SOMEONE’S IN THE KIT C HEN WITH THE SHARKEY PEARCE BROTHERS On a recent Friday night, the boys, who cut their restaurant chops at Terroni, cooked up a four course feast for a dozen wise– cracking eaters, including Cumbrae owner Stephen Alexander and his wife, Bella. The setting? Cosimo’s kitchen, of course. << Jess >> (to Lucas) I need to talk with. What the hell’s going on? There’s a restaurant opening up where Bar One used to be, and you and your brother are behind it, correct? << Cosi >> And tonight we are deciding the name of the place. << Jess >> (to Lucas) Are you comfortable with that? << Lucas >> I’m fine with it. I like the name Bear Cub. It’s actually not a great restaurant name but it’s the nickname of the chef. << Cosi >> You have to tell everybody at the table tonight as much as you can what the place is about and then at the end of the night we’re going to all write a name from your shortlist on a piece of paper. And if we don’t come up with something, I’m going to call it Casa della Mamma. << Lucas >> I wanted to call it Mother Bear or Bear Cub. Those are all “idea” names. But the short list is partly historical — names that have meaning for whatever reason, and are connected to us or the place. And there are names that are connected with the food but I don’t want it to be something you have to “get”. I just want it to be a word. << Cosi >> I like the sound of a one-syllable name, like Ter–ron–i. Just one syllable. Nice and simple. << Jess >> laughing << Lucas >> I like simple. You don’t have to get what it means to say it and remember it. We were going to put a constellation of Ursa Minor on the front wall and not have any name. You know Jacob’s nickname is Bear Cub. But that image might be there regardless of the name. What we do know is that what we’re putting on the plate is not exactly normal, but it’s very classic. << Jess >> What is it that’s not exactly normal? << Lucas >> We want to share what we’ve learned over the last five years. We’ve been working with professional athletes, patients in hospitals, very poor people, very, very rich people and mostly we found that they’re in the same situation: that there are dietary factors that you can’t control. We feed them things that are right for their needs but without stepping on their practical or emotional concerns. We don’t want to come up with a diet plan for you. But technically in the kitchen the methods are very reduced: what’s the maximum temperature that we
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CHEF JACOB SHARKEY PEARCE HAS RISEN THROUGH THE RANKS OF TORONTO KITCHENS AND SINCE 2006 HE AND HIS BROTHER, LUCAS, HAVE RUN THEIR OWN FOOD CONSULTING BUSINESS, TWO BROTHERS INC.
can take something to? How long can we cook it? So we’re picking our techniques and processes very carefully and then trying to provide as much nutrient-dense foods as possible. << Cosi >> All right. Is everybody in the house? << Jacob >> I’ve already had five glasses of wine. That was not a good idea. I would like to welcome everybody to what should be a delightful dinner. It’s a bit of an expression of what we’re going to be doing at the restaurant in three to seven to nine weeks from now (to laughter). Although we’re not talking about it, unless people ask, part of the philosophy of the restaurant is going to have a really conscious focus on nutrition. So we’ll have 10 to 14 items on the menu that will change seasonally. But the tasting menu, which would otherwise be called “your specials,” will be focused: something green and probiotic, something live and raw, some controlled protein portions. Everything is done with a lot of intention and artistry. It’s going to be beautiful, but still a little bit soulful, accessible. I think you will enjoy it, once you sit down to eat it. First Course: soup with five varieties of wild mushrooms, kombucha (fermented tea), chestnut agnolotti del plin and shavings of black truffle.
① “When you meet our general manager, Kosta Ketsilis, you’ll be so happy with him. He loves people. He’s a real master of servants. He’s been doing this for 16 years. He worked at Centro with Jacob in 2003 and he’s worked for Marc Thuet for five years. Every time, he gets promoted to head waiter by default because he takes care of everything. He’s that guy. He loves everybody and knows everybody. And all the big owners in the city have known this guy since he was in grade 8. He’s a natural.” LUCAS