Adventure Summer 2018 by Telluride Daily Planet

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CONTENTS

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i n th e w e s te rn san juans S U M M E R

Publisher: Andrew Mirrington Associate Publisher: Dusty Atherton, ext. 104

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———— [ EDITORIAL ] ————

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Editor: Rob Story, ext. 110

rob@telluridenews.com Contributors: Tanya Ishikawa, Katie Klingsporn, Jessica Kutz, Regan Tuttle, Kathrine Warren

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By Rob Story

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By Tanya Ishikawa

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DROPPING IN A L E TTE R F R OM T H E E D ITOR

elcome to Summer 2018. We bring you all kinds of sports, gear, destinations and advice in this new issue of Adventure, the first to be printed on sumptuous glossy paper. Please enjoy our new look and all the new stories. Go ahead and maximize the thrills on your next trip into the backcountry — but don’t forget to stop once in a while. Like a good story, every Telluride adventure has a beginning, a middle and an end. Adventures always have a beginning, even when you’re waiting for textbook dawdlers, and always have an end, even when you’ve been suffering a ceaseless case of chamois chafe. Where adventures go really bad is when they lack a good middle. An excursion without a good middle is like an Oreo filled with nothing but spit and dust. Smart outdoorsfolk know the best way to ensure a good middle is to stop and enjoy a rest break. To take a moment to look back on what you’ve climbed and to look forward to what you’ll cruise. To assimilate

The gondola connecting Mountain Village and the Town of Telluride drops into town over Telluride Ski Resort. (Photo by Shredded Elements Photography)

your surroundings, to connect with the wilderness, to ... oh, hell, it’s to sit around, eat and talk about wimmin. Or men. Or whatever you want to talk about. The point is to get comfortable and relax a sec. Type-A personalities turn up their snouts at the concept of rest stops because they think “rest” is all there is to it. Not hardly. I’ve spent rest stops bouldering, skinny-dipping, naming Oscar winners, playing fetch with dogs, making out (not with dogs), climbing trees, throwing a Frisbee, watching a bald eagle, clearing trails, and solving all the world’s problems. Rumor has it I once killed a man. Wait, that was Gatsby. If the Type-As in your life don’t want to stop, maybe they don’t know how. Remind them that they’re Mother Nature’s guests, and they owe it to her to set a spell and catch up. Then find a sweet place to do it. As in real estate, rest stops require three factors to succeed: location, location and, oddly, location. Some adventurers prefer a commanding vista, others enjoy a quiet leafy glade. Any view that blocks out civilization works.

As you sit there, watching the world without the normal oppressive frames (door, windshield, TV or phone screen), your body settles down. Your back and knees crack with glee. Your hair gets combed by the breeze. You start to breathe instead of pant. Consume something. To those who think water and energy bars suffice, I say, “Dare to dream.” Energy bars are a supplement, not the real deal. Bring food you actually look forward to, then relish it. Know that there’s nothing better than a good orange, just as there’s nothing worse than a bad orange. The juicier fruit the better. Ripe mangoes and pineapples are primo, just make sure they’re in a Zip-Loc so they don’t leak all over your bagel. Bring some Oreos, which symbolize your passage from the hard stuff to get to the creamy filling. Rational types may point out that Oreos are filled with sweetened lard. So what? Middles aren’t about fitness — they’re about pleasure. —ROB STORY, EDITOR

ROAD WITH IRONS

Telluride’s Via Ferrata uses cables and ladders to access cliff faces with astounding views

he first time I attempted rate-chopped. Which is, in the final Telluride’s Via Ferrata, analysis, a good thing: The Via Fertwo buddies and I bush- rata should stay mysterious. whacked up toward the Heck, the very term “Via Ferrata” route’s western end. As a remains a secret to most. I only pitiless Four Corners sun seared learned what it meant a few years the backs of our necks, we engaged ago, when I was skiing the Doloscrub and prickerbrush in hand-to- mite Mountains in Northern Italy. hand combat. I knew the Via Fer- Well, Via Ferrata means “road with rata was supposed to be somewhat irons” in Italian. A Via Ferrata has of a San Miguel Valley secret, but come to mean a route across steep this was ridiculous. There could at rock faces, built with steel ladders, least be, I don’t know, a rudimen- stairs, cables and sometimes sustary deer path up to it, right? Turns pension bridges. These steel holds out there sort of, kind of was such (which are bolted into the rock) ala path. We just couldn’t find it, no low carabiners to be locked onto matter how many branches we ka- them; suddenly, hikers/climbers/

backpackers with carabiners on the ends of climbing slings or daisy chains can feel utterly safe and secure above the gnarliest exposures, on the steepest pitches. The Dolomites are where the whole concept started. In World War I, the Austrians and the Italians fought a ferocious war in the mountains of the Dolomites — not only against each other but also against hostile conditions. In the particularly cold winter of 1916, thousands of troops died of cold, falls or avalanches. To help troops ascend at high altitude, permanent lines were fixed to rock faces and ladders >>>

B y ROB ST O RY

This close-up shows the vital connection of carabiners to cables. (Photo courtesy of Mountain Trip) adventure | SUMMER2018

Big rock, small humanoid. (Photo courtesy of Mountain Trip)

were installed. Chuck Kroger —a legendary Telluride adventurer and rock climber — first came across European Via Ferrate (yeah, that’s the plural spelling) way back in 1967 on a trip to the Alps. Once he settled for good in Telluride, Kroger became a trailbuilding fiend and an advocate for access to local woods and peaks. He started a tongue-in-cheek group for silent sports, the “Telluride Motorless Transit Authority” or TMTA. Says one member of the TMTA who doesn’t wish to be identified, “Chuck was a flippant guy. I remember him saying, ‘I don’t want do the Via Ferrate in Italy! It’s too far away and requires too big a carbon footprint! I’m gonna build my own….’” So he did. Starting in 2006, Kroger began looking for new adventure and was drawn to the ledge system, which Telluride’s Via Ferrata now traverses. He and friends ventured out to what is now known as the Main Event. They roped up and had a look around the corner and decided that with a few manmade holds, they could surmount these difficulties and thereby create a new trail — part protected climb, part mountain hike.

Kroger used his climbing skills to there was kind of a hairy moment ascend sheer faces, packing a rock negotiating a small pine tree stuck drill. He fabricated and installed the in the middle of a narrow ledge. initial iron rungs and added safety There’s no cable or protection there cable to the route. According to the at the tree, so you have to hug the TMTA stalwart, “Chuck had a vision pine and shuffle your feet around to that went far beyond ‘safe enough.’ the other side. The local VF has great fabrication. Telluride’s Via Ferrata requires no Chuck put in holds with five-and-a- special climbing skills — just a comhalf-inch bolts versus the two-and-a- fort with heights and steep terrain. half-inch bolts used in most climbing The route’s true drama comes on holds.” Main Event. That’s the name of the Then cancer took hold of Kroger. biggest sheer face, which plunges He died Christmas Day 2007. It fell an astounding 400 feet or so down to members of the TMTA to finish to the Valley Floor. You can’t help what Kroger started. Which they did. but feel like an insect on Main Event. Better yet, members of the TMTA You can’t help but breathe hard, no regularly clamber up to the Kroger’s matter how much you trust your Via Ferrata and check the solidity of harness and carabiners. But with the holds. the blue skies, crashing waterfalls When my buddies and I finally and green meadows interspersed emerged from the flesh-ripping with ruddy rock, there’s surely no thorns to find the VF that first time, better view in this already gorgeous we discovered steel supports that box canyon. could hold a 400-pound freak from “The Via Ferrata is not quite climb“The Biggest Loser.” The route was ing and not quite walking — more bomber. We clipped carabiners —at- an in-between land. It became sometached to our climbing harnesses via thing built by the community for the 3-foot slings — onto the gleaming community,” says the TMTA builder. silver cables and traversed out over For Chuck Kroger, legendary climbsteep rock faces. If we slipped, we’d er and global explorer, it was one fall only the length of the sling. more way for his home “to become And we didn’t fall. But, for me, his Yosemite.”

The Telluride Mountain Club (tel- ment isn’t worth it. Wear a quality climbing harness luridemountainclub.org) oversees the route; it recommends wearing with comfortable, adjustable waist standard alpine hiking clothing, plus a and leg loops. The lanyard setup that helmet, a comfortable harness and a attaches you and your harness to the method for connecting you, via your Via Ferrata’s metal hardware needs to be designed specifically for this purharness, to the route’s anchors. Head: Protect your brain from start pose — regular webbing, cordelette, to finish on the Via with appropriate or other climbing runners are not headgear; rock fall is a perpetual pos- designed to appropriately handle the sibility up there! Climbing helmets — shock of a fall, should one occur. A Via Ferrata lanyard consists of an which are lighter than ski/snowboard helmets — remain comfortable while energy absorber, two arms which connect to the cable with carabiners (so shielding your skull. Body: Your harness and energy-ab- you can easily shift your anchor point sorption system are keeping you from past bolts on the cable), and a means falling; cutting corners on this equip- of connecting to your harness. 10

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Feet: Prepare yourself for a successful and comfortable Via Ferrata adventure with footwear with good traction. Keep to the middle of the spectrum of technical shoes — you don’t need the heaviest of mountaineering boots, but don’t wear flip-flops. Boots or shoes designed for climbing approaches and/or alpine use are a good choice, since they have rigidity in the sole but are relatively light. Light hiking or trail running shoes are examples of appropriate footwear; also, it’s suggested climbers tie a double-knot on shoes before starting the route.

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hat’s adventure to me may be a dull afternoon to you, but to someone else, it may be an out-ofthe-question, no-way, not-going-todo-it-for-a-million-dollars sort of dangerous stunt. The Merriam-Webster definition of adventure is “an undertaking usually involving danger and unknown risks, and an exciting or remarkable experience.” So, according to those standards, adventure doesn’t actually have to be physically demanding or remote. In other words, a scenic flight, taking off from a convenient airport less than an hour from my house, where the most difficult part of the experience was climbing into my seat, can fall into the category of outdoor adventure, right? I have to convince myself of this fact, because last year at about this same time in April I was jumping out of a similar plane, attached to the front of someone I just met, who was attached to a parachute. This year, as I arrived at the airport hangar on a perfectly calm, sunny morning, I felt fairly unadventurous in comparison to the excited customers gearing up for their jumps. Ben Lowe started Ultimate Skydiving Adventures at quiet, little Blake Field Airport in Delta at the beginning of 2017, and in January, he opened Rocky Mountain Air Tours. As he puts it, “I have a huge passion for aviation.” He’s been skydiving for 13 years (more than 9,200 jumps) and flying for two years (230 hours). His wife, Melissa, has done more than 11,000 jumps and is a thirdgeneration skydiver. She helps out at the business when it’s busy, but spends more of her time running af-

ter their energetic and super smiley son. He’ll probably skydive for his first time before he’s 10 — why not? His mother did at 5. Ultimate is actually one of the only, if not the only skydiving company in the U.S., that takes up children as young as 12 for tandem skydives. But, I digress. Ron Widner, Rocky Mountain Air’s head pilot, was my tour guide for the hour-long scenic flight. Ron, as the website states, has flown everything from gliders to 727s, logging more than 13,000 hours as a pilot. This was comforting to know as we taxied away in a four-seat Cessna 182 that sounded more like a lawn mower than what most commercial air travelers are used to a plane sounding like. His take off was so effortless that my two flight companions and I were air bound and headed toward the Gunnison Gorge and Black Canyon in seconds. The views were outstanding, of course, and we all wore headsets with mics so we could talk to each other about landmarks, directions, mountain names and what we liked to do in the landscapes below. Widner is an avid outdoorsman, who loves exploring the wilderness with his family. They spend most of the summer camping and fishing on Grand Mesa, which is noted for having 300 lakes. He easily pointed out and named various peaks along every horizon, from Lone Cone to the west to Mount Sopris to the northeast. I’ve driven the south rim of the Black Canyon probably 25 times or more, but seeing deep into the rock fissure from the vantage point of a high-flying hawk was special. And getting a full view of the many roads into the nearby gorge and north rim, >>>

Above the Gunnison River in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Monument, the higher, southern end is still dusted with snow from mid-April storms. (Photo by Tanya Ishikawa)

Above: Writer Tanya Ishikawa and pilot Ron Widner pose for posterity in front of the Cessna 182 that only burned about 12 gallons of fuel during their hour-long tour. (Photo courtesy of Rocky Mountain Air Tours) Below: Needle Rock dominates the valley floor in Crawford at the foot of the West Elk Mountains, northeast of the Black Canyon and southeast of Grand Mesa. (Photo by Tanya Ishikawa)

that I have been meaning to explore dark trees outlining snow-covered The whole experience was so easy, but haven’t made time to, was in- meadows and ridges. The flight felt and relaxing that it’s hard to say I spiration to get out there someday so safe and smooth that one of my had an adventure. But, by definisoon. backseat companions actually fell tion, adventure was the right word Seeing Needle Rock in Craw- asleep as we glided (not at all si- for it. Flying in small planes can be ford was probably my favorite part lently) higher and higher. His friend risky (though the conditions and of the flight. I had no idea that the and I were able to rouse him when pilot’s experience reduced that sig800-foot-high, dark, castle-like Widner gave us a thrill that made us nificantly). And I would definitely volcanic plug — reminiscent of scream with delight. Flying only a describe my experience as remarkShiprock in New Mexico — was few hundred feet above the flat top able. Exciting … well, after skydivhidden in that green valley under of Indian Point and over the edge of ing, I reserve that word for more snow-covered slopes. I have to go the mesa, the ground dropped away, breathtaking experiences. Still, I hike around it this summer. making us feel like we had sledded certainly feel fortunate to have With snow having fallen the off a mountaintop. viewed my world from high in the week before, the flight over Grand Before we knew it, our hour tour sky. And, I’m inspired to discover Mesa National Forest revealed a was coming to an end and Widner new adventures around western black and white landscape with landed with feather-light precision. Colorado.

