TCW july 2013

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is a great pairing for road kill — not too attractive. The name is a kind of carrion baggage; who would want a wine named after a bird that feasts on dead animals? The problem goes away if the name of the wine is pronounced (as it should be) in Italian — (VOOL-too-ray). Much more palatable. The carrion connection comes from the extinct volcano, Monte Vulture. It’s the volcano that gives the wine its character. It blessed the land below it with rich, dark, free-draining soils. Aglianico del Vulture wine is rich and powerful. It requires a few years of cellaring before it’s ready to drink. The best structured, most balanced examples improve for more than a decade in the bottle. When young, the wines are noted for their high tannins and acidity, and dark fruit concentration. As they mature, they take on nuances of earth, tar, spice and dark chocolate, emerging as complex and refined reds showing balance and depth. These characteristics are very similar to a much more famous wine. Aglianico del Vulture is often referred

to as the “Barolo of the South,” and right there is a clue to how good this wine is. Barolo, from the Piemonte region in the northwestern corner of Italy, is one of the country’s most prestigious wines, and commands a price commensurate with its fame. With Aglianico del Vulture, you’re getting a “Barolo of the South” without putting the hurt on your wallet. That works for me!

Well Heeled Head toward the east and you end up in Puglia. One of my favorite wines from Puglia is a wine from an area called Salice Salentino (SAH-le-chay Sahl-ehnTEEN-oh).This is a wine that absolutely fits the definition of a “Tuesday-nightpizza-wine.” It is around $10, and pairs perfectly with a casual meal like pizza. The major grape in Salice Salentino wines is Negroamaro, which translates to “black and bitter.” The wine’s rough edge is just the ticket to balance the richness of pizza. Because Salice Salentino wines can be extremely tannic, DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) regulations allow

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for the addition of up to 20 percent Malvasia Nera grapes, which soften the wine’s tannins a little and add aromatic qualities. The wines of Salice Salentino are fruit forward. They have a hint of spice to them and a bit of sweetness from the ripeness of the fruit. There are lots of lush cherry and red berry flavors. And, of course, there’s that nice, rough, rustic edge. These are not deep, profound wines, but they are great for a casual, midweek meal. Wine is so neat. There’s so much to explore and taste. The more you explore, the more great wines you find and, if you get off the beaten track, you can come up with some great values like these gems from the south of Italy. What could be better than that? Bring on the pizza!

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