31
Relocating the Basic Dart
Fig. 31. The basic dart in any pattern part may be relocated by the same method as used in the blouse front, i.e., pin in the basic dart, draw a line (dotted ) for the new dart, slash, and let pattern flatten out to reveal new dart space.
bias of the underarm seam is greater, and so forth. These differences influence you in planning a design; for example, for stripes, in making over an old garment, or in fitting a garment that has ample ease in the upper area but not much in the lower.
SUMMARY
Fig. 32. Cha nging the location of a basic dart by simply redrawing, Method Ill.
A variation of this method consists of measuring the dart at the wide end. Erase the lines. With a ruler measure and redraw a new dart of the same width and length. Fold in and correct the seam end of dart shape. Of course, you can always fold in the old dart and slash for a new one.
A basic dart may be relocated without changing the fit or size- all seam lines should be the same length as in the original pattern. A basic dart may be in any position radiating from the point of the bulge and ending on any outer edge. The larger the bulge the wider the basic dart. It is the angle that counts-it remains the same no matter in what direction it lies. Longer darts are wider at the seam end than short darts.
ASSIGNMENT Checking Patte rns
Make a copy of your original master pattern and pin in the basic dart to make a bulge. Pin in the dart or darts in your new pattern to make a bulge. Slip the new over the original. The bulges should nest or cup over each other exactly. The patterns should fit in every detail in length of all edges. Of course, when unpinned they will spread differently-one requires more cloth in the upper area, the other more below; in one the
I. Select a pattern book and count how many blouses having just one dart will have it at waistline, how many at shoulder, and how many at underarm. 2. Cut out and mount examples of the three basic darts, then examples of the three other locations as in Figure 30. 3. Redraw the location of the back shoulder dart on your foundation pattern. W hy would you ever do this?