RISING STARS Must-see acts at Tellurideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s four music festivals

B y K AT HRINE WARRE N

Larkin Poe consists of two classically trained yet rocking sisters, who are descendants of the famed author Edgar Allen Poe.

Opposite: Billy Strings, a ripping guitar player, plays the Telluride Bluegrass Festival. (Courtesy photo) Above: Larkin Poe, comprised of sisters Rebecca and Megan Lovel, will play the 2018 Ride Festival July 14. (Courtesy photo)

here are adventures aplenty For festival promoters, it’s all about Telluride summer music festival in the San Juan Mountains, timing and keeping a close eye on season kicks off June 21, the summer but one of Telluride’s unex- the music scene. Take the summer of solstice, with the Telluride Bluegrass pected adventures entails 2015 as an example. Festival. Festival early birds are in for heading to the music festiTelluride Blues & Brews had a a treat with Billy Strings playing early vals early in the day to discover your relatively unknown band from Den- in the day that Thursday. next favorite band or musician. ver, Nathaniel Rateliff and the Night While dedicated bluegrass fans The Lumineers. Fitz & The Tan- Sweats, slated for an evening juke have known him for a few years, trums. Nathanial Rateliff and the Night joint gig and a mid-day main stage slot. Strings is picking up steam outside Sweats. Lake Street Dive. Head & The Just about a month and a half before of the bluegrass world, recently beHeart. The Revivalists. Avett Brothers. that year’s festival, the band played ing named one of the 10 new country Those bands were all relatively un- their song “S.O.B.” live on “The To- artists you need to know by Rolling known when they played one of Tel- night Show with Jimmy Fallon” (also Stone magazine. luride’s music festivals. Since then, the band’s TV debut) and the clip “Billy is one of those rare musicians those bands have been prominently went viral, shooting Rateliff’s album who can bring a fiery punk rock intenfeatured in Rolling Stone magazine, to the top of the charts. sity, while still being a virtuosic and put out albums at the top of charts, “That was really a festival director’s clean in his playing,” said Brian Eyster, and are selling out arenas and venues perfect storm, when you book some- the Bluegrass festival’s director of throughout the country. thing ahead of the curve and it blows communication. “Forget tarps and While most people may be attend- up like that,” said Steve Gumble, lowback chairs for this set, the entire ing Telluride’s four perennial music president of SBG Productions, which audience will be on its feet jumping by festivals for the headliners, it’s the produces Blues & Brews and the Tel- about the second song.” up-and-coming bands that can be a de- luride Jazz Festival. “That doesn’t hapEyster also predicts that the soulful light to discover. Although the bands pen all the time, but it feels good when folk bluegrass outfit Phoebe Hunt and featured in this story may not be it does.” the Gatherers, featuring Hunt’s hushousehold names yet, after their sets This summer’s slate of festivals is band Dominick Leslie, will be the talk on Town Park’s Fred Shellman Memo- pretty phenomenal, featuring a bevy of the festival. They play the festival rial Stage, they very may well be your of up-and-coming bands that will woo Friday, June 22, and also will have an new favorite band, as well as the next audiences when they play in the com- evening NightGrass slot at the Moon hot thing in the music industry. ing months. at O’Bannon’s later that evening. >>>

Childers’ debut album “Purgatory” was produced by country heavy hitter Sturgill Simpson (who’s headlining Bluegrass Festival this year), as it was named one of the 40 Best Country and Americana Albums of 2017. Tyler Childers will play the 2018 Telluride Ride Festival July 14. (Courtesy photo)

“The first time we saw them play — in a hotel in Kansas City — we couldn’t stop talking about them,” Eyster said. “Phoebe has star power and the Gatherers are the band to get her there.” The festival’s last day will start with a soulful Sunday set from the War and Treaty, a husband and wife duo. “Abigail Washburn was the first person to beg us to book this band,” Eyster said. “Between their emotional, personal histories with music, their warm soulful vocals and their honest songwriting, this husband- and wifeled band are irresistible.” Mid-July marks the 7th annual Telluride Ride Festival, which focuses mainly on rock ’n’ roll. While the festival has a great mix of new faces and some familiar ones, be sure to check out Larkin Poe and Tyler Childers, kicking the festival off on Saturday, July 14. “Tyler is blowing up,” festival organizer Todd Creel said. Childers’ debut album “Purgatory” was produced by country heavy hitter Sturgill Simpson (who’s headlining Bluegrass Festival this year), as it was named one of the 40 Best Country and Americana Albums of 2017. “He’s progressive and really authentic,” Creel added. Larkin Poe consists of two classically trained yet rocking sisters, who 18

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are descendants of the famed author Edgar Allen Poe. Their gritty yet sultry voices blend well with their guitar and lap steel licks and will have men and women alike swooning in Town Park. “We’re focusing heavily on the women of rock this year,” Creel said. “They’re really talented.” On Aug. 3-5, the 42nd annual Telluride Jazz Fest moves into Town Park. In its second year of being run by SBG Productions, this year’s lineup promises to introduce music fans to several new bands that promise jazz is alive and well with a younger generation of music makers. Hailing from England’s Manchester, Gogo Penguin blends jazz with electronica, bringing jazz music to a whole new demographic. Playing Friday, Aug. 3, Gumble says they’re sure to be a festival favorite. “I’ve heard nothing but good things,” he said. BadBadNotGood is actually a very good and young band hailing from Canada. These four 20-somethings came together over their shared love of hip-hop, and are forging their own path between the jazz and hip-hop worlds. The band will play Town Park on Sunday, Aug. 5. “I got a chance to see them in New York last January and it was phenomenal,” Gumble said. “They’re making

waves with the younger generation who don’t typically embrace jazz.” A little more than a month later, the SBG Productions crew will wrap up Telluride’s thriving music festival scene with the 25th annual Telluride Blues & Brews Sept. 14-16. In recent years, the festival has partnered with the Music Maker Relief Foundation, an organization aimed at preserving musical traditions of the America by uplifting artists who need support. “Although they’re not necessarily up and coming and new, they’re in the traditional vein of blues and deserve recognition,” Gumble said. Those artists include Pee Wee Hayes, Pat “Mother Blues” Cohen, The Glorifying Vine Sisters (playing the Gospel Set on Sunday, Sept. 16, at 11 a.m.). Many of the Music Maker Relief artists will play the Blues Stage, which is in the Hanley Ice Pavilion. Another musical surprise will be Son Little, who draws influence from Stevie Wonder and Jimi Hendrix, and has a modern-yet-soulful voice like Leon Bridges. Son Little plays Town Park on Saturday, Sept. 15. For a full schedule of each festival, visit bluegrass.com, ridefestival.com, telluridejazz.org and tellurideblues. com.

adventure | SUMMER2018

ADVENTURES Regional gear and guide services cater to every type of explorer

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ABOUND B y JE S S I C A K UT Z

Two anglers enjoy a successful day fly fishing the San Miguel River. (Photo by Ryan Bonneau/Courtesy of Telluride Sports) adventure | SUMMER2018

elluride was populated by intrepid miners who came to the San Juan Mountains in the hopes of finding gold. Today, that same adventurous spirit beckons people from all over the world to the region. They explore the peaks and valleys, the rivers and lakes, and all the special places in between. Visitors enjoy myriad choices to get off of Main Street and into the surrounding hills. Below is a list of tour operators and rental companies that can help outdoor enthusiasts of all skill levels discover adventures in and outside the box canyon.

BOOTDOCTORS 213 W. Colorado Ave., Telluride (Main Street location) bootdoctors.com 970-728-4525 Another Telluride hotspot, Bootdoctors’ summer rentals run the gamut of mountainsports gear. It also conducts a number of unique guided tours. With stores in both Telluride and Mountain Village, Bootdoctors makes a convenient place to stop in for backpacking gear, bicycles, SUPs, inflatable kayaks and river tubes, and even disc golf sets. Tour-wise, the outfitter has expanded its guided mountain biking trips this year to include the Ridgway Area Trails and the Norwood Burn Canyon Trails (for more advanced riders). The operator also offers trips on nearby Galloping Goose trail, which is “still the best beginner option around,” said Bootdoctors staffer Bryce Young. For an even more relaxed time on the trail, check out the Bike and Craft Tour, which takes guests three miles outside of Telluride on the River Trail. Then participants deploy their kickstands and sip some tasty Telluride Brewing Company beer and spirits from Telluride Distilling Co. The pedal back to town always comes too soon. Rental rates vary. 22

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BOX CANYON BICYCLES 300 W. Colorado Ave., Telluride boxcanyonbicycles.com 970-728-2946 Box Canyon Bicycles is another great option when it comes to renting a set of wheels. The store stocks road, full-suspension mountain bikes, carbon full-suspension demos, electric carbon full-suspensions, fat bikes and electric cruisers. Most options rent for $65 per day, with the exception of carbon full-suspension bikes ($89) and electric mountain bikes ($99). While the company does not run tours, owner Travis Young said employees are happy to provide detailed instructions for routes in the area. “This way we can cater to each person’s ability,” he said.

COLORADO 145 697 Mountain Village Blvd., Mountain Village colorado145.com 970-519-8004 Locally owned, Colorado 145 is a Jeep rental company based in Mountain Village. The company rents vehicles out of two locations: one in Montrose, which operates year-round (and is conveniently located at the airport) and another in Mountain Village, which runs summer rentals from June-September. In Montrose, Jeeps can be rented for $200 a day; rentals in the Mountain Village are between $225-$350 a day.

Opposite: A mountain biker makes his way down the trail as Wilson Peak stands guard. (Photo by Ryan Bonneau/Courtesy of Telluride Sports) Below: A Colorado West Jeep ventures on a trip into the backcountry. (Photo courtesy of Colorado West Jeeps)

COLORADO WEST JEEPS 701 Main Street, Ouray coloradowestjeeps.com 970-325-4014 For those looking to get out of town, check out Colorado West Jeeps on Ouray’s Main Street. The company provides visitors with access to several adventures that depart out Ouray’s box canyon. Apart from Jeep and Polaris R2R UTV (an open air off-road vehicle, which visitors can rent by the day, and in some cases half day) rentals, the company offers guided group tours that take guests on a backroads tour of the backcountry; the most popular visit Yankee Boy Basin and Imogene Pass. On top of the adventure, customers acquire historical knowledge; the local guides are full of fascinating info. The adventure company, which has been family owned since the 1980s, also arranges pickups for guests at Montrose Regional Airport. Rental rates for Jeeps range from $170-$296 per day, depending on model and season; $325-$350 per day for R2R UTV rentals (which can hold up to six people depending on model). Guided tours start at $58 (adult) for a half-day.

