Tekstil Teknik Mayıs'14

Page 1

ISSN 1300-9982

196696 / 2014 - 05

MAYIS MAY 2014

YIL YEAR 30

SAYI ISSUE 352

www.tekstilteknik.com.tr




We are together with you for 30 years

MAYIS | MAY | 2014 YIL | YEAR : 30 - SAYI | ISSUE : 352

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Otomotivin tekstille uyumu... Textile ambition of automotive -

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It is a reality that we need to concentrate on the Technical textile to achieve permanent success at nowadays textile sector. One of the usage areas of Technical textile is transportation textile. The usage of textile materials in cars has increased due to coming into prominence of security and comfort in automotive industry. People’s expectation from cars has increased to higher level because people spend more time inside the car and the standards of living in the world have rised. The subjects like confort, functionality, security, economy and ecological are cared for the manufacturing of the automotive materials. Passenger cars include textile materials nearly 20kg or 40-45 square meter. However, the total weightiness of textile used does not out range 2 % of the total automobile weightiness. In terms of cost, transportation textile is at the first order in the Technical textiles but in terms of output amount it is at these condorder. Car manufacturers use ecologically harmless materials for human and environment in automotive industry. Nowadays, decreasing of weightiness may be possible with changing metallic parts to the fiber-reinforced composites. So the biggest changes are expected in the area of composites for transportation textiles. The situation of transportation textiles in the future largely depends on new developments and new designs in automotive sector as well as the development of fiber.



Happy Mother’s Day!!! -

PALET

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Anne sevgisi?

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Celebrations of mothers and motherhood can be traced back to the ancient Greeks and Romans, who held festivals in honor of the mother goddesses Rhea and Cybele. During the 1600’s, the early Christians in England celebrated a day to honor Mary, the mother of Christ. The holiday was later expanded in its scope to include all mothers, and named as the Mothering Sunday. As Christianity spread throughout Europe, the celebration changed to honor the “Mother Church” - the spiritual power that gave them life and protected them from harm. Over time the church festival blended with the Mothering Sunday celebration. People began honoring their mothers as well as the church.This custom eventually faded in popularity before merging with the American Mother’s Day in the 1900s. The American incarnation of Mother’s Day was created by Anna Jarvis. Following her mother’s 1905 death, Anna Jarvis conceived of Mother’s Day as a way of honoring the sacrifices mothers made for their children. After gaining financial backing from a Philadelphia department store owner named John Wanamaker, in May 1908 she organized the first official Mother’s Day celebration in West Virginia. Following the success of her first


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Mother’s Day, Jarvisstarted a massive campaign urging the adoption of a special day honoring motherhood. Her persistence paid off in 1914 when President W. Wilson signed a measure officially establishing the second Sunday in May as Mother’s Day. However, once Mother’s Day became a national holiday, it was not long before florists, card companies and other merchants capitalized on its popularity. Jarvis would later denounce the holiday’s commercialization, and ironically enough she spent the latter part of her life trying to remove it from the calendar without any success. Mother’s Day has been celebrated all over the world whiledates and celebrations vary.


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D端nya iplik 端retimi World yarn output down but fabric output up in Q4/2013


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Global yarn production dropped in Q4/2013 in comparison to the previous quarter as a result of lower output in Asia, South and North America while production in Europe was up. Yearon-year global yarn production was up with all regions – except South America – recording higher output levels. Worldwide yarn stocks rose due to higher inventories in Europe and Asia and despite lower ones in South America. On

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an annual basis global yarn stocks were up as well in all regions, except in South America. Yarn orders in Europe increased slightly but dropped in Brazil in Q4/2013. Compared to last year’s quarter yarn orders were lower both in Brazil and Europe. Global fabric output was up in Q4/2013 as a consequence of higher production in Europe and Asia and despite lower output in South America. Year-on-year world fabric production rose due to increases in Asia and Europe and despite a drop in South America. Fabric stocks were slightly higher globally as a result of higher inventories in North and South America, while stocks were reduced in Europe and Asia. In comparison to last year’s quarter worldwide fabric stocks fell due to lower inventories in South



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and North America while stocks rose in Asia and Europe. Fabric orders in Brazil and Europe decreased in Q4/2013. On an annual basis fabric stocks were up both in Brazil and Europe. Estimates for yarn production for Q1/2014 are positive in Asia, Europe, North and South America. Estimates for fabric production for Q1/2014 are positive in Asia, Europe and South America and negative in North America. The outlook for yarn production for Q2/2014 is positive in Asia and unchanged in Europe and South America.

The outlook for fabric production for Q2/2014 is positive in Asia and unchanged in Europe and South America. In comparison to the previous quarter world yarn output dropped in Q4/2013 by -15.4% due to lower output in Asia (-16.1%), South America (-14.7%) as well as in North America (-6.7%) and despite an increase in Europe (+4.6%). In comparison to Q4/2012 global yarn production rose by +8.7% as a result of higher production levels in Asia (+9.6%), North America (+5.0%), Europe (+0.7%) irrespective of


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a decline in South America (-6.7%). Compared with the previous quarter global fabric production rose in Q4/2013 by +4.3% with Europe and Asia recording higher outputs of +6.4% and +5.6%, respectively, while South America’s production fell by -15.3%. Year-onyear global fabric production was up as well (+3.5%) with Asia recording a production jump of +5.4% and Europe of +2.0%, while South America recorded a slump of -19.8%. Global yarn inventories were up by +1.2% in Q4/2013 due to higher stocks in Europe (+3.3%) and Asia (+1.4%) with stocks in South America down by -0.7%. On an annual basis global yarn inventories rose by +3.9% with Europe’s yarn inventory up by +4.6% and Asia’s by +3.2%. In South America yarn stocks were reduced by -5.5%.

Global fabric stocks in Q4/2013 increased slightly by +0.1% resulting from higher inventories in North America (+1.5%) and South America (+0,4%) and despite lower stocks in Europe (-1.1%) and Asia (-0.2%). Global fabric stocks were down year-on-year by -3.1% resulting from lower stocks in South America and North America (-16.8% and -0.2%, respectively). Fabric stocks in Asia and Europe on the other hand rose by +0.9% and +0.2%, respectively. Yarn orders in Q4/2013 were up in Europe by +0.8% and down in Brazil by -18.7%. Compared to last year’s quarter, yarn orders recorded a fall in Brazil and Europe of -15.8% and -0.3%, respectively. In Q4/2013 fabric orders fell in Brazil by -7.7% and by -2.9% in Europe. On an annual basis they were up in Brazil by +25.1% and in Europe by +3.8%.

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The changes in cotton market -

In the previous days, CottonCouncil International (CCI) has arranged an availability sesof “How will the situation of the market and the effets of China be? In the availability session, the latest data and fore casts relating to cotton market of the world have been explained. The has mentioned the subjects regarding the fu-



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ture of the cotton sector at the pres meeting. At

effect the supplies of cotton in the world, in

predict that China will importless cotton in the

China’s decreasing of cotton importation is an

consumption in these years and this situation will not cause pressure on the cotton price. We think the price will be come down specially with selling the stocks in China. China absorbs the production capacity surplus. We predict that cultivation area in America will a little expand. The expanding of the cultivation area in America may cause the increasing of the stocks in the countries except China. Cotton consumption of the world will continue its increasing between the years of 2014-2015. The maximum consumer of cotton is China. The world wide textile sector follows the policies of China closely, because The Government of China stil possesses more than % 50 cotton stock of the world. Any changes, China may do with Its policies, may

has become prominent based on reductioning of the prices. Thus, Turkey has become the biggest customer of cotton from USA, by passing China in the season of 2013-2014. On the other hand, Turkey has already known as a great power in cotton market. Turkey is a biggest cotton importer in the world after China. For consumption, Turkey comes after China, India and year. Generally, cotton importing has become that the two country, USA and China, designate ignated according to these two countries because USA is a primary exporter of cotton and China is the biggest consumer of cotton.�



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Kordsa Global, y端ksek kaliteli 端r端nleriyle Kordsa Global was in the center of attention with its high quality products -

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Strong, high denier yarns -

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FESPA’da sergileyecek Mimaki pulls the creative card at FESPA Digital 2014 -

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of wide-format inkjet printers and cutting plotters for the sign/graphics, textile/apparel and industrial markets, today an-

Entry-level JFX200-2513 UV inkjet flatbed and Tx500-1800DS direct sublimation printer for the textile and soft signage markets to be highlighted.



