Svečinske gorice by Turistično društvo Svečina

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine 5 Vaš brezplačni izvod – oktober, november | Your personal copy – October, November 2014

SVEČINSKE GORICE The Svečina Hills GEOCACHING Geocaching TADŽIKISTAN Tajikistan

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine Brezplačen izvod / Your personal copy Revija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine je namenjena potnikom na poletih z Adrio Airways. Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine is complimentary on Adria Airways ﬂights. Izdajatelj / Publisher: Adria Airways, Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d. Adria Airways, The Airline of Slovenia Zgornji Brnik 130 h 4210 Brnik – Aerodrom

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Alenka Dvoršak Tel. / Phone: + 386 (0)4 259 4526 E- mail: alenka.dvorsak@adria.si Naslovnica / Cover: Matevž Lenarčič Oblikovanje in AD / Design and AD: IDEARNA d.o.o.

48 Prevod / Translated by: Amidas d. o. o. Lektorica / Proofreader: Vera Samohod Fotoliti / Photolithography: HiFi Color Studio Tisk / Printed by: Gorenjski tisk storitve d. o. o. ISSN 1318-0789

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Vsebina Contents 24.

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ADRIJIN POTNIK / ADRIA PASSENGER

Andrej Pečjak

RAZVIJALEC ELEKTRIČNIH AVTOMOBILOV DEVELOPER OF ELECTRIC VEHICLES MARJAN ŽIBERNA

RAFAEL MARN

DESTINACIJA BRUSELJ

ŠKLIP, ŠKLAP, KLAPAVICE  NA NAJBOLJŠE ŠKOLJKE V BRUSELJ!

DESTINATION BRUSSELS

FOR THE BEST MUSSELS… COME TO BRUSSELS!

DAMIJAN JAGODIC

DAMIJAN JAGODIC, SHUTTERSTOCK

58. SEJEM POD KROŠNJAMI KOSTANJEV ANTIQUES FAIR UNDER THE SPREADING CHESTNUTS MATEJA A. HRASTAR

64. NE SEZUVAJ SE DOKLER NE PRIDEŠ DO VODE Portret kiparja Jakova Brdarja DON'T TAKE YOUR SHOES OFF UNTIL YOU REACH THE WATER A portrait of the sculptor Jakov Brdar MATJAŽ POTOKAR

34.

YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT! Trubar and Protestant food MATJAŽ POTOKAR

38. 48.

PETER IRMAN

D. POTOKAR

70. TARTUFI – DIAMANTI KUHINJ TRUFFLES  THE DIAMONDS OF THE KITCHEN MATJAŽ POTOKAR

SI TO, KAR JEŠ! Trubar in protestantska hrana

IZTOK DIMC

D. POTOKAR, PROFIMEDIA

76. KO STOPIŠ STO LET NAZAJ V PRETEKLOST Muzejska delavnica Pasarstvo Tratnik STEP BACK 100 YEARS INTO THE PAST Tratnik Belt-Maker's Workshop and Museum JOŽE BALAS