JAGGED EDGE 223 E. Colorado Ave, Telluride jagged-edge-telluride.com 970-728-9307

MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE EQUIPMENT 560 Mountain Village Boulevard, Mountain Village mtn-eqp.com 970-614-1000

A mainstay on Telluride’s Main Street, Jagged Edge is a local staple when it comes to mountaineering gear. Mountain Adventure Equipment is While that rings true year-round, the a new summer rental company that store also transforms into a one-stop offers door-to-door delivery service SUP shop during the summer. The for bikes, SUPs and outdoor accessostore hosts free weekly paddle board- ries from coolers to kid carriers. The ing nights every Tuesday from 5-8 valet-style service also offers personp.m., June-August. For those in need alized fittings for its mountain bike of a SUP, the store rents them for $40 rentals, which range in price from $50a day, which also includes a helmet, $95 and include Yeti, Giant, Transition paddle and personal flotation device. and Marin brands. The company also For those looking for something fun runs a “kids rent free” promotion with to do in the Montrose area, Jagged a 3-day adult package (mid- or demo Edge’s sister store, Montrose Kayak level). For those looking to have a and Surf, also rents gear, including little fun on the San Miguel River, the SUPs, inflatable duckies, whitewater company offers stand-up paddleboard and flat-water kayaks, packrafts, and rentals and delivers them directly to river tubes for $40 per day. The com- vacation accommodations — helping pany hosts free weekly demo nights guests load and unload gear directly every Wednesday at the Montrose into the river on the Valley Floor. Watersports Park from 6-8 p.m., June- Boards start at $44 a day. If you are August. looking for a more comfortable way to explore, the company also rents luxury SUVS, and any rack you might need. “We hope to pair all of these together to create the ultimate adventure package waiting at your vacation accommodation,” Owner Greg Carberry said. >>>

RIDGWAY ADVENTURE SPORTS 109 N. Lena St., Ridgway 970-626-8500 ridgwayadventuresports.com

TELLURIDE OUTSIDE 121 W. Colorado Ave., Telluride tellurideoutside.com 800-831-6230

TELLURIDE SPORTS 150A W. Colorado Ave., Telluride (Main Street location) telluridesports.com 970-728-4477

Telluride Outside has an adventure for everyone in the family. PhotograBesides its Main Street flagship, phy tours are completely customiz- Telluride Sports has several locations able and can travel as close as Bridal in Telluride and Mountain Village. The Veil Falls or as far away as Black company offers an array of bicycle Canyon of the Gunnison. The outfit- rental options, including downhill ter also offers fly fishing tours on the and free-ride bikes, as well as frontSan Miguel, Dolores, Uncompahgre suspension and “comfort cruisers” for and Gunnison rivers, including a new more leisurely rides through town. three-day, two-night guided tour with Telluride Sports offers fly fishing tours lodging at the Dolores Canyon Ranch. through San Miguel Anglers, which In addition to fly fishing and photog- is based in the Main Street location. raphy, the company also offers rafting, San Miguel Anglers guide customers SUP and four-wheel drive tours. Hop throughout the Dolores, San Miguel in a jeep for tours up mountain pass- and Uncompahgre watersheds. “The es, to mining towns and to the luxury trips allow guests to get outside of resort at Dunton Hot Springs, where town, explore our beautiful river valguests enjoy a gourmet lunch and hot leys and soak up the best of a day on springs soak as part of the package. the river with knowledgeable locals,” Prices start at $80 for half-day group said Nathan Frerichs, marketing mantours. ager for Telluride Sports. Bike rentals range between $48-$84, depending on the style of bike and length of rental. Fly fishing trips range from $300-$400, and include all equipment. Guests can A group mountain biking tour poses with their steeds at the trailhead. (Photo courtesy of Bootdoctors) save up to 20 percent for bike rental reservations made in advance online at bikerentals.epicmountaingear.com/ telluridesports.

While Ridgway Adventure Sports may be the new shop on the block, by no means are co-owners Andy Persio and Jessica Swain strangers to the area. Persio has explored the San Juan Mountains for decades and Swain has family in Ouray. Their store, which opened in May, is a onestop shop for all your biking needs, offering rentals and demos, as well as top gear and a full-service repair shop. Demo prices, which include a helmet and gloves, are $60 for 4 hours and $80 for a full day. Demo prices can be put toward the purchase of any new full-suspension mountain bike within six months of the demo. Rentals, which include a helmet, are $30 for 4 hours and $45 for a full day.

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Creative Mexican Cuisine & Cocktails Open Mon – Sat 11am – Close Closed Sun 2 1/2 Blocks West of Townsend on Main Street Montrose · CO

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LITTLE CONE RANCH 21 - Specie Mesa Private 38 acres offer verdant meadows, aspen trees & great Wilson views. $449,000

Polly Leach-Lychee Owner/Broker plychee@tellurideproperties.com | 970.369.5333, Direct I 970.728.0808, Office 237 South Oak Street @ the Telluride Gondola | Telluride, Colorado 81435 I tellurideproperties.com adventure | SUMMER2018

FRUITS

OF THE FOREST

here comes a time each summer in Telluride when the bluebird afternoon skies of late June begin to rumble and turn moody. Soon they pull dark curtains over the valleys, send out frightful bolts of lightning and unleash great deluges of rain onto the San Juan Mountains, often on a daily schedule as regular as clockwork. The summer monsoons, as they are known, can cut outdoor adventures short, turn trails into muddy messes and make the festival experience mighty chill. Yet they also play a pivotal role in birthing the region’s finest time of year — at least from a mycological perspective: mushroom season. As rains soak the earth, they coax an incredible eruption of fungi out of

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THE SAN JUANS ARE HOME TO A FANTASTIC KINGDOM OF MUSHROOMS

By KATIE KLINGSPORN

mountain forests. From iconic red- mushrooms is substantial enough to capped amanitas to spindly coral warrant one of its more well-estabmushrooms, bulbous puffballs, shelf- lished festivals: The Telluride Mushlike clusters of oysters and speci- room Festival. The festival, which is mens so delicate they resemble fairy entering its 38th year this summer, parasols, the denizens of the local annually gathers fungiphiles, foodies, mushroom kingdom represent a wild, cultivators, scientists, and individuotherworldly and fascinating assort- als interested in the medicinal and ment of organisms. psychedelic aspects of mushrooms. Around here, only our much-exalt- Fungi aficionados from all over make ed wildflowers offer a better gander. the pilgrimage for three days of forBetter yet, you can eat some of ays, presentations, panels and the them. Among the weird, kaleido- always-colorful Mushroom Parade. scopic and even drab mushrooms John Sir Jesse is a local guide who out there are many prized edibles, has led both plant walks and Mushmaking the San Juans an excellent room Festival forays here for decades. destination for foraging. Sprouting in Sir Jesse contends the summer monmeadows, rocky hillsides and under soonal pattern makes Telluride an pine trees are coveted culinary trea- elite destination for mycologists. sures such as boletes, chanterelles, “It’s a combination of soil and trees hawks wings and shaggy manes. and moisture,” Sir Jesse said. “The Telluride’s range and variety of mycelium that’s underground is al-

ways there. It’s just waiting for the the San Juan mountains. right temperature and water conJust beware of a common danger tent to send up a fruiting body. And for mushroom fanatics: getting so that’s what mushrooms are, the caught up in the fantastic world of fruiting body of the organism.” fungi that you end up losing your Still, the reputation of toadstools way. and poison remains pervasive. Sir Jesse said he encounters a lot of fear FORAGING TIPS from people who believe hunting for Mushroom hunters are notoriousmushrooms in the wild is a perilous ly secretive about their stashes, so pastime. He says it’s important to don’t expect them to tell you where exercise caution, learn from experts to go. Here are other hints for mushor books, and be judicious. He notes, room newbies: however, that only one deadly poi• Purchase a ﬁeld guide. There are sonous mushroom is known to grow plenty of small pocket-sized ones, in this region — compared to 10 spe- but for a classic guide laced with cies of deadly plants. The culprit, he humor, check out David Arora’s “All said, is a small brown mushroom that the Rain Promises and More.” that grows on trees and does not re- (It even features a photo of Tellusemble any popular edibles. ride.) For people who still find the pros• Head to elevations of 10,000 feet pect of eating wild mushrooms dan- or higher for the biggest abundance gerous, here’s the good news: Going and variety of mushrooms. Search on a mushroom walk is fun, educa- in spruce and pine forests, and keep tional and fascinating all on its own. to the margins where forests give Leaving the trail and heading into way to meadows. the woods to scan the forest floor • A small, curved knife is best for for fungi is an excellent way to learn harvesting mushrooms, and make the plants, animals and contours of sure to clean dirt and duff off as you

go (it’ll save a lot of work later). A mesh bag or basket will allow the mushrooms to drop their spores as you walk. • Practice caution. Cross-check mushrooms with field guides or mushroom experts, and any time you try a new mushroom, even if you are sure it’s edible, start small. Cut a single morsel, cook it well, eat it and wait two days. If you feel fine, cut and cook a slightly larger batch, and go from there (wild mushrooms should always be cooked before consuming). • If you are looking for a guide, John Sir Jesse leads both private mushroom walks and public ones during the Telluride Mushroom Festival. He can be reached at herbwalkertours@earthlink.net.

SHROOMFEST:

The 2018 Telluride Mushroom Festival is scheduled for Aug. 16-19. To see a full schedule or purchase tickets, visit telluridemushroomfest.org.

Opposite: Boletes erupt from the forest floor in the San Juans on a sunny August day. (Photo by Katie Klingsporn) Above: A small bounty of edible mushrooms. (Photo by Katie Klingsporn)

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ot 536 is truly an oversized estate parcel in Mountain Village and located near the end of Russell Drive. The lot borders open space and a seasonal stream runs through the property. Lot 536 has easy ski access and proximity to the golf course. Call broker for a tour. Offered at $895,000

ucked into the base of the ski area just steps from Lift #7. Mountainside #310 is a standard hotel room, with kitchenette, in the 300 building. The property is located across from the free Galloping Goose shuttle service and San Miguel River trail, allowing guests to take advantage of downtown Telluride in all seasons. Hotel rooms offer access to a common outdoor hot tub and complementary wireless internet service. Mountainside Inn guests also have access to charcoal grills, bike racks, limited courtyard parking, and coin-operated laundry facilities. Offered at $170,000

ruly one of the more exceptional Mountain Village lots. Grandstand views of the Wilsons, West Meadows and Sunshine wrapping back to the Ski Area and San Sophias as well. Borders open space and offers easy access for building with lots of sunshine. Call for details or a tour. Offered at $499,000

JAMES F. LUCARELLI Providing Expert Representation for Buyers and Sellers

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970.728.0213 • 970.708.2255 Jim@TellurideAffiliates.com • www.TellurideAffiliates.com 657 West Colorado Ave. (in front of Hotel Telluride)

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CYCLING ALONG THE UNCOMPAHGRE The San Juan Hut System — or more accurately, buckets of sweat and countless pedal strokes — will take you to the most remote and freaky geography in Colorado

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B y R O B S TO RY

Hut, sweet hut: The Spring Creek cabin makes a fine base for bike maintenance. (Courtesy photo)

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ccording to the book “Don’t Know Much About Geography,” Colorado calls itself the Centennial State, and sometimes the Lead State. OK, but isn’t there more to Colorado than just big anniversaries and thick metal? Well, yes, and that’s why Colorado also calls itself America’s Switzerland. Sure, it’s a dumb name, too. It’s derivative and embarrassingly Eurocentric. (You don’t see Belgium calling itself “Europe’s Delaware,” do you?) It’s also inaccurate. “America’s Switzerland” boasts no famous cheeses and will charge you full retail for a bag of Ricolas. Granted, Coloradans can find lederhosen and cowbells if they look hard, but, hell, every last one of those Denver fetish clubs wants a two-drink minimum. Let’s assume, for the sake of argument, that this Switzerland business involves mountains somehow. Colorado does ripple with more 14,000foot peaks than any other state —