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senting two printing solutions: the JFX200-2513 entry-level UV inkjet flatbed and the Tx5001800DS direct sublimation printer for the textile

of visitors to our stand at the show.” For sign and display graphics businesses in

marks the European debut of the latter.

“High speed meets high productivity with this innovative textile printer,” Horsten added. “It features a new Sb300 ink that is more affordable than conventional ink, as well as increased print speed for polyester fabrics.”

ward-looking sign and display graphics opmaki is pleased to be able to bring to the show two solutions that will hopefully challenge the creative minds. Both epitomize the opportunities represented by our new tagline: Together show requiring an imaginative outlook and we are ready to meet the visionary expectations

is pleased to be showing the Tx500-1800DS di-

with visitors about their goals and objectives, and to help them match these needs to the “Together We Create” new business opportunities, improved operations, and the highest quality solutions in the marketplace.



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new ground in China -

Following the success of recent yarn sourcing events, Cotton Council International (CCI) partnered with Turkish members of ufacturers from across China in Shanghai. Eight Turkish mills (Beyteks, Ensar, Erdem,

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thirty-one fabric manufacturers in one-onone meetings over a three day long period. Due to China’s cotton policy, imported cotton yarns remain competitively priced com-


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pared to selected domestic yarn counts. Currently Turkey sells small amounts of yarn to China but feedback from Chinese authorities suggests significantly more market potential for the Turkish mills in the future. These meetings were the first step in developing Turkish exports to China. The Chinese textile manufacturers included: Hong Ji, Dalian Ichihiro Towel, Dongguan Kefang, Dongtai Oriental Weaving, Esquel Group, ing, Hebei Spring Textiles, HebeiYongliang Textiles, Huafang, Ibena Shanghai Technical Textiles, JiangmenDaxing Knitting, Jiangsu Shazhou

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shan Textiles, Tianjin Tianfang, Winner Industries, Zhangjiagang Zhenmeng Textiles. They were joined by the Chinese buying office of the TurkFollowing the three day private trade fair, Turkish mills toured four factories located in Nantong and Wuxi to meet purchasing managers and discuss product needs. In all, CCI organized a total of 280 face-to-face meetings. step toward developing future cooperation. did the trip provide a necessary understanding of the Chinese market, but it was an invaluable way to develop business contacts with a large number of companies in a short period of time.’

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羹yesidir

8 Kamara Fikse ve Kurutma Makinas覺 8 Chambers Heat Setting and Drying Machine


5 Kabin Çift Geçiş Egalize Kurutma Makinası 5 Chambers Double Pass Equalizing (pin-chain) Dryer


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memnuniyeti ön planda Customer satisfaction is in the foreground at Elifteks -

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to its growth every year, is among the important ones of the sector with its qualified products and fast service. Elifteks Chairman of the Executive Board, Saim Çapar who mentions that they aim to increase both the variety of thread and the number of sector by their new investments, says they make their investments according to the needs of their customers. Via the new investments, He told, they appeal to weavers with circu“We started to importation of staple, used for textile fabric and knit fabric because there isn’t production of staple in Turkey and we began doing its colourful at the same time. We started to manufacturing as raw and colourful. Our working continues for those, want to produce specially. Our next target is investing for texturing machine. After this



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investment, both us and thread users have an advantage of cost. We increased the colours 75 and 100 deniers for taggers. There is not any firm in the market, making 50,75 and 100 colourful deniers at the stock. We make both them and doubled yarns. Our aim is increasing both the variety of thread and the number of sector. Now, we address to the sectors of woven label, narrow woven, knitting, circular knitting, textile fabric, sock and home textile. Our target for next year is starting to 20/1, 30/1 coloured cotton yarn as 150-200 colours. The usage area of the co-

loured cotton yarn is wider than other yarn. We do such a work to provide better service. We will compile our catalogue at the beginning of the 2015. We advance as setting a goal every year.� FOLLOWS THE TRENDS CLOSELY Çapar who has emphasized multifilament yarns are started to be used much more, interpreted are began to be preferred. The usage of slimmer yarns have increased in also cotton. Gimped yarns and lycra will be used much more. They



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are already used at knitting and socks. We are trying to assign the trends by following the fairs closely. We meet the demands of the customers by working in a flexible manner with the gimped yarns. Customers, who need varied gimped yarns to use for socks, knitting and textile fabric, reach us. By manufacturing varied cloths, the manufacturers want to step forward. Here, we create solutions for them and contribute to provide advantages. Threads are made of natural preferred due to its lasting fiber. The usage of polyester has been rised even in bathrobes and towels. Especially the usage of cotton and polyester blend cloths has got growth each passing easier and also raw material shortage has not developing so the consumption of threads also increase in a direct proportion. Because of the production deficiency of synthetic threads in Turkey, we have to import.” OFFERING SOLUTIONS TO THE CUSTOMERS Saim Çapar, who mentions about their being able to respond the fast procurement of exporters due demands of our customers owing to the fact that we, as a firm, have a flexible structure. When the

customers want a special thread, we have the ability of being supply that. The firms which want

ment) activities and we work on this subjects seriously. All our products are Ekoteks certificated. We can provide the customers’ demands of thread, not existing in Turkey, have been requested by importation. We are trying to ensure customer satisfaction. Our growth has continued in accordance with demands and propositions.” PRODUCTION SHOULD BE ENCOURAGED Çapar has mentioned about Turkey’s obligation of thread importation because Turkey cannot meet the needs of sector. Also he said, thread production based on raw materials should be encouraged without area differenproducer can only meet the needs at the rate of 60%-70%. The other part which is the need of the sector is imported. This rate is 80% for polyester, 100% for sewing threads. I think the imported threads, Turkey need, should be included in incentive scope for the investments to make for the production in our country. Thus, the needs for intermediate goods disappear and also current deficit has been met.”



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Hygienic fabric from olive pomace

One of the projects exhibited at “UTIB 6th International R&D Brokerage Event in Turkish Textile and Apparel Sector” held in recent days, is

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is organized by Uludag Textile Exporters’ Aswith the sector and the investors gave the first result in terms of establishing partnerships. As a result of the negotiations made -

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the parties to establish a partnership. The fabrics which will be manufactured as a result of this partnership will have a particular bad odor blocker property. Speaking ive Farm – reminded that he was the owner


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of the world’s largest organic olive farm that consists of approximately 185 thousand trees and he said: “Till today, we had many projects about olive for creating added value from olive branch, olive juice and olive oil. I think the products which are going to be produced as a result of our last partnership will be used in many areas of textile”. PROJECT OWNERS ARE HAPPY Expressing her satisfaction because of establishing a partnership from their projfabrics can be manufactured from oleuropein as a result of “The Antimicrobial

which satisfy their humidity needs from textile products and their nutritional ly bad odors, unwanted discolorations, blemishes and sudden loss of strength on textile materials. The project will be implemented by filling oleuropein – which has an important role at durability of olive trees – into halloysite nanoclay and applying to home textile materials”


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Picanol Picanol at


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As one of the world’s leading weaving ways had a very close relationship with the Chinese textile industry. This relationship is not a matter of chance or coincidental developments: on the contrary, it is the result of long-term, strategic plan-

to explore the possibilities in the Far East, part in one of the first international exhibitions held in Beijing. This was the period in Ieper, criss-crossed the Orient to promote its weaving machines at exhibitions and technical seminars. The growing China, as well as the increasing demand