SVEČINSKE GORICE

THE SVEČINA HILLS

MARJAN ŽIBERNA DOMEN GRÖGL

82. POGLED OD ZGORAJ A VIEW FROM ABOVE ALEŠ FEVŽER

GEOCACHING, ISKANJE ZAKLADOV

GEOCACHING MARJAN ŽIBERNA

DOMEN GRÖGL

88. TADŽIKISTAN V Vakanskem koridorju TAJIKISTAN In the Wakhan Corridor STANKA JELENC

038

Svečinske gorice BESEDILO: MARJAN ŽIBERNA FOTOGRAFIJE: DOMEN GRÖGL

SVEČINSKE GORICE

ČE BI TRDIL, DA SEM, KO NANESE BESEDA NA SVEČINO IN OKOLI NJE RAZPROSTIRAJOČE SE VINSKE GORICE, NEPRISTRANSKI, BI BILA TO TOLSTA LAŽ. OZIROMA ZMOTA. OD TAM JE PAČ DOMA MOJA NINA, ZATO BI SE MI TI KRAJI VERJETNO ZDELI LEPI, PA ČE BI IMELA NARAVA TAKRAT, KO JIH JE OBLIKOVALA, ŠE TAKO SLAB DAN. NO, LAŽ ALI ZMOTA STA MI KLJUB TEMU PRIHRANJENI. SVEČINA, ODDALJENA OD MA RIBORA LE SLABE ČETRT URE VOŽNJE, JE PREPROSTO LEPA. NE GLEDE NA TO, ČE VAS KAJ VEŽE NANJO ALI NE. ZADNJA LETA SE NA MNOGIH FOTOGRAFIJAH, KI SKUŠAJO POKAZATI, KAKO PRIVLAČNA JE SLOVENIJA, NAHAJA PRAV ZNAMENITO SVEČINSKO SRCE  CESTA, KI ZAVIJUGA MED TAMKAJŠNJIMI GORICAMI IN TVORI, ČE POGLEDATE NANJO Z DOLOČENEGA MESTA, VSE BOLJ ZNANO PODOBO SRCA. LE DA NA RAHLO NEJEVOLJO SICER PONOSNIH DOMAČINOV NI PRAV VELIKO LJUDI, KI VEDO, KJE SE TO SRCE PRAVZAPRAV NAHAJA.

Zato pa jih vse več pozna svečinska vina; ta so v zadnjem desetletju ali dveh zelo pridobila na slovesu. To se mi je posvetilo že pred leti, ko sem delal intervju z slovenskim nevrokirurgom svetovnega slovesa. Ko sva po »uradnem« delu prešla na neobvezen klepet, je potem, ko sem mu začel na dolgo razlagati, kje da je Svečina, samo pokimal, rekoč: »Seveda vem, kje je. Tam imajo dobra vina.« Zadnja leta so ti kraji res vse bolj znani po kvalitetnih vinih, med katerimi prevladujejo bela – renski in laški rizling, sivi pinot, silvanec, rumeni muškat … Tu že več kot 30 let konec septembra prirejajo kmečki praznik, in če je vreme kolikor toliko prijazno, lahko slišite narečja, ki pričajo o tem, da so se Bakhusu, bogu vina, prišli spoštljivo priklonit tudi ljudje, ki so morali prepotovali lep kos poti. In si prišli ogledat tudi kronanje nove svečinske vinske kraljice, ki jo razglasijo vsako drugo leto. Ta seveda enako dobro ve, kako ravnati s trto in vinom kot tudi s svojim kraljem – viničarjem, saj brez tega sodelovanja njuno vino nikakor ne bi moglo imeti tako žlahtnega okusa. Da so Svečinčani tudi lepo označeno pešpot med svojimi goricami poimenovali kar Vinotour, torej ne more biti presenečenje. Pri čemer

lahko izbirate med tremi različicami; dolge so od 11 do 24 kilometrov, kar pa ne pove ničesar o času, ki vam ga bo izbrana različica vzela. Povsem mogoče, da bo minilo več ur, ko boste ugotovili, da je za vami le polovica načrtovane poti, a da vas to pravzaprav nič kaj posebej ne vznemirja; skušnjav, ki se jim zlahka vdate, vinskih kleti, med potjo ne manjka. Domačini so pot, kot pravijo, namenili predvsem tistim, ki radi vzamejo v roke palice za nordijsko hojo. Ob čemer se čilemu človeku čvrstih nog in zdravih pljuč, ki zlahka hiti brez kakršnekoli opore gor in dol med vinogradi, usta kaj hitro zakrivijo v rahlem posmehu. A se lahko že kmalu izkaže, da bi mu prišle še kako prav. Pri vinu bi se moral človek pač držati naprej; če se drži nazaj, lahko ob vsakem požirku le začuden ugotavlja, s kakšno lahkoto teče po grlu. Še posebej, če je to podmazano s katero od kmečkih dobrot, ki jih ponujajo vinogradniki ob poti. Povsem mogoče, da bi ob tem vaš izbrani zdravnik in osebni nutricionist zgrožena zmajevala z glavo, a če postavimo na eno stran tehtnice tisto, kar je dobro za dolgoročno zdravje, na drugo pa tisto, zaradi česar vam srce kar takoj prešerno zaigra, potem je zmagovalec znan. Prav zato vam utegnejo