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more, even, than Switzerland itself. it. Haven’t heard of it? Don’t worry; The southwest part of the state holds neither have most mountain bikers. the greatest concentration of 14ers. And neither, really, has that big bully, The San Juan Mountains are so rid- Civilization. Telluride, of course, sits in a box dled with cloud-scratching pyramids that geographers apparently ran out canyon in the middle of the San Juans. of names; hence, Mt. Wilson and Wil- It may never be quite the mountain son Peak. You can, could, should ride bike mecca that Crested Butte is, yet your bike in the shadow of the San sweet trails do lace the hillsides. You Juans. Ride the San Juan Hut System, could be perfectly content riding Telin fact, and you can look at the San luride for a week’s vacation. But sumJuans (and other whoppers) for 215 mer in Colorado’s mountain towns means dawdling souvenir shoppers off-road miles. You’ll ride from the alpine peaks and the constant beep beep beep of of Telluride to the red rock deserts working bulldozers — sensations my of Moab. Between these two vastly group of four meant to escape. So on different mountain bike havens is a a perfect afternoon for singletrack geologic freak, an extended uplift of noodling, we rolled out of town on earth to 9,000 feet. It’s as if some cos- pavement, looking to hook up with mic baker filled a baking sheet with the longest fireroad we’d ever ride. The first day’s ride, from Telluride dollops of batter that were meant to grow, like cookies, into individual to the Last Dollar Hut, was only 15 mountains, but the batter all ran to- miles, but it torched us. The route, gether. The result is a 90-plus-mile on a winding dirt road somewhere mass of elevated earth. Call it moun- in the vicinity of Tom Cruise’s Colorado compound, gained 2,700 oxytain loaf. Or call it the Uncompahgre Pla- gen-starved feet. Riding with the unteau. That’s what geographers call familiar weight of panniers made the

incessant climb even more disturb- his former partner had established a try. We feasted on pizza loaded with ing. Between breaths that sounded smaller backcountry skiing hut sys- pepperonis, mushrooms and garlic, like croaks from emphysemic bull- tem going from Telluride to Ridgway. inhaled pasta with peas and basil, frogs, I wondered if my summer of His former partner thought Ryan was swilled the wine and topped it all off fatty lunches and sit-up avoidance a bit daffy to want to string huts all with generous portions of Oreos. We might somehow cause discomfort the way to Moab — mountain biking would have slept the sleep of goutand frustration. was still in its toddler years — but addled kings if not for the sheep. The We crested Last Dollar Pass at Ryan’s first wife had just left him and slopes below the hut were filled with 10,663 feet, which should have been he needed a serious diversion. Now, them. We came to know that sheep a reward but only meant we had to the SJHS huts are often busy, prov- don’t just bleat. They yowl. Belch. climb an even steeper trail to the hut. ing that mountain bikers are always Roar. Yawn. And just when you’re Three-hundred vertical feet of hike- looking for a good time, so long as about to nod off, they let fly with a a-bike and assorted curses later, we it burns their lungs and puts them in blood-curdling scream. I can only reached the hut. The views of distant the middle of glorious nowheres. hope that by now those sheep have peaks, with lush green bases and Ryan’s reverence for the moun- attained mutton status. thinning stripes of snow, compensat- tains was clear. He pointed to a draDay 2 came earlier than necesed for the climb’s injustices. Stocked matic rock knob to the east and said sary. Still, it’s a good Tuesday mornwith M&Ms, beer and wine, and lined he’d named it Han Shan after the ing that doesn’t involve alarm clocks, with bunks sporting thick flannel ancient Chinese poet who wrote of razors or traffic reports. Yawning and sleeping bags, the hut seemed a kind mountains’ great spirituality. He de- stretching, we stepped out of the hut of paradise. Of course, we were so fended the pack rat that once crawled and into a warm wash of undiluted eager to stop we would have gladly across a guest’s face by saying, “Pack sunshine. July in the San Juans is like curled up on the floor of an Albuquer- rats are actually pretty cool animals late spring in the lower elevations. que methadone clinic. — they’re mountain animals.” Even Wildflowers sprung in full bloom out Joe Ryan, founder of the San Juan the outhouse enjoyed a mind-blow- of green grass, attracting the interest Hut System (SJHS), visited us at the ing view of Ryan’s beloved peaks. of pollinating bees. Horny elk bugled hut. Before building huts on the UnWhen Ryan left, so did our inhibi- for love. Later, we’d ride by cows compahgre back in 1988, Ryan and tions about plundering the hut’s pan- that were knocking hooves. Aestheti>>>

The earth falls away from westbound riders on the San Juan Hut System. (Courtesy photo) adventure | SUMMER2018 33

cally speaking, the sight of humping bovines isn’t so beautiful, but it says nice things about the romance of the season, no? Moving mostly downhill (the day’s itinerary called for 3,000 feet of descent and only 1,600 feet of ascent), we paralleled Hastings Mesa — a dry, ruddy-looking outcrop that extended from a place where skiers got head injuries to a place where roadrunnerchasing coyotes got head injuries. We coasted down gentle, smooth fireroad all the way to Colorado Highway 62, the last chunk of pavement we’d see for several days. The Uncompahgre National Forest is a great place for anyone seeking solitude, or for that matter, anyone kidnapping an heiress. Our five minutes on Highway 62 were the only place on the whole trip where a hostage could have screamed to any effect. In the 26.3 miles separating Last Dollar from the second night’s Spring Creek Hut, we saw trees and mountains but almost no people. Such solitude is becoming increasingly hard to find in Colorado. The state’s growth rate is the eighth highest in the U.S.; it added 77,000 people between July 2016 and July 2017. Riders take a break beneath aspen trees. (Courtesy photo) The numbers only make the isolaing. The difference is that you don’t tion of the Uncompahgre that much mass quantities of food. more remarkable. We rode along in a On the morning of our third day, get your jollies from ecstatic bursts perpetual daze of undisturbed beauty, we came across an old rancher toting of rolling singletrack, but rather, as if a Viewmaster had been welded six grandchildren around in a huge from every last thing you do. In the backcountry, significance to our skulls. For hours we looked Ford Bronco. Interested to hear voicat photogenic landscapes saturated es other than our own, we listened as invests each change in your day. A in color. The only signs of human in- he drawled about living on the Un- meal becomes a sacred respite that cursion were few and tiny — a bullet- compahgre Plateau for 40 years. Still, demands the utmost attention to riddled sign here, a cattleguard there. he said, “You never know all the Un- food preparation; I can’t tell you how The downside, I suppose, is that compahgre. It’s still too big and wild. obsessed I became with finding exthe Uncompahgre hasn’t experi“We see lots of bears and elk. actly the right combination of spices enced enough visitors to warrant Mountain lions, too. Ah took four to flavor the huts’ canned chicken. recreational singletracks. Our road, bear just last year.” (Note: In the re- Building a simple campfire is an exerDivide Road or FR 402, more than gion’s parlance, “took” means “shot,” cise in nuance — what kind of wood? served the needs of the few ranch- not catching and donating it to the Fueled by what kindling? Arranged in ers and odd loggers who worked the Sierra Club.) “Bear,” he continued, a teepee or a pile? Your mood, your plateau. It was fun, at the end of each “tastes great. Bear’s a member of the whole world, can hinge on your abiliday, to search for the short footpaths pig family. You render it down, make ty to make a pedal crank stop squeakthat led from fireroads to the huts. lard, build a fire, and smoke it. Tastes ing. Typically, they were hard to find, as just like pork.” The days settled into a sweet rouAfter burning calories galore on tine. In the mornings we rose slowly, the huts — well disguised in natural wood or green paint — were nestled our daily six-hour rides between huts, truly waking only after the most ambideep in woods to keep trespassers we knew something about piggish- tious of us started hand-grinding cofat bay. The Spring Creek Hut, for in- ness. The exertion and the old saw fee beans. We took time to enjoy our stance, was reached by these direc- that “everything tastes better out- hut-bound chores. Stirring pancake tions: “...after third cattleguard look doors” made eating an all-consuming batter. Making PB&J sandwiches for for a water bar ditch going off to your passion. Many was the time one of lunch. Pouring water from the hut’s left, and a large cut stump of a Doug- us would say, “This is the best Oreo five-gallon jugs into hydration packs. las Fir tree.” We’d sometimes ques- I’ve ever tasted” — while reaching for Making the purposeful walk through tion our bearings, but locating a hut cookie No. 8. fragrant pines to the outhouse. The We were mountain biking, but it’d nights weren’t much different. We’d was always a happy occasion that demanded instantaneous snarfing of be more accurate to call it bike tour- slip out of bike clothes into baggy 34

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shorts, make some outrageously great dinner and drag the foam mattresses and sleeping bags outside to sleep next to the dwindling campfire. We dawdled happily. Because we always knew where we were going to stop that evening, and because the long July days ensured we’d get there well before dark, hurrying was silly and futile. We tended to linger around the huts as long as possible, enjoying views from fire rings instead of stress from telephone rings. Anxieties and other real-world concerns simply vanished at the huts. With the big water jugs aiding basic hygiene, we didn’t even miss running water or showers. Nor did we fret our greasy hair and dirty faces, because the huts didn’t even have mirrors. Have you ever gone six days without seeing your reflection? Try it sometime. Hell, you’ve got the rest of your life to look at yourself. Toward the evening of the fourth day, the sun that had been steadily parching us became obscured by clouds. In the far-off desert, we could see lightning strikes. That night, rain even pattered the Big Creek Cabin. Unlike the other SJHS huts, Big Creek was not built with plywood. A

of singletrack-deprivation. There’s something to be said about delayed gratification, and whether it’s “Yessssss!” or “What took so damn long?” the feeling still makes you happy as a bobcat in a room full of small, flightless birds. After descending for about eight miles, Ute Creek turned abruptly uphill. The trail became an overgrown, unrideable beast. One bastard of a branch even snagged my sweet rain jacket off my backpack without my knowledge. But even a scratchy hikea-bike couldn’t dim the joy of the Ute Creek descent. Back on fireroad, we rolled closer to our final destination, the town of Gateway. Though the landscapes were slowly changing — aspens vanishing, pines turning scrubbier with each mile — the plateau seemed little different than when we first spun onto it three days earlier. Then, cresting a hill, we saw the plateau meet a sudden death. It was easily one of the most dramatic landscapes any of us had ever seen. We could see for hundreds of miles, the last scrim of Colorado and far into Utah. The Uncompahgre Plateau simply dropped thousands of feet, from alpine heights to red-rock valley floors. Before us lay a ruddy dirtroad, desperately hugging the plateau’s northwestern-most edge as it receded almost out of sight to the flats below. It promised one of the biggest downhills imaginable, a welldeserved dessert after five days of plateau chewing. And we — the Oreo gorgers, M&M hoarders and Chips Ahoy aficionados — knew a little something about the value of dessert. We leveled our pedals, positioned our hands near the brake levers and dropped into the void. Though savory, it ended way too quickly. It seemed we’d spent much of our adult lives on that plateau, yet it became nothing but a memory after one, simple 30-minute-downhill. In a way, the fast conclusion was like flying home in a jet after a long trip overseas: After a long time in an exotic place, an abnormally quick return can make it all seem fake or unreal. But the Uncompahgre Plateau is very, very real. It’s just that all good mountain loafs — like bike trips — must come to an end.

turn-of-the-century rancher’s cabin, it’s made of chinked logs, stacked together and slathered with a bit of mortar. It sat on a distant corner of a ranch, surrounded by aspens and ponderosa pines, and offering views of galloping horses. The last hut dwellers had left behind a bunch of Busch beer and we felt truly Rocky Mountain-ous ... in the moments that we didn’t feel like trailer trash. We’d decided earlier not to go all the way to Moab. We were into the unknown Colorado aspect of the SJHS, so there was no need to ride to a place in Utah everyone’s already heard about — especially in July heat when the climb over the La Sal Mountains was reputed to be a foot deep in dust. So when we took off from Big Creek’s picturesque valley on Day 5, we knew our return to civilization was close. Eight miles into the ride, we took a right into another dimension. Singletrack. The Ute Creek Trail embodied the kind of singletrack for which Colorado is famous. It darted between aspens, clung to off-camber hillsides, Check sanjuanhuts.com for inforplunged into a red-dirt wash and basically transported us to a rapture made mation or make reservations at 970all the sweeter by the past few days 626-3033. adventure | SUMMER2018

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EXCEPTIONAL

EQUESTRIANISM Horseback adventures abound in southwest Colorado; Here are some of the best

If you’ve got a rig and your own horses, there’s nothing like a joyride up toward Lone Cone. (Photo by Regan Tuttle)