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tion. The majority of the Chinese management, engineers and technicians have been trained which was set up in Shanghai in 1987. A network of local service engineers was also established to serve the other South-Asian countries. The ery Works, thus starting its career as a Chinese textile machinery manufacturer. This set-up took place in 1994 and we celebrate this year the 20 duction line outside Belgium and the technology and organization were based entirely on the assembly concept employed at the company’s plete production unit with 3 assembly lines for 4

airjet insertion technology), a mechatronics division, a sales, service and spare parts organiza-

the top layer of the mid segment and are besides in China, also quite successful in the new emerging textile regions outside China. Headquarters in Belgium One of the big assets of this cross border entrepreneurship is the mixture of drawing upon standing of its local customers. With more than aims not just at development and production of the most advanced weaving machines, but also achieving the most profitable weaving



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Picanol offer solutions X with airjet insertion technology. Together, these machines cover the full spectrum of textiles including apparel, household and technical fabrics. The high degree of digitization of all these machines, together with their Sumo main drive, ensures a lower weaving cost, higher quality of the fabrics produced, greater flexibility and exceptional ease of operation in comparison with other weaving machines.

wide variety of weaving machines, both airjet Suzhou plant in China, but using the proven sponds to the requirements of the Asian midend segment. A novelty on this machine is that it is now also available in 280 and 340 cm widths



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in addition to the existing weaving widths of 190 cm and 220 cm. Here special attention was given to improved quality output, user friendliness and lower energy costs. As for the rapier ma-

on display at the Bonas booth and another one on the Staubli booth. As a technological mar-

coating fabric on a 540 cm machine equipped fancy denim fabric will be woven. For the first shown. This new weaving machine is a further

gripper system and heavier machine drive, which allows higher production speeds. Also the dobby and undermotion have been com-

assure the highest performance of its weaving machines, both for new machines and for those already installed in the field. For each new product development launched on new machines, the new feature can bring a solution or benefit to get the most out of the weaving machine. Also the after market upgrade possibilities will



to present premium rings -

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R+F is one of the most famous manufacturers of spinning rings and ring travellers with a long tradition as a family-owned business. Customers all over the world successfully rely on the confirmed advantages of R+F’s high

the latest generation of TURBO chromium coated rings and AVUS ring travellers as well as enhanced J- and Nylon travellers.


Hall E3 - F10


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1. TURBO rings in K2 profile available in flange 1 and 1/2 offer simplified running-in and stable running performance even under extreme spinning conditions with lack of lubrication. This interesting feature makes TURBO rings most suitable for spinning with highest spindle speeds and for critical spinning conditions like Compact and Siro-Compact spinning. Since their

launch into the market in 2007 more than 12 success of the end-users all over the world. 2. The special feature of AVUS travellers is their ability to quickly develop a matching contact area with the spinning ring. This effectively avoids increased fly-offs when fitting fresh travellers on the rings. The current innovation is a significant improvement of the surface quality directly in contact with the yarn. The so achieved reduced friction leads to very good performance of the AVUS travellers on fine and sensitive yarns. 3. The new generation of J-travellers includes further improvements of the running performance and allows prolonging the traveller service life-time. The improvements are especially confirmed on fine counts and on yarns spun from sensitive fibre materials. 4. For the processing of glass fibres R+F is introducing the newly developed series of horizontal travellers for twisting of fine fibre-glass filaments on rings in the height of 4.8 mm.



Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Oerlikon Manmade Fibers -

Once again, the combination of the

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important trade fair event for the textile machine sector. For the fourth time since 2008, the trade fair will be taking place in China’s megacity of Shanghai, this year



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from 16th to 20th of June at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre (SNIEC). Un-

Stand F01 with its Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag brands. In the fiftieth year of its partnership with the Chinese textile industry, extraordinary anniversary with all its guests at its trade fair stand. The company has been supplying China with manmade fiber spinning plants for half a century now. The manmany, hence laid the foundations back in the mid-1960s for the currently excellent business relations with the world’s largest manufac-

turers of polyester and polyamide. Neumag followed soon after. The focus of the trade fair attendance of the world’s leading manmade fiber manufacturing solutions provider

yarn manufacturers with innovative technologies and sophisticated services. Here, environmentally friendly and sustainable, e-save certified solutions are in the foreground. “We will be presenting the trade audience with several innovations focusing on the topic of manmade fiber yarn manufacturing, both in the service sector and in the form of concrete exhibits”, announces André Wissen-


Hall: 1 Stand: 126 B

Stand: C9


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by promising: “Our engineers and market experts are looking forward to avidly talking to our customers from across the world.” The exhibit highlights of Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag at a glance In concrete terms, the showcased product portfolio will range from continuous polyconods for environmentally-friendly direct spindyeing using the 3DD mixer technology all the way through to the very latest high-speed es. In addition to exhibiting spinning pumps, the company will also be focusing on production solutions for nonwovens and for specialty yarns. “Once again, we will be deploying virtual reality at our trade fair stand: in our virtual showroom, we will be displaying our technolo-

gies in 3D, hence taking visitors on a journey through our systems and machines”, explains marketing expert Rickey Steele, who will be accompanying customers through virtual worlds during all five days of the trade fair. WINGS POY 1800 boosts yarn production by another 20 percent Oerlikon Barmag has set a new benchmark for the efficient production of polyester fibers with winding unit boosts productivity by another 20 percent using virtually the same amount of production space as the previous model. underscoring our technological leadership in the area of filament spinning. We will use this technology to sustainably bolster our market share of more than 40 percent in the man-



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made fiber machinery industry�, says Stefan ment. Compared to its predecessor model, bobbins instead of the previous ten bobbins which required highly sophisticated technical writing another chapter in our success story and moving even further ahead of our competitors. Unlike any other spinning products in the marketplace, WINGS delivers efficient

and profitable filament production, while supplying the highest level of yarn quality,� comments Stefan Kross. The Winding INtegrated Godet Solution, or WINGS, is highly user-friendly, groundbreaking equipment that requires more than 30 percent less space. Oerlikon in 2007, ushering in a totally new dimension to

have been sold since market introduction.



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Win Trax Winder -

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WINGS PA HOY for special requirements The new WINGS take-up concept, designed for the special requirements of economical nylon HOY production, offers all the benefits special optimization for the HOY requirements, including the high intermingling knots, spray for protection and the friction-optimized take-up design for lowest nylon denier ranges”, says

DTY solutions The eFK manual and eAFK automatic texturing Oerlikon Barmag’ texturing: tried-and-test solutions such as the take-up system and the pneumatic yarn string-up device have been retained and new technologies have been deployed where they markedly improve machine efficiennovative features for the texturing technologies. Staple FORCE S 1000 – compact and economical The new, compact plant is specially laid out for the economical production of staple fibers in small lots of up to 15 tons per day, as required for the production of carded nonwovens. The Staple FORCE not only impresses with its low initial investment and compact construction, but the energy costs are also significantly reduced as a result of replacing steam and water baths

with a dry-drawing process. “The Staple FORCE S 1000 is directed at downstream integrators, who in future wish to manufacture the fibers for their products in-house, enabling the nonwovens producer to manufacture and further develop its end products without disclosing knowhow and without quality fluctuations”, explains

WinTrax Winder for high-performance yarns Special yarns are not only deployed in special applications, they also require special processing methods and techniques. “The WinTrax winder was developed specifically for sensigional Sales Director Oerlikon Barmag. WinTrax is the solution for the economic production of carbon fibers of the very highest quality with a simultaneously perfect package build. Flexible, simple to operate and with minimum maintenance requirements, WinTrax is available either as a manual or as an automatic winder. Partnering for performance In addition to the machine exhibits, Oerlikon fer new services especially within the Asian market, which has grown immensely in importance above all over the past few years and which today – with more than 70 percent of worldwide manmade fiber production – is the center of a


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is able to draw on a very well-developed network and established processes, especially in China. And it goes without saying that the Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag service experts bring many years of experience with them. 10 years of e-save technological position is based on a corporate culture in which great importance is given to future-oriented develperformance, innovativeness, integrity and team spirit are the values that describe the daily business and against whose results the employees at Oersured. With its e-save program, Oerlikon energy-efficient systems, machines and components back in 2004. Over the past ten years, e-save has firmly established itself as a trademark for a comprehensive efficiency program. This underlines made Fibers plays in commercial suc-

are developed with the following four esave factors in mind: energy, economics, environment and ergonomics.


