Impressions of amman by Jabal Amman

A collection of watercolour paintings of the present-day city of Amman by British artist Peter Lawrence with comtemporary written impressions by prominent residents of the city, Jordanian and non-Jordanian, who paint their own pictures for the reader. A rich tapestry emerges.

ٌ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺎﺋﻴﺔ ﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺒﺮﻳﻄﺎﻧﻲ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻓﻲ اﻟﺤﺎﺿﺮ ﺑﺮﻳﺸﺔ اﻟﻔﻨﺎن‬ ‫ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻠﻮﺣﺎت ﺑﺎﻷﻟﻮان‬ ُ ٌ ٌ ّ ‫اﻟﺸﺨﺼﻴﺎت اﻟﻤﺮﻣﻮﻗﺔ‬ ‫اﻧﻄﺒﺎﻋﺎت ﻋﺪ ٍد ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻣﻌﺎﺻﺮة ﻋﻦ‬ ‫ ﺗﺮاﻓﻘﻬﺎ ﻛﺘﺎﺑﺎت‬،‫ﭘﻴﺘﺮ ﻟﻮرﻧﺲ‬ ِ ِ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﺗﺴﻜﻦ‬ ٌ ً ُ ُ ‫اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ‫ﻧﺴﻴﺞ‬ .‫ذﻫﻨﻴﺔ ﻟﺪى اﻟﻘﺎرئ‬ ‫ﺻﻮرا‬ ‫ﺗﺮﺳﻢ‬ ،‫ ﻣﻦ أردﻧﻴﻴﻦ وﻏﻴﺮ أردﻧﻴﻴﻦ‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ٌ ُ ّ ّ َ !‫ﺛﺮي ﻣﺰدان ﺑﺎﻷﻟﻮان واﻟﺼﻮ ر‬

Left: Through a Jacaranda Window

ّ ‫ ﻋﺒﺮ ﻧﺎﻓﺬﺓ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬ ‫ﺗﻄﻞ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺷﺠﺮﺓ ﺟﺎﻛﺮﻧﺪﺍ‬

Impressions of Amman © Jabal Amman Publishers, Peter Lawrence, 2012. Original Artwork © Peter Lawrence. All Rights reserved including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any from. First published in English & Arabic in 2012 by Jabal Amman Publishers P.O. 3062, Amman 11181, Jordan. Tel. +962 6 4645559 Production Manager: Lina Sawaqedy Art Director: Tareq Khoury Designer: Helen Zaour Arabic Editor: Wathiq Haddadin English Editor: Lis Lawrence Translator: Issam Khoury All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means – electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or any other – except for brief quotations in printed reviews, without prior permission of the publisher.

َّ ‫ﻋﻤ‬ َّ ‫ﺎﻧﻴﺎت‬ ‫م‬٢٠١٢ ‫اﻟﻄﺒﻌﺔ اﻹﻧﻜﻠﺰﻴﻳﺔ واﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ اﻷو‬ ‫ﺣﻘﻮق اﻟﻄﺒﻊ ﺤﻣﻔﻮﻇﺔ‬ َّ ‫ﺟﺒﻞ ﻋﻤﺎن ﻧﺎﺮﺷون‬ َّ ،٣٠٦٢ .‫ب‬.‫ص‬ ‫ اﻻردن‬،١١١٨١ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ +٩٦٢ ٦ ٤٦٤٥٥٥٩ :‫ﻫﺎﺗﻒ‬ +٩٦٢ ٦ ٥٦٣٩ ٧٦٨ :‫ﻓﺎﻛﺲ‬ email: info@japublishers.com www.japublishers.com

‫ أو ﺨﺗﺰﻳﻨﻪ‬،‫ أو أي ﺟﺰء ﻣﻨﻪ‬،‫ ﻻ ﻳﺴﻤﺢ ﺑﺈﺨدة إﺻﺪار ﻫﺬا اﻟﻜﺘﺎب‬،‫ﻤﺟﻴﻊ اﺤﻟﻘﻮق ﺤﻣﻔﻮﻇﺔ‬ ‫ دون إذن‬،‫ أو اﺳﺘﻨﺴﺎﺧﻪ ﺑﺄي ﺷﻞﻜ ﻣﻦ اﻷﺷﺎﻜل‬،‫ﻲﻓ ﻧﻄﺎق اﺳﺘﻌﺎدة اﻤﻟﻌﻠﻮﻣﺎت أو ﻧﻘﻠﻬﺎ‬

.‫ﺧﻄﻲ ﻣﺴﺒﻖ ﻣﻦ اﺠﺎﺮﺷ‬

٢٠١٢ / ٥ / ١٨٠١ :‫رﻗﻢ اﻹﻳﺪاع‬ ISBN 978-9957-539-09-2

Acknowledgements Jabal Amman Publishers and Peter Lawrence express their personal thanks to Mohammad AR Jardaneh for his generous support to the publishing of this book about the city in which he grew up, pursued a variety of businesses, participated in the development of, supported socially and charitably and loves as his family's home. We express our sincere thanks for the support and encouragement of our sponsors: Gold Sponsors Greater Amman Municipality The Good Book Shop Silver Sponsors Ministry of Culture HSBC Bank al Etihad To all other sponsors and supporting companies we are grateful for your recognition of the signiﬁcance of this work and for your encouragement in its production. Ministry of Tourism Naouri Group PricewaterhouseCoopers (PWC) American Centre of Oriental Research (ACOR) Al Karma Investments Dozan Wa Awtar

Right: Darat Al Funun I Next page: Amman, City of 7 Hills

١ ‫ ﺩﺍﺭﺓ ﺍﻟﻔﻨﻮﻥ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬ ‫ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﻼﻝ ﺍﻟﺴﺒﻌﺔ‬-‫ ﻋ ّﻤﺎﻥ‬:‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

This book is dedicated to the people of Amman َّ ‫ﻫﺬا اﻟﻜﺘﺎب ُﻣﻬﺪى إﻰﻟ أﻫﻞ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬

Amman's Roman theatre sits beneath its Citadel as one of the city's most impressive monuments… to enjoy a friend's company on the terraces by day and imagine the many centuries that this theatre has entertained the city is a relaxing experience. To enjoy a modern performance in these majestic surroundings is awe-inspiring.

Roman Theatre Previous page: King Hussein Mosque

ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺪرج‬ ‫اﻷﺛﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻛﻮاﺣﺪ ﻣﻦ أﻛﺜـﺮ اﻟﻤﻌﺎﻟﻢ‬ ‫اﻟﺮوﻣﺎﻧﻲ ﻓﻲ أﺳـﻔﻞ ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﻘﻠﻌـﺔ‬ ‫ﻳﻘـﻊ‬ ٍ ً ‫ اﻟﺠﻠﻮس ﺑﺼﺤﺒﺔ ﺻﺪﻳﻖ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺪرﺟﺎت ﻓﻲ اﻟﻨﻬﺎر‬...‫ﻓـﻲ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ إﺛﺎرة ﻟﻺﻋﺠﺎب‬ َ ّ ‫وﺗﺨﻴﻞ اﻟﻘﺮون اﻟﻌﺪﻳﺪة اﻟﺘﻲ أﻣﺘﻊ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﺴـﺮح اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻳُﻌﺪ ﺗﺠﺮﺑﺔ ﺗﺪﻋﻮك‬

.‫ ﻛﻤﺎ أن اﻻﺳﺘﻤﺘﺎع ﺑﻌﺮوض ﺣﺪﻳﺜﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬه اﻷﺟﻮاء اﻟﻤﻬﻴﺒﺔ أﻣﺮ ﻣﺬﻫﻞ‬.‫ﻟﻼﺳﺘﺮﺧﺎء‬

‫ﺍﻟﺮﻭﻣﺎﻧﻲ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﺍﻟﻤﺪﺭﺝ‬ ‫ ﻣﺴﺠﺪ ﺍﻟﻤﻠﻚ ﺣﺴﻴﻦ‬:‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺴﺎﺑﻘﺔ‬

ُ َّ ‫ﻠﻛﻤﺔ أﻣﺎﻧﺔ ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﻜﺮﺒى‬

Greater Amman Municipality

Greater Amman Municipality is pleased to support the launch of this new book by the British artist, Peter Lawrence, which is dedicated to the city of Amman in picture and in word. This is the second book that Lawrence has published during his stay in Jordan; his ﬁrst book, Colours of Jordan, was distinguished, beautiful, and successful.

Impressions of Amman contains amazing pieces of art that reﬂect the charm of this city which has both tradition and modernity in its neighborhoods, in its buildings and in its variety of social lifestyles. Lawrence has indeed succeeded with distinction in producing artistic works that reﬂect the beauty of the city not only in its appearance, but also through recognising the spirit of the city, things that can only be comprehended by those who have lived in Amman and loved her from their hearts, as has the artist of this book. The juxtaposition of the artist’s paintings and the creative writing by a number of Amman’s residents about its neighborhoods presents the reader with a rich collection of material about Amman from the 1930s until today, written in an attractive, enjoyable style to the reader. This quality makes the book a distinguished addition to the publications about Amman. Jabal Amman Publishers, which conceived and designed this book, has excelled in producing an aesthetic compilation of paintings and text, which complement each other. This book is a new concept in form and content for presenting the city of Amman. We thank all those who have contributed to making this book a reality. We also hope that our precious city will remain a source of inspiration to artists, authors, and lovers of beauty.

َ ُ َّ ‫أﻣﺎﻧـﺔ‬ َ ُّ ُ َ ‫ﻳ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن اﻟﻜـﺮﺒى أن ﺗ‬ ‫ـﺮﺴ‬ ‫ﺴـﺎﻫﻢ ﻲﻓ إﺻـﺪار ﻫـﺬا اﻟﻜﺘـﺎب اﺠﻟﺪﻳﺪ‬ َّ َّ َّ ‫اﻤﻟﺨﺼـﺺ ﻤﻟﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬ ً ‫رﺳـﻤﺎ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ ،‫ﻟﻠﻔﻨـﺎن اﻟﺮﺒﻳﻄـﺎ ِّ اﻟﺴـﻴِّﺪ ﭘﻴـﺮﺘ ﻟﻮرﻧـﺲ‬ ُ‫ وﻫـﺬا ﻫـﻮ اﻟﻜﺘﺎب اﺨﻛﺎ ا ي ﻳ‬.‫وﻠﻛﻤـﺔ‬ ُ ‫ﺼـﺪره ﻟﻮرﻧﺲ ﻲﻓ أﺛﻨـﺎء إﻗﺎﻣﺘﻪ ﻲﻓ‬ ً ً ً َّ ‘‘‫اﻷو ل ’’أﻟﻮان اﻷردن‬ َّ .‫وﻧﺎﺟﺤﺎ‬ ‫ﻤﻣـﺰﻴ ا وﻤﺟﻴﻼ‬ ‫ ﺣﻴـﺚ ﺎﻛن ﻛﺘﺎﺑﻪ‬،‫اﻷردن‬

ً ً ِّ ُ َّ ‫ﻋﻤ‬ َّ ‫ﻛﺘﺎب‬ ُ ُّ َ‫ﻳ‬ َ ‫ﺳـﺤﺮ ﻫـﺬه اﻤﻟﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫ﺗﻌﻜﺲ‬ ‫رﺳـﻮﻣﺎت ﻓﻨ َّﻴﺔ ُﻣﺪﻫﺸـﺔ‬ ‫ﺎﻧﻴﺎت‬ ‫ﻀـﻢ‬ ٍ َ ‫ ﻲﻓ اﻛﻨﺎء وأﻧﻤﺎط اﺤﻟﻴﺎة‬،‫واﻤﻟﻌـﺎﺮﺻ ة‬ ‫اﻟـﻲﺘ ﺠﺗﻤـﻊ ﻲﻓ أﺣﻴﺎﺋﻬﺎ ﻣﺎ ﺑﻦﻴ اﻷﺻﺎﻟﺔ‬

ِّ ِّ َّ َ ‫ ﻟﻘـﺪ‬.‫اﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﻴـﺔ اﻤﻟﺘﻨﻮﻋـﺔ‬ ‫أﻋﻤـﺎل ﻓﻨ َّﻴ ٍﺔ‬ ‫ﺠﻧـﺢ ﻟﻮرﻧـﺲ ﺑﺎﻣﺘﻴـﺎز ﻲﻓ ﺗﻘﺪﻳـﻢ‬ ٍ ُ ‫ ﺑـﻞ ﻣﻦ ﺟﻬﺔ‬،‫ ﻟﻴﺲ ﻣﻦ ﻧﺎﺣﻴﺔ اﻟﺸـﻞﻜ وﺣﺴـﺐ‬،‫ـﺎت اﻤﻟﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬ ِ َّ ‫ﺗﻌﻜـﺲ ﻤﺟﺎ‬ َّ ٌ َّ ُ ‫أﻣـﻮر ﻻ ﻳُﺪرﻛﻬـﺎ إﻻ َﻣـﻦ ﺨش ﻲﻓ‬ ‫ ﻣـﻦ‬،‫ﻜـﺮس ﻲﻓ روح اﻤﻟﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬ ‫ﻣـﺎ ﻫـﻮ ﻣ‬ ٍ ُ ُ َّ َّ َّ .‫ ﺣـﺎ ﺣـﺎل رﺳـﺎم ﻫـﺬا اﻟﻜﺘـﺎب‬،‫ وأﺣﺒﻬـﺎ ﻣـﻦ ﻗﻠﺒـﻪ‬،‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ َ َّ ٌ َّ َّ ‫اﻹﺑﺪاﻋﻴﺔ اﻟـﻲﺘ ﻛﺘَﺒَﻬﺎ ﻋﺪد ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻟﻮﺣـﺎت اﻟﻔﻨﺎن ﻣﻊ اﺠﺼـﻮص‬ ‫إن اﺟﺘﻤـﺎع‬ ِ ً َّ َ ً َّ ِّ َّ ‫أﻫـﻞ‬ ‫ﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫ ﻳﻘـﺪ ُم إﻰﻟ اﻟﻘﺎرئ ﻣـﺎد ة ﺛ‬،‫ﻋﻤـﺎن ﻋﻦ أﺣﻴـﺎء اﻤﻟﺪﻳﻨـﺔ وﻣﻨﺎﻃﻘﻬـﺎ‬ َّ َ َّ َّ ‫ﻋـﻦ‬ َّ ‫ﺛﻼﺛﻴﻨﻴـﺎت اﻟﻘـﺮن اﻟﻌﺮﺸﻳﻦ ﺣ‬ ُ ‫ﺗﻌﻜـﺲ اﻟﻔـﺮﺘة اﻤﻟﻤﺘﺪ ة ﻣـﻦ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ ً َُ َ ُ ‫اﻟﻜﺘﺎب إﺿﺎﻓﺔ‬ ‫ﺠﻳﻌﻞ ﻫـﺬا‬ ‫ ﻣـﺎ‬،‫وﺠﻳـﺬب اﻟﻘﺎرئ إ ﻪ‬ ‫ﺑﺄﺳـﻠﻮب ﻤﻣﺘﻊ‬ ،‫ا ـﻮم‬ ٍ َّ َّ ‫ﻤﻣـﺰﻴ ًة إﻰﻟ اﻤﻟﺆﻟﻔـﺎت اﺨﻟﺎ َّﺻـﺔ ﺑﻤﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬ َّ . ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ ِ

ْ َ ُ ْ ْ َ َ َّ َّ ‫ـﺮﺸ ’’ﺟﺒـﻞ‬ ‫أﺣﺴـﻨﺖ ُﺻﻨ ًﻌـﺎ ﻲﻓ ﻃﺮﻳﻘﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻧـﺎﺮﺷون‘‘ ﻓﻘـﺪ‬ ِ ‫أﻣـﺎ دار ﻧ‬ َ ُ ‫ﻳﺘﻮاﻓ‬ ‫ ﺑﺸـﻞﻜ‬،‫إﻋﺪادﻫـﺎ ﻫـﺬا اﻟﻜﺘـﺎب وإﺧﺮاﺟـﻪ‬ ‫ـﻖ ﻣـﻊ ﻣـﺎ ﻓﻴـﻪ ﻣـﻦ‬

َّ ٌ َ ٌ َّ ‫ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ﻋـﻦ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﺤﻳـﻮي اﺠﻟﺪﻳﺪ‬ ‫ إﻧـﻪ ﻛﺘـﺎب‬.‫ـﺎت اﻟﺮﺳـﻢ واﻟﻠﻜﻤـﺔ‬ ِ َّ ‫ﻤﺟﺎ‬ ً ً ً .‫ﺷـﻜﻼ وﻓﻜـﺮة وﻣﻀﻤﻮﻧـﺎ‬ ُّ ُ َّ َ ُ َّ َ ّ ‫اﻟﻜﺘﺎب‬ ‫وﻧﺘﻤـﻰﻨ أن ﺗﻈﻞ‬ ،‫اﺠـﻮر‬ ‫ﻳﺒـﺮﺼ ﻫـﺬا‬ ‫ﻧﺸـﻜﺮ ﻞﻛ َﻣـﻦ ﺳـﺎﻫ َﻢ ﻲﻓ أن‬ ُ َّ َّ ُ َ ِّ .‫وﺤﻣـﻲﺒ اﺠﻟﻤـﺎل‬ ‫ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺘُﻨـﺎ اﻟﻐﺎ ـﺔ َﻣﺼـﺪ َر إﻬﻟـﺎمٍ ﻟﻠﻔﻨﺎﻧـﻦﻴ واﻟﻜﺘـﺎب‬

Amman,Capital of Love and Beauty A bride enthroned on its mountains… its bright garment flowing down its slopes… boasting of its pearl-studded crown, its white gown embroidered with precious stones, its aroma of anemone and henna, with its long-lasting history… a bride boasting of the generosity and magnanimity of its people. This is Amman, which nurses beauty, literature and art. Amman is a beautiful mosaic painting with both original authenticity and modernity. Its cultural diversity embraced in a wonderful humanitarian painting, replete with warmth, good-heartedness, love, and tolerance. Amman is a capital full of action and cultural activity. It has historical sites that include theaters, castles and palaces, all witness to the greatness of its humanity and the diversity of civilizations which have passed through it, given to it and taken from it. It also has cultural centers abounding in a variety of activities year-round; festivals, evening activities and fairs. Wonderful, elite scholars, intellectuals, authors, performers, innovators and academics interact in it through a variety of organizations, societies, cultural associations and performing arts groups. Since the Ministry of Culture has been a sponsor and supporter of cultural activities, it spares no effort in providing what it can to support all of these activities and others in order for the light of knowledge to shine brightly all over the nation’s culture. It believes that the strength of culture is represented in the mentality of its people, their intellectual abilities, as well as in the citizens’ culture, which is embodied in their creative social innovation and their struggle to achieve common goals. It is like the spiritual energy of society, a precise indicator and control mechanism of the social climate. The Ministry of Culture sponsors and supports initiatives which add cultural value including publishing series of books such as The Jordanian Family Library, The Book of the Month, The Children’s Book, and publications, conferences, meetings and seminars and a variety of books and periodicals. In this context, the Ministry of Culture gives its wholehearted support to this book called Impressions of Amman in which a number of prominent residents from Amman give their impressions of this beautiful city, its people, customs, traditions, character, and of the city itself, its mountains, neighborhoods, streets, alleys, staircases, buildings, climate, and its different edifices. This book documents Amman in all its wonder, beauty, love and goodness.

Ministry of Culture

Middle: Tyche, daughter of Zeus, was the Goddess of Fortune and patron of Amman

‫‪15‬‬

‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﺨﺻﻤﺔ اﻤﻟﺤﺒﺔ واﺠﻟﻤﺎل‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ﻋﺮوس ّ‬ ‫ﺗﺘﺮﺑﻊ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﺒﺎﻟﻬﺎ‪...‬‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ﻳﻨﺴﺪل ُ‬ ‫ﺛﻮﺑﻬﺎ اﻟﺰاﻫﻲ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺳﻔﻮﺣﻬﺎ‪...‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺮﺻﻊ ﺑﺎﻟﻶﻟﺊ‪ ،‬وﺑﺜﻮﺑﻬﺎ اﻷﺑﻴﺾ اﻟﻤﺰدان ﺑﺎﻷﺣﺠﺎر اﻟﻜﺮﻳﻤﺔ‪ ،‬وﺑﺮاﺋﺤﺘﻬﺎ َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻌ ِﺒﻘﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﺪﺣﻨﻮن واﻟﺤﻨﺎء‪ ،‬وﺑﺘﺎرﻳﺨﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺗﺰﻫﻮ ﺑِﺘﺎﺟﻬﺎ‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻐﺮ ِق ﻓﻲ اﻟ ِﻘﺪم‪...‬‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ﻋﺮوس ﺗﺰﻫﻮ ﺑﻨﺨﻮة أﻫﻠﻬﺎ وﺷﻬﺎﻣﺘﻬﻢ‪.‬‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫واﻟﻔﻦ‪ّ ...‬‬ ‫ﻫﺬه ّ‬ ‫ﻴﻔﺴﺎﺋﻴﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻠﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﻠﻮﺣﺔ اﻟﻔ َﺴ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‪ ،‬ﺣﺎﺿﻨﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﺎل واﻷدب‬ ‫ﺗﺠﻤ ُﻊ اﻷﺻﺎﻟﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﻌﺎﺻﺮة‪،‬‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺑﺎﻟﺪفء ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫واﻟﺘﺴﺎﻣﺢ‪.‬‬ ‫واﻟﻤﺤﺒﺔ‬ ‫واﻟﻄﻴﺐ‬ ‫إﻧﺴﺎﻧﻴ ٍﺔ راﺋﻌﺔ‪ ،‬زاﺧﺮ ٍة‬ ‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻲ ﻓﻲ ﻟﻮﺣ ٍﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﻨﻮع‬ ‫ﻳﺘَﻌﺎﻏ ُﻖ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫ُ ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ﻌﺪ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻣﻦ اﻟﻌﻮاﺻﻢ داﺋﻤﺔ اﻟ ِﻔﻌﻞ واﻟﻨﺸﺎط‬ ‫ﺗ‬ ‫ﻣﺴﺎرح وﻗﻼع وﻗﺼﻮر‬ ‫اﻟﺘﺎرﻳﺨﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻲ ؛ ﻓﻔﻴﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﻮاﻗﻊ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫َ ْ‬ ‫َ ْ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ََ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺗﺸﻲ ﺟﻤﻴﻌﻬﺎ ﺑﻌﻈﻤﺔ إﻧﺴﺎﻧﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﺑِﺘﻨﻮع اﻟﺤﻀﺎرات اﻟﺘﻲ ﻣﺮت ﺑﻬﺎ ﻓﺄﺧﺬ ت ﻣﻨﻬﺎ وأﻋﻄﺘﻬﺎ‪ .‬وﻓﻴﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺮاﻛﺰ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺘﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺪار اﻟﻌﺎم‪ ،‬وﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﺗُ ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫واﻷﻣﺴﻴﺎت واﻟﻤﻌﺎرض‪.‬‬ ‫ﻘﺎم اﻟﻤﻬﺮﺟﺎﻧﺎت‬ ‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻴﺔ اﻟﺤﺎﻓﻠﺔ ﺑﺎﻷﻧﺸﻄﺔ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َُ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫َ َُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫واﻷﻛﺎدﻳﻤﻴﻴﻦ‪ ،‬وﺗﺘﻌﺪ د ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﻠﻤﺎء واﻟﻤﻔﻜﺮﻳﻦ واﻷد ﺑﺎء واﻟﻔﻨﺎﻧﻴﻦ واﻟﻤﺒﺪﻋﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﻔﺎﻋﻞ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻧﺨﺒﺔ راﺋﻌﺔ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻳﺘ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻴﺔ واﻟﻔﺮق اﻟﻔﻨ ّﻴﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫واﻟﺠﻤﻌﻴﺎت واﻟﺮواﺑﻂ‬ ‫اﻟﻬﻴﺌﺎت‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫َ ْ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ َ ْ‬ ‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻲ‪ ،‬ﻓﺈﻧﻬﺎ ﻻ ﺗﺄل َﺟﻬﺪا ﻓﻲ ﺗﻘﺪﻳﻢ ﻛﻞ ﻣﺎ ﺗﺴﺘﻄﻴﻊ ﻟﺪﻋﻢ ﻛﻞ ﻫﺬا وﻏﻴﺮه‪،‬‬ ‫وﻟﻤﺎ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ وزارة اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ راﻋﻴﺔ وداﻋﻤﺔ ﻟﻠﻔﻌﻞ‬ ‫ُّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫َ َ‬ ‫ّ َّ‬ ‫ﻧﻮر اﻟﻤﻌﺮﻓﺔ ُﺳ ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺰداد ُ‬ ‫ﻋﻘﻠﻴﺔ اﻟﺸﻌﺐ وﻗﺪراﺗﻪ‬ ‫ﻗﻮة اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ ﺗﺘﻤﺜﻞ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﻄﻮﻋﺎ ﻓﻲ أرﺎﻛن ﺳﻤﺎء ﺛﻘﺎﻓﺔ اﻟﻮﻃﻦ‪ ،‬إﻳﻤﺎﻧﺎ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﺑﺄن‬ ‫ﻟﻴ‬ ‫ّ َ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺬﻫﻨﻴﺔ‪ ،‬و ﺛﻘﺎﻓﺔ اﻟﻤﻮاﻃﻨﻴﻦ اﻟﻤﺘﺠﺴﺪة ﻓﻲ إﺑﺪاﻋﻬﻢ اﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﻲ اﻟﺨﻼق‪ ،‬وﻧﻀﺎﻟﻬﻢ ﻓﻲ ﺗﺤﻘﻴﻖ اﻷﻫﺪاف اﻟﻤﺸﺘﺮﻛﺔ‪ ،‬وﻫﻲ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وﺟﻬﺎز َﺿﺒْﻂ ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﻲ‪.‬‬ ‫ﻟﻠﻤﻨﺎخ‬ ‫اﻟﺮوﺣﻴﺔ ﻟﻠﻤﺠﺘﻤﻊ‪ ،‬وﻫﻲ أﻳﻀﺎ ﻣﺆﺷ ٌﺮ دﻗﻴﻖ‪،‬‬ ‫أﺷﺒﻪ ﺑﺎﻟﻄﺎﻗﺔ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ُّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫اﻟﺴﻼﺳﻞ اﻟﻤﺘﻌﺪدة‪:‬‬ ‫ﻋﻤﻠﻴﺔ اﻟﻨﺸﺮ اﻟﻤﺘﻤﺜﻠﺔ ﻓﻲ إﺻﺪار‬ ‫وﺗﺪﻋﻤﻬﺎ‪،‬‬ ‫وزارة اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻬﻤﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺮﻋﺎﻫﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻴﺔ‬ ‫وﻣﻦ اﻟﺠﻮاﻧﺐ‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻣﻜﺘﺒﺔ اﻷﺳﺮة اﻷردﻧﻴﺔ‪ ،‬وﻛﺘﺎب اﻟﺸﻬﺮ‪ ،‬وﻛﺘﺎب اﻟﻄﻔﻞ‪ ،‬وإﺻﺪارات اﻹﺑﺪاع‬ ‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻲ واﻟﻤﺆﺗﻤﺮات واﻟﻤﻠﺘﻘﻴﺎت واﻟﻨﺪوات‪،‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫واﻟﻜ ّﺘﺎب واﻟﻤﺆﻟّﻔﻴﻦ اﻷردﻧﻴّﻴﻦ‪ ،‬وﻛﺘﺎﺑﻲ ّ‬ ‫اﻷول‪ ،‬إﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﻌﺠﻤﺎت اﻟﻤﺨﺘﻠﻔﺔ‪ ،‬ﻓﻀﻼ‬ ‫اﻷردﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫وإﺻﺪارات ﻣﺪن اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻴﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫اﻟﺪورﻳﺎت وﻣﻨﻬﺎ‪ :‬أﻓﻜﺎر‪ ،‬ووﺳﺎم‪ ،‬وﻓﻨﻮن‪ ،‬وﻣﺠﻠﺔ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻦ‬

‫َ َُ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﻤ ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺸﺨﺼﻴﺎت ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫’’ﻋﻤ ّ‬ ‫ﻧﺸﺮ ﻛﺘﺎب ّ‬ ‫وﺿﻤﻦ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺴﻴﺎق ﺗﺪﻋﻢ وزارة اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ َ‬ ‫ﺎﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻨﺎول ﻓﻴﻪ ﻋﺪد ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﺎﻧﻴﺎت‘‘‪ ،‬اﻟﺬي ﻳﺘ‬ ‫ِ‬

‫اﻧﻄﺒﺎﻋﺎﺗﻬﻢ ﻋﻦ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻠﺔ‪ ،‬وﻋﻦ ﻧﺎﺳﻬﺎ وﻋﺎداﺗﻬﻢ وﺗﻘﺎﻟﻴﺪﻫﻢ وﻃﺒﺎﺋﻌﻢ‪ ،‬وﻋﻦ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ذاﺗﻬﺎ‪ :‬ﺟﺒﺎﻟﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وأﺣﻴﺎﺋﻬﺎ‪،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ﺗﻮﺛﻴﻖ َ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫وأزﻗﺘﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وأدراﺟﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﻣﺒﺎﻧﻴﻬﺎ وﻣﻨﺎﺧﻬﺎ ُ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺘﻨﻮﻋﺔ‪َ .‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻜﺘﺎب‬ ‫وﻳﻌﻨﻲ ﻫﺬا أن‬ ‫وﺻﺮوﺣﻬﺎ‬ ‫وﺷﻮارﻋﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻟﻌ ّﻤﺎن وﻞﻛ ﻣﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وﺟﻤﺎل وﻣﺤﺒﺔ وﻃﻴﺐ‪.‬‬ ‫َروﻋ ٍﺔ‬ ‫ٍ‬

‫ّ‬ ‫وزارة اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ‬

‫ﻓﻲ ﺍﻟﻮﺳﻂ‪ :‬ﺗﺎﻳﻜﻲ ﺍﺑﻨﺔ ﺯﻳﻮﺱ ﺇﻟﻬﺔ ﺍﻟﺤﻆ ﻭﺭﺍﻋﻲ ﻋ ّﻤﺎﻥ‬

‫ﺗﻤﻬﻴـﺪ ﺑﻘﻠﻢ ﺤﻣﻤﺪ ﻋﺒﺪاﻟﺮﺣﻴﻢ ﺟﺮداﻧﺔ‬

Preface by Mohammad AR

I am keen to support the publication of this book because of the strong ties that my family and I have with the city of Amman. This relationship goes back to the 1920s when my father, Abdul Rahim Jardaneh, moved from Nablus to live in Amman. We also are personal friends with the artist Peter Lawrence as well as colleagues for the last twenty years. During that period, we have known him as an engineer in the Environment and Water sector and then as an outstanding artist whose paintbrush innovated wonderful watercolors of Jordan. These paintings were collected in a book called Colours of Jordan. And now he expresses his love for Amman in these beautiful paintings in this book. I became aware of Amman’s first features in our old house which my father built in Mango Street (nowadays Omar bin Alkhattab Street) in Jabal Amman, to which my family moved in 1935. The Jordanian Royal Film Commission now occupies the second and third floors. The first floor, with its large garden, houses memories of my family’s joyful past and now brings together children and grandchildren for special occasions. Not only was my world small at that time, moving between school, house, and neighborhood, but Amman also was a small town physically, though large when measured by the deep relationships its citizens had. The Amman of the past straddled one of the tributaries of Zarqa River, known as Amman’s stream, which connects the Raghadan cement bridge downtown with the prince’s divan and the Roman theater. The Hammam steel bridge connects Al-Muhajirin (immigrants) area, named after the second Circassian immigrants, with the Tulyani Hospital area, with Jabal Surur and Jabal Al-Gufa. However, the relational bridges were unlimited and made of much more solid, lasting material. Amman was a simple town in its neighborhoods but rich in its diversity. In our simple neighborhood in Mango Street—or Glob Street named after Glob Basha, who lived in that neighborhood—there was a broad spectrum of people, including Muslim, Christian, Circassian and Armenian families. Some of them are: Hamdi Mango, Aref Anabtawi, Abu Samir Al-Rifai, Sa’ed Al-Mufti, Omar Hikmat, the families of Al-Khos, AlQussous, Sweiss, Kashjian, Madanat, Haddad and Hamid. Life was not complicated. People were good-hearted. Amman was so simple that while going from our house in Mango Street to my father’s

Previous page: 8thC Umayyad Governor's Palace Left: The Jardaneh Residence

Jardaneh

َّ ‫ﻗﻮﻳﺔ ﺑﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ّ َ ُ َ ،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫رﻏﺒﺖ أن‬ ٍ ‫أدﻋﻢ إﺻﺪار ﻫﺬا اﻟﻜﺘﺎب ِﻤﻟﺎ ﻲﻟ وﻟﻌﺎﺋﻠﻲﺘ ﻣﻦ رواﺑﻂ‬ ُ َ ّ ُ ‫ﻋﺮﺸﻳﻨﻴﺎت اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻌﺮﺸﻳﻦ ﺣﻴﻨﻤﺎ اﻧﺘﻘﻞ وا ي ﻋﺒﺪ اﻟﺮﺣﻴﻢ‬ ‫ﺗﺮﺟـﻊ اﻟﻌﻼﻗـﺔ إﻰﻟ‬ ‫إذ‬ ّ ‫ﻟﻠﺴﻜﻦ ﻲﻓ‬ ّ ‫ﺟﺮداﻧﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻧﺎﺑﻠﺲ‬ .‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬

ً ّ ّ ّ ُ ‫ﻛﻤـﺎ أن ﻫﻨـﺎك ﻋﻼﻗـﺔ‬ ،‫ﺷـﺨﺼﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺗﺮﺑﻄﻨـﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﻔﻨـﺎن ﭘﻴـﺮﺘ ﻟﻮرﻧﺲ ﻣـﻦ ﺻﺪاﻗ ٍﺔ‬ ْ ّ ‫ ﻋﺮﻓﻨـﺎه ﺧﻼﻬﻟﺎ‬،‫ﻋﻤـﻞ اﻣﺘـﺪ ت ﻋـﺮﺒ اﻟﺴـﻨﻮات اﻟﻌﺮﺸﻳـﻦ اﻤﻟﺎﺿﻴـﺔ‬ ‫وﻋﻼﻗـ ِﺔ‬ ٍ ّ ً ّ ّ ُ ْ َ َ ُ ً ‫ﻟﻮﺣﺎت‬ ‫ ﻋـﻢ ﻓﻨﺎﻧـﺎ ﺗﺄﻟﻖ وأﺑﺪ ﻋـﺖ رﻳﺸـﺘﻪ‬،‫ﻣﻬﻨﺪﺳـﺎ ﻲﻓ ﻗﻄـﺎع اﻛﻴﺌـﺔ واﻤﻟﻴـﺎه‬ ٍ ً ّ ْ َ ُ ُ ‫ﺠﻳﺴ‬ ّ ‫ واﻵن‬.‘‘‫ـﺖ ﻲﻓ ﻛﺘـﺎب ’’أﻟﻮان اﻷردن‬ ‫ـﺪ‬ ‫ﻤﺟﻌ‬ ِ ‫ﻣﺎﺋﻴـﺔ راﺋﻌـﺔ ﻋـﻦ اﻷردن‬ ّ ‫ﺣﺒـﻪ‬ ّ .‫ﻟﻌﻤـﺎن ﺑﻬـﺬه اﻟﻠﻮﺣـﺎت اﻟﺮاﺋﻌـﺔ اﻟـﻲﺘ ﺤﻳﻮﻳﻬـﺎ ﻫـﺬا اﻟﻜﺘـﺎب‬ َّ ّ ‫وﻋﻴـﺖ ﺒﻟ ﻣﻼﻣـﺢ‬ ُ ‫ﺷـﻴﺪه وا ي ﻲﻓ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن اﻷو ﻲﻓ ﺑﻴﺘﻨـﺎ اﻟﻘﺪﻳـﻢ ا ي‬ ‫ﻟﻘـﺪ‬ ْ َ ّ ّ ‫ واﻧﺘﻘﻠﺖ إ ﻪ ﺨﺋﻠﻲﺘ‬،‫ﺷـﺎرع ﻣﻨﻜﻮ )ﺣﺎ ًﺎ ﺷﺎرع ﻋﻤﺮ ﺑﻦ اﺨﻟﻄﺎب( ﺠﺑﺒﻞ ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ُ ََ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻄﺎﻧﻘﻦﻴ اﺨﻛﺎ‬ ‫اﻷردﻧﻴـﺔ ﻟﻸﻓـﻼم‬ ‫اﻤﻟﻠﻜﻴـﺔ‬ ‫اﺠﻟﻤﻌﻴـﺔ‬ ‫ واﻵن ﺗﺸـﻐﻞ‬،‫م‬١٩٣٥ ‫ﺨم‬ ْ َ َ َ ،‫واﺨﻛﺎﻟـﺚ‬ ّ ‫اﻟﻄﺎﻧ ُﻖ‬ ‫ﺳـﻌﻴﺪ ﺨﺷـﺘﻪ‬ ‫ﻣﺎض‬ ‫اﻷول ﺤﺑﺪﻳﻘﺘﻪ اﻟﻮاﺳـﻌﺔ‬ ‫وﻳ ُﻀ ّﻢ‬ ٍ ‫ذﻛﺮﻳﺎت‬ ٍ ِ َ َ ُ .‫ﺠﻳﻤﻊ اﻷوﻻد واﻷﺣﻔﺎد ﻲﻓ اﻤﻟﻨﺎﺳـﺒﺎت‬ ‫وﺣﺎﺮﺿ‬ ،‫اﻟﻌﺎﺋﻠﺔ‬ ٍ ِ

ُ ً ‫ﻳﺪور ﻣﺎ ﺑﻦﻴ اﻤﻟﺪرﺳﺔ‬ ‫ﺻﻐﺮﻴا ﻲﻓ ذﻟﻚ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ إذ ﺎﻛن‬ ‫ﻟﻢ ﻳﻜﻦ ﻓﻘﻂ ﺨﻟﻲﻤ‬ ٌ ّ ً ً ً ّ ‫ ﻟﻜﻨﻬﺎ ﻛﺒﺮﻴة‬،‫ ﺑﻞ ﺎﻛﻧﺖ ﻋﻤﺎن أﻳﻀﺎ ﺑﺘة ﺻﻐﺮﻴة ﻲﻓ ﺣﺠﻤﻬﺎ‬،‫واﻛﻴﺖ واﺤﻟﺎرة‬

.‫ﺑﻌﻼﻗﺔ أﻫﻠﻬﺎ اﺤﻟﻤﻴﻤﺔ‬

َ ‫ﺟﺎﻧﻲﺒ‬ ّ ‫ اﻤﻟﻌﺮوف ﺑ َﺴﻴﻞ‬،‫أﺣﺪ رواﻓﺪ ﻧﻬﺮ اﻟﺰرﻗﺎء‬ ّ ‫ﺎﻛﻧﺖ‬ ُ َ ،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ﺗﻘﻊ ﺒﻟ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻤﻟﺎ‬ ِ ّ ّ ُ ّ ‫اﻻﺳـﻤﻨﻲﺘ وﺳـﻂ اﻛـﺘ ﺑﻤﻨﻄﻘ ِﺔ ا ﻳـﻮان‬ ‫ﺟـﺮﺴ رﻏﺪان‬ ‫ﻳﺮﺑـﻂ‬ ‫واﻤﻟﺪرج‬ ‫اﻷﻣـﺮﻴي‬ َ ْ ِّ ُ ُ ُ ‫ واﻟﻲﺘ ﺳـﻤﻴﺖ‬،‫اﻤﻟﻌـﺪ ّ ﻣﻨﻄﻘـﺔ اﻤﻟﻬﺎﺟﺮﻳﻦ‬ ‫ ﺑﻴﻨﻤـﺎ ﻳﺮﺑـﻂ ﺟﺮﺴ اﺤﻟﻤـﺎم‬، ّ ‫اﻟﺮوﻣـﺎ‬ ِ ً ‫ وﺟﺒﻞ ﺮﺳور‬، ‫ﺑﺬﻟﻚ ﻧﺴـﺒﺔ إﻰﻟ اﻬﻟﺠﺮة اﺨﻛﺎﻧﻴﺔ ﻟﻠﺮﺸﻛﺲ ﺑﻤﻨﻄﻘﺔ ﻣﺴﺘﺸﻰﻔ اﻟﻄﻠﻴﺎ‬ ّ ّ ْ َ َ ‫رﺑﻄﺖ ﺳـﺎﻜﻧﻬﺎ ﺎﻛﻧـﺖ ﻏﺮﻴ ﺤﻣﺪود ٍة وﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﺟﺴـﻮر اﻟﻌﻼﻗﺎت اﻟﻲﺘ‬ ‫ ﻏﺮﻴ أن‬...‫واﺠﻟﻮﻓﺔ‬ ً َ َ‫ﻣﻌﺪن أﺻﻠ‬ َ .‫وأﻛﺮﺜ دﻳﻤﻮﻣﺔ‬ ‫ﺐ‬ ٍ ِ ّ ّ ‫ ﻓﻲﻔ‬،‫ﺑﺘﻨﻮﻋﻬﺎ‬ ّ ‫إن‬ ّ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﺒﺴﻴﻄﺔ ﺤﺑﺎراﺗﻬﺎ ﺎﻛﻧﺖ‬ ّ ‫ﺛﺮﻳ ًﺔ‬ -‫ﺣﻴﻨﺎ اﻟﺒﺴﻴﻂ ﻲﻓ ﺷﺎرع ﻣﻨﻜﻮ‬ ِ ً ٌ ُ َ ‫ﻧﺴﺒﺔ إﻰﻟ ﻏﻠﻮپ ﺑﺎﺷﺎ ا ي‬ ‫ﻳﺴﻜﻦ ﻃﻴﻒ‬ ‫ ﺎﻛن‬- ّ ‫أﻗﺎم ﻲﻓ ذﻟﻚ اﻟ‬ ‫أو ﺷﺎرع ﻏﻠﻮپ‬ ًّ ًّ ً ًّ ٌ ّ ّ ‫ﻣﺘﻨﻮع ﻣﻦ اﺠﺎس ﻳﻀﻢ‬ :‫ أذﻛﺮ ﻣﻨﻬﻢ‬،‫ﺨﺋﻼت ﻣﺴﻠﻤﺔ وﻣﺴﻴﺤﻴﺔ وﺮﺷﻛﺴﻴﺔ وأرﻣﻨﻴﺔ‬ ٍ

،‫ وﻋﻤﺮ ﺣﻜﻤﺖ‬،‫ وﺳﻌﻴﺪ اﻤﻟﻔﻲﺘ‬،‫ وأﺑﻮ ﺳﻤﺮﻴ اﻟﺮﻓﺎﻲﻋ‬،‫ وﺨرف ﻋﻨﺒﺘﺎوي‬،‫ﻤﺣﺪي ﻣﻨﻜﻮ‬

.‫ وﻤﺣﻴﺪ‬،‫ وﺣﺪاد‬،‫ واﻤﻟﺪاﻧﺎت‬،‫ وﺎﻛﺷﺎﺟﻴﺎن‬،‫ وﺻﻮﻳﺺ‬،‫ واﻟﻘﺴﻮس‬،‫وﺨﺋﻼت اﺨﻟﺺ‬

ً ّ ُ ُ ّ ‫ وﺎﻛﻧﺖ‬،‫ﻃﻴﺒﻦﻴ‬ ّ ‫اﺠﺎس‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻣﻦ اﻟﺒﺴـﺎﻃﺔ ﺤﺑﻴﺚ إ‬ ‫ﻟـﻢ ﺗﻜـﻦ‬ ‫ وﺎﻛن‬،‫اﺤﻟﻴﺎة ﻣﻌﻘﺪة‬ ُ - ‫ﻛﻨـﺖ ﺧـﻼل ذﻫﺎ ﻣﻦ ﺑﻴﺘﻨﺎ ﻲﻓ ﺷـﺎرع ﻣﻨﻜﻮ إﻰﻟ ﺻﻴﺪ ّﺔ وا ي ﻲﻓ وﺳـﻂ اﻛﺘ‬

‫ﺍﻟﻤﻴﻼﺩﻱ‬ ‫ﺃﻣﻮﻱ ﻣﻦ ﺍﻟﻘﺮﻥ ﺍﻟﺜﺎﻣﻦ‬ ّ ّ ‫ ﻗﺼﺮ ﺣﺎﻛﻢ‬:‫ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺴﺎﺑﻘﺔ‬ ‫ ﻣﻨﺰﻝ ﻋﺎﺋﻠﺔ ﺟﺮﺩﺍﻧﺔ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬

pharmacy downtown, which was the second pharmacy in Amman, I used to know and greet every person I met, from the garbage collector to the highest ranking official in the government at that time. I still remember how Tawfiq Abu al Huda, who later became the Prime Minister, gave me a ride in his car to my father’s pharmacy. There was nothing ostentatious about Amman for its visitors, but it was a vivacious city thriving in the hearts of its friendly people. Its center was Al-Husseini Mosque and its square, from which three paved streets branched out, one to Zarqa, another to Al-Salt, and a third to Jabal Amman. There were also some schools in Amman: The Bishop’s School for boys, Al-Ahliya School for girls, the secondary government school next to Petra Cinema, which was the only cinema at that time, and the Islamic Scientific College, which opened in 1947, and a number of elementary schools. 1948 was a turning point in the history of Amman. Life started to have a different flavor. Amman changed from a small town to a big city. I left Amman to study in Cairo and then at the American University of Beirut. I used to return to Amman during my school holidays. When I lived in it and worked in the Public Works Ministry, I saw that Amman had become a different city, bigger, larger and more complicated. I was honored to be elected as the head of the Engineers Union as well as a member of the Municipal Board of Amman for two separate terms. We worked hard to organize the city and to offer the best services in it. However, Amman was growing faster than we could organize it. Continual immigration from the neighboring countries as a result of the prevailing political situation in the region obstructed serious planning efforts. What draws me to Amman is not only my attachment to the memories of the past or friendships made that have continued for decades, but my love for everything in it, especially its summer evenings with their mild breezes. Its location at the edge of the desert makes it a meeting place for the warmth of the east and the mild breeze of the west. I love Amman; it became a home for me and for my family. I have great hope that it will be the same for my children and grandchildren. During their study abroad my children (and now my grandchildren) with the encouragement of the family, used to spend the Christmas and summer holidays in Amman among family members and friends. During the holidays, we used to have group trips in the summer until it has become a tradition that the three generations plan and look forward to. A cohesive family has been the best guarantee of a better society. As my father, Abdul Rahim Jardaneh, and my brothers Nizar, Basel and I have served this homeland, I am sure that the generations to come will follow the same path. I extend my love to Amman and its people. May Amman stay radiant in its colors, rich in its people, scented with the smell of the jasmine of its old neighborhoods.

Right: Omar Bin Khattab St. Next page: Citadel Spectacular

ُ ُ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﺎﻤﻟﻨﺎﺳﺒﺔ اﻟﺼﻴﺪ ّ ُﺔ اﺨﻛﺎﻧﻴﺔ ﻲﻓ‬ َ ُ -‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫وأﺣﻴﻴﻬﻢ‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ أﻋﺮف ﻤﺟﻴﻊ َﻣﻦ أﻗﺎﺑﻠﻬﻢ‬ ‫وﻲﻫ‬ ّ ُ ُ ‫ وﻻ أزال أذﻛﺮ ﻛﻴﻒ أﻗﻠﻲﻨ‬،‫ﻣﺴـﺆول ﻲﻓ اﺤﻟﻜﻮﻣﺔ آﻧﺬاك‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﺨﻣﻞ اﺠﻈﺎﻓﺔ إﻰﻟ أﻛﺮﺒ‬ ٍ ّ ً ّ .‫ ﺑﺴﻴﺎرﺗﻪ إﻰﻟ ﺻﻴﺪ ّﺔ وا ي‬،‫ ا ي ﺗﻮ رﺋﺎﺳﺔ اﻟﻮزراء ﻻﺣﻘﺎ‬،‫ﺗﻮﻓﻴﻖ أﺑﻮ اﻬﻟﺪى‬ ً ً ّ ّ ‫ﻳﻜﻦ ﻲﻓ‬ ْ ُ ُ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن ﻲﻓ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻷﻳّﺎم ﻣـﺎ ﻳ‬ ‫ وﻟﻜﻨﻬﺎ ﺎﻛﻧـﺖ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻧﺎﺑﻀﺔ‬،‫ﺒﻬﺮ زاﺋﺮﻳﻬـﺎ‬ ‫ﻟـﻢ‬ َُ ً ‫ وﻣﻨﻪ‬،‫ﺎﻛن ﻣﺮﻛﺰﻫﺎ اﺠﻟﺎﻣﻊ اﺤﻟﺴـﻴﻲﻨ وﺳﺎﺣﺘﻪ‬.‫ ﺨﻣﺮة ﺑﻘﻠﻮب أﺑﻨﺎﺋﻬﺎ اﻟﻮدودﻳﻦ‬،‫ﺑﺎﺤﻟﻴﺎة‬ ُ ُ ّ ٌ ٌ ٌ ّ َ ‫ وﺛﺎﻟﺚ إﻰﻟ ﺟﺒﻞ‬،‫ وآﺧﺮ إﻰﻟ اﻟﺴـﻠﻂ‬،‫ﻣﻌﺒﺪة واﺣﺪ إﻰﻟ اﻟﺰرﻗﺎء‬ ‫ﺗﺘﻔﺮع ﺛﻼﺛﺔ ﺷـﻮارع‬ ٌ ّ ‫ واﻤﻟﺪرﺳـﺔ‬،‫ ﻣﺪرﺳـﺔ اﻤﻟﻄﺮان ﻟﻠﺒﻨﻦﻴ‬:‫ﻛﻤـﺎ ﺎﻛن ﻓﻴﻬـﺎ ﻋـﺪد ﻣﻦ اﻤﻟـﺪارس ﻲﻫ‬.‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ َ َّ َّ َّ ‫ﺖ‬ ِ ‫ اﻟﻲﺘ ﺎﻛﻧ‬،‫ واﻤﻟﺪرﺳـﺔ اﺨﻛﺎﻧﻮﻳﺔ اﺤﻟﻜﻮﻣﻴﺔ ﺠﺑﺎﻧﺐ ﺳـﻴﻨﻤﺎ اﻛـﺮﺘاء‬،‫اﻷﻫﻠﻴـﺔ ﻟﻠﺒﻨـﺎت‬ ّ ّ ّ ُ ‫اﺤﻛﺪرﻳﺲ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﺨم‬ ‫ اﻟﻲﺘ ﺑـﺪأ‬،‫اﻹﺳـﻼﻣﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﻠﻤﻴﺔ‬ ‫ واﻟﻠﻜ ّﻴﺔ‬،‫اﻟﺴـﻴﻨﻤﺎ اﻟﻮﺣﻴﺪة آﻧﺬاك‬ ً ّ .‫اﻻﺑﺘﺪاﺋﻴﺔ ﻟﻠﺒﻨﻦﻴ واﻛﻨﺎت‬ ‫ إﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻰﻟ ﻋﺪ ٍد ﻣﻦ اﻤﻟﺪارس‬،‫م‬١٩٤٧ ً ً ُ ً ً ‫ﺗﺄﺧـﺬ‬ ّ ،‫ﻃﺎﺑﻌﺎ ﺨﻣﺘﻠﻔﺎ‬ ‫ﺑﺪأت اﺤﻟﻴﺎة‬ ِ ‫ إذ‬،‫م ﺎﻛن ﻧﻘﻄـﺔ ﻓﺎﺻﻠـﺔ ﻲﻓ ﺗﺎرﻳـﺦ ﻋﻤـﺎن‬١٩٤٨ ‫ﺨم‬ َ ً ً ْ َ ّ ‫ﺗﺮﻛﺖ‬ ّ ‫ﺖ‬ ُ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻟﺘراﺳﺔ ﻲﻓ‬ .‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﺗﻨﺘﻘﻞ ﻣﻦ ﻛﻮﻧﻬﺎ ﺑﺘة ﺻﻐﺮﻴة إﻰﻟ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻛﺒﺮﻴة‬ ‫وراﺣ‬

َ ُ ّ ُ ‫أﻋﻮد إ ﻬﺎ ﺧﻼل‬ ُ ‫ وﻗﺪ‬،‫اﻷﻣﺮﻴﻛﻴـﺔ ﻲﻓ ﺑﺮﻴوت‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ‬ ‫اﻟﻘﺎﻫـﺮة وﻣﻦ ﻋ ّﻢ ﻲﻓ اﺠﻟﺎﻣﻌﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻌ َﻄﻞ‬ ّ ُ ّ ّ ‫أن‬ ّ ُ ُ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن أﺧﺬت‬ ‫ رأﻳﺖ‬،‫وﻋﻤﻠﺖ ﻲﻓ وزارة اﻷﺷﻐﺎل اﻟﻌﺎﻣﺔ‬ ‫أﻗﻤﺖ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫ وﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ‬.‫راﺳﻴﺔ‬ ‫ا‬ ً َ َ َ َ .‫ﺻﻮرة ﻣﺪﻳﻨ ٍﺔ أﺧﺮى أﻛﺮﺒ وأوﺳﻊ وأﻋﻘﺪ أﻳﻀﺎ‬

َّ ُ ‫ﻋﻀﻮﻳﺔ ﺠﻣﻠﺲ‬ ‫ وﻛﺬﻟﻚ اﺧﺘﻴﺎري ﻲﻓ‬،‫ﺣﻈﻴﺖ ﺑﺮﺸف اﻧﺘﺨﺎ ﻧﻘﻴﺒًﺎ ﻟﻠﻤﻬﻨﺪﺳﻦﻴ‬ ‫ﻟﻘﺪ‬ َ ّ ّ َ َ ّ ‫ ﺣﺎوﺠﺎ ﺟﺎﻫﺪﻳﻦ أن ﻧﻨﻈ َﻢ اﻤﻟﺪﻳﻨﺔ وأن ﻧﻘﺪم أﻓﻀﻞ‬.‫أﻣﺎﻧﺔ ﻋﻤﺎن ورﺗﻦﻴ ﻣﻨﻔﺼﻠﺘﻦﻴ‬ ّ ُ ّ ‫أن‬ ‫ﻓﺎﻬﻟﺠﺮات‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﺎﻛﻧﺖ ﺗﻨﻤﻮ أﺮﺳع ﻣﻦ ﻗﺪرﺗﻨﺎ ﺒﻟ اﺤﻛﻨﻈﻴﻢ؛‬ ‫ ﻏﺮﻴ‬،‫اﺨﻟﺪﻣﺎت ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ َ ُ َ َ ْ َ ّ ‫اﻤﻟﺘﻮاﺻﻠـﺔ ﻣﻦ د َو ِل اﺠﻟﻮار ﻧﺘﻴﺠﺔ اﻷوﺿﺎع اﻟﺴﻴﺎﺳـﻴﺔ اﻟﻲﺘ ﺳـﺎد ِت اﻤﻟﻨﻄﻘﺔ أﺨﻗﺖ‬ َّ َ .‫ﻻت اﺤﻛﺨﻄﻴﻂ اﺠﻟﺎدة‬ ِ ‫ﺤﻣﺎو‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻳﺸـﺪ إﻰﻟ‬ ‫ وﻻ اﻟﺼﺪاﻗﺎت اﻟﻲﺘ‬، ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻟﻴﺲ ﻓﻘﻂ اﺤﻟﻨﻦﻴ إﻰﻟ ذﻛﺮﻳﺎت اﻤﻟﺎ‬ ‫إن ﻣﺎ‬ ّ ّ ْ ّ ْ ً ّ ّ ،‫ﻟﻞﻜ ﻣﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺼﻴﻔﻴﺔ ﺑﻨﺴﻤﺎﺗﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺳﻴﻤﺎ أﻣﺴـﻴﺎﺗﻬﺎ‬ ‫ ﺑﻞ ﺣﻲﺒ‬،‫واﺳـﺘﻤﺮت ﻋﻘﻮدا‬ ‫ﻧﺸـﺄت‬ ْ ً ّ ‫ ﻓﻤﻮﻗﻌﻬـﺎ ﺒﻟ اﺤﻟـﺪود‬،‫اﻟﻌﻠﻴﻠـﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺼﺤﺮاوﻳـﺔ ﺟﻌﻠﻬـﺎ ﻣﻠﺘﻰﻘ ِ فء اﻟﺮﺸق وﻧﺴـﻴﻢ‬

.‫اﻟﻐﺮب اﻟﻌﻠﻴﻞ‬

َّ ٌ ّ ّ ‫ﺖ‬ ُ ْ‫أﺣﺒﺒ‬ .‫ وﻲﻠﻛ أﻣﻞ أن ﺗﻈﻞ ﻛﺬﻟﻚ ﻷوﻻدي وأﺣﻔﺎدي‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻓﺎﻜﻧﺖ ﺑﻴﺘًﺎ ﻲﻟ وﻷﺮﺳﻲﺗ‬ َ ،‫ﺧﻼل دراﺳﺘﻬﻢ ﻲﻓ اﺨﻟﺎرج‬ ‫ ﺑﺘﺸﺠﻴﻊ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻌﺎﺋﻠﺔ أن‬-‫ واﻵن أﺣﻔﺎدي‬-‫ﻧﻬﺞ أوﻻدي‬ َ َّ ّ ‫اﻟﺼﻴﻔﻴﺔ ﻲﻓ‬ ‫ﻳُﻤﻀﻮا ﻋﻄﻠﺔ ﻋﻴﺪ اﻤﻟﻴﻼد واﻟﻌﻄﻠﺔ‬ ‫ وﺎﻛﻧﺖ‬.‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﺑﻦﻴ اﻷﻫﻞ واﻷﺻﺪﻗﺎء‬ َ ُ ّ ٌ ً ّ ّ ‫ ﺣ‬،‫ﻤﺟﺎﻋﻴـﺔ ﻲﻓ اﻟﺼﻴﻒ‬ ِّ ‫ﺗﻘﻠﻴـﺪا‬ َ ُ ‫ﺨﺗﻄﻂ‬ ‫اﻷﻣﺮ‬ ‫ﺻـﺎر‬ ‫ﺗﺘﺨﻠـﻞ اﻟﻌﻄـﻞ رﺣـﻼت‬ ُ ُ ُ ُ ُ ّ ‫اﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻲﻋ‬ ‫اﻷﺟﻴـﺎل اﺨﻛﻼﺛﺔ وﺗﺘﻮق إ ﻪ؛ ﻓﺎﻟﻌﺎﺋﻠﺔ اﻤﻟﺮﺘاﺑﻄﺔ ﺎﻛﻧﺖ وﻻ ﺗﺰال اﻟﻀﻤﺎن‬ .‫اﻷﻓﻀﻞ واﻷﻤﺟﻞ‬

َ ‫وﻛﻤﺎ ﻋﻤﻞ وا ي ﻋﺒﺪ اﻟﺮﺣﻴﻢ ﺟﺮداﻧﺔ وإﺧﻮﻲﺗ ﻧﺰار وﺑﺎﺳﻞ وأﻧﺎ ﻲﻓ اﻤﻟﺴﺎﻫﻤﺔ ﻲﻓ ﺑﻨﺎء‬ ‫ ﻓﺄﻧﺎ ﺒﻟ ﻳﻘﻦﻴ أن ﻳﺴـﺮﻴ اﺠﻟﻴﻞ اﺨﻛﺎﻟـﺚ واﻷﺟﻴﺎل اﻟﻘﺎدﻣﺔ ﺒﻟ‬،‫ﻫـﺬا اﻟﻮﻃﻦ وﺧﺪﻣﺘﻪ‬ .‫ﻫﺬا ا ّ رب‬

ّ ًّ ً ً ّ ‫ﺒﻖ‬ ّ ّ َ ‫وﺤﻛ‬ َ ْ .‫اﺤﻟﺐ‬ ‫ َﻋ ِﻄﺮة‬،‫ﻏﻨﻴﺔ ﺑﺄﻫﻠﻬﺎ‬ ،‫ﻋﻤـﺎن زاﻫﻴﺔ ﺑﺄﻟﻮاﻧﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻟﻌﻤـﺎن وﻷﻫﻠﻬﺎ أﻫﺪي ﻞﻛ‬

.‫ﺑﺮاﺤﺋ ِﺔ ﻳﺎﺳﻤﻦﻴ أﺣﻴﺎﺋﻬﺎ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤﺔ‬

ّ ‫ ﺷﺎﺭﻉ ﻋﻤﺮ ﺑﻦ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺨﻄﺎﺏ‬ ‫ ﺍﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ ﺍﻟﻤﺬﻫﻠﺔ‬:‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

Peter Lawrence |

َّ َّ ‫ﻋﻤﺎﻧﻴﺎت‬

Impressions of Amman

Visiting Amman frequently over 27 years with a period of residence at the end has allowed me to witness Greater Amman’s 5-fold expansion to a population of nearly 3 million people. My mind’s image of Amman has always been of rolling hills carpeted in uniformly light facades reflecting the colours of the sky, from the rose hues of sunrise through the brilliance of the mid-day sun to the golden umbers and ochres of the evening. Amman has retained its unique feel as the troubles of the region have led people from all directions to migrate and settle in this welcoming city. The traffic jams have worsened but unlike many cities with similar problems the air never seems polluted – a function of its elevation and exposure to cleansing winds. Many years ago I declared my three favourite cities to be Bath in the UK, Venice in Italy and Muscat in Oman. Each of these has for me a very special quality and balance with different architectural styles matched to the unique physical characteristics of their settings. Whilst Amman’s architecture may not match the elegant grandeur of Georgian Bath, and its “7 hills” are not interspersed with the canals and bridges of Venice or the bays and coastlines of Muscat, by walking its streets and discovering the gems of its amazing breadth of history I have to declare Amman to be another of my favourites. Downtown Amman has become chaotic with its influx of people from many parts of the region. To drive through is a challenge… dodging cars, trucks, people and sometimes animals. To walk through is a fascinating experience of life, colour and a cacophony of sounds, and it is an increasing pleasure to spot the remnants of the city’s rich history which still embellish its niches, streets and corners. To walk or drive through with one of Amman’s residents who has a personal reason for loving the city is a particularly special experience and I am privileged to have done so with many of the authors in this book. Amman’s many offerings are, for me, dominated by the magnificent Citadel with its treasures and antiquities. I have enjoyed musical performances on these heights, sitting in the midst of Amman’s urban sprawl, and wondered at the evening’s 360°

Left: Orthodox Cathedral View from Al Kursi Settlement

ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺘﻜﺮرة‬ ّ ‫ﻟﻌﻤﺎن ﺧﻼل اﻟﺴـﻨﻮات اﻟﺴـﺒﻊ واﻟﻌﺸـﺮﻳﻦ اﻟﻔﺎﺋﺘﺔ ﻣﻊ ﻓﺘﺮ ٍة‬ ‫إن زﻳﺎراﺗـﻲ‬ َ ّ ‫ﺗﻮﺳﻊ‬ ّ ‫أﺷﻬﺪ‬ َ ‫ﺧﻤﺲ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﻜﺒﺮى‬ ‫ ﻗﺪ ﺳﻤﺤﺖ ﻟﻲ ﺑﺄن‬،‫ﻣﻦ اﻹﻗﺎﻣﺔ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻨﻬﺎﻳﺔ‬ ّ َ ّ ُ َ ّ ً ّ ‫ إن ﺻﻮرة ﻋﻤﺎن ﻓﻲ‬.‫ات ﻟﻴَﺼﻞ ﻋﺪد ﺳـﻜﺎﻧﻬﺎ إﻟﻰ ﺛﻼﺛﺔ ﻣﻼﻳﻴﻦ ﻧﺴـﻤﺔ ﺗﻘﺮﻳﺒـﺎ‬ ٍ ‫ﻣـﺮ‬ َ َ ‫ﺑﻮاﺟﻬـﺎت ﺿﻮ ٍء‬ ‫ﻣﻨﺤـﺪرات ﻣﻔﺮوﺷـﺔ‬ ‫ﺗـﻼل ذات‬ ‫ذﻫﻨـﻲ ﻛﺎﻧـﺖ وﻻ ﺗـﺰال ﺻﻮرة‬ ِ ٍ ٍ ّ ‫ ﻣﻦ أﻟﻮان ﺷـﺮوق اﻟﺸـﻤﺲ ﺧﻼل ﺗﺄﻟﻘﻬﺎ‬،‫ﻧﺴـﻖ واﺣﺪ ﺗﻌﻜﺲ أﻟﻮان اﻟﺴـﻤﺎء‬ ‫ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ٍ ْ َ ّ ّ ‫ اﺣﺘﻔﻈﺖ‬.‫ إﻟﻰ أﻟﻮان اﻟﻤﺴـﺎء اﻟﺘﺮاﺑﻴﺔ واﻟﺒﺮﺗﻘﺎﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﺼﻔـﺮاء‬،‫ﻓـﻲ ﻣﻨﺘﺼﻒ اﻟﻨﻬـﺎر‬ َ َ ّ ‫اﻟﻨﺎس ﻣﻦ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ‬ ‫ﺖ اﻻﺿﻄﺮاﺑﺎت ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻨﻄﻘـﺔ‬ ِ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن ﺑﺼﻔﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﻔﺮﻳﺪة ﺣﻴـﻦ دﻓﻌ‬ ّ .‫اﻻﺗﺠﺎﻫﺎت إﻟﻰ اﻟﻬﺠﺮة واﻻﺳﺘﻴﻄﺎن ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻤﺘﺎز ﺑﺤﻔﺎوة اﻟﻀﻴﺎﻓﺔ‬ ُ ُّ ْ َ ْ ‫ﻣﺸﻜﻼت‬ ‫ﺗﻮاﺟﻪ‬ ‫ﻣﺪن ﻛﺜﻴﺮة‬ ٍ ٍ ‫ ﻟﻜﻦ ﺑﺨﻼف‬،‫ﺗﻔﺎﻗﻤﺖ ﺣﺪة ازدﺣﺎم ﺣﺮﻛﺔ اﻟﻤﺮور‬ ّ ٌ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻣﻴﺰة ﺑﺴـﺒﺐ ارﺗﻔﺎﻋﻬﺎ‬ َ ‫ وﻫﺬه‬-‫ﻳﺘﻠـﻮث اﻟﺒﺘﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻬﻮاء ﻻ‬ ‫ ﻳﺒـﺪو أن‬،‫ﻣﺸـﺎﺑﻬﺔ‬ ‫وﺗﻌﺮﺿﻬﺎ‬ ّ .‫ﻟﺮﻳﺎح اﻟﺘﻄﻬﻴﺮ‬ َ ّ َ ّ ُ َ‫أﻋﻠ‬ ‫ﺳـﻨﻮات ﻋﺪﻳﺪة أن ُﻣﺪﻧـﻲ اﻟﺜﻼث اﻟﻤﻔﻀﻠﺔ ﻫﻲ ’’ﺑﺎث‘‘ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻤﻠﻜﺔ‬ ‫ﻨﺖ ﻣﻨﺬ‬ ٍ ّ ّ َ َ ّ ّ ‫ إن ﻟﻜﻞ واﺣﺪ ٍة ﻣﻦ ﻫﺬه‬.‫وﻣﺴﻘﻂ ﻓﻲ ﺳﻠﻄﻨﺔ ُﻋﻤﺎن‬ ،‫واﻟﺒﻨﺪﻗﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ إﻳﻄﺎﻟﻴﺎ‬ ،‫اﻟﻤﺘﺤﺪة‬ ً ً ً ً ّ َ ّ ُ ‫ﺗﺘﻨﺎﺳ‬ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺪن ﺑﺎﻟﻨّﺴﺒﺔ‬ ‫إﻟﻲ ﺻﻔﺔ‬ ‫ﺐ‬ ‫ﻣﻌﻤﺎرﻳﺔ ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻔﺔ‬ ‫أﻧﻤﺎط‬ ‫ﺧﺎﺻﺔ ﺟﺪا وﺗﻮازﻧﺎ ﻣﻊ‬ ٍ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎري‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻟﻌﻤﺎن ﻗﺪ ﻻ‬ ‫ وﻣﻊ أن اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ‬.‫اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﻴﺔ اﻟﻔﺮﻳﺪة‬ ‫ﻣـﻊ ﺧﺼﺎﺋﺺ ﻣﻮاﻗﻌﻬﺎ‬

َ َ ّ ،‫اﻟﺠﻮرﺟﻲ وﻻ أﻧﺎﻗﺘﻬﺎ‬ ّ ‫ورﺑﻤﺎ ﻻ‬ ‫ﻳُﻀﺎﻫـﻲ ﻗﻈ َﻤﺔ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﺑﺎث اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻌﻮد إﻟـﻰ اﻟﻌﺼﺮ‬ َ ُّ َ ُ ُ ّ ُ ،‫وﺟﺴﻮرﻫﺎ أو ﺧﻠﺠﺎن َﻣﺴﻘﻂ وﺷﻮاﻃﺌﻬﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺒﻨﺪﻗﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻗﻨﻮات‬ ‘‘‫ﺗﺘﺨﻠﻞ ’’ﺗﻼﻟﻬﺎ اﻟﺴـﺒﻌﺔ‬ ََ َ ّ َ ‫ﺟﻌﻠﻨﻲ‬ ‫آﻳﺎت ﺟﻤﺎل ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﻬﺎ اﻟﻌﺮﻳﻖ اﻟﻤﺪﻫﺶ‬ ِ ‫ﻓﺈن اﻟﺴـﻴﺮ ﻓﻲ ﺷﻮارﻋﻬﺎ واﻛﺘﺸﺎف‬ ٌ ّ ٌ ّ ُ ُ ّ ‫ﻗﻠﺐ‬ ّ ‫أن‬ ُ ‫ ﺻﺎر‬.‫ﻠﺔ ﻋﻨﺪي‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻓﻲ ﺣﺎﻟﺔ ﻓﻮﺿﻰ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻫﻲ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ أﺧﺮى ﻣﻔﻀ‬ ‫أﻋﻠﻦ‬ َ ّ ّ ْ ُ ‫ وﺻـﺎرت ﻗﻴﺎدة اﻟﻤﺮﻛﺒﺔ ﺗﺸـﻜﻞ‬،‫ﻣـﻊ ﺗﺪﻓﻖ اﻟﻨﺎس ﻣـﻦ أرﺟﺎء ﻛﺜﻴـﺮ ٍة ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻨﻄﻘﺔ‬ ّ ً ّ ّ ‫ﻔﺎدي‬ ّ َ َ‫ﺗﺘﻀﻤﻦ ﺗ‬ ‫ﺗﺤﺪﻳًﺎ؛ إذ إﻧﻬﺎ‬ .‫ وأﺣﻴﺎﻧﺎ اﻟﺤﻴﻮاﻧﺎت‬،‫اﻟﺴﻴﺎرات واﻟﺸﺎﺣﻨﺎت واﻟﻨﺎس‬ ٌ ٌ ُ َ ْ ّ َ ّ ّ ‫ ﻛﻤﺎ أن َرﺻﺪ‬،‫ﺗﺠﺮﺑﺔ راﺋﻌﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻠـﻮن واﻟﺤﻴﺎة وﺗﻨﺎﻓﺮ اﻷﺻﻮات‬ ِ ‫إن اﻟﺴـﻴﺮ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻫﻮ‬ ُ َ ّ ،‫وﺷـﻮارﻋﻬﺎ وزواﻳﺎﻫﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﻐﻨﻲ اﻟﺬي ﻻ ﻳﺰال ﻳُﺰﺧﺮف ﺛﻨﺎﻳﺎﻫﺎ‬ ‫ﺑﻘﺎﻳـﺎ ﻣﻦ ﺗﺎرﻳﺦ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ّ ٌ ّ َ َ ّ ّ ّ َ ‫ﻓﻬـﻲ ﻟﻤﺘﻌﺔ ﻣﺘﺰاﻳﺪة! ﻛﻤﺎ أن اﻟﺴـﻴﺮ أو ﻗﻴﺎدة اﻟﺴـﻴﺎرة ﻣﻊ أﺣ ِﺪ ﺳـﻜﺎن ﻋﻤﺎن ﻣﻤﻦ‬ ٌ ّ ً ّ ‫ﺑﺔ‬ ّ ٌ ٌ ّ ‫ﻻﻣﺘﻴﺎز ﻟﻲ أن‬ ‫ وإﻧﻪ‬،‫ﺧﺎﺻﺔ ﺟﺪا‬ ‫ﺗﺠﺮ‬ ِ ‫ ﻫﻮ‬،‫ﻟﺪﻳﻬﻢ ﺳـﺒﺐ ﺷﺨﺼﻲ ﻟﻤﺤﺒﺔ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ َ ُ .‫ﻓﻌﻠﺖ ذﻟﻚ ﻣﻊ اﻟﻌﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﺷﺎرﻛﻮا ﺑﻜﺘﺎﺑﺔ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻜﺘﺎب‬ ‫أﻛﻮن ﻗﺪ‬ ّ ‫ﻴﻤـﻦ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻋﺮوض‬ ُ ‫ ُﻳ َﻬ‬،‫إﻟـﻲ‬ ّ ‫ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴـﺒﺔ‬ ‫ اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ اﻟﻌﻈﻴﻤـﺔ اﻟﺒﺎﻫﺮة‬،‫ﻋﻤـﺎن اﻟﻜﺜﻴـﺮة‬ ّ ُ ،‫اﻟﻤﻮﺳـﻴﻘﻴﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺮﺗﻔﻌﺎت‬ ‫اﺳـﺘﻤﺘﻌﺖ ﺑﺎﻟﻌﺮوض‬ ‫ ﻟﻘﺪ‬.‫ﺑﻜﻨﻮزﻫﺎ وآﺛﺎرﻫﺎ‬ ْ َ َ ُ ّ ّ ‫وﺳـﻂ اﻣﺘـﺪاد‬ ْ ُ ‫وﺟﻠﺴ‬ َ ّ ‫اﻟﭙﺎﻧﻮراﻣﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺸـﺎﻫﺪ‬ ‫ وأدﻫﺸـﺘﻨﻲ‬،‫اﻟﻌﻤﺮاﻧـﻲ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ ‫ـﺖ‬ َ ّ ّ ّ َ ‫أو‬ ِ ‫أو اﻟﻮﻗﻮف‬ ِ ‫ إن اﻟﺴـﻴﺮ‬.‫اﻟﻤﺴـﺎﺋﻴﺔ ﻟﻠﺼـﻮت واﻟﺼـﻮرة ﻓـﻲ ﻛﻞ أﻧﺤﺎء اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬

‫ ﻣﻨﻈﺮ ﻟﻠﻜﻨﻴﺴﺔ ﺍﻷﺭﺛﻮﺫﻛﺴﻴّﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻣﻨﻄﻘﺔ ﺍﻟﻜﺮﺳﻲ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬

‫ﭘﻴﺮﺘ ﻟﻮرﻧﺲ‬

panorama of sights and sounds of the city around. To walk, stand and sit in this elevated place at different times of the day is special indeed… the colourful history of Amman extends all around from this central point. I am fascinated and sometimes amused by the way Jordan’s unparalleled treasures of lost civilizations appear randomly in people’s homes, beside the roads or incorporated into building structures - I have seen ornate Corinthian column heads from Roman times used as coffee tables and carved figures adorning walls and gardens. I am fortunate indeed to have had the opportunity to complete my long engineering career with a period of residence in Amman and to offer my watercolour renderings of the country as published works. It was my interest in music and my joining Amman’s Dozan wa Awtar singers that led me, indirectly, to Jabal Amman Publishers, and Sinan Sweis and his team proved to be professional and talented people to work with on our publication Colours of Jordan. I was happy to accept Sinan’s challenge to produce another book focused on the city of Amman… I began a journey of deeper discovery. It was at a jolly supper party that Samar Dudin began to recount to me her childhood memories of Jabel Weibdeh and this seeded the concept of complementing my paintings

Sketch of Jara Nap- an elderly Bedouin lady regularly sells her jewellry and kelims at Jara Market

ٌ َ َ ‫أوﻗـﺎت ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻔ ٍﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻴـﻮم ﻫﻮ َﺣﺪث‬ ‫اﻟﺠﻠـﻮس ﻓـﻲ ﻫـﺬا اﻟﻤﻜﺎن اﻟﻤﺮﺗﻔـﻊ ﻓﻲ‬ ٍ ّ ُ ّ ُ ّ ّ ‫وﺗﺎرﻳـﺦ‬ ‫ﻣـﻜﺎن ﻣﻦ ﻫﺬه‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن اﻟﺤﺎﻓـﻞ ﻳﻤﺘﺪ ﺣﻮﻟﻬﺎ ﻓـﻲ ﻛﻞ‬ .‫ﺧـﺎص ﺑﺎﻟﻔﻌـﻞ‬ ٍ ُ ُ ّ ّ ً ُ ٌ ُ ‫ﻀﺤﻜﻨﻲ أﺣﻴﺎﻧﺎ اﻟﻄﺮﻳﻘـﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ‫ﺗﻈﻬﺮ ﺑﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ‬ ِ ‫ وﺗ‬،‫ إﻧﻲ ﻣﺄﺧـﻮذ‬.‫اﻟﻨﻘﻄـﺔ اﻟﻤﺮﻛﺰﻳﺔ‬ ّ ُ ّ ‫ﺑﺸـﻜﻞ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻀﺎرات اﻟﺒﺎﺋﺪة اﻟﺘﻲ ﻻ ﻣﺜﻴﻞ ﻟﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻛﻨـﻮز‬ ‫اﻷردن‬ ‫ﻋﺸـﻮاﺋﻲ ﻓﻲ ﺑﻴﻮت‬ ِ ٍ ً َ ُ َ ُ ‫رؤوس أﻋﻤﺪ ٍة‬ ‫رأﻳﺖ‬ -‫ﺪﻣﺠﺔ ﻓـﻲ ﻫﻴﺎﻛﻞ اﻷﺑﻨﻴﺔ‬ ‫ أو ﺑﺠﺎﻧﺐ اﻟﻄﺮق أو ﻣ‬،‫اﻟﻨـﺎس‬ ُ ّ َ ّ ُ َ ‫ﻛﻮرﻧﺜﻴـﺔ ُﻣ‬ ‫ﺰﺧﺮﻓـﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻷزﻣﻨـﺔ اﻟﺮوﻣﺎﻧﻴﺔ ﺗﺴـﺘﺨﺪم ﺑﻮﺻﻔﻬﺎ‬ ،‫ﻃـﺎوﻻت ﻟﻠﻘﻬﻮة‬ ٍ ً َ ً ّ ُ‫ﻣﺤﻔﻮرة ﺗ‬ ُ .‫ﺰﻳﻦ اﻟﺠﺪران واﻟﺤﺪاﺋﻖ‬ ‫رأﻳﺖ أﺷـﻜﺎﻻ‬ ‫ﻛﻤﺎ‬ ُ ْ ً ٌ َ ُ‫ﺑﺄن ﺗ‬ ‫ﺘﺎح ﻟﻲ ﻓﺮﺻﺔ إﻛﻤﺎل ﻣﺴـﻴﺮﻲﺗ اﻟﻄﻮﻳﻠﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻬﻨﺔ اﻟﻬﻨﺪﺳﺔ‬ ‫أﻧﺎ ﻣﺤﻈﻮظ ﺣﻘﺎ‬ ُ ّ ّ ّ ‫ وﻓﺮﺻﺔ ﺗﻘﺪﻳﻢ رﺳـﻮﻣﺎﺗﻲ ﺑﺎﻷﻟـﻮان اﻟﻤﺎﺋﻴﺔ ﻋﻦ اﻷردن‬،‫ﺑﻔﺘـﺮ ِة إﻗﺎﻣ ٍﺔ ﻓـﻲ ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ً َ ّ ً ‫ ﻛﺎن اﻫﺘﻤﺎﻣﻲ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﻮﺳـﻴﻘﻰ واﻧﻀﻤﺎﻣـﻲ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﻐﻨﻴﻦ ﻓﻲ‬.‫ﻣﻨﺸـﻮرا‬ ‫ﻟﺘﻜﻮن ﻋﻤﻼ‬ َ ّ ‫ﻓﺮﻗـﺔ ’’دوزان وأوﺗـﺎر‘‘ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ ﻫﻮ ﻣـﺎ ﻗﺎدﻧﻲ ﺑﻄﺮﻳﻘ ٍﺔ ﻏﻴﺮ ﻣﺒﺎﺷـﺮة إﻟﻰ دار‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ُ ُ ّ ّ ‫ﻧﺸـﺮ ’’ﺟﺒﻞ‬ َ ‫ﺣﻴﺚ‬ ُ ‫ﻣﺪﻳﺮﻫﺎ‬ ‫أﺛﺒﺖ‬ ،‘‘‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻧﺎﺷـﺮون‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺎم ﺳﻨﺎن ﺻﻮﻳﺺ وﻓﺮﻳﻘﻪ‬ ً ّ ٌ َ ‫أﺷـﺨﺎص ﻣﺤﺘَﺮﻓـﻮن‬ ُ ‫ﻛﺘﺎب‬ ‫ﻓﻌﻤﻠﺖ ﻣﻌﻬﻢ ﺳـﺎﺑﻘﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ إﺻﺪار‬ ،‫وﻣﻮﻫﻮﺑﻮن‬ ‫أﻧﻬﻢ‬ ِ .‘‘‫’’أﻟـﻮان اﻷردن‬

ّ َ ّ ً ّ ‫ﻳﺮﻛﺰ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ُ .‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ﻛﺘﺎب آﺧﺮ‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ ﺳـﻌﻴﺪا ﺑﻘﺒﻮل ﺗﺤﺪي ﺳـﻨﺎن ﻹﺻﺪار‬ ٍ َ ُ ‫ ﺑﺪأت ﺳـﻤﺮ دودﻳﻦ‬،‫ ﻓﻲ ﺣﻔﻞ ﻋﺸـﺎ ٍء ُﻣﺒﻬﺞ‬.‫اﻛﺘﺸـﺎف أﻋﻤﻖ‬ ‫ﺑﺪأت رﺣﻠﺔ‬ ‫وﻫﻨـﺎ‬ ٍ ْ َ ُ َ ُ ّ ِ‫ ﻓﺼـﺎرت ﻫﺬه ﻧـﻮاة ﻣﻔﻬﻮم‬،‫ﺗﺴـﺮد ﻋﻠـﻲ ذﻛﺮﻳـﺎت ﻃﻔﻮﻟﺘﻬﺎ ﻓـﻲ ﺟﺒـﻞ اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒﺪة‬ َ ّ ‫اﻟﺸـﺨﺼﻴﺔ ﻋـﻦ ﻫـﺬه اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬ ‫ﺗﻜ ِﻤﻠـﺔ ﻟﻮﺣﺎﺗـﻲ ﺑﺴﻠﺴـﻠ ٍﺔ ﻣـﻦ اﻻﻧﻄﺒﺎﻋـﺎت‬

‫ﺳﻴﺪﺓ ﺑﺪﻭﻳﱡﺔ ﻋﺠﻮﺯ ﺗﺒﻴﻊ ﺍﻟﻤﺠﻮﻫﺮﺍﺕ ﻭﺍﻟﺒﺴﻂ ﻓﻲ ﺳﻮﻕ ﺟﺎﺭﺓ‬ ّ -‫ﺳﻜﺘﺶ ﻗﻴﻠﻮﻟﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺳﻮﻕ ﺟﺎﺭﺍ‬

with a series of personal impressions of this fascinating city. I treasure deeply the cross-section of Amman’s society that I have been privileged to meet, and from HRH Princess Muna to each of the authors I have to express my deepest thanks for the support, encouragement and sharing of experiences that have come together in Impressions of Amman. Their heartfelt writings about the city, skilfully and elegantly assembled by the JAP team, have brought together a tapestry of history and knowledge of which I am proud to be a part.

Ancient Walls Next page: Our View

ً ّ ّ ‫ﺟﺪا ﺑﺸﺮاﺋﺢ ﻣﺠﺘﻤﻊ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻋﻠﻰ اﺧﺘﻼﻓﻬﺎ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺎن ﻟﻲ ﺷﺮف‬ ‫ أﻋﺘﺰ‬.‫اﻟﺴـﺎﺣﺮة‬ ُ ّ ّ ‫ ﻟﺼﺎﺣﺒﺔ‬،‫ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻘﺎم اﻷول‬،‫ وﻻ ﺑﺪ ﻟﻲ ﻣﻦ أن أﻋﺮب ﻋﻦ ﻋﻤﻴﻖ ﺷـﻜﺮي‬،‫ﻟﻘﺎﺋﻬﺎ‬ ّ ّ ّ .‫ ﻋﻠﻰ دﻋﻤﻬﻢ وﺗﺸـﺠﻴﻌﻬﻢ‬،‫ﻛﺎﺗﺐ‬ ‫ وﻟﻜﻞ‬،‫اﻟﻤﻠﻜﻲ اﻷﻣﻴﺮة ﻣﻨﻰ‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﻤﻮ‬ ٍ ّ َ َ ُ ‫ﻓﺮﻳﻖ دار ’’ﺟﺒﻞ‬ ‫ﺟﻤﻌﻬﺎ‬ ‫ واﻟﺘﻲ‬،‫إن ﻛﺘﺎﺑﺎﺗِﻬﻢ اﻟﺼﺎدرة ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﻠﺐ ﻋﻦ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ َ ّ ْ ً ً ‫ﺖ‬ ّ ‫ﻧﺴﻴﺠﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺘﺎرﻳﺦ واﻟﻤﻌﺮﻓﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﻌﺎ‬ ‫ ﻗﺪ ﺷﻜﻠ‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻧﺎﺷﺮون‘‘ ﺑﻤﻬﺎرة وأﻧﺎﻗﺔ‬

ْ َ َ ً ‫أﻓﺨ ُﺮ ﺑﺄن أﻛﻮن‬ .‫ﺟﺰءا ﻣﻨﻪ‬

‫ﺃﺳﻮﺍﺭ ﻋﺘﻴﻘﺔ‬ ‫ ﺍﻟﻤﺸﻬﺪ ﻣﻦ ﺑﻴﺘﻨﺎ‬:‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

‫‪29‬‬

‫‪From our balcony in Al Kursi towards the‬‬ ‫‪Dead Sea – a much loved view adorned each‬‬ ‫‪evening by a diﬀerent sunset.‬‬

‫ُ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻨﻈـﺮ ﻫـﻮ ﻣﻦ ﺷـﺮﻓﺔ ﻣﻨﺰﻟﻨﺎ ﻓـﻲ ﻣﻨﻄﻘﺔ اﻟﻜﺮﺳـﻲ ﻧﺤﻮ‬ ‫ُ ّ‬ ‫ّ ٌ ً‬ ‫اﻟﺒﺤﺮ ّ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ﺑﺄﻟﻮان‬ ‫ﺐ ﺟﺪا ﻳﺰدان ﻛﻞ ﻣﺴـﺎ ٍء‬ ‫ﻣﻨﻈﺮ ﻣﺤﺒ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻴﺖ‪-‬‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻔ ٍﺔ ﻟﻐﺮوب اﻟﺸﻤﺲ‪.‬‬

Amman’s 10 Millenia

Philadelphia In the Hellenistic period, from BC 323-64, Ptolemy II Philadelphus (who reigned from BC285 – 247) named the city Philadelphia. A series of territorial fights by Ptolemis and the Seleucids followed before it was included in the Roman Empire during the 1st Century BC and became a part of the Decapolis City System. At this time Amman was also a part of the Nabataean Kingdom. In AD 106 after the annexation of Petra, the city came under Roman control and from AD 111-114 the Via Nova Traiana was built from Bosra to the Red Sea via Amman. In AD 160-170 the Temple of Hercules was dedicated on the Citadel. During the Byzantine Era (AD 4th-7thC) many churches were built within the city which became the seat of the bishopric.

Rabbat Ammon Ain Ghazzal has the earliest yet found remains in the city dating from BC 7200 to 5000, and reed and plastered statues can be seen in the museum at the Citadel from this period. Moving forward to BC 1700, there are the remains of a Bronze Age temple complex at Marka in the East. In the Iron Age Amman was named Rabbat Ammon and was capital of the Ammonite Kingdom before it was invaded by the Assyrians followed by the Persians who remained in control until 332 when Alexander of Syria and Palestine conquered.

ّ ّ ‫َرﺑﺔ ﻋﻤﻮن‬ َ َ ‫أﻗـﺪم ﺑﻘﺎﻳـﺎ اﻵﺛـﺎر اﻟﺘﻲ ُو ِﺟـﺪت ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﺗﺤـﻮي ﻣﻨﻄﻘـﺔ ﻋﻴـﻦ ﻏﺰال‬ ُ ُ َ ،‫م‬.‫ ق‬٥٠٠٠‫ و‬٧٢٠٠ ‫ وﻳﻌﻮد ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﻬﺎ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻔﺘـﺮة ﻣﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ ﻋﺎﻣﻲ‬،‫اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬ َ َ ُ ّ ٌ ُ ‫ﻳﻤﻜﻦ أن ﺗﺸﺎﻫﺪ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺘﺤﻒ‬ ‫اﻟﺠﺺ‬ ‫أﻣﺸـﺎط وﺗﻤﺎﺛﻴﻞ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫وﻫﻨﺎك‬ ْ ََ ُ ً ،‫م‬.‫ ق‬١٧٠٠ ‫ وإذا اﻧﺘﻘﻠﻨﺎ إﻟﻰ ﻋﺎم‬.‫اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ ﺗﻌﻮد إﻟﻰ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟﺤﻘﺒﺔ أﻳﻀﺎ‬ َ ّ ّ ‫ﻟﻤﻌﺒﺪ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻨﻄﻘﺔ ﻣﺎرﺎﻛ‬ ‫اﻟﺒﺮوﻧﺰي‬ ‫آﺛﺎر ﻣﻦ اﻟﻌﺼﺮ‬ ٍ ٍ ‫ﻓﺈﻧﻨﺎ ﺳﻨﺮى ﺑﻘﺎﻳﺎ‬ ّ ‫رﺑﺔ‬ ّ ُ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﺗ‬ ّ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬،‫اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺪي‬ ّ ‫ﺷﺮق‬ ّ ‫ﺴﻤﻰ‬ ّ ،‫ﻋﻤﻮن‬ ‫ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻌﺼﺮ‬.‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ً ّ ّ َ ّ ،‫اﻷﺷـﻮرﻳﻮن‬ ‫ﻳﺠﺘﺎﺣﻬﺎ‬ ‫ ﻗﺒﻞ أن‬،‫اﻟﻌﻤﻮﻧﻴﻴﻦ‬ ‫وﺎﻛن ﻋﺎﺻﻤـﺔ ﻟﻤﻤﻠﻜـﺔ‬ ّ ُ ّ ،‫م‬.‫ ق‬٣٣٢ ‫وﻣﻦ ﺑﻌﺪﻫﻢ اﻟﻔﺮس واﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﻇﻠﻮا ﻓﻲ اﻟﺤﻜﻢ ﺣﺘﻰ ﻋﺎم‬ ُ .‫اﻹﺳﻜﻨﺪر اﻷﻛﺒﺮ اﻟﻤﻨﻄﻘﺔ‬ ‫وﻫﻲ اﻟﺴﻨﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻏﺰا ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬

‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﺴﻠﺴﻞ اﻟﺰﻣﻲﻨ ﻤﻟﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻋﻤﺎن‬

‫‪31‬‬

‫ﻓﻴﻼدﻟﻔﻴﺎ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫)اﻹﻏﺮﻳﻘﻴﺔ( ﻣﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﺎﻣﻲ ‪ ٣٢٣‬و‪ ٦٤‬ق‪.‬م‪ ،‬أﻃ ِﻠ َﻖ‬ ‫اﻟﻴﻮﻧﺎﻧﻴـﺔ‬ ‫ﻓـﻲ اﻟﺤﻘﺒﺔ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫اﺳـﻢ ﻓﻴﻼدﻟﻔﻴﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ وذﻟﻚ ﻓﻲ ﻓﺘﺮة ﺣﻜﻢ ﺑﻄﻠﻴﻤﻮس اﻟﺜﺎﻧﻲ‬

‫ﻓﻴﻼدﻟﻔﻮس ﻣﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ َ‬ ‫ﻋﺎﻣﻲ ‪ ٢٨٥‬و‪ ٢٤٧‬ق‪.‬م‪ .‬وﺑﻌﺪ ﺳﻠﺴـﻠ ٍﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻌﺎرك‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ُ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺖ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ إﻟﻰ‬ ‫اﻟﻄﺎﺣﻨﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻷرض ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﺒﻄﺎﻟﻤﺔ واﻟﺴﻠﻮﻗﻴﻴﻦ‪ ،‬ﺿﻤ ِ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺮوﻣﺎﻧﻴﺔ ﺧﻼل اﻟﻘﺮن ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻴﻼدي‪ ،‬وﺻﺎرت ً‬ ‫اﻷول‬ ‫اﻹﻣﺒﺮاﻃﻮرﻳـﺔ‬ ‫ﺟﺰءا‬

‫ﻣﻦ ﻣﻨﻈﻮﻣﺔ ’’اﻟﻤﺪن اﻟﻌﺸـﺮ‘‘ أو ’’اﻟﺪﻳﻜﺎﭘﻮﻟﻴﺲ‘‘‪ .‬ﻓﻲ ذﻟﻚ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‪،‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ﻛﺎﻧـﺖ ّ‬ ‫أﻳﻀـﺎ‪ .‬ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم ‪١٠٦‬م ﺑﻌﺪ ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ً‬ ‫ﺿﻢ‬ ‫ﺟﺰءا ﻣﻦ ﻣﻤﻠﻜﺔ اﻷﻧﺒﺎط‬

‫اﻟﺮوﻣﺎﻧﻴﺔ‪ ،‬ﺻﺎرت ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﺗﺤﺖ‬ ‫اﻹﻣﺒﺮاﻃﻮرﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ اﻟﺒﺘﺮاء إﻟﻰ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺮوﻣﺎﻧﻲ ﺗﻤﺎﻣﺎ‪ ،‬وﺎﻛﻧﺖ ﺗﻘﻊ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻄﺮﻳﻖ اﻟﺬي ﺑﻨﺎه اﻟﺮوﻣﺎن‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻜﻢ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﻔﺘﺮة ﻣﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ ‪١١٤-١١١‬م‪ ،‬واﻟﻤﺴﻤﻰ ﻃﺮﻳﻖ ﺗﺮاﺟﺎن اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪ‪ ،‬واﻟﺬي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻳﻤﺘﺪ ﻣﻦ ﺑُﺼﺮى اﻟﺸـﺎم إﻟﻰ اﻟﺒﺤﺮ اﻷﺣﻤﺮ‪ .‬ﻓﻲ اﻟﻔﺘﺮة ﻣﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ ‪١٧٠-١٦٠‬م‪،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُﺷ ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺒﻴﺰﻧﻄﻴﺔ )ﻣﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ‬ ‫ـﻴﺪ ﻣﻌﺒﺪ ِﻫ َﺮﻗﻞ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ‪ .‬وﺧﻼل اﻟﺤﻘﺒﺔ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻴﻼدي(‪ ،‬ﺑُ ِﻨ َ‬ ‫ـﻲ اﻟﻌﺪﻳﺪ ﻣـﻦ اﻟﻜﻨﺎﺋﺲ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﻘﺮﻧﻴـﻦ اﻟﺮاﺑـﻊ واﻟﺴـﺎﺑﻊ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‪ ،‬وﺻﺎرت ﺣﻴﻨﻬﺎ ﻛﺮﺳﻴًﺎ أﺳﻘﻔﻴًﺎ‪.‬‬

‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫اﻷﻣﻮﻳﻮن‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻴﻼدي‪ ،‬ﺑﻨﻰ اﻟﺤﻜﺎم‬ ‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﺴـﺎﺑﻊ‬ ‫ﻗﺼﺮﻫﻢ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﺒﻞ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ‪ ،‬وﻋﺎد إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨ ِﺔ اﺳـﻢ ﻋﻤﺎن‪ .‬ﻓﻲ اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻤﻴﻼدي اﻟﺮاﺑﻊ ﻋﺸﺮ‪،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َُ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ﺿﺮﺑﻬﺎ‬ ‫ـﺪ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻣﺄﻫﻮﻟﺔ ﺳـﻮى ﺑﺒﻌﺾ اﻟﺴـﻜﺎن‪ ،‬وذﻟﻚ ﺑﻌـﺪ أن‬ ‫ﻟـﻢ ﻳﻌ ِ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ ُ ُّ‬ ‫ﺎب اﻟﻌﺮب ﺣﻴﻨﻬﺎ‪،‬‬ ‫ﻋـﺪد ﻣﻦ اﻟﺰﻻزل‪ ،‬وﻗﺪ وﺻﻔﻬﺎ أﺑﻮ اﻟﻔﻀـﺔ‪ ،‬أﺣﺪ اﻟﻜﺘ ِ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺑﺄﻧﻬﺎ آﺛﺎر‪ .‬وﺧﻼل ُﺣﻜﻢ اﻟﻌﺜﻤﺎﻧﻴﻴﻦ ﻓﻲ اﻷردن )‪١٩١٦-١٥١٦‬م(‪ ،‬ﺻﺎرت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن ً‬ ‫ﺟﺰءا ﻣﻦ وﻻﻳﺔ ﺳـﻮرﻳﺎ‪ .‬و أواﺧﺮ اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﺘﺎﺳـﻊ ﻋﺸـﺮ‪ ،‬ﺑﺪأت‬ ‫أﻓـﻮاج اﻟﺸـﺮﻛﺲ ﺗﺘﻌﺎﻗَ ُ‬ ‫ﺐ ﻣﻦ ﺑﻼد اﻟﻘﻮﻗﺎز‪ .‬و اﻟﻌﻘـﺪ ّ‬ ‫اﻷول ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﺮن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﺠﺎزي اﻟﺬي ﻳﺮﺑﻂ ﻣﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺪي‬ ‫اﻟﺨﻂ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺜﻤﺎﻧﻴﻮن‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺸـﺮﻳﻦ أﻧﺸـﺄ‬

‫ّ‬ ‫ﻣﺮورا ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺑﻌﻤـﺎن‪ .‬ﺑﻌﺪ ﻗﻴﺎم اﻟﺜـﻮرة‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻨـﻮرة‬ ‫ﺑﻴـﻦ دﻣﺸـﻖ واﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻜﺒﺮى ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم ‪١٩١٦‬م‪ ،‬ﺻﺎر ِت اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﺗﺤﺖ اﻻﻧﺘﺪاب‬ ‫اﻟﺒﺮﻳﻄﺎﻧﻲ‪ .‬و‬ ‫َ‬ ‫اﻷول ﺣﻴﻨﻬﺎ ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫اﺧﺘـﺎر اﻷﻣﻴﺮ ﻋﺒﺪاﷲ ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن ﻟﺘﻜﻮن ﻋﺎﺻﻤﺔ‬ ‫ﻋـﺎم ‪١٩٢١‬م‪،‬‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ ْ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫إﻣـﺎرة ﺷـﺮق اﻷردن‪ ،‬وﻗﺪ ﻇﻠﺖ ﻋﺎﺻﻤـﺔ اﻟﻤﻤﻠﻜﺔ اﻷردﻧﻴﺔ اﻟﻬﺎﺷـﻤﻴﺔ؛‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫َ‬ ‫وﺗُ ّﻮ َج ﻋﺒـﺪاﷲ ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﻜ ّ‬ ‫ﺎﻧﻲ‬ ‫اﻷول ﻣﻠﻜﺎ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ ﻋﺎم ‪١٩٤٦‬م‪ .‬ازداد اﻟﺘﻌﺪاد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻔﻠﺴـﻄﻴﻨﻴﻴﻦ ﻣﻦ أراﺿﻴﻬﻢ‪،‬‬ ‫ﻧﺤﻮ واﺿﺢ ﺑﻌﺪ ﺗﻬﺠﻴﺮ‬ ‫ﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻋﻤﺎن ﻋﻠﻰ ٍ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ووﺻـﻮل اﻟﻼﺟﺌﻴﻦ ﻣﻨﻬﻢ ﻋﺎم ‪١٩٤٨‬م‪ ،‬إﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ وﺻﻮل ﻣﻮﺟﺔ اﻟﻨﺎزﺣﻴﻦ‬ ‫َ ْ‬ ‫ت ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن وﺻﻮل أﻋﺪا ٍد‬ ‫اﻟﻔﻠﺴـﻄﻴﻨﻴﻴﻦ ﻋﺎم ‪١٩٦٧‬م‪ .‬وﺑﻌﺪ ﺳﻨﻮات‪ ،‬ﺷـﻬﺪ‬ ‫ﻣـﻦ اﻟﻌﺎﺋﺪﻳﻦ ﻣـﻦ اﻟﻜﻮﻳﺖ إﺑّﺎن ﺣﺮب اﻟﺨﻠﻴﺞ اﻟﺜﺎﻧﻴـﺔ ﻋﺎم ‪١٩٩١‬م‪ ،‬ﻛﻤﺎ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫اﺳﺘﻘﺒَﻠﺖ أﻋﺪادا أﺧﺮى ﻣﻦ اﻟﺒﺸﺮ ﺑﻌﺪ ﻏﺰو اﻟﻌﺮاق ﻋﺎم ‪٢٠٠٣‬م‪.‬‬

‫‪Amman‬‬ ‫‪In the 7thC Umayyad rulers built their palace on‬‬ ‫‪the Citadel and the city was renamed Amman. In‬‬ ‫‪the 14th C the city was sparsely inhabited, having‬‬ ‫‪suffered many earthquakes, and was described by‬‬ ‫‪Abul Fida, an Arab writer, as a ruin. During the‬‬ ‫‪Ottoman period (1516-1916) Amman became a‬‬ ‫‪Wilayet of Syria. In the late 19thC the Circassians‬‬ ‫‪from the Caucasus began to move to the city and‬‬ ‫‪in1900-1908 the Ottomans constructed the Hejaz‬‬ ‫‪railway running from Damascus to Medina via‬‬ ‫‪Amman. After the Great Arab Revolt in 1916, the‬‬ ‫‪city fell under the British Mandate. In 1921 Abdul‬‬‫‪lah I chose Amman to be the seat of government‬‬ ‫‪for the Emirate of Transjordan and it remained‬‬ ‫;‪the capital for the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan‬‬ ‫‪Abdullah I was crowned king in 1946. The popula‬‬‫‪tion of Amman expanded significantly due to an‬‬ ‫‪influx of Palestinian refugees which took place in‬‬ ‫‪1948 and1967 and from Kuwait due to the 1991‬‬ ‫‪Gulf War. The 2003 US Invasion of Iraq again‬‬ ‫‪brought many people to Amman.‬‬

Amman, the Jasmine Like a jasmine... Amman climbs aged stairwells and surrounds the intimate stone walls, its perfume wafting over its houses like clouds. Her stairs rise up as ancient prayers of absent grandmothers. Her mountains fold their wings at night like eagles. And the street which was calligraphed between two verses of old poetry remembers wayfarers...

and your cheeks are like pomegranates under your veil. Your lips are made of wild honey mixed with the scent of ﬂowers. How beautiful you are, and how beautiful are your necklaces! You are a palm tree... I said I would climb the palm tree and eat from its branches.

wayfarers who have crossed Amman’s stream... You are the dove tower... Bedouins and peasants who have sold their grapes near the stream and bought silk for their women.

I said I would climb the tower and choose the most beautiful, purest dove, the white one, the white collared dove.

She is a brunette among cities and women with old tattoos and Henna.

You are the glittering spring...

Her anklet jingles on the road as she passes the nymphs’ fountain towards the old temple.

I said I will drink from the spring with my hands and wash my hair and become infatuated with you...

Her black braids halt knights. Even horses refrain from trotting in honor of the lady of the mysterious anklet.

Infatuated with you as you walk at the edge of the stream carrying your coquettish jar...

As if she were still here in the theater watching an old play accompanied by her lover, she raises her hand to cheer, and her bracelets dance to the music.

I am infatuated as you grow and walk from the edge of the stream to the outskirts of the surrounding villages.

The beautiful among women and cities, Ammon, who is sitting on the hill over the mountain citadel watering basil pots, singing mysterious songs and waiting for the sunrise.

As if you were a jasmine with your beautiful stalk, your leaves, your perfume, your vanity and your femininity, embracing windows with dim lights and a lot of love... climbing the stairs...

Knights passed under her terrace, and their horses neighed. Heroes sought her aﬀection, but she averted her eyes away as a daughter of nobles.

Amman’s stairs that are rising up like prayers, like supplications rising up to heaven".

Poets lauded her, and she half closed her dark eyes and sighed. “Your eyes are beautiful, oh daughter of the honourable", the poet said, Jeryes Samawi Jordanian poet

Previous page: Jabal Amman Viewed from The Citadel

‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻴﺎﺳﻤﻴﻨﺔ ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ﻛﺎﻟﻴﺎﺳﻤﻴﻨﺔ‪ ..‬ﺗﺮﺗﻘﻲ ً‬ ‫ﻋﺘﻴﻘﺎ‪ ..‬ﺗﻠﺘَ ّﻒ ﺣﻮل ﺣﺠﺎرة ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺴﻮر اﻟﺤﻤﻴﻤﺔ‪،‬‬ ‫درﺟﺎ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫وﺗﺮﻓﻊ‬ ‫ﻋﻄﺮﻫﺎ ﻛﺎﻟﻐﻴﻢ ﻓﻮق ﺑﻴﻮﺗِﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ُ َ‬ ‫ات ﻏﺎﺋﺒﺎت‪ .‬وﺟﺒﺎﻟﻬﺎ ﺗﺨﻔﺾ أﺟﻨﺤﺘَﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﻠﻮات ﻋﺘﻴﻘ ٍﺔ ﻟﺠـﺪ ٍ‬ ‫ﺑﺄدراﺟﻬـﺎ ﺗﺮﺗﻔﻊ ﻛﺼ ٍ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻠﻴﻞ ﻛﺎﻟﻨﺴﻮر‪.‬‬

‫َ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ُ ّ‬ ‫ّ َ‬ ‫َ ْ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫اﻟﻜﺤﻼوﻳﻦ ﻧﺼﻒ إﻏﻤﺎﺿ ٍﺔ وﺗﻨﻬﺪت‪.‬‬ ‫اﻟﺸﻌﺮاء ﺗﻐﻨﻮا ﺑﻬﺎ ﻓﺄﻏﻤﻀﺖ ﻋﻴﻨﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻋﻴﻨﺎك ﺟﻤﻴﻠﺘﺎن ﻳﺎ َ‬ ‫ﺑﻨﺖ اﻟﻜﺮﻳﻢ‪ ،‬ﻗﺎل اﻟﺸﺎﻋﺮ‪.‬‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺷﻔﺘﺎك ﻣﻦ ﻋﺴﻞ ّ‬ ‫ﺧﺪاك ّ‬ ‫ﺑﺮ ّي ﻣﻤﺰوج ﺑﻌﻄﺮ اﻟﻮرد‪.‬‬ ‫ﻛﺎﻟﺮﻣﺎن ﻣﻦ ﺗﺤﺖ ﻧﻘﺎﺑﻚ‪.‬‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫أﺟﻤﻠﻚ ﻛﻠ ِﻚ وﻣﺎ أﺟﻤﻞ ﻗﻼﺋﺪ ِك!‬ ‫ﻣﺎ‬ ‫ِ‬

‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ﻳﺘﺬﻛ ُﺮ اﻟﻌﺎﺑﺮﻳﻦ‪ :‬ﻋﺎﺑﺮون ّ‬ ‫ﺷﻌﺮ ﻗﺪﻳﻢ‬ ‫ﻣﺮوا ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫واﻟﺸﺎرع اﻟﻤﺮﺳﻮم ﺑﻴﻦ ﻋﺒﺎرﺗﻴﻦ ﻣﻦ ٍ‬ ‫َﺳﻴﻞ ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‪..‬‬

‫أﻧﺖ اﻟﻨﺨﻠﺔ‪..‬‬ ‫ِ‬

‫ٌ ّ‬ ‫ً ّ‬ ‫ﺑﺪو وﻓﻼﺣﻮن ﺑﺎﻋﻮا ﻋﻨﺒَﻬﻢ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺴﻴﻞ واﺷﺘَﺮوا‬ ‫ﺣﺮﻳﺮا ﻟﻠﻨﺴﺎء‪.‬‬

‫ُ‬ ‫ﻗﻠﺖ‪َ :‬‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫أﺻﻌ ُﺪ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻨﺨﻠﺔ وآﻛﻞ ﻣﻦ ﻋﺬوﻗﻬﺎ‪.‬‬

‫ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﻤﺮاء ﺑﻴﻦ‬ ‫وﻫﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺪن واﻟﻨﺴـﺎ ِء ﺻﺎﺣﺒﺔ اﻟﻮﺷـﻢ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻢ واﻟﺤﻨﺎء‪ .‬ﻳﺮن ﺧﻠﺨﺎﻟﻬﺎ‬ ‫ِ‬

‫أﻧﺖ ُ‬ ‫ﺑﺮج اﻟﺤﻤﺎم‪..‬‬ ‫ِ‬

‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﻄﺮﻳﻖ وﻫﻲ ّ‬ ‫ﺗﻤﺮ ﻣﻦ ﺳﺒﻴﻞ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻮرﻳﺎت ﺑﺎﺗﺠﺎه اﻟﻤﻌﺒﺪ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻢ‪.‬‬

‫ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وأﻧﻘﺎﻫﻦ‪..‬‬ ‫أﺻﻌﺪ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺒﺮج وأﻧﺘﻘﻲ أﺟﻤﻞ اﻟﺤﻤﺎﻣﺎت‬ ‫ﻗﻠﺖ‪:‬‬

‫ُ‬ ‫ّ َ ُ‬ ‫ُ ُ ُ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫اﺣﺘﻔﺎء ﺑِ ِﻤﺸﻴَﺔ‬ ‫ﺤﺠ ُﻢ ﻋﻦ اﻟﻤﺴﻴﺮ‬ ‫ﺟﺪاﺋﻠﻬﺎ اﻟﺴﻮد ﺗﺴﺘﻮﻗﻒ اﻟﻔﺮﺳﺎن‪ .‬اﻟﺨﻴﻞ ذاﺗﻬﺎ ﺗ ِ‬

‫اﻟﺒﻴﻀﺎء اﻟﺒﻴﻀﺎء ذات اﻟﻄﻮق‪.‬‬

‫ﺻﺎﺣﺒﺔ اﻟﺨﻠﺨﺎل اﻟﻐﺎﻣﺾ‪.‬‬

‫ّ‬ ‫َ ْ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺴـﺮﺣﻴﺎت‬ ‫ﺗﺸـﺎﻫﺪ إﺣﺪى‬ ‫اﻟﻤـﺪرج اﻟﻜﺒﻴﺮ‬ ‫ﻛﺄﻧﻬـﺎ ﻣـﺎ زاﻟـﺖ ﻫﻨﺎ ﻋﻠـﻰ أدراج‬ ‫اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤﺔ ﺑﺮﻓﻘﺔ ﺣﺒﻴﺒﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ َ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫أﺳﺎورﻫﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﻮﺳﻴﻘﻰ‪.‬‬ ‫ﺗﺮﻓﻊ ﻳﺪﻫﺎ ﻟﻠﺘﻬﻠﻴﻞ ﻓﺘﺮﻗﺺ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻠﺔ ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﻨﺴﺎء واﻟﻤﺪن‪..‬‬

‫أﻧﺖ اﻟﻨﺒﻊ ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺮﻗﺮاق‪..‬‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫أﺷﺮب ﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﺒﻊ ﻧِﻴَﺪي وأﻏﺴﻞ ﺷﻌﺮي وأﻧﺘﺸﻲ‪..‬‬ ‫ﻗﻠﺖ‪:‬‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أﻧﺘﺸﻲ‬ ‫ﺗﻚ اﻟﻤﻐﻨﺎج‪..‬‬ ‫وأﻧﺖ ﺗﺴﻴﺮﻳﻦ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻃﺮف اﻟﺴﻴﻞ ﺗﺤﻤﻠﻴﻦ ﺟﺮ ِ‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫أﻧﺘﺸﻲ‬ ‫وأﻧﺖ ﺗﻜﺒﺮﻳﻦ وﺗﻤﺸﻴﻦ ﻣﻦ ﻃﺮف اﻟﺴﻴﻞ إﻟﻰ أﻃﺮاف اﻟﻘﺮى اﻟﻤﺤﻴﻄﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وزﻫﻮ ِك وأﻧﻮﺛ ِﺘ ِﻚ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻋﻄﺮك‬ ‫وورﻗﻚ‬ ‫ﺑﺴﺎﻗﻚ اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻞ‬ ‫ﻛﺄﻧﻚ ﻳﺎﺳﻤﻴﻨﺔ‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫ِ‬

‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﻮن اﻟﺠﺎﻟﺴـﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺘﻞ ﻫﻨﺎك ﻓﻲ ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ ﺗﺴـﻘﻲ أ ُﺻ َﺺ اﻟﺮﻳﺤﺎن‪ ،‬وﺗﻐﻨﻲ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ﻏﻨﺎء ﻏﺎﻣﻀﺎ ﺑﺎﻧﺘﻈﺎر إﺷﺮاﻗﺔ اﻟﺸﻤﺲ‪.‬‬

‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫واﻟﺤﺐ اﻟﻜﺜﻴﺮ‪..‬‬ ‫ﺗﻠﺘﻔﻴﻦ ﺣﻮل اﻟﺸﺒﺎﺑﻴﻚ واﻟﻨﻮاﻓﺬ ذات اﻹﻧﺎرة اﻟﺨﺎﻓﺘﺔ‬

‫ُ‬ ‫َ َ‬ ‫ُ ّ‬ ‫ﻤﺖ اﻟﺨﻴﻞ‪.‬‬ ‫اﻟﻔﺮﺳﺎن ﻣﺮوا ﻣﻦ ﺗﺤﺖ ﺷﺮﻓﺘﻬﺎ وﺣﻤﺤ ِ‬

‫ﺗﻌﺮﺑﺸﻴﻦ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻷدراج‪..‬‬

‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ ْ‬ ‫ﺖ ُ‬ ‫ﺑﻨﺖ اﻟﻜﺮﻣﺎء‪.‬‬ ‫اﻷﺑﻄﺎل ﻃﻠﺒﻮا ُودﻫﺎ ﻓﺄﺷﺎﺣ‬

‫ْ‬ ‫أدراج ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﺼﺎﻋﺪة ﻛﺎﻟﺼﻼة‪ ..‬اﻟﺼﺎﻋﺪة ﻛﺎﻷد ِﻗﻴﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺴﻤﺎء‪.‬‬

‫ﺟﺮﻳﺲ ﺳﻤﺎوي‬ ‫ﺷﺎﻋﺮ أردﻧﻲ‬

‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺴﺎﺑﻘﺔ‪ :‬ﻣﺸﻬﺪ ﺟﺒﻞ ﻋ ّﻤﺎﻥ ﻣﻦ ﺍﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ‬

Sketch of Jabal Amman from Citadel Right: Magical Evening View from Books@Café Next page: Wild Jordan - Wild Amman

‫ﺳﻜﺘﺶ ﺟﺒﻞ ﻋ ّﻤﺎﻥ ﻣﻦ ﺍﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ‬ ‫ ﻣﺸﻬﺪ ﻟﻴﻠﻲ ﺳﺎﺣﺮ ﻣﻦ ﺑﻮﻛﺲ ﺁﺕ ﻛﺎﻓﻴﻪ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﺑﺮﻳّﺔ ﻋ ّﻤﺎﻥ‬ ّ - ‫ﺑﺮﻳّﺔ ﺍﻷﺭﺩﻥ‬ ّ :‫ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

388

3399

Suhail Bisharat |

ّ ‫ﺷﺎرع‬ ‫اﻟﺮﻳﻨﺒﻮ‬

Rainbow Street

As the sun sets, pigeons wheel over the Jabal Amman rooftops, then soar higher, leaving the Pillars of Hercules and the Umayyad dome on the Citadel below them. Neighbors of mine at the First Circle have kept pigeons on their rooftops ever since I fell in love with Rainbow Street as a young man. It is a neighborhood ready for flights of fantasy because it is so well grounded. Amman’s resilience has always astounded me. As the city absorbed waves of newcomers the custom of raising pigeons survived. Open space is at a premium; rooftops enable families to keep pigeons and children to ﬂy their kites. Early in the morning, or at sunset, I can also hear the wild pigeons cooing from their nests deep inside the old cypress tree standing majestically next to my terrace. Numerically the city has exploded from a small town into a metropolis and yet my neighborhood keeps the daily tempo of pleasures, prayer and caring for each other that has given Amman its character. Its outward features have altered somewhat with boutique cafés replacing small grocery stores, but people still greet each other on the street, share the latest from the neighborhood and invite each other to breakfast, whether they have just arrived or have lived here all their lives. The loudspeaker atop the minaret at the neighborhood mosque shares the call to prayer, in a dependable rhythm of life from before we rise in the morning through the pauses of the day until we settle down at night. I was born in Amman and our family home is on another hillside, Jabal Joffeh. Some tell me that ‘native Ammanis’ like myself are now hard to find. I don’t see it that way. Amman’s strength is in its resilience and adaptability, absorbing newcomers and trying new ways of doing things, sometimes cautiously, sometimes exuberantly, while sharing Jordan’s traditions of neighborliness and hospitality. The young people who stroll by my house or gather above the Jara Café next door to play their guitars in the evening, no matter where they come from, are the energetic new generation of ‘A mmanis’. In the morning I look out

Left: Abu Darwish Mosque

ُ ُ ّ ُ ‫داﺋﺮي ﻓﻮق أﺳـﻄﺢ اﻟﺒﻴﻮت ﻓﻲ ﺟﺒﻞ‬ ‫ﺑﺸـﻜﻞ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻤﺎم‬ ‫ﻳﻄﻴﺮ‬ ،‫ﺗﻐﻴﺐ اﻟﺸـﻤﺲ‬ ‫ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ‬ ٍ ّ ً ُ ّ ّ ّ ُ ّ َ .‫ ﻋﻢ ﻳﺤﻠﻖ إﻟﻰ اﻷﻋﻠﻰ ﺗﺎرﺎﻛ أﻋﻤﺪة ِﻫﺮﻗـﻞ واﻟﻘﺒﺔ اﻷﻣﻮﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ ﺗﺤﺘﻪ‬،‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ َ ُ ّ ‫اﻟﺪوار‬ ّ ‫اﺣﺘﻔ َﻆ ﺟﻴﺮاﻧﻲ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫وﻗﻌﺖ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫اﻷول ﺑﺎﻟﺤﻤﺎم ﻋﻠﻰ أﺳﻄﺢ ﻣﻨﺎزﻟﻬﻢ ﻣﻨﺬ أن‬ ّ ّ ً ‫ﻛﻨﺖ ﺷـﺎﺑًﺎ‬ ّ َ ‫ﺣـﺐ ﺷـﺎرع اﻟﺮﻳﻨﺒﻮ‬ ُ ‫ﻳﻮم‬ ّ ‫ إﻧّﻪ‬.‫ﻳﺎﻓﻌﺎ‬ ‫ﺣﻲ ﻣﺴـﺘﻌﺪ ﻟﺘَﺤﻠﻴـﻖ اﻟﺨﻴﺎل ﻷﻧﻪ‬ ّ ُ .‫أرﺿﻴ ٍﺔ ﺻﻠﺒﺔ‬ ‫ﻳﺮﺗﻜﺰ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ّ ُ ُ ً ْ َ ّ َ ّ ‫ﻗـﺪرة‬ ‫اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﻲ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻋﻠﻰ اﺳـﺘﻌﺎدة وﺿﻌﻬﺎ‬ ‫إن‬ ‫ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‬.‫داﺋﻤﺎ ﺗﺪﻫﺸـﻨﻲ‬ ُ ُ َ ْ ّ ُ ُ ‫ﻋﺎدة ﺗﺮﺑﻴﺔ‬ ‫ ﻇﻠﺖ‬،‫اﻟﺠﺪد‬ ‫ﻮﺟﺎت ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﺎدﻣﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﺖ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻓﻴﻪ ﺗﺴـﺘﻘﺒﻞ َﻣ‬ ِ ‫اﻟﺬي ﻛﺎﻧ‬ ٍ ّ ُ ُ ‫أﺳـﻄﺢ‬ ‫ وﺗﻤﻜ ُﻦ‬.‫اﻟﻔﻀـﺎء اﻟﻤﻔﺘﻮح ﻫﻮ أﺷـﺒَﻪ ﻣﺎ ﻳﻜـﻮن ﺑﺠﺎﺋﺰة‬ .‫اﻟﺤﻤـﺎم ﺳـﺎﺋﺪة‬ ّ َ ُ ‫اﻟﻤﻨـﺎزل‬ ‫ وﺗﻤﻜﻦ اﻷوﻻد ﻣﻦ ﺗﺤﻠﻴﻖ ﻃﺎﺋﺮاﺗﻬﻢ‬،‫اﻟﻌﺎﺋﻼت ﻣﻦ اﻻﺣﺘﻔﺎظ ﺑﺎﻟﺤﻤـﺎم‬ ِ َ َ َ ّ ُ ‫ أﺳـﺘﻄﻴﻊ أن أﺳـﻤﻊ ﻫﺪﻳـﻞ اﻟﺤﻤﺎم‬،‫ ﻓـﻲ اﻟﺼﺒـﺎح اﻟﺒﺎﻛﺮ أو ﻋﻨﺪ اﻟﻐﺮوب‬.‫اﻟﻮرﻗﻴـﺔ‬ َ ‫اﻟﺼﺎدر ﻣﻦ أﻋﺸﺎﺷـﻪ ﻋﻦ ﺑُﻌﺪ داﺧﻞ ﺷﺠﺮة اﻟﺴﺮو اﻟﻤﻨﺘﺼﺒﺔ‬ ّ ‫وﺳﻤﻮ ﺑﺠﺎﻧﺐ‬ ‫ﺑﻌﻈﻤ ٍﺔ‬ ِ ٍ ِ

.‫ﺑﺎﺣﺔ ﺑﻴﺘﻲ‬

ّ ً ً ْ َ َ ُ ً ْ ً ‫وﺻـﺎرت ﻣﺪﻳﻨـﺔ رﺋﻴﺴـﺔ ﺑﻌﺪ أن ﻛﺎﻧـﺖ ﺑﻠﺪة‬ ‫ازداد ﻋـﺪد ﺳـﻜﺎن اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨـﺔ ﻓﺠـﺄة‬ ُ ََ ُ ‫اﻟﺤﻲ اﻟﺬي أ‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻴﻮﻣﻲ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺴـﺮات‬ ‫ﻗﻴـﻢ ﻓﻴﻪ ﺑﺈﻳﻘﺎﻋﻪ‬ ‫ وﻣﻊ ذﻟـﻚ اﺣﺘﻔﻆ‬،‫ﺻﻐﻴـﺮة‬ ْ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻣﻤﺎ أﻋﻄﻰ‬ ّ ،‫واﻟﺼﻼة واﻫﺘﻤﺎم اﻟﻨـﺎس ﺑﻌﻀﻬﻢ ﺑﺒﻌﺾ‬ ‫ﺗﻐﻴﺮت‬ .‫اﻟﻤﻤﻴﺰ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻃﺎﺑَﻌﻬﺎ‬ ّ ّ ُ ّ ّ ُ ّ ‫اﻟﺘﺠﺎرﻳـﺔ ﻣﺤﻞ دﻛﺎﻛﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﺖ اﻟﻤﻘﺎﻫﻲ‬ ِ ‫ ﺣﻴـﺚ ﺣﻠ‬،‫ﻣﻼﻣﺤﻬـﺎ اﻟﺨﺎرﺟﻴـﺔ إﻟﻰ ﺣﺪ ﻣﺎ‬ ّ ّ ،‫اﻟﺘﺤﻴﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺑﻌﻀﻬﻢ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺸﺎرع‬ ‫ ﻏﻴﺮ أن اﻟﻨﺎس ﻻ ﻳﺰاﻟﻮن ﻳُﻠﻘﻮن‬،‫اﻟﺒﻘﺎﻟﺔ اﻟﺼﻐﻴﺮة‬ َ َ ً ُ ‫وﻳ ْﺪﻋﻮن‬ َ ،‫اﻟﺤﻲ‬ َ ‫ﺒﺎدﻟـﻮن‬ ُ َ‫ﺑﻌﻀﺎ ﻟﺘ‬ ّ ‫وﻳﺘ‬ ‫ﺑﻌﻀﻬﻢ‬ ‫آﺧﺮ أﺧﺒﺎر‬ ‫ ﺳـﻮاء ﻛﺎﻧﻮا‬،‫ﻨﺎول اﻹﻓﻄﺎر‬ َ َ ّ ُ ّ ُ ‫ وﺎﻛن ﻣﻜﺒﺮ اﻟﺼﻮت ﻓﻲ‬.‫ أم ﻣﻤﻦ ﺳـﻜﻨﻮا ﻫﻨﺎ ﻃﻮال ﺣﻴﺎﺗﻬـﻢ‬،‫ﻣـﻦ اﻟﻘﺎﻃﻨﻴﻦ اﻟﺠﺪد‬ ّ ‫ و إﻳﻘﺎع اﻟﺤﻴﺎة اﻟﻤﺮﺗﺒﻂ ﺑﻤﺎ‬.‫اﻟﺤﻲ ﻳﺪﻋﻮ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺼﻼة‬ ‫أﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﺌﺬﻧﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺴـﺠﺪ‬ ً ُ َ ‫ﻓﺘﺮات اﻟﺼﻤﺖ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻨﻬﺎر إﻟﻰ أن ﻧﺴـﺘﻜﻴﻦ‬ ‫ ﻧﻨﻬﺾ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺼﺒﺎح ﺧﻼل‬،‫ﻛﺎن ﺳـﺎﺑﻘﺎ‬ ِ

.‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﻠﻴﻞ‬

ّ ُ ‫ﻟﻘـﺪ ُوﻟ‬ ّ ‫ﺪت ﻓﻲ‬ ُ .‫ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﺠﻮﻓﺔ‬،‫وﻳﻘﻊ ﻣﻨﺰل ﻋﺎﺋﻠﺘﻨﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﺎﻧﺐ ﺗﻞ آﺧﺮ‬ ،‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ ِ ّ َ َ ّ ّ ‫ ﻏﻴﺮ‬.‫ﻳﻘـﻮل ﻟـﻲ اﻟﺒﻌﺾ إن ﻣﻦ اﻟﺼﻌـﺐ أن ﺗ ِﺠﺪ ’’أﻫﺎﻟﻲ ﻋﻤـﺎن اﻷﺻﻠﻴﻴﻦ‘‘ ﻣﺜﻠﻲ‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻗﻮة‬ ّ ‫إن‬ ُ َ ‫ﺗﻜﻤﻦ ﻓﻲ ﻗﺪرﺗﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ اﺳﺘﻌﺎدة‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ .‫اﻷﻣﺮ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻨﺤﻮ‬ ‫أﻧﻲ ﻻ أرى‬ ُ ُ ً َ ُ ً ّ ّ ‫وﺿﻌﻬـﺎ‬ ‫وﺗﺠـﺮ ُب ﻃﺮﻗﺎ ﺟﺪﻳﺪة‬ ‫اﻟﺠﺪد‬ ‫اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﻲ وﺗﺄﻗﻠ ِﻤﻬﺎ؛ ﻓﻬﻲ ﺗﺴـﺘﻘﺒﻞ اﻟﻘﺎدﻣﻴﻦ‬ َ ّ ،‫أﺣﻴﺎن أﺧﺮى‬ ‫وﺣﻤـﺎس ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ وﺑﺤﻴﻮﻳ ٍﺔ‬،‫ﺑﺤـﺬر ﻓﻲ ﺑﻌﺾ اﻷﺣﻴﺎن‬ ،‫ﻟﺘﺴـﻴﻴﺮ أﻋﻤﺎﻟﻬﺎ‬ ٍ ٍ ٍ ّ َ ُ ُ ‫ﺗﻘﺎﻟﻴﺪ اﻷردن‬ ّ ‫ ﻣﻦ‬.‫واﻟﻀﻴﺎﻓﺔ‬ ‫أي ﻣﻜﺎن أﺗﻰ ﻫﺆﻻء‬ ‫ﺑﺤ ْﺴ ِﻦ اﻟﺠﻮار‬ ‫ﺗﺸـﺎرك‬ ‫ﻓﻲ ﺣﻴﻦ‬ ّ ‫ أو ﻳﺠﺘﻤﻌﻮن ﻓـﻮق ﻣﻘﻬﻰ ﺟﺎرا‬،‫اﻟﺸـﺒﺎب اﻟﺬﻳـﻦ ﻳﺘﻨﺰﻫـﻮن أﻣﺎم ﺑﻴﺘـﻲ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺴـﺎء‬ ُ ّ ّ ‫ﺟﻴﻞ ’’أﻫﺎﻟﻲ‬ ّ ‘‘‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫اﻟﻘﺮﻳﺐ ﻟﻴﻌﺰﻓﻮا اﻟﻐﻴﺘﺎر ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺴـﺎء؟ إﻧﻬﻢ‬ .‫اﻟﺤﻴﻮي اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪ‬

‫ ﻣﺴﺠﺪ ﺃﺑﻮ ﺩﺭﻭﻳﺶ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬

‫ﺳﻬﻴﻞ ﺑﺸﺎرات‬

from our terrace at the small garden and observation platform opposite our house, named by the Municipality after my father, Shibli Ibrahim Bisharat. He never lived in this neighborhood nor did he live to see the day when I bought this house. But this observation platform with its expansive view of the Amman cityscape, centered on the Jordanian flag flying above the Citadel, fits well with his outlook on life and the character of Amman. Born in Salt in the late nineteenth century, he made the world his compass, learning to cope during the First World War and then with his language skills and business acumen building a business network throughout the Middle East, North Africa and into Europe. Instead of becoming bitter or disheartened, he set his sights on the world at large, moving his home base to Amman as well as to Jerusalem to support the new Hashemite Kingdom. He always reminded me to keep learning, to keep my vision wide and to remember, “Your capital is your smile”. When I bought this building in 1976 many in my family thought that I had made a disastrous decision. People returning from abroad were then buying empty lots in Abdoun and could see no redeeming features in this old, pie-shaped building that had no straight lines, an unﬁnished terrace, multiple tenants and Abu Hani’s grocery store at one end. But I had fallen for the views across Amman from the roof, for the friendly neighborhood and for the potential this organic structure had to become an art gallery. Here in 1978 I opened Jordan Works of Art, Amman’s ﬁrst private, commercial art gallery with evening lectures and studio space. While Abu Hani still sold groceries in part of the building, artists and poets gathered to exchange views. None of my neighbors looked askance. Instead they would drop by to see how I was doing. Artists from home and abroad came to exhibit; poets recited their work; FahrelNissa Zeid brought her students; Turkish painters Cemil Eren and Su Yucel stayed, worked and exhibited, as did the Iraqi master Faik Hassan. Like its neighborhood, the space was unpretentious. People felt at ease. Then as now you could stroll out to fetch your groceries, stop by Falafel Al Kuds to munch and chat and then pick up a newspaper on your way home.

ُ ُ ّ ،‫وﻣﻨﺼﺔ اﻟﻤﺮاﻗﺒﺔ أﻣﺎم ﻣﻨﺰﻟﻨﺎ‬ ‫أﻧﻈ ُﺮ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺼﺒﺎح ﻣﻦ ﺷـﺮﻓﺘﻲ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺤﺪﻳﻘﺔ اﻟﺼﻐﻴﺮة‬ ْ َ ّ ُ َ ‫ﻳﺴﺒ ْﻖ ﻟﻪ‬ ِ ‫ ﻟﻢ‬.‫واﻟﺘﻲ أﻃﻠﻘﺖ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ أﻣﺎﻧﺔ ﻋﻤﺎن اﺳـﻢ واﻟﺪي ﺷـﺒﻠﻲ إﺑﺮاﻫﻴﻢ ﺑﺸﺎرات‬ ّ ُ َ‫ وﻟﻢ ﻳَﻌ ْﺶ ﻟﻴَﺮى اﻟﻴﻮم اﻟﺬي اﺷﺘ‬،‫اﻟﺤﻲ‬ ّ ‫أن ﺳﻜﻦ ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬا‬ ‫ إﻻ‬.‫ﺮﻳﺖ ﻓﻴﻪ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺒﻴﺖ‬ ِ ّ ّ َّ ً ّ ‫أن‬ ّ ‫ ﻣﺮﻛﺰة ﻋﻠﻰ‬،‫ﻣﻨﺼـﺔ اﻟﻤﺮاﻗﺒﺔ ﻫﺬه ﺑﺈﻃﻼﻟﺘﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﻤﻤﺘﺪة أﻣﺎﻣﻬﺎ‬ ُ ً ‫أﻣﻮر ﺗﻼﺋﻢ‬ ٌ ‫ ﻫﻲ‬،‫ﻳﺮﻓﺮف ﻓﻮق اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ‬ ّ ‫ﺗﻤﺎﻣﺎ ﻧﻈﺮﺗﻪ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺤﻴﺎة‬ ‫اﻷردﻧـﻲ اﻟﺬي‬ ‫اﻟﻌﻠـﻢ‬ َ ّ ّ ّ ُ ‫ وﺟﻌﻞ‬،‫ وﻟﺪ أﺑﻲ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴـﻠﻂ ﻓﻲ أواﺧﺮ اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﺘﺎﺳـﻊ ﻋﺸﺮ‬.‫وإﻟﻰ ﺷـﺨﺼﻴﺔ ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ّ َّ ّ ، ‫اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻤﻴﺔ اﻷو‬ ‫ﻳﺘﻜﻴﻒ ﻣﻊ اﻟﻮﺿﻊ ﻓﻲ أﺛﻨﺎء اﻟﺤﺮب‬ ‫ وﻗﺪ ﺗﻌﻠـﻢ أن‬،‫اﻟﻌﺎﻟـﻢ ﺑﻮﺻﻠﺘَﻪ‬ ُ ّ ّ ‫ ﺑﻨﻰ‬،‫اﻟﻠﻐﻮﻳﺔ واﻟﺬﻛﺎء اﻟـﺬي ﻛﺎن ﻳﺘﻤﺘﻊ ﺑﻪ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﺎل اﻷﻋﻤﺎل‬ ‫ﻋ ّﻢ ﺑﻮاﺳـﻄﺔ ﻣﻬﺎراﺗﻪ‬ ً َ ‫أﻋﻤﺎل ﻓﻲ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ أﻧﺤﺎء ﻣﻨﻄﻘﺔ اﻟﺸﺮق اﻷوﺳـﻂ وﺷﻤﺎل أﻓﺮﻳﻘﻴﺎ وﺻﻮﻻ إﻟﻰ‬ ‫ﺷـﺒﻜﺔ‬ ٍ ً ّ ّ ُ‫ﻳﺸـﻌﺮ ﺑﺎﻟﻤـﺮارة أو أن ﺗ‬ َ َ ‫أﻧﻈﺎره ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻢ‬ ‫ رﻛـﺰ‬،‫ﺜﺒ َﻂ ﻋﺰﻳﻤﺘُﻪ‬ ‫ ﺑﺪﻻ ﻣﻦ أن‬.‫أوروﭘـﺎ‬ َ َََ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻣﻮﻗﻊ ﺑﻴﺘﻪ إﻟﻰ‬ َ َ َ‫ﻋﻤﺎن وإﻟﻰ اﻟﻘﺪس ﻟﻴ‬ ‫اﻟﻬﺎﺷﻤﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻷردﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺪﻋﻢ اﻟﻤﻤﻠﻜﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻮاﺳﻊ وﻏﻘﻞ‬ ّ ً ّ ّ ‫ ﻛﺎن‬.(‫)اﻟﺘـﻲ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺣﺪﻳﺜـﺔ اﻟﻌﻬﺪ آﻧﺬاك‬ ‫أﺳـﺘﻤﺮ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺘﻌﻠﻢ وأن‬ ‫داﺋﻤﺎ ﻳﺬﻛ ُﺮﻰﻳ ﺑﺄن‬ ُ َ ً ّ َ ُ ُ َ ‫أﺑ ِﻘ َﻲ‬ .‘‘‫ ’’رأس ﻣﺎﻟﻚ ﻫﻮ اﺑﺘﺴﺎﻣﺘﻚ‬:‫دوﻣﺎ ﻗﻮﻟﻪ ﻟﻲ‬ ‫ وأن أﺗﺬﻛﺮ‬،‫رؤاي واﺳﻌﺔ‬ ّ َ ُ ُ ‫اﻟﻌﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﻦ أﻓﺮاد ﻋﺎﺋﻠﺘﻲ أﻧﻲ‬ ‫ اﻋﺘﻘﺪ‬،‫م‬١٩٦٧ ‫اﺷـﺘﺮﻳﺖ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﺒﻨﻰ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ ‫ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ‬ ّ ُ ً ً ‫ ﻛﺎن اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﻳﻌﻮدون إﻟﻰ اﻷردن ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﺎرج ﻓﻲ ذﻟﻚ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‬.‫اﺗﺨﺬت ﻗﺮارا ﻛﺎرﺛﻴﺎ‬ ً َ َ ‫ﺗﻌﻮﻳﺾ‬ ‫ وﻟﻢ ﻳﺴـﺘﻄﻴﻌﻮا أن ﻳﺮوا أﻳّﺔ ﻣﻼﻣﺢ‬،‫أراض ﺧﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺒﺪون‬ ٍ ‫ﻳﺸـﺘﺮون ﻗﻄﻊ‬ ٍ ّ ‫ وﺷﺮﻓﺘُﻪ‬،‫ﺧﻄﻮط ﻣﺴﺘﻘﻴﻤﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺪاﺋﺮي اﻟﺸﻜﻞ اﻟﺬي ﻳﻔﺘﻘﺮ إﻟﻰ‬ ‫ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﺒﻨﻰ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻢ‬ ٍ ُ ُ ُ‫ و أﺣﺪ أﻃﺮاﻓﻪ ﻣﺘﺠﺮ‬،‫اﻟﻌﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﺄﺟﺮﻳﻦ‬ ‫ واﻟﺬي ﻳﺴﻜﻦ ﻓﻴﻪ‬،‫ﻏﻴﺮ ﻣﻜﺘَﻤﻠﺔ‬ ِ ّ ّ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ أراﻫﺎ ﻋﺒﺮ‬ ُ ‫ﻣﺖ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﻨﺎﻇﺮ اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ُ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ ﻗﺪ أُﻏﺮ‬ ُ ‫ﻟﻜﻨﻲ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻣﻦ‬ .‫ﺑﻘﺎﻟﺔ أﺑﻲ ﻫﺎﻧﻲ‬ ِ َ ّ ً ّ ً.‫ﻓﻨﻴﺎ‬ ّ ‫وﺑﺎﻟﺤﻲ اﻟﻮدود وﺑﺈﻣﻜﺎﻧﻴﺔ أن ﻳﻜﻮن ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﺒﻨﻰ ﻣﻌﺮﺿﺎ‬ ،‫ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺴﻄﺢ‬ َ ّ ّ ُ َ‫ اﻓﺘَﺘ‬،‫م‬١٩٧٨ ‫ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ ّ ّ ‫ وﻫﻮ‬،‫اﻷردﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻔﻦ‬ ‫ﺤﺖ ﻫﻨﺎ أﻋﻤﺎل‬ ‫ﻣﻌﺮض ﻓﻨ ّﻲ‬ ‫أول‬ ٍ ّ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫ وﻣﻊ أن أﺑﺎ‬.‫وﻣﻜﺎن ﻟﻸﻋﻤﺎل اﻟﻔﻨ ّﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﺴﺎﺋﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﺤﺎﺿﺮات‬ ‫ ﻣﻊ‬،‫ﺗﺠﺎري ﺧﺎص‬ ٍ ٍ ًّ ّ ّ ّ ُ ‫ ﻓﺈن اﻟﻔﻨﺎﻧﻴﻦ‬،‫ﺗﻤﻮﻳﻨﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺰ ٍء ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﺒﻨﻰ‬ ‫ﻳﺒﻴﻊ ﻣﻮاد‬ ‫ﻫﺎﻧﻲ ﻛﺎن ﻻ ﻳﺰال‬ ُ َ ّ ‫ﺟﺎر ﻣﻦ ﺟﻴﺮاﻧﻲ‬ ٍ ‫ ﻟﻢ ﻳﻜﻦ ﻟﺪى أي‬.‫واﻟﺸﻌﺮاء ﻛﺎﻧﻮا ﻳﺠﺘﻤﻌﻮن ﻟﺘﺒﺎد ِل اﻵراء‬ ً ّ ُ ُ‫ﻳﺮوا ﻣﺎ ﻛﻨﺖ‬ ّ َ ‫ﻳﺘﻮﻗﻔﻮن ﻟﻜﻲ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧﻮا‬،‫ ﺑﺪﻻ ﻣﻦ ﻫﺬا‬.‫ﻳﺤﺪث‬ ‫أي ارﺗﻴﺎب ﻓﻲ ﻣﺎ‬ ُ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻔﻨﺎﻧﻮن ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن وﻣﻦ ﺧﺎرج اﻷردن ﻳﺄﺗﻮن ﻟﻌﺮض أﻋﻤﺎﻟﻬﻢ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن‬.‫أﻓﻌﻠﻪ‬ ّ ُ‫ وﺎﻛﻧﺖ ’’ﻓﺨﺮ اﻟﻨﺴﺎء زﻳﺪ‘‘ ﺗﺠﻠﺐ‬،‫اﻟﺸﻌﺮاء ﻳُﻠﻘﻮن أﺷﻌﺎرﻫﻢ‬ ُ ‫ وﺎﻛن‬،‫اﻟﻔﻨ ّﻴﺔ‬ َ ًّ ّ ّ ‫وأﻗﺎم ﻓﻴﻪ‬ َ ‫اﻟﺘﺮﻛﻴﺎن ﺳﻤﻴﻞ أرﻳﻦ وﺳﻮ ﻳﺎﺳﻞ وﻋﻤﻼ ﻓﻴﻪ ﻣﺪة‬ ‫اﻟﺮﺳﺎﻣﺎن‬ ،‫ﺗﻼﻣﻴﺬﻫﺎ‬ ُ ُ َ ّ ‫ ﻣﺜﻠﻤﺎ ﻓﻌﻞ‬،‫وﻋ َﺮﺿﺎ أﻋﻤﺎﻟﻬﻤﺎ‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺤﻲ‬ ‫ ﻣﺜﻠﻪ ﻣﺜﻞ‬.‫اﻟﻌﺮاﻗﻲ ﻓﺎﺋﻖ ﺣﺴﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﺮﺳﻢ‬ ‫ﺳﻴ ُﺪ‬ ِ ُ َ ً َ َ ،‫ﻮاﺿ ًﻌﺎ‬ .‫وﺷﻌﺮ اﻟﻨﺎس ﻓﻴﻪ ﺑﺎﻻرﺗﻴﺎح‬ ِ ‫ ﻛﺎن اﻟﻤﻜﺎن ﺑﺴﻴﻄﺎ ﻣﺘ‬،‫اﻟﺬي ﻳﻮﺟﺪ ﻓﻴﻪ‬ ّ ً َ َ‫ﺧﺎرﺟﺎ ﻟﻴ‬ ُ ُ ،‫ﺠﻠﺐ ﺑﻘﺎﻟﺘﻪ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺮء أن ﻳﺘﻤﺸﻰ‬ ‫ﻳﺴﺘﻄﻴﻊ‬ ،‫ ﻛﻤﺎ اﻵن‬،‫ﻓﻲ ذﻟﻚ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‬ ً َُ ُ َ ّ ّ َ ّ ‫وﻳﺘﻮﻗﻒ ﻋﻨﺪ ﻓﻼﻓﻞ اﻟﻘﺪس ﻟﻴﺄﻛﻞ ﺑﺸﻬﻴﺔ وﻳﺪردش ﻋﻢ ﻳﻠﺘﻘﻂ ﺻﺤﻴﻔﺔ ﻓﻲ‬

.‫ﻃﺮﻳﻖ ﻋﻮدﺗﻪ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺒﻴﺖ‬

I look across the hillsides of Amman each morning as the sun rises, catching and softening the white stone angles that pile one atop another from the shaded wadis below. Each building in itself may lack distinction but together they form an optimistic harmony that blends together well with the rocky slopes. Wars in the region have tested the resilience of Amman and its people. This has proven to be a solid, grounded city where lifelong friendships and discoveries await all who are ready to embrace it.

Suhail's Veiw Next page: Pigeons and Kites

ّ ُ ّ ‫اﻟﺸـﻤﺲ وﺗُﺴﻘ ُﻂ‬ ّ ‫أﻧﻈﺮ ﻋﺒﺮ ﺗﻼل‬ ُ ‫أﺷﻌﺘﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻓﻲ ﻛﻞ ﺻﺒﺎح ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﺗﺸـﺮق‬ ِ ّ ً ‫ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻮدﻳـﺎن اﻟﻤﻈﻠﻠﺔ ﻓﻲ‬،‫زواﻳـﺎ اﻟﺤﺠﺎرة اﻟﺒﻴﻀـﺎء اﻟﻤﺼﻔﻮﻓﺔ واﺣﺪا ﻓـﻮق اﻵﺧﺮ‬ ُ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﺣﺪ ذاﺗﻪ ﻣـﻦ ﺻﻔﺔ‬ ،‫ﺗﻤﻴﺰه‬ ‫ ﻗﺪ ﻳﺨﻠـﻮ ﻛﻞ ﻣﺒﻨﻰ ﻓﻲ‬.‫اﻷﺳـﻔﻞ وﺗﺠﻌﻠﻬـﺎ ﺗﺒﺪو ﻧﺎﻋﻤﺔ‬ ٍ ً ُ َ ُّ ّ َ ُ ً ‫ﻟﻜﻨﻬﺎ‬ ّ ‫ﻳﻤﺘﺰج ﺑﺸـﻜﻞ‬ ّ ‫ﺟﻴﺪ ﻣﻊ اﻟﻤﻨﺤﺪرات‬ ‫ﻣﻌﺎ ﺗﺸـﻜﻞ ﺗﻨﺎﻟ ًﻤﺎ ﻣﺘﻔﺎﺋﻼ‬ .‫اﻟﺼﺨﺮﻳﺔ‬ ٍ َ ُ ّ ‫ﻗﺪرة‬ َ َ‫ﻟﻘـﺪ اﺧﺘﺒ‬ ‫اﻟﺤـﺮوب ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻨﻄﻘـﺔ‬ ‫ـﺮ ِت‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن وأﻫﻠﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ اﺳـﺘﻌﺎدة وﺿ ِﻌﻬﺎ‬ ٌ ُ ْ َ ُ ّ ‫ﺖ أﻧّﻬﺎ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ّ ‫أﺳـﺎس‬ ّ ‫اﻟﺼﺪاﻗﺎت اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ‫ ﺣﻴـﺚ‬،‫ﻗﻮي‬ ‫ﻗﻮﻳﺔ ذات‬ ‫ ﻟﻘـﺪ أﺛﺒﺘ‬.‫اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌـﻲ‬ ٍ ْ ّ ُ َ ُ َ‫ﺗ‬ ُ .‫ﺟﻤﻴﻊ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻌﺪﻳﻦ ﻷن ﻳﺤﺘﻀﻨﻮﻫﺎ‬ ‫ﺗﻨﺘﻈﺮ‬ ‫واﻻﻛﺘﺸﺎﻓﺎت اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ،‫ﺪوم ﻣﺪى اﻟﺤﻴﺎة‬

‫ﺍﻟﻤﻨﻈﺮ ﻣﻦ ﺑﻴﺖ ﺍﻟﺴﻴّﺪ ﺳﻬﻴﻞ‬ ‫ ﺣﻤﺎﻡ ﻭﻃﺎﺋﺮﺍﺕ ﻭﺭﻗﻴّﺔ‬:‫ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

Jane Taylor |

‫اﻟﻐﺮوب ﻋﻨﺪ اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ‬

Citadel Sunset

Alone one evening on top of the Citadel, I felt all Amman to be within my reach – if I stretched out my hand I should have been able to touch every corner of it. It was not just the ancient remains that crowded my imagination, nor the surrounding modern city with its skyline increasingly jagged with skyscrapers… Yes, all those were there, and tangible – but, as the fading sunlight softened the lines of reality, the Citadel began to sing with the music of those who, over the millennia, have written the story of Rabbath Ammon-Philadelphia-Amman. As the sounds of the modern town gave way to the ancient songs, I drifted backwards through time, catching random threnodies and halleluiahs from the air. I seemed to hear the chink of stone-cutters as they built the ﬁrst walls to protect this hilltop, transforming it into a place of safe-keeping in times of war. Outside those same walls, a handful of centuries later, I imagined the siege of Rabbath Ammon, loud with the clash of metal and the cries of the injured and dying – including the hapless Uriah the Hittite, sent by King David to die in the front line, while in the safety of Jerusalem the king enjoyed the favours of Uriah’s widow, the beautiful Bathsheba. The ‘city of the waters’ was what David’s general, Joab, called Rabbath Ammon – it seems an odd appellation today, looking at the normally dry landscape that surrounds Amman. But its perennial stream and massive cisterns cut into the rock of the Citadel gave it advantages that were envied by the enemies of the Ammonites. The kaleidoscope of time is shaken, transforming the music from Uriah’s plangent minor key to a gentle pastorale. I caught the creaking sounds of the Byzantine olive press as the circular pressing stone was rolled endlessly round and round in the groove cut out of the huge stone below it, the donkeys doing the work leaning patiently into the yoke as the oil oozed from the olives. The sound of a church bell from the town below might almost have come from the little ruined sixth-century church on the Citadel itself, with Arab Christians preparing to chant the Orthodox Mass.

Left: Citadel View

ّ ُ ّ ‫ﺑﺄن‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ ﺷﻌﺮت‬،‫ﻓﻲ إﺣﺪى اﻷﻣﺴﻴﺎت وأﻧﺎ ﺑﻤﻔﺮدي ﻓﻲ أﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ‬ ّ ّ َ ُ ‫ﻣﺪ ْد‬ ُ َ‫ت ﻳﺪي ﻻﺳﺘ‬ َ َ ‫ﻛﻠﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ‬ .‫أﻟﻤﺲ ﻛﻞ زاوﻳ ٍﺔ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻄﻌﺖ أن‬ ‫ ﻟﻮ‬-‫ﻣﺘﻨﺎول ﻳﺪي‬ ُ ُ ّ َ ُ ‫ﻣﺨﻴﻠﺘﻲ؛ وﻻ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺜﺔ اﻟﻤﺤﻴﻄﺔ‬ ‫إزدﺣﻤﺖ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫اﻵﺛﺎر اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﻬﺎ اﻟﺘﻲ إزداﻧﺖ ﺑﻤﻨﻈﺮ ﻧﺎﻃﺤﺎت‬ ‫ ﻛﻞ ﻫﺬه ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻫﻨﺎك وﻋﻠﻰ‬،‫ أﺟﻞ‬-‫اﻟﺴﺤﺎب‬ ُ ّ ْ َّ ّ ‫ﺖ‬ َ ،‫ﺧﻄﻮط اﻟﻮاﻗﻊ‬ ‫أﺷﻌﺔ اﻟﺸﻤﺲ اﻟﻐﺎرﺑﺔ‬ ‫ وﻟﻜﻦ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﺧﻔﻔ‬-‫ﻣﻘﺮﺑ ٍﺔ ﻣﻨﻲ‬ ّ ُ ّ ‫ ﻛﺘﺒﻮا‬،‫ ﻋﺒﺮ آﻻف اﻟﺴﻨﻴﻦ‬،‫ﻐﻨﻲ ﻣﻮﺳﻴﻘﻰ ﻫﺆﻻء اﻟﺬﻳﻦ‬ ّ ‫ﻗﺼ َﺔ‬ ‫ﺑﺪأت اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ ﺗ‬ ‫رﺑﺔ‬ ِ ّ ّ .‫ ﻋﻤﺎن‬-‫ ﻓﻴﻼدﻟﻔﻴﺎ‬-‫ﻋﻤﻮن‬ ْ َ ُ َ َ ‫ﻟﺘﻔﺴـﺢ اﻟﻤﺠـﺎل ﻟﻸﻏﺎﻧﻲ‬ ‫ﺗﺘﺮاﺟ ُﻊ‬ ‫أﺻـﻮات اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨـﺔ اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺜـﺔ‬ ‫ﺑﻴﻨﻤـﺎ ﻛﺎﻧـﺖ‬ ْ َ ُ ‫اﻧﺪﻓﻌ‬ ّ ‫ﻗﺼﺎﺋﺪ‬ ‫ﺖ إﻟـﻰ اﻟﻮراء ﻋﺒﺮ اﻟﺰﻣﻦ ﻷﺗﻨﻔﺲ ﻣـﻦ اﻟﻬﻮاء‬ ،‫اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤـﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺮ ﺛﺎء‬ َ ّ َ ُ ‫ ﺑﺪا ﻟﻲ أﻧﻲ أﺳـﻤﻊ ﺻـﻮت ﻗﺎﻃﻌﻲ اﻟﺤﺠﺎرة اﻟﺨﻔﻴـﻒ ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ‬.‫وﺗﻬﺎﻟﻴـﻞ اﻟﺤﻤﺪ‬ ّ َ ّ ّ ‫ﻛﺎﻧـﻮا ﻳﺒﻨـﻮن اﻟﺠﺪران اﻷو ﻟﺤﻤﺎﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﺼﻴﺮﻳﻦ إﻳّﺎه ﻣـﻜﺎن ﺣﻤﺎﻳ ٍﺔ‬ ‫ﻗﻤـﺔ اﻟﺘﻞ‬ َ ّ ،‫ﺧﺎرج اﻟﺠـﺪران ﺑﺎﻟﻄﺮﻳﻘـﺔ ذاﺗﻬﺎ‬ ّ ‫ﺣﺼﺎر‬ ُ ‫ﺗﺨﻴ‬ َ ‫رﺑﺔ‬ ‫ﻠـﺖ‬ .‫ﻓـﻲ أوﻗـﺎت اﻟﺤﺮب‬ ٌ ٌ ُ ّ ُ ‫ أﺻﻮات ﺻﺎﺧﺒـﺔ ﺗﺨﺘﻠﻂ ﺑﺼﻮت ﺗﺼـﺎد مِ اﻟﻤﻌﺎدن‬،‫ﻋﻤـﻮن ﺑﻌـﺪ ﺑﻀﻌﺔ ﻗـﺮون‬ ّ ّ َ ُ ّ ‫اﻟﺤﺜ ّﻲ‬ ‫ﺳـﻴﺊ اﻟﺤﻆ‬ ‫ ﺑِ َﻤـﻦ ﻓﻴﻬﻢ أورﻳـﺎ‬-‫واﻟﻤﺤﺘﻀﺮﻳـﻦ‬ ‫وﺻﺮﺧـﺎت اﻟﺠﺮﺣـﻰ‬ ّ َ ‫ ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻛﺎن اﻟﻤﻠﻚ‬،‫اﻟـﺬي أرﺳـﻠﻪ اﻟﻤﻠﻚ داود ﻟﻴﻤﻮت ﻓـﻲ اﻟﺨﻄﻮط اﻷﻣﺎﻣﻴـﺔ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن‬.‫ ﺑﺜﺸـﺒَﻊ اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻠﺔ‬،‫داود ﻓـﻲ أورﺷـﻠﻴﻢ اﻵﻣﻨﺔ ﻳﻨﻌـﻢ ﺑﻤﻔﺎﺗﻦ أرﻣﻠﺔ أورﻳـﺎ‬ ُ ‫أﺣ‬ َ ّ ‫رﺑـﺔ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻳﺴـﻤﻲ‬ -‘‘‫ﻋﻤﻮن ’’ﻣﺪﻳﻨـﺔ اﻟﻤﻴﺎه‬ ،‫ واﺳـﻤﻪ ﻳﻮآب‬،‫ـﺪ ﻗﺎدة ﺟﻴﺶ داود‬ ً ّ ً ُ ‫ﺠﺪ ﺑﺔ ﻋﺎدة اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ِ ‫ﺗﺒـﺪو ﻫﺬه اﻟﺘﺴـﻤﻴﺔ ﻏﺮﻳﺒﺔ اﻟﻴـﻮم ﺑﺎﻟﻨﻈﺮ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﺴـﺎﺣﺔ اﻟﻤ‬ َ ّ ّ َ ّ ‫ﺗﺤﻴـﻂ‬ َ ‫ وأﺣﻮاﺿﻬـﺎ اﻟﻀﺨﻤـﺔ‬،‫ﻣﻴـﺎه ﻧﻬﺮﻫـﺎ داﺋﻤـ ِﺔ اﻟﺘﺪﻓـﻖ‬ ‫ ﻏﻴـﺮ أن‬.‫ﺑﻌﻤـﺎن‬ ْ َ َ ً ‫أﻋﻄﺘﻬﺎ ِﻣﻴﺰة ﺣﺴـﺪ ﻫﺎ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ‬ ،‫ﻟﺘَﺨﺰﻳـﻦ اﻟﻤﻴـﺎه اﻟﻤﺤﻔـﻮرة ﻓﻲ ﺻﺨﺮ ِة اﻟﻘﻠﻌـﺔ‬ ّ ُ .‫أﻋـﺪاء اﻟﻌﻤﻮﻧﻴﻴـﻦ‬

ّ َ ّ ، ‫إﻫﺘـﺰ‬ ّ ّ ً ‫ﻣﻐﻴ‬ ّ ‫ﺛﺎﻧـﻮي ﻣﺮﺗﻔﻊ‬ ‫ﻣﻮﺳـﻴﻘﻲ‬ ‫ـﺮا اﻟﻤﻮﺳـﻴﻘﻰ ﻣﻦ ُﺳـﻠ ٍﻢ‬ ‫ﻣﺸـﻜﺎل اﻟﻮﻗـﺖ‬ َ ّ ُ ّ ‫اﻟﺒﻴﺰﻧﻄﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺳـﻤﻌﺖ أﺻﻮات ﺻﺮﻳـﺮ ﻣﻌﺼﺮة اﻟﺰﻳﺘـﻮن‬ .‫رﻋﻮي رﻗﻴﻖ‬ ‫ﻟﺤـﻦ‬ ‫إﻟـﻰ‬ ٍ ُ ُ ُ ‫ﺑﻴﻨﻤـﺎ ﻛﺎن ﺣﺠـﺮ اﻟﺮﺣـﻰ اﻟـﺬي ﻳﻌﺼﺮ اﻟﺰﻳﺘﻮن ﻳـﺪور ﺑﻼ ﻧﻬﺎﻳﺔ ﺣﻮل ﻧﻔﺴـﻪ‬ ُ ،‫ﻓـﻲ اﻷﺧـﺪود اﻟﻤﺤﻔـﻮر ﻓﻲ اﻟﺤﺠـﺮ اﻟﻀﺨـﻢ ﺗﺤﺘـﻪ‬ ‫واﻟﺤﻤﻴﺮ ﺗﻘـﻮم ﺑﺎﻟﻌﻤﻞ‬ ٌ َ ّ ْ َ ُ ُ ّ ‫ ﻓﻴﻤﺎ ﻳﺮﺷـﺢ اﻟﺰ ﻳﺖ ﻣﻦ‬،‫ﺑﻄـﺖ إﻟﻴﻪ‬ ‫ﺑﺼﺒﺮ ﺗﺤـﺖ اﻟﻨﻴﺮ اﻟﺬي ر‬ ‫وﻫـﻲ ﻣﻨﺤﻨﻴـﺔ‬ ٍ ّ ُ ٌ ‫ﺻﺎدر‬ ‫ﺟﺮس ﻛﻨﻴﺴـ ٍﺔ ﻣـﻦ اﻟﺒﻠﺪة ﻓﻲ اﻷﺳـﻔﻞ وﻛﺄﻧـﻪ‬ ‫ﺻـﻮت‬ ‫ ﺑـﺪا‬.‫اﻟﺰﻳﺘـﻮن‬ ِ ّ ‫ ﺣﻴـﺚ ﻛﺎن‬،‫ﻣـﻦ ﻛﻨﻴﺴـ ٍﺔ أﺛﺮﻳـ ٍﺔ ﻣـﻦ اﻟﻘـﺮن اﻟﺴـﺎدس ﻓـﻲ اﻟﻘﻠﻌـﺔ ﻧﻔﺴـﻬﺎ‬ ُ ّ ّ ّ ّ . ‫رﺛﻮذﻛﺴـﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺴـﻴﺤﻴﻮن اﻟﻌﺮب ﻳﺴـﺘَﻌﺪ ون ﻟﺘَﺮدﻳﺪ ﺗﺮاﻧﻴﻢ اﻟﻘﺪ اس اﻷ‬

‫ ﻣﻨﻈﺮ ﺍﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬

‫ﺟﺎﻳﻦ ﺗﺎﻳﻠﻮر‬

As the light dimmed further the music changed again and I caught a glimpse of an early eighth-century Umayyad servant whose footsteps echoed on the steps that curve down inside the great open circular cistern. Then there was the slosh as he swung his leather bucket to collect water and the heavier tramp of boots on stone as he returned to the surface with a full bucket. Other citizens, with petitions for the emir, gathered in the vestibule above, contemplating with wonder the lavish carved decoration as they whiled away the waiting time before being called through the far courtyard for their audience. As the call to prayer began, a flicker of time revealed the ancient muezzin, standing aloft with his hands held open behind his head, while a stream of shadows made their way from all over the Citadel to the mosque with its forest of columns. I had saved the Romans to the last, rewinding the music of the centuries in my mind’s ear as I watched, and photographed, the final drama of the sun setting behind the towering columns of the Temple of Hercules. Here were shadows of the fine and flawed philosopher-emperor, Marcus Aurelius, in whose reign the temple had been built, and to whom it had been dedicated. At first the columns formed dark silhouettes against a pale blue sky, pink and purple clouds and a deep orange-red sun. Gradually the balance changed. The darkening sky merged into a band of orange/red/

Above: Citadel Columns Right: Citadel Sunset Next page: Citadel View from Rainbow Street

ّ َ ًّ ً ّ َ َ ُ ً ‫ﺧﺎدﻣﺎ‬ ‫أﻣﻮﻳﺎ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫وﻟﻤﺤﺖ‬ ،‫ﻣﺮة أﺧﺮى‬ ‫ﺮت اﻟﻤﻮﺳﻴﻘﻰ‬ ِ ‫ ﺗﻐﻴ‬،‫ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﺻﺎر اﻟﻀﻮء أﺧﻔﺖ‬ ُ ‫وﺳﻤﻌﺖ ﺻﺪى ﺧﻄﻮاﺗﻪ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺪرﺟﺎت اﻟﻤﻨﺤﻨﻴﺔ إﻟﻰ أﺳﻔﻞ ﺣﻮض‬ ،‫اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﺜﺎﻣﻦ‬ ُ ُ ّ‫دﻟﻮه اﻟﺠﻠﺪي‬ ّ ّ َ ‫ﺻﻮت َدﻓْﻖ اﻟﻤﺎء ﻋﻨﺪﻣـﺎ رﻣﻰ‬ ‫ ﻋﻢ ﺻﺪر‬.‫اﻟﺘﺨﺰﻳـﻦ اﻟﺪاﺋﺮي اﻟﻜﺒﻴـﺮ‬ َْ ُ َ َ ّ ‫ﺗﺒﻌﻪ ﺻـﻮت وﻗﻊ ﺣﺬاﺋﻪ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺤﺠـﺮ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﻋﺎد‬ ِ ،‫ﺑﺤﺮﻛـ ٍﺔ داﺋﺮﻳـﺔ ﻟﻴﺠﻤﻊ اﻟﻤـﺎء‬ َ َ ‫ﻤﺎﺳـﺎت‬ ‫اﺟﺘﻤﻊ ﻣﻮاﻃﻨﻮن آﺧﺮون ﻳﺤﻤﻠﻮن ﻣﻌﻬﻢ اﻟ ِﺘ‬ .‫ﻣﻶن ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺎء‬ ‫ﻟﻮ‬ ٍ ٍ ٍ ‫إﻟﻰ اﻟﺴـﻄﺢ ﺑﺪ‬ ّ ‫ﻟﻸﻣﻴـﺮ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺮدﻫﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻷﻋﻠﻰ وﻫﻢ ﻳﺘﺄﻣﻠﻮن ﺑﺈﻋﺠﺎب اﻟﺰﺧﺎرف اﻟﻤﻨﺤﻮﺗﺔ ﺑﺴـﺨﺎء‬ ّ ُ ‫ﺑﻴﻨﻤـﺎ ﻫﻢ ﻳﻨﺘﻈـﺮون أن ﻳُﻨﺎدى ﻋﻠﻴﻬﻢ ﻋﺒﺮ اﻟﺴــﺎﺣﺔ‬ ‫ وﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ‬.‫اﻟﺮﺳـﻤﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻟﻠﻤﻘﺎﺑَﻠـﺔ‬ ُ َ ّ ُ َ ‫اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻢ وﻫﻮ ﻳﻘﻒ ﻋﺎﻟﻴًﺎ‬ ‫ وﺑﻠﺤﻈ ٍﺔ ﺳـﺮﻳﻌﺔ ﻇﻬﺮ اﻟﻤـﺆذن‬،‫اﻟﺪﻋﻮة إﻟﻰ اﻟﺼﻼة‬ ‫ﺑﺪأت‬ ِ َْ ّ َ ّ ٌ َ ‫ ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﺷـﻖ دﻓﻖ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻈﻼل ﻃﺮﻳﻘﻪ ﻣﻦ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ أﻧﺤﺎء‬،‫وﻳﺪاه ﻣﻔﺘﻮﺣﺘﺎن وراء رأﺳـﻪ‬ .‫اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﺴﺠﺪ وﻏﺎﺑﺔ اﻷﻋﻤـﺪة ﻓﻴﻪ‬

ُ َ ُ ُ ّ ‫أﺑﻘﻴـﺖ‬ ‫اﻟﺮ وﻣـﺎن إﻟـﻰ اﻟﻨﻬﺎﻳـﺔ وأﻧﺎ أ‬ ‫ﻟﻘـﺪ‬ ‫ﻋﻴـﺪ ﺳـﻤﺎع ﻣﻮﺳـﻴﻘﻰ اﻟﻘﺮون ﻓﻲ‬ ُ ُ ُ ُ ُ ّ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻛﻨﺖ أراﻗـﺐ اﻟﺪراﻣﺎ اﻷﺧﻴﺮة ﻟﻐﺮوب اﻟﺸـﻤﺲ وأ ﺻﻮ رﻫﺎ‬،‫ذن ذﻫﻨـﻲ‬ ِ ‫أ‬ ً ‫ ﻛﺎﻧـﺖ ﻫﻨـﺎ ﺣﺎﺿـﺮة‬.‫ﺑﻴﻨﻤـﺎ ﺗﺘﻬـﺎدى وراء أﻋﻤـﺪة ﻣﻌﺒـﺪ ِﻫ َﺮ ﻗـﻞ اﻟﺸـﺎﻫﻘﺔ‬ ُ ‫ﻇـﻼل اﻟﻔﻴﻠﺴـﻮف اﻹﻣﺒﺮاﻃـﻮر ﻣﺎرﻛﻮس أورﻳﻠﻴـﻮس اﻟﺮاﺋﻊ وﻏﻴـﺮ اﻟﻤﻌﺼﻮم‬ ُ ُ َ ُ‫ واﻟﺬي ﻓـﻲ ﻋﻬﺪه ﺑ‬،‫ﻣـﻦ اﻷﺧﻄـﺎء‬ ‫ﻨـﻲ‬ ،‫ ﻓـﻲ اﻟﺒﺪاﻳﺔ‬.‫اﻟﻤﻌﺒﺪ اﻟـﺬي ﻛ ّﺮس ﻟﻪ‬ ّ ّ َ ُ ‫اﻷﻋﻤﺪة ُﺻ َﻮ ًرا ﻇﻠ ّﻴﺔ داﻛﻨﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺴـﻤﺎء اﻟﺰرﻗﺎء اﻟﺸـﺎﺣﺒﺔ واﻟﻐﻴﻮم‬ ‫ﻠﺖ‬ ِ ‫ﺷـﻜ‬ ُ ّ َ‫ ﺗ‬.‫اﻟﺒﺮﺗﻘﺎﻟﻴـﺔ اﻟﺤﻤﺮاء اﻟﻘﺎﻧﻴـﺔ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻐﻴﺮ اﻟﺘﻮازن‬ ‫ واﻟﺸـﻤﺲ‬،‫رﺟﻮاﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻮردﻳّـﺔ واﻷ‬ ُ َ ُ ّ َ ُ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﺮﺗﻘﺎﻟﻲ أﺣﻤـﺮ أ‬ ‫ﺷـﺮﻳﻂ‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﻤﺎء اﻟﻤﻈﻠﻤـﺔ ﻣﻊ‬ ‫ـﺖ‬ ‫رﺟﻮاﻧﻲ‬ ِ ‫ اﻧﺪﻣﺠ‬.‫ﺑﺎﻟﺘﺪرﻳـﺞ‬ ٍ ُ ُ َ َ ‫واﻧﻘﺸ‬ ُ .‫ﻇﻼم اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻷﺳـﻔﻞ ﺑﻤﻼﻳﻴـﻦ اﻟﻤﺼﺎﺑﻴﺢ اﻟﺼﻐﻴﺮة‬ ‫ـﻊ‬ ،‫ﻓﻲ اﻷﻓﻖ‬

‫ ﺃﻋﻤﺪﺓ ﺍﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻷﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫ ﻣﻨﻈﺮ ﺍﻟﻐﺮﻭﺏ ﻋﻨﺪ ﺍﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬ ‫ ﻣﺸﻬﺪ ﺍﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺷﺎﺭﻉ ﺍﻟﺮﻳﻨﺒﻮ‬:‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

purple on the horizon and the darkness of the city below was broken by a million tiny points of light. And then the columns began to glow as if with an inner light as night crept silently over the city… What is it about ruins? Perhaps gently decaying beauty can appear more lovely and more humane than beauty in its pristine state. Perhaps, too, it’s that seductive sense of dropping out of our own imperfect lives into another world and another time – sometimes melancholy, occasionally brutal, often sublime, always intense. Ruins invite meditation on the unpredictability of life, and on the thought that glory is often more tolerable when dimmed. More than this, as Wordsworth wrote of the eﬀect of Nature on his spirit, so ruins touch my inner being… “… with the joy Of elevated thoughts; a sense sublime Of something far more deeply interfused, Whose dwelling is the light of setting suns, And the round ocean, and the living air, And the blue sky, and in the mind of man…” Footsteps interrupted my reverie. “We’re closing now”, a disembodied voice announced. I picked up my camera and, in the ﬁery afterglow of sunset, I followed his modern shadow away from all that sublimely dimmed ancient glory.

ُ ّ ّ ُ َ ّ ُ ً ‫ ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻛﺎن اﻟﻠﻴﻞ‬،‫ﻧـﻮرا داﺧﻠﻴًﺎ ﻳُﻀﻴﺌﻬـﺎ‬ ‫اﻷﻋﻤﺪة ﺗﺘﻮﻫ ُﺞ ﻛﻤﺎ ﻟﻮ أن‬ ‫ـﺖ‬ ِ ‫ﻋـﻢ راﺣ‬ ُ َ ‫ﻳﺰﺣـﻒ‬ .‫ﺑﺼﻤـﺖ ﻓـﻮق اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬ ٍ ُ ً َ َ ّ ‫وﻣﺎذا ﻫﻨﺎك ﺑﺸﺄن اﻷﻃﻼل؟‬ ُ ‫أﻛﺜﺮ ﻓﺘﻨﺔ وأﻛﺜﺮ‬ ‫ﻳﺴﺘﻄﻴﻊ اﻟﺠﻤﺎل اﻟﺬاوي أن ﻳﺒﺪو‬ ‫رﺑﻤﺎ‬ ً ّ َ‫إﻧﺴـﺎﻧﻴ ًﺔ ﻣـﻦ اﻟﺠﻤﺎل ﻓﻲ ﺣﺎﻟﺘـﻪ اﻟﺒ‬ ّ ّ .‫ﺪاﺋﻴﺔ‬ ‫رﺑﻤﺎ ﻫﻮ أﻳﻀﺎ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟﺮﻏﺒﺔ ﺑﺎﻻﻧﺴـﺤﺎب‬

َ ‫ﻣـﻦ ﺣﻴﺎﺗﻨﺎ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻔﺘﻘﺮ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻜﻤـﺎل إﻟﻰ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ‬ ‫ واﻟﺬي ﻗﺪ ﻳﻜﻮن‬-‫ووﻗﺖ آﺧﺮ‬ ‫آﺧﺮ‬ ٍ ٍ ً ً ً ً ّ ‫ ﺗﺪﻓﻌﻨﺎ اﻵﺛﺎر‬.‫ ﻣﺘﺴـﺎمٍ ﻏﺎﻟﺒﺎ وﻟﻜﻨﻪ ﻗـﻮي داﺋﻤﺎ‬،‫ﻗﺎس أﺣﻴﺎﻧﺎ أﺧﺮى‬ ٍ ،‫ﻛﺌﻴـﺐ أﺣﻴﺎﻧﺎ‬ ً ‫ﺗﺴـﺎﻣﺤﺎ‬ ‫إﻟـﻰ اﻟﺘﺄﻣﻞ ﺑـﺄن اﻟﺤﻴﺎة ﻻ ﻳﻤﻜﻦ أن ﻧﺘﻮﻗـﻊ أﺣﺪاﺛﻬﺎ وﺑﺄن اﻟﻤﺠﺪ أﻛﺜﺮ‬

‫ ﻛﻤﺎ ﻛﺘﺐ ووردس وورث ﻋﻦ ﺗﺄﺛﻴﺮ اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﺔ‬،‫ واﻷﻛﺜﺮ ﻣﻦ ﻫﺬا‬.‫ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﻳﺒﻬﺖ ﺑﻬﺎؤه‬ ُ ...‫ﺗﻠﻤﺲ اﻵﺛﺎر أﻋﻤﺎﻗﻲ‬ ‫ ﻫﻜﺬا‬،‫ﻓﻲ روﺣﻪ‬ ‫ﺑﻔﺮح‬...’’ ٍ

،‫ﺑﺄﻓﻜﺎر ﺳﺎﻣﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺑﺸﻌﻮر ﻣﻬﻴﺐ‬ ٍ ٍ ً ً‫ﻋﻤﻘﺎ واﻟﺘﺤﺎﻣﺎ‬ ‫ﺑﺸﻲ ٍء أﻛﺜﺮ‬ َ ‫ﻜﻨُﻪ ﻧﻮر اﻟﺸﻤﻮس اﻟﻐﺎرﺑﺔ‬ ِ ‫ﻣﺴ‬ ّ ‫اﻟﺪاﺋﺮي واﻟﻬﻮاء اﻟﺤﻲ‬ ‫واﻟﻤﺤﻴﻂ‬

ُ ‘‘...‫واﻟﺴﻤﺎء اﻟﺰرﻗﺎء و ﻋﻘﻞ اﻹﻧﺴﺎن‬

ً ٌ ُ ُ ‫ ’’ﺣـﺎن‬:‫ﻗﺎﺋﻼ‬ َ ‫وﻗﺖ إﻏﻼق‬ ‫ أﻋﻠﻦ ﺻﻮت ﺑﻼ ﺟﺴـﺪ‬.‫ﺧﻄـﻮات أﻗﺪام‬ ‫ﻗﺎﻃ َﻊ ﺳـﻠﻮﻲﺗ‬ َ َ ّ َ ّ ‫ﺖ آﻟﺔ اﻟﺘﺼﻮﻳﺮ‬ ُ ‫اﻟﺘﻘ ْﻄ‬ ّ ‫اﻟﻨﺎري ﻟﻠﺸﻤﺲ اﻟﻐﺎرﺑﺔ‬ ‫ و اﻟﺸﻔﻖ‬،‫ﺧﺎﺻﺘﻲ‬ .‘‘‫اﻟﻤﻜﺎن اﻵن‬ ّ ّ ً َ ‫ﺑﺴﻤﻮ‬ َ ‫ﻛﻞ ذﻟﻚ اﻟﻤﺠﺪ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻢ اﻟﺬي َﺧ َﻔ‬ ُ ّ ‫ﺗﺒﻌﺖ ﻇﻠﻪ اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺚ ﺑﻌﻴﺪا ﻋﻦ‬ .‫وﻣﻬﺎﺑﺔ‬ ‫ﺖ‬

ُ ّ‫ﻧﻬﺎﻳﺔ ﺷﺎرع ﺨدي‬ ٍ

Rami Daher |

The End of an Ordinary Street

It was 9 o'clock in the morning in an ordinary street of this ordinary neighborhood in 1970 when this young boy aged 5 hurried up the public stairs (Daraj Al Sa'adi) with his cousin, each carrying a tray of homemade unbaked oregano pastries. They were anxious to head to Abu Mahmoud’s bakery on the upper street (Share' Mohammad Iqbal) to get the trays baked and then hurry back down to their grandparents’ house, on the slopes between Sa'adi and Mohammad Iqbal Streets, where their two aunts were preparing a delicious breakfast of fried eggs and potatoes, kishkeh and other delicacies. They often spent the weekend at their aunt's house, especially with their homes being only a few meters away on Mohammad Iqbal Street. The highlight of the weekend was when other cousins and local friends came over and they would all play in the open space (housh) between the houses, on the Stairs, and on the Street. Celebrating special events such as Eid Al Fiter was a big thing at my aunt's house; the whole family and many friends would visit. Christmas was another special event, and I still remember the big Christmas tree at the Bisharats. The architecture of the houses on the Street and on Sa'adi Stairs was ordinary in the sense that it was not glamorous or extravagant. It was grand, yet understated; elegant, yet unpretentious. The Street was a perfect playground for kids as not many cars passed by during the day. For young girls the Steps were the optimal play area with wide landings accommodating popular games such as rope jumping (Nat Al habel) and skipping (Hijleh). The Street provided a healthy mix of ordinary shops and houses. On the one hand you had Abu Hani the grocer, Nihad the tailor and Shakeeb the shoe repairman. One the other hand, you also had the stone-walled empty land with the remains of Samir Al Rifai's house which constituted a perfect mystery playground. The neighborhood consisted of a mosaic of ordinary families of diﬀerent backgrounds, religions, ethnicities, and even socioeconomic means. The Abbadis, the Bisharats, the Abu Kalams, the Dahers, the Qardans, the Mdanats, the Khoolys, the Tells,

Left: Walking Home

َ ُ َ ً ّ ّ ّ ٍ ‫اﻟﻌﺎدي ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻲ‬ ‫ﻋﺎدي ﻣﻦ ﻫﺬا‬ ‫ﺷـﺎرع‬ ‫ﺻﺒﺎﺣﺎ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﺖ اﻟﺴـﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺘﺎﺳـﻌﺔ‬ ِ ‫ﻛﺎﻧ‬ ّ َ ُ ّ ‫اﻟﺼﻐﻴﺮ ذو اﻟﺨﻤﺲ ﺳـﻨﻮات ﻳﺘﺴـﻠﻖ اﻟﺪرﺟﺎت‬ ‫اﻟﺼﺒﻲ‬ ‫م ﻋﻨﺪﻣـﺎ ﻫـﺮع ذﻟﻚ‬١٩٧٠ ّ ُ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻌﺎﻣـﺔ )درج اﻟﺴـﻌﺎدة( ﻣـﻊ اﺑﻦ‬ ‫ﺻﻴﻨﻴـﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻓﻄﺎﺋﺮ‬ ‫ وﺎﻛن ﻛﻞ ﻣﻨﻬﻤـﺎ ﻳﺤﻤﻞ‬،‫ﻋﻤـﻪ‬ ّ ُ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺮدﻗﻮش )اﻟﺰﻋﺘﺮ‬ ‫اﻟﺒﺮ ّي( ﻏﻴﺮ اﻟﻤﺨﺒﻮزة‬ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧﺎ ﻣﺘﻠﻬﻔﻴﻦ ﻟﻴﺬﻫﺒﺎ إﻟﻰ‬.‫واﻟﻤﻌﺪة ﺑﻴﺘﻴًﺎ‬

ّ َ ‫ﺨﺒﺰا اﻟﻔﻄﺎﺋﺮ‬ ِ ‫ﻣﺨﺒـﺰ ’’أﺑـﻮ ﻣﺤﻤﻮد‘‘ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺸـﺎرع اﻷﻋﻠﻰ )ﺷـﺎرع ﻣﺤﻤﺪ إﻗﺒـﺎل( ﻟﻴ‬ ّ َ ّ ‫ُﻋ‬ َ ُ‫ـﻢ ﻳ‬ ‫ﻬﺮﻋـﺎن ﻋﺎﺋﺪﻳـﻦ إﻟﻰ ﺑﻴـﺖ ﺟﺪﻫﻤﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﻨﺤﺪرات ﻣﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ ﺷـﺎرع ﺳـﻌﺎدة‬

ُ ّ ُ ّ ‫ﺣﻴﺚ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬ ّ ً ّ ‫ﻋﻤﺘﺎﻫﻤﺎ ﺗﻌﺪان‬ ‫ﻣﺤﻤﺪ إﻗﺒﺎل‬ ‫وﺷـﺎرع‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻘﻠﻲ‬ ‫إﻓﻄﺎرا ﺷﻬﻴًﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺒﻴﺾ‬ ّ ‫واﻟﺒﻄﺎﻃﺲ واﻟﻜﺸﻜﺔ وأﻃﻌﻤﺔ‬ .‫ﺷﻬﻴ ٍﺔ أﺧﺮى‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻛﺎﻧـﺎ ﻓﻲ أﻏﻠﺐ اﻷﺣﻴـﺎن ﻳُﻤﻀﻴﺎن ﻧﻬﺎﻳﺔ اﻷﺳـﺒﻮع ﻓﻲ ﺑﻴﺖ‬ ‫ﺳـﻴﻤﺎ أن‬ ‫ ﻻ‬،‫ﻋﻤﺘَﻴﻬﻤﺎ‬ ً ّ ‫ﺑﻴﺘَﻴﻬﻤـﺎ ﻛﺎﻧـﺎ ﻋﻠـﻰ ﺑُﻌﺪ‬ ‫ﻛﺎن‬.‫ﻣﺤﻤـﺪ إﻗﺒﺎل‬ ‫أﻣﺘـﺎر ﻣﻦ ﺑﻌﻀﻬﻤـﺎ ﺑﻌﻀﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺷـﺎرع‬ ٍ ُ ُ ٌ ُ ‫اﻟﺒﺎرز ﻓﻲ ﻧﻬﺎﻳﺔ اﻷﺳـﺒﻮع ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﻛﺎن‬ ‫وأﺻﺪﻗﺎء‬ ‫أﺑﻨﺎء ﻋﻤﻮﻣﺘﻬﻤﺎ اﻵﺧﺮون‬ ‫اﻟﺤﺪث‬ ّ ُ ُ ُ ‫اﻟﺠﻤﻴـﻊ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺤﻮش ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﺒﻴـﻮت وﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺪرﺟﺎت‬ ‫ﻳﻠﻌﺐ‬ ‫ﻣﺤﻠ ّﻴـﻮن ﻳﺠﺘﻤﻌـﻮن ﻋ ّﻢ‬

ُ ّ ‫اﻻﺣﺘﻔﺎل ﺑﺄﺣﺪاث‬ ً ً ‫ﺧﺎﺻﺔ ﻣﺜﻞ ﻋﻴﺪ اﻟﻔﻄﺮ‬ ‫ﻋﻈﻴﻤﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺑﻴﺖ‬ ‫أﻣﺮا‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن‬.‫و اﻟﺸـﺎرع‬ ٍ ّ ُ َ ُ ّ ّ ٌ ّ َ‫ﻋﻤﺘ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن ﻋﻴﺪ اﻟﻤﻴﻼد‬.‫ﺖ اﻟﻌﺎﺋﻠﺔ ﻛﻠﻬـﺎ وأﺻﺪﻗﺎء ﻛﺜﻴﺮون ﻳﺄﺗﻮن ﻟﻠﺰﻳﺎرة‬ ِ ‫ـﻲ؛ إذ ﻛﺎﻧ‬ َ ً ‫َﺣ َﺪﺛًﺎ‬ ُ ‫ وﻻ أزال‬،‫ﺧﺎﺻﺎ آﺧﺮ‬ .‫أذﻛﺮ ﺷﺠﺮة اﻟﻤﻴﻼد اﻟﻜﺒﻴﺮة ﻓﻲ ﺑﻴﺖ اﻟﺒﺸﺎرات‬

ّ ُ ‫ﻛﺎن‬ ‫ ﺑﻤﻌﻨﻰ‬،‫اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎري ﻟﻠﺒﻴﻮت ﻓﻲ اﻟﺸﺎرع وﻋﻠﻰ درﺟﺎت اﻟﺴﻌﺎدة ﻋﺎدﻳًﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ‬ ً ّ ّ ٌ ّ ّ ً َ ٌ ً ً ‫ ﻛﺎن‬.‫ ﻛﺎن راﺋﻌﺎ ﻟﻜﻨﻪ ﻣﺘﺤﻔـﻆ؛ أﻧﻴﻘﺎ ﻟﻜﻨﻪ ﻣﺘﻮاﺿﻊ‬.‫ﻣﺒﻬـﺮا أو ﺑﺎذﺧﺎ‬ ِ ‫أﻧـﻪ ﻟﻢ ﻳﻜﻦ‬ ًّ َ ُ ّ .‫ﺎرات ﻛﺜﻴﺮة ﻓﻲ أﺛﻨـﺎء اﻟﻨﻬﺎر‬ ٍ ‫ﻟﻌﺐ ﻣﺜﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﻟـﻸوﻻد ﻟﻌﺪم ﻣﺮور ﺳـﻴ‬ ٍ ‫اﻟﺸـﺎرع ﺑﺎﺣـﺔ‬ َ ّ َ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﻤﺴﻄﺤﺎﺗﻬﺎ اﻟﻌﺮﻳﻀﺔ‬ ‫ﻟﻌﺐ ﻣﻔﻀﻠﺔ‬ ِ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧ‬،‫وﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴﺒﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺒﻨﺎت‬ ٍ ‫ﺖ اﻟﺪرﺟﺎت ﻣﻨﻄﻘﺔ‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﺷﻌﺒﻴﺔ ﻣﺜﻞ‬ .(‫ واﻟﻘﻔﺰ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻗﺪم واﺣﺪة )اﻟﺤﺠﻠﺔ‬،‫اﻟﻨﻂ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺤﺒﻞ‬ ‫ﻣﻤﺎ ﻳﻼﺋﻢ أﻟﻌﺎﺑًﺎ‬ ُ َ ‫اﻟﺸـﺎرع‬ ،‫ ﻣﻦ ﻧﺎﺣﻴﺔ‬.‫ﻣﻔﻴﺪ ﻣﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﺪﻛﺎﻛﻴﻦ اﻟﻌﺎدﻳّـﺔ واﻟﺒﻴﻮت‬ ‫ﺑﺸـﻜﻞ‬ ‫ﻳﺠﻤ ُﻊ‬ ‫وﺎﻛن‬ ٍ ٍ ّ ‫ وﻣـﻦ اﻟﻨﺎﺣﻴﺔ‬،‫اﻟﺨﻴﺎط وﺷـﻜﻴﺐ اﻟﻜﻨﺪرﺟﻲ‬ ‫ﻛﺎن ﻫﻨـﺎك دﻛﺎن أﺑـﻲ ﻫﺎﻧـﻲ وﻧﻬﺎد‬ ٌ ٌ ٌ ّ ‫ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﺑﻘﺎﻳﺎ ﺑﻴﺖ‬،‫اﻟﺤﺠﺮﻳـﺔ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻫﻨﺎك أرض ﺧﺎﻟﻴـﺔ ُﻣﺤﺎﻃﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﺠﺪران‬،‫اﻷﺧـﺮى‬ ً ّ َ ُّ ّ .‫ﻣﺜﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺳﺮ ّﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻟﻌﺐ‬ ٍ ‫ﺳﻤﻴﺮ اﻟﺮﻓﺎﻋﻲ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺗﺸﻜﻞ ﺳﺎﺣﺔ‬

ُ ّ ّ ُ ّ ‫اﻟﺨﻠﻔﻴﺎت‬ ‫اﻟﺤـﻲ ﻳﺘﺄﻟـﻒ ﻣـﻦ ﻓ َﺴﻴﻔﺴـﺎء ﻣﻦ اﻷﺳـﺮ اﻟﻌﺎدﻳّﺔ ﻣـﻦ ﻣﺨﺘﻠـﻒ‬ ‫ﻛﺎن‬ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫ إن ﻋﺎﺋـﻼت‬.‫ وﺣﺘـﻰ اﻟﻤـﻮارد اﻻﻗﺘﺼﺎدﻳـﺔ واﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﻴـﺔ‬،‫واﻟﺪﻳﺎﻧـﺎت واﻷﻋـﺮاق‬ َ َ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻌﺒـﺎدي واﻟﺒﺸـﺎرات وأﺑـﻮ ﻛﻠـﻢ واﻟﻀﺎﻫﺮ واﻟﻘـﺮدان واﻟﻤﺪاﻧﺎت واﻟﺨـﻮ واﻟﺘﻞ‬

‫ ﻓﻲ ﺃﺛﻨﺎﺀ ﺍﻟﺴﻴﺮ ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﺒﻴﺖ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬

‫راﻲﻣ ﺿﺎﻫﺮ‬

the Hadidis, the Na'na'ahs, the Ghanmas, the Ammareens, the Hashems, the Sharehs, the Itanis, the Shamm'as, the Safadis, the Bakheets, and the Wishahs are only some of the families that I can remember 45 years after being born and raised there. But that diverse rainbow of families managed perfectly well to co-exist, socialize, make real friendships, and prosper. I left the neighborhood many years ago but several connections continued to bring me back: mainly my grandfather's house, but also neighbors, friends and local shopkeepers. It is very difficult to understand what draws you to a particular place, but as one grows older, memories grow in importance. As young men, we were told that nostalgia is a sign of weakness and surrender but I am gradually discovering that it is as legitimate as any other feeling such as love, hate, respect and fear and may even provide us with inspiration and energy to go forward. I was very fortunate to return to the neighborhood a couple of years ago after almost 30 years of absence. The decision to move back and locate my architecture practice here was a very conscious one. If there were a world prize for the neighborhood least changed over time, then my childhood Street and Steps would be the winners. I guess the pace of change differs from one part of the city to another. My grandfather's house of course was still there with one of my aunts still living in it; almost the same families still resided in the neighborhood but some had left. The Street had not changed much; the empty plot with the derelict remains, the grocery store, the tailor, and even the shoe repair shop were still there; but this time around it was Abu Shakeeb doing the repairs after taking over from his late father. Yet, I noticed some encouraging transformation as one architect's office moved into the Street. I was very relieved to observe that the changes the newcomer made to the building were humble, yet elegant. I guess I was not the only one who really understood the spirit of that place. And very close by and up the Street on the Hawooz Circle the same shops still functioned. For me, literally, it was like time stood still when once again I bought my medicine from Weibdeh pharmacy at the Hawooz. Since moving back, I drive through Mohammad Iqbal Street on a daily basis and still observe the merchants chatting or playing backgammon while sipping tea on its sidewalks. But during the past year or so I have noticed the beginning of a transformation. My aunt has left the neighborhood; the tailor passed away; due to the

ّ ‫واﻟﺸـﻤﺔ‬ ‫واﻟﺤﺪﻳـﺪ واﻟﻨﻌﻨـﺎع واﻟﻐﺎﻧـﻢ واﻟﻌﻤﺎرﻳـﻦ واﻟﻬﺎﺷـﻢ واﻟﺴـﺎرح واﻟﻌﻴﺘﺎﻧﻲ‬ ّ ُ ‫أﺳﺘﻄﻴﻊ أن أﺗﺬﻛﺮﻫﺎ ﺑﻌﺪ‬ ‫ ﻫﻲ ﺑﻌﺾ اﻟﻌﺎﺋﻼت اﻟﺘﻲ‬،‫واﻟﺼﻔﺪي واﻟﺒﺨﻴﺖ واﻟﻮﺷـﺎح‬

ّ ّ ‫أن ﻫﺬا‬ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺘﻨـﻮع ﻣﻦ اﻟﻌﺎﺋﻼت‬ ‫اﻟﻄﻴﻒ‬ ‫ ﻏﻴـﺮ‬.‫ ﺳـﻨﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻣﻮﻟﺪي وﻧﺸـﺄﺗﻲ ﻫﻨﺎك‬٤٥ َ َ ً َ ً‫ﻳﻨﺨﺮط ﻓـﻲ اﻟﻤﺠﺘﻤﻊ ﻣﻘﻴﻤﺎ‬ َ ‫ وأن‬،‫ﻧﺤﻮ ﻣﻤﺘﺎز‬ ٍ ‫ﻫـﺬا اﺳـﺘﻄﺎع أن ﻳﺘﻌﺎﻳﺶ ﻣﻌـﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ًّ .‫ﺣﻘﻴﻘﻴﺔ وﻣﺰدﻫﺮة‬ ‫ﺻﺪاﻗﺎت‬ ٍ ّ ً ُ َ ّ ّ ّ ‫رواﺑﻂ ﻋﺪﻳﺪة‬ ‫ﻟﻜﻦ‬ ،‫اﻟﺤﻲ ﻣﻨﺬ ﻋﺪة ﺳـﻨﻮات‬ ‫ﺗﺮﻛـﺖ‬ :‫اﺳـﺘﻤﺮت ﻓﻲ إﻋﺎدﺗﻲ إﻟﻴﻪ‬ ّ ّ ً ْ ّ ‫ﻟﻜﻦ أﻳﻀﺎ اﻟﺠﻴﺮان واﻷﺻﺪﻗـﺎء وأﺻﺤﺎب اﻟﻤﺤﺎل‬ ،‫رﺋﻴﺴـﻲ‬ ‫ﺑﺸـﻜﻞ‬ ‫ﺑﻴﺖ ﺟﺪي‬ ٍ ّ َ ُ ُ َ ّ ‫ﻚ إﻟـﻰ ﻣﻜﺎن‬ ْ ‫ﻟﻜﻦ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ‬ ،‫ﻣﻌﻴـﻦ‬ ‫ـﺪرك ﻣﺎ ﻳﺠﺬﺑ‬ ‫ ﻣـﻦ اﻟﺼﻌـﺐ أن ﺗ‬.‫اﻟﻤﺤﻠ ّﻴـﻮن‬ ٍ ً ّ ُ ّ ّ ُ ُ ُ ‫ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﻛﻨﺎ ﺷـﺒﺎﺑًﺎ ﻗﻴﻞ ﻟﻨـﺎ إن اﻟﺤﻨﻴﻦ إﻟﻰ‬.‫أﻫﻤ ّﻴﺔ‬ ‫ ﺗـﺰداد اﻟﺬﻛﺮﻳﺎت‬،‫اﻟﻤﺮء‬ ‫ﻳﻜﺒـﺮ‬ ٌ ُ ّ ْ َ ُ ّ ٌ ‫ﺑﺎﻟﺘﺪرﻳﺞ أﻧّﻪ‬ ‫أﻣﺮ ﻣﺸﺮوع‬ ‫ ﻟﻜﻨﻲ أﻛﺘﺸـﻒ‬،‫اﻟﻤﺎﺿﻲ ﻫﻮ ﻋﻼﻣﺔ ﺿﻌ ٍﻒ واﺳﺘﺴـﻼم‬ ُ ُ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻣﺜﻞ‬ ،‫ﺷـﻌﻮر آﺧﺮ‬ ‫أي‬ ‫ﻣﺜﻠﻪ‬ ‫ ﺑﻞ وﻗﺪ ﻳَ ِﻤﺪﻧﺎ‬،‫ﻛﺎﻟﺤﺐ واﻟﻜﺮا ِﻫﻴَـﺔ واﻻﺣﺘﺮام واﻟﺨﻮف‬ ٍ ّ .‫ﺑﺎﻹﻟﻬﺎم واﻟﻄﺎﻗﺔ ﻟﻠﺘﻘﺪم إﻟﻰ اﻷﻣﺎم‬ ً ُ ّ ‫ ﺳـﻨﺔ ﺗﻘﺮﻳﺒًﺎ ﻣﻦ ﻏﻴﺎﺑﻲ‬٣٠ ‫اﻟﺤﻲ ﻗﺒﻞ ﺳـﻨﺘﻴﻦ ﺑﻌﺪ‬ ‫ﻛﻨـﺖ ﻣﺤﻈﻮﻇﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻋﻮدﺗﻲ إﻟﻰ‬ ّ ً ‫اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎرﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﻜﺎن‬ ُ ‫ ﻛﺎن‬.‫ﻋﻨﻪ‬ .‫ﻗﺮارا واﻋﻴًﺎ‬ ‫ﻗﺮار اﻟﻌﻮدة وﻣﻤﺎرﺳـﺔ اﻟﻬﻨﺪﺳـﺔ‬

ٌّ ً َ ٌ ّ ‫ﺗﻐﻴـﺮ‬ ّ ‫ﻟﻠﺤﻲ اﻟﺬي‬ ّ ‫ ﻟﻜﺎن‬،‫ﺗﻐﻴ ًﺮا ﻃﻔﻴﻔﺎ ﺑﻤﺮور اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‬ ‫ﻋﺎﻟﻤﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻟـﻮ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻫﻨﺎك ﺟﺎﺋﺰة‬ َ ُ ّ ُ َ ‫أﻋﺘﻘﺪ أن ﺳـﺮﻋﺔ اﻟﺘﻐﻴﻴﺮ ﺗﺨﺘﻠﻒ ﻣﻦ‬ .‫اﻟﻔﺎﺋﺰﻳـﻦ‬ ‫ﺷـﺎرع ﻃﻔﻮﻟﺘـﻲ واﻟﺪرﺟﺎت ﻫﻤﺎ‬ ُ ُ ُ ّ ُ ‫ﻣﻜﺎن ﻣﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ إﻟﻰ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن ﻣﻨﺰل ﺟﺪي ﻻ ﻳﺰال ﻫﻨﺎك ﺣﻴﺚ ﻻ ﺗﺰال‬.‫ﻣﻜﺎن آﺧﺮ‬ ٍ ٍ ُ ُ ّ ً ُ ّ‫ ﻟﻜﻦ‬،‫اﻟﺤﻲ‬ ُ ُ ّ ‫ وﻻ ﺗﺰال اﻟﻌﺎﺋﻼت ﻧﻔﺴـﻬﺎ ﺗﻘﺮﻳﺒﺎ ﺗﺴـﻜﻦ‬،‫ﺗﻘﻴﻢ ﻓﻴﻪ إﺣﺪى ﻋﻤﺎﺗﻲ‬ ُ َ ّ ‫ ﻟﻢ‬.‫ﻏﺎدره‬ َ ً ‫اﻟﺸـﺎرع‬ ‫ﻳﺘﻐﻴ ِﺮ‬ ‫ﺑﻌﻀﻬـﺎ ﻗﺪ‬ ،‫ وﻗﻄﻌـﺔ اﻷرض اﻟﺨﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﻻ ﺗﺰال ﻫﻨﺎك‬،‫ﻛﺜﻴﺮا‬ ّ ُ ُ‫اﻟﻤﺮة ﻛﺎن أﺑﻮ ﺷﻜﻴﺐ ﻫﻮ َﻣﻦ ﻳ‬ ّ ‫ﻏﻴﺮ أﻧّﻪ ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬه‬ ‫ﺼﻠﺢ اﻷﺣﺬﻳﺔ ﺑﻌﺪﻣﺎ ﺗﺴﻠ َﻢ اﻟﻤﻬﻨﺔ‬ َ ُ َ ّ ُ ‫اﻧﺘﻘﻞ‬ ّ ُ ‫أﺣﺪ‬ ‫ ﺣﻴـﺚ‬،‫اﻟﻤﺸـﺠﻌﺔ‬ ‫ﻻﺣﻈﺖ ﺑﻌﺾ اﻟﺘﻐﻴﻴﺮات‬ ‫ ﻟﻜﻨﻲ‬.‫ﻣـﻦ أﺑﻴﻪ اﻟﺮاﺣـﻞ‬ ّ ُ ْ ُ ّ ‫ﺖ أن‬ ‫ﺷـﻌﺮت ﺑﺎﻻرﺗﻴﺎح ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﻻﺣﻈ‬ .‫اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎرﻳﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺸـﺎرع‬ ‫ﻣﻜﺎﺗﺐ اﻟﻬﻨﺪﺳـﺔ‬ ّ ً ْ َ ُ َ .‫اﻟﺘﻐﻴﻴـﺮات اﻟﺘﻲ ﻗﺎم ﺑﻬﺎ اﻟﻘﺎدﻣﻮن اﻟﺠﺪد ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺒﻨﻰ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻣﺘﻮاﺿﻌﺔ ﻟﻜﻨﻬﺎ أﻧﻴﻘﺔ‬ ِ ً ّ ُ َ َ َ َ ‫ وﻋﻠﻰ‬.‫أﻛﻦ اﻟﺸـﺨﺺ اﻟﻮﺣﻴﺪ اﻟﺬي أدرك ﺣﻘﻴﻘﺔ روح ذﻟﻚ اﻟﻤﻜﺎن‬ ِ ‫أﻋﺘﻘﺪ أﻧﻲ ﻟﻢ‬ ُ ً ُ ‫ﺗﺰال اﻟﺪﻛﺎﻛﻴﻦ‬ ّ ‫ﺟﺪا ﻓﻲ أﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺸﺎرع ﻋﻨﺪ‬ ‫ﻧﻔﺴﻬﺎ‬ ‫ ﻻ‬،‫دوار اﻟﺤﺎووز‬ ‫ﻣﺴﺎﻓﺔ ﻗﺮﻳﺒ ٍﺔ‬ َ َّ ّ َ ُ َ ً ُ ْ ّ ‫ ﻛﺎن اﻟﻮﺿﻊ ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴـﺒﺔ‬.‫ﺗﻤـﺎرس ﻋﻤﻠﻬـﺎ‬ ‫ وﻛﺄن اﻟﻮﻗـﺖ ﻗﺪ ﺗﻮﻗﻒ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ‬،‫ ﺣﺮﻓﻴﺎ‬،‫إﻟﻲ‬ ًّ ُ َ ّ .‫ﺻﻴﺪﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒﺪة ﻋﻨﺪ اﻟﺤﺎووز‬ ‫ﻣﺮة أﺧﺮى دواﺋﻲ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﺷﺘﺮﻳﺖ‬

ُ ُ ّ ‫أراﻗﺐ‬ ّ ‫اﻟﺴـﻴﺎرة ﻓﻲ ﺷـﺎرع‬ ّ ُ ‫اﻟﺘﺠﺎر‬ ‫ ﻻ أزال‬،‫ﻣﺤﻤﺪ إﻗﺒﺎل ﻳﻮﻣﻴًﺎ‬ ‫ﻣﻨﺬ ﻋﻮدﺗﻲ وأﻧﺎ أﻗﻮد‬ ّ .‫وﻫـﻢ ﻳﺘﺤﺪﺛـﻮن أو ﻳﻠﻌﺒﻮن ’’ﻃﺎوﻟﺔ اﻟﺰﻫﺮ‘‘ ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻳﺸـﺮﺑﻮن اﻟﺸـﺎي ﻋﻠﻰ اﻷرﺻﻔﺔ‬ ْ َ ْ ّ ّ ‫ت‬ ُ ‫ﻻﺣﻈ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺘﻲ‬ ‫ ﻏﺎدر‬:‫ـﺖ ﺧﻼل اﻟﻌﺎم اﻟﻤﺎﺿﻲ أو ﻧﺤﻮ ذﻟﻚ ﺑﺪاﻳـﺔ ﺗﻐﻴﻴﺮ‬ ‫ﻏﻴـﺮ أﻧﻲ‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫ أﺧﻠﻰ ﺻﺪﻳﻘﻲ‬،‫ وﺑﺴـﺒﺐ ﻗﻮاﻧﻴﻦ اﻹﻳﺠـﺎر اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة‬،‫اﻟﻤﻨﻴﺔ‬ ‫واﻟﺨﻴﺎط واﻓﺘﻪ‬ ،‫اﻟﺤﻲ‬

new rent laws, my friend Abu Shakeeb vacated his shop after it had been in his family for more than 50 years. I made it a point to drive through the Street today at around 5pm. I was very shocked that it was literally lifeless with closed shutters and almost no pedestrians. I looked down the Sa'adi Steps; they were empty and dark. What really astonishes me today is the rapid pace of this transformation in a place that had almost stood still for decades. Is it time now for my Street and my Steps to close a chapter in their lives and open another? I certainly hope not. I do not know how to express my feelings and reaction to these rapid changes, but my only consolation is that I know for a fact that this "ordinary Street" and these "ordinary Steps" have witnessed many glorious moments, for me anyways. But I also understand that one can never recreate the past; what is gone will never come back. Thank God for memories.

Sketch of Citadel from Wild Jordan Next page: Dusk Lighting

ّ ُ ‫ﻗﺮ‬ ّ .‫ ﺳـﻨﺔ‬٥٠ ‫دﻛﺎﻧﻪ ﺑﻌﺪ أن ﻛﺎن ﻓﻲ ُﻋﻬﺪة ﻋﺎﺋﻠﺘﻪ ﻷﻛﺜﺮ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻗﺼﺪ‬ ‫رت ﻋﻦ‬ ‫أﺑﻮ ﺷـﻜﻴﺐ‬ ٍ َ ُ َ ّ ‫أﻗﻮد‬ ُ ُ ً ‫ ﺻ ِﺪﻣﺖ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ وﺟﺪﺗﻪ‬.‫ﻣﺴﺎء ﻓﻲ اﻟﺸﺎرع اﻟﻴﻮم‬ ‫اﻟﺴﻴﺎرة ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺨﺎﻣﺴﺔ‬ ‫أن‬ ٌ ُ ً ً ً ْ ‫ ﻧﻈﺮت إﻟﻰ‬.‫ وﻣﺼﺎرﻳﻊ اﻟﻨﻮاﻓﺬ ﻣﻐﻠﻘﺔ وﻻ ﻳﻮﺟﺪ ﻣﺸﺎة ﺗﻘﺮﻳﺒﺎ‬،‫َﺣﺮﻓﻴﺎ ﺧﺎﻟﻴﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺤﻴﺎة‬

ُ ‫ ﻓﻜﺎﻧﺖ ﺧﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬،‫درﺟﺎت اﻟﺴﻌﺎدة‬ .‫وﻣﻈﻠﻤﺔ‬

ُ ً ّ ّ ‫ﻣﻜﺎن ﺑَ ِﻘ َﻲ ﺛﺎﺑﺘًﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﺤﻮل ﻓﻲ‬ ‫إن ﻣـﺎ ﻳُﺬﻫﻠﻨﻲ ﺣﻘﺎ اﻟﻴﻮم ﻫﻮ ﺳـﺮﻋﺔ وﺗﻴﺮ ِة ﻫـﺬا‬ ٍ ً َ َ‫ ﻫﻞ ﺣﺎن اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﻟﻴ‬.‫ﻣـﺪى ﻋﻘﻮ ٍد ﻣﻦ دون ﺗﻐﻴﻴﺮ‬ ‫ﻄﻮي ﺷـﺎرﻋﻲ ودرﺟﺎﺗﻲ ﻓﺼﻼ ﻣﻦ‬ ّ ً ّ َ ُ ‫ ﻻ أﻋﻠﻢ ﻛﻴﻒ‬.‫ﻳﺤﺪث ﻫﺬا‬ ‫ﺣﻴﺎﺗﻬـﻢ وﻳﻔﺘَﺤـﻮا ﻓﺼﻼ آﺧﺮ؟ أرﺟﻮ ﺑﻜﻞ ﺗﺄﻛﻴـﺪ أﻻ‬ ّ ّ ُ‫أ‬ ّ ‫ﻟﻜـﻦ ﻋﺰاﺋﻲ‬ ،‫ﻋﺒـﺮ ﻋﻦ ﻣﺸـﺎﻋﺮي ورد ﻓﻌﻠـﻲ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻫـﺬه اﻟﺘﻐﻴﻴﺮات اﻟﺴـﺮﻳﻌﺔ‬

َ ً ّ ّ ُ َ ّ ‫’’اﻟﺪرﺟﺎت‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺎدي‘‘ وﻫﺬه‬ ‫اﻟﻮﺣﻴﺪ ﻫﻮ أﻧﻲ أﻋﻠ ُﻢ ﺣﻘﻴﻘﺔ ﻣﻔﺎدﻫﺎ أن ﻫﺬا ’’اﻟﺸـﺎرع‬ ِ ّ ْ َ ّ ً ُ ً ّ ‫ ﺑﺎﻟﻨّﺴـﺒﺔ‬،‫ﻣﺠﻴﺪة ﻛﺜﻴﺮة‬ ‫أدرك أﻳﻀﺎ‬ ‫ ﻟﻜﻨﻲ‬.‫إﻟﻲ‬ ‫ﻟﺤﻈﺎت‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺎدﻳّﺔ‘‘ ﻗﺪ ﺷـﻬﺪت ﻛﻠﻬﺎ‬ ٍ ّ ّ َ َ ً َ ُ َ ُ ‫أﺷـﻜﺮ‬ ‫ وأﻧﺎ‬.‫ﻠـﻖ اﻟﻤﺎﺿﻲ؛ ﻓﻤﺎ ﻗﺪ و ﻟﻦ ﻳﻌﻮد أﺑﺪا‬ ِ ‫أن اﻟﻤـﺮء ﻻ ﻳﺴـﺘﻄﻴﻊ إﻋﺎدة ﺧ‬ .‫اﷲ ﻋﻠـﻰ اﻟﺬﻛﺮﻳـﺎت‬

‫ﺑﺮﻳّﺔ ﺍﻷﺭﺩﻥ‬ ّ ‫ﺳﻜﺘﺶ ﺟﺒﻞ ﺍﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ ﺃﻟﻮﺍﻥ ﻧﻮﺭ ﺍﻟﻐﺴﻖ‬:‫ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

56 56

ّ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﻲﺘ أﺣﺐ‬ ّ

Mamdouh Bisharat |

My Amman

Born in Amman and educated in Egypt, I have lived here permanently since 1961. My family originated in Salt, moving to Amman in 1924 when this became the capital.

ّ ُ ّ ‫ﻟـﺪت ﻓﻲ‬ ُ ‫ وأﻧـﺎ‬،‫وﺗﻠﻘﻴﺖ ﺗﻌﻠﻴﻤﻲ ﻓﻲ ِﻣﺼﺮ‬ ‫أﻗﻴﻢ ﻫﻨﺎ ﺑﺼﻮر ٍة داﺋﻤﺔ ﻣﻨﺬ ﻋﺎم‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ُو‬ ْ َ ُ ّ ‫اﻧﺘﻘﻠﻨﺎ إﻟﻰ‬ ‫م‬١٩٢٤ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻓـﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ ‫وﻗـﺪ‬ ،‫ ﻳﻌـﻮد أﺻـﻞ ﻋﺎﺋﻠﺘﻲ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺴـﻠﻂ‬.‫م‬١٩٦١ ِ ّ ‫ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﺻﺎرت‬ .‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﻌﺎﺻﻤﺔ‬

As well as land in Mukheibeh and the family home in Jabal Joﬀeh (where I was born and still live to this day), our family owned a large farm in Oum al-Kundum and so I grew up in a household where everything we ate was home-grown, not just the fruit and vegetables, but also the wheat for our bread. I remain passionate about organic farming, and still today eat wholesome fruit and vegetables grown on my land. With the arrival of the Airport Road in 1979, however, our farm was cut in half; land prices rose, and the remaining farms were split up and sold, to make way for the universities and other buildings that line the route to the airport.

‫أرض ﻓـﻲ ’’ﻣﺨﻴﺒﺔ‘‘ وﺑﻴﺖ اﻟﻌﺎﺋﻠﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺒـﻞ اﻟﺠﻮﻓﺔ )ﺣﻴﺚ ُو ِﻟﺪت‬ ٍ ‫ﺑﺎﻹﺿﺎﻓـﺔ إﻟﻰ‬ ً ً ُ ّ ‫ وﻟﺬﻟﻚ ﻧﺸـﺄت ﻓﻲ‬،‫ ﺗﻤﻠـﻚ ﻋﺎﺋﻠﺘﻲ ﻣﺰرﻋﺔ ﻛﺒﻴﺮة ﻓﻲ أم اﻟﻜﻨﺪم‬،(‫وﻻ أزال أﻋﻴـﺶ‬ ّ ُ َ ُ ‫ ﺑﻞ‬،‫ ﻟﻴﺲ ﻓﻘﻂ اﻟﻔﻮاﻛـﻪ واﻟﺨﻀﺮ‬،‫ﺑﻴـﺖ ﺣﻴـﺚ ﻛﺎن ﻛﻞ ﻃﻌﺎ ِﻣﻨﺎ ﻳُـﺰرع ﻓﻲ اﻟﺒﻴﺖ‬ ٍ ُ ً ُ ّ ّ ُ ً َ ‫ وﻻ‬،‫ ﻣﺎ زﻟﺖ ﻣﺘﺤﻤﺴـﺎ ﻟﻠﺰراﻋـﺔ اﻟﻌﻀﻮﻳﺔ‬.‫أﻳﻀـﺎ اﻟﻘﻤـﺢ اﻟﺬي ﻧﺤﺘﺎج إﻟﻴﻪ ﻟﻠﺨﺒﺰ‬

Back in the 1960s though, Amman was a city of just 600,000 inhabitants, spread out over the undulating landscape with a peaceful serenity. From my house in Jabal Joﬀeh I could see the Roman Theatre, Raghadan Palace and the west side of Jabal Weibdeh. King Talal Street nearby was predominantly an area of artisans’ workshops: saddle-makers, farwajis (makers of lambswool overcoats), munajdeen (wool mattress makers), sieve-makers and mubaydeen, who made embellished copper kitchenware. The Jabals were dotted about with stonemasons sheltering under their zinc umbrellas as they chipped away at the limestone to build the typical Ammani houses.

ّ ُ ّ ّ ُ ً ّ ّ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻓﻲ ﺳﺘ‬ ّ ‫أن‬ ‫ ﻧﺴﻤﺔ‬٦٠٠,٠٠٠ ‫ﻴﻨﻴﺎت اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻤﺎﺿﻲ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻳﺒﻠﻎ ﻋﺪد ﺳﻜﺎﻧﻬﺎ‬ ‫إﻻ‬ ّ ُ ُ ّ ‫ ﻛﻨﺖ أﺳﺘﻄﻴﻊ أن أرى ﻣﻦ ﻣﻨﺰ‬.‫ﻣﻮزﻋﻴﻦ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻷراﺿﻲ اﻟﻤﺘﻤﻮﺟﺔ ﺑﻄﻤﺄﻧﻴﻨﺔ وﺳﻼم‬

In those days traffic was minimal; there were no traffic lights, no one-way streets and widespread free parking. Such was the rarity of cars then that our number-plate was 69. Similarly, the smaller population meant that our PO box number was 27 (and still is) and our telephone number comprised just four digits. Life was so much simpler then. The cultural scene was limited to one or two events annually at the Roman Theatre, two or three cinemas, and people gathering at different cafés as their meeting point. Humility was a part of our culture, and the rich could almost be counted on

Left: Duke's Welcome Next page: Pigeon Time

َ ُ ّ ‫ ﻏﻴﺮ‬.‫اﻟﺼﺤ ّﻴـﺔ اﻟﻤﺰروﻋﺔ ﻓﻲ أرﺿﻲ‬ ‫أزال إﻟـﻰ ﻳﻮﻣﻨـﺎ ﻫﺬا أﺗﻨﺎول اﻟﻔﺎﻛﻬﺔ واﻟﺨﻀﺮ‬ َ ّ ْ َ ْ َ َ ‫ﺖ ﻣﺰرﻋﺘُﻨﺎ‬ ‫وارﺗﻔﻌﺖ أﺳﻌﺎر‬ ،‫ﻗﺴﻤﻴﻦ‬ ‫ اﻧﻘﺴﻤ‬،‫م‬١٩٧٩ ‫أﻧﻪ ﺑﺸ ّﻖ ﻃﺮﻳﻖ اﻟﻤﻄﺎر ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ ُ ّ ْ َ ّ ‫وﺑﻴﻌﺖ ﻹﻓﺴـﺎح اﻟﻤﺠـﺎل أﻣﺎم اﻟﺠﺎﻣﻌﺎت‬ ‫أت اﻟﻤﺰارع اﻟﻤﺘﺒﻘﻴﺔ‬ ِ ‫ وﺗﺠﺰ‬،‫اﻷراﺿـﻲ‬ ّ .‫واﻟﻤﺒﺎﻧﻲ اﻷﺧﺮى اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻘﻊ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﺎﻧﺒﻲ اﻟﻄﺮﻳﻖ اﻟﻤﺘﺠﻪ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﻄﺎر‬

َ َ ّ ‫واﻟﺠﺎﻧﺐ اﻟﻐﺮ ّ ﻣﻦ ﺟﺒﻞ‬ ‫اﻟﺮوﻣﺎﻧﻲ وﻗﺼﺮ رﻏﺪان‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺴﺮح‬ ‫اﻟﻮاﻗﻊ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﺠﻮﻓﺔ‬ َ ّ ّ ‫ ﻣﻦ‬:‫ﻟﻠﺤﺮﻓﻴﻴﻦ‬ ِ ‫ وﺎﻛن ﺷﺎرع اﻟﻤﻠﻚ ﻃﻼل اﻟﻘﺮﻳﺐ ﻣﻨﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻐﺎﻟﺐ ﻣﻨﻄﻘﺔ ورش‬.‫اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒﺪة‬ ّ ّ ‫واﻟﻔﺮو‬ َ ‫ واﻟﻤﻨﺠﺪﻳﻦ‬،(‫ﺟﻴﻴﻦ )ﺻﺎﻧﻌﻲ اﻟﻤﻌﺎﻃﻒ ﻣﻦ ﺻﻮف اﻟﺨﺮوف‬ ،‫ﺻﺎﻧﻌﻲ اﻟﺴﺮوج‬ ّ ّ ،‫ وﺻﺎﻧﻌﻲ اﻟﻤﻨﺎﺧﻞ‬،(‫اﻟﺼﻮﻓﻴﺔ‬ ‫)ﺻﺎﻧﻌﻲ اﻟﻔﺮش‬ ‫أدوات‬ ‫واﻟﻤﺒﻴﻀﻴﻦ اﻟﺬي ﻛﺎﻧﻮا ﻳﺼﻨﻌﻮن‬ ِ ّ ّ ّ َ ‫ وﺎﻛن ﻧﺤﺎﺗﻮ اﻟﺤﺠﺎرة واﻟﺒﻨﺎؤون ﻳﻨﺘﺸﺮون ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺠﺒﺎل‬.‫اﻟﻤﻄﺒﺦ اﻟﻨﺤﺎﺳﻴﺔ اﻟﻤﺰﺧﺮﻓﺔ‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺠﻴﺮﻳﺔ ﻟﺒﻨﺎء ﺑﻴﻮت‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻣﻈﻼت ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫اﻟﺰﻧﻚ ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻳﻘﻄﻌﻮن اﻷﺣﺠﺎر‬ ‫وﻳﺤﺘَﻤﻮن ﺗﺤﺖ‬ ٍ ّ .‫اﻟﻨﻤﻮذﺟﻴﺔ‬

ٌ ّ ‫ وﻟﻢ ﺗﻜﻦ ﻫﻨﺎك إﺷـﺎرات‬،‫ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺣﺮﻛﺔ اﻟﺴـﻴﺮ ﻓـﻲ ﺣﺪﻫﺎ اﻷدﻧـﻰ‬،‫ﻓـﻲ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻷﻳّـﺎم‬ ٌ ُ ّ ُ َ ّ ‫واﺳـﻌﺔ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻣﺠ‬ ّ ‫َﺿ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧ ِﺖ‬.‫ﻟﻠﺴـﻴﺎرات‬ ‫ﺎﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫ وﻻ ﻣﻮاﻗـﻒ‬،‫ وﻻ ﺷـﻮارع ﺑﺎﺗﺠـﺎهٍ واﺣﺪ‬،‫ﻮﺋﻴـﺔ‬ ّ ّ ً ُ ُ ّ ّ ‫ ﻛﺎن ﻋﺪد‬،‫ﻧﺤﻮ ُﻣﺸـﺎﺑِﻪ‬ ٍ ‫ وﻋﻠﻰ‬.٦٩ ‫اﻟﺴـﻴﺎرات ﻧﺎدرة ﺣﺘﻰ إن رﻗﻢ ﻟﻮﺣﺔ ﺳـﻴﺎرﺗﻨﺎ ﻛﺎن‬ ّ ُ ّ ‫ وﺎﻛن رﻗﻢ‬،(‫ )وﻫﻮ ﻻ ﻳﺰال ﻛﺬﻟﻚ‬٧٧ ‫اﻟﺴﻜﺎن اﻟﻘﻠﻴﻞ ﻳﻌﻨﻲ أن رﻗﻢ ﺻﻨﺪوق ﺑﺮﻳﺪﻧﺎ ﻛﺎن‬ ًّ َ ُ َ ‫اﻟﺤﻴﺎة ﻓﻲ ذﻟﻚ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‬ .‫أﺑﺴﻂ ﺑﻜﺜﻴﺮ‬ ‫ ﻟﻘﺪ ﻛﺎﻧ ِﺖ‬.‫ﻫﺎﺗﻔﻨﺎ ﻣﺆﻟﻔﺎ ﻣﻦ أرﺑﻌﺔ أرﻗﺎم ﻓﻘﻂ‬ َ ّ ُ ً ّ ً َ‫ ﻓﻜﺎن ﻣﻘﺘ‬،‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻲ‬ ّ ّ ‫ و‬،‫ﺳﻨﻮﻳﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺮوﻣﺎﻧﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺪرج‬ ‫ﺼﺮا ﻋﻠﻰ ﺣﺪﺛﻴﻦ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺸﻬﺪ‬ ‫أﻣﺎ‬ َ ‫ وﺎﻛن اﻟﻨﺎس ﻳﺠﺘﻤﻌﻮن ﻓﻲ ﻋـﺪ ٍد ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻘﺎﻫﻲ ﻫﻲ ﻧﻘﻄﺔ‬،‫دارﻳـﻦ أو ﺛﻼﺛﺔ ﻟﻠﺴـﻴﻨﻤﺎ‬

‫ ﺍﻻﺳﺘﻘﺒﺎﻝ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻨﺰﻝ ﺍﻟﺪﻭﻕ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬ ‫ ﻭﻗﺖ ﺗﺤﻠﻴﻖ ﺍﻟﺤﻤﺎﻡ‬:‫ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

‫ﻤﻣﺪوح ﺑﺸﺎرات‬

one hand. The rest of the population lived a decent and modest life making ends meet both materially and spiritually. One activity which was very popular then (and remains so now, to a lesser degree) was the raising of pigeons and, more specifically, the training of pigeons to chase and bring back with them other pigeons (known in Arabic as Kashshin el Hamam). I well remember how the pigeons would be released each afternoon by their owners; they would fly off, intermingle with other pigeons in mid-air and then, hopefully, bring back some of these other pigeons. The owner would then take his newly acquired bird or birds to a café in downtown Amman and negotiate a price with its owner for its return.

ّ ّ ُ ً ‫اﻟﺘﻮاﺿﻊ‬ ‫ وﺎﻛن ﺑﺎﻹﻣﻜﺎن ﻋﺪ‬،‫ﺟﺰءا ﻣﻦ ﺛﻘﺎﻓﺘﻨﺎ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن‬.‫ﺗﺠﻤﻌﻬﻢ وﻟﻘﺎءاﺗﻬﻢ‬ ّ ً ً ّ ‫ ﻋﺎش‬.‫اﻷﺛﺮﻳـﺎء ﻋﻠـﻰ أﺻﺎﺑﻊ اﻟﻴﺪ اﻟﻮاﺣـﺪة‬ ‫ﺑﻘﻴﺔ اﻟﺴـﻜﺎن ﺣﻴﺎة ﻛﺮﻳﻤﺔ‬ ّ َ ‫وﻣﺘَﻮاﺿﻌﺔ ﻳﺪﺑّﺮون‬ .‫أﻣﻮرﻫﻢ ﻣﺎدﻳًﺎ وروﺣﻴًﺎ‬ ًّ َ ‫ﺷﻌﺒﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ذﻟﻚ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ )وﻫﻲ ﻻ ﺗﺰال إﻟﻰ ﻳﻮﻣﻨﺎ‬ ‫أﺣ ُﺪ اﻷﻧﺸﻄﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬ ّ ً ‫ ﺗﺪرﻳﺐ‬،‫وﺑﺸـﻜﻞ أﻛﺜـﺮ ﺗﺤﺪﻳﺪا‬ ،‫ﻫـﺬا ﺑﺪرﺟـ ٍﺔ أﻗﻞ( ﻛﺎن ﺗﺮﺑﻴﺔ اﻟﺤﻤﺎم‬ ٍ ّ ُ ‫اﻟﺤﻤـﺎم ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻄﺎردة ﺣﻤﺎﺋﻢ أﺧـﺮى وﺟﻠﺒﻬﺎ ﻣﻌﻪ‬ َ ‫)وﻳ‬ ‫ﻌﺮﻓﻮن ﻓﻲ اﻟﻌﺎﻣ ّﻴﺔ‬ ِ َ ُ ّ ْ ُ .(‘‘‫ﻴﺸـﻲ اﻟﺤﻤﺎم‬ ‫أذﻛﺮ ﻛﻴﻒ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ اﻟﺤﻤﺎﺋﻢ ﺗﻄﻠﻖ ﺑﻌﺪ ﻇﻬﺮ‬ ِ ‫ﺑﺎﺳـﻢ ’’ﻛﺸ‬ ّ َ ‫ﺑﺤﻤﺎﺋـﻢ أﺧﺮى ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﻛﻞ ﻳـﻮم ﻣـﻦ ﻗِﺒَﻞ ﻣﺎﻟﻜﻴﻬـﺎ؛ وﺎﻛﻧﺖ ﺗﻄﻴـﺮ وﺗﺨﺘﻠﻂ‬ َُ َّ ً َ ّ .‫ﺗﺠﻠﺐ ﻣﻌﻬـﺎ ﺑﻌﻀﺎ ﻣﻦ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟﺤﻤﺎﺋﻢ اﻷﺧﺮى‬ ‫ﺗﺄﻣﻞ أن‬ ‫ وﻣﻦ ﻋﻢ‬،‫اﻟﺠـﻮ‬ َ َ ُ ُ ُ ً ّ ‫ـﺬ‬ َ ّ ‫ُﻋ‬ َ ‫اﻟﻄ‬ ‫اﻟﻄﻴﻮر اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ‫ﻴﺮ أو‬ ‫ـﻢ ﻛﺎن ﻣﺎﻟﻚ اﻟﺤﻤﺎم ﻳﺄﺧ‬ ‫ﺣﺼﻞ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ ﺣﺪﻳﺜﺎ‬ ُ ّ ‫ﺳﻌﺮ ﻣﻊ ﻣﺎﻟﻜﻬﺎ‬ ٍ ‫ وﻳﺒﺪأ ﻳﺘﻔﺎوض ﻋﻠﻰ‬،‫إﻟﻰ ﻣﻘﻬﻰ ﻓﻲ وﺳﻂ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ّ .‫اﻷﺻﻠﻲ ﻹرﺟﺎﻋﻬﺎ إﻟﻴﻪ‬

Present-day Amman is very different from that serene, leisurely picture: tall buildings now dominate the skyline, malls have replaced the small enterprises, and King Talal Street has become an arcade of imported goods. Driving is a nightmare, and with all these changes, people’s attitudes towards one another have inevitably changed too. One thing that has remained constant for me throughout these times of change has been my love for art - for our archaeological heritage, for works of art and for poetry. The Museum of Fine Art, Darat Al-Funun, the Abu Jaber Museum in Salt and the Diwan downtown in Amman – all represent my love of things beautiful and my desire to share these with all who are interested. I like to create art myself, too, and each summer I construct installations in the garden of my home and welcome like-minded people to come and appreciate them. My favourite aspect of Amman? - without a doubt my home in Jabal Joffeh, where I can escape the noise and bustle of this dynamic city and reflect in the peace and quiet of my beautiful old house and garden.

ّ ً ٌ ّ ُ ُ‫اﻟﻤﺘﻤﻬﻠـﺔ؛ إذ ﺗ‬ ‫ﻬﻴﻤﻦ اﻟﻤﺒﺎﻧﻲ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن اﻟﻴـﻮم ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻔﺔ ﺟﺪا ﻋﻦ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟﺼـﻮرة اﻟﻬﺎدﺋﺔ‬ ّ َ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺘﺠﺎرﻳﺔ اﻟﻜﺒﺮى ﻣﻜﺎن اﻟﻤﺸﺎرﻳﻊ‬ ‫ﺖ اﻟﻤﺮاﻛﺰ‬ ِ ‫ وﺣﻠ‬،‫اﻟﻤﺮﺗﻔﻌﺔ اﻟﻴﻮم ﻋﻠﻰ ﺧﻂ اﻷﻓﻖ‬ ً ُ َ ‫اﻟﺒﻀﺎﺋﻊ‬ ‫اﻷروﻗﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺤـﻮي‬ ‫ وﺻﺎر ﺷـﺎرع اﻟﻤﻠﻚ ﻃﻼل ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋـﺔ ﻣﻦ‬،‫اﻟﺼﻐﻴـﺮة‬ ِ ْ َ ً ْ ّ ُ ّ ‫ﻗﻴﺎدة‬ ً َ َ‫اﻟﻤﺴـﺘ‬ ‫ ﺗﻐﻴﺮت أﻳﻀﺎ‬،‫ وﺑﻬﺬه اﻟﺘﻐﻴﻴﺮات ﺟﻤﻴﻌﻬﺎ‬.‫ﻛﺎﺑﻮﺳﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺴﻴﺎرة‬ ‫وﺻﺎرت‬ ،‫ﻮردة‬ ُ ً ّ .‫ﺣﺘﻤﻴﺔ ﻣﻮاﻗﻒ اﻟﻨﺎس ﺗﺠﺎه ﺑﻌﻀﻬﻢ ﺑﻌﻀﺎ‬ ‫ﺑﺼﻮر ٍة‬ َ ّ ُ ّ ‫ﻃﻮال ﻓﺘﺮة اﻟﺘﻐﻴﻴﺮ ﻫﺬه ﻫﻮ‬ ّ ‫ﺣﺒﻲ‬ ُ ّ ‫ﻇﻞ ﺛﺎﺑﺘًﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴـﺒﺔ‬ -‫ﻟﻠﻔﻦ‬ ‫إﻟﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﻮﺣﻴﺪ اﻟﺬي‬ ‫واﻷﻣﺮ‬ ّ َ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫ إن ُﻣﺘﺤﻒ اﻟﻔﻨـﻮن اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻠﺔ ودارة‬.‫واﻟﺸـﻌﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫اﻷﺛـﺮي وﻟﻠﻤﺆﻟﻔـﺎت اﻟﻔﻨ ّﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻟﺘُﺮاﺛﻨـﺎ‬

ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺴـﻠﻂ واﻟﺪﻳﻮان ﻓﻲ وﺳﻂ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ّ ‫اﻟﻔﻨﻮن وﻣﺘﺤﻒ أﺑﻮ ﺑﻜﺮ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ ﺗﻤﺜﻞ ﻫﺬه‬-‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ّ ‫ﺟﻤﻴﻌﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺣﺒﻲ ﻟﻸﺷـﻴﺎء اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻠﺔ ورﻏﺒﺘﻲ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺸـﺎرﻛﺔ ﻫﺬه اﻷﺷﻴﺎء ﻣﻊ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ اﻟﺬﻳﻦ‬ ّ َ ً ً ً ّ .‫اﻫﺘﻤﺎﻣـﺎ ﺑﻬـﺎ‬ ُ ‫ﻳﺤـﻮزون‬ ‫أﺻﻨﻊ‬ ،‫ و ﻛﻞ ﺻﻴﻒ‬،‫أﺣﺐ أن أﺑﺘـﺪع ﻓﻨﺎ ﺑﻨﻔﺴـﻲ أﻳﻀـﺎ‬ َ ّ ُ َ ‫ﺗﻤﺎﺛﻴـﻞ ﻓﻲ ﺣﺪﻳﻘﺔ ﻣﻨﺰ وأرﺣﺐ ﺑﺎﻷﺷـﺨﺎص اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﻳﺸـﺎرﻛﻮﻧﻨﻲ اﻟﺘﻔﻜﻴﺮ ﻧﻔﺴـﻪ‬ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﻔﻀﻞ ﻋﻨﺪي ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ ﻣﺎ اﻟﺠﺎﻧﺐ‬.‫ﻟﻴﺄﺗﻮا وﻳﻘﺪروﻫﺎ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن؟ إﻧﻪ ﻣﻨﺰ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﺠﻮﻓﺔ‬ ُ ّ ُ ُ ّ ‫ وأﻣﻀﻲ‬،‫اﻟﺪﻳﻨﺎﻣﻴﺔ وﺻﺨﺒﻬﺎ‬ ‫أﻫﺮب ﻣﻦ ﺿﺠﻴﺞ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫دون أدﻧﻰ ﺷـﻚ؛ ﺣﻴﺚ‬ ّ .‫وﻗﺘًﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﺄﻣﻞ ﻓﻲ أﺟﻮاء اﻟﺴﻼم واﻟﻬﺪوء ﻓﻲ ﻣﻨﺰ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻢ اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻞ وﺣﺪﻳﻘﺘﻪ‬

Right: Duke's View

‫ ﻣﻨﻈﺮ ﻣﻦ ﻣﻨﺰﻝ ﺍﻟﺪﻭﻕ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬

The steep slopes of Jabal Amman are a maze of steps and alleyways, which oﬀer the pedestrian more direct pathways than the motorists’ elongated windings.

ُ ِّ ُ ُ ‫ﺗﺸﻞﻜ‬ ‫اﻤﻟﻮﺟﻮدة‬ ‫اﻻﺤﻧﺪارات‬ ً َّ ‫ﻲﻓ ﺟﺒﻞ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻣﺘﺎﻫﺔ ﻣﻦ‬ َّ ‫ واﻟﻲﺘ‬،‫اﻷدراج واﻷزﻗﺔ‬ ُ ِّ َ ‫ﺑﻄﺮق ﻣﺒﺎﺮﺷ ٍة‬ ‫ﺗﺰود اﻤﻟﺸﺎة‬ ٍ ‫اﻻﺤﻛﻔﺎﻓﺎت‬ ‫أﺮﺳع ﻣﻦ ﺗﻠﻚ‬ ِ ُ ‫اﻟﻄﻮﻳﻠﺔ اﻟﻲﺘ ﻳﺴﻠﻜﻬﺎ ﺳﺎﺋﻘﻮ‬ َ .‫اﻤﻟﺮﻛﺒﺎت‬

ً‫ﻟﻮ ﻛﻨﺖ د ًﻼ ﺳﻴﺎﺣﻴﺎ‬

Chris Johnson |

If I Were aTour Guide

If I were a tour guide I wouldn’t start at the eighth-century Umayyad Palace on Jabal al-Qalaá, or the 2000 year-old Roman Theatre; “the only significant monumental attractions” according to the guide books. Amman. “Unremarkable”, “uninteresting”, “few attractions”, the guide books have said; Not if I were a tour guide. “Unfortunately, modern Middle-Eastern architecture is extremely boring and Amman is no exception.” Not if I were a tour guide. I would start with steps, the wonderful pot-holed, eroding, badly restored flights of steps that link all those humble, hillside communities where real people live, to the crazy, dirty hustle of downtown Amman (going downhill of course!). Let’s start in Jabal Amman at the top of the steps just down the street from the love-it or hate-it architecture of Wild Jordan. The access is narrow and hard to find and the steps just concrete, worn by the passage of feet. But as you descend between unremarkable houses, you will catch a glimpse of families living their normal lives: feeding the cats, calling their children, enjoying breakfast on a sunlit terrace, smoking narghile (hookah pipe) in the evening after dinner. You will see pigeon keepers on the flat roofs calling in their birds, using large baggy nets to sweep them gently in from the sky. You will see small oases of greenery among the terraces and walls, where residents have ingeniously planted old olive-oil cans with bright flowers. You will see oddly decorated doors leading to secluded courtyards and some eccentric attempts to add ‘folk art’ decoration, as the hand rail turns into a simulated tree trunk, complete with knots and wood grain. And as you continue to descend, there’s the ever-present backdrop of the amazing view across the hills of Amman, captured through an alleyway, a missing doorway, a crack between buildings.

Left: Alleyways

ً َ ُ ُ ُ ‫ﻟـﻮ‬ ّ ‫اﻷﻣﻮي اﻟـﺬي ﻳﻌﻮد إﻟﻰ اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﺜﺎﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﺑﺘﺪأت ﺑﺎﻟﻘﺼﺮ‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ دﻟﻴﻼ ﺳـﻴﺎﺣﻴًﺎ ﻟ َﻤﺎ‬ ّ ‫ أو ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺴـﺮح‬،‫ﻋﻠـﻰ ﺟﺒـﻞ اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ‬ ‫ ﺳـﻨﺔ إﻟﻰ‬٢٠٠٠ ‫اﻟﺮوﻣﺎﻧـﻲ اﻟﺬي ﻳﺮﺟـﻊ ﺑﺘﺎرﻳﺨﻪ‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻷﺛﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻮراء؛ ’’اﻟﻤﻌﺎﻟﻢ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻬﻤﺔ اﻟﻮﺣﻴﺪة ذات اﻟﺠﺬب اﻟﺴـﻴﺎﺣﻲ‘‘ ﺑﺤﺴـﺐ ﻛﺘﺐ‬ ّ ّ .‫اﻟﺴﻴﺎﺣﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺪﻻﻟﺔ‬

ٌ ٌ ُ ُ ّ ُ ‫ ﻫﻜﺬا‬،‘‘‫ﺗﺠﺬب اﻻﻫﺘﻤﺎم‬ ‫ ’’أﻣﻜﻨﺔ ﻗﻠﻴﻠﺔ‬،‘‘‫ﻀﺠـﺮة‬ ِ ‫ ’’ﻣ‬،‘‘‫ﻋﻤـﺎن ’’ﻻ ﺗﻠﻔﺖ اﻻﻧﺘﺒﺎه‬ ّ ُ ُ ْ َ ّ .‫اﻟﺴﻴﺎﺣﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺐ اﻟﺪﻻﻟﺔ‬ ‫ﻗﺎﻟﺖ ﻛﺘ‬ ً ُ ‫ﻟﻴﺲ إذا‬ .‫ﻛﻨﺖ أﻧﺎ دﻟﻴﻼ ﺳﻴﺎﺣﻴًﺎ‬ ّ ً ُ ّ ،‫ﺟﺪا‬ ّ ّ ،‫اﻟﺤﻆ‬ ّ ‫وﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ﻀﺠـﺮ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎري اﻟﺸـﺮق‬ ‫اﻟﻔﻦ‬ ‫’’ﻟﺴـﻮء‬ ِ ‫اﻷوﺳـﻄﻲ اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺚ ﻣ‬ ً ‫ﻟﻴﺴﺖ‬ .‘‘‫اﺳﺘﺜﻨﺎء‬ ً ُ ‫ﻟﻴﺲ إذا‬ .‫ﻛﻨﺖ أﻧﺎ دﻟﻴﻼ ﺳﻴﺎﺣﻴًﺎ‬

ّ ُ ‫ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ اﻟﺪرﺟﺎت اﻟﺮاﺋﻌﺔ ذات اﻟﺤﻔﺮ اﻟﻜﺜﻴﺮة واﻟﻤﺘﺂﻛﻠﺔ‬-‫ﻛﻨﺖ ﺳﺄﺑﺪأ ﺑﺎﻟﺪرﺟﺎت‬ ّ ّ ‫واﻟﻤﺮﻣﻤﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻧﺤﻮ‬ ُ ‫ واﻟﺘﻲ‬،‫ﺳـﻴﺊ‬ ‫ﺗﺮﺑﻂ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ ﻫـﺬه اﻟﻤﺠﺘﻤﻌﺎت اﻟﻤﺘﻮاﺿﻌﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ٌ ّ ‫ﺣﻘﻴﻘﻴﻮن ﻓﻲ وﺳـﻂ‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺠﻨﻮﻰﻳ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ ‫ﻣﻨﺤﺪرات اﻟﺘﻼل ﺣﻴﺚ ﻳﺴـﻜﻦ أﺷـﺨﺎص‬ ً َ ُ ّ ّ ‫ﺣﻴﺚ‬ ‫اﻟﺼﺎﺧﺐ‬ (!‫اﻟﺰﺣﺎم واﻟﻘﺬارة )ﻧﺰوﻻ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺘﻼل ﺑﺎﻟﺘﺄﻛﻴﺪ‬ ُ ّ ُ ‫ﺧﻄﻮات ﻣﻦ اﻟﺸـﺎرع ﺣﻴﺚ‬ ‫ﻌﺪ‬ ِ ‫ﻟﻨﺒـﺪأ ﻣـﻦ ﺟﺒﻞ ﻋﻤﺎن ﻓﻲ أﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺪرﺟﺎت وﻋﻠﻰ ﺑ‬ ٍ ّ َ ُ ّ ‫ اﻟﺬي ﻳﻤﻜﻦ أن‬،‫اﻷردن‬ ُ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎري‬ ‫ﻃﺮﻳﻖ‬ .‫ﺗﺤﺒﻪ أو ﺗﻜﺮﻫﻪ‬ ‫ﻟﺒﺮ ّﻳﺔ‬ ‫أﺳـﻠﻮب اﻟﺒﻨﺎء‬ ْ ْ َ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻮﺻﻮل إﻟﻴﻪ‬ ُ ُ ‫ واﻟﺪرﺟﺎت‬،‫اﻟﻌﺜﻮر ﻋﻠﻴﻪ‬ ‫وﻳﺼﻌﺐ‬ ‫ﺿﻴ ٌﻖ‬ ‫اﺳﻤﻨﺘﻴﺔ ﺗﺂﻛﻠﺖ ﺑ ِﻔﻌﻞ ﻣﺮور‬ ّ ُ ّ َ َ‫ ﺳﺘ‬،‫ﻟﻠﻨﻈﺮ‬ ْ ‫ﻋﺎﺋﻼت‬ ‫ﻠﻤ ُﺢ‬ ‫ﻟﻜﻦ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﺗﻨﺰل ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﺒﻴﻮت ﻏﻴﺮ اﻟﻼﻓﺘﺔ‬ .‫اﻷﻗﺪام ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ‬ ٍ َ ُ ّ ُ ّ ‫ واﻟﺘﻤﺘﻊ‬،‫ وﻣﻨﺎداة اﻷوﻻد ﻣﻦ اﻟﺸـﺎرع‬،‫ إﻃﻌﺎم اﻟﻘﻄﻂ‬:‫ﺗﻌﻴـﺶ ﺣﻴﺎﺗﻬﺎ اﻟﻌﺎدﻳﺔ ﻫﻨﺎك‬ ّ ‫ﻨﺎول اﻹﻓﻄﺎر ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺸﺮﻓﺎت اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗُﻀﻴﺌُﻬﺎ‬ ُ َ ‫ وﺗﺪﺧﻴﻦ اﻟﻨﺎرﺟﻴﻠﺔ ﻓﻲ‬،‫أﺷﻌﺔ اﻟﺸﻤﺲ‬ ِ ‫ﺑﺘ‬ َ ّ ُ‫ وﺳـﺘَﺮى اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﻳ‬.‫ﺗﻨﺎول اﻟﻌﺸﺎء‬ ُ ُ ‫اﻟﻤﺴـﺎء ﺑﻌﺪ‬ ‫اﻷﺳﻄﺢ اﻟﻤﻨﺒﺴﻄﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻤﺎم ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫ﺮﺑﻮن‬ ُ ّ َ َ ،‫ـﺒﺎك ﻓﻀﻔﺎﺿﺔ ﻛﺒﻴﺮة ﻟﻠﺘﻠﻮﻳـﺢ ﻟﻬﺎ ﺑﻠﻄﻒ‬ ٍ ‫وﻫﻢ ﻳﺴـﺘﺪﻋﻮن ﻃﻴﻮرﻫﻢ ﺑﺎﺳـﺘﺨﺪام ِﺷ‬ .‫وﺟﻤ ِﻌﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺴﻤﺎء‬

َ ُ َ ُ ً ّ ‫اﻟﻤﻨﺼﺎت واﻟﺠﺪران ﺣﻴﺚ زرع اﻟﻤﻘﻴﻤﻮن‬ ‫واﺣﺎت ﺻﻐﻴﺮة ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﻀﺮ ﺑﻴﻦ‬ ‫وﺳﺘَﺮى‬ ٍ ً َ ً ّ ً ‫ﻣﺰﺧﺮﻓﺔ‬ ‫ ﻛﻤﺎ أﻧﻚ ﺳﺘَﺮى أﺑﻮاﺑًﺎ‬.‫زﻫﻮرا ﻣﺸﺮﻗﺔ ﻓﻲ أوﻋﻴﺔ زﻳﺖ اﻟﺰﻳﺘﻮن‬ ‫ﻫﻨﺎك ﺑﺒﺮاﻋﺔ‬

ّ ً َ ‫ وﺳﺘَﺮى أﻳﻀﺎ ﺑﻌﺾ‬،‫ﺳﺎﺣﺎت ﻣﻨﻌﺰﻟﺔ‬ ‫ﻧﺤﻮ ﻏﺮﻳﺐ ﺗﺆدي إﻟﻰ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺤﺎوﻻت ﻏﻴﺮ‬ ٍ ٍ ‫ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ُ ّ ً َ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺸـﻌﺒﻲ‘‘ ﺣﻴـﺚ دراﺑﺰﻳﻦ اﻟـﺪرج ﻳﺼﻴﺮ ﻣﺤﺎﻛﺎة‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺄﻟﻮﻓـﺔ ﻹﺿﺎﻓـﺔ زﺧﺮﻓ ِﺔ ’’اﻟﻔﻦ‬

‫ ﺍﻷﺯ ّﻗﺔ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬

‫ﻛﺮﻳﺲ ﺟﻮﻧﺴﻮن‬

And yes, there’s garbage strewn around too, but why let it spoil your view of the city? This is not sanitised Europe. Amman, as one guide book puts it, “is a thoroughly 20thcentury invention, which was no more than an unregarded muddy farming village when Emir Abdullah chose it to be his new capital in 1921.” It needs more time to address this problem but I’m sure it will get there eventually. At the end of the first flight of steps, you hit a busy narrow street, making its own way downtown. You follow it for a short while as it curves around under the towering lattice-work legs of the Wild Jordan Centre, until you reach the old cinema building, now an alternative arts theatre. A wide flight of steps leads steeply down the side of the cinema, which in times of heavy rainfall becomes a cascade of storm water.

Feline Paradise Right: Traditional Flowers of Amman's Hills

َ َ ّ ُ ‫ﻟﺠﺬع ﺷـﺠﺮة ﻛﺜﻴﺮ‬ ُ ‫ وﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ‬.‫اﻟﻌﻘﺪ وأﻟﻴﺎف اﻟﺨﺸـﺐ‬ ‫اﻟﺨﻠﻔﻴﺔ‬ ‫ ﺗ ِﺠ ُﺪ‬،‫ﺗﺘﺎﺑﻊ ﻧﺰوﻟﻚ‬ ٍ ِ ّ َ ً ‫اﻟﺤﺎﺿﺮة‬ ّ ‫دوﻣﺎ ﻟﻠﻤﻨﻈﺮ اﻟﺮاﺋﻊ ﻋﺒﺮ ﺗﻼل‬ ‫ واﻟﺬي ﺗﺮاه ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل أﺣ ِﺪ اﻷزﻗﺔ‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ّ ‫أو ﻋﺒﺮ ﻣﺪﺧﻞ ﻣﻔﻘﻮد أو‬ .‫ﺷﻖ ﺑﻴﻦ اﻷﺑﻨﻴﺔ‬ ٍ ٍ ٌ ٌ ً َ ْ ‫ﻟﻜﻦ ﻟﻤﺎذا‬ ،‫أﺟﻞ! ﻫﻨﺎك ﻗﻤﺎﻣﺔ ﻣﺘَﻨﺎﺛﺮة ﻫﻨﺎ وﻫﻨﺎك أﻳﻀﺎ‬ ‫ﺗﺴـﻤ ُﺢ ﻟﻬﺎ ﺑﺘَﻌﻄﻴﻞ ﻣﻨﻈﺮ‬ ّ ّ ّ ْ َ َ ‫ذﻛﺮ‬ ّ ّ ‫إن‬ َ ‫ ﻛﻤﺎ‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ،‫اﻟﺴﻴﺎﺣﻴﻴﻦ‬ ‫أﺣ ُﺪ اﻷدﻻء‬ .‫ﻟﻴﺴﺖ أوروﭘﺎ اﻟﻤﻌﻘﻤﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ؟ ﻫﺬه‬

ٌ ٌ ً ‫ واﻟﺘﻲ ﻟﻢ ﺗﻜﻦ‬،‫ﻛﺎﻣﻞ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻌﺸـﺮﻳﻦ‬ ّ َ ‫ﻳﻮﻣﺎ‬ ‫زراﻋﻴﺔ‬ ‫أﻛﺜﺮ ﻣﻦ ﻗﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫’’اﺧﺘﺮاع‬ َ َ ‫اﺧﺘﺎرﻫﺎ اﻷﻣﻴﺮ ﻋﺒﺪ اﷲ ﻟﺘَﻜـﻮن ﻋﺎﺻﻤﺘَﻪ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة‬ ‫ﻣﻮﺣﻠـﺔ ﻻ اﻋﺘﺒﺎر ﻟﻬـﺎ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ‬ ِ ّ ُ ُ ‫اﻷﻣﺮ إﻟﻰ‬ ‫ﻳﺤﺘـﺎج‬ .‘‘‫م‬١٩٢١ ‫ﻋـﺎم‬ ‫ ﻟﻜﻨﻲ‬،‫ﻣﺰﻳﺪ ﻣـﻦ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﻟﻤﻌﺎﻟﺠﺔ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺴـﺄﻟﺔ‬ ٍ َ ُ ّ ٌ ّ .‫ﻣﺘﺄﻛﺪ ﻣﻦ أﻧﻬﺎ ﺳﺘﻌﺎﻟﺞ ﻓﻲ ﻧﻬﺎﻳﺔ اﻟﻤﻄﺎف‬ ُ ّ ‫ﺗﺼﻞ إﻟﻰ ﺷـﺎرع‬ ّ ،‫ﻓـﻲ ﻧﻬﺎﻳﺔ اﻟﻤﺠﻤﻮﻋـﺔ اﻷو ﻣﻦ اﻟﺪرﺟﺎت‬ ‫ﻳﺸـﻖ‬ ‫ﺿﻴﻖ ﻣﺰدﺣﻢ‬ َ ّ .‫ﻃﺮﻳﻘـﻪ إﻟﻰ وﺳـﻂ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫ﺗﺘﺒﻊ ﻫـﺬا اﻟﻄﺮﻳﻖ ﻟﻔﺘﺮ ٍة ﻗﺼﻴـﺮة ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻳﻨﻌﻄﻒ ﺗﺤﺖ‬ َ َ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ ﺑﻤﺮﻛـﺰ‬ ‫ﺑﺮ ّﻳﺔ اﻷردن ﺣﺘـﻰ ﺗ ِﺼﻞ إﻟﻰ ﻣﺒﻨﻰ‬ ‫اﻟﺸـﺒﻜﻴ ِﺔ اﻟﻤﺮﺗﻔﻌﺔ‬ ‫اﻷﻋﻤـﺪة‬

‫ﻓﺮﺩﻭﺱ ﺍﻟﻘﻄﻂ‬ ‫ ﻭﺭﻭﺩ ﺗﻼﻝ ﻋ ّﻤﺎﻥ ﺍﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪﻳّﺔ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬

‫‪67‬‬

‫ٌ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﻴﻨﻤﺎ اﻟﻘﺪﻳـﻢ‪ ،‬اﻟـﺬي ﻫﻮ ﺣﺎﻟﻴًﺎ ﻣﺴـﺮح ﺑﺪﻳـﻞ ﻟﻠﻔﻨـﻮن‪ .‬وﻫﻨـﺎك ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ﺗﺼﻴﺮ‬ ‫ﺑﺎﻧﺤﺪار ﺣـﺎد إﻟﻰ ﺟﺎﻧﺐ ﻣﺒﻨﻰ اﻟﺴـﻴﻨﻤﺎ‪ ،‬واﻟﺘﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﺪرﺟـﺎت اﻟﻌﺮﻳﻀـﺔ ﺗﺆدي‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻫﻄﻮل اﻷﻣﻄﺎر اﻟﻐﺰﻳﺮة‪.‬‬ ‫أﺷﺒَﻪ ﺑﺸﻼ ٍل ﻣﻦ ﻣﻴﺎه اﻷﻣﻄﺎر ﻓﻲ أﻳّﺎم‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺆدي إﻟﻰ وﺳﻂ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‪ .‬ﻣﻦ ﻫﻨﺎ ﺳﺄﺳﺘَ ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺮﺋﻴﺴﻲ‬ ‫وﺑﺴـﺮﻋﺔ‪ ،‬ﺳﺘَ ِﺼﻞ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻄﺮﻳﻖ‬ ‫ﺪﻳﺮ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ﻷﺳﻴﺮ ﺑﻚ إﻟﻰ ﻣﻄﻌﻢ ﻫﺎﺷﻢ اﻟﻤﺸﻬﻮر ﻟﺘَ ُ‬ ‫ﻨﺎو ِل اﻟﻔﻼﻓﻞ اﻟﺴﺎﺧﻨﺔ‪ ،‬واﺣﺘﺴﺎء‬ ‫إﻟﻰ اﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻘﺮﺻﻨﺔ‪ ،‬وﻣﺤﺎل ﺑَﻴﻊ اﻟﺜﻴﺎب‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺪﻣﺠﺔ واﻷﻓﻼم‬ ‫ﻣﺮورا ﺑﻤﺤﺎل اﻷﻗﺮاص‬ ‫اﻟﺸﺎي اﻟﺤﻠﻮ‬ ‫ُ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ﺑﻤﻼﺑﺴـﻬﺎ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻌﺪ ﺧﻠﻴﻄﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻷﻧﻤـﺎط اﻟﻐﺮﺑﻴﺔ واﻟﺸـﺮﻗﻴﺔ‪ ،‬و’’ﻣﺎﻧﻴﻜﺎﻧﺎت‘‘ ﻋﺮض‬ ‫ّ َ ْ‬ ‫ﻌﺮﺿ َﻦ ﻣﻼﺑﺲ ’’أدﻳﺪاس‘‘ ﻣﻘﻠّﺪة‪ .‬وإذا َ‬ ‫ﺳﻤﺢ ﻟﻨﺎ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‪،‬‬ ‫اﻷزﻳﺎء ﺑﻤﻈﻬﺮﻫﺎ اﻟﻌﺴﻜﺮي ﻳ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺮﺋﻴﺴﻲ ﺣﻴﺚ ﺑﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﻤﻚ‬ ‫ﻧﺴﺘﻄﻴﻊ اﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎف اﻷزﻗﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺘﻔﺮع ﻣﻦ اﻟﺸﺎرع‬ ‫ﻓﺈﻧﻨﺎ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻃﺒﻘﺎت ﻣﻦ اﻟﺜﻠﺞ‪ ،‬ﻳﻘﻔﻮن‬ ‫اﻟﺒﺤﺮﻳﺔ اﻟﻬﺎﻣﺪة اﻟﻤﻮﺿﻮﻋﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﻳﻌﺮﺿﻮن اﻷﺳﻤﺎك‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺑﺠﺎﻧـﺐ دﻛﺎﻛﻴﻦ اﻟﻔﺎﻛﻬﺔ واﻟﺨﻴﺎﻃﻴﻦ وﻣﺘﺎﺟﺮ أﺧﺮى ﻟﻠﺜﻴﺎب‪ ،‬وﺣﻴـﺚ ﺗﺆدي اﻷﺑﻮاب‬

‫ّ‬ ‫ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ﻣـﻦ اﻟﻤﻘﺎﻫﻲ واﻟﻤﻄﺎﻋﻢ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻄﺎﺑـﻖ اﻷﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺤﺎول‬ ‫ﺟﻴﻞ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫اﻟﺠﺎﻧﺒﻴـﺔ إﻟـﻰ ٍ‬ ‫ًّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ﻋﺮﺑﻴﺔ أﺻﻴﻠﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫ﺟﺎﻫﺪة أن ﺗﻜﻮن‬

‫ُ‬ ‫ُ َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻘﻴﻘﻴﺔ‘‘ ﻋﻨﺪ ﺳـﻮق اﻟﺨﻀـﺮ واﻟﺘﻮاﺑﻞ‪ ،‬ﻣﻘﺎﺑﻞ‬ ‫’’ﻟﻌﻤﺎن‬ ‫ﺳـﺄﻧﻬﻲ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺠﻮﻟـﺔ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺮوﻣﺎﻧـﻲ )ﺑﻤﻈﻬـﺮه اﻟﻤﻮﺣـﺶ(‪ .‬إﻧﻬﺎ ﺳـﻮق ﺻﻐﻴﺮة ﺑﺎﻟﻤﻘﺎرﻧﺔ ﺑﺄﺳـﻮاق‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻤـﺎم‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴـﺔ‬ ‫ﺣﻴﻮﻳـﺔ اﻟﺸـﻮارع‬ ‫أﺟﻮاءﻫـﺎ ﻣﻔﻌﻤـﺔ ﺑﻜـﻞ‬ ‫ﻟﻜـﻦ‬ ‫دﻣﺸـﻖ وﺣﻠـﺐ‪،‬‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ﺳـﺘﻤﻊ إﻟﻰ أﺻﺤﺎب اﻷﻛﺸـﺎك وﻫـﻢ ﻳﺪﻟﻠﻮن‬ ‫وﺿﻮﺿﺎﺋﻬـﺎ وأﻟﻮاﻧﻬـﺎ ورواﺋﺤﻬـﺎ‪ .‬أ‬ ‫ُ َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺧﻀﺮﻫﻢ اﻟﻄﺎزﺟﺔ‪ ،‬أو‬ ‫ﻋﻠـﻰ ﺑﻀﺎﺋﻌﻬﻢ ﻟﻴَﺠﺬﺑﻮا اﻟﺰﺑﺎﺋﻦ ﺑﻌﺮوﺿﻬﻢ‬

‫َ‬ ‫ﺑﻌﺾ اﻟﻠﻮز اﻟﻄﺎزج إذا ﻛﺎن ﻫﺬا ﻣﻮﺳﻤﻪ‪ ،‬أو ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻠﺒﻲ‬ ‫ﻛﻴﺴﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﺴﺘﻖ‬ ‫أﺷـﺘﺮي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ ََ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ﻳﺴـﻌﻚ أن ﺗﻤ ِﻌ َﻦ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻨﻈﺮ ﻓﻲ أﻛﺸـﺎك اﻟﺘﻮاﺑـﻞ اﻟﺼﻐﻴﺮة‪ ،‬وأن ﺗﺘﺒﺎدل‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻤﻠـﺢ‪.‬‬ ‫ُ َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻚ أن ﺗُﺼﻐﻲ ﻟﺘﺴﺘَ َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺎم‬ ‫اﻟﺠﻮ‬ ‫ﻮﻋﺐ ﻓﻘﻂ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﺎرة ﻣﻊ أﺻﺤﺎﺑﻬﺎ‪ .‬أو ﻳﺴـﻌ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﺤﻴﺎت‬

‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﺣﻮﻟﻚ‪ .‬أﺟﻞ! ﻫﺬا ﻟﻴﺲ ﺷـﻴﺌًﺎ‬ ‫ﺧﺎﺻﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴـﺒﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺴﻴﺎﺣﺔ اﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪﻳّﺔ‪ ،‬ﻟﻜﻨﻪ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ﺗﺸـﻌﺮ ﺑﻤﺎ ﺗﻌﻨﻴﻪ اﻟﺤﻴﺎة ﻓـﻲ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ أﺻﻴﻠ ٍﺔ وودود ٍة‬ ‫أﻣـﺮ ﺧﺎص ﺟﺪا إذا أردت أن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ﻋـﺪةﻃﺒﻘـﺎتﻣﺜـﻞ ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‪.‬‬ ‫ﻮاﺿﻌـ ٍﺔوﻣﺆﻟﻔـ ٍﺔﻣـﻦ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫وﻣﺘ ِ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫َ ْ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ﻀﺠﺮة‘‘‪’’ ،‬أﻣﻜﻨـﺔ ﻗﻠﻴﻠﺔ‬ ‫ﺗﺠﺬب اﻻﻫﺘﻤﺎم‘‘‪ ،‬ﻫﻜﺬا ﻗﺎﻟﺖ‬ ‫’’ﻻ ﺗﻠﻔـﺖ اﻻﻧﺘﺒﺎه‘‘‪’’ ،‬ﻣ ِ‬ ‫ُ ُ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺴﻴﺎﺣﻴﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫ﺐ اﻟﺪﻻﻟﺔ‬ ‫ﻛﺘ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ﻟﻴﺲ إذا ُ‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ أﻧﺎ دﻟﻴﻼ ﺳﻴﺎﺣﻴًﺎ‪.‬‬

‫‪And quickly you reach the main road into downtown. From‬‬ ‫‪here I’ll turn right and take you to the famous Hashem’s café‬‬ ‫‪for hot falafel and sweet tea, passing the pirate CD and video‬‬ ‫‪shops and the clothing stores, with their mixture of western‬‬ ‫‪and eastern styles and military-looking mannequins, posing in‬‬ ‫‪fake Adidas gear. And, if time allows, we can explore the al‬‬‫‪leyways leading off the main street, where fishmongers, with‬‬ ‫‪displays of inert sea fish on layers of ice, stand alongside fruit‬‬ ‫‪shops, tailors and more clothes stores, and where side doors‬‬ ‫‪lead to a new generation of upper-floor cafés and restaurants,‬‬ ‫‪trying hard to be authentically Arabic.‬‬ ‫‪I would end this tour of ‘real Amman’ at the vegetable and spice‬‬ ‫‪market, opposite the (quite gloomy-looking) Roman bath‬‬‫‪house. It’s a small market compared to the souks of Damas‬‬‫‪cus and Aleppo but it has all the vibrancy, noise, colour and‬‬ ‫‪smells of Arabic street life. Listen to the stall holders call out to‬‬ ‫‪attract their customers with special offers on their fresh vege‬‬‫‪tables; buy some fresh almonds if the season is right, or a bag of‬‬ ‫‪salted pistachio nuts. Peruse the small spice stalls and engage‬‬ ‫‪in a warm exchange of greetings with the proprietors. Or just‬‬ ‫‪listen and absorb the atmosphere. Yes, it’s nothing special in‬‬ ‫‪conventional tourism terms, but it’s very special if you want to‬‬ ‫‪feel what it’s like to live in a genuine, friendly, humble, many‬‬‫‪layered city like Amman.‬‬ ‫‪“Unremarkable”, “uninteresting”, “few attractions” the guide‬‬ ‫;‪books have said‬‬ ‫‪Not if I were a tour guide.‬‬

‫‪68‬‬

‫‪My Jordanian guide, Sinan, showed me the‬‬ ‫‪staircase to his childhood home.‬‬

‫َ‬ ‫أﺧﺬﻧـﻲ ِﺳـﻨﺎن‪ ،‬دﻟﻴﻠﻲ اﻷردﻧـﻲ‪ ،‬ﻟﺰﻳﺎرة اﻟـﺪرج ﺑﻤﺤﺎذاة‬

‫اﻟﺒﻴﺖ اﻟﺬي ﺗﺮﻋﺮع ﻓﻴﻪ‪.‬‬

‫‪Abu Darwish Mosque stands proudly,‬‬ ‫‪framed by pine trees and tall buildings,‬‬ ‫‪viewed from Jabal Amman.‬‬

‫ﻋﻨـﺪ اﻟﻨﻈﺮ إﻟﻰ ﻣﺴـﺠﺪ ‘‘أﺑﻮ دروﻳﺶ’’ ﻣـﻦ ﺟﺒﻞ ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‪،‬‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ﻣﺤﺎﻃﺎ ﺑﺄﺷـﺠﺎر اﻟﺼﻨﻮﺑـﺮ واﻟﻤﺒﺎﻧﻲ‪.‬‬ ‫ﺑﻔﺨـﺮ‬ ‫ﺳـﺘﺮاه ﻳﻘﻒ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻴـﺔ‪.‬‬

‫‪69‬‬

‫ﺭﺟﺎﻝ ﺍﻟﺜﻠﺞ ﺍﻟﻤﺘﻨﻘّﻠﻮﻥ‬

‫‪Mobile Snowmen‬‬

City Sheep Right: Sweis' Family Residence in Jabal Amman

‫ﺧﺮﺍﻑ ﻓﻲ ﺍﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫ ﺑﻴﺖ ﻋﺎﺋﻠﺔ ﺻﻮﻳﺺ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺒﻞ ﻋ ّﻤﺎﻥ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬

71 71

Samar Dudin |

ّ ‫ﺑﻨﺖ اﻟ‬

Daughter of the Neighborhood

I grew up in a neighborhood in Jabal Weibdeh in a community of families from all over the Arab world: Christians, Muslims, Bahees, Jordanians, Palestinians, Syrians, Charkas, Lebanese and Armenians. As a child I joined in daily conversations with neighbors holding different belief systems and lifestyles. I felt that I was brought up not only by my extended family from Mount Hebron in Palestine, but also by iconic neighbours who remain to this day alive in my heart and mind. I developed my civic identity conversing with many people: Abu Nasser Al Sunna, the leftist secularist, discussed with me social equality, defying the class system and expanding freedom of expression to build an equitable society; Abu Zakaria Esteteyeh, the Islamist who shared endless stories from Al Sera Al Nabaweya and the early challenges of prophet Mohammad; Abu Tallal Qussous, the guardian of our street who had the best jameed for mansaf from Kerak; Amu Munir Fataleh, the scientist-pharmacist who offered first aid care to neighborhood kids for their regular accidents; Teta Um Rizeq Batshoun, who healed our minor ailments with olive oil. Teta would talk endlessly about the plight of the Palestinians of 1948 and of Jaffa, a lost land of orange groves … I loved her so much.

ُ ّ ‫ﻧﺸـﺄت ﻓﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺎﺋﻼت ﻣـﻦ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ أﻧﺤﺎء‬ ‫ﺣﻲ ﻓـﻲ ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒﺪة ﺿﻤـﻦ ﻣﺠﺘﻤﻊ ﻣﻦ‬ ِ ّ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫وﺳﻮرﻳﻴﻦ‬ ‫وﻓﻠﺴﻄﻴﻨﻴﻴﻦ‬ ‫وﻣﺴﻴﺤﻴﻴﻦ وﺑﻬﺎﺋﻴﻴﻦ وأردﻧﻴﻴﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﻮﻃﻦ اﻟﻌﺮ ّ ؛ ﻣﻦ ﻣﺴﻠﻤﻴﻦ‬ ً ُ ّ ُ ،‫ﻃﻔﻠﺔ‬ ُ ‫ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ‬.‫وﺷﺮﻛﺲ وﻟﺒﻨﺎﻧﻴّﻴﻦ وأرﻣﻦ‬ َ ‫اﻟﻴﻮﻣﻴﺔ‬ ‫أﺷﺎرك ﻓﻲ اﻷﺣﺎدﻳﺚ‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ‬ ُ ُ ُ ‫ﺷـﻌﺮت‬ .‫وأﺳـﺎﻟﻴﺐ ﺣﻴﺎ ٍة ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻔﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﻌﺘﻘﺪات‬ ‫ﻣﻊ اﻟﺠﻴﺮان اﻟﺬي ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻟﺪﻳﻬﻢ ﻏ ُﻈ ُﻢ‬ ٍ ّ ّ ً ّ ‫ﺑﺄن ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ ﺑﻞ أﻳﻀﺎ‬،‫رﺑﺎﻧﻲ ﻟﻴﺲ ﻓﻘﻂ ﻋﺎﺋﻠﺘﻲ اﻟﻤﻤﺘﺪة ﻣﻦ ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﺨﻠﻴﻞ ﻓﻲ ﻓﻠﺴﻄﻴﻦ‬ ّ ً ‫ﺟﻴﺮاﻧﻲ اﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪﻳّﻮن اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﻣﺎ ﻳﺰاﻟﻮن ﺣﺘﻰ ﻳﻮﻣﻨﺎ ﻫﺬا‬ .‫أﺣﻴﺎء ﻓﻲ ﻗﻠﺒﻲ وﻋﻘﻠﻲ‬ ّ ُ ُ ّ ّ ‫ أﺑﻮ‬:‫اﻟﺘﺤﺪث إﻟﻰ أﺷـﺨﺎص ﻋﺪﻳﺪﻳـﻦ‬ ّ ‫ﻧﺼﺎر‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺪﻧﻴـﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺧـﻼل‬ ‫رت ﻫ ِﻮ ّﻳﺘـﻲ‬ ‫ﻃـﻮ‬ ٍ ّ ّ‫اﻟﻴﺴﺎري اﻟﺬي ﻛﺎن ﻳﻨﺎﻗﺸﻨﻲ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻮﺿﻮع اﻟﻤﺴﺎواة اﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﻴﺔ‬ َ ،‫اﻟﺼﻨﺎع‬ ّ ّ‫اﻟﻌﻠﻤﺎﻧﻲ‬

َ ّ ً ‫وﻣﻮﺳ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻧﻄـﺎق‬ ّ ‫ﻣﺠﺘﻤـﻊ ﻋﺎدل؛ أﺑﻮ‬ ‫ﺣﺮ ّﻳـﺔ اﻟﺘﻌﺒﻴﺮ ﻟﺒﻨﺎء‬ ‫ـﻌﺎ‬ ،‫اﻟﻄﺒﻘﻲ‬ ‫ﻣﺘﺤﺪﻳًـﺎ اﻟﻨﻈـﺎم‬ ٍ ُ ً ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻹﺳـﻼﻣﻲ اﻟﺬي ﻛﺎن ﻳﺴﺮد‬ ،‫اﺳـﺘﻴﺘﻴﺔ‬ ‫زﻛﺮﻳﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﻨﺒﻮﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻗﺼﺼﺎ ﻻ ﻧﻬﺎﻳﺔ ﻟﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺴﻴﺮة‬ ّ َ ‫واﻟﺘﺤﺪﻳـﺎت اﻷو اﻟﺘـﻲ‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻮﺻﻲ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺷـﺎرﻋﻨﺎ‬ ،‫اﻟﻨﺒﻲ؛ أﺑﻮ ﻃﻼل ﻗﺴـﻮس‬ ‫واﺟ َﻬﻬﺎ‬ ُ ّ ّ ‫ﻟﺼﻨْﻊ اﻟﻤﻨﺴﻒ؛‬ ُ ‫أﻓﻀﻞ ﺟﻤﻴﺪ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻜﺮك‬ ُ -‫اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻢ‬ ،‫ﻋﻤﻮ ﻣﻨﻴﺮ ﻓﺘﺎﻟﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺬي ﻛﺎن ﻟﺪﻳﻪ‬ ٍ َ ّ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺤﻲ ﺑﺴـﺒﺐ‬ ‫اﻟﺼﻴﺪﻟـﻲ اﻟـﺬي ﻛﺎن ﻳﻘﺪم رﻋﺎﻳـﺔ اﻹﺳـﻌﺎﻓﺎت اﻷوﻟﻴﺔ إﻟﻰ أﻃﻔﺎل‬ ّ ‫ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺗﺪاوي‬،‫اﻟﺤﻮادث اﻟﻌﺎدﻳﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺗﻘﻊ ﻣﻌﻬﻢ؛ اﻟﺘﻴﺘﺎ أم رزق ﺑﻄﺸﻮن‬ ُ ّ ّ َ ً َ ‫ﺖ اﻟﺠﺪة ﺗﺘﺤﺪث ﺣﺪﻳﺜﺎ ﻻ ﻧﻬﺎﻳﺔ ﻟﻪ ﺑﺸـﺄن‬ ِ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧ‬.‫أﻣﺮاﺿﻨﺎ اﻟﺒﺴـﻴﻄﺔ ﺑﺰﻳﺖ اﻟﺰﻳﺘﻮن‬ ّ ‫ أرض‬،‫ وﺑﺸـﺄن ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻳﺎﻓـﺎ‬،‫م‬١٩٤٨ ‫اﻟﻔﻠﺴـﻄﻴﻨﻴﻴﻦ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ ّ ‫ﺑﻴﺎرات اﻟﺒﺮﺗﻘﺎل‬ ‫ﻣﺤﻨﺔ‬

ّ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ‬ ُ ‫ ﻛﻢ‬...‫اﻟﻀﺎﺋﻌﺔ‬ !‫أﺣﺒﻬﺎ‬

My Auntie Um Khaled Nassoura spoke French, German and English and ran children’s reading circles using French and English literature. Um Ahmad Barakat was a woman of great strength who ran her own company and invited my friends Karam and Lulu and me to enjoy nablusi cheese and watermelon. From my balcony I watched with admiration as Emily Bsharat, Jordan’s ﬁrst woman lawyer, welcomed many into her home. One of my earliest theater readings was “The Masks ”by Saif El Deen Irani, who lived next door.

ّ ْ َ ّ ‫ـﺖ اﻟﺨﺎﻟـﺔ أم ﺧﺎﻟﺪ‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫ ﻛﻤﺎ‬،‫واﻹﻧﻜﻠﻴﺰﻳﺔ‬ ‫واﻷﻟﻤﺎﻧﻴـﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻔﺮﻧﺴـﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻧﺼـﻮرة ﺗﺘﻜﻠﻢ‬ ‫ﻛﺎﻧ‬ ً ُ َ‫ﻣﺔ اﻷدب‬ ّ.‫اﻟﻔﺮﻧﺴـﻲ واﻹﻧﻜﻠﻴﺰي‬ ّ ‫ﻣﺴـﺘﺨﺪ‬ ‫ﻛﺎﻧـﺖ ﺗﻘﻮد ﺣﻠﻘـﺎت ﻗﺮاء ٍة ﻟﻸﻃﻔﺎل‬ ِ ُ ّ ً ُ َ ّ ّ ‫ﻛﺎﻧـﺖ‬ ‫ وﺎﻛﻧﺖ‬،‫واﻟﺪة أﺣﻤﺪ ﺑﺮﺎﻛت اﻣـﺮأة ﺗﺘﻤﺘﻊ ﺑﻘﻮ ٍة ﻛﺒﻴﺮة ﺗﺪﻳﺮ ﺷـﺮﻛﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ‬ َ ّ ُ ّ ُ ّ ّ ‫ وﻣﻦ‬.‫اﻟﻨﺎﺑﻠﺴـﻲ واﻟﺒﻄﻴﺦ‬ ‫ﺻﺪﻳﻘﻲ ﻛـﺮم وﻟﻮﻟﻮ ﻟﻠﺘﻤﺘﻊ ﺑﺘﻨـﺎول اﻟﺠﺒﻦ‬ ‫ﺗﺪﻋـﻮﻰﻳ ﻣﻊ‬ ُ ُ ّ ّ ُ ّ ‫ وﻫﻲ‬،‫ أول اﻣﺮأ ٍة ﻣﺤﺎﻣﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻷردن‬،‫ﺷﺮﻓﺘﻲ ﻛﻨﺖ أراﻗﺐ ﺑﺈﻋﺠﺎب إﻣﻴﻠﻲ ﺑﺸﺎرات‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺴـﺮﺣﻴﺔ اﻷو ﻛﺘﺎﺑًﺎ ﺑﻌﻨﻮان‬ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ إﺣﺪى ﻗﺮاءاﺗﻲ‬.‫ﺗﺮﺣﺐ ﺑﺎﻟﻜﺜﻴﺮﻳﻦ ﻓﻲ ﺑﻴﺘﻬﺎ‬ ُ .‫ﻳﺴﻜﻦ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻨﺰل اﻟﻤﺠﺎور ﻟﻨﺎ‬ ‫’’اﻷﻗﻨﻌﺔ‘‘ ﺑﻘﻠﻢ ﺳﻴﻒ اﻟﺪﻳﻦ إﻳﺮاﻧﻲ اﻟﺬي ﻛﺎن‬

I escaped to the French cultural center to watch French movies, read revolutionary French literature and listen to music. Apart from the Khayam cinema it was the only place to watch ﬁlms in Weibdeh. I rode a bicycle to the other side of Weibdeh, to Aesha Tijani’s home. She was a pioneer in radio programs and had an amazing voice that sounded like music. The Friends of

َ ُ ّ َ ُ ّ ّ ‫ وأﻗﺮأ اﻷدب‬،‫اﻟﻔﺮﻧﺴﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻷﻓﻼم‬ ‫اﻟﻔﺮﻧﺴـﻲ ﻷﺷﺎﻫﺪ‬ ‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻲ‬ ‫أﻫﺮب إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﺮﻛﺰ‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ‬ َُ ّ ّ ّ ‫ ﻛﺎن اﻟﻤﺮﻛﺰ‬،‫اﻟﺨﻴﺎم‬ ‫ ﺑﺎﻹﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ ﺳﻴﻨﻤﺎ‬.‫اﻟﺜﻮري وأﺳﺘﻤﻊ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﻮﺳﻴﻘﻰ‬ ‫اﻟﻔﺮﻧﺴﻲ‬ َ َ ّ ُ ُ .‫اﻟﻮﺣﻴﺪ ﻟﻤﺸـﺎﻫﺪة اﻷﻓﻼم ﻓﻲ اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒﺪة‬ ّ ‫أرﻛﺐ‬ ‫اﻟﻬﻮاﺋﻴﺔ إﻟﻰ‬ ‫اﻟﺪراﺟﺔ‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻜﺎن‬ ً ‫ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺎﻧـﺖ راﺋﺪة ﻓﻲ‬،‫ إﻟﻰ ﺑﻴﺖ ﻋﺎﺋﺸـﺔ اﻟﺘﻴﺠﺎﻧﻲ‬،‫اﻟﺠﺎﻧـﺐ اﻵﺧـﺮ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒـﺪة‬ ً ُ ً ّ ‫ وﻗﺪ ﻛﺎن ﻧﺎدي أﺻﺪﻗﺎء‬.‫ ﻛﻤﺎ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺗﻤﻠﻚ ﺻﻮﺗﺎ ﻣﻮﺳﻴﻘﻴًﺎ ﻣﺬﻫﻼ‬،‫اﻹذاﻋﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺒﺮاﻣﺞ‬

Left: Jacaranda Peeping

‫ ﺍﺧﺘﻼﺱ ﻧﻈﺮ ٍﺓ ﺇﻟﻰ ﺃﺷﺠﺎﺭ ﺍﻟﺠﺎﻛﺮﻧﺪﺍ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬

‫ﺳﻤﺮ دودﻳﻦ‬

Children Club, founded by child-theater pioneer Margo Malatjalian, was a great space for creativity - now Canvas restaurant. Amu Husni Fareez’s, Jordan’s renowned novelist, spoke to me about the nature of a good society and enlightenment - it felt like being with Plato or Aristotle. One of my favorite places was Usama Masheeni Theater where I saw Jameel and Juliette Awad in their powerful play “Al Shahadeen” three times.

ً ْ ّ ً ُ ‫ ﻣﺴﺎﺣﺔ ﻛﺒﻴﺮة‬،‫ ﻣﺎرﻏﻮ ﻣﺎﻻﺗﺠﺎﻟﻴﺎن‬،‫راﺋﺪة ﻣﺴﺮح اﻷﻃﻔﺎل‬ ‫أﺳ َﺴـﺘﻪ‬ ‫اﻷﻃﻔﺎل اﻟﺬي‬ ً ّ ‫ وإذ ﻛﺎن‬.‘‘ ّ‫ اﻟﺮواﺋﻲ‬،‫اﻟﻌﻢ ﺣﺴـﻨﻲ ﻓﺮﻳـﺰ‬ ’’ ‫ وﻫـﻮ ﺣﺎﻟﻴـﺎ ﻣﻄﻌـﻢ‬-‫ﻟﻺﺑـﺪاع‬ ُ ّ ّ -‫ ﻳﺘﺤﺪث ﻣﻌﻲ ﺑﺸـﺄن ﻃﺒﻴﻌﺔ اﻟﻤﺠﺘﻤﻊ اﻟﺼﺎﻟﺢ وﺑﺸﺄن اﻟﺘﻨﻮﻳﺮ‬،‫اﻷردﻧﻲ اﻟﻤﺸـﻬﻮر‬ ّ َ ‫ ﻛﺎن‬.‫ﻛﻨﺖ أﺷـﻌﺮ ﺑﺄﻧّﻲ ﺑﺮﻓﻘﺔ أﻓﻼﻃﻮن وأرﺳﻄﻮ‬ ُ ‫أﺣﺪ اﻷﻣﺎﻛﻦ اﻟﻤﻔﻀﻠﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴﺒﺔ‬ ِ َ ّ َ ّ ُ ّ ‫ﺛﻼث‬ ّ ‫ﻣـﺮات اﻟﻔﻨﺎﻧﻴـﻦ ﺟﻮﻟﻴﻴﺖ‬ ‫ﺷـﺎﻫﺪت‬ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ‬،‫إﻟﻲ ﻣﺴـﺮح أﺳـﺎﻣﺔ اﻟﻤﺸـﻴﻨﻲ‬ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫وﺟﻤﻴﻞ‬ .‘‘‫اﻟﻘﻮﻳﺔ ’’اﻟﺸﺤﺎدون‬ ‫ﻣﺴﺮﺣﻴﺘﻬﻤﺎ‬ ‫ﻋﻮاد ﻓﻲ‬

Jabal Weibdeh neighborhood felt like a big family and a foundation for a caring world with freely exchanged ideas and values. Together with my Palestinian background, I felt it made me the tempered radical that I am today. I was free to rebel, to speak openly and to express my emotions. Adults spoke to us believing we will reach our fullest potential, that we must be ﬁghters for the causes we believe in and that comfort should never make us compromise our principles. My neighborhood was a community of people who really listened.

َ ّ ُ ُ ُ ّ ‫ﺑﺄن‬ ‫وأﺳـﺎس ﻟﻌﺎﻟ ٍﻢ‬ ،‫ﺣﻲ ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒﺪة ﻫﻮ أﺷـﺒَﻪ ﻣﺎ ﻳﻜﻮن ﺑﻌﺎﺋﻠ ٍﺔ ﻛﺒﻴﺮة‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ أﺷـﻌﺮ‬ ٍ ّ ُ ُ ّ ّ ‫ﺗﺒـﺎد َل اﻵراء واﻟﻘﻴَ َﻢ‬ ‫ﺧﻠﻔﻴﺘﻲ‬ ‫ﺷـﻌﺮت ﺑـﺄن ﻫﺬا اﻷﻣﺮ ﺑﺎﻹﺿﺎﻓـﺔ إﻟﻰ‬ .‫ﺑﺤﺮ ّﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻳﺮﻋـﻰ‬ ِ ًّ ُ َ َ ّ َ ّ ‫ ﻛﻨﺖ ﺣﺮة‬.‫ ﻫﻤﺎ ﻣﺎ ﺟﻌﻼﻧﻲ اﻟﺮادﻳﻜﺎﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﻤﻌﺘﺪﻟﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ أﻧﺎ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ اﻟﻴﻮم‬،‫اﻟﻔﻠﺴﻄﻴﻨﻴﺔ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﺤﺮ ّﻳﺔ‬ ّ ‫أﺗﻤـﺮ َد وأﺗﻜﻠّ َﻢ‬ ّ ‫ﻓـﻲ أن‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن اﻟﺒﺎﻟﻐـﻮن ﻳﺘﺤﺪﺛﻮن إﻟﻴﻨﺎ‬.‫وأﻋﺒ َﺮ ﻋﻦ ﻣﺸـﺎﻋﺮي‬ َْ ُ ّ ّ ّ َ‫وﺑﺄن ﻋﻠﻴﻨﺎ أن ﻧﺤﺎرب‬ ،‫ﻣﺆﻣﻨﻴﻦ ﺑﺄﻧﻨﺎ ﺳـﻨﺘﻮﺻﻞ إﻟﻰ ﺑﺬ ِل أﻗﺼﻰ ﻣﺎ ﻟﺪﻳﻨﺎ ﻣﻦ ﻗـﺪرات‬ ّ َ ّ ً .‫ وﺑﺄن اﻟﺮاﺣﺔ ﻳﺠﺐ أﻻ ﺗﺠﻌﻠﻨﺎ ﻧﺘﻨﺎزل ﻋﻦ ﻣﺒﺎدﺋﻨﺎ‬،‫ﻋﻦ اﻟﻘﻀﺎﻳﺎ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻧﺆﻣﻦ ﺑﻬﺎ‬ ِ ‫دﻓﺎﻋﺎ‬ ً َ ّ .‫ﻣﺠﺘﻤ ًﻌﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﺎس اﻟﺬي ﻛﺎﻧﻮا ﻳُﺼﻐﻮن ﺣﻘﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻲ اﻟﺬي أﺳﻜﻨُﻪ‬ ‫وﺎﻛن‬

Many bore wounds; some came from Palestine having experienced great losses; some from the Adega land; a few from Armenia and many from Salt, Kerak, Ajloun and Madaba, seeking a home for their businesses. Working in schools and communities with art, education and development, I have seen Amman become torn between East and West, with gaps growing between classes. We now have gated communities and ghettoes where the marginalized have limited access to good education and work opportunities, and an undernourished cultural environment. I have striven to re-create a sense of community by co-authoring plays and creating theater with and for youth, but that has not been enough. What kind of organization can recreate the community of change we so need for our growth as people and as citizens? What can recreate the free exchange of feelings and opinions of my childhood? I feel today that every neighborhood in Amman is my own, despite the distances formed by class, urban planning and immigration. Walking through Ashrafeya I am invited by a friend to the Armenian Club where music, dance and art are the heart of all activities. In Wadi El Sayr I visit the Charkas Association. In Jabal Natheef homes cluster closely to the Ruwwad Al Tanmeya Community Empowerment Center, where I spend most of my time now. The place is buzzing with youth volunteers engaged in building their own neighborhood narrative once again. In Joffeh every Ammani like

Wysteria

ُ ‫ﻛﺎن ﻛﺜﻴـﺮون ﻣﻨﻬـﻢ ﻳﺤﻤﻠﻮن اﻟﺠﺮوح؛ ﺟﺎء اﻟﺒﻌﺾ ﻣﻦ ﻓﻠﺴـﻄﻴﻦ ﺑﻌﺪﻣﺎ ﻋﺎﻧﻰ‬

‫ وﻗﻠﻴﻠﻮن ﺟﺎءوا ﻣﻦ أرﻣﻴﻨﻴﺎ‬،‫ واﻟﺒﻌﺾ ﺟﺎء ﻣﻦ أرض اﻟﺸـﺮﻛﺲ‬،‫ﺧﺴـﺎﺋﺮ ﻓﺎدﺣﺔ‬ َ ّ ‫وﻛﺜﻴـﺮون ﻣـﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﻠﻂ واﻟﻜـﺮك وﻋﺠﻠـﻮن وﻣﺎدﺑﺎ ﺳـﺎﻋﻴﻦ إﻟـﻰ إﻳﺠـﺎد ﻣﺮﻛ ٍﺰ‬ ّ .‫اﻟﺘﺠﺎرﻳـﺔ‬ ‫ﻷﻋﻤﺎﻟﻬـﻢ‬

ّ ً ،‫اﻟﻔـﻦ واﻟﺘﻌﻠﻴﻢ واﻟﺘﻨﻤﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻧﻈـﺮا إﻟﻰ ﻋﻤﻠﻲ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤـﺪارس واﻟﻤﺠﺘﻤﻌﺎت ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﺎل‬ ّ ْ َ ّ ّ ‫رأﻳﺖ‬ ُ ّ ‫ت‬ ‫ﻣﻤﺰﻗﺔ ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﺸـﺮق واﻟﻐﺮب ﻣﻊ اﺗﺴـﺎع اﻟﻔﺠﻮة ﺑﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن وﻗﺪ ﺻﺎر‬ ‫ﻓﺈﻧﻲ‬ ٌ ٌ َ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻻ‬،‫ﻣﻌﺰوﻟﺔ وﻣﻐﻠﻘﺔ‬ ّ ‫ﻟﻠﻤ‬ ُ ‫ﻳﻮﺟﺪ‬ ‫ﻬﻤﺸـﻴﻦ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫ ﻟﺪﻳﻨﺎ اﻵن ﻣﺠﺘﻤﻌﺎت‬.‫اﻟﻄﺒﻘﺎت‬ ّ ّ َ ‫وﺻﺎر ِت‬ ،‫اﻟﺠﻴﺪ وﻓﺮص اﻟﻌﻤﻞ‬ ‫ﺎت ﻣﺤﺪود ٍة ﻟﻠﺤﺼﻮل ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺘﻌﻠﻴـﻢ‬ ٍ ‫ﺳـﻮى إﻣﻜﺎﻧﻴ‬ ْ َ ُ َ ‫ ﻟﻘﺪ‬.‫ﻏﻴﺮ ﺳـﻠﻴﻤﺔ‬ ّ ُ ‫ﺳﻌ‬ َ ‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻴﺖ إﻟﻰ إﻋﺎدة ﺧﻠ ِﻖ‬ ‫اﻟﺒﻴﺌﺔ‬ ‫ﺷﻌﻮر ﺑﻮﺟﻮد ﻣﺠﺘﻤﻊ ﻋﺒﺮ‬ ٍ ْ َ ّ ّ ‫ ﻏﻴﺮ أن‬،‫ وﺧﻠﻖ ﻣﺴـﺮح ﻣﻊ اﻟﺸﺒﺎب وﻷﺟﻠﻬﻢ‬،‫اﻟﻤﺴﺮﺣﻴﺎت‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺸـﺎرﻛﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺗﺄﻟﻴﻒ‬ ً ُ َ ّ ُ َ ُ َ ‫ ﻣﺎ ﻧﻮع اﻟﻤﻨﻈﻤﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺴﺘﻄﻴﻊ أن ﺗﺨﻠﻖ ﺛﺎﻧﻴﺔ ﻣﺠﺘﻤﻊ اﻟﺘﻐﻴﻴﺮ‬.‫ذﻟﻚ ﻟﻢ ﻳﻜ ْﻦ ﻛﺎﻓﻴًﺎ‬ ْ َ ُ ّ ُ ً ّ ُ‫ﻧﺤﺘﺎج إﻟﻴﻪ ﻟﻨ‬ ‫أﺷﺨﺎﺻﺎ وﻣﻮاﻃﻨﻴﻦ؟ ﻣﺎ اﻟﺬي ﻳُﻌﻴﺪ ﺧﻠ َﻖ اﻟﺘﺒﺎدل‬ ‫ﻤﻮﻧﺎ ﺑﺼﻔﺘﻨﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺬي‬ ّ ‫اﻟﺤﺮ ﻟﻤﺸﺎﻋﺮ ﻃﻔﻮﻟﺘﻲ وآراﺋﻬﺎ؟‬

ّ ّ َ ّ ‫ﺣﻲ ﻓﻲ‬ ّ ‫ﺿﺎﺣﻴَﺘﻲ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ُ ّ ‫ﻛﻞ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻫﻮ‬ ‫أﺷـﻌﺮ اﻟﻴﻮم ﺑﺄن‬ ‫اﻟﺮﻏﻢ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﺴـﺎﻓﺎت‬ ِ َْ ّ ّ ُ ،‫اﻷﺷـﺮﻓﻴﺔ‬ ‫أﺳـﻴﺮ ﻓﻲ‬ .‫اﻟﺤﻀﺮي واﻟﻬﺠﺮة‬ ‫اﻟﺘـﻲ ﺧﻠﻘﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﻄﺒﻘﺎت واﻟﺘﺨﻄﻴﻂ‬

ُ ًّ ُ ّ ‫واﻟﺮﻗﺺ‬ ‫اﻷرﻣﻨﻲ ﺣﻴـﺚ اﻟﻤﻮﺳـﻴﻘﻰ‬ ‫ﺻﺪﻳﻖ إﻟـﻰ اﻟﻨـﺎدي‬ ‫ﻣﺪﻋـﻮ ة ﻣـﻦ ﻗِﺒَـﻞ‬ ٍ ّ ّ ‫ و وادي‬.‫واﻟﻔـﻦ ﻫـﻲ ﻓـﻲ ﺻﻤﻴـﻢ ﺟﻤﻴـﻊ اﻷﻧﺸـﻄﺔ‬ ُ ّ ‫ﺟﻤﻌﻴـﺔ‬ ‫أزور‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﻴﺮ‬ ُ ً ّ ُ ‫اﻟﺒﻴﻮت ﻓـﻲ ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﻨﻈﻴـﻒ ﺑﺠﺎﻧﺐ ﺑﻌﻀﻬـﺎ ﺑﻌﻀﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﻘﺮب‬ ‫ ﺗﺘﻜﺘـﻞ‬.‫اﻟﺸـﺮﻛﺲ‬ َ َ ّ ‫ﻣﺮﻛـﺰ‬ .‫ﻣﻌﻈﻢ وﻗﺘﻲ اﻵن‬ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ أﻗﻀـﻲ‬،‫رواد اﻟﺘﻨﻤﻴﺔ وﺗﻤﻜﻴـﻦ اﻟﻤﺠﺘﻤﻊ‬ ‫ﻣـﻦ‬ ً ُ َ َ ّ ّ ّ ‫ و‬. ‫ﻳﻌـﺞ اﻟﻤـﻜﺎن ﺑﻤﺘﻄﻮﻋﻴﻦ ﺷـﺒﺎب ﻣﻨﻬ ِﻤﻜﻴـﻦ ﻓﻲ ﺑﻨﺎء رواﻳﺔ ﺣﻴﻬـﻢ ﺛﺎﻧﻴﺔ‬ ّ ً َ ّ ّ ‫ﻛﻞ ﺷـﺨﺺ ﻣـﻦ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن ﻣﺜﻠـﻲ ﻳﺤـﻞ ﺿﻴﻔﺎ ﻋﻠـﻰ ﺑﻴﺖ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن‬،‫ﺟﺒـﻞ اﻟﺠﻮﻓـﺔ‬ ٍ

‫ﻧﺒﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﻮﻳﺴﺘﻴﺮﻳﺎ‬

myself has been a guest at Mamdouh Bisharat’s home. My favorite walks are in Wahdat refugee camp, with its bustling souq, active young people and powerful women. My heart always beats faster when I pass the Sahre’a Mosque in Jabal Weibdeh, a humble beautiful presence with a welcoming, open courtyard. On Sundays we hear the call for Muslim prayer along with the B’sharat church bells ringing …a colorful blend of spirituality. Despite the new buildings and highways Amman for me remains a “city village” colored with the mountains that are its heart, humble homes nurtured by humble people; to be Ammani is to be a citizen of multiculturalism, civic action and creativity. I now feel that I am at home anywhere in Amman - I own my stories, my wounds and my dreams …I am the daughter of all neighborhoods.

Thistle Next page: The Blue Dome of King Abdullah Mosque stands alongside the Christian Coptic Church

ّ َ ّ ‫ﻣﺨﻴﻢ اﻟﻼﺟﺌﻴـﻦ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻮﺣﺪات‬ ‫ ﺗﺠﻮاﻟـﻲ اﻟﻤﻔﻀﻞ ﻫﻮ ﻓـﻲ‬.‫ﻣﻤـﺪوح ﺑﺸـﺎرات‬ ّ ّ .‫ﺑﺎﻟﺤﻴﻮﻳـﺔ وﻧﺴـﺎﺋﻪ اﻟﻘﺎدرات‬ ‫ﺑﺴـﻮﻗﻪ اﻟﺼﺎﺧﺒـﺔ اﻟﻨﺸـﻄﺔ وﺷـﺒﺎﺑﻪ اﻟﻤﻔﻌﻤﻴـﻦ‬ ّ َ ُ ّ ‫ﻣﺮرت ﺑﺠﺎﻧﺐ ﻣﺴـﺠﺪ‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﻬﺮاﺋﻲ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﺑﻨﺒﻀﺎت أﺳـﺮع ﻛﻠﻤـﺎ‬ ‫وﻳﺨﻔـﻖ ﻗﻠﺒـﻲ‬ ِ ٍ ٌ ّ ٌ ُ‫ﺗﺮﺣﺐ‬ ٌ ‫ واﻟﺬي ﻟـﻪ ﺣﻀﻮر ﺟﻤﻴﻞ ﻣﺘﻮاﺿﻊ ﺑﺴـﺎﺣ ٍﺔ ﻣﻜﺸـﻮﻓ ٍﺔ‬،‫ﺟﺒـﻞ اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒـﺪة‬ ّ ّ ّ ُ ‫وﻧﺴـﻤﻊ أﻳّﺎم اﻵﺣﺎد اﻟﺪﻋـﻮة ﻟﻠﺼﻼة‬ .‫ﺑﺎﻟﻨـﺎس‬ ‫اﻹﺳـﻼﻣﻴﺔ ﻣﻊ دﻗﺎت أﺟﺮاس‬ ّ ٌ ّ .‫اﻟﺮوﺣﺎﻧﻴـﺔ‬ ‫ﺣﻴـﻮي ﻣـﻦ‬ ‫ﻣﺰﻳـﺞ‬ ...‫ﻛﻨﻴﺴـﺔ اﻟﺒﺸـﺎرة‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻓﺈن‬ ّ ‫ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﺗﺒﻘﻰ‬ ،‫اﻟﺮﻏﻢ ﻣﻦ اﻷﺑﻨﻴﺔ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة واﻟﻄﺮق اﻟﺴﺮﻳﻌﺔ‬ ُ ُّ ّ ‫ﺑﺎﻟﻨّﺴﺒﺔ‬ ‫ وﺑﻴﻮﺗﻬﺎ‬،‫ﺗﻠﻮ ﻧﻬﺎ اﻟﺠﺒﺎل اﻟﺘﻲ ﻫﻲ ﻗﻠﺒﻬﺎ‬ ‘‘‫إﻟﻲ ’’اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ اﻟﻘﺮﻳﺔ‬ ٌ ّ َ َ ّ ٌ ّ ‫ﻮن اﻟﻤﺮء ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻳﻌﻨﻲ أن‬ ‫ إن ﻛ‬.‫ﻣﺘﻮاﺿﻌﺔ ﻳﻐﺬ ﻳﻬﺎ أﻧﺎس ﻣﺘﻮاﺿﻌﻮن‬ ّ ‫واﻟﻌﻤﻞ‬ .‫اﻟﻤﺪﻧﻲ واﻹﺑﺪاع‬ ّ ‫ أﻣﻠﻚ ﻗﺼﺼﻲ‬-‫ﻓﻲ ﻋﻤﺎن‬

ّ ّ ً ّ ‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻳﻜﻮن ﻣﻮاﻃﻨﺎ ﻳﺘﻤﺘﻊ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﻌﺪ دﻳّﺔ‬ ّ ُ ‫أﺷﻌﺮ اﻵن ﺑﺄﻧﻲ ﻓﻲ ﺑﻴﺘﻲ ﺣﻴﺜﻤﺎ أﻛﻮن‬

.‫ أﻧﺎ اﺑﻨﺔ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ اﻷﺣﻴﺎء‬...‫وﺟﺮوﺣﻲ وأﺣﻼﻣﻲ‬

‫ﻧﺒﺎﺕ ﺷﻮﻙ ﺍﻟﺠﻤﺎﻝ‬ ‫ ﺍﻟﻘﺒّﺔ ﺍﻟﺰﺭﻗﺎﺀ ﻟﻤﺴﺠﺪ ﺍﻟﻤﻠﻚ ﻋﺒﺪﺍﻟﻠﻪ ﺑﻤﺤﺎﺫﺍﺓ‬:‫ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬ .‫ﻛﻨﻴﺴﺔ ﺍﻷﻗﺒﺎﻁ‬

ّ ُ

ّ ‫ﻳﻮم‬ ّ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﺠﺎﺑﺾ ﺑﺎﺤﻟﻴﻮﻳﺔ‬ ُ

Ahmad Humeid | ‫أﻤﺣﺪ ﺣـﻤﻴﺾ‬

Amman’s Most Colorful Day

For two years in 2008/9, I was totally pre-occupied with Amman as I was involved in the first major branding exercise for the city. The mayor at that time, Omar Maani, had instigated a series of initiatives which brought a new energy and dynamism to the city. A new urban culture was taking root in Amman, a city that was starting to understand itself. A city of new aspirations that wanted to embrace better planning practices, public transport and a colorful, vibrant new visual identity. Just two and half years later, in 2012, all of this seems a distant memory. Political events and financial constraints brought an abrupt end to many of the plans, aspirations and initiatives of the new Amman we were experiencing. But nothing can diminish the memory of that Friday in May 2009 when Amman held its first large city parade, celebrating the centennial of the foundation of its municipality. After "overdosing" on Ammanrelated work, I was really glad that I came to this event simply as a spectator: it turned out to be Amman’s most colorful day! Let’s consider some of the tough realities of contemporary Amman - forget, for a moment, the “10 thousand years of history” the tourism people like to talk about - this is a city of refugees. Many would object to this description and protest: "What about the Arab tribes who lived in this area?” True. Arab tribes lived here before the arrival of the first refugees. But the contemporary history of Amman as a village, then town, then metropolis started with the Circassians, brutally expelled from their land. Then an influx of Jordanians from other parts of the country, then Palestinians, Syrians, Kurds, Chechens, right up to the recent influx of Iraqis (and many other groups throughout the decades). For some, Amman was a "utopian" destination representing a new Arab order, a new beginning. But this is largely a city of displaced people. It is a socially diverse city. Amman has one foot in the developing world; it is not a European middle-class city, but a place where people just wanted to build a house where they felt

Left: Ammanscape

ً ً ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻣﺸـﻐﻮﻻ‬ ُ ُ ‫ﺸـﺎر ﺎﻛ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ ُﻣ‬ ‫ﺑﻌﻤﺎن؛ ﻷﻧﻲ‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ‬ (‫م‬٢٠٠٩ -٢٠٠٨ ) ‫ﻟﻤﺪ ة ﺳـﻨﺘَﻴﻦ‬ ِ ْ َ ّ ‫ ﻛﺎن أﻣﻴﻦ‬.‫ﺖ ﺑﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬ ّ ‫ﺟﻬـﻮد إﻋـﺎدة َﺧﻠﻖ ُﻫﻮ ّﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﺘـﻲ ﻗﺎﻣ‬ ِ ً َ َ ّ َ َ‫ﺳﻠﺴـﻠﺔ ُﻣﺒﺎدرات ﻣﻨ‬ َ ‫ﺷـﺠ‬ ‫ﻗﺪ‬ ،‫اﻟﻤﻌﺎﻧﻲ‬ ‫ ﻋﻤـﺮ‬،‫ﺣﻴﻨﻬـﺎ‬ ‫ـﺖ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻃﺎﻗﺔ‬ ‫ﺤ‬ ‫ﻊ‬ ِ ٍ ٌ ٌ ً ّ ُ َ ٌ ّ ّ ‫ ﺛﻘﺎﻓـﺔ َﺣ َﻀ‬.‫ـﺔ ﺟﺪﻳﺪﺗَﻴـﻦ‬ ُ ‫ﺟﺬورﻫﺎ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﺗﺘﺄﺻـﻞ‬ ‫ﺮﻳـﺔ ﺟﺪﻳﺪة راﺣﺖ‬ ‫ودﻳﻨﺎﻣﻴ‬

ٌ َ ْ َ ّ ُ ‫ﺗﺮﻏ‬ ُ ‫ﺐ‬ ‫ﺑﻄﻤﻮﺣﺎت ﺟﺪﻳـﺪة ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬ ‫ ﻣﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬.‫ﺗﻔﻬﻢ ذاﺗﻬـﺎ‬ ‫ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺑـﺪأت‬،‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ ٍ ّ ُ ّ َ ّ ‫وﻫﻮ ّﻳـﺔ‬ ‫وﻣﻮاﺻ‬ ،‫ﺗﺨﻄﻴـﻂ أﻓﻀـﻞ‬ ‫ﻣﻤﺎرﺳـﺎت‬ ‫ﻓـﻲ ﺗﺒﻨـﻲ‬ ‫ﻣﻠﻮ ﻧ ٍﺔ‬ ٍ ِ ‫ـﻼت ﻋﺎﻣـﺔ‬ ٍ ِ ٍ .‫ﺟﺪﻳـﺪ ٍة ﻧﺎﺑﻀـ ٍﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﺤﻴـﺎة‬

ُ ُ ‫ﺟﻤﻴﻌﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ ذﻛﺮﻳﺎت‬ ‫اﻷﻣﻮر‬ ‫ ﺗﺒﺪو ﻫﺬه‬،‫م‬٢٠١٢ ‫ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬،‫ﺑﻌﺪ ﺳﻨﺘَﻴﻦ وﻧﺼﻒ ﻓﻘﻂ‬ ُ ْ َ ّ ّ ‫ﻧﺤﻮ ﻣﻔﺎﺟﺊ‬ ٍ ‫ ﻓﺎﻷﺣﺪاث اﻟﺴﻴﺎﺳﻴﺔ واﻷوﺿﺎع اﻟﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ وﺿﻌﺖ ﻋﻠﻰ‬،‫اﻟﻤﺎﺿﻲ اﻟﺒﻌﻴﺪ‬ ّ ً َ َ ‫ﻛﻨﺎ ﻧ‬ ّ ‫ﺣﺪا ﻟﻠﻌﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﻦ ُﺧ َﻄﻂ‬ .‫ﺸﻬ ُﺪﻫﺎ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة وﻃﻤﻮﺣﺎﺗﻬﺎ وﻣﺒﺎدراﺗﻬﺎ اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ّ ‫ اﻟﺠﻤﻌﺔ‬،‫ ﻟﻢ ﺗﺘﻤﻜ ْﻦ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺤﺎﻟﺔ اﻟﺮاﻫﻨﺔ ﻣﻦ إﺿﻌﺎف ذﻛﺮى ذﻟﻚ اﻟﻴﻮم‬،‫ﻣﻊ ذﻟﻚ‬

ْ َ ّ ‫ﺖ ﻓﻴﻪ‬ َ ‫ﺑﺄول اﺳﺘﻌﺮاض ﻛﺒﻴﺮ‬ ّ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ﻟﻠﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫ اﻟﻴﻮم اﻟﺬي ﻗﺎﻣ‬،‫م‬٢٠٠٩ ‫ ﻣﺎﻳﻮ‬/ ‫ أﻳّﺎر‬٩ ‫ﻓﻲ‬ ٍ ٍ ً ّ ّ ‫ ﺑﻌﺪ أن‬.‫اﻟﻤﺌﻮﻳﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺗﺄﺳﻴﺲ ﺑﻠﺪﻳّﺘﻬﺎ‬ ّ ُ ‫ﺗﺸﺒ‬ ‫اﺣﺘﻔﺎﻻ ﺑﺎﻟﺬﻛﺮى‬ ‘‘‫ﻌﺖ ’’ﺑﺠﺮﻋ ٍﺔ زاﺋﺪة‬ َ َ ً ً ً ّ ‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻌﻤﻞ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ُ ،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ،‫ﻛﻨﺖ ﺳﻌﻴﺪا ﺣﻘﺎ ﺑﺤﻀﻮري ﻫﺬا اﻟﺤﺪث ﺑﺼﻔﺘﻲ ُﻣﺸﺎ ِﻫﺪا‬ ّ ‫ﻳﻮم‬ َ ‫إﻟﻲ‬ ّ ّ ‫وﻗﺪ ﻛﺎن ﺑﺎﻟﻨّﺴﺒﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ !‫اﻟﻐﻨﻲ ﺑﺎﻷﻟﻮان‬

ّ ُ ّ ‫ﻔﻜـﺮ اﻵن ﻓﻘـﻂ ﻓﻲ ﺑﻌﺾ اﻟﺤﻘﺎﺋﻖ اﻟﺼﻌﺒﺔ ﻋﻦ‬ َ َ‫ وﻟْﻨ‬-‫ﻋﻤـﺎن اﻟﻤﻌﺎﺻﺮة‬ ‫ﻓﻠﻨ‬ ‫ﻨﺲ ﻟﻮ‬ ِ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻳﺤﺐ‬ ‫ﻟﻠﺤﻈـﺔ واﺣﺪة ’’ﺗﺎرﻳﺦ اﻟﻌﺸـﺮة آﻻف ﺳـﻨﺔ‘‘ اﻟﺘـﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﺎﺋﺤﻮن أن ﻳﺘﺤﺪﺛﻮا‬ ُ ّ ً ‫ إﻧﻬﺎ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ إﺣﺘﻀﻨﺖ أﻋﺪادا ﻛﺒﻴﺮة ﻣـﻦ اﻻﺟﺌﻴﻦ ﺣﺘﻰ أﻧﻪ ﻳﻘﺎل أﻧﻬﺎ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬.‫ﺑﺸـﺄﻧﻪ‬ ُ ُ ْ َ ‫ﺑﻌﺾ اﻟﻨﺎس ﻋﻠﻰ ﻫﺬا‬ ‫’’ﻟﻜﻦ‬ :‫اﻟﻮﺻـﻒ وﻳﺤﺘَ ّﺠﻮن ﺑﺎﻟﻘﻮل‬ ‫ ﻗـﺪ ﻳﻌﺘﺮض‬.‫ﻻﺟﺌﻴﻦ‬

َ ْ َ ّ ‫ﺖ‬ ِ ‫ ﺳﻜﻨ‬.‫ﻣﺎذا ﺑﺸـﺄن اﻟﻘﺒﺎﺋﻞ اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻋﺎﺷﺖ ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﻨﻄﻘﺔ؟‘‘ ﻫﺬا ﺻﺤﻴﺢ‬ ُ ّ ‫ﻟﻜﻦ ﺗﺎرﻳـﺦ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﻤﻌﺎﺻﺮ‬ .‫اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ ﻫﻨﺎ ﻗﺒﻞ وﺻـﻮل اﻟﻼﺟﺌﻴﻦ اﻷواﺋﻞ‬ ‫اﻟﻘﺒﺎﺋـﻞ‬

ً ُ ً ُ ً ّ ُ ّ ً ‫ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ رﺋﻴﺴـﺔ ﺑ‬ ‫ﺑﻮﺣﺸـﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺪء ﻣﻦ اﻟﺸـﺮﻛﺲ اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﻫ ّﺠﺮوا‬ ‫ﺑﺼﻔﺘﻬﺎ ﻗﺮﻳﺔ ﻋ ّﻢ ﺑﻠﺪة ﻋ ّﻢ‬ ِ ّ ُ ُ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻔﻠﺴﻄﻴﻨﻴﻴﻦ‬ ‫ ﻋ ّﻢ‬،‫ ﻋ ّﻢ ﺑﺪأ ﺗﺪﻓ ُﻖ اﻷردﻧﻴﻴﻦ ﻣﻦ أﺟﺰا ٍء أﺧﺮى ﻣﻦ اﻟﺒﻼد‬.‫ﻣﻦ أرﺿﻬﻢ‬ ً ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻟﻠﻌﺮاﻗﻴﻴﻦ )وﺟﻤﺎﻋﺎت‬ ‫ وﺻﻮﻻ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺘﺪﻓﻖ اﻷﺧﻴﺮ‬،‫واﻟﺴﻮرﻳﻴﻦ واﻷﻛﺮاد واﻟﺸﻴﺸﺎن‬ ّ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬،‫ ﺑﺎﻟﻨّﺴـﺒﺔ إﻟـﻰ اﻟﺒﻌـﺾ‬.(‫ﻣـﺮ اﻟﻌﻘﻮد‬ ّ ‫أﺧـﺮى ﻛﺜﻴـﺮة ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن ’’اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ً ّ ّ ً ً ‫ﺗﻤﺜ ُﻞ‬ ‫اﻟﻔﺎﺿﻠﺔ‘‘ اﻟﻤﻘﺼﻮدة اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ‫ وﻟﻜﻨﻬﺎ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬.‫ ﺑﺪاﻳﺔ ﺟﺪﻳﺪة‬-‫ﻧﻈﺎﻣﺎ ﻋﺮﺑﻴًﺎ ﺟﺪﻳﺪا‬ ّ .‫ﻓﻲ اﻷﻏﻠﺐ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻟﻠﻨﺎزﺣﻴﻦ‬ َ ُ ٌ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﺗﺰال‬ ّ ‫ﻣﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬ ‫ ﻣﺎ‬.‫ﻣﻨﻮﻋﺔ اﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﻴًـﺎ‬ ‫إﻧﻬـﺎ‬ ‫ وﻫﻲ‬،‫ﻋﻤـﺎن ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻌﺎﻟـﻢ اﻟﻨﺎﻣﻲ‬ ً َ ٌ ْ َ ُ ّ ُ ‫أوروﭘﻴـﺔ ﻟﻠﻄﺒﻘﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻨـﺎس ﻓﻘﻂ أن‬ ‫ ﺑﻞ ﻫـﻲ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ أراد‬،‫اﻟﻮﺳـﻄﻰ‬ ‫ﻟﻴﺴـﺖ ﻣﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬

‫ﭘﺎﻧﻮﺭﺍﻣﻲ ﻟﻌ ّﻤﺎﻥ‬ ‫ ﻣﺸﻬﺪ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬ ّ

safe. Have a job. Get the kids educated. No time to philosophize about this “city”. A city with an inferiority complex. A young Arab capital trying to stand shoulder to shoulder with Baghdad, Cairo, Damascus. Not to mention western capitals. Amman is often described as “boring”, “not a city”, “fringe”, “unplanned”. A capital city of an “artificial” country. Those who feel that way forget, of course, that all identities are “artificial”. Yet when a country is still relatively young, many people scoff at its still emerging identity and capital. A city undiscovered by many of its own citizens … the 22-year old girl who’s never been to downtown Amman and the 25-year old guy who doesn’t know what Rainbow Street is. A city that, until recently, was often treated by the “authorities” as a traffic and infrastructure challenge and not as a cultural opportunity. So….. can such a city have a good parade? The answer is a resounding “yes”… and maybe it was the little touches that made this parade a success. The city cleaners, those men in orange that we often ignore, were suddenly marching center stage and greeted by the crowd. The street sellers with their typical carts carrying anything from vegetables to a meat grill, marched through the city with the same importance as the police motorbikes. The second-hand clothes sellers were there too, dragging their racks through the parade. The “annoying” gas sellers, represented by a gas pickup. Amman’s most famous cartoon characters (Abu Mahjoob and Abu Muhammad), businesses, NGOs, actors. Not to mention horses, camels and lots of balloons! Suddenly it was all there. The people, the organizations, the history, the authorities. They were all marching together with Amman watching them. For a few hours, a city simply celebrated itself. Just think, this was the first time this had happened in Amman. Just consider all the tough realities, and you’ll understand the importance of what happened on that Friday. This event was not a “deep” intellectual exercise. But it achieved something that is intellectually very important: making Amman realize its own “cityness”. Our Amman is a product of the 20th century, now moving into the 21st century. And this is what was celebrated. Not the Romans. Not the Ammonites. Not the Umayyads. But the people who are the Amman of today.

Right: The Corn Seller

ّ ُ ،‫ وﻳﻌﻠﻤﻮا أوﻻدﻫﻢ‬،‫وﻳﺤﺼﻠﻮا ﻋﻠﻰ وﻇﻴﻔﺔ‬ ،‫ﻳﺒﻨﻮا ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﺑﻴﺘًﺎ ﻳﺸـﻌﺮون ﻓﻴﻪ ﺑﺎﻷﻣﺎن‬ ّ ُ ‫ﻟﻠﺘ َﻔ‬ ‫ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻮاﺟﻬﺔ ﻣﻊ‬.‘‘‫ﻠﺴـﻒ ﺑﺸﺄن ﻫﺬه ’’اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫وﻗﺖ‬ ِ ‫ﻓﻠﻢ ﻳﻜﻦ ﻣﻦ‬ ُ ٌ ٌ َ ّ َ ُ َ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺪ‬ َ ‫ ﻓﻬﻲ ﻋﺎﺻﻤﺔ ﻋﺮﺑﻴـﺔ ﻓﺘﻴﺔ ﺗﺤﺎول أن ﺗﻀﺎ ِﻫ‬،‫وﻧﻴـﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻘـﺪة‬ ‫ـﻲ ﺑﻐﺪاد واﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮة‬ ِ ُ ّ ّ ‫ﺗﻮﺻـﻒ‬ ّ َ .‫اﻟﻐﺮﺑﻴﺔ‬ ‫ ﻧﺎﻫﻴـﻚ ﺑﺎﻟﻌﻮاﺻـﻢ‬،‫ودﻣﺸـﻖ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻓﻲ ﻣﻌﻈـﻢ اﻷﺣﻴﺎن ﺑﺄﻧﻬﺎ‬

ٌ ّ ُ ّ ّ ‫ إﻧﻬﺎ ﻋﺎﺻﻤﺔ‬.‘‘‫ﻣﺨﻄﻂ ﻟﻬـﺎ‬ ‫ ’’ﻏﻴﺮ‬،‘‘‫’’ﻣﻬﻤﺸـﺔ‬ ،‘‘‫ ’’ﻟﻴﺴـﺖ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬،‘‘‫’’ﻣﻀﺠـﺮة‬ ّ ّ ّ َ ‫إن اﻟﺬﻳـﻦ ﻳﺸـﻌﺮون ﺑﻬـﺬا‬ ‫ أن‬،‫ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﺄﻛﻴﺪ‬،‫ﻳﻨﺴـﻮن‬ .‘‘‫ﻟﺒﻠـﺪ ’’ﺻﻨﻌﺘـﻪ اﻷﺣـﺪاث‬ ٍ ُ َ ُ ُ ُ ً،‫اﻟﺪوﻟﺔ ﻓَﺘ ّﻴﺔ ﻧﺴـﺒﻴﺎ‬ ّ َ ْ َ ُ‫ﻳﺴـﺨﺮ‬ ‫ ﻟﻜﻦ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﺗﻜﻮن‬.‘‘‫ﺟﻤﻴـﻊ اﻟﻬ ِﻮﻳﺎت ’’ﻣﺼﻄﻨﻌﺔ‬ ِ ُ ٌ .‫أﺷـﺨﺎص ﻛﺜﻴﺮون ﻣﻦ ﻫ ِﻮ ّﻳﺘﻬﺎ وﻋﺎﺻﻤﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﻠﺘﻴﻦ ﻻ ﺗﺰاﻻن ﻓﻲ ﻃﻮر اﻟﺘﺸـﻜﻴﻞ‬

َ َ ُ ٌ ٌ ّ ‫ ﻓﻘﺪ ﻳﻜﻮن ﻫﻨﺎﻟﻚ ﻓﺘﺎة‬...‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻟﻢ ﺗﻜﺘﺸﻒ ﻣﻦ ﻗِﺒَﻞ اﻟﻌﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﻦ ﻣﻮاﻃﻨﻴﻬﺎ‬ َ ّ ْ ّ ‫رؤﻳﺔ وﺳـﻂ‬ ّ ‫ﻳﺴـﺒﻖ ﻟﻬﺎ‬ ‫ وﺷﺎب ﻓﻲ‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ﻗﻂ‬ ‫ ﻟﻢ‬،‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﺜﺎﻧﻴﺔ واﻟﻌﺸـﺮﻳﻦ ﻣﻦ ﻋﻤﺮﻫﺎ‬ ُ .‫اﻟﺨﺎﻣﺴﺔ واﻟﻌﺸﺮﻳﻦ ﻻ ﻳﻌﺮف ﻣﺎ ﻫﻮ ﺷﺎرع اﻟﺮﻳﻨﺒﻮ‬

ُ ّ َ ّ ‫ ﻋﻠﻰ‬،‫وﻗﺖ ﻗﺮﻳﺐ‬ ٍ ‫ﻣﺪﻳﻨـﺔ ﻟﻄﺎﻟﻤﺎ ﻧﻈﺮ إﻟﻴﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ ِﻗﺒﻞ ’’اﻟﺴـﻠﻄﺎت اﻹدارﻳـﺔ‘‘ وﺣﺘﻰ‬ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫ وﻟﻴـﺲ ﺑﺎﻋﺘﺒﺎرﻫﺎ‬،‫اﻟﺘﺤﺘﻴﺔ‬ ‫أﻧﻬـﺎ ﺗﺸـﻜﻞ ﺗﺤﺪﻳًﺎ ﻣـﻦ ﻧﺎﺣﻴﺔ ﺣﺮﻛﺔ اﻟﻤـﺮور واﻟﺒﻨﻴﺔ‬ ً ّ .‫ﺛﻘﺎﻓﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻓﺮﺻﺔ‬ ً ٌ َ ‫ ﻫﻞ ﻳﻤﻜﻦ ﻟﻤﺜﻞ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ أن ﻳﻜﻮن ﻟﺪﻳﻬﺎ اﺳـﺘﻌﺮاض ﺑﻬﺬا اﻟﻤﺴـﺘﻮى؟‬،‫إذا‬ َ ْ َ ُ ُ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺼﻐﻴﺮة ﻫﻲ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺟﻌﻠﺖ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﻠﻤﺴـﺎت‬ ‫ﺖ‬ ِ ‫ ورﺑﻤﺎ ﻛﺎﻧ‬.‫اﻟﺠﻮاب ﻫﻮ ’’ﻧﻌﻢ‘‘ ﻣﺪوﻳﺔ‬ ُ ّ ً ّ ‫ ﻫـﺆﻻء اﻟﺮﺟﺎل اﻟﺬﻳـﻦ ﻳﺮﺗﺪون‬،‫ـﺎل ﻧﻈﺎﻓﺔ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺰي‬ ‫ ﻋﻤ‬.‫ﻧﺎﺟﺤﺎ‬ ‫ﻫـﺬا اﻟﻌـﺮض‬ ِ ً ّ ً ّ ‫ راﺣﻮا ﻓﺠﺄة ﻳﺸـﺎرﻛﻮن ﻓﻲ ﻣﺴـﻴﺮ ٍة ﺗﺤﻴﻴﻬﻢ‬،‫ واﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﻏﺎﻟﺒﺎ ﻣﺎ ﻧﻨﺴـﺎﻫﻢ‬،‫اﻟﺒﺮﺗﻘﺎﻟـﻲ‬ ُ ً َ .‫ﻓﻴﻬـﺎ اﻟﺠﻤﺎﻫﻴﺮ‬ ‫وﺷـﺎر َك ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺴـﻴﺮة أﻳﻀﺎ ﺑﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺸـﻮارع ﺑﻌﺮﺑﺎﺗِﻬﻢ اﻟﻤﺘﺸـﺎﺑﻬﺔ‬ ّ ُ ّ َ ُ ‫ ﺳﺎروا ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬،‫اﻟﻤﺸﻬﻮرة اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺤﻤﻞ ﻛﻞ ﺷﻲء ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﻀﺮ إﻟﻰ ﻣﻨﺎﻗﻞ اﻟﺸﻮاء‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﺎﻷﻫﻤ ّﻴﺔ ﻧﻔﺴـﻬﺎ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻟﺮﺟﺎل اﻟﺸﺮﻃﺔ راﻛﺒﻲ‬ ‫ وﺎﻛن ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺴﻴﺮة‬.‫اﻟﻨﺎرﻳﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺪراﺟﺎت‬ ّ َُ ً َ .‫ﻳﺴـﺤﺒﻮن اﻷرﻓﻒ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻳﻌﻠﻘﻮن ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﻼﺑﺲ‬ ‫أﻳﻀﺎ ﺑﺎﺋﻌﻮ اﻟﺜﻴﺎب اﻟﻤﺴـﺘﻌﻤﻠﺔ‬ َْ ُ ّ َ ّ ُ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻜﺮﺗﻮﻧﻴﺔ اﻷﻛﺜﺮ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ وﺷﺨﺼﻴﺎت‬.‫ ﺗﻤﺜﻠﻬﻢ ﺷﺎﺣﻨﺔ ﻏﻘ ِﻞ ِﺟﺮار اﻟﻐﺎز‬،‫وﺑﺎﺋﻌﻮ اﻟﻐﺎز‬ ُ ّ ّ ّ ،‫اﻟﺤﻜﻮﻣﻴﺔ‬ ‫ واﻟﻤﻨﻈﻤﺎت ﻏﻴﺮ‬،‫ ورﺟﺎل اﻷﻋﻤـﺎل‬،(‫ﻣﺤﻤﺪ‬ ‫ﺷـﻬﺮة )أﺑﻮ ﻣﺤﺠﻮب وأﺑﻮ‬ ّ َ ‫ ﺣﻀﺮ ﻫﺆﻻء‬.‫واﻟﺠﻤـﺎل واﻟﻜﺜﻴﺮ ﻣـﻦ اﻟﺒﺎﻟﻮﻧـﺎت‬ ِ ‫ ﻧﺎﻫﻴـﻚ ﺑﺎﻷﺣﺼﻨـﺔ‬،‫واﻟﻤﻤﺜﻠـﻮن‬ ً ‫ﺟﻤﻴﻌﺎ‬ ً ّ ّ ،‫ واﻟﺘﺎرﻳﺦ‬،‫واﻟﻤﺆﺳﺴـﺎت‬ ‫ﻣﻌﺎ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧﻮا‬.‫واﻟﺴﻠﻄﺎت‬ ،‫ اﻟﻨﺎس‬:‫ﺟﻤﻴﻌﻬﻢ إﻟﻰ ﻫﻨﺎك‬ ّ ‫ﻓﻲ ﻣﺴﻴﺮة واﺣﺪة‬ .‫وﻋﻤﺎن ﺗﺮاﻗﺒُﻬﻢ‬ ٍ ٍ

َ َ ّ ّ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺗﻠﻚ‬،‫ﻓﻜﺮ ﻓﻲ اﻷﻣﺮ‬ .‫ﺖ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﺑﺒﺴﺎﻃ ٍﺔ ﺑﻨﻔﺴﻬﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺮة‬ ِ ‫ اﺣﺘﻔﻠ‬،‫ﻟﺒﻀﻊ ﺳـﺎﻋﺎت‬ ُ ُ ّ ُ ُ‫اﻟﺼﻌﺐ وﻋﻨﺪﺋﺬ ﺳـﺘ‬ ّ ‫اﻷﻣﻮر ﻓﻲ‬ َ َ ُ ‫ﺪرك‬ ‫اﻟﻮاﻗﻊ‬ ‫ ﺗﺄﻣ ِﻞ‬.‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ﺗﺤﺪث ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻫﺬه‬ ‫اﻷو اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ٍ ً َ ُ ّ ّ ،‘‘‫ﻓﻜﺮﻳﺔ ’’ﻋﻤﻴﻘﺔ‬ ‫ ﻟﻢ ﺗﻜ ْﻦ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟﺤﺎدﺛﺔ ﻣﻤﺎرﺳﺔ‬.‫أﻫﻤ ّﻴﺔ ﻣﺎ ﺣﺪث ﻓﻲ ﻳﻮم اﻟﺠﻤﻌﺔ ذاك‬ ّ ّ ُ ّ ْ َ ً ً ً ّ ‫ﺖ‬ ّ .‘‘‫ﺗﺪرك ’’أﻧﻬﺎ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ ﺟﻌﻠ‬:‫اﻟﻔﻜﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﻬﻤﺎ ﺟﺪا ﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﺎﺣﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻟﻜﻨﻬﺎ ﺣﻘﻘﺖ أﻣﺮا‬ ُ ّ ‫ وﻫﺬا‬.‫ ﺗﻨﺘﻘﻞ اﻵن إﻟﻰ اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﺤﺎدي واﻟﻌﺸﺮﻳﻦ‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎﻧﻨﺎ ﻫﻲ ﻧﺘﺎج اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻌﺸﺮﻳﻦ‬ ً ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﺣﺘﻔـﺎﻻ‬ ‫ وﻻ‬،‫ﺑﺎﻟﺮوﻣﺎن‬ ‫ ﻟﻴﺲ ﻫﻮ‬.‫ﻣـﺎ ﺟﺮى اﻻﺣﺘﻔﺎل ﺑﻪ‬ ،‫اﻷﻣﻮﻳﻴﻦ‬ ‫ وﻻ‬،‫اﻟﻌﻤﻮﻧﻴﻴﻦ‬

ّ ‫ ﺑﺎﺋﻊ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺬﺭﺓ‬

What made this possible? Amman Municipality’s 100th birthday was presided over by a mayor who believed that Amman should have a “soul”. This gave a voice to those Ammanis who saw value not only in the ancient history of the place (which indeed is important), but also the contemporary collage of the last 100 years. In the background there was a branding initiative which gave Amman a new visual language that celebrated the populated hills and the diversity of the people .The immense challenges facing Amman have not gone away, of course. But on that Friday the city seemed to take the momentous step of accepting itself and even daring to show its colors.

ّ ّ ‫ﻳﺸﻜﻠﻮن‬ .‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﻴﻮم‬ ‫ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺎس اﻟﺬﻳﻦ‬ ‫ﺑﻞ‬ ِ

ّ َ ً ّ ‫ﻣﺌﻮﻳﺔ ﺑﻠﺪﻳّﺔ‬ ّ ٌ ‫أﻣﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫اﺣﺘﻔﺎﻻت‬ ‫ﻣﺎ اﻟﺬي ﺟﻌﻞ ﻫﺬا اﻷﻣﺮ ﻣﻤﻜﻨﺎ؟ ﺗﺮأ َس‬ ِ ّ َ ّ َ ً ٌ ّ ‫ﺗﻜﻮن‬ ‫ وﻫﺬا ﻣﺎ أﻋﻄﻰ َﺻﻮﺗﺎ ﻟﺴﻜﺎن‬.‘‘‫ﻟﻌﻤﺎن ’’روح‬ ‫آﻣﻦ ﺑﺄﻧﻪ ﻳﻨﺒﻐﻲ أن‬ ً ّ ‫ أوﻟﺌﻚ اﻟﺬﻳﻦ رأوا ﻗﻴﻤﺔ ﻟﻴﺲ ﻓﻲ ﺗﺎرﻳﺦ اﻟﻤﻜﺎن اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻢ ﻓﺤﺴﺐ )اﻟﺬي‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ً َ ّ ّ ‫ ﻓﻲ‬.‫اﻟﻌﺼﺮي ﻣﻦ اﻟﺴﻨﻮات اﻟﻤﺌﺔ اﻷﺧﻴﺮة‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻠﺼﻖ‬ ‫ ﺑﻞ أﻳﻀﺎ ﻓﻲ‬،(‫ﻣﻬﻢ‬ ‫ﻫﻮ‬

ً ْ َ ّ ‫ﺖ‬ ّ ‫اﻟﺨﻠﻔﻴﺔ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻫﻨﺎك ﻣﺒﺎدرة ’’إﻋﺎدة َﺧﻠﻖ ُﻫﻮ ّﻳﺔ‬ ّ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻟﻐﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‘‘ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻣﻨﺤ‬ ِ ّ ًّ ّ ْ َ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﺼﺮﻳﺔ ﺟﺪﻳﺪة اﺣﺘﻔﻠﺖ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﻼل اﻟﻤﺄﻫﻮﻟﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﺴﻜﺎن‬ ‫ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﺄﻛﻴﺪ‬.‫وﺗﻨﻮع اﻟﻨﺎس‬

ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺘﺤﺪﻳﺎت اﻟﻬﺎﺋﻠﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻮاﺟ ُﻪ‬ ْ ‫ﻟﻜﻦ ﻓﻲ ﻳﻮم اﻟﺠﻤﻌﺔ ذاك‬ ،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ﻟﻢ ﺗﺨﺘَ ِﻒ‬ ِ َ ّ َ ً ً ْ َ ّ ‫ﺧﻄﻮة‬ ‫ ﺑﻞ‬،‫ﻣﻬﻤﺔ ﺟﺪا إﻟﻰ اﻷﻣﺎم ﺑﻘﺒﻮﻟﻬﺎ ذاﺗﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻳﺒﺪو أن اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻗﺪ ﺧ َﻄﺖ‬ ّ ً ّ .‫ﺗﺠﺮأت أﻳﻀﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻈﻬﻮر ﺑﺄﻟﻮاﻧﻬﺎ‬

One of my favourite venues in the city is Weibdeh's Darat Al Funun - the gardens are trranqil, the views to Jabal Amman are stunning. The lower terrace includes the remains of a Byzantine church.

،‫ اﺤﻟﺪاﺋﻖ اﻬﻟﺎدﺋﺔ‬- ‫واﺣﺪة ﻣﻦ اﻷﻣﺎﻛﻦ اﻤﻟﻔﻀﻠﺔ ﻲﻓ اﻤﻟﺪﻳﻨﺔ اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒﺪة ﻲﻓ دارة اﻟﻔﻨﻮن‬ .‫ ا رﺟﺎت اﻟﺴﻔﻠﻴﺔ ﺗﻀﻢ ﺑﻘﺎﻳﺎ ﻛﻨﻴﺴﺔ ﺑﺰﻴﻧﻄﻴﺔ‬.‫اﻤﻟﻨﻈﺮ ﺠﻟﺒﻞ ﻋﻤﺎن ﻣﻦ ﻫﻨﺎك ﻣﺬﻫﻞ‬

Left: Darat Al Funun IV Above: Sketch of Omar Bin Al Khattab St.

٤ ‫ ﺩﺍﺭﺓ ﺍﻟﻔﻨﻮﻥ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬ ّ ‫ ﺳﻜﺘﺶ ﺷﺎﺭﻉ ﻋﻤﺮ ﺑﻦ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻷﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺨﻄﺎﺏ‬

Barbara Porter |

ّ ّ ‫ﺗﺄﻣﻼت ﻲﻓ اﺤﻟﻴﺎة ﻲﻓ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬

Reflections on Living in Amman

Getting to know Amman, which I first saw in 1967 on a family trip from Lebanon, remains a privilege of living here as Director of the American Center of Oriental Research (ACOR) since 2006. This research institute, founded in 1968, has grown with the city. It was first located in Jabal Amman near the First Circle. When I was excavating in spring 1977 at Tell Mazar in the Jordan Valley it was ACOR’s then Third Circle house that was our refuge, and I am ever mindful of the role ACOR plays as a home in Amman. The burgeoning center needed a new building, and a location was eventually chosen on a hill across from the campus of the University of Jordan. Those involved in the process knew that an archaeological site, Khirbet Salameh, was immediately beside the selected area where a purpose-built center was built in 1986. Thus from the director’s apartment I look down on a Byzantine farmhouse excavated in the early 1990s as part of an archaeological field school for University of Jordan students. This ruin is still surrounded on three sides by fields planted with wheat, and the whole picture provides me with a sense of tranquility in all seasons—the snow of winter, the flowers of spring, the brown harvested fields of summer, and the tilled fields for sowing in the fall. Shepherds frequently fill the landscape with their flocks. On one visit to Widad Kawar, the renowned collector of Palestinian costumes, she told me that gathering a few stalks of wheat in spring brings good luck. Ever since I have added annually to a collection that fills a Silsal vase inscribed with felicitous sayings. Khirbet Salameh at our doorstep in Tl’a Ali is just one of many sites that abound in Amman but can be hard to find. These places represent many millennia of human occupation in the greater Amman region. The best known is surely the Citadel where the Roman Temple of Hercules dates from the late second century and was restored as an ACOR project funded by USAID as part of an effort to make the Citadel a visitor destination. For archaeologists, the mega site of Ain Ghazal lying in northeastern Amman is incredibly significant for understanding the late Neolithic period of Jordan. There the habita-

Left: Darat Al Funun II

ّ ّ ‫إن ﻣﻌﺮﻓﺘـﻲ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﻌﻤـﺎن اﻟﺘﻲ رأﻳﺘُﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻋﺎﺋﻠﻴﺔ‬ ‫م ﻓﻲ أﺛﻨﺎء رﺣﻠ ٍﺔ‬١٩٦٧ ‫ﻟﻠﻤﺮة اﻷو ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ َ ً ً ّ ‫اﻷﻣﻴﺮﻛﻲ ﻟﻠﺒﺤﻮث‬ ‫اﻣﺘﻴـﺎزا ﻟﻺﻗﺎﻣﺔ ﻫﻨﺎ ﺑﺼﻔﺘـﻲ ﻣﺪﻳﺮة ﻟﻠﻤﺮﻛـﺰ‬ ‫ ﻳﺒﻘﻰ‬،‫ﻣـﻦ ﻟﺒﻨـﺎن‬ ّ ‫ واﻟﺬي‬،‫ ﻧﻤﺎ ﻣﻌﻬﺪ اﻟﺒﺤﻮث ﻫﺬا‬.‫م‬٢٠٠٦ ‫اﻟﺸﺮﻗﻴﺔ ﻣﻨﺬ ﻋﺎم‬ ّ ً‫ ﺟﻨﺒﺎ‬،‫م‬١٩٦٨ ‫ﺗﺄﺳﺲ ﻋﺎم‬ ّ ‫أو ًﻻ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺒﻞ‬ ُ ّ ‫إﻟـﻰ ﺟﻨﺐ ﻣﻊ‬ ّ ‫اﻟﺪوار‬ ّ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻗـﺮب‬ ّ ‫ﻣﻮﻗﻌﻪ‬ .‫اﻷول‬ ‫ وﺎﻛن‬،‫ﻧﻤﻮ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬ ُ ُ ّ ّ ‫م ﻓﻲ ﺗـﻞ اﻟﻤﺰار ﻓﻲ‬١٩٧٧ ‫ﻋﻤﻠﻴـﺎت اﻟﺘﻨﻘﻴﺐ ﻓﻲ رﺑﻴﻊ ﻋـﺎم‬ ‫ﻛﻨـﺖ أﺟﺮي‬ ‫ﻋﻨﺪﻣـﺎ‬ َ ُ َ ُ ّ ‫ وأﻧﺎ‬،‫ﺑﻤﻠﺠﺈ ﻟﻨﺎ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن ﻣﻮﻗﻊ اﻟﻤﺮﻛﺰ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺪوار اﻟﺜﺎﻟﺚ أﺷـﺒﻪ ﻣﺎ ﻳﻜﻮن‬،‫ﻏﻮر اﻷردن‬ ٍ َ ّ ً َ ٌ ُ ّ َ ‫اﻟﻤﺮﻛﺰ اﻟﺬي‬ َ ‫اﻟﺪ‬ .‫أﺣﺴﺒُﻪ ﻣﺜﻞ ﺑﻴﺘﻲ ﻓﻲ ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ور اﻟﺬي ﻟﻌﺒَﻪ‬ ‫ﺪرﻛﺔ دوﻣﺎ‬ ِ ‫ﻣ‬ َ ُ ً ُ ‫اﻟﻤﺮﻛ‬ َ ،‫ـﺰ ﺣﺪﻳـﺚ اﻟﻌﻬـﺪ ﻓـﻲ ﺣﺎﺟـ ٍﺔ إﻟـﻰ ﻣﺒﻨﻰ ﺟﺪﻳـﺪ‬ ‫ﻛﺎن‬ ‫ﻓﺎﺧﺘﻴﺮ ﻓـﻲ ﻧﻬﺎﻳﺔ‬ ّ َ َ ّ ٌ ‫ ﻋ ِﻠﻢ اﻟﻤﺸـﺘﺮﻛﻮن ﻓﻲ‬.‫اﻟﻤﻄـﺎف ﻣﻮﻗـﻊ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺗﻞ ﻣﻘﺎﺑﻞ ﺣـﺮم اﻟﺠﺎﻣﻌﺔ اﻷردﻧﻴﺔ‬ ّ ً ً ّ ً ‫ﻣﻮﻗﻌﺎ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن ﻳﻘﻊ ﻣﺒﺎﺷـﺮة ﺑﺠﺎﻧﺐ اﻟﻤﻨﻄﻘﺔ‬،‫ وﻫﻮ ﺧﺮﺑﺔ ﺳـﻼﻣﺔ‬،‫أﺛﺮﻳﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﻤﻠﻴـﺔ أن‬ َ ّ ‫ﻣﺮﻛﺰ ﻷﻫﺪاف‬ َ .‫م‬١٩٨٦ ‫ﻣﻌﻴﻨـﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ ﺑُﻨـﻲ‬،‫وﻗـﻊ اﻻﺧﺘﻴـﺎر ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺘـﻲ‬ ٍ ّ ّ َ ُ ‫وﻫﻜﺬا ﻓﺈﻧﻲ أﻧﻈﺮ ﻣﻦ ﺷـﻘﺔ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﺮة إﻟﻰ اﻷﺳـﻔﻞ ﻷرى ﺑﻴﺖ ﻣﺰرﻋ ٍﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻌﺼﺮ‬ َ ُ ّ ّ ُ ّ ً ‫ﻤﺜ َﻞ‬ ‫ ﻟﻴ‬،‫اﻟﺘﺴـﻌﻴﻨﻴﺎت ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻌﺸﺮﻳﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﺒﻴﺰﻧﻄﻲ ﻛ ِﺸـﻒ ﻋﻨﻪ ﻓﻲ ﺑﺪاﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﺟﺰءا‬ ّ ّ ّ ُ ّ ‫اﻷﺛﺮي‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻮﻗﻊ‬ ‫ ﻻ ﻳﺰال ﻫﺬا‬.‫اﻷردﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﻴﺪاﻧﻴﺔ ﻟﻄﻼب اﻟﺠﺎﻣﻌﺔ‬ ‫آﺛﺎر‬ ٍ ‫ﻣﻦ ﻣﺪرﺳﺔ‬ َ ُ ُ ً ‫ُﻣ‬ ‫ ﺗﻤﻨﺤﻨﻲ اﻟﺼـﻮرة ﺑﺄﻛﻤﻠﻬﺎ‬.‫ﺑﺤﻘﻮل ﻣﺰروﻋـ ٍﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻘﻤﺢ‬ ‫ﺤﺎﻃـﺎ ﻣﻦ ﺛﻼﺛـﺔ ﺟﻮاﻧﺐ‬ ٍ ً ،‫ وأزﻫـﺎر اﻟﺮﺑﻴﻊ‬،‫ ﺛﻠﺞ اﻟﺸـﺘﺎء‬:‫ﺷـﻌﻮرا ﺑﺎﻟﻄﻤﺄﻧﻴﻨـﺔ واﻟﻬﺪوء ﻓـﻲ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ اﻟﻔﺼﻮل‬

ّ ‫ واﻟﺤﻘـﻮل اﻟﻤﺤﺮوﺛﺔ‬،‫وﺣﻘـﻮل اﻟﺤﺼﺎد اﻟﺒُﻨّ ّﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺼﻴﻒ‬ .‫ﻟﻠﺰرع ﻓﻲ اﻟﺨﺮﻳﻒ‬ َ َ ّ ّ ‫ﻏﺎﻟﺒًـﺎ ﻣـﺎ ﻳﻤﻸ‬ ‫ﻟﻠﺴـﻴﺪة وداد‬ ‫ ﻓﻲ إﺣﺪى زﻳﺎراﺗﻲ‬.‫اﻟﻤﺸـﻬﺪ ﻣـﻊ ﻗﻄﻌﺎﻧﻬﻢ‬ ‫اﻟﺮﻋﺎة‬

ُ ْ ْ ّ ّ ‫ وﻫﻲ ﻣﻦ ﻫﻮاة َﺟﻤ ِﻊ اﻷزﻳﺎء‬،‫ﻗﻌـﻮار‬ ‫ ﻗﺎﻟﺖ ﻟﻲ إن َﺟﻤ َﻊ‬،‫اﻟﻔﻠﺴـﻄﻴﻨﻴﺔ اﻟﻤﻌﺮوﻓﻴﻦ‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺤـﻆ‬ ُ ‫ ﻣﻨﺬ ذﻟـﻚ اﻟﺤﻴﻦ وأﻧﺎ‬.‫اﻟﻄﻴﺐ‬ ‫ﻳﺠﻠﺐ‬ ‫ﺑﻌـﺾ ﺳـﻴﻘﺎن اﻟﻘﻤـﺢ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺮﺑﻴـﻊ‬ ُ َ ّ ‫اﻟﺨ َﺰ‬ ّ ‫اﻟﺰ‬ ً ّ ‫ﺳـﻨﻮﻳﺎ ﺑﻌﺾ اﻟﺴـﻨﺎﺑﻞ إﻟﻰ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋ ِﺔ اﻟﻘﻤﺢ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻤﻸ‬ ،‫ﻓﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻫﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫أﺿﻴﻒ‬ ْ َ ُ ّ ٌ .‫ﻋﻦ اﻟﺒﻬﺠﺔ واﻟﺴـﻌﺎدة‬ ِ ‫واﻟﺘﻲ ﻧ ِﻘﺸـﺖ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ أﻗﻮال ﺗﻌﺒﺮ‬

ّ ّ ُ َ ‫ ﻫﻲ‬،‫ﻌﺪ ﻓﻲ ُﻋﻘﺮ دارﻧﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺗﻼع اﻟﻌﻠﻲ‬ َ ‫ﻣﻮاﻗﻊ‬ ‫أﺣ ُﺪ‬ ‫ واﻟﺘﻲ ﺗ‬،‫إن ﺧﺮﺑﺔ ﺳﻼﻣﺔ اﻟﻘﺮﻳﺒﺔ‬ ُّ ّ ‫ﻛﺜﻴﺮة ﻣﻨﺘﺸﺮة ﺑﻜﺜﺮة ﻓﻲ‬ ُ ‫ﻟﻜﻦ‬ ُ ‫ﻳﺼﻌ‬ ْ ُ ‫ ﺗﻤﺜﻞ ﻫﺬه اﻷﻣﺎﻛﻦ‬.‫اﻟﻌﺜﻮر ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺐ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ٍ ٍ ّ ّ ّ َ ‫ إن أﺷـﻬﺮﻫﺎ‬.‫آﻻف اﻟﺴـﻨﻴﻦ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺴـﻴﻄﺮة اﻟﺒﺸـﺮﻳﺔ ﻋﻠـﻰ ﻣﻨﻄﻘﺔ ﻋﻤـﺎن اﻟﻜﺒﺮى‬

ُ ُ ّ ّ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻳﻌـﻮد ﺗﺎرﻳﺦ ﻫﻴﻜﻞ ِﻫ َﺮﻗﻞ‬،‫ﺑﺎﻟﺘﺄﻛﻴـﺪ ﻫﻮ اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺮوﻣﺎﻧـﻲ إﻟﻰ أواﺧﺮ اﻟﻘﺮن‬ ُ َ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﺪﻋﻢ‬ ٍ ‫اﻷﻣﻴﺮﻛﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﺎﻟﻲ ﻣـﻦ اﻟﻮﺎﻛﻟﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﺸـﺮوع ﻟﻠﻤﺮﻛﺰ‬ ‫ وﻗﺪ أﻋﻴﺪ ﺗﺮﻣﻴﻤﻪ ﻓﻲ‬،‫اﻟﺜﺎﻧـﻲ‬ ٍ ّ ْ َ ً َ ‫ ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴﺒﺔ‬.‫ﻘﺼﺪا ﻟﻠﺰاﺋﺮﻳﻦ‬ ِ ‫ﻟﻺﻧﻤﺎء واﻟﺘﻌﺎون اﻟﺪو ّ ﻛﺠﺰ ٍء ﻣﻦ ﺟﻬﻮ ٍد ﻟﺠﻌﻞ اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ ﻣ‬ َ ّ ُ ّ ‫ﺷـﻤﺎل ﺷـﺮق‬ ُ ‫ اﻟﺬي‬،‫ﻌﺪ ﻣﻮﻗﻊ ﻋﻴﻦ ﻏﺰال اﻟﻀﺨﻢ‬ ،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ﻳﻘﻊ‬ ‫ ﻳ‬،‫إﻟـﻰ ﻋﻠﻤـﺎء اﻵﺛﺎر‬

ّ َْ ّ ّ ً ّ ‫ وﺗﻤﺘﺪ‬.‫اﻟﺤﺠﺮي اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺚ ﻓﻲ اﻷردن‬ ‫اﻷﻫﻤ ّﻴﺔ ﻟﻔﻬﻢ أواﺧﺮ اﻟﻌﺼﺮ‬ ‫ﻣﻮﻗﻌـﺎ ﻏﺎﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ‬

٢ ‫ ﺩﺍﺭﺓ ﺍﻟﻔﻨﻮﻥ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬

‫ﺑﺎرﺑﺮا ﭘﻮرﺗﺮ‬

tion levels span almost two thousand years beginning around 7200 B.C. The importance of this endangered site, divided by the Zarqa Highway, encroached upon by modern buildings, and vulnerable to the actions of man, cannot be overstated. Everyone who sees the plaster statues from Ain Ghazal, discovered in the 1980s and exhibited in the Jordan Archaeological Museum on the Citadel and the Jordan Museum in Ras Al Ain, cannot help but be amazed by them. They are indeed the earliest large-scale human representations, albeit very stylized, and technologically impressive too. In many places in Amman there are remains of Byzantine structures - like the farmhouse in front of ACOR - but there are also Roman mausolea tucked here and there, quarries for Roman columns left unﬁnished in the ground as well as a scattering of large Ammonite structures; these buildings are dated to the later Iron Age (eighth to ﬁfth century B.C.) and seem to have served as storage for agricultural products and in some cases had an industrial use (i.e., textile manufacturing); they also probably functioned occasionally as places for protection.

ّ ‫ﻫﻨﺎك ﻣﺴـﺘﻮﻳﺎت‬ ً ‫ ﻗﺒﻞ‬٧٢٠٠ ‫اﺑﺘﺪاء ﻣﻦ ﻋـﺎم‬ ،‫اﻟﺴـﻜﻨﻰ إﻟـﻰ ﻓﺘﺮة أﻟﻔﻲ ﺳـﻨﺔ ﺗﻘﺮﻳﺒًﺎ‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﻌﺮض ﻟﻼﻧﻘـﺮاض ﻫﻲ‬ ّ ‫إن‬ ّ ‫أﻫﻤ ّﻴﺔ ﻻ ﻳﻤﻜﻦ اﻟﺘﻌﺒﻴﺮ‬ ‫أﻫﻤ ّﻴﺔ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﻮﻗﻊ‬ .‫اﻟﻤﻴـﻼد‬

ّ َ ‫ وﻫﻮ‬،‫ وﻣﻊ ذﻟﻚ ﻓﺈن أﺗﻮﺳـﺘﺮاد اﻟﺰرﻗﺎء ﻳﻘﺴـﻤﻪ وﺗﻄﻐﻰ ﻋﻠﻴﻪ اﻷﺑﻨﻴﺔ اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺜﺔ‬،‫ﻋﻨﻬﺎ‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫ اﻟﺘﻲ‬،‫اﻟﺠﺼ ّﻴﺔ ﻓـﻲ ﻋﻴﻦ ﻏﺰال‬ ‫ وﻞﻛ َﻣـﻦ ﻳﺮى اﻟﺘﻤﺎﺛﻴﻞ‬.‫ِﻋﺮﺿـﺔ ﻟﺘﻌﺪﻳﺎت اﻹﻧﺴـﺎن‬ َ ُ ّ ّ ‫اﻷردﻧﻲ‬ ‫ واﻟﻤﻌﺮوﺿـﺔ ﻓﻲ ُﻣﺘﺤﻒ اﻵﺛﺎر‬،‫ﺛﻤﺎﻧﻴﻨﻴﺎت اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻤﺎﺿﻲ‬ ‫اﻛﺘ ِﺸـﻔﺖ ﻓﻲ‬ ّ ُ َ ّ َ ّ ‫ﻳﺸـﻌﺮ ﺑﺎﻟﺬﻫﻮل‬ ‫ﺴـﻌﻪ إﻻ أن‬ ‫ ﻻ ﻳ‬،‫اﻷردﻧـﻲ ﻓﻲ رأس اﻟﻌﻴﻦ‬ ‫واﻟﻤﺘﺤﻒ‬ ‫ﻓـﻲ اﻟﻘﻠﻌـﺔ‬ ِ ْ ّ ّ ُ ‫ وإن ﻛﺎن‬،‫ ﻓﻬﻲ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻮاﻗﻊ أﻗﺪم اﻷﺷـﻜﺎل اﻟﺒﺸﺮﻳﺔ اﻟﻜﺒﺮى‬.‫واﻟﺪﻫﺸـﺔ ﻋﻨﺪ رؤﻳﺘﻬﺎ‬ ً ّ ً ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺘ‬ .‫ﻘﻨﻴﺔ أﻳﻀﺎ‬ ‫وﻣﺜﻴﺮ ﻟﻺﻋﺠﺎب ﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﺎﺣﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺗﻘﻠﻴﺪي ﺟﺪا‬ ‫ﺑﺄﺳﻠﻮب‬ ‫ذﻟﻚ‬ ٍ ٍ

َ ّ ّ ‫ﺗﻮﺟ ُﺪ ﻓﻲ أﻣﺎﻛﻦ ﻛﺜﻴﺮة ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ ﻣﺜﻞ ﺑﻴﺖ اﻟﻤﺰرﻋﺔ اﻟﺬي‬-‫ﺑﻴﺰﻧﻄﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﺑﻘﺎﻳﺎ ﻫﻴﺎﻛﻞ‬ ٍ َ ٌّ ٌ ٌ ً َ ‫ﻟﻜﻦ‬ ُ ُ ْ ‫ﺣﺠﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫وﻣﻘﺎﻟﻊ‬ ،‫ﺗﻮﺟ ُﺪ أﻳﻀﺎ أﺿﺮﺣﺔ ُﻣﺘﻨﺎﺛـﺮة ﻫﻨﺎ وﻫﻨﺎك‬ -‫ﻳﻘـﻊ أﻣﺎم اﻟﻤﺮﻛﺰ‬ ً َ ّ ‫ﻋﻤ‬ ّ ‫ﻫﻴﺎﻛﻞ‬ ّ ‫ﻮﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫ إﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻧﺘﺸﺎر‬،‫روﻣﺎﻧﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻷرض ﻟﻢ ﻳﻨﺘ ِﻪ اﻟﻌﻤﻞ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻷﻋﻤﺪ ٍة‬ ُ ُ ّ ‫ وﻳﻌﻮد ﺗﺎرﻳﺦ ﻫﺬه اﻷﺑﻨﻴﺔ إﻟﻰ أواﺧﺮ اﻟﻌﺼـﺮ اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺪي )اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﺜﺎﻣﻦ إﻟﻰ‬.‫ﻛﺒﻴـﺮة‬ ّ ُ ّ ،‫زراﻋﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﻨﺘﺠﺎت‬ ‫ﺨﺪ َﻣﺖ ﻟﺘَﺨﺰﻳﻦ‬ ِ ‫ وﻳﺒﺪو أﻧﻬﺎ اﺳـﺘ‬،(‫اﻟﻘـﺮن اﻟﺨﺎﻣﺲ ﻗﺒﻞ اﻟﻤﻴﻼد‬ ٍ ٌ ّ ‫ وﺎﻛﻧﺖ‬،(‫ﺻﻨﺎﻋﻴﺔ )أي ﺗﺼﻨﻴﻊ اﻟﻨﺴﻴﺞ‬ ‫و ﺑﻌﺾ اﻟﺤﺎﻻت ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻟﻬﺎ اﺳـﺘﺨﺪاﻣﺎت‬ ّ َ ً ّ .‫ﺗﺆدي أﻳﻀﺎ دور أﻣﺎﻛﻦ ﻟﻠﺤﻤﺎﻳﺔ ﻛﻤﺎ ﻳُﺮﺟﺢ‬

My dream is to explore as many of the hidden ancient remains as possible. Some places have already disappeared, like Tell Siran, now under the University of Jordan campus. Thus from my apartment I face the location where this ancient mound once stood before being built over by the Faculty of Engineering. In 1972 the site was excavated, revealing strata from the Iron Age through the Mamluk period, but its most famous ﬁnd was a small bronze bottle dating to around 600 B.C. incised with an Ammonite inscription: May the produce of "Amminadab" king of the Ammonites the son of Hassal’il king of the Ammonites the son of "Amminadab" king of the Ammonites— the vineyard and the garden(s) and the hollow and cistern— cause rejoicing and gladness for many days (to come) and in years far oﬀ (From Walter E. Aufrecht, A Corpus of Ammonite Inscriptions) The sentiment expressed suits me given that I try to foster communal rejoicing and gladness on my balcony and also strongly believe in honoring people of the past - ancient and modern.

ُ ّ ُ ّ ّ .‫اﻟﻤﺨﻔﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻷﺛﺮﻳﺔ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﻤﻜﻦ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺒﻘﺎﻳﺎ‬ ‫إن ُﺣﻠﻤﻲ ﻫﻮ اﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎف أﻛﺒﺮ ﻋﺪ ٍد‬ ٍ ّ ‫ ﻣﺜﻞ ﺗﻞ ﺳـﻴﺮان اﻟـﺬي ﻳﻘﻊ اﻵن ﺗﺤﺖ ﺣﺮم‬،‫ﻗﺪ اﺧﺘﻔﺖ ﺑﺎﻟﻔﻌﻞ‬ ِ ‫ﺑﻌـﺾ اﻷﻣﺎﻛﻦ‬ ً ّ ُ ّ ُ ‫ﻣﻮاﺟﻬﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﻮﻗـﻊ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻛﺎن ﻫﺬا‬ ‫ وﻫﻜﺬا أﻧﻈﺮ ﻣﻦ ﺷـﻘﺘﻲ‬.‫اﻷردﻧﻴـﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺠﺎﻣﻌـﺔ‬ ِ ّّ ّ ُ ً ّ ‫اﻟﺘﻞ‬ ‫ ﺟﺮى‬،‫م‬١٩٧٢ ‫ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬.‫اﻟﺘﺮاﺑﻲ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻢ ﻗﺎﺋﻤﺎ ﻗﺒﻞ أن ﺗﺒﻨﻰ ﻓﻮﻗﻪ ﻛﻠﻴﺔ اﻟﻬﻨﺪﺳﺔ‬ ْ َ ّ ُ ّ ‫ﺻﺨﺮﻳ ٍﺔ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻃﺒﻘﺎت‬ ‫ وﻗﺪ أدى اﻟﺒﺤﺚ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻜﺸـﻒ ﻋﻦ‬،‫اﻟﺘﻨﻘﻴﺐ ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﻮﻗﻊ‬ ٍ ً ّ ّ ّ ّ َ ‫أﺷﻬﺮ ﻣﺎ ُو ِﺟﺪ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻛﺎن زﺟﺎﺟﺔ‬ ‫ ﻏﻴﺮ أن‬.‫اﻟﻤﻤﻠﻮﻛﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺪي وﺣﺘﻰ اﻟﻔﺘﺮة‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺼﺮ‬ ً ّ َ ُ ً ‫ وﻗﺪ ﻧ ِﻘﺸـﺖ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ‬،‫ ﻗﺒﻞ اﻟﻤﻴﻼد‬٦٠٠ ‫ﺑﺮوﻧﺰﻳـﺔ ﺻﻐﻴﺮة ﻳﻌـﻮد ﺗﺎرﻳﺨﻬﺎ إﻟﻰ ﻧﺤﻮ ﻋﺎم‬ ّ ‫اﻟﻌﻤ‬ ّ ‫ﻫﺬه اﻟﻌﺒﺎرات ﺑﺎﻟﻠّﻐﺔ‬ :‫ﻮﻧﻴﺔ‬ َ ّ ّ ُ ‫إﻧﺘﺎج أﻣﻴﻨﺎداب ﻣﻠﻚ اﻟﻌﻤﻮﻧﻴﻴﻦ‬ ‫’’أﺗﻤﻨﻰ أن ﻳﻜﻮن‬ ّ ‫اﺑﻦ ﻫﺎﺳﺎﻟﻴﻞ ﻣﻠﻚ اﻟﻌﻤﻮﻧﻴﻴﻦ‬ ّ -‫اﺑﻦ أﻣﻴﻨﺎداب ﻣﻠﻚ اﻟﻌﻤﻮﻧﻴﻴﻦ‬ -‫ﻛﺮم اﻟﻌﻨﺐ واﻟﺤﺪاﺋﻖ واﻟﻮادي وﺣﻮض اﻟﻤﻴﺎه‬ ‫ﺳﺒﺒًﺎ ﻟﻼﺑﺘﻬﺎج واﻟﻔﺮح‬

ّ ‫ﻷﻳّﺎمٍ ﻛﺜﻴﺮ ٍة )آﺗﻴﺔ( و‬ .‘‘‫ﺳﻨﻮات ﺑﻌﻴﺪ ٍة ﺟﺪا‬ ٍ ّ ‫اﻟﻌﻤ‬ ّ ‫)ﻣﻦ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ اﻟﻨﻘﻮش‬ (‫ أوﻓﺮﻳﺨﺖ‬.‫ ﺑﻘﻠﻢ واﻟﺘﺮ إي‬،‫ﻮﻧﻴﺔ‬ َُ ُ ّ ّ ً ُ ُ ّ ُ‫اﻟﻤﺸـﺎﻋﺮ اﻟﺘـﻲ ﻳ‬ َ ‫ﻧﻈﺮا ﻷﻧﻲ أﺣـﺎول أن أﻏ ّﻤ َﻲ‬ ،‫ﻌﺒـﺮ ﻋﻨﻬﺎ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻨﻘﺶ ﺗﻨﺎﺳـﺒُﻨﻲ‬ ‫إن‬ ً ً ً ‫ وأن أوﻣـﻦ إﻳﻤﺎﻧًﺎ‬،‫وﻓﺮﺣﺎ ﻣﺸـﺘَ َﺮ ًﺎﻛ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺷـﺮﻓﺘﻲ‬ ‫ﻗﻮﻳﺎ ﺑﺘﻜﺮﻳـﻢ اﻟﻨﺎس ﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﺑﺘﻬﺎﺟـﺎ‬ .‫ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻢ واﻟﺤﺪﻳﺚ‬-‫اﻟﻤﺎﺿﻲ‬

Sketch of Roman Theater Left: Three Greens Next page: Qasr Al Mushatta

‫ﺍﻟﺮﻭﻣﺎﻧﻲ‬ ّ ‫ﺳﻜﺘﺶ ﺍﻟﻤﺪ ّﺭﺝ‬ ُ :‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺨﻀﺮ ﺍﻟﺜﻼﺛﺔ‬ ‫ ﻗﺼﺮ ﺍﻟﻤﺸﺘّﻰ‬:‫ﻓﻲ ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

Adjacent to Amman’s International Airport is this ancient palace of Qasr Al Mushatta planned as the largest and grandest of the desert castles of the region by Caliph Walid II (in the 8thC millennia AD). Today its ruins are the subject of extensive reconstruction but the starred agamas are more than happy with the jumble of crevices in the rocks as their castles. This pretty lady with ﬁne markings of pregnancy on her back looked about to deliver her oﬀspring.

ّ ُ ُ ‫اﻟﻌﺘﻴﻖ ﺑﺎﻟﻘﺮب ﻣﻦ ﻣﻄﺎر‬ ‫ﻳﻘﻊ ﻗﺼﺮ اﻟﻤﺸﺘﻰ‬ َ َ ‫ وﻗﺪ ُﺻ ّﻤ َﻢ ﻟﻴﻜﻮن اﻟﻘﻠﻌﺔ‬، ّ ‫اﻟﻤﻠﻜﺔ ﻋﻠﻴﺎء اﻟﺪو‬ ّ َ ‫اﻷﺿﺨﻢ واﻷر ﻓﻲ ﻋﻬﺪ اﻟﺨﻠﻴﻔﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺼﺤﺮاوﻳﺔ‬

ّ .(‫اﻟﻤﻴﻼدي اﻟﺜﺎﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﻮﻟﻴﺪ اﻟﺜﺎﻧﻲ )ﻓﻲ اﻟﻘﺮن‬ ُ ّ ،‫ﻋﻤﻠﻴﺎت اﻟﺘﺮﻣﻴﻢ وإﻋﺎدة اﻟﺒﻨﺎء ﻟﻪ‬ ‫ﺣﺎﻟﻴًﺎ ﺗﺠﺮى‬ ٌ ‫وﻫﺬه اﻟﺤﺮﺑﺎء ﻏﺎﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﻌﺎدة ﺑﻬﺬه اﻟﻔﻮﺿﻰ‬ ّ ُ ّ .‫اﻟﺼﺨﺮﻳﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻳ َﻌﺪ ﻗﻠﻌﺘﻬﺎ‬ ‫واﻟﺸﻘﻮق‬ ّ َ ‫ﺗﻀﻊ‬ ‫وﻳﺒﺪو أن ﻫﺬه اﻟﺤﺮﺑﺎء اﻷﻧﻴﻘﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ وﺷﻚ أن‬ ٌ ْ َ ٌ َ ‫ﺧﻄﻮط رﻓﻴﻌﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻇﻬﺮﻫﺎ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻇﻬﺮت‬ ‫ وﻗﺪ‬،‫ﺻﻐﺎرﻫﺎ‬ ّ .‫ﺟﺮاء اﻟﺤﻤﻞ‬

ّ‫ﻋﻤﺎﻧﻴﺔ‬ ّ ‫ﻗُﺼﺎﺻﺎت‬

Nadia Dajani |

A Collage of Amman

My earliest recollections of Amman date back to the 1970s, from the yearly summer visits to my maternal grandmother. Hailing from the heart of West Africa, and comparing our home in Lagos, Nigeria, with that of my grandmother, I found the contrast could not have been more stark, both in the surrounding nature as well as the built environment. As a consequence, the particular details that struck me then, a child, still characterize the essence of what Amman is for me today. I remember being taken to see the site where my grandmother’s new home was to be built, in Shmeisani, just beyond where the Arab Bank is today. Surrounded by open land, we had to drive off the main tarmacked road that ended before we got to the intended plot, and I remember thinking that this was, undoubtedly, the furthermost point on earth. The house was built by our next visit. All around was open land, with the odd house and occasional tent with Bedouins tending their herds that grazed on the indigenous shrubs. My grandmother asked me to go the Bedouin lady on the adjacent land to purchase some cheese and offer some freshly baked pastries. Hesitant at first, I made the visit, walking across thorny thistles. I was taken aback by her different accent and way of life, and returned with scratches all over my ankles and knees. Not that I minded, as some thistles had hearts of lavender, some had golden hues, and I enjoyed seeking the different varieties. As the building activity grew, the newcomers created a community of residents, who had either known each other before, or were ‘welcomed’ with the traditional ‘mubaraka’ visit, where sweets were offered, an act initiating the neighbourly duties and obligations that followed, including the religious festivals and Eids and all that they entailed. Seeking directions was dominated by family names as there were no street names, and even today, I can identify the names of the residents in Shmeisani, most of whom I have never met. In contrast to the modern concrete buildings of Lagos, the Amman stone houses were the dominant feature and it was hard not to fall in love with the hue and texture of the local stone. I delighted in the dif-

Left: Architectural Traditions

ُ ّ ّ ‫ﺗﻌﻮد ذﻛﺮﻳﺎﺗﻲ اﻷو ﻋﻦ‬ ‫ﺳـﺒﻌﻴﻨﻴﺎت اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻤﺎﺿﻲ ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل زﻳﺎراﺗﻲ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن إﻟﻰ‬ ٌ ّ ّ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫ وأﻗﺎرن‬،‫اﻟﻐﺮﺑﻴﺔ‬ ‫ وﺣﻴﺚ إﻧﻲ ﻗﺎدﻣﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻗﻠﺐ أﻓﺮﻳﻘﻴﺎ‬.‫اﻟﺴﻨﻮﻳﺔ ﻟﺠﺪﺗﻲ ﻷﻣﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﺼﻴﻔﻴﺔ‬ ُ ّ ُ ّ ‫وﺟـﺪت أن اﻟﺘﺒﺎﻓ َﻦ‬ ‫ ﻓﻘﺪ‬،‫ﻣـﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ ﺑﻴﺘﻨﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻻﻏﻮس ﻋﺎﺻﻤـﺔ ﻧﻴﺠﻴﺮﻳﺎ وﺑﻴﺖ ﺟﺪﺗﻲ‬ ٌ ‫ ﺳـﻮاء ﻛﺎن ذﻟﻚ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﺔ اﻟﻤﺤﻴﻄﺔ أم ﻓﻲ‬،‫ﻧﺤﻮ ﻏﺎﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻮﺿﻮح‬ ٍ ‫ﺷـﺪﻳﺪ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ َ ّ ً َ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ اﻟﺘـﻲ أﺻﺎﺑﺘﻨﻲ ﺑﺎﻟﺤﻴﺮة‬ ‫ ﻓـﺈن اﻟﺘﻔﺎﺻﻴﻞ‬،‫ ﻧﺘﻴﺠﺔ ﻟﺬﻟﻚ‬.‫اﻟﻌﻤﺮاﻧﻴـﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺒﻴﺌـﺔ‬ ّ ّ ّ َ ّ ‫ﺣﻴﻨﻬﺎ ﻛﻄﻔﻠ ٍﺔ ﻻ ﺗﺰال ﺗﻤﻴﺰ ﺟﻮﻫﺮ ﻣﺎ ﻫﻲ ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﻴﻮم ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴﺒﺔ‬ .‫إﻟﻲ‬ ّ ُ ّ ُ َ ُ ‫ﺑﻴﺖ ﺟﺪﺗﻲ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻮﻗﻊ اﻟﺬي ﻛﺎن ﺳﻴُﺒﻨﻰ ﻋﻠﻴﻪ‬ ‫ذﻫﺒﺖ ﻟﻜﻲ أرى‬ ‫أذﻛﺮ أﻧﻲ‬ ّ ً ُ ‫ﺑﺄرض‬ ٍ ‫ وﻷﻧﻪ ﻛﺎن ﻣﺤﺎﻃﺎ‬.‫اﻟﺸﻤﻴﺴـﺎﻧﻲ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺴـﺎﻓ ٍﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻣﻮﻗﻊ اﻟﺒﻨﻚ اﻟﻌﺮ ّ اﻟﻴﻮم‬ َ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﻌﺒﺪ اﻟﺬي‬ ‫اﻟﺮﺋﻴﺴـﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﻴﺎرة ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻄﺮﻳﻖ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن ﻋﻠﻴﻨﺎ أن ﻧﻘﻮد‬،‫ﺧﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﻣﻔﺘﻮﺣﺔ‬ ّ ّ ّ ُ ُ ‫ﻓﻜ‬ ‫وأذﻛﺮ أﻧﻲ‬ ،‫اﻧﺘﻬـﻰ ﻗﺒﻞ وﺻﻮﻟﻨﺎ إﻟﻰ ﻗﻄﻌﺔ اﻷرض اﻟﻤﻘﺼﻮدة‬ ‫ﺮت ﻓﻲ أﻧﻬﺎ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬ ّ .‫دون ﺷﻚ أﺑﻌﺪ ﻧﻘﻄ ٍﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻷرض‬ ّ ً ُ ‫ﻛﺎن‬ ،‫ وﺎﻛن ﻛﻞ ﻣﺎ ﺣﻮﻟﻪ أرﺿﺎ ﺧﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬.‫ﻗﺪ اﻧﺘﻬﻰ ﺑﺤﻠﻮل زﻳﺎرﺗﻨﺎ اﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬ ِ ‫ﺑﻨﺎء اﻟﺒﻴﺖ‬ ّ ّ ُ ‫ واﻟﺨﻴﻤﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬،‫اﻟﺒﻴﺖ اﻟﻐﺮﻳﺐ ﻋﻦ ﻛﻞ ﻣﺎ ﺣﻮﻟﻪ‬ ‫وﻟﻢ ﻳﻜﻦ ﻫﻨﺎك إﻻ ﻫﺬا‬ ُ َ ‫اﻟﺒﺪو‬ َ ُ ُ ‫ﺗﻘﺘﺎت ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫ﻳﺮﻋﻮن ﻗﻄﻌﺎﻧﻬﻢ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬ ‫ﺣﻴﻦ وآﺧﺮ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻛﺎن‬ ٍ ‫ﺗﻨﺼﺐ ﺑﻴﻦ‬ ّ ّ ّ ْ َ ‫اﻟﺸ‬ ّ َ ‫اﻟﺒﺪوﻳﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻷرض‬ ‫أذﻫﺐ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﺮأة‬ ‫ ﻃﻠﺒَﺖ ﻣﻨﻲ ﺟﺪﺗﻲ أن‬.‫ﺠﻴﺮات اﻟﺒﻠﺪﻳّﺔ‬ ّ ّ ُ ‫ﺗﺮد‬ ّ ُ ‫اﻟﻤﺠﺎورة ﻟﺸﺮاء ﺑﻌﺾ‬ ‫دت‬ .‫اﻟﻤﻌﺠﻨﺎت اﻟﻄﺎزﺟﺔ‬ ‫ وأن أﻗﺪم إﻟﻴﻬﺎ ﺑﻌﺾ‬،‫اﻟﺠﺒﻦ‬

ّ ُ ‫ﻟﻜﻨﻲ زرﺗُﻬﺎ ﺑﻌﺪﻣﺎ ﺳ‬ ّ ُ ‫ﻓﻮﺟﺌﺖ ﺑﻠﻬﺠﺘﻬﺎ‬ ‫ وﻗﺪ‬.‫اﻟﺸﻮﻛﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺮت ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﻨﺒﺎﺗﺎت‬ ،‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﺒﺪاﻳﺔ‬ ِ َ ّ ُ َ ّ ّ ‫ ﻟﻴﺲ أن ﻫﺬا‬.‫ﺧﺪوش ﻋﻠﻰ ﻛﺎﺣﻠﻲ ورﻛﺒﺘﻲ‬ ‫ وﻋﺪت ﻣﻊ‬،‫وﻃﺮﻳﻘﺔ ﺣﻴﺎﺗﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺨﺘﻠﻔﺔ‬ ٍ ّ َ ‫ وﻋﻠﻰ‬،‫اﻷﻣﺮ أزﻋﺠﻨﻲ؛ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻛﺎن ﻋﻠﻰ ﺑﻌﺾ اﻟﻨﺒﺎﺗﺎت اﻟﺸﻮﻛﻴﺔ ﻗﻠﻮب ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﺰاﻣﻰ‬ ّ ٌ ُّ ُ ُ ‫وﻛﻨﺖ‬ ،‫ذﻫﺒﻴﺔ اﻟﻠﻮن‬ ‫ﺑﻌﻀﻬﺎ أﺷﻜﺎل‬ .‫أﺳﺘﻤﺘﻊ ﺑﺎﻟﺒﺤﺚ ﻋﻦ ﻫﺬه اﻷﻧﻮاع اﻟﻤﺨﺘﻠﻔﺔ‬ ُ َ ُ ّ ً ّ ،‫ﺗﺘﻘﺪم‬ َ ‫أﺳ‬ ‫ﻣﺠﺘﻤﻌﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻘﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﺠـﺪد‬ ‫ـﺲ اﻟﻘﺎدﻣﻮن‬ ‫ﺑﻴﻨﻤـﺎ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ أﻋﻤﺎل اﻟﺒﻨﺎء‬ ً ّ ّ ً ّ ُ ‫إﻣﺎ ﻳﻌﺮﻓﻮن‬ ‫ وإﻣﺎ ﻳﺠﺮي اﻟﺘﺮﺣﻴﺐ ﺑﻬﻢ ﺑﺎﻟﻌﺒﺎرة‬،‫ﺑﻌﻀﻬﻢ ﺑﻌﻀﺎ ﺳـﺎﺑﻘﺎ‬ ،‫اﻟﺬﻳـﻦ ﻛﺎﻧﻮا‬ ْ ُ ّ ُ ٌ ّ ُ ُ َ َ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻛﺎﻧـﺖ ﺗﻘـﺪم اﻟﺤﻠﻮﻳﺎت ﻛﺒـﺎدر ٍة ﻟﻠﺘﻌﺮﻳﻒ‬،‘‘‫ ’’زﻳـﺎرة ﻣﺒﺎرﻛـﺔ‬:‫اﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪﻳّـﺔ‬ ُ ّ ُ َ‫ﺑﻮاﺟﺒﺎت اﻟﺠﻮار واﻻﻟﺘﺰاﻣﺎت اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺴﺘ‬ ‫اﻟﺪﻳﻨﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻻﺣﺘﻔﺎﻻت‬ ‫ ﺑﻤﺎ ﻓﻲ ذﻟﻚ‬،‫ﺘﺒﻊ ذﻟﻚ‬ ِ ّ ُ ْ ّ ُ ٌ ‫ ﻓﻘﺪ‬،‫ وإذ ﻟﻢ ﺗﻜﻦ ﻫﻨﺎك أﺳـﻤﺎء ﻟﻠﺸـﻮارع‬.‫واﻷﻋﻴـﺎد وﻞﻛ ﻣـﺎ ﻳﺘﺮﺗـﺐ ﻋﻠﻰ ذﻟـﻚ‬ ّ ْ َ ُ ‫ وإﻟﻰ‬.‫أﺳـﻤﺎء اﻟﻌﺎﺋﻼت ﻫﻲ اﻟﺴـﺒﻴﻞ اﻟﻮﺣﻴﺪ ﻟﻤﻌﺮﻓﺔ اﻻﺗﺠﺎﻫﺎت واﻟﻌﻨﺎوﻳﻦ‬ ‫ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬ ّ َ ّ ُ َ ‫ﻳﺴـﺒ ْﻖ‬ ‫أﺳـﻤﺎء اﻟﻤﻘﻴﻤﻴﻦ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺸﻤﻴﺴـﺎﻧﻲ ﻣﻊ أﻧﻪ ﻟﻢ‬ ‫أﺳـﺘﻄﻴﻊ أن أﺣﺪد‬ ،‫ﻫـﺬا اﻟﻴﻮم‬ ِ ْ ّ ّ َ ُ ،‫ وﻋﻠـﻰ اﻟﻨﻘﻴﺾ ﻣﻦ ﻣﺒﺎﻧﻲ ﻻﻏﻮس اﻟﺨﺮﺳـﺎﻧﻴﺔ اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺜﺔ‬.‫ﻟـﻲ أن ﻗﺎﺑَﻠـﺖ ﻣﻌﻈﻤﻬﻢ‬ َ ّ ّ َ ّ ُ ّ ‫ﺑﻴﻮت‬ ُ ‫اﻟﻤﺮء ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ وﺎﻛن ﻣﻦ اﻟﺼﻌـﺐ أﻻ ﻳﻘ َﻊ‬،‫اﻟﺴـﻤﺔ اﻟﻐﺎﻟﺒﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﺤﺠﺮﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﻛﺎﻧـﺖ‬

‫ ﺗﻘﺎﻟﻴﺪ ﻣﻌﻤﺎﺭﻳّﺔ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬

‫ﻧﺎدﻳﺎ ا ﺟﺎ‬

ferent permutations and combinations of the stone, the terrazzo tiles and wrought-iron work, as each new house was built. There was a homogeneity of scale and similarity between one house and the next. Occasionally, an architect’s hand would be sought and the villa would stand out with its sleek lines and design. This sparked my interest in the built environment as I imagined what I would design, and how I would do things differently; a precursor to my architectural education, perhaps. It was fascinating to watch the houses being constructed, with stonemasons chiseling the traditional tubzeh cut stone, which I still love touching, or the barrel cut stone, and it was exciting to observe pink as well as black volcanic stone being introduced as accents in the facades. Interior floorings of local terrazzo tiles of different colours and combinations were typical of these homes, and I would stare intently at the mosaic patterns created by the sliced pebbles that made each tile unique. Balconies were a vital part of the architecture of the residences, and were located at the front of the houses. The traditional early evening walk around the neighbourhood would include salutations by name to the families socializing as they enjoyed the evening air, scented by jasmine which dominated most front gardens. Bougainvillea in deep reds, purples, yellows and

Jacaranda Right: Welcome

ّ ُ ُ .‫ﺣﺐ أﻟـﻮان اﻟﺤﺠﺎرة اﻟﻤﺤﻠّ ّﻴﺔ وﻣﻠﻤﺴـﻬﺎ‬ ‫أﺳـﺘﻤﺘﻊ ﺑﻄـﺮق ﺗﺮﺗﻴﺐ اﻟﺤﺠﺎرة‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ‬ ً ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺮﺧﺎﻣﻲ واﻟﺤﺪﻳـﺪ اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻊ ﺑﻄﺮﻳﻘـ ٍﺔ دﻗﻴﻘﺔ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ وﺑﺎﻟﺒـﻼط‬،‫وﺗﺒﺎدﻳﻠﻬـﺎ اﻟﻤﺨﺘﻠﻔـﺔ‬ ّ ّ‫ ﻛﺎن ﻫﻨـﺎك ﺗﺠﺎﻧ ُ ٌﺲ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻘﺎﻳﻴﺲ وﺗَﺸـﺎﺑُﻪ ﻣﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ أي‬.‫ﻛﻞ ﺑﻴﺖ ﺟﺪﻳﺪ‬ ‫أﺛﻨـﺎء ﺑﻨـﺎء‬ ٍ َ ُ َ ّ ‫ﻣﻬﻨـﺪس ﻣﻌﻤﺎري أن‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن ﻳﻄﻠﺐ ﻣﻦ‬،‫ﺣﻴـﻦ وآﺧﺮ‬ ‫ ﺑﻴﻦ‬.‫ﺑﻴـﺖ واﻟﺒﻴـﺖ اﻟﺬي ﻳﻠﻴﻪ‬ ٍ ٍ ٍ َ ّ ُ َ‫ وﻫﺬا ﻣﺎ أﺛﺎر‬.‫اﻟﺪارة ﺑﺨﻄﻮﻃﻬﺎ اﻷﻧﻴﻘﺔ وﺗﺼﻤﻴﻤﻬﺎ اﻟﺮاﻗﻲ‬ ‫ﻳﻤﺪ ﻳﺪ اﻟﻤﺴـﺎﻋﺪة ﻓﺘﺒﺮز‬ ُّ ُ ّ ّ ّ ُ ‫ وﻛﻴﻒ ﺳـﺄﻧﻔﺬ‬،‫اﻟﺒﻨﺎﺋﻴﺔ ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻛﻨﺖ أﺗﺨﻴﻞ ﻣﺎ ﻳﻤﻜﻦ أن أﺻﻤﻤﻪ‬ ‫اﻫﺘﻤﺎﻣـﻲ ﺑﺎﻟﺒﻴﺌﺔ‬ َ ّ ّ َ ً .‫ﺑﺸﻜﻞ ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻒ؛ رﺑﻤﺎ ﻛﺎن ﻫﺬا ﺑﺸﻴﺮا ﺑﺪراﺳﺘﻲ اﻟﻬﻨﺪﺳﺔ اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎرﻳﺔ‬ ‫اﻷﻣﻮر‬ ٍ ُ ّ ُ َ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻛﺎن اﻟﺒﻨـﺎؤون ﻳﻘﻄﻌﻮن ﺣﺠﺎرة‬،‫ﻛﺎن ﻣـﻦ اﻟﺮاﺋﻊ ﻣﺮاﻗﺒـﺔ اﻟﺒﻴﻮت وﻫﻲ ﺗﺒﻨﻰ‬ ّ ّ ّ َ ‫ وﻛﻨﺖ‬،‫اﻹﺳـﻄﻮاﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫أو اﻟﺤﺠﺎرة‬ ِ ،‫اﻟﻄﺒـﺰي اﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪﻳـﺔ اﻟﺘـﻲ ﻻ أزال أﺣﺐ ﻟﻤﺴـﻬﺎ‬ ً ّ َ ّ ‫اﻟﺒﺮﺎﻛﻧﻲ اﻷﺳﻮد وﻫﻤﺎ ﻳﻮﺿﻌﺎن ﻹﺑﺮاز‬ ‫ﻣﺘﺤﻤﺴـﺔ ﻟﻤﺮاﻗﺒﺔ اﻟﺤﺠﺎرة اﻟﻮردﻳّﺔ واﻟﺤﺠﺮ‬ ّ ُّ َ ُ ‫اﻷرﺿﻴ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﺄﻟﻮان‬ ‫اﻟﺮﺧﺎﻣﻲ اﻟﻤﺤﻠ ّﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﺪاﺧﻠﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺒﻼط‬ ‫ﺎت‬ ‫ﺖ‬ ِ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧ‬.‫واﺟﻬﺎت اﻟﻤﺒﺎﻧﻲ‬ ٍ ُ ّ ّ ّ ً ‫ﻣﺘﻌﺪدة‬ ‫ﺗﺮﺗﻴـﺐ‬ ‫وﺑﻄـﺮق‬ ‫ وﻛﻨﺖ أﺣﺪق ﺑﺸـﺪة ﻓﻲ‬،‫أﻣـﺮا ﻧﻤﻮذﺟﻴًﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻫـﺬه اﻟﺒﻴﻮت‬ ٍ ً ّ ّ ُ ‫ﻧﻤﺎذج اﻟﻔﺴﻴﻔﺴـﺎء اﻟﺘﻲ ﺻﻨﻌﺖ ﻣـﻦ اﻟﺤﺼﻰ اﻟﻤﻘﻄﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻤﺎ ﺟﻌﻞ ﻣﻦ ﻛﻞ ﺑﻼﻃﺔ‬ ً ً .‫ﻗﻄﻌﺔ ﻓﺮﻳﺪة ﻣﻦ ﻧﻮﻋﻬﺎ‬ َ ْ َ ُ ً ّ ً ‫ وﺎﻛﻧﺖ‬،‫اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎري ﻟﻬﺬه اﻟﻤﺴـﺎﻛﻦ‬ ‫ﺣﻴﻮﻳﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴـﻢ‬ ‫ﺟـﺰءا‬ ‫اﻟﺸـﺮﻓﺎت‬ ‫ﺖ‬ ِ ‫ﻛﺎﻧ‬ َ ّ ّ ‫ ﻟﻘﺪ‬.‫اﻷﻣﺎﻣﻴﺔ ﻟﻠﺒﻴـﻮت‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺘﺠـﻮل ﻓﻲ ﺑﺪاﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﺗﻀﻤ َﻦ‬ ‫ﺗﻠـﻚ اﻟﺸـﺮﻓﺎت ﺗﺤﺘﻞ اﻟﻮاﺟﻬـﺔ‬ ُ ّ ّ َ ‫اﻟﺘﺤﻴﺎت ﺑﺎﻻﺳـﻢ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻷ َﺳـﺮ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺸﺎرك‬ ‫إﻟﻘﺎء‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﻜﻨﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺴـﺎء ﺣﻮل اﻷﺣﻴﺎء‬ َ َ ّ ‫ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻨﺸـﺎط‬ ‫اﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﻲ ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻛﺎﻧﻮا ﻳﺴـﺘﻤﺘﻌﻮن ﺑﻨﺴـﻴﻢ اﻟﻤﺴـﺎء اﻟﺬي ﺗﻔﻮح‬

‫ﺍﻟﺠﺎﻛﺮﻧﺪﺍ‬ ً ً :‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﻭﺳﻬﻼ‬ ‫ﺃﻫﻼ‬

‫‪94‬‬

‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫اﻷﻣﺎﻣﻴﺔ‪ .‬ﻳﻨﻤﻮ‬ ‫ﻬﻴﻤـﻦ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻌﻈﻢ اﻟﺤﺪاﺋـﻖ‬ ‫ﻋﻨﺼﺮ ُﻣ‬ ‫ﻣﻨـﻪ راﺋﺤﺔ اﻟﻴﺎﺳـﻤﻴﻦ‪ ،‬وﻫﻮ‬ ‫ْ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻧﺒﺎت اﻟﺒﻮﻏﻴﻨﻔﻴﻠﻴﺎ )اﻟﻤﻌﺮوف ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﻌﺎﻣﺔ ﺑﺎﺳﻢ ”اﻟﻤﺠﻨﻮﻧﺔ“( ﺑﺄﻟﻮان اﻷﺣﻤﺮ اﻟﻘﺎﺗﻢ‬ ‫ًّ‬ ‫ُ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺎت ﻣﻦ‬ ‫واﻷرﺟﻮاﻧﻲ واﻷﺻﻔﺮ واﻷﺑﻴﺾ ﺑﺴـﺮﻋ ٍﺔ ﻣﺘﺴﻠﻘﺎ اﻟﺠﺪران‪ ،‬ﻣﻤﺎ ﻳﻀﻴﻒ رﺷ ٍ‬ ‫َ ْ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫زﻫﻮر أﻧﻒ اﻟﻌﺠﻞ‬ ‫اﻷﻣﺎﻣﻴﺔ‬ ‫وازدﻫﺮت ﻓﻲ اﻟﺤﺪاﺋﻖ‬ ‫اﻷﻟﻮان إﻟﻰ واﺟﻬـﺎت اﻟﺒﻴﻮت‪.‬‬ ‫َ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ذات اﻷﻟـﻮان اﻟﺰاﻫﻴﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺎن اﻟﻤﻘﻴﻤﻮن ﻳﺮﻋﻮﻧﻬﺎ ﺑﻤﺤﺒ ٍﺔ وﻋﻨﺎﻳﺔ ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻳﺘﻨﺎﻓﺴـﻮن‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻟﻠﺘﻔﻮق ﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﻴﺮاﻧﻬﻢ ﺑﻤﻬﺎراﺗﻬﻢ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺒَﺴـﺘﻨﺔ‪ .‬ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺟﺪران اﻟﺤﺪاﺋﻖ ﻣﻨﺨﻔﻀﺔ‪،‬‬ ‫ًّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺸـﺒﻚ اﻟﺬي ﻛﺎن ﻳﻌﻠﻮه‬ ‫ﻣﺮﺋﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺪ‬ ‫اﻟﺨﻀﺮاء‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺮوج‬ ‫ﺖ‬ ‫ﻟﺬا ﻛﺎﻧ ِ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫َ ْ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ﻧﻤـﺎذج اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﺜﻴﺮة‬ ‫زﻫﻮر ﻣﺘﺴـﻠﻘﺔ أﺧـﺮى‪ .‬ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬ ‫اﻟﻴﺎﺳـﻤﻴﻦ وﻳﻨﻤـﻮ ﻋﻠﻴﻪ ﻣﻊ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺗﻤﺜﻞ أزﻫﺎراً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻟﻼﻫﺘﻤﺎم ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴـﺒﺔ ّ‬ ‫ﺑﺄﺷـﻜﺎل ﻧﺒﺎﺗﻴـﺔ‬ ‫إﻟﻲ‪ ...‬ﺷـﻜﻞ ﻫﻨﺪﺳـﻲ ﻫﻨﺎ وآﺧﺮ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ ّ‬ ‫ﻟـﻮن ﻛﺎن ﻣﻦ اﻷﺧﻀـﺮ اﻟﻔﺎﺗﺢ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺒُﻨ ّﻲ اﻟﻤﺎﺋـﻞ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺤﻤﺮة‪،‬‬ ‫ﻫﻨـﺎك‪،‬‬ ‫ﻣﻄﻠﻲ ﺑﺄي ٍ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أو اﻷزرق‪.‬‬ ‫أو اﻟﻔﻀﻲ ِ‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ ْ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫أﺷﺠﺎر اﻷﺳﻜﺪﻳﻨﻴﺎ واﻟﺘﻔﺎح واﻟﺠﺎرﻧﻚ ﻣﻜﺎن‬ ‫ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴﺒﺔ إﻟﻰ أﺷﻬﺮ اﻟﺼﻴﻒ‪ ،‬أﺧﺬت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫واﻟـﺪراق اﻟﺬي‬ ‫اﻟﻴﻮﻣﻴـﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻟﺪﻳﻨﺎ‪ ،‬وﻛﺬﻟﻚ اﻟﻤﺸـﻤﺶ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺎﻧﺠـﻮ واﻟﭙﺎﭘﺎﻳـﺎ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫اﻟﻜﺜﻴﺮ ﻣﻨﻪ ﻳُﺰرع ﻓﻲ ﺣﺪاﺋﻖ اﻟﺪارات‪ ،‬ﺑﺎﻹﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ أﺷـﺠﺎر اﻟﻠﻴﻤﻮن واﻟﺘﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﻛﺎن‬ ‫َ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫اﻻﻋﺘﻴﺎدﻳﺔ‪ .‬وﻻ أﻧﺴـﻰ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﺄﻛﻴﺪ ﻛﺮﻣﺔ اﻟﻌﻨﺐ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﻨﺎ ﻧﻘﻄﻊ أوراﻗﻬﺎ ﻟﻮﺟﺒﺔ ’’ورق‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺸﻬﻴﺔ‘‘‪.‬‬ ‫اﻟﺪواﻟﻲ‬

‫ُ ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﻐﻴﻴـﺮ ﻫـﻮ ٌ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ﻣﻔـﺮ ﻣﻨﻪ‪،‬‬ ‫أﻣﺮ ﻻ‬ ‫وأدرك أن‬ ‫أﻛﺘـﺐ ﻫـﺬا‪،‬‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻨﻴـﻦ ﻋﻨﺪﻣـﺎ‬ ‫ﻳﺮاودﻧـﻲ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫رؤﻳﺔ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺮﻣـﻮز واﻟﻌﻨﺎﺻﺮ اﻟﻤﺤﻠّ ّﻴـﺔ ﺗُ َ‬ ‫ﻄﺮ ُح ﺟﺎﻧﺒًﺎ‬ ‫ﻟﻜـﻦ ﻣـﺎ ﻳﻮﻫﻦ اﻟﻌﺰﻳﻤﺔ ﻫـﻮ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫َ ٌ‬ ‫ُ َ‬ ‫ﻌﺎرة ﻣﻦ ﺛﻘﺎﻓﺎت أﺧﺮى‪ ،‬و اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﻧﻔﺴﻪ ﻳُ ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫اﻟﻨﺴﻴﺞ‬ ‫ﺤﻄﻢ‬ ‫ﻣﻼﻣﺢ ﻣﺴﺘ‬ ‫وﺗﺴﺘﺒﺪل ﺑﻬﺎ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋـﻲ اﻟـﺬي ﻛﺎن ﻣﻮﺟـﻮدا ﻓﻲ ﻣﺎ ﻣﻀﻰ‪ .‬ﻏﻴـﺮ أن رؤﻳﺔ ﻫـﺬه اﻟﻌﻨﺎﺻﺮ ﻏﻴﺮ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫اﻻﻋﺘﻴﺎدﻳّﺔ ﻻ ﻳﺰال ﻳﺜﻴﺮ ذﻛﺮى ﻣﺎ أﺣﺴﺒﻪ ﺟﻮﻫﺮ ﻋﻤﺎن ﺑﺴﺤﺮﻫﺎ وإﻏﺮاﺋﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﻠﻤﻮس‬

‫‪white would climb up, adding a splash of colour to the facades.‬‬ ‫‪Flower beds of brightly coloured antirrhinum flourished in the‬‬ ‫‪front gardens which the residents tended with love and care, as‬‬ ‫‪they vied to outdo their neighbours with their gardening skills.‬‬ ‫‪Garden walls were low, so front lawns were visible beyond‬‬ ‫‪the wrought-iron grilles over which the jasmine and other‬‬ ‫‪climbing flowers grew. The patterns of the metalwork were in‬‬‫‪triguing to me … a geometric pattern here, a floral one there,‬‬ ‫‪painted any colour from light green, to rust, to silver or to blue.‬‬ ‫‪For the summer months, askedenias, apples and janerek re‬‬‫‪placed our daily mangoes and papayas, as did apricots and‬‬ ‫‪peaches, many of which were grown in the gardens of the‬‬ ‫‪villas, as well as the customary lemon and fig trees. Not forget‬‬‫‪ting of course the grape vines, whose leaves we would cut for‬‬ ‫‪the traditional ‘warak’ delicacy.‬‬ ‫‪Nostalgia comes into play when I write this, and I realize that‬‬ ‫‪change is inevitable, but it is disheartening to see these local‬‬ ‫‪icons and elements being cast aside and replaced by features‬‬ ‫‪borrowed from other cultures, at the same time breaking‬‬ ‫‪down the social fabric that once existed. Yet, seeing these oc‬‬‫‪casional elements still triggers the memory of what I consider‬‬ ‫‪the essence of Amman, with both its tangible as well as intan‬‬‫‪gible charm and allure.‬‬

‫ّ‬ ‫وﻏﻴﺮ اﻟﻤﻠﻤﻮس ﻋﻠﻰ ﺣﺪ ﺳﻮاء‪.‬‬

‫ﻧﺒﺎﺕ ﺍﻟﺒﻮﻏﻴﻨﻔﻴﻠﻴﺎ )ﺍﻟﻤﺠﻨﻮﻧﺔ(‬ ‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‪ :‬ﺑﺎﻗﺔ ﺯﻫﻮﺭ ﺻﻴﻔﻴّﺔ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‪ :‬ﺍﻟﻘﺪﻳﻢ ﻭﺍﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪ‬

‫‪Bougainvillea‬‬ ‫‪Right: Summer Bouquet‬‬ ‫‪Next page: The Old and the New‬‬

ّ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻲﻫ ﻗﺮﺼي‬

Hazem Malhass |

Amman is My Palace

“Memory is the treasury and guardian of all things”. A friend quoted this to me from Cicero, adding, “something akin to a palace where the past resides”.

ُ َ ُ ّ ٌ ‫ﺻﺪﻳـﻖ ﻟﻲ ﻫﺬه‬ ‫ ﻧﻘﻞ‬.‘‘‫واﻟﻮﺻﻴﺔ ﻋﻠـﻰ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ اﻷﺷـﻴﺎء‬ ‫’’اﻟﺬاﻛـﺮة ﻫـﻲ اﻟﺨﺰﻧـﺔ‬ ً َ ً ٌ َ ٌ ‫’’ﺷـﻲء ﻣﺸـﺎﺑِﻪ‬ ،‫اﻟﻌﺒـﺎرة ﻣﺴﺘﺸـﻬﺪا ﺑﻘﻮل ﺷﻴﺸـﻴﺮون ﻣﻀﻴﻔﺎ‬ ‫ﻟﻘﺼـﺮ ﻣﺎ ﺣﻴﺚ‬ ٍ .‘‘‫ﻳﺴـﻜﻦ اﻟﻤﺎﺿﻲ‬

Amman is my palace: old Amman with it stone buildings lining the downtown streets and its large public buildings that exude charm; newer Amman, and the beautiful residential areas from Marka in the east to Jabal Amman, Jabal Weibdeh and Jabal Hussein to the west….a city surrounded by lush valleys with running streams, fruit trees, hills and plains covered with wheat, grains and vegetables.

ّ :‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻫﻲ ﻗﺼﺮي‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺤﺠﺮﻳﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﺎﻧﺒَﻲ ﺷﻮارع وﺳﻂ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤﺔ ﺑﺄﺑﻨﻴَﺘﻬﺎ‬ َ ّ ّ ‫وﺟﺎذﺑﻴﺔ؛‬ ّ ً ‫ﺳﺤﺮا‬ ‫ وﻣﺒﺎﻧﻴﻬﺎ اﻟﻌﺎﻣﺔ اﻟﻜﺒﻴﺮة اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻨﻀ ُﺢ‬،‫اﻟﺒﻠﺪ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة واﻷﺣﻴﺎء‬ ّ ّ ‫ﺗﻤﺘﺪ ﻣﻦ ﻣﺎرﺎﻛ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺸﺮق إﻟﻰ ﺟﺒﻞ‬ ّ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن وﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒﺪة‬ ‫اﻟﺴﻜﻨﻴﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻠﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ُ ٌ ‫ وﺟﺪاول اﻟﻤﻴﺎه‬،‫ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﺗﺤﻴﻂ ﺑﻬﺎ اﻟﻮدﻳﺎن اﻟﺨﺼﺒﺔ‬...‫وﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﺤﺴﻴﻦ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻐﺮب‬ ّ َ ُ ّ ‫ وأﺷﺠﺎر اﻟﻔﺎﻛﻬﺔ واﻟﺘﻼل واﻟﺴﻬﻮل‬،‫اﻟﻤﺘﺪﻓﻘﺔ‬ .‫اﻟﻤﻐﻄﺎة ﺑﺎﻟﻘﻤﺢ واﻟﺤﺒﻮب واﻟﺨﻀﺮ‬

Amman’s weather ranges from moderate winters, with occasional snow, through spectacular springs, to warm summers when its special location, nestled on hills, bordering the desert and at 800-1200 meters above sea level, gives us cool evenings and nights with the scent of jasmine in the air.

ّ ‫ﺟـﻮ‬ ّ ‫ﻳﺘـﺮاو ُح‬ َ ‫ إﻟﻰ‬،‫ ﻣﻊ ﺳـﻘﻮط اﻟﺜﻠﺞ ﻓﻲ ﺑﻌـﺾ اﻷﺣﻴﺎن‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻣﻦ ﺷـﺘﺎ ٍء ﻣﻌﺘـﺪل‬ ً ّ ‫ ُﻣﺴـﺘَﻜﻴﻨﺔ‬-‫ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻳﻤﻨﺤﻬﺎ ﻣﻮﻗﻌﻬﺎ اﻟﺨﺎص‬،‫ﺻﻴﻒ داﻓﺊ‬ ‫رﺑﻴـﻊ‬ ٍ ‫ إﻟﻰ‬،‫ﺟﻤﻴﻞ ﻣﺬﻫﻞ‬ ٍ ٍ -‫م ﻓﻮق ﺳـﻄﺢ اﻟﺒﺤﺮ‬١٢٠٠–٨٠٠ ‫ﻋﻠـﻰ اﻟﺘﻼل وﻋﻠﻰ ﺣﺪود اﻟﺼﺤﺮاء وﻋﻠﻰ ارﺗﻔﺎع‬ ً ُ ّ َ .‫ﺗﻔﻮح ﻓﻲ ﻫﻮاﺋﻬﺎ راﺋﺤﺔ اﻟﻴﺎﺳﻤﻴﻦ‬ ‫وﻟﻴﺎﻟﻲ‬ ‫ﺎت ﺑﺎردة‬ ٍ ‫أﻣﺴﻴ‬

My memories of growing up in Amman are of markets, souks, sports centers, cinemas, archaeology, parks and numerous farms. The people of Amman had a strong influence on my life: not only friends and family, but also the many immigrants, bringing with them the richness of their own culture and food from such countries as Armenia, Greece, Turkey, Egypt and Lebanon, to name just a few; we brought together Nubians and Kurds with our indigenous Bedouin tribes. I remember the food in particular - the rich cuisine of the kitchens of Aleppo and Damascus, the Bedouin mansaf, musakhan from Palestine and qedreh from Hebron, but the king of them all for me has to be the knafeh from Nablus. We lived according to the seasons, with the whole family helping out when it was the olive season, when the cheese and hard labneh needed to be stored, or fruits and vegetables had to be harvested. There were no supermarkets or freezers; everything was fresh, the goats were milked in front of your house and a milkman delivered cow’s milk. What memories I have of the irresistible smell of fried eggs in the famous Samen Baladi and the taste and texture of hummus, foul and falafel in restaurants like Abu Mahjoub,

Left: Taking a Rest

ّ ّ ّ ‫إن ذﻛﺮﻳﺎﺗـﻲ ﺣﻮل ﻧﺸـﺄﺗﻲ ﻓـﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﺮﻳﺎﺿﻴﺔ ودور‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻫﻲ ﻋﻦ اﻷﺳـﻮاق واﻟﻤﺮاﻛـﺰ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻟﺴـﻜﺎن‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن‬.‫واﻟﻤﺘﻨﺰﻫﺎت واﻟﻤـﺰارع اﻟﻌﺪﻳﺪة‬ ‫اﻷﺛﺮﻳـﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﻴﻨﻤﺎ واﻟﻤﻌﺎﻟـﻢ‬

ّ ‫ﺗﺄﺛﻴـﺮ‬ ٌ ‫ ﺑﻞ اﻟﻌﺪد اﻟﻜﺒﻴﺮ ﻣﻦ‬،‫ ﻟﻴﺲ ﻓﻘﻂ اﻷﺻﺪﻗﺎء وأﻓـﺮاد اﻟﻌﺎﺋﻠﺔ‬،‫ﻗﻮي ﻓﻲ ﺣﻴﺎﺗﻲ‬

‫دول ﻣﺜﻞ أرﻣﻴﻨﻴﺎ‬ ٍ ‫اﻟﻤﻬﺎﺟﺮﻳـﻦ اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﺟﻠﺒﻮا ﻣﻌﻬﻢ ﻏﻨـﻰ ﺛﻘﺎﻓﺘﻬﻢ وﻣﺄﻛﻮﻻﺗﻬﻢ ﻣـﻦ‬ ّ ٌ ْ َ ّ ‫ وﻫـﺬا ﻓﻘﻂ ﺑﻌﺾ ﻣﻦ ﻛﻞ؛ ﻓﻘـﺪ ﺟﻤﻌﻨﺎ اﻟﻨﻮﺑﻴﻴﻦ‬،‫واﻟﻴﻮﻧـﺎن وﺗﺮﻛﻴـﺎ وﻣﺼﺮ وﻟﺒﻨﺎن‬ َ َ ّ ً ‫واﻷﻛـﺮاد‬ َ ّ ُ .‫اﻟﺒﺪوﻳﺔ اﻷﺻﻴﻠﺔ‬ ‫ اﻟﻤﻄﺒﺦ‬-‫ﺑﺸـﻜﻞ ﺧﺎص‬ ‫اﻟﻄﻌﺎم‬ ‫أذﻛﺮ‬ ‫ﻣﻌﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻗﺒﺎﺋﻠﻨـﺎ‬ ٍ َ ّ ّ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺒﻠﺪي واﻟﻤﺴﺨﻦ ﻣﻦ ﻓﻠﺴﻄﻴﻦ‬ ‫ اﻟﻤﻨﺴـﻒ‬،‫واﻟﻤﺘﻨﻮع‬ ‫اﻟﻐﻨﻲ‬ ‫واﻟﺪﻣﺸـﻘﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻠﺒﻲ‬ ُ ّ ّ ّ ‫ ﻏﻴﺮ أن اﻟﻜﻨﺎﻓﺔ اﻟﻨﺎﺑﻠﺴﻴﺔ ﻫﻲ ﻣﻠﻜﺔ اﻟﻤﺎﺋﺪة ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴﺒﺔ‬،‫واﻟ ِﻘ ْﺪرة ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﻠﻴﻞ‬ .‫إﻟﻲ‬

ْ ً َ ُ ُ ‫ﺟﻤﻴﻌﻬﻢ ﻳﺴﺎﻋﺪون ﺑﻌﻀﻬﻢ‬ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻛﺎن أﻓﺮاد اﻟﻌﺎﺋﻠﺔ‬،‫ِﻋﺸـﻨﺎ ﺣﻴﺎﺗﻨﺎ َوﻓﻘﺎ ﻟﻠﻤﻮاﺳـﻢ‬ ّ ً ُ ‫ﺑﻌﻀـﺎ ﻋﻨﺪﻣـﺎ ﻛﺎن ﻳﺤﻞ‬ ‫ أو ﻋﻨﺪﻣـﺎ ﻛﺎن ﻳﻨﺒﻐـﻲ ﺗﺨﺰﻳﻦ اﻷﺟﺒﺎن‬،‫ﻣﻮﺳـﻢ اﻟﺰﻳﺘﻮن‬ ّ ّ َ ُ ُ ‫ﻳﺤـﻞ‬ ‫ ﻟﻢ ﻳﻜﻦ‬.‫وﻗﺖ ﻗﻄﺎف اﻟﺨﻀـﺮ واﻟﻔﻮاﻛﻪ‬ ‫ أو ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﻛﺎن‬،‫واﻟﻠﺒﻨـﺔ اﻟﺠﺎﻣـﺪة‬ ّ ّ ً ّ ّ ‫ وﺎﻛﻧﺖ اﻟﻨﻌﺎج‬،‫ﻃﺎزﺟﺎ‬ ‫ﻣﺠﻤﺪات؛ إذ ﻛﺎن ﻛﻞ ﺷـﻲ ٍء‬ ‫ﺗﺠﺎرﻳﺔ ﻛﺒﺮى أو‬ ‫ﻫﻨـﺎك ﻣﺤﺎل‬ ّ ُ ُ َ ُ ‫ ﻳﺎ ﻟﺬﻛﺮﻳﺎﺗﻲ‬.‫ﻳﻮﺻﻞ ﺣﻠﻴﺐ اﻟﺒﻘﺮ إﻟـﻰ ﻣﻨﺰﻟﻚ‬ ِ ‫ وﺎﻛن اﻟﺤﻼب‬،‫ﺗﺤﻠـﺐ أﻣﺎم ﺑﻴﺘـﻚ‬ َ ‫اﻟﺤﻤﺺ‬ ّ ّ َ ُ‫ﻋﻦ راﺋﺤ ٍﺔ ﻻ ﺗ‬ ّ ،‫وﻣﻠﻤﺴﻪ‬ ‫ وﻣﺬاق‬،‫اﻟﺒﻠﺪي‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻘﻠﻲ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﻤﻦ‬ ‫ﻘﺎوم ﻟﻠﺒَﻴﺾ‬ .‫واﻟﻔﻮل واﻟﻔﻼﻓﻞ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻄﺎﻋﻢ ﻣﺜﻞ ﻣﻄﻌﻢ أﺑﻮ ﻣﺤﺠﻮب وﻫﺎﺷﻢ واﻟﻜﻠﺤﺔ وأﺑﻮ ﺟﺒﺎرة‬ َ ً ّ ‫اﻟﺨﺒـﺎزون‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻛﺎن‬ .‫اﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪي وﻛﻌﻚ اﻟﻘﺮﺷـﻠﺔ‬ ‘‘‫’’اﻟﺒﻠﺪي‬ ‫ﻣﻤﻴﺰﻳﻦ أﻳﻀﺎ ﺑﺨﺒﺰ اﻟﻘﻤﺢ‬

‫ ﻭﻗﺖ ﺍﻻﺳﺘﺮﺍﺣﺔ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬

‫ﺣﺎزم ﻣﻠﺤﺲ‬

100

Hashem, Kalha and Abu Jbara. The bakers were special, too, with their traditional bread cooked with local wheat and their karshalleh biscuits. Jabri’s Arabic ice-cream and its variety of sweets were amazing, especially when my uncle ordered madlouqa - a special Nablus sweet. I can remember stealing zaatar (thyme) sandwiches from some of the kids at school because I was so crazy about it. One last favorite food has to be the famous Sudanese Nubian peanuts in the Gold Market downtown. Wars tarnished it all. The Lebanese Civil War and the Palestinian cause shaped my character. I was brought up in a nationalistic family; my father was a writer, a scholar and, after 1948, he was also an angry man. The feeling of loss, the sensation of defeat, injustice and humiliation accompanied me when I arrived at my university campus in the US. Growing up in Amman in the 60s and 70s had created a passionate 18 year old who studied overseas and then returned to support his country, full of mixed emotions … and finally I was a troublemaker. The Palestinian refugee camps were a constant reminder of the struggle against Zionism. The influx of refugees enlarged the city and expanded its boundaries, but Amman also opened its arms to people from Syria, Lebanon and Iraq, giving them refuge and security; the city just kept on growing.

ً ّ ّ ‫ ﻻ‬،‫راﺋﻌﺔ وﻣﺪﻫﺸـﺔ‬ ّ ‫ﺳـﻴﻤﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴـﺔ وأﻧﻮاع اﻟﺤﻠﻮى اﻟﻤﺘﻌﺪدة‬ ‫ﻛﺎﻧـﺖ ﺑﻮﻇـﺔ ﺟﺒﺮي‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻋﻨﺪﻣـﺎ ﻛﺎن‬ ُ ‫ أذﻛﺮ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ‬.‫ وﻫﻲ ﺣﻠﻮى ﻧﺎﺑﻠﺴـﻴﺔ ﺧﺎﺻﺔ‬-‘‘‫ﻋﻤﻲ ﻳﻄﻠـﺐ ’’اﻟﻤﺪﻟﻮﻗﺔ‬

ُ ُ ‫ﺷـﻄﺎﺋﺮ اﻟﺰﻋﺘﺮ ﻣﻦ ﺑﻌﺾ اﻷوﻻد ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺪرﺳـﺔ ﻷﻧّﻲ‬ ُ َ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ‬ َ .‫ﻣﻐﺮ ًﻣﺎ ﺑﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ أﺳـﺮق‬ ٌ ّ ٌ ّ ‫ وﻫﻮ اﻟﻔﺴـﺘﻖ‬،‫أﺧﻴﺮ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻄﻌﺎم اﻟﻤﻔﻀﻞ‬ ‫وﻫﻨﺎك ﻧﻮع‬ ‫اﻟﺴﻮداﻧﻲ اﻟﻤﺸﻬﻮر اﻟﺬي ﻛﺎن‬ .‫ﻳُﺒﺎع ﻓﻲ ﺳﻮق اﻟﺬﻫﺐ ﻓﻲ وﺳﻂ اﻟﺒﻠﺪ‬ ّ ُ َ َ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻔﻠﺴﻄﻴﻨﻴﺔ‬ ‫واﻟﻘﻀﻴﺔ‬ ،‫اﻷﻫﻠﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻠﺒﻨﺎﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫ ﻓﺎﻟﺤﺮب‬.‫اﻟﺤﺮوب ﻛﻞ ﺷﻲ ٍء ﺑﺮﻳﻘﻪ‬ ‫ﺪت‬ ِ ‫أﻓﻘ‬ ً ّ ّ ُ ‫ﻋﺮ‬ ّ َ ‫ﺗﺮ‬ َ .‫ﺷـﺨﺼﻴﺘﻲ‬ ‫ﻋﺖ ﻓـﻲ ﻋﺎﺋﻠﺔ‬ ‫ﻛﻮﻧﺘﺎ‬ ‫ وﺑﻌﺪ‬،‫وﻃﻨﻴﺔ؛ إذ ﻛﺎن واﻟـﺪي ﻛﺎﺗﺒًﺎ وﺑﺎﺣﺜﺎ‬ ً ّ ً َ ‫ وﻣـﺎ ﻳﺮاﻓﻘﻪ ﻣﻦ‬،‫اﻟﺸـﻌﻮر ﺑﺎﻟﺨﺴـﺎرة‬ ‫ إن‬.‫م ﺻـﺎر أﻳﻀـﺎ رﺟـﻼ ﻏﺎﺿﺒًـﺎ‬١٩٤٨ ‫ﻋـﺎم‬ ّ ُ ْ‫ ﻗﺪ راﻓَﻘﺎﻧﻲ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ وﺻﻠ‬،‫واﻟﻈﻠﻢ واﻹذﻻل‬ ‫ﺖ إﻟﻰ ﺣﺮم اﻟﺠﺎﻣﻌﺔ‬ ‫اﻹﺣﺴﺎس ﺑﺎﻟﻬﺰﻳﻤﺔ‬ ّ ّ ّ ّ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻓﻲ ﺳﺘ‬ ّ ‫إن ﻧﺸـﺄﺗﻲ ﻓﻲ‬ ُ ‫ﻴﻨﻴﺎت اﻟﻘﺮن‬ .‫درﺳـﺖ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻮﻻﻳﺎت اﻟﻤﺘﺤﺪة‬ ‫اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ّ ْ َ ّ ً ً ‫ درس‬،‫اﻟﻤﺎﺿﻲ وﺳـﺒﻌﻴﻨﻴﺎﺗﻪ ﺧﻠﻘﺖ ﻣﻨﻲ ﺷـﺎﺑﺎ ﻋﺎﻃﻔﻴﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺜﺎﻣﻨﺔ ﻋﺸﺮة ﻣﻦ ﻋﻤﺮه‬

ُ َ ُ ‫أﺧﻴـﺮا‬ ً ‫ﻛﻨﺖ‬ ً ُ ...‫ﻣﺸـﺎﻋﺮ ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻄﺔ‬ ‫ﻓـﻲ اﻟﺨـﺎرج ﻋ ّﻢ ﻋﺎد ﻟﻴُﺴـﺎﻋﺪ وﻃﻨﻪ ﺗﻤﻸه‬ ‫ﻣﺜﻴﺮا‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬.‫ﻟﻠﻤﺸـﻜﻼت‬ ً ‫ﺗﺬﻛﻴﺮا‬ ً ‫داﺋﻤﺎ ﻟﻠﻜﻔﺎح ﺿﺪ‬ ‫اﻟﻔﻠﺴـﻄﻴﻨﻴﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﻣﺨﻴﻤﺎت اﻟﻼﺟﺌﻴﻦ‬ ّ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻟﻜﻦ‬ ّ ‫أدى إﻟﻰ‬ ّ َ‫اﻟﺼﻬﻴ‬ َ ‫ﺗﺪﻓ‬ ّ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ،‫ﺗﻮﺳـﻊ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ وﺣﺪودﻫـﺎ‬ ‫ـﻖ اﻟﻼﺟﺌﻴـﻦ‬ ‫ إن‬.‫ﻮﻧﻴـﺔ‬ َ ّ ّ ْ َ َ ّ ،‫ وﻗﺪﻣﺖ إﻟﻴﻬﻢ اﻟﻤﻼذ واﻷﻣﺎن‬،‫ﺳـﻮرﻳﺎ وﻟﺒﻨﺎن واﻟﻌﺮاق‬ ‫ذراﻋﻴﻬﺎ ﻟﻠﻨﺎس ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻓﺘﺤﺖ‬ ُ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻓﻲ‬ ّ .‫ﻧﻤﻮﻫﺎ‬ ‫واﺳﺘﻤﺮ ِت‬ َ ‫أﺷـﻌﺮ ﺑﺤﺰن ﻋﻤﻴﻖ ﻷﻧّﻨـﺎ‬ ّ ُ ‫اﻟﺰراﻋﻴﺔ اﻟﺨﺼﺒﺔ‬ ‫ﻛﺒﻴﺮ ﻣﻦ أرﺿﻨـﺎ‬ ‫اﻧﺘﻬﻴﻨﺎ ﺑﺘَﺪﻣﻴﺮ ﺟـﺰ ٍء‬ ٍ ٍ

101

I feel so sad that we ended up destroying much of our rich agricultural land by heading west rather than east. We missed an opportunity to green the city with parks and we lost much of the old archaeology of ancient Philadelphia by building our downtown. I am passionate about protecting what we have left; the city is so rich with its history spanning 10,000 years of human civilization, from the Ain Ghazal settlement in the east to the Old Hejaz railway station in Amman’s Maaniyeh district, built in 1908. As well as this, and possibly even more pressing, is the need to preserve our 1920s to 1960s architecture because it is a repository of all that I feel about the people who built our city - respect, humility and a huge sense of pride. I love Amman and I love my life in our city.

The Age of Steam Left: Sketch of Al Hejaz Tunnel Next page: Al Hejaz Railway Viaduct

َ َ ً ْ َ ّ ً ‫ﻧﺘﻴﺠـﺔ اﻻﺗّﺠـﺎه‬ ‫ وﻗـﺪ أﺿﻌﻨﺎ ﻓﺮﺻـﺔ ﺗﺸـﺠﻴﺮ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬.‫ﻏﺮﺑـﺎ ﺑـﺪل اﻟﺘﻮﺟـﻪ ﺷـﺮﻗﺎ‬ ْ َ ً ّ َ ‫اﻟﻜﺜﻴـﺮ ﻣﻦ آﺛﺎر ﻓﻴﻼدﻟﻔﻴﺎ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل اﻟﺒﻨﺎء‬ ‫ ﻛﻤﺎ ﻓﻘﺪﻧﺎ أﻳﻀﺎ‬،‫ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺘﻨﺰﻫـﺎت‬ ّ ً ٌّ َْ ّ ‫ﻏﻨﻴﺔ ﺟﺪا‬ ‫ﻣﺘﺤﻤ ٌﺲ ﻟﺤﻤﺎﻳﺔ ﻣﺎ ﻗﺪ أﺑﻘﻴﻨﺎ ﻋﻠﻴـﻪ؛ ﻓﺎﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫ إﻧـﻲ‬.‫ﻓﻲ وﺳـﻂ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ّ ّ ‫ ﻣﻦ ﻣﺴﺘﻮﻃﻨﺔ‬،‫اﻹﻧﺴﺎﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺑﺘﺎرﻳﺨﻬﺎ اﻟﺬي ﻳﻤﺘﺪ إﻟﻰ ﻋﺸﺮة آﻻف ﺳﻨﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺤﻀﺎرة‬ ّ ّ ‫ إﻟﻰ‬،‫ﻋﻴـﻦ اﻟﻐـﺰال ﻓﻲ اﻟﺸـﺮق‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺤﺠـﺎزي اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤﺔ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﺪﻳـﺪي‬ ‫اﻟﺨﻂ‬ ‫ﻣﺤﻄـﺔ‬ ً ّ ‫اﻟﻤﻌﺎﻧﻴـﺔ ﻓﻲ‬ ّ ّ -‫ ﻓﻀﻼ ﻋﻦ ﻫـﺬا‬.‫م‬١٩٠٨ ‫ واﻟﺘـﻲ ﺑُﻨﻴَﺖ ﻋـﺎم‬،‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ ‫ورﺑﻤﺎ‬ ‫ﺿﺎﺣﻴـﺔ‬ َ ً ٌ ّ ّ ّ ‫ ﻋﻤﺔ ﺿﺮورة ﻟﻠﺤﻔﺎظ ﻋﻠﻰ أﺳـﻠﻮﺑﻨﺎ اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎري اﻟﺬي ﻳﻤﺘﺪ‬-‫ﺑﺼـﻮرة أﻛﺜـﺮ إﻟﺤﺎﺣﺎ‬ ّ ٌ َ ّ ّ ّ ّ‫وﺣﺘﻰ ﺳـﺘ‬ ّ ُ ‫أﺷﻌﺮ ﺑﻪ‬ ‫ﻴﻨﻴﺎﺗﻪ؛ ﻷﻧﻪ ﻣﺴـﺘَﻮدع ﻟﻜﻞ ﻣﺎ‬ ‫ﻋﺸـﺮﻳﻨﻴﺎت اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻤﺎﺿﻲ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ‬ َ ٌ ُ ٌ َ ُ ُ ُ َ .‫ اﻻﺣﺘﺮام واﻟﺘﻮاﺿﻊ وإﺣﺴﺎس ﻫﺎﺋﻞ ﺑﺎﻟﻔﺨﺮ‬-‫ﺗﺠﺎه اﻷﺷـﺨﺎص اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﺑﻨﻮا ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺘﻨﺎ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﺣﺐ‬ ّ ُ‫أ‬ .‫وأﺣﺐ ﺣﻴﺎﺗﻲ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬

‫ﺍﻟﺒﺨﺎﺭﻱ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﻌﺼﺮ‬ ّ ّ ‫ ﺳﻜﺘﺶ ﻧﻔﻖ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺨﻂ ﺍﻟﺤﺠﺎﺯﻱ‬ ّ ‫ ﻗﻨﺎﻃﺮ‬:‫ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺤﺠﺎﺯﻱ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺤﺪﻳﺪﻱ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺨﻂ‬ ّ ّ

102

103

104

َّ ُ ‫ اﺤﻟﻀﻦ ا اﻓﺊ‬...‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬

Ma'moon Altalhoni |

Amman…the Warm Cradle

When I look at Amman at this age, I do not look at it as a city in which I live, but I see it as a beautiful, warm cradle that has embraced the innocence of childhood, the impetuousness of youth and the dreams of mature manhood. I see Amman as a compassionate city enveloped by mountains. In its warm cradle lies the Hashemite Square, located downtown, the source of its vivacious pulse. My eyes were opened there, and it was there that I learned the first lessons of homeland and love. I have also learned the letters and the composition of words. There I started to be aware of the fact that the place is beautiful not only because of its geographical features, but because of the features of the people living in it. Thus, the beauty of the land is mixed with the beauty of its people. In addition, the serene society of Amman has been formed in which relationships are characterized by respect, love and understanding based on the foundation of public nationalism as well as social and humanitarian foundations that guarantee the formation of a strong and sustainable society. I do not look at Amman during that time in the sense of the number of houses and neighborhoods, but in the sense of its rich social relationships; for me, it was an enormous city. Although there are economic and social differences between downtown and Jabal Amman (where we moved), I did not see any differences between people; all of them have the open-minded, life-seeking friendliness of Amman. Some of the distinguishing features of Amman are its stairs, which we climbed, where I met my friends. Climbing these stairs has taught me patience as it has taught me a lesson in life: a person has to work hard in order to reach the top. What beautiful memories that occupy my thoughts now as I write these lines. In Jabal Amman I grew older, I saw Amman growing older. I was the witness enjoying the development of the story—the story of Amman which will expand and become a vast city. It will open its arms welcoming newcomers who have fled to it from injustice and oppression to find a homeland that welcomed them. Once again, Amman is repeating its first life story in its stairs, mountains, buildings, tunnels, streets, grand society and security. It has

Left: Temple of Hercules from Rainbow St. Next page: Full Moon

ً ّ ‫أﻧﻈـﺮ إﻰﻟ‬ َ ‫أﻧﻈـﺮ إ ﻬـﺎ‬ ُ ُ ‫ﺑﻮﺻﻔﻬـﺎ ﻣﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬ ‫ ﻻ‬،‫ﻋﻤـﺎن ﻲﻓ ﻫـﺬا اﻟﻌﻤـﺮ‬ ‫ﻋﻨﺪﻣـﺎ‬ ً َ َ َّ ً َ ‫اﺣﺘﻀـﻦ ﺑﺮاءة اﻟﻄﻔﻮﻟﺔ وﻧﺰق‬ ، ‫ إﻧﻤﺎ أراﻫـﺎ ﺣﻀﻨﺎ داﻓﺌًﺎ ﻤﺟﻴﻼ‬،‫أﻋﻴـﺶ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ً ُّ ً ّ ‫ أرى‬.‫وأﺣـﻼم اﻟﺮﺟﻮﻟـﺔ‬ َ ،‫اﻟﺸـﺒﺎب‬ ،‫ﻋﻤـﺎن ﻣﺪﻳﻨـﺔ ﺣﺎﻧﻴـﺔ ﺗﻐﻠﻔﻬـﺎ اﺠﻟﺒـﺎل‬

ُ ّ ُ ‫وﻣﺼﺪر‬ ،‫ ﺣﻴﺚ وﺳـﻂ اﻛﺘ‬،‫اﻬﻟﺎﺷـﻤﻴﺔ‬ ‫و ِﺣﻀﻨﻬـﺎ ا اﻓﺊ ﻫﻨﺎك اﻟﺴـﺎﺣﺔ‬ َّ ُ ّ ْ َ ّ ّ ‫ وﻫﻨـﺎك ﺗﻌﻠﻤﺖ أو ل دروس‬،‫ ﻫﻨـﺎك ﺗﻔﺘﺤـﺖ ﻋﻴﻨﺎي‬.‫اﺤﻟﻴـﻮي ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫اﺠﺒـﺾ‬ ّ ّ ُ ‫ ﻛﻤـﺎ ﺗﻌﻠ‬،‫واﻤﻟﺤﺒـﺔ‬ ‫ وﻫﻨﺎك‬.‫ﻤـﺖ ﺗﻬﺠﺌـﺔ اﺤﻟـﺮوف وﺑﻨـﺎء اﻟﻠﻜﻤـﺎت‬ ‫اﻟﻮﻃـﻦ‬ َ ُ ّ َ ُ ّ َ ،‫ﺑـﺪأت أﻲﻋ أن اﻤﻟـﺎﻜن ﻳﺄﺧﺬ ﻤﺟـﺎ ﻟﻴﺲ ﻣـﻦ ﻣﻌﻄﻴﺎﺗﻪ اﺠﻟﻐﺮاﻓﻴﺔ ﻓﺤﺴـﺐ‬ ُ ُ ً َ ُ ‫ﻓﺎﻣﺰﺘج‬ ،‫ﻳﻤﻨﺤﻬﺎ اﻹﻧﺴـﺎن ا ي ﻳﻌﻴﺶ ﻓﻴﻪ‬ ‫ﺑـﻞ أﻳﻀﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻤﻟﻌﻄﻴـﺎت اﻟﻲﺘ‬ ُ ُ ّ َ ّ ّ ُ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ‬،‫اﻟﻌﻤـﺎ ّ اﻟﺮاﺋـﻖ‬ ‫اﻤﻟﺠﺘﻤـﻊ‬ ‫وﺗﻜـﻮ ن‬ ،‫ﻤﺟـﺎل اﻷرض وﻤﺟـﺎل ﺳـﺎﻜ ﻧﻬﺎ‬ ُ ُّ ُ ُ ّ ّ ُ ،‫اﻟﻮﻃﻨﻴـﺔ اﻟﻌﺎﻣﺔ‬ ‫واﻤﻟﺤﺒﺔ واﺤﻛﻔﺎﻫﻢ ﺒﻟ اﻷﺳـﺲ‬ ‫اﻻﺣـﺮﺘام‬ ‫اﻟﻌﻼﻗﺎت‬ ‫ﻳﺴـﻮد‬ ِ ُ َ ُّ َ ُ َ ّ ّ ‫ﺤﻧﻮ‬ ٍ ‫واﻷﺳـﺲ اﻹﻧﺴـﺎﻧﻴﺔ واﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﻴـﺔ اﻟـﻲﺘ ﺗﻜﻔـﻞ ﺗﺸـﻞﻜ اﻤﻟﺠﺘﻤـﻊ ﺒﻟ‬ ّ . ‫وﻣﺴـﺘﻤﺮ‬ ‫ﻣﻨﻴﻊ‬ ّ ‫ﻻ أﻧﻈـﺮ إﻰﻟ‬ ‫ ﺑﻞ‬،‫ﻋﻤـﺎن ﻲﻓ ذﻟـﻚ اﻟﺰﻣﻦ ﻣﻦ ﺧـﻼل ﻋﺪد اﻛﻴـﻮت واﻷﺣﻴﺎء‬ ً ّ ّ ‫اﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﻴـﺔ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ؛ إذ ﺎﻛﻧﺖ ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴـﺒﺔ‬ ‫إﻲﻟ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫ﻣـﻦ ﺧﻼل ﺛﺮاء اﻟﻌﻼﻗـﺎت‬ ً ّ ّ ‫ وﻣـﻊ أن ﻫﻨــﺎك ﻓﺮوﻗﺎ ﻣﺎ ﺑﻦﻴ وﺳـﻂ اﻛﻠــﺪ وﺟﺒــﻞ ﻋﻤﺎن )ﺣﻴﺚ‬.‫ﻫﺎﺋﻠـﺔ‬ ّ ْ ّ ّ َ ‫أﺟﺪ‬ ِ ‫ ﻓﺈ ﻟﻢ‬،‫اﻧﺘﻘﻠﻨـﺎ ﺠﻌﻴــﺶ( ﻣﻦ اﺠــﻮا اﻻﻗﺘﺼـﺎدﻳـﺔ واﻻﺟﺘﻤـﺎﻋﻴﺔ‬ ً َ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻣﻼﻣـﺢ‬ َ َ ،‫اﻟﺸـﻌﺒﻴﺔ اﻤﻟﻨﻔﺘﺤﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ ‫اﺠﻟﻤﻴـﻊ ﻤﺣﻠـﻮا‬ ‫ﻓ ْﺮ ﻗـﺎ ﺑـﻦﻴ اﺠـﺎس؛ ﻷن‬ .‫واﻤﻟﻘﺒﻠـﺔ ﺒﻟ اﺤﻟﻴـﺎة‬ ِ ُ ُ َّ ‫أدراج‬ ّ َّ ‫ﻣـﻦ ﻋﻼﻣـﺎت‬ ‫ وﺒﻟ ﻫـﺬه اﻷدراج‬،‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ ‫ ﺗـﺮى‬،‫اﻤﻟﻤـﺰﻴ ة‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ ّ َ ُ ُ ُ َ ‫ وﻫﻨـﺎك‬، ‫ﻄـﻮت‬ ‫ ﻟﻘـﺪ ﻋﻠﻤـﻲﻨ ﺻﻌﻮد ﻫﺬه‬.‫ﻘﻴـﺖ اﻷﺣﺒـﺎب واﻷﺻﺪﻗﺎء‬ ‫اﺤﻛ‬ ‫ﺧ‬ ْ ّ ّ ‫ﺑـﺪ ﻣـﻦ اﺤﻛﻌﺐ ﺣ‬ ً ‫اﻟﺼـﺮﺒ ﻛﻤـﺎ ﻋﻠّﻤـﻲﻨ‬ َ ‫ أن ﻻ‬:‫درﺳـﺎ ﻲﻓ اﺤﻟﻴـﺎة‬ ‫اﻷدراج‬ َ ّ ُ ‫ذﻛﺮﻳﺎت ﻤﺟﻴﻠﺔ ﺠﺗﻮل ﻲﻓ ﺧﺎﻃﺮي اﻵن وأﻧﺎ‬ ‫ ﻳﺎ ﻬﻟﺎ ﻣـﻦ‬.‫اﻟﻘﻤﺔ‬ ‫اﻤﻟﺮء إﻰﻟ‬ ‫ﻳَ ِﺼـﻞ‬ ٍ

.‫أﻛﺘﺐ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴـﻄﻮر‬

َ ُ ّ ‫ورأﻳـﺖ‬ ّ ‫ﻲﻓ ﺟﺒـﻞ‬ ُ ُ ‫ﻛﻨﺖ اﻟﺸـﺎﻫﺪ‬ ‫ ﻓﻘـﺪ‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﺗﻜـﺮﺒ ﻣﻲﻌ‬ ‫ﻛـﺮﺒت‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن‬ ً ّ ّ ‫ﻗﺼـﺔ‬ َ -‫اﻟﻘﺼـﺔ‬ َ َ َ‫اﻤﻟﺴـﺘ‬ ُ ‫وﺗﺼـﺮﻴ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﻲﺘ ﺳـﺘﺘﻤﺪ د‬ ‫ﻤﺘﻊ ﺑﻤﺠﺮﻳـﺎت‬

ً ّ َ ً ُ َ‫ وﺳـﺘ‬،‫ﻣﺮﺘاﻣﻴـﺔ اﻷﻃﺮاف‬ ‫ﻫﺮﺑﺎ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ذراﻋﻴﻬﺎ ﻣﺮﺣﺒـﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻘﺎدﻣﻦﻴ إ ﻬـﺎ‬ ‫ﻔﺘﺢ‬ َ ّ ً ‫ وﻫـﺎ ﻲﻫ اﻵن ﺑﺄدراﺟﻬﺎ‬.‫ﻬـﺮ َﺠـﺪوا ﻓﻴﻬـﺎ وﻃﻨـﺎ رﺣـﺐ ﺑﻬـﻢ‬ ٍ ٍ ‫ﻇﻠـﻢ أو ﻗ‬

‫ ﺑﻤﻼﻣـﺢ ﺠﻣﺘﻤﻌﻬـﺎ اﻟﺮاﻗﻴـﺔ‬،‫ ﺑﺒﻨﺎﻳﺎﺗﻬـﺎ وأﻧﻔﺎﻗﻬـﺎ وﺷـﻮارﻋﻬﺎ‬،‫وﺟﺒﺎﻬﻟـﺎ‬

‫ ﻣﻌﺒﺪ ﻫﺮﻗﻞ ﻣﻦ ﺷﺎﺭﻉ ﺍﻟﺮﻳﻨﺒﻮ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬ ‫ ﺍﻟﻘﻤﺮ ﺍﻟﻤﻜﺘﻤﻞ‬:‫ﻓﻲ ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

‫ﻣﺄﻣﻮن اﺤﻛﻠﻬﻮﻰﻳ‬

106

not changed and has not forgotten the principles on which it was founded; it has not forgotten its ﬁrst social contract. It endures a lot but does not moan or complain because its basic law is that it should be a refuge and a homeland… which I remember now… and live it out always…

َ ُ ُ‫ ﻫـﺎ ﻲﻫ ﺗ‬-‫وﺑﺄﻣﻨﻬـﺎ‬ ّ ‫ﺗﺘﻐـﺮﻴ‬ ‫ ﻟـﻢ‬، ‫ﻌﻴـﺪ ﺳـﺮﻴﺗﻬﺎ اﻷو‬ َ ْ َّ ‫ﻨـﺲ ﻣـﺎ‬ َ َ‫وﻟـﻢ ﺗ‬ ‫ وﻻ ﻧﺴـﻴَﺖ ﻋﻘﺪ ﻫـﺎ‬،‫ﺗﺄﺳﺴـﺖ ﻋﻠﻴـﻪ‬ ُ ّ َّ ّ ‫اﻟﻜﺜـﺮﻴ وﻻ‬ َ َّ َّ ‫اﻻﺟﺘﻤـﺎﻲﻋ‬ ‫ﺗﻦﺌ وﻻ‬ ‫ﺗﺘﺤﻤـﻞ‬ ‫ إﻧﻬـﺎ‬.‫اﻷو ل‬

ً ّ ّ َ َ َ ‫اﻷﺳـﺎس ﻫـﻮ أن ﺗﻜﻮن ﻣﻼذ ا‬ ‫ﺗﺘﺄﻓـﻒ؛ ﻷن ﻗﺎﻧﻮﻧﻬـﺎ‬ ً ،‫ووﻃﻨـﺎ‬ ...‫أﺳﺘﺬﻛﺮه اﻵن‬ ّ ...‫وأﻋﻴﺸﻪ ﻲﻓ ﻞﻛ آن‬

‫ﻣﺮﻳﻢ ﻋﺒﺎﺑﺴﺔ‬

‫| ‪Myriam Ababsa‬‬

‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﺮﺸﻗﻴﺔّ‬ ‫اﻟﻐﺮﺑﻴﺔ إﻰﻟ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﻋﻤﺎن‬

‫‪From Amman West to Amman East‬‬

‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻠـﻰ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺮﻏﻢ ﻣـﻦ ﻓﻨﻬﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺴـﺮﺣﻲ وﺟﻤـﺎل ﺗﻼﻟﻬـﺎ ذات اﻟﻤﻨﺤـﺪرات اﻟﻤﻌﺘﺪﻟﺔ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫أﺷـﻌﺮ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﺠﺮﻳـﺔ اﻟﻤﻈﻠﻠﺔ ﺑﺄﺷـﺠﺎر اﻟﺼﻨﻮﺑـﺮ واﻟﺰﻳﺘﻮن واﻟﻜﻴﻨﺎ‪ ،‬ﻓﺈﻧﻲ‬ ‫وﻣﺒﺎﻧﻴﻬـﺎ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ ُ‬ ‫َُ ّ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺑـﺄن ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن ﻟﻢ ﺗﻮ ﺣﻘﻬﺎ ﻣـﻦ اﻟﺘﻘﺪﻳﺮ‪ .‬ﻛﻤﺎ ﻳﺤﺠـﺐ ﺟﻤﺎﻟﻬﺎ وﻳﻘﻠـﻞ ﻣﻦ ﻗﻴﻤﺘﻪ‬ ‫َُ َ ّ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ﻌﺎت اﻟﻤﺴـﺎﻓﺮﻳﻦ‪.‬‬ ‫ﻣـﺪن ﻣﻦ أﻣﺜﺎل دﻣﺸـﻖ وﺑﻴﺮوت واﻟﻘﺪس اﻟﻼﺗـﻲ ﻓﻔﻘﻦ ﺗﻮﻗ ِ‬ ‫ﺗﺴـﺘﺤﻖ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن أﻓﻀﻞ ﻣﻦ ﻫﺬا!‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ ْ‬ ‫ﺗﻮﺳـﻌﺖ ّ‬ ‫ﻟﻘﺪ ّ‬ ‫ﺑﻤﻌﺪل ّ‬ ‫ﻧﻤﻮ ﻏﻴﺮ ﻣﺴﺒﻮق‪ ،‬ﺣﻴﺚ ﺗﺰاﻳَﺪ ﻋﺪد‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن واﻛﺘَﻈﺖ ﺑﺎﻟﺴﻜﺎن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﻜﺎن ﻣـﻦ ‪ ٥٠٠٠‬ﻧﺴـﻤﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻋـﺎم ‪١٩٢١‬م إﻟﻰ ﻣـﺎ ﻳﻘﺎرب ‪ ٣‬ﻣﻼﻳﻴﻦ ﻧﺴـﻤﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺴـﻜﺎﻧﻲ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻳﺸﻜﻞ َ‬ ‫أﻛﺜﺮ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻟﻌﻤﺎن اﻟﻜﺒﺮى ﻣﻊ اﻟﺰرﻗﺎء واﻟﺮﺻﻴﻔﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﺠﻤﻊ‬ ‫‪٢٠١٢‬م‪ .‬إن‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻧﺼﻒ ﺳﻜﺎن اﻟﻤﻤﻠﻜﺔ اﻟﺒﺎﻟﻎ ﻋﺪدﻫﻢ ﺳﺘﺔ ﻣﻼﻳﻴﻦ وﻧﺼﻒ ﻣﻠﻴﻮن ﻧﺴﻤﺔ‪ .‬ووﺻﻮل‬ ‫اﻟﻔﻠﺴﻄﻴﻨﻴﻴﻦ ﻓﻲ َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﺎﻣﻲ ‪١٩٤٨‬م و‪١٩٦٧‬م؛ وﻣﺠﻲء اﻟﻨﺎس ﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﻼﺟﺌﻴﻦ واﻟﻨﺎزﺣﻴﻦ‬

‫ّ‬ ‫أدﻳﺎ ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺠﻨﻮﺑﻴﺔ‪ ،‬ﻗﺪ‬ ‫اﻟﺮﻳﻔﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻨﺎﻃﻖ‬ ‫ﺑﺸـﻜﻞ ﻛﺒﻴﺮ‬ ‫ﻣﻌﺎ إﻟﻰ ارﺗﻔﺎع أﺳـﻌﺎر اﻷراﺿﻲ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ﻣﻤـﺎ أرﻟﻢ اﻟﻔﻘﺮاء ﻋﻠﻰ ﺑﻨﺎء اﻟﺒﻴﻮت ﻋﻠﻰ اﻷراﺿﻲ اﻟﺰراﻋﻴﺔ‪ ،‬وﻋﻠﻰ ﻃﻮل اﻟﻮدﻳﺎن‬

‫وﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﺴﺎﺣﺎت اﻟﺸﺎﻏﺮة ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻨﺤﺪرات اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‪.‬‬

‫ﻏﺮﺑﻴﺔ‪ ،‬ﺣـﻮل ﺿﻮاﺣﻲ ﺟﺒـﻞ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺗﻄـﻮرت ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن وﺟﺒﻞ‬ ‫ﻋﻤـﺎن إﻟـﻰ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺘﻴﻦ‪ :‬ﻣﺪﻳﻨـﺔ‬ ‫ُّ‬ ‫اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒـﺪة واﻟﺸﻤﻴﺴـﺎﻧﻲ وأم أذﻳﻨﺔ وأم اﻟﺴـﻤﺎق وﻋﺒـﺪون ودﻳﺮ ﻏﺒـﺎر‪ ،‬وﺗﺘﺄﻟﻒ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ﺑﺤﺪاﺋـﻖ ﺻﻐﻴﺮة‪ ،‬أو ﻣـﻦ دارات ﺑﺘَﺼﺎﻣﻴﻢ‬