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B y RE GA N T U T T LE

inston Churchill watching the mustangs (yes, there are mothers and daughters travel togethsaid it first: “The wild horses right here in San Miguel er to the Many Ponies Ranch to use best thing for the County) to learning real cowboy stuff, the outdoor arena and to drink up inside of a man is there’s an outlet for would-be horse Foxwell’s encouraging instruction. the outside of a people. Finley and Foxwell treat boarders horse.” Since then many a horseman (those who keep their horses at the has echoed the old proverb, knowing MANY PONIES OUTFIT ranch for a monthly fee) to adventure there is something special, healing or Norwood’s Paul Finley and Lisa rides throughout summer. They ride even magical about the equine spe- Foxwell have owned a horse business picturesque trails through unique cies, whether that’s petting or groom- going on 30 years. The couple has op- parts of San Juan Mountains country. ing a horse, or tacking up and going erated in both Telluride and Norwood, for a ride. and now reside full time on Wright’s OLD SAWMILL RANCH Horse people differ in their riding Mesa. Foxwell, with a background in Also in Norwood is Pam Brownstyles and their ways of working with both English and Western riding dis- lie at Old Sawmill Ranch. Brownlie animals. What’s special about this ciplines, is a go-to for riding lessons, specializes in natural horsemanship area is that there truly is something especially for beginners. She’s also a and has studied with experts like Pat for everyone. great resource for people who used to Parelli. In the summers, Brownlie In the Telluride region, opportuni- ride and would like to get back into conducts youth horsemanship camps, ties abound for those who want to the sport. often partnering with the Telluride interact with horses — in the saddle She and Finley have on-site a string Academy. or otherwise. From riding lessons of super broke (gentle) horses perHer ranch features the most gentle to therapeutic discovery work, from fect for the aspiring equestrian. Often, of old horses, ideal for young or begin>>>

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ning riders. Brownlie, also a physical birthday gatherings with children, so therapist, incorporates ropes course kids can experience horses in a safe, work into her youth programs. She educational and yet still adventurous says it’s a way to build strength, bal- way. ance and confidence — skills that are necessary in horsemanship. METAPHORSE RIDING Brownlie believes in the therapeuINSTRUCTION tic benefits of the horse-human relaJody Nixon of Montrose is another tionship. Recently, she’s been study- equine expert teaching horsemanship ing Natural Lifemanship, a program skills. She works in different ways, through which horses are used to both in the saddle and on the ground. ease trauma. In addition to riding lessons, Nixon Some locals contact Brownlie for leads self-discovery workshops with 40

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horses for women and men of all ages. In her workshops, Nixon said, the horses are the real teachers; she’s simply the facilitator. During group work, she assigns people tasks to do with a horse — like picking up a horse’s foot, leading a horse with no rope or a similar exercise. She said the horse works as a mirror for participants, and through the horse’s behavior, participants gain insight about their own fear, fatigue, courage or hidden emotions.

The Spring Creek Preserve in San Miguel County is home to a herd of wild horses that the public can visit and photograph. (Photo by T.J. Holmes)

“Some come afraid of horses, and they get out of their comfort zone and face their fears,” she said. In the end, either through saddling up or workshopping, Nixon said her clients learn about themselves.

sional horseman, Wood has spent his and boarding; clients of all levels and lifetime starting young horses, show- abilities come for lessons. With both ing competitively and coaching oth- indoor and outdoor arenas and an ers in the highest level of riding. advanced trail course with obstacles, He’s known for his expertise in he has the infrastructure to ride 365Western disciplines, like reining, cut- days a year. His place also sits next ting and working cow horse — and to Bureau of Land Management land, DOUBLETREE HORSE FARM he has the trophies and belt buckles and the trail rides in his “backyard” Farther up the road, right off U.S. to prove it. He’s often featured as the offer stunning views of the adobe desHighway 50, is Carl Wood, the owner headliner for horsemanship clinics, ert landscape. and trainer at Doubletree Horse Farm. which people attend for learning and Wood, too, produces his own clinIt’s located in Delta, about an hour personal growth. ics and horse shows throughout the and a half from Telluride. A profesWood takes horses in for training year. He’s also the man to see for >>> adventure | SUMMER2018

Top left: Kids participate in a youth horsemanship camp at Old Sawmill Ranch in Norwood, a partnership between Pam Brownlie and the Telluride Academy. Brownlie specializes in working with kids, natural horsemanship, and now, trauma therapy with equines. (Photo by Regan Tuttle) Bottom left: Carl Wood, professional horseman of Doubletree Horse Farm in Delta, competes in a cattle class. He works as a clinician and produces some horse shows locally. (Courtesy photo)

those interested in buying a horse of their own.

Highway 141 and turning off onto the gallop and if you’re lucky, you’ll catch 19Q into Spring Creek Preserve, man- a glimpse of a few foals at their mothaged through a private partnership ers’ sides in the spring and summer SPRING CREEK PRESERVE with the Bureau of Land Management. season. Don’t expect to get nuzzled, For those that desire a different Take a lunch, or at least snacks and though. The wild ones are, well, wild. type of horse adventure altogether, water, as there are not many services there’s the local sanctuary. On the out that way. You’ll also want a camSAN MIGUEL BASIN RODEO west side of San Miguel County sits a era, and binoculars, if you have them. There’s also the big show in Norpreserve of real-life wild horses: musYou can drive through Spring wood — the annual San Miguel Batangs. That’s right. For those who’ve Creek, or park on one of the roads sin Rodeo — the weekend of July never seen a wild one, it’s worth driv- and walk a ways. You’ll see different 28. The event showcases the spirit of ing past Norwood, turning left on color breeds, wild stallions at a full the area’s authentic Western heritage. 42

adventure | SUMMER2018

Adult participants in one of Jody Nixon’s self-discovery workshops perform a “bridge” exercise with a horse. Nixon gives horsemanship lessons in Montrose too. (Courtesy photo)

Spectators will see rodeo royalty on cal beef (Norwood School’s football ly trail ride should meet Norwood’s their mounts, along with ropers and team often grills burgers). Roudy Roudebush. He’s a local legthe barrel racers. Don’t miss Mustang Maddy (Madi- end who’s taken city slickers riding The local rodeo brings together son Shambaugh) at the rodeo this for more than 40 years. folks of diverse backgrounds, all year. The young horse trainer lives Another option for simple day-trips there to applaud the wonders of locally, but has become a celebrity in is Circle K ranch near Dolores, which Western horsemanship. the greater horse world. She’ll appear is prime equestrian country. It’s a fun and laid-back way to ap- at this year’s rodeo to demonstrate If you have access to your own preciate horses and what they can her work with mustangs. rig and horses, lucky you! Head do, and spectators can put on a pair straight to the trail riding solitude of of cowboy boots and have a meal. TRAIL RIDE, ANYONE? Lone Cone or Disappointment Valley, There’s no shortage of cold beer or loThose looking simply for a leisure- which are open and uncrowded. adventure | SUMMER2018 43

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ACTIVITY

GUIDE Y O U R G O - TO SOU R CE F OR FUN IN T H E S A N J U AN MOU NTAI NS

(Photos by Shredded Elements Photography)

museums ANASAZI HERITAGE CENTER, DOLORES

27501 State Highway 184, Dolores 970-882-5600 blm.gov/co/st/en/fo/ahc.html

THE ANIMAS MUSEUM, DURANGO

3065 W. 2nd Ave. (Corner of 31st Street) 970-259-2402 animasmuseum.org

CANYON OF THE ANCIENTS NATIONAL MONUMENT, CORTEZ Visit Anasazi Heritage Center First (27501 State Highway 184, Dolores) 970-882-5600 blm.gov/co/st/en/nm/canm.html

CORTEZ CULTURAL CENTER 25 N. Market St. 970-565-1151 cortezculturalcenter.org

CRESTED BUTTE MOUNTAIN HERITAGE MUSEUM 331 Elk Ave. 970-349-1880 crestedbuttemuseum.com

CROSS ORCHARDS HISTORIC SITE, GRAND JUNCTION

3079 F Road 970-434-9814 museumofwesternco.com/crossorchards/

CROW CANYON ARCHAEOLOGICAL CENTER, CORTEZ 23390 Road K 970-565-8975 crowcanyon.org

DELTA COUNTY HISTORICAL MUSEUM, DELTA 251 Meeker St. 970-874-8721 www.swcoloradoheritage.com/ heritage-attractions/delta-countymuseum

DINOSAUR JOURNEY MUSEUM, FRUITA

550 Jurassic Court 970-858-7282 https://museumofwesternco.com/ dinosaur-journey/

DURANGO AND SILVERTON NARROW GAUGE RAILROAD MUSEUMS, DURANGO/SILVERTON Durango Depot, 479 Main Ave./ Silverton Depot, 10th and Cement Street 970-247-2733 durangotrain.com

FORT UNCOMPAHGRE, DELTA 440 N. Palmer St. 970-847-8349 fortuncompahgre.org

GATEWAY AUTO MUSEUM, GATEWAY 43224 State Highway 141 970-931-2895 gatewayautomuseum.com

HOTCHKISS-CRAWFORD HISTORICAL MUSEUM, HOTCHKISS 180 S. 2nd St. 970-872-3780 hchm.freehostia.com

HOVENWEEP NATIONAL MONUMENT, CORTEZ County Road G/McElmo Canyon Road 970-562-4282 ext. 5 nps.gov/hove/index.htm

MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK, CORTEZ NO. 1 NAVAJO HILL VIA U.S. 34879 Highway160 800-449-2288 visitmesaverde.com

MONTROSE BOTANIC GARDENS, MONTROSE 1800 Pavilion Drive montrosegardens.org

MONTROSE COUNTY HISTORICAL MUSEUM 21 N. Rio Grande Ave. 970-249-2085 montrosehistory.org

GALLOPING GOOSE, HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF DOLORES INC. 420 Central Ave. gallopinggoose5.org

MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN WEST, MONTROSE

SAN JUAN COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY MUSEUM, SILVERTON

MUSEUM OF THE WEST, GRAND JUNCTION

SOUTHERN UTE CULTURAL CENTER & MUSEUM, IGNACIO

OLD 100 GOLD MINE, SILVERTON

TELLURIDE HISTORICAL MUSEUM

OURAY COUNTY RANCH HISTORICAL MUSEUM, RIDGEWAY

UTE INDIAN MUSEUM, MONTROSE

OURAY COUNTY HISTORICAL MUSEUM

WESTERN COLORADO CENTER FOR THE ARTS, GRAND JUNCTION

68169 E. Miami Rd. and U.S. Highway 50 970-240-3400 museumofthemountainwest.org

462 Ute Ave. 970-242-0971 museumofwesternco.com/museumof-the-west/

721 County Road 4A 970-387-5444 minetour.com

321 Sherman St. 970-318-1190 ocrhm.org

420 6th Ave. 970-325-4576 ouraycountyhistoricalsociety.org

PIONEER MUSEUM, GUNNISON

803 E. Tomichi Ave. 970-641-4530 gunnisonpioneermuseum.com

POWERHOUSE SCIENCE CENTER, DURANGO

1557 Greene St. 970-387-5838 sanjuanhistoricalsociety.org

503 Ouray Drive 970-563-9583 southernute-nsn.gov/southern-utemuseum

201 W. Gregory Ave., top of Fir Street 970-728-3344 telluridemuseum.org

17253 Chipeta Road 970-249-3098 historycolorado.org/museums

1803 N. 7th St. 970-243-7337 gjartcenter.org

WESTERN COLORADO BOTANICAL GARDENS, GRAND JUNCTION

641 Struthers Ave. 970-245-9030 westerncoloradobotanicalgardens.org

1333 Camino del Rio 970-259-9234 powsci.org

RIDGWAY RAILROAD MUSEUM, RIDGWAY

Junction of U.S. Highway 550 and State Highway 62 ridgwayrailroadmuseum.org adventure | SUMMER2018

hiking

(Photo by Kamila Skrzypczak)

TELLURIDE JUD WIEBE

Distance: 2.5 miles Time: 2 hours, round trip Elevation Gain: 1,200 feet Difficulty: Moderate This may be the most popular Telluride locals’ hike, thanks to its easy access from town. The trail starts at the top of Aspen Street and loops back to Tomboy Road, at the top of Oak Street (or vice versa). At the north end of Aspen Street, pass the trailhead and cross the footbridge on your left (go straight to reach Cornet Falls, about 1/4 mile). Follow the main trail as it climbs steeply from town. Switchbacks eventually top out above the redrock cliffs, offering outstanding views of the entire valley. The trail continues through aspen and spruce forests, crossing a small stream, before reaching Liberty Bell Road. Take a right here to head back to town (left heads up into Liberty Bell Basin, a strenuous ascent), following switchbacks that lead down to Tomboy Road. If you start from the north end of Oak Street, take a right on Tomboy 48

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Road, then a left at the gated barricade. Once you crest the top of Liberty Bell Road, look for the trail on the left-hand side.

amazing. Return along the same trail, taking in views of Trout Lake below and the Wilson Range in the distance.