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For more than 35 years, Retech has been developing and producing components and installations for processing of synthetic filaments mainly in the field of thermal and mechanical treatment in order to create added value for our customers worldwide. Behind the nomencla-

ture thermal and mechanical treatment there is a large amount of Know-How and technical competence. E.g. Thermal treatment goes in 2 directions, namely heating as well as active larger range, starting from a big variety of dif-



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ferent process speeds, an extensive range of different coatings of the godet rolls which are also vital to the excellent function and superior quality of the final product. RETECH offers complete solutions coming either as stand-alone concepts or fully integrated, as a retro-fit or upgrade of existing equipment. As the leading global partner of the textile industry in its field, RETECH Switzerland can look back on many years of experience in the world of research and development of components and installations, which are also used to significant advantage in other areas of the industry, such as solar cells. Heated godets are since many years RETECH’s “flagship” and are used originally on drawtwisters they are now to be seen on most spin-draw and spin-draw-texturing machines running at surface speeds of 2,500 – 6,000 m/min. Although they are just as capable of transferring

heat to a bundle of filaments as contact heaters, their use in the false-twist texturing process has always been prevented by the high twist in the yarn as it leaves the heated roll. The temperature range of the Retech induction heated godets is between 50°C and 250°C, this really high range gives an even higher flexibility and added value to the customer. Retech godet rolls are customized flexible solutions concept there are three main sizes of motor, which are available in different performances. For these types of motors there are different roll diameters in various lengths available. After defining the heated godet size, the type of heating can be decided according specific customer process data such as the material to be processed, yarn count, number of



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threads and wraps, process speed and temperatures, draw forces and yarn properties. In most cases the godets are heated by induction. Together with the customer on the base of process requirements Retech engineers work out the decision if one-zone or a multizone heating will be used and fact is that RETECH godets are capable of 6000 m/min with temperatures up to 250 °C. Furthermore is there the definition of the interface with the machine frame. In this case RETECH also offers wide range multi functional flanges with possibilities to adjust the angle. Alternatively the godets are available with their own bearing buildings to use for a very low speed application or to use them with a belt drive to drive several godet rolls centrally. Retech offers the customer a tailor made technical as well as financial solution and hence achieves the highest flexibility and benefit for the end-user of this godet rolls. In line with RETECH’s credo “always 1 step ahead” we are now focused on increasing the efficiency of the heating. Basically there are 2 technologies available to control the heating. One option is offered by using high frequency application, quite efficient but also costly because additional devices are required. The other option is the conventional control using 50/60 Hz technollosses. RETECH now has improved on the common and reliable 50/60 Hz technology. Air bearing separator rolls RETECH is focusing on a larger range of Air Bearing Separator Rolls (ABSR). We have successfully implemented this technology in the market, numerous ABSR’s are in operation worldwide, size 58 x 228 mm as well as new versions e.g. 58

x 320 mm / 36 x 158 mm and 35 x 80 mm, just to mention some. The advantage of our ABSR’s is the fact that our rolls reduce the air consumption by around 30 % and can sustain to higher radial and axial forces. Thanks to a complex technology we were able to reduce the air consumption of our latest version ABSR further, in fact the energy consumption is 1/3 less compared to conventional ABSR’s, combined with lower wear and tear.The main reason for such space available by means of individual design of all parts, considering the permanent weight and tolerances. Nano- technology is involved in order to reinforce the axial bearing. - In order to generate a maximum pay-load and a minimum on flywheel mass combined with supemore than design on paper but technical detailed evidence in the field. Consistent quality control is monitored as a necessity to achieve highest quality standards in order to make this product successful in the market. RETECH improves quality with the on-line oped a yarn tension measuring system that continuously monitors yarn tension, records yarn breaks, calculates downtimes and provides machine efficiency and quality data. This system was originally invented by Retech AG in the early 1980’s thereafter distributed until 2009. Subsequently Retech itself approached the world-wide market very successfully to the satisfaction of the customers. standard product as well as the entire Win-


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standard for high quality and optimised production. Sustainability is becoming more and more important in every textile components which are running for more than 2 years without any problems to the satisfaction of the customers and where spare parts are granted over years. The developments of Retech show in this direction. RETECH uses only materials which can be recycled without any exception and all new developments are based on environmental correct solutions. If the customer takes into account the cost of the whole system, a RETECH solution is cost neutral from the beginning. A cost calculation shows that energy cost of the drawing process, depending on the yarn, can be reduced between 20 and 80%. However, a lot of customer still judges the price of each component rather than the advantages of the overall system. Unfortunately, the energy consumption in production is still given too little attention. The Focus in 2014 will be to convince customers to see modifications in this angle of vision. RETECH´s components and installations are important links within the textile value chain. As the market leader, RETECH has extensive Know-How in design and construction of drawing elements in order to provide high-quality installations with excellent customer service. What customers need to purchase, such as process components for technical yarn, for sports wear as well as for automotive or tyre cord is part of the creativity of the Swiss manufacturer RETECH in this particular field. At RETECH the entire effort is

always focused on delivering customer benefits and keeping a close contact to the clients. The mutual success is primarily based on the company’s knowledge and focuses to meet every aspect of its customers’ requirements - at all times and in every location, globally yours, value added exclusively from RETECH Switzerland.


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ürünlerini iki stantta sergileyecek Mesdan to be demonstrated -

equipment producer from Italy, will have two distinguished display area in spinning and quality control and dyeing testing halls: Spinning Hall

tair ®

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® ve MoistAir

variety of yarn joining techniques will be on

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Jointair available in both hand-operated and automatic version. The later for the retrofitting of SAVIO and Qindgao Hongda winders,

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replacement of old splicers with latest splicing technology aimed to improve yarn quality and ® 6901R, launched at Shanghaitex 2013, its extraordinary results in ® yarns (not only!) brought forward consistent orders and increasing suc-

- Hot Jointair ® 4984B, a quality splice benchmark for worsted, cashmere and fancy yarns. Also to be demonstrated will be quality control testing equipment, the main focus we expect

for accurate measurement of moisture content and regain in fibres and yarn packages.

ple test execution which can be performed by cally measures moisture regain by means of a powerful dedicated software that provides statistical analysis of the results and calculates



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rovings and spun yarns, both natural and manReduced consumption of electricity (about 0.125 kW), practically zero when compared Quality Control & Dyeing Testing Hall power microwave radiations released do not bust instrument that does not require special environmental conditions to operate properly. -

Other testing equipment on display in the spinning hall will be: - NATI, Neps and Trash indicator, a very popular tool for detecting, measuring and classifying neps in row material and slivers, - AUTODYN, fully automatic tensile tester, fully automatic evenness tester for slivers,

dyeing and finishing, gave a great impulse to cations of its textile QC laboratory equipment der the slogan “From lab to bulk�, some innovative new equipment will be showcased for the first time, two deserve particular attention: - The machine, endowed with two very special feamatic valves) eliminates stop-start operations and improves considerably dyeing uniformity,



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worldwide) allows for use of only one type of pot for all liquor ratio which covers the following volumes: 100, 150, 200,, 250 and 300cc. Bigger pots capacity 500 and 1000cc available as well. These and other factors allow drastic dyeing time reduction, improved dye accuracy, uniformity and dye reproducibility. Fully programmable, suitable for low liquor ration dyeing (1:5), for all types of dyes, dye methods and materials (fibers, yarns, fabrics). - The H.T. AUTO- DYEING machine, miniature laboratory pilot piece dyeing machine, reptomatic, from pre-treatment to washing off –

one bath and reproducibility between baths quality thermal insulation saves on power and

(to reduce liquor ratio), vacuum pump (for VAT systems is made in Italy using best quality stainless steel and best electronic components. At the same both, other testing instruments for the physical fabric testing will be on display: ing tester, due to its consistent quality and re-

fibres, yarns, fabrics made of any dyeable fiprogrammable, including Auto Dosing (3 aulectable different dyeing programs each with pacities at the time of ordering: 300cc, 600cc one programmer for all positions running same program) or endowed with the Flexi-Tech (with

considered already a benchmark for the Chinese government Inspection Bureaus as well AIRTRONIC, air permeability tester complying grammable, measures sample distension and with live graphic display during test execution.