UGANDA

SVEČINSKE GORICE

KVALITETA PAČ ZAHTEVA TRADICIJO IN TUKAJŠNJA VINOREJA JO SEVEDA IMA. KAKO STARA JE, NIHČE NE VE ZAGOTOVO, A SODEČ PO ZAPISIH O PRODAJI VINOGRADOV JE NJENA BRADA ŽE ZELO DOLGA. sredi Svečinskih goric naenkrat priti še kako prav pomožne nordijske »noge«, za katere bi še malo prej prisegli, da so le za ljudi opešanih mišic in slabotnih src. Svečinčani so na svoja vina upravičeno ponosni, radi pa opomnijo tudi na svojo zgodovino. Že v rimskem času naj bi tod čez potekala pot, ki je povezovala območje današnje osrednje Slovenije z avstrijsko Štajersko ter vodila dalje proti Dunaju. Leta 1270 se je ime Svečina prvič pojavilo v nemških oz. latinskih pisnih listinah; v srednjem veku so njeno ime zapisovali kot Witschein ali Wetschina. Prav proti koncu tega obdobja, leta 1490, se je rodil daleč najpomembnejši Svečinčan, Andrej Perlach. Bil je eden od vsestranskih ljudi svojega časa, mož širokega znanja in zanimanj. Na dunajski univerzi, kjer je več kot 30 let služboval kot profesor, je najprej študiral matematiko, ki jo je skupaj z astronomijo poučeval na tamkajšnji ﬁlozofski fakulteti. Potem ko je leta 1530 doktoriral iz medicine, je predaval na medicinski fakulteti. Kar petkrat je bil njen dekan, leta 1549, dve leti pred smrtjo, pa so ga imenovali za rektorja dunajske univerze. Perlach, ki je izdeloval zapletene astronomke naprave, je poleg astronomskih letopisov pisal tudi o problematiki kuge, ki je v tem obdobju morila po Evropi. Njegova v latinščini napisna navodila, kako se zaščititi pred njo, se niso ohranila in dolgo se je zdelo, da bo sčasoma povsem zbledel tudi spomin nanj. V zadnjem času postopno vendarle pridobiva

mesto, ki si ga je s svojim delom zaslužil. V vaškem jedru Svečine za zdaj priča o njem obeležje na cerkvi sv. Andreja, v prihodnosti pa bo Perlach, ki je bil tudi eden prvih slovenskih astronomov, morda dobil še kakšen pomnik. Tako kot ga je tukajšnja tradicija pred nekaj leti dobila s Keblom, manjšim vinogradniškim muzejem, ki stoji na griču tik ob meji z Avstrijo. Nastal je s preureditvijo kakih 200 let stare kmečke hiše. Ta je po svojem videzu resda pravo nasprotje spodaj v vasi stoječega gradu iz zgodnjega 17. stoletja, zato pa toliko bolje prikazuje, na čem temelji današnje znanje Svečinčanov v pridelovanju vin. Kvaliteta pač zahteva tradicijo in tukajšnja »vinoreja« jo seveda ima. Kako stara je, nihče ne ve zagotovo, a sodeč po zapisih o prodaji vinogradov je njena brada že zelo dolga. Za prelomno obdobje pa velja prva polovica 19. stoletja. Tedaj je začel nadvojvoda Janez, namestnik habsburškega cesarja, na območju tedanje južne Štajerske – ta se razprostira na obeh straneh slovensko-avstrijske meje – modernizirati vinogradništvo. Uvajal je vrhunske sorte trte iz Porenja in poskrbel za prenos tamkajšnjega znanja. To domačini danes še vedno dobro vedo. Vam pa, ko se proti jutru radostno in s pesmijo na ustih odpravljate proti domu iz katere od njihovih kleti, tega ni treba vedeti. No, vsaj jaz tega nisem vedel, ko sem tako jutranje odhajanje izkusil prvič. Pa tudi če bi mi to takrat kdo na dolgo in široko razložil, ne bi ostalo nič na lukenj polnem rešetu mojega spomina … 43