LAKE HOPE

GRAND JUNCTION

Distance: 5.4 miles round trip Time: 3 hours, round trip Elevation Gain: 1,900 feet Difficulty: Moderate If it’s a lake hike you’re after, Lake Hope is a classic. This unforgettable alpine destination hike is well worth the effort required to reach the sapphire blue waters of Lake Hope, 11,670 feet above sea level. On State Highway 145, head toward Cortez and Lizard Head Pass until you get to Trout Lake. Take a left on Trout Lake Road, following the unimproved dirt road for 2.3 miles to the trailhead on Road 626, turning left at the Y on 627 as the road begins its upward switchbacks. Start hiking at the Forest Service trail marker 410; the trail will gradually wind its way up through a large spruce forest, eventually climbing above tree line, crossing a few small streams along the way. The views of brightly colored 13,000-foot peaks are

GRAND MESA AND CRAG CREST TRAIL

Distance: 10 miles from Eggleston Lake, 11 miles from Island Lake Time: 6-7 hours, round trip Elevation Gain: 954 feet Difficulty: Moderate Crag Crest is located on Grand Mesa, and is a fairly easy walk through a forest to a ridge with some of the best vistas in the state. The “crest” of Crag Crest Trail becomes a knife-edge ridge for quite some time along the top (11,189 feet), with precipitous drop-offs on both sides. There are 360-degree views not only directly below to the mesa’s many lakes, but out to the La Sals, the Elk Mountains, the nearby Bookcliffs and the San Juans. Because the walk is mostly along a ridge, it is best to begin early in the day; there’s no place to hide in an afternoon thunderstorm. June-August can be

very buggy; don’t forget mosquito repellent. September is generally mosquito-free. The walk is a loop: Start from either the Island Lake or the Eggleston Lake trailhead. To access the trail, take State Highway 65 off I-70 (if you are coming from Grand Junction). Island Lake is 8 miles beyond Mesa Lakes Resort. Eggleston Lake is just down the road past Island Lake. Continue on 65, and turn left on FR 121. After 2.5 miles, make another left turn.

R I D G W AY COURTHOUSE MOUNTAIN

Distance: 3 miles Time: 3 hours, round trip Elevation Gain: 1,800 feet Difficulty: Moderate (short and steep) Situated north of Ridgway, Courthouse Mountain is a jagged and craggy summit in the Cimarron Range. Topping out at 12,152 feet, the trail up Courthouse is short and steep, but offers striking views of the Cimarron Valley and the tower of Chimney Rock. To get to the remote trailhead, from Ridgway go north on U.S. Highway 550 and take

a right on County Road 10 (Owl Creek Pass); a large green sign will direct you to the well-maintained road. Follow this road through the maze of ranch roads that crisscross the beautiful landscape beneath Courthouse Mountain, and continue over Owl Creek Pass. Just over the pass, take the first right turn and follow the road up the Little Cimarron drainage for 1.3 miles. The trailhead and modest sign for Courthouse Trail is in a cluster of trees on the right. (Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t blink or you will miss it.) Park well off the road. The single-track trail is quite steep, but well worth it. It winds up through the trees and along ridgelines. Closer to the top, some rock scrambling is involved to get to the summit. Return the way you came.

S I LV E R T O N ICE LAKES BASIN

Distance: 7.5 miles Time: 6 hours, round trip Elevation Gain: 2,900 feet Difficulty: Moderate This hike begins just outside of Silverton and is well worth the drive. A couple miles north of town, turn left and head up County Road 7 (the South Mineral Creek Road) for 3.83 miles, with the slopes of Bear Mountain and Beattie Peak looming in your windshield and resembling Scotlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Benn Eigh National Nature Reserve on a massive scale. The trailhead is directly across from the busy Mineral Creek Campground. The trail starts at 9,700 feet. If you go all the way to

Fuller Lake (recommended) you will top out at 12,600 feet. Ice Lake is 2.7 miles, and Fuller Lake is 3.5 miles. The hike takes you not only to a lush alpine lake basin, but leaves you standing beneath the classic spike of Goldenhorn, one of the four major peaks that surround the basin, along with Vermillion, Fuller and U.S. Grant. A TripAdvisor reviewer rates this hike as excellent (some have referred to it as Valhalla) and offers photos as well as useful points for getting there.

MONTROSE MESA CREEK TRAIL, CURECANTI NATIONAL RECREATION AREA

Distance: 1.5 miles, round trip

Time: 1 hour, round trip Elevation gain: Minimal Difficulty: Easy to moderately strenuous This is a great, short, scenic trip into the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. From Cimarron on U.S. Highway 50, turn north at the Cimarron Visitor Center with its exhibits of Rio Grande Narrow Gauge Railroad cars and a preserved trestle. Drive a mile and park overlooking the Morrow Point Dam. The trail leads below the dam to a footbridge over the river (technically Crystal Lake) to the north side. The trail follows the river downstream with spectacular views of the narrow canyon walls. A picnic area marks the turnaround, and a nice place to put your feet in the water.

(Photo by Melissa Plantz)

climbing RIDGWAY AND OURAY ROADSIDE DISTRACTION

For families and beginners, Roadside Distraction is a great place to climb. Perched right above the first hairpin on County Road 361, Roadside has a bunch of fun routes from 5.4 to 5.11. At the first hairpin turn on the Camp Bird Road, park alongside the ATV trailers and follow the obvious steep track along the fence. When you reach a large rock with a telephone pole on top, look for an easy trail on the right side that accesses the anchors on top of the climbs. Take care accessing the bolted anchors as they are just below the lip of the crag; an extra rope to protect yourself can be quite handy. The southwest-facing slab has a few different easy climbs, while climbs on the northwest face are steep and difficult.

POOL WALL ALCOVE

Another great spot for moderate climbing is the Pool Wall Alcove. Directly across from the Ouray Hot Springs Pool, look for a trail that leads into a hidden alcove on the left side of the wall. Nestled in this spot there are about six high-quality routes, ranging from 5.6 to 5.9. All climbs are bolted sport climbs and accessible only by leading up. Above the main Pool Wall and to the right, there are dozens of 5.10 and above routes.

ROTARY PARK CRAG

A quick 30-second walk from the parking lot at Ouray Rotary Park, Rotary Park Crag is a great area for easy and hard climbs. All climbs must be led to set up, and the rock quality isn’t as good as some other areas; but it’s close to the car and non-climbers can picnic and watch. There are about five good routes rated less than 5.9.

TELLURIDE AND OPHIR OPHIR WALL AND CRACKED CANYON

Those seeking traditional climbing will enjoy the old-school ambiance of the Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon. Both are located 8 miles south of Telluride at the entrance to the Ophir Valley.

(Photo by Whit Richardson) 50

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FALLS WALLS AND PIPELINE WALL

If you are a sport climber, head to the Falls Walls and Pipeline Wall at the end of the Telluride Valley. You may also want to hike to the Sesame Street area in upper Bear Creek.

ILIUM VALLEY

Five miles west of Telluride, Ilium Valley has an array of boulders of varying difficulty.

EAST END OF TELLURIDE VALLEY

There is excellent bouldering at the mine in the east end of the Telluride valley.

ALPINE ROUTES

There are a number of alpine rock routes on the peaks surrounding Telluride. Lizard Head, the prominent volcanic plug that marks Lizard Head Pass, is the most well known.

NATURITA ATOMIC ENERGY CRAG

Fine Dakota Sandstone and a good selection of routes, many of which are bolted. There are also a few traditional and mixed climbs. The crag sits high on Sawtooth Ridge. From the summit, there are good views of the San Juans and the La Sal Mountains in Utah. To access AEC from Telluride, take State Highway 145 west toward Norwood and continue on to Naturita. Just past Naturita, turn left on State Highway 90 and follow it about eight miles up the road to EE22 Road. Make a right onto EE22, and stay on it until you spot a prominent buttress on the hill (there are many parking spots at the base). The climbing routes are a 10- to 15-minute hike up a series of switchbacks to the cliff.

NORWOOD CLAY CREEK

Good climbing close to Telluride, in a pinon and juniper forest, with relatively easy access. The routes are 30- to 60-feet long, of sandstone. Most are bolted; many have anchors. At the bottom of the Norwood Hill, take Forest Service Road 510 (the Sanborn Park Road) 4.2 miles. Park at a prominent pullout on the left; a good trail leads to the crag. The first section of cliffs appears in 10 minutes. For much more beta on this area, the first, and arguably the best, guide is “The Wild Wild West: Rock Climbing in the Wild West End of Southwestern Colorado” by the late, legendary Charlie Fowler and his co-author, Damon Johnston.

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Fowler and Johnston also wrote “Telluride Rocks,” the only detailed guide to rock climbing near town, with particulars on the Ophir Wall, Cracked Canyon, Telluride Edge and other choice climbing sites.

MONTROSE BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON NATIONAL PARK

The vertical walls of the Black Canyon hold dozens of traditional big-wall climbs, all of them advanced, multi-pitched climbs with difficulty ratings from 5.8 to 5.13. Some require aid. These are serious climbs. The NPS website warns: “Being benighted due to underestimating a route is not cause for a rescue at the Black Canyon.” The North and South Chasm Walls

see the majority of climbing. The depth here is around 1,800 feet, and the canyon is at its narrowest, just 1,100 feet across from rim to rim. The most complete guidebook is “Black Canyon Climbs” by Robbie Williams. A free permit is required and can be obtained at either the South Rim Visitor Center or the North Rim Ranger Station.

GRAND JUNCTION OTTO’S ROUTE

Otto’s Route is found on the northwest face of a 450-foot high sandstone tower known as Independence Monument, located in Colorado National Monument, near Grand Junction. The climb is named after John Otto, the Colorado National Monument’s

first superintendent, and the route’s first ascender in 1911, when he created a hand-pounded pipe ladder all the way to the summit, where he placed an American flag. It’s a classic multi-pitch route for advanced lead-climbers, who know how to place gear, route find and set up rappels. The route is varied on mostly solid rock, and the views of the surrounding red rock are spectacular. Rated 5.9, the climb ascends 450 feet in four pitches. Monument Canyon Trail serves as the approach trail, which begins on the south end of the west entrance parking lot. Expect crowds on weekends. Double ropes are suggested for a quick rappel, as are helmets, in case of rock fall.

CASTLE VALLEY (UTAH) CASTLETON TOWER

The Wingate Sandstone Castleton tower is perhaps the most popular desert spire climb in the Canyonlands region, with its KorIngalls Route considered one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. There are routes on its north, west and south faces, offering both free and fixed climbs rated 5.9 to 5.11. From Moab, drive 10 miles down Route 128 along the Colorado River. Turn right on Castleton Road and drive 4.7 miles to a dirt road parking area on the left. Follow the signs and obvious trails to the different routes.

(Photo by Whit Richardson) 52

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rafting (Photo courtesy of Telluride Outside) ANIMAS RIVER

COLORADO RIVER

Section: Upper Trip Length: 26 miles Season: May-July Difficulty: Class III, IV, V The Animas River is located high in the snowcapped San Juan Mountains between Silverton and Durango. Its southward course begins at Mineral Creek just outside of the historic mining town of Silverton and parallels the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. The river drops, on average, 85 feet per mile as it courses through dozens of Class III and IV rapids, and numerous Class V rapids. The upper Animas River is an exceptional alpine rafting experience with outstanding whitewater, and scenery that includes abandoned cabins and spectacular views of the 13,000-foot-plus peaks. The river trip ends near the small town of Rockwood.