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yeni otomatik polar bobinleme Savio to exhibit new automatic Savio introduces for the first time in an inter-

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Turkey in late 2013. This new fully automatic machine is addressed to any spinning mills no matter the type of ring spinning frames, with or without automatic doffing. The trend to the automation is widely spreading around, also in those textile environments where generally the up-stream process is still managed in a manual way, and consequently the spinning bobbins would not be specifically favorable for an automatic handling. This new Savio winder represents the “universal solution� and the perfect reply to these additional needs. Consequently these mills can invest in a flexible and highly efficient winder, can reduce the investment cost being the machine provided with high number of positions (max 72) and high feeding capacity, and last can reduce


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freedom. Full automation of the feeding process. Geared to process bobbins of any shape and quality with greatest poshai, Savio will also display the automatic already a best seller in the Chinese market. This manual feeding winder is particularly designed for the Far East market in order to meet the high yarn quality demand, together with high production output, reduced energy consumption, maintenance and investment. The machine, with manual bobbins feeding and manual or automatic packages doffing, completely controls all the parameters of the winding process by the the self-diagnosis monitoring per each winding head. High productivity, together with yarn and package quality level, can be obtained thanks to the flexible and intelligent cycle, in addition to the controlled and customized dynamic drum acceleration. The direct drive of the moving parts and the specially designed suction system allow a reduced energy consumption.


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Tecnorama’dan DOS&DYE Compact sistemi DOS&DYE Compact system by Tecnorama Dedicated since its founding to develop technologically advanced solutions, Tec-

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is a completely automatic system for managing and performing laboratory dyeing tests and for the creation of samples and relative recipes for use in production. It is composed by a Dosorama automated dispensing machine and a Dyrama robotized dying machine that have been awarded

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energy and environmental performance. The technological excellence and the con-

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tinuous innovation research that distinguishes Tecnorama led to achieve optimal levels of energy and environmental performance with significant benefits in terms of reducing production costs. The great reliability and reproducibility of results leads to energy and water consumption savings and to faster dyeing execution times in laboratory work and subsequent phases of bulk production. This special system can be used to manage, in complete autonomy, all laboratory work cycles without requiring any manual intervention, helping to prevent human errors during work processes. The system is able to work for many hours without the assistance of the machine operator, and represent a cutting-edge

solution in this particular, strategic sector. replacement/replenishment of expired/exhaust-

handling bottles, pipettes, powder dispensing to 24 independent dyeing units (20g, 100g, 200g and 500g) for the exact reproduction of bulk production dyeing cycles, with automatic execution on materials of varying nature, with up to 160 dyeing cycles in complete autonomy. -


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color production facility of its global manufacturing headquarters, located in Carlstadt, New Jersey. The decision by the world leader in color specification to make this acquisition came after dyeing tests at Tecnorama’s laboratories, which yielded impressive results. The matic, robotized dosing and dyeing sysduction efficiencies while maintaining its high standards for color reproduction

system is sure to be a profitable technical collaboration between the two color companies: Tecnorama will provide hardware, software upgrades and techupon its deep practical experience to suggest improvements and optimization

Hall W5 - H13




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beslemesinde yĂźksek teknolojiye High Tech in Yarn Storage Feeding -

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BTSR launches UNIFEEDER, an innovative solution drastically overcoming the state-of-art of yarn storage feeding technology and destined to dramatically impact socks, hosiery and knitting textile sectors. A new concept multi-patAnti-twist System’ and able to guarantee a total combined yarn feeding and storage confeeder Concept introduced on the market.

A Jump Ahead UNIFEEDER comes with innovative unique features and high-tech functions and represents a drastic jump ahead compared with the traditional storage feeding technological offer. New concept working principles such as the BTSR patentFloating Ring and the Output Constant Tension Self-Adaptive Technology represent radical product innovations bringing unique benefits in terms



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of production quality and repeatability (constant size, yarn misplating and breakage prevention etc.) and of unlimited styles programming. All in One Single Device UNIFEEDER unique technology includes input yarn breakages and knots detection control as well as yarn tears compensation, providing real-time machine stop signaling and preventive needles breakages, yarn waste, second-rate production. UNIFEEDER is much more than a simple storage feeder, by providing advanced unique pability (i.e for technical textile applications, sock leg, seamless). The possibilities to real-time meapensate its variation (i.e. due to fluff accumulation in the yarn finger) is unique features on the minimized size and weight (up to less 50% then traditional storage feeder), thus allowing the sim-

plest and cost-saving installation configurations energy consumption, unlimited styles programming possibilities, advanced display for easy UNIFEEDER is universally retrofittable on all types of socks, pantyhose, seamless and circular knitdevice with direct connection to the machine. Fast return on investment UNIFEEDER represent a high-profitable investment for textile operators who will implement this solution vestment’ (ROI) in terms of production efficiency, cost-saving and machine maintenance. UNIFEEDER represents a technological revolution destined ochal change in textile market technological offer as well as in the future textile operators’ demand.



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for superior quality jersey sinkerless fabrics -

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With more than 40 machines sold in 2013 Orizio cess worldwide. This model is still equipped with sinkers but they do not come into contact with the fabric. This eliminates the typical rib effect. The sinkers only operate to restart after a fabric press off. The machine can be 100% operated as a normal single jersey machine thus permit-

ting trouble free production. The machines operating in various markets have been tested for more than 3 years and have proven to operate with all the commonly used yarns including cotton open ends and viscose open ends. The 26� TO 46� diameter on standard or open-width frame and from 16 to 50 gauges.



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has been selling installations for the production of card slivers used for making cotton swabs for many years. The web of

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prox. 1.5 g/m. The four slivers are simultaneously coiled into four cans by means of a Rosink Quad Coiler. Thanks to the high sliver quality and the high production of the machine, this system is extremely ef-

and Rosink machine combinations are on the market. The sliver that can be pro-


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duced with these systems is sufficient for approx. 50,000,000 cotton swabs per hour. To further increase efficiency, swab machines with integrated drafting system. The feed sliver used here has a weight of 3-4 g/m. To fully utilise

the Rosink sliver splitting system has TC 11-H, allowing a production of 4 slivers a 4 g/m. Thus, the card production is more than doubled again. All the advantages and control systems of the sure a perfect sliver evenness at maximum efficiency of the total system.


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Yeni bir otomasyon

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Since 2012 Schlafhorst has been experiencing a sharp increase in demand for customised automation solutions in the package winding department. A new wave of automation is rolling through the global textile markets that will change the industry significantly in the next few years. With the Autoconer X5 and its new modular automation options, Schlafhorst offers spinning mills worldwide an optimal opportunity to ride this trend successfully.


