Of Commerce, Fuhua San Lu, Futian District (Tel: 8632 9518; Fax: 8632 9528). www. cameraitacina.com ` 福田区福华三路国际商会中心 2 楼 220 室

European Union Chamber of Commerce Rm 308, 3/F Overseas Chinese Scholars Venture Building, southern section of HighTech Industrial Park, Nanshan District (Tel: 8635 0920; fax: 8632 9785). 南山高新科技园南区留学生创业大厦 3 楼 308 室

French Chamber of Commerce in South China (CCIFC) Room 318, 3/F Chinese Overseas Scholars Venture Building,South section of Hi-tech Industry Park, Nanshan District (Tel: 8632 9602; fax: 8632 9736) www.ccifc.org 南山区科技园南区留学生创业大

厦3楼318室

German Chamber of Commerce 217 Chinese Overseas Scholars Venture Building, Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Nanshan District. (8635 0487) www.china.ahk.de 南山区高新科技园南区留学生创业大厦 217

The American Chamber of Commerce in South China Rm 208, 2/F Overseas Chinese Scholars Venture Building, southern section of High-Tech Industrial Park, Nanshan District (Tel: 0755-2658 8342; fax: 0755-2658 8341). www.amcham-southchina.org The British Chamber of Commerce, Shenzhen Sub-Chamber Rm 314, 3/F Overseas Chinese Scholars Venture Building, southern section of High-Tech Industrial Park, Nanshan District (Tel: 2658 8350). 深圳市南山区 高新科技园南区留学生创业大厦3楼314室

Morefoods No1,1F,Building A ,OCEAN city Garden,Shekou New Street, Nanshan District,shenzhen (0755-8827 9078) 深圳市 南山区蛇口新街澳城花园A栋一楼1号铺

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MAY 2018 | SZ | 75


MAY

nzhen e h S s ’ That

Horoscopes

Finally, a horoscope that understands your life in Shenzhen. BY DOMINIQUE WONG

Taurus

Gemini

Cancer

Leo

4.21~5.21

5.22~6.21

6.22~7.22

7.23~8.23

You’re itching to travel but this is not your month. Instead, opt for a staycation in Dapeng Peninsula. Pretend you’re new to Shenzhen: marvel at the Ping An IFC and when you spot your colleague at the hotel bar, ignore them.

Home takes focus with renovations and redecorating lighting up your stars. Trawl your ‘buy & sell’ WeChat groups for a good deal on sofa beds but always inspect before you buy. Employ a feng shui master for good measure.

With Saturn opposing your sign, things will get a little testy this month. Depending on your hobbies this may mean a doctor’s visit, Evil Duck pub quiz or HSK exam. Down a shot of baijiu every morning for good luck.

Your favorite time of the year is fast approaching: ‘Beijing bikini’ season. Prepare by eating copious amounts of jianbing and scaling back your workouts to zero. No pain, no gain. And don't forget the sunscreen.

8.24~9.23

Virgo

9.24~10.23

10.24~11.22

Scorpio

Sagittarius

Your new ‘consultancy’ job turns out to mean American college admission advisor and you’re not even from the US. Oh well, at least your office is in Houhai, Shenzhen’s best spot for window-shopping. Stop referring to it as ‘K-town,’ though.

While your fairness is admirable, it’s time to get off the fence when your landlord proposes a rent hike because of the new trash-sorting policy, which in no way affected your urban village neighborhood. What a load of garbage!

Your glass is half-full this month – literally, the water in your apartment will mysteriously turn off at the crappiest moment, like when you get a bad bout of food poisoning from the street cart outside. No worries, though, eh Scorps.

Congratulations on staying in Shenzhen for this long. Celebrate by getting the hell outta the heat. Try Harbin – there’s a beer museum and quality dumplings there, or so we hear.

Capricorn

Aquarius 1.21~2.19

Pisces

2.20~3.20

Aries

3.21~4.20

Live a little. Like, try Mobiking a different route to work or order something new on Shenzhen Eat (do you really need another sexy salad??). Or, try Meituan: their delivery fee is cheaper and money is tight this month.

You have three planets in your sign this month meaning that you must do everything in threes at all times. Drink three Tsingtao, eat three bowls of zhajiangmian , date in threes and you get the point ;).

You’re in an even dreamier mood than usual this month so be on high alert when wandering though your urban village or MixC, lest you end up in the wrong public square entirely. Eat zhou everyday for good luck.

It’s time for your visa run but you’re “over” going to Hong Kong. Try somewhere farther out, like Taiwan or South Korea. Though electrical glitches are rife this month, so make sure you book the correct date. Pack red underwear only.

12.22~1.20

76 | SZ | MAY 2018 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

Libra

11.23~12.21



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