Section: Ruby/Horsethief Canyon Trip Length: 25 miles Season: May-September Difficulty: Class I, II The Ruby-Horsethief section of the Colorado River, from Loma, Colorado, to Westwater, Utah, is a 25-mile stretch of mostly flatwater with sections of Class I and II. This section of the Colorado runs through beautiful red rock canyons, and has many day hike opportunities offering both solitude and exploration. The Black Rock section is composed of rock known as Vishnu schist, which dates back about 1.7 billion years. This same rock, which geologists refer to as “an unconformity,” is exposed in certain sections of the Grand Canyon. There is an abundance of wildlife, including great blue herons, bald eagles, peregrine falcons, mule deer and desert bighorn sheep. Look up in old cottonwoods trees and you are likely to spot nests and eagles. Spring weather can be extremely variable, with hot days followed by snow, followed by high winds, followed by cold rain. Summer days can be very hot and buggy, and there is little shade along the river. Rainstorms are usually short but somewhat violent. Summer nights are usually comfortable. Fall is the most consistent weather with warm days, cool nights and infrequent rain.

COLORADO RIVER Section: Cataract Canyon Trip Length: 96 miles or less Season: April-October Difficulty: Class III, IV, V Cataract Canyon, in spectacular Canyonlands National Park, offers a yin-yang combination of relaxed floating and exciting whitewater. The put-in is a few miles downstream from Moab. The first two or three days of the Cataract trip provide ample leisure time to enjoy the many cliff dwellings and petroglyphs from the ancient Anasazi Indian culture, with opportunities to hike, swim, fish and shoot photos as well. The whitewater begins 4 miles downstream from the confluence of the Green and Colorado rivers, deep within Canyonlands National Park. From here, 26 major Class IV and V rapids, with names like Little Niagara and Satan’s Gut, give rafters a wild ride before reaching the quiet waters of Lake Powell, above Glen Canyon Dam. In the spring, some Cataract rapids are larger than those in the Grand Canyon.

COLORADO RIVER Section: Westwater Trip Length: 17-40 miles Season: May-September Difficulty: Class III, IV (V in high water) Westwater is a classic short river trip, where rafters are treated to spectacular sandstone and granite canyon walls, side canyon exploration opportunities and sandy beaches. Westwater Canyon is located midway between Grand Junction and Moab. Two-day trips with overnight camping are the most common, but the Bureau of Land

Management does issue permits for a 17-mile, one-day trip to a limited number of outfitters. Eleven Class III and IV rapids on the route include Funnel Falls, The Steps, Last Chance and Skull in the narrow Black Granite Gorge. Watch out for the Room of Doom!

GREEN RIVER Section: Desolation Canyon Trip Length: 84 miles Season: April-October Difficulty: Class I, II, III The Green River runs through northeast Utah from Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area near Vernal to Dinosaur National Monument, and on through rugged and remote landscape before joining with the Colorado River at Canyonlands National Park in southeastern Utah. The Desolation Canyon section is deeper than the Grand Canyon, and offers big sandy beaches, sparkling side streams, shady stands of cottonwoods and abundant wildlife. The rapids never exceed a Class III in this section and are suitable for a family trip.

GUNNISON RIVER Section: Gunnison Gorge Trip Length: 14 miles Season: April-October Difficulty: Class I, II, III, IV The Gunnison River, in the Gunnison Gorge, offers a technical and remote whitewater experience for rafters, kayakers and canoeists. The trip can vary widely, depending on time of year and flow from dam releases and winter snowpack. Expect high releases of 2,000 to 10,000 cfs in late May and early June. Summer flows, according to the Bureau of Land Management, can range from 300 cfs in low water years to 2,000-plus cfs during big water years. At flows below 800 cfs, the Gorge is highly technical and is not recommended for rafts over 12 feet in length. The geology, wildlife and remote feel of this 1-3 day river trip is one of the best in the state.

SAN MIGUEL RIVER Section: Placerville to Naturita Power Plant Trip Length: 7 and 14 miles Season: May-July Difficulty: Class II, III The San Miguel River, a major tributary of the Dolores River, starts high in the San Juan Mountains above Telluride. It flows northwest, without any major falls or rapids until the Dolores, winding its way through red rock cliffs and alpine terrain. This trip is perfect for families and is convenient to Telluride, with a put-in just below Placerville (and another one closer to Norwood). The river carves through a spectacular canyon and the consistent flow of Class II and III rapids is entertaining and easy. The 14mile trip continues through the wilderness of Norwood Canyon. Wildlife along the San Miguel is plentiful.

UNCOMPAHGRE RIVER Section: Ridgway Town Run Trip Length: 3 miles Season: May-July Difficulty: Class II, III The Uncompahgre River flows down from the northwest San Juans, an area heavily impacted by mining, which helps give the river its greenish hue. The Unc flows through Ouray and Ridgway before joining the Gunnison River at the town of Delta. The Ridgway Town Run is a short but sweet rock-hopping adventure through some nice parklands as well as some private land. Put in at Rollins Park in downtown Ridgway. Be aware that the kayak park can form dangerous keeper holes at the right water levels. Beginner kayakers will want to put in below these features most of the time. Take out on the right at the County Road 24 bridge, or paddle out to the reservoir.

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adventure | SUMMER2018

LAST DOLLAR ROAD: TELLURIDE TO DALLAS DIVIDE

Time: Half-day Distance: 7.5 miles Difficulty: Easy; high clearance Elevation: 10,400 feet This is a beautiful drive with great views all around. Drive 3 miles west of Telluride, turn right on the airport road and drive 2 miles to the dirt road (Last Dollar Road) that forks north just before the airport. Follow this winding road through aspen stands and rolling terrain. Jeepers can turn left at Road 58P to descend down to Sawpit, west of Telluride, or continue on to State Highway 62 at Dallas Divide, where an inspiring panorama of mountain peaks awaits on the way to Ridgway, Ouray or Montrose.

ALTA LAKES: STATE HIGHWAY 145 TO ALTA AND ALTA LAKES

Time: 1-1/2 hours Distance: 5 miles Difficulty: Easy; high clearance 4WD Elevation: 11,000 feet The ghost town of Alta, established in the mining boom of the 1870s, is on the National Register of Historic Places. Surrounded by Alta Lakes, the setting is picture-perfect. Drive 6 miles south of Telluride on State Highway 145. Turn left onto Alta Lakes Road and stay on this main road for 4 miles to the town of Alta, an elevation gain of 1,700 feet. To reach the lakes and Gold King Basin, turn right at the town and follow the signs to Alta Lakes.

YANKEE BOY BASIN: U.S. HIGHWAY 550 TO YANKEE BOY

Time: 2 hours Distance: 4.2 miles Difficulty: Easy to moderate; high clearance 4WD Elevation: 12,200 feet Take U.S. Highway 550 south out of Ouray for 1/4 mile to Canyon Creek Road and turn right. Continue past Camp Bird Mine, keeping right on the main road. A quarter mile from the intersection, the road makes a sharp right turn and runs along a ledge, widened by blasting. A cliff overhangs the road for a few hundred feet and only one vehicle can pass in one direction at a time through this section. Check the road ahead before starting. The road improves after the old Sneffels town site. Two miles from

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(Photo |bySUMMER Charlotte Mainier) adventure 2018 55

(Photo courtesy of Colorado 145)

here, turn right at a fork in the road to head into Yankee Boy (going left leads to Governor Basin). The road gets rockier and rougher, and after about 1 1/4 miles, it climbs into an open basin. Beyond the basin the road continues about 3/4 mile to Gilpin Lake. The road to Yankee Boy is in good condition, but heavily traveled during the summer.

ENGINEER PASS: OURAY TO LAKE CITY

Time: Half-day Distance: 28 miles Difficulty: Moderate to difficult; high clearance 4WD Elevation: 12,805 feet From Ouray, drive south on U.S. Highway 550 for 3.7 miles. Look for the road on the left-hand side of the highway near a cascading waterfall and overlook. The road is well marked from here. It is rough right from the start, climbing along switchbacks through several mining sites to above tree line. Watch for “Oh Point,” located just past the intersection that leads to Cinnamon Pass to the right. Stay left to reach Engineer Pass. Good camping and fishing sites are abundant along the way, particularly once you pass Rose’s Cabin and the Empire Mine

adventure | SUMMER2018

structure, about 14 miles into the trip. The road eventually comes out at Lake City.

IMOGENE PASS: TELLURIDE TO OURAY

Time: 2-3 hours Distance: 18 miles (7 miles from Telluride to Imogene Pass) Difficulty: Moderate to difficult; high clearance 4WD Elevation: 13,114 feet From Telluride, start at the north end of Oak Street and turn right onto Tomboy Road. The dirt road climbs up and away from Telluride, with stunning views of town and the east end of the canyon, including Bridal Veil Falls. The road passes several waterfalls and goes through a small tunnel on its way to the historic mining town of Tomboy in Savage Basin, a 2,650-foot elevation gain. Make your way up the steep ascent over loose rock to Imogene Pass at 13,114 feet. Located here is Fort Peabody, constructed in 1904 by a local unit of the Colorado National Guard to prevent union miners from crossing during a labor strike. From the pass, it’s a steep downhill ride to Ouray, passing Yankee Boy Basin and Camp Bird. With no stops, expect this trip to take at least 2 hours. Stopping to

take in the expansive views and exploration possibilities along the way will extend this trip to the better part of the day.

BLACK BEAR PASS: RED MOUNTAIN PASS IN OURAY/ SILVERTON TO TELLURIDE

Time: 2-3 hours Distance: 12 miles Difficulty: Difficult – expert only; high clearance 4WD Elevation: 12,840 feet Black Bear Pass, usually open around the end of July, is a oneway jeep ride from Red Mountain Pass to Telluride. This pass is for expert drivers only. From Ouray, drive 13 miles south on U.S. Highway 550, just past the summit of Red Mountain Pass. Turn right onto the well-marked trail. The road climbs steeply with many narrow, rocky places above tree line. It eventually flattens out in a high valley with lots of mining relics, but don’t be lulled into a false sense of security. An area called “The Steps” begins right after reaching the small stream, with the town of Telluride visible in the valley below. This is the point of no return. Past here, turning around is simply not an option. The road drops steeply along extremely tight switchbacks on the breathtaking descent into

the valley, passing the 125-foot Ingram Falls. The road becomes easier at the two-way intersection at the top of Bridal Veil Falls, leading down to Telluride.

CLEAR LAKE (SILVERTON)

Time: Half-day Distance: 16.5 miles Difficulty: Moderate; high clearance 4WD Elevation: 11,850 feet On the way up to Clear Lake, there are outstanding views into Ice Lakes Basin (the name of the huge, spiky peak in front of you as you drive is Golden Horn). Take U.S. Highway 550 2 miles north out of Silverton and turn west, or left, onto South Mineral Road. From there, it is 3.8 miles to the Clear Lake junction. Turn right, and begin climbing steeply up the Clear Lake Road. You’re 9,750 feet high at this point; you’ll switchback your way up 4.5 miles to Clear Lake, at 11,850 feet. Clear Lake lies directly below South Lookout Peak (13,357 feet). Be sure to bring your lawn chair and leave some time to hang out by the lake or take a stroll around it. If you’re a car camper, you’ll pass a couple of good sites to spend the night on the way up.

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TELLURIDE AREA MATTERHORN Well-maintained, often busy campground located between Ophir turnoff and Trout Lake (near San Bernardo). Fees required Location: 7 miles south of Telluride on State Highway 145 Facilities: 28 Sites, 3 walk-in sites, 4 RV hookup sites, water, showers, toilets Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970249-4552

CAYTON CAMPGROUND Popular, busy campground with access to fishing, and the Colorado Trail. Located on the stunning San Juan Skyway with electric hookup sites available. Fees required Location: 22 miles south of Telluride on State Highway 145, near the intersection of State Highway 145 and Barlow Creek Road. Facilities: 27 campsites, 3 picnic sites along river. 16 reservable sites, 11 reservable sites with electricity. 11 non-reservable sites, 5 non-reservable sites with electricity. Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970247-4874

PRIEST LAKE Quiet, pristine sites bordering small lake. No fees required Location: 8 miles south of Telluride on State Highway 145; turn left at entrance to Trout Lake. Priest Lake Road is on the left. Facilities: Undesignated sites, vault toilet Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970249-4552

SUNSHINE Spectacular views of the Wilson Range, easy access to Telluride and Mountain Village. Full during Telluride festival weekends and holidays. Fees required Location: 7 miles south of Telluride on State Highway 145 Facilities: 15 sites, water, toilets Contact: 575-257-4095

ALTA LAKES These primitive sites border a high alpine lake popular for trout fishing. Stunning views; 11,000 foot elevation. No fees required Location: 13 miles southeast of Telluride on State Highway 145; turn left at Alta Lakes Road, 4x4 required from highway to campground. Facilities: 16 undesignated sites, one pit toilet Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970874-6600

(Photo by Whit Richardson) 58

adventure | SUMMER2018

DOWNVALLEY/NORWOOD WOODS LAKE Great family campground, close to fishing at Woods Lake and many hiking trails. Fees required Location: 21 miles southwest of Telluride, up Fall Creek Road Facilities: 41 designated sites, toilets, fire rings Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970874-6600

MIRAMONTE RESERVOIR Scenic, lakeside sites on this popular, 420-acre reservoir. No fees required Location: 40 miles northwest of Telluride, 18.5 miles southeast of Norwood, up Lone Cone Road Facilities: Picnic sites, boat ramp, pit toilets, water Contact: Colorado Parks and Wildlife, 970-252-6000

RIDGWAY/OURAY RIDGWAY RESERVOIR Large campground with many site options. Access to large beach and kids playground. Fees required Location: 5 miles north of Ridgway on U.S. Highway 550 Facilities: 268 sites, hookups, showers, restrooms, dump station, laundry, marina Contact: Colorado Parks and Wildlife, 970-626-5822

WEBER WESTRIDGE RV PARK & CAMPGROUND RV park and campground, available for long-term and overnight, located between the towns of Ouray and Ridgway. Cabin also available. Fees required Location: Between Ridgway and Ouray at 20725 U.S. Highway 550 Facilities: 11 sites, barbecue grills, full hookups, guest laundry, pullthroughs, tent sites, restrooms Contact: 970-400-7275

KOA CAMPGROUND Camp in comfort in the heart of Ouray County in your RV, a tent or a cabin. Catch live music and Texas mesquite smoked barbecue. There’s wifi, a playground and a hot tub as well. Fees required Location: 3.5 miles north of Ouray at mile-marker 98 on U.S. Highway 550 Facilities: RV sites, tent sites, cabins, pavilion Contact: koa.com/campgrounds/ ouray, 970-325-4736

MONTROSE SOUTH RIM, BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON NATIONAL PARK Large campground with sparse vegetation and incredible views; limited hiking and fishing. Fees required Location: 6 miles east of Montrose on U.S. Highway 50. Follow signs to park entrance Facilities: 88 sites, fire rings, picnic tables, vault toilets, water Contact: National Park Service, 970641-2337 ext. 205

SILVER JACK RESERVOIR Large, scenic campground set below Cimarron Ridge, located adjacent to lake, offering hiking, fishing and nonmotorized boating. Fees required Location: 20 miles east of Montrose on U.S. Highway 50, turn south on Cimarron Road, approx. 22 miles to campground Facilities: 80 sites, picnic tables, fire grates, vault toilets, water. 30-foot max vehicle size limit Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970874-6600

IRON SPRINGS CAMPGROUND, UNCOMPAHGRE PLATEAU Small, primitive but accessible campground in mixed aspens and evergreen forest at 9,500 feet on the east edge of the plateau. Not far from trails into Rubideau Canyon Wilderness Study Area. No fees required Location: West of Montrose 19.5 miles up State Highway 90 from the point where W. Oak Grove Road turns to gravel. Facilities: 8 campsites, refurbished by volunteers with the Uncompahgre Project. Toilets; no water Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970874-6600

GRAND JUNCTION/FRUITA SADDLEHORN CAMPGROUND, COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT Situated on a high bluff overlooking the cities of Fruita and Redlands, with several nearby trailheads. Fees required Location: Near the Saddlehorn Visitor Center, 4 miles from the west entrance of the Colorado National Monument (near Fruita); open year-round Facilities: 80 sites, some pull-through. Flush toilets, water, charcoal only grill. Contact: National Park Service, 970858-3617 ext. 360

NORTH FRUITA DESERT In the heart of Fruita’s world-renowned mountain biking, including the Kokopelli Trail system. No fees required Location: On 18 road approximately 12 miles north of Fruita in the heart of the single-track mountain bike trail system. Facilities: 58 sites, picnic tables, fire grates, vault toilets Contact: BLM Grand Junction field Office, 970-244-3000

BOOKCLIFF CAMPGROUND, HIGHLINE LAKE STATE PARK Connected to miles of trails, this campground boasts mature trees and grassy campsites. Fees required Location: Drive west on I-70 from Grand Junction to the Loma exit, then north onto State Highway 139 for 6 miles to Q Road. Go west on Q Road for 1.2 miles, then turn north onto 11.8 Road for one mile for park entrance. Facilities: 36 sites, accommodating tents or RVs. Water, fire pits, dumpstation, coin operated hot showers, laundry Contact: Colorado Parks and Wildlife, 970-858-7208

JAMES M. ROBB COLORADO RIVER STATE PARK, FRUITA SECTION Good for RVs, this campground also has a swim beach and playground, with access to fishing on the Colorado River. Walking distance to the Dinosaur Journey Museum. Fees required Location: In the city of Fruita, ½ mile south of exit 19, off of I-70 Facilities: 63 sites, including 22 full hookups, 22 electric sites, 13 tent sites and a group camping area. Visitor Center, bookstore, laundry, charcoal grills, flush toilets Contact: Colorado Parks and Wildlife, 970-858-9188

MANCOS/MESA VERDE/ DURANGO MCPHEE RESERVOIR Located on the southern shore of the McPhee Reservoir, McPhee Campground is nestled among pinyon, scrub oak and juniper; many sites have lake views. Fees required Location: From Dolores, take State Highway 145 west 1.5 miles to McPhee Reservoir sign (State Highway 184). Turn right onto Highway 184 and go 4.2 miles to another McPhee Reservoir sign (Road 25). Turn right onto Road 25 and go .3 miles to campground sign (Forest Rt. 271). Turn right onto Rt.

271 and go to miles to campground symbol sign (across from waste station). Facilities: 95 sites, picnic tables, grills, flush toilets, hot showers, dump station and some electric hookups Contact: U.S. Department of Recreation, 970-882-7296

MANCOS STATE PARK Small campground nestled in a Ponderosa pine forest, on the shores of Jackson Gulch Reservoir. Various trails connect the two campgrounds and surround the lake. Fees required Location: From Mancos, turn north onto State Highway 184 for ¼ mile, take County Road 42 east approximately 4 miles to County Road N. Take N west ½ mile to the park entrance. Facilities: 32 sites in two campgrounds, vault toilets, water, fire-pits, picnic tables, dump station. Two yurts also available, $70/night, reservation required Contact: Colorado State Parks, 970533-7065

MOREFIELD CAMPGROUND, MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK Large campground located within the boundaries of Mesa Verde National Park. Fees required Location: 30 miles east of Cortez on U.S. Highway 160 Facilities: 267 sites, including 15 full hookup RV sites (reservations required). Café, gas station, RV dumping station, coin-operated laundry, complimentary showers, gift shop, grocery store, picnic tables, benches, grills, flush toilets Contact: Mesa Verde National Park, 800-449-2288

JUNCTION CREEK CAMPGROUND, SAN JUAN NATIONAL FOREST Location: Five miles northwest of Durango. From Main Avenue, turn west on 25th Street, go 3.5 miles to the National Forest boundary, then 1.5 miles on Forest Road 171. Campground is on the left. Fees required Facilities: 31 Campsites, 14 with electrical hookups. Picnic tables, fire pits, vault toilets, pavilion, horseshoe pits, volleyball court Contact: 970-884-2512

adventure | SUMMER2018

fishing BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON

Access: Easy to very difficult Best Months: Year-round Restrictions: Gold Medal water regulations apply; flies and lures only Flies: Pale Morning Dun Mayfly, Green Sedge Caddis, Western Yellow Sally Stonefly, Rogue Foam It can be a tough hike to the bottom (and an even tougher hike back out), but long stretches of pristine fly fishing waters full of trophy-sized fish await the determined angler. The annual stonefly hatch in early June, an event not to be missed, brings the hogs to the surface. To access the South Rim, head east from Montrose on U.S. Highway 50 toward Gunnison. After 15 miles, turn left at the sign for Black Canyon National Park. This is the gem fishery of the region. The harder you work to get into the gorge, the better the fishing.

CIMARRON FORKS

Access: Easy Best Months: Summer only Restrictions: Catch and release; flies and lures only Flies: Caddis, Mayfly The Cimarron River, a major tributary to the Gunnison River, offers excellent fishing for rainbow, cutthroat and brook trout. Much of the lower Cimarron is private, but the bottom three miles, starting at the confluence of the Gunnison, are open to public

fishing. Both the Middle Fork and the West Fork feature good access from the road; to access much of the East Fork, you’ll need to hike a streamside (TR 228) trail. The Forks offer solitude, scenery and fun action on dry flies. Though Caddis and Mayflies work well, don’t overlook big attractor patterns in mid to late summer. Access the river via a drive up County Road 10, Owl Creek Pass, about two miles north of Ridgway. This road becomes Forest Road 858, which drops down the east side of the West Fork of the Cimarron to Silver Jack Reservoir.

UNCOMPAHGRE AT PA-CO-CHU-PUK

Access: Easy, streamside Best Months: Year-round Restrictions: Catch and release; flies and lures only Flies: Midge Nymphs, Copper Johns, Wooly Buggers Perhaps the best place to fish on the Uncompahgre River is below the dam at Ridgway State Park. The tail water fishery, Pa-co-chu-puk (Ute for Cow Creek), has been rehabilitated with boulder placements, log anchors and other features that provide excellent habitat for fish. This section of the river can be fished year-round for good-sized rainbows, browns and cutthroat (stocked and wild). The mile and a half of river holds some large trout, with summer and fall consistent with daily mayfly hatches. From Ridgway, drive north on U.S. Highway

(Photo by Matt McCannel/courtesy of RIGS Fly Shop)

550 for approximately 7 miles. Look for the Pa-co-chu-puk entrance on the west side of the road.

SOUTH FORK OF THE SAN MIGUEL/ILIUM VALLEY

Access: Easy, roadside Best Months: Spring to early fall Restrictions: Catch and release; flies and lures only Flies: Tan Caddis, Prince Nymph This classic small mountain stream is close to Telluride and provides the opportunity to catch all four of the region’s trout species: brown, brook, rainbow and cutthroat. Pack your patience, however, as willows are thick along the banks in many areas. From Telluride, drive west on State Highway 145 to the turn off to Ilium Valley to the south. Follow this road as it parallels the river. It’s a short, flat hike to the stream from pullouts along the road. Beware of private property. If you don’t know, ask.

SAN MIGUEL RIVER/VALLEY FLOOR

Access: Easy Best Months: Post-runoff to late fall Restrictions: Catch and release, flies and lures only Flies: Prince Nymph, San Juan worm, Copper John, Hare’s Ear Now that public access has been opened on Telluride’s Valley Floor, this small portion of the San Miguel River is fishable. Whether on foot or by car, there are access points on the east

(River Trail), north (Shell station) and west (Society Turn/Lawson Hill) sides of the Valley Floor. Its convenient location and easy access makes it a perfect stream for anglers of all ages to get out and cast a rod. Look for shade lines and undercut banks, and proceed upstream cautiously as these fish are often easily spooked.

UPPER DOLORES RIVER

Access: Easy, roadside Best Months: Midsummer to late fall Restrictions: Catch and release; flies and lures only Flies: Trude, Royal Wulff, Peacock Caddis The Dolores River flows from the high mountains above Lizard Head Pass to McPhee Reservoir. The upper Dolores (Lizard Head Pass to the town of Dolores) is a freestone stream similar to the San Miguel, fed by a dozen cutthroat and brook trout streams descending from alpine basins. Willing fish and magnificent scenery make the Dolores a Colorado fly-fishing classic. Follow State Highway 145 south from Telluride to Lizard Head Pass. The highway follows the river, and pullouts offer easy walking access to the stream. Near the top of Lizard Head Pass, the headwaters of the Dolores can offer great small-stream fishing fun as well. Bring very light tackle to handle the small waters.

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