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Automation becoming more individual There are basically three factors that trigger major automation initiatives in the industry: rising labour costs, a shortage of skilled staff and growing quality requirements. Rapidly rising investment in automation of the package winding department is currently marking a new trend. Until recently, the main markets of -

as feasible as the complete integration of the material flow of the ring spinning machine and package winding department for maximum efficiency and quality. For this reason Schlafhorst now offers its customers made-to-measure process automation solutions, which are optimally coordinated to the profile of requirements of each market and company, with the modular machine concept of the Autoconer.

manual machine type. Since 2012 the proportion of automatic Autoconer X5, type D and V winding machines has been increasing steadily and perceptibly. China and India above all are proving to be trendsetters. The degree of automation in these markets is growing dramatically. It is noticeable that the trend towards automation has become much more individual. Gradual automation in differentiated stages is just

Autoconer - the name says it all Competence in creating innovative automation solutions is a tradition at Schlafhorst. The Autoconer 107 in 1962 was the first machine for automatic package winding to be ready to go into series production. Its automated sequences for eliminating yarn breaks and for bobbin changes were groundbreaking at the time. Time-consuming manual joining of the yarns

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and changing every single bobbin by hand were thus consigned to history. In the years following, the name Autoconer became synonymous with automation in the package winding department. Operation was simplified continuously, and more and more sequences were automated. An important impetus for automating the material flow and processes came during the 1980s from the then main markets of the textile industry in Europe and America, where rising labour costs led to a strong shift towards automation. With its caddy transport system for the Autoconer system 238, a feature that is unsurpassed even now, Schlafhorst created a milestone for the entire industry. A holistic view of automation The major strength of Schlafhorst was and is its ability to look at processes in the spinning and winding mill as a whole in order to be able to introduce functional innovations into the individual process stages. Automation was thus looked at from a wide variety of angles too. It is found in different sequences in the winding process, for example:

and winding

With regard to automatic operation of the winding process, for example, sensor-monitored process sequences and central setting of the winding parameters at the Informator were introduced. These advances eliminated labourintensive mechanical adjustment and settings at the individual winding positions. The introduction of the Autoconer 338 was accompanied by the facility for setting the yarn tension regulation centrally, Autotense FX, and the sensor-controlled, centrally adjustable suction plant with AVC system, which rendered the laborious exchange of pulleys superfluous. The introduction of single drives on the Autoconer 5 was a prerequisite for being able to configure further winding parameters centrally, such as the suction arm spacing, the splicer feeder and the waxing. Innovations in automation resulted in a marked reduction in operator workload even on the manually operated winding machine Autoconage handling. The intelligent X-Change doffer is an automation unit that facilitates multi-tube handling and automatic lot changing without manual winding-on at each winding position among other things. The last two points are the automation stages which permit the greatest staff savings to be made. Intelligent automation functions were conceived that both reduced the outlay on operators and improved quality.



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Modular material flow automation The long-term strength of an automation strategy is only demonstrated by the interaction of the modules. Schlafhorst offers every customer the right automation concept with the modular installation and material flow automation of the Autoconer X5. Textile companies with a clear automation strategy will therefore quickly find the optimum solutions for implementing their plans consistently at Schlafhorst. Customers opting for automation for the first time will receive extensive advice from the market and technology leader with regard to changing over their operating sequences. The more individual the requirements, the more important it is to support customers in the design phase. By examining all design variants and using detailed model computations Schlafhorst finds the most efficient and productive solution for each individual customer. Two machine types that are well known and proven over decades for an automatic material flow are the standalone version Autoconer X5 type D and the Autoconer X5 type V, which is directly linked to the ring spinning machine. On the type D, the bobbins are transported manually to the winding machine on large bobbin trucks and then placed onto the caddies via the flat circular conveyor. On the type V, the bobbins are supplied via an interface to the

CTS transfer station, which places the bobbins on the caddies and supplies them to the Autoconer. The empty tubes are returned automatically via the same interface and put back onto the peg trays of the ring spinning machine. The type D machine can be located independently of the ring spinning machine. When switching from a manually operated machine to an automated system, the previous process sequence can be retained virtually unchanged, therefore. And it means more productivity and greater independence from personnel while retaining a high level of lot and material flexibility thanks to the automated bobbin handling. By its direct linkage to the ring spinning machine, the type V machine paves the way for complete process integration between spinning and winding. The spinning and winding machine as well as transport and storage can be optimally coordinated to one another without any operator intervention. This results in higher productivity and improved quality with spindle identification system for the Autoconer X5 type V in particular opens up new possibilities of direct online quality control. The quality of each individual spindle can be monitored 100% and promptly by the system, meaning that quality problems are detected much earlier than in normal laboratory tests and can be


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pinpointed precisely. Targeted early maintenance enables diminishing quality values to be remedied before they fall below the quality limit. However, high process integration in linked systems comes at a price. Converting a spinning mill with a manual process sequence to an automatic material flow calls for new sequences and a different space concept. Even on the type V, a highly integrated automa-

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tion solution, Schlafhorst has taken maximum flexibility into account. The interface between ring spinning machine and package winder on the type V can likewise be custom configured and adapted to the space available as well as to process sequences in the company. A direct link is possible, as is a link via bobbin bridge or an underfloor link. It can be linked to ring spinning machines from all manufacturers.

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Custom-built and individual - the new machine type T To cater even more specifically to customers’ requests, Schlafhorst has extended the product family to include the Autoconer X5 type T machine, which following manual central presentation of the bobbins prepares them automatically. The new machine type is an ultra-modern entry-level model for step-by-step automation of the package winding department. The type T can be equipped with the same automation modules that were developed for the type D. For example, customers can reduce manual intervention at the machine to a minimum with the new yarn seeker and the automatic bobbin tube remover. FlowShare FX, the smartest material flow concept on the market the material flow on the package winding machine itself through FlowShare FX, the smartest

material flow control system on the market. The system guarantees a continuous, self-regulated supply of bobbins to all winding units by reliably compensating for variations in the material supply. The individual functions of the system complement one another in their effect, offering a maximum leap in productivity. Vario Reserve adjusts the number of reserve bobbins at the winding unit flexibly to meet the requirements. High Speed Feeding supports the requirement-driven supply of bobbins to the winding units by variable adjustment of the supply speed under sensor control. But it is Intelligent Bobbin Sharing that makes the autonomous material flow control system perfect. This innovative function, which is only available on the Autoconer X5, ensures an intelligent exchange of bobbins between the winding units. If one winding unit is threatened by a shortage of bobbins, the adjacent unit promptly surrenders a reserve bobbin. Waiting times are avoided thereby. FlowShare FX is therefore the



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optimum expansion for the previously tried and tested FX technologies for top package quality

therefore now also be supplied with up to 70 winding units - a significant leap in productivity!

FX, propack FX and Variopack FX - and now for the ultimate in material flow reliability.

Successful automation with Schlafhorst - a summary Nowadays every company needs a flexible and individually configurable automation solution due to the individual basic conditions in its market. Textile companies that want to achieve successful automation will find a partner in Schlafhorst that considers the specific processes in each individual company as a whole and delivers made-to-measure automation solutions thanks to its modular concept. Customers with excellent process automation have been trusting in Schlafhorst’s competence for many years. In the latest wave of automation, the textile companies that will benefit above all from the know-how of the market leader are those that invest targetedly in automation for the first time and strive for future-ready solutions that are easy to realise and capable of expansion.

Highly productive and economical omy - those are the priority objectives that Schlafhorst is pursuing in the development and improvement of automation solutions. Higher cycle rates have been achieved on the new flat circular conveyor and the improved CTS transfer station. New operating principles on both units result in higher functional reliability at the same time. The consequence is an extremely reliable, fast process sequence without disruptions. Thanks to the perfect interplay between the individual innovations, Schlafhorst also constantly achieves synergy effects in the material flow. Thanks to FlowShare FX and higher cycle rates, the Autoconer X5 type D can



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sanforlama

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At the beginning, compressive shrinking ranges or sanforizing ranges were known rather for the finishing of woven fabrics and particularly in the field of denim finishing. nation with felt calenders or felt belt compactors for the finishing of knitted fabric, too. ing line offers many possibilities to sanforize even highly sensitive knitwear to achieve a smoother touch, very low residual shrinkage values and to meet in the end the highest demands on quality. About one year ago, knitwear finishing to the german textile company Dolinschek in Burladingen, in the South of Germany. The challenge was among other things to connect the line regarding drives and safety technology to an already existing felt calender. For this purpose all motors of the fabric drives have been replaced and the safety technology has been adapted to the latest requirements. Behind the rubber belt unit the fabric is led via guide and scroll rollers into the felt calender. Subsequently the fabric is transported with low tension via


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a relaxation belt to the winding unit. In case of a working width of 2,00 m the line is operated depending on the type of fabric with a speed of up to 30 m/min. the fabric weights are between 50 and 300 g/m2. With this line Dolinschek finishes mainly sensitive knitted fabrics made of cotton, viscose, polyamide and polyester for underwear and outerwear. For the improvement of brightness and touch the fabric is sanforized with a BRÜCKNER The residual shrinkage values before sanforizing are between 8 and 12 % and after sanforizing they are - even for knitted fabric - between 5 and 0 %. With mere cotton articles it is really possible to reach residual shrinkage values of 0 %, articles with 3 - 4 % elastane can reach residual shrinkage values between 0 and 3 %. In case of viscose articles the residual shrinkage is normally between 2 and 4 %. The fact that BRÜCKNER develops, designs and manufactures all lines exclusively in Germany was also for the company owner, Theo Dolinschek, a very important criterion for his decision to buy BRÜCKNER. The modification had to take place in very short time to keep the production interruption as short as possible. This was possible due to the very good co-

operation between both companies. As worldwide leading producer of system solutions for the finishing of textiles and technical wovens, carpets and nonwovens, BRÜCKNER stands since decades for innovative power and technology competence. Dolinschek was founded in 1980 as textile cutting and wholesale company. At that time they supplied mainly to customers in the field of night, casual and children’s wear. After a reorganization of the company in 1997 they took over a dyehouse which was extended continuously in the following years. This allowed Dolinschek to extend also their range of articles considerably in the following years. In 2001 a move into the premises of a former textile factory in Burladingen came up and this is where the company is domiciled today with finishing, dyeing, warehouse, laboratory and administration. In these premises Dolinschek produces with three BRÜCKNER stenters, one sanforizing range, one relaxation dryer, one continuous washing machine and several dyeing machines made by Thies and with lines made by the company Today Dolinschek has about 100 employees and supplies to customers all over Europe and some even all around the globe.

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High Speed iplikler iรงin

The seal of approval -

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At the start of the year, three companies in the Turkish textile stronghold in and around Kahramanmaras were awarded globally recognised Belcoro certification by

belong to the exclusive club of companies able to supply certified yarns of the highest quality. For Beyteks Tekstil, which produces more than 20,000 tonnes of certified yarn



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a year, Belcoro is an integral part of its quality management. “Through Belcoro certification we show our customers that Beyteks manufactures yarns of high quality and also maintains this high quality level in the long term,” says Ali ment team. “The Belcoro seal of approval will thus become a permanent element of our marketing communications.” coro is above all a seal of quality for its high-

speed yarns. The company has been able to increase its productivity by 50% with Schlafhorst’s new Autocoro 8 rotor spinning machines. “We have benefited inestimably from the know-how transfer in the certification process,” says Yusuf Akarca, chairman of the company’s executive board. “We delight our customers with optimum quality that can be reproduced economically.” High speed and high quality are also important to Elif Iplik. The company manufactures 13,000 tonnes of viscose yarn annually and increased


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its productivity by 40% with the new Autocoro 8 machines. “We don’t want to just grow and achieve more economical production,” says the Belcoro signet on our packages and consignments we aim to signal to our customers and the market that our yarns are of outstanding premium quality. The Belcoro label is as important to us as an ISO certificate.” Belcoro yarns are much sought after by weaving and knitting mills the world over, as they can be

processed downstream smoothly and yield superb results. The reliability of the seal of approval is particularly valued because it is not the company, but each individual yarn grade that is tested and certified. Testing is carried out at a Schlafhorst laboratory accredited in accordance with DIN ISO 9001 and is based on definitively measurable quality criteria like tensile strength, elongation, uniformity and imperfections. Over 100 companies have been recognised by the award of the Belcoro seal of approval up to now.

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the winning formula machinery producers -

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The future is arriving fast, as Swiss companies focus on the plus factors for their customers: pioneering new applications and practical techcan communicate using radio waves, interacting with manufacturers, retailers and customers... ...a weaving system which produces 3D fabrics for aircraft... ...or a tiny plastic tube that halves energy use on a spinning machine... It takes a special kind of creativity to turn those imaginings into fact. A creative impetus born out of technological expertise, a bold innovative spirit and out-of-the-box thinking. Switzerland is where those concepts became reality: developments by world-leading textile -

al’ values prized by Swiss companies are the launchpad for future-oriented innovation. This creative power itself breeds success in the highly-competitive, globalised business environment of modern textiles, evidenced by repeated sales triumphs such as Benninger’s novel energy-saving finishing systems in the crucial Chinese market and the global acknowledgment of Uster technology as the major in-process solution for yarn quality assurance. Again, these success stories, and others from the Swiss textile machinery sector, can be traced directly to the creativity fostered in the individual companies. The national identity plays an important part here: customers of Swiss manufacturers expect high standards, in quality and durability, after-sales support and detailed product and market know-how. And, as a relatively


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small country with a limited domestic market for textile machines, Switzerland has of necessity developed a global outlook, through which its textile machinery producers have seen market success and innovative acclaim reaching a ativity + Success’ neatly expresses the essential factor behind this ongoing achievement. CREATIVITY: intelligent labels er in machinery for narrow fabric production – a relatively mature segment in which progress is Century is not afraid to take on a challenge that is very obviously revolutionary – although rooted in the firm’s inherent technical expertise. Textile RFID labeling is a new and exciting technology which opens up new possibilities from manufacturing to retail – and on to the final consumer. RFID (radio frequency identification) uses wireless electromagnetic fields to capture TexTrace has pioneered its application in woven labels. Its development and current market

fruition is testament to the strong creative force

new area, so the message is quite tough to get across,” he says. “But we regard this as an exciting and innovative future option, so we are ready for the challenge of making it work in a way that will convince the wider market.” With RFID labels sewn into a garment, bag or accessory, product information is coded securely throughout the manufacturing and retail cycle. The possibilities are virtually endless, covering theft, tracking and accurate stock control. At retail, customers can be offered an enhanced shopping experience, with interactive features such as automatic and instant matching of clothing items, and guidance on related selections.The product comprises a sewn-on label containing an RFID chip beneath a protective pad, with a specially-made, high-performance yarn which is interwoven during the label weaving process and forms the required antenna. sees the potential as virtually limitless.

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CREATIVITY: new dimensions in technical fabrics Aerospace and textiles: A combination that would probably not come immediately to ber of other Swiss textile machinery companies now actively providing manufacturing solutions for this most technically demanding of industry

and weaving preparation technology, with an unrivaled track record of market success. Innate creativity has extended its reach into dramatically different fields. Robotics is one, now company’s textile operation, headquartered at Sargans, is also flexing its creative muscles.

Drawing on existing expertise within the group, activity, the demand for three-dimensional fabrics for specialized technical textiles end-uses has been a key driver of progress. The Alpha 400 of the woven carpet machines, it also draws on multilayer fabrics in 3D. Suppliers to aircraft makers need to observe the toughest standards of quality and consistency to win and retain orders, so this machine has been precisely engineered to guarantee top performance. The key is precise control of warp threads in each fabric layer, to ensure a carefully structured fabric which meets the requirements of final custom-



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Weft Selector broadens its scope further by allowing insertion of multiple different wefts at the top and bottom fabric. Quantum leap technolgeneration of automatic drawing-in machines, SAFIR S30. A tenfold performance increase in preparation of filament warps is achieved in industrial operation. “Active control of warp and novations across all our product ranges,” states CREATIVITY: energy saved in spinning How to save energy? It’s a major headache for textile producers worldwide. Both the cost and actual availability of power is problematical, depending on the market area, and it is clear that creative thinking is needed to provide solutions that give practical help to the mills.

Rieter, one of the world leaders in textile yarn technology, has responded with an innovation that is physically small but with a potentially enormous impact on spinning costs. The suction tube ECOrized is an ingenious, yet simple invention. In ring spinning, suction tubes are only sporadically, to clear tangles and remove ends-down. With a single piece of creative thinking, Rieter specialists came up with a tube with a closed flap, which opens – and therefore consumes energy – only when an excess of material is presented by the drafting system, indicating a problem. Suction tube ECOrized is the name of this breakthrough product, and it means each spinning position needs 50% less energy, if conventional tubes are replaced with the ECOrized type. With an adjustable inverter control, the suction tubes ECOrized can be op-



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timized for energy savings and process efficiency, as many of Rieter’s spinning mill partners are already discovering. Says Edda Walraf, Vice-

creative impetus at the heart of the next development, responding to, and amplifying the market success of the clearers. The new-generation USTER Quantum Expert 3 gives users full control of their entire winding operation, including, as

Spun Yarn Systems: “ECOrized conversion can offer payback within a year, after which the full impact of the energy savings will kick in.” SUCCESS: optimizing of quality data With sales totaling over half a million, Uster Technologies already has a proven market success with the latest USTER Quantum 3 yarn clearers, providing in-line fault detection and quality control in automatic winding after ring spinning. But the company was keen to extend the functionality of the yarn clearing process, as well as offering users a simple, quick and effective way to apply clearer data to achieve genuine quality and productivity benefits. Naturally, there was a

whole range of spinning mill decision-making. USTER Quantum Expert 3 takes maximum advantage of the data generated by the USTER Quantum 3 clearers, turning the data into clear advice on essential quality and cost isBody’ concept – an instant view of any potential faults – and a focus on identifying single rogue bobbins, or outliers, help spinners to adjust yarn clearer settings to reach an optimum balance between fault removal and keeping machines running at a productive rate. USTER Quantum Expert 3 shows all this in an easy-



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to-view format, with remote access when required. Feedback from spinners suggests that the partnership between clearers and expert system helps them produce exactly the right yarn quality their customers demand, without adversely impacting on the mill’s profitability. SUCCESS: Chinese investment in novel finishing system Success in textile machinery today is often judged by a company’s impact in the Chinese market, the biggest potential customer in many processing branches. That is what makes Benninger’s work with Guangdong Esquel Co. especially significant. One of China’s – and the world’s – largest textile and clothing producers, Esquel has underlined Benninger’s credentials in open-width finishing of knitgoods by investing in a complete range. Dyeing and bleaching, as well as washing and mercerizing technology for knitwear are now installed at Esquel’s Gaoming

plant, making it the first Chinese customer to operate a total Benninger system for knits. Benninger developed the Trikoflex technology in response to customer demands for significant savings in both water and steam consumption. Specially-designed rollers, controlled fabric tension and novel washing compartments enable the system to process at maximum washing efficiency. These creative innovations have taken the finishing of knitted fabric in open-width format to a new level. The result is 50% lower energy use than with conventional exhaust processing equipment. Quality benefits are also reported, with improvements in dimensional stability, hairiness and fastness levels. “Sustainability and energy savings are very important to Esquel, so the choice of the Trikoflex washing range is ideal,” says Benninger CEO Gerhard Huber. Esquel uses the Trikoflex range for soaping after jet dyeing and washing after cold pad-batch processes, as well as for softening and finishing.



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Cotton Market Fundamentals & Price Outlook

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while the CC Index decreased in early April.

been trading at levels around 90 cents/lb recently, nearly equal to values one month ago. ues around 80 cents/lb over the past month. April, falling from the levels near 98 cents/lb ex-

since the onset of the 2012/13 crop year, dropping 3.8% with the decrease in the government-mandated reserve auction price from 142 to 137 cents/lb). been stable in both international (near 89 cents/ lb) and domestic terms (near 42,000 INR/candy). -


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SUPPLY, DEMAND, & TRADE In the USDA’s latest monthly report, there were minor changes to global production and consumption figures. The world harvest estimate decreased only 60,000 bales, from 116.7 to 116.6 million. Country-level revisions were for the U.S. (-320,000 bales, to 12.8 million), Brazil (+100,000 bales, to 7.5 million), and Burkina Faso (+100,000 bale, to 1.2 million). The world consumption figure increased 240,000 bales, from 109.2 million to 109.5 million. Among the largest country-level changes to mill-use were those for India (-350,000 bales, to 23.0 million) With an assumption of additional import quota being released in China, the 2013/14 Chinese import forecast rose 1.0 million bales (to 12.0 bales, to 2.5 million) and Vietnam (+100,000 bales, to 3.0 million) also increased, while projections were lowered for India (-350,000 bales, to 750,000 bales) and Indonesia (-100,000 bales, to 2.7 million). Export forecasts for Australia (+700,000 bales, to 4.5 million), India (+500,000 bales, to 8.0 million), and Burkina Faso (+100,000 bales, to 1.2 million) were all revised


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higher. No changes were made to the U.S. export figure, but the reduction in the U.S. crop estimate caused U.S. ending stocks to decrease 320,000 bales (to 2.5 million). At its current level, U.S. ending stocks are expected to reach their lowest level since 1990/91. Since the U.S. is the world’s largest exporter, tightness in U.S. supply could support prices until the 2014/15 harvest becomes available. Next month’s report features the USDA’s first complete set of estimates for the upcoming crop year and should provide an indication of how U.S. stocks, as well as stocks in other countries outside of China, could be re-built with the 2014/15 harvest. The extent that stocks in the U.S. and other countries increase should influence how low world prices may decrease next crop year. PRICE OUTLOOK The Chinese government made a series of revisignificant were the changes declared for the way the government supports its cotton growers. It was announced that the system based on guaranteed prices enforced by reserve system purchases will be eliminated. Replacing


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this system is a new program based on target prices. Under the new support structure, gins will report prices for the lint they sell in order to establish an average market price. When this market price is below the target, the government compensates growers for the difference. An important element of the new system is it facilitates the flow of fiber from field to mill and allows for market prices below guaranteed level. The initial target price was set at 19,800 reserve-based system in 2012/13 and 2013/14. However, since the subsidies are paid directly to producers, it has been reported that certain growers may enjoy higher incomes under the new system. Details specifying the geographic coverage of the new system have not been released, but it appears that subsidies will not be universal and will initially only be offered in Xinjiang province. If no support is offered to other growing regions, steep declines in acreage could be expected in those areas. In addition to the reforms announced with respect to production, changes were also made to the auctions that sell cotton from reserves. The price for cotton sold was lowered

cents/lb at current exchange rates). In addition to the change in prices, incentives to move cotton from reserves were created. One of these is a ratio tying newly granted import quota to mill purchases from reserves, which allow one ton of sliding-scale quota to be issued for every four tons of reserves purchased. With reserve prices above international rates, this ratio allows mills some opportunity to lower average costs while encouraging the movement of cotton out of government warehouses. By facilitating a more direct flow of cotton from Chinese growers to Chinese mills and by incentivizing purchases from reserves, recent reforms appear to emphasize increased use of domestically available supply. With more domestic cotton available, the question of how much less China might import in coming crop years is likely the most important demandrelated uncertainty for the global cotton market. From the supply-side, there are significant weather-related questions, particularly how the on-going drought in the southwestern U.S. may result in abandonment and yield loss. In combination, these two issues will affect the extent that stocks outside of China are re-built in the coming crop year, and therefore how far global cotton prices could decrease.


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tekstil ve konfeksiyon sektörünün Türkiye

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öneminin dirilmesi

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