The Svečina Hills TEXT: MARJAN ŽIBERNA PHOTOGRAPHS: DOMEN GRÖGL

IF I WERE TO CLAIM TO BE IMPARTIAL WHEN THE CONVERSATION TURNS TO SVEČINA AND THE VINEYARDCOVERED HILLS THAT SURROUND IT, THAT WOULD BE A LIE. OR AT ANY RATE A MISTAKE. SVEČINA IS WHERE NINA, MY OTHER HALF, COMES FROM, SO THE AREA WOULD PROBABLY STILL SEEM BEAUTIFUL TO ME EVEN IF MOTHER NATURE HAD DESIGNED IT ON ONE OF HER BAD DAYS. AS IT HAPPENS, THOUGH, THERE IS NO NEED FOR A LIE AND NO ROOM FOR A MISTAKE. SVEČINA, JUST UNDER A QUARTER OF AN HOUR'S DRIVE FROM MARIBOR, IS SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL. WHETHER OR NOT YOU HAVE ANY CONNECTION WITH IT. IN RECENT YEARS MANY PHOTOGRAPHS THAT ATTEMPT TO DEMONSTRATE HOW ATTRACTIVE SLOVENIA IS HAVE FEATURED THE FAMOUS SVEČINA HEART  A ROAD WINDING THROUGH THE LOCAL HILL VINEYARDS THAT, WHEN VIEWED FROM A PARTICULAR VANTAGE POINT, FORMS A PERFECT HEART SHAPE. AN IMAGE THAT IS BECOMING INCREASINGLY WELL KNOWN, ALTHOUGH  RATHER TO THE ANNOYANCE OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE AREA, WHO ARE PROUD OF IT  FEW PEOPLE KNOW WHERE THIS HEART IS ACTUALLY LOCATED.

THE SVEČINA HILLS

But more and more people do know about the wines of the Svečina Hills, whose reputation has increased greatly over the last decade or two. This was brought vividly home to me a couple of years ago when I was interviewing a world-famous Slovene neurosurgeon. We had finished our "official" interview and were enjoying an informal chat. At one point I embarked on a lengthy explanation of where Svečina is and he simply nodded and said: "Of course I know where it is. They have good wines there." And it's true: in recent years this part of the world has become increasingly well known for its quality wines, for the most part whites – Rheinriesling, Welschriesling, Pinot gris, Silvaner, Muscat, and others. A country fair has been held here at the end of September for more than 30 years and if the weather is more or less fine you can hear dialects and accents that prove that people have travelled quite some way to pay their respects to Bacchus, the god of wine. And to see the coronation of the new Svečina Wine Queen, who is proclaimed every two years. The wine queen is as adept at handling vine and wine as she is at managing her "king" – the winegrower – since without this cooperation their wine could certainly not have such a noble taste. It should be no surprise, then, to learn that the inhabitants of Svečina have named the well-marked footpath that leads through their vineyards the "Vinotour". There are three variants to choose from, ranging from 11 to 24 kilometres in length, although this tells you nothing about the time needed to complete your chosen variant. It is perfectly possible to realise, after several hours have gone by, that only half of your planned route is behind you, although actually this need not be a cause for particular concern, since there is no shortage of temptations along the route – in the form of wine cellars – to which it is all to easy to succumb.

The locals say that the path is mainly aimed at Nordic walking enthusiasts. Which, if you are a fit individual with strong legs and healthy lungs, perfectly capable of striding through vineyards without walking poles for support, may cause your mouth to curl into a derisive smile. You may soon realise, however, that walking poles can come in very handy indeed. When it comes to wine, you should in fact lean forwards; if you follow the advice of the old saying and lean back, you will be surprised just how easily it slides down the throat, one swallow after another. Especially if helped along by a sample of the local specialities that the winegrowers offer along the way. It is entirely possible that your doctor and personal nutritionist will shake their heads in horror at this, but if we place on the other side of the scale something that is acknowledged to be good for long-term health and something that immediately causes your heart to leap with joy, then the victor is clear. This is why that auxiliary pair of Nordic "legs" – which a little earlier you would have sworn were only for the feeble of muscle and weak of heart – might suddenly come in very handy in the middle of the Svečina Hills. The people of Svečina are rightly proud of their wines. They also like to remind visitors of their history. It is said that even in Roman times a road linking present-day central Slovenia to Austrian Styria (and leading on towards Vienna) passed through here. Svečina first appears in German (or rather Latin) documents in the year 1270. In the Middle Ages its name was written as Witschein or Wetschina. It was towards the end of this period, in 1490, that Svečina's most prominent native son, Andreas Perlach, was born. He was one of the polymaths of his day, a man of wide learning and interests. At the University of Vienna, where he served as a professor for more than 30 years, he first studied mathematics and then taught it together with

THE SVEČINA HILLS

QUALITY IN FACT REQUIRES TRADITION, AND THIS IS SOMETHING THAT WINEMAKING UNDOUBTEDLY HAS IN THESE PARTS. HOW OLD THAT TRADITION IS, NO ONE KNOWS FOR CERTAIN, BUT JUDGING FROM RECORDS OF THE SALE OF VINEYARDS IT IS ALREADY A VENERABLE ONE. astronomy at the School of Humanities. In 1530 he received a doctorate in medicine and began teaching at the Faculty of Medicine. He served as Dean of the Faculty ﬁve times and in 1549, two years before his death, was appointed Rector of the University. Perlach invented complex astronomical devices and wrote astronomical almanacs. He also wrote on the subject of the plague, which in that period was sweeping across Europe. His instructions, written in Latin, on how to protect oneself against the plague have not survived, and for a long time it appeared that Perlach was destined to be entirely forgotten. Recently, however, he has gradually begun to occupy the place that he undoubtedly deserves. Today a commemorative plaque can be seen in the church of St Andrew in the old centre of Svečina, and it is hoped that in the future Perlach, who is also regarded as one of Slovenia's ﬁrst astronomers, may also be honoured by another monument. Just as the local winemaking tradition was a few years ago with the opening of the Kebl Vineyard Museum, which stands on a hill next to the Austrian border. The museum was created by converting a 200-year-old farmhouse. In terms of its appearance it is the exact opposite of the early-seventeenthcentury castle in the village below, but this means that it serves all the better to illustrate the basis of the present-day winemaking expertise of the people of Svečina. Quality in fact requires tradition, and this is something 46

that winemaking undoubtedly has in these parts. How old that tradition is, no one knows for certain, but judging from records of the sale of vineyards it is already a venerable one. The first half of the nineteenth century was a turning point. It was then that Archduke John of Austria, the imperial regent, began to modernise viticulture in Lower Styria – which at that time extended on both sides of the Slovenia-Austria border. He introduced the finest grape varieties from the Rhineland, along with the area's winegrowing expertise. This is something that the people of the Svečina Hills have conserved to the present day. But as you set off home in the early hours of the morning from one of the local wine cellars – cheerfully, and with a song on your lips – you do not need to know this. Or at least I didn't the first time I set out on this early morning walk. Mind you, even if someone had explained it to me at great length and in great detail, my sieve-like memory would have retained little or nothing of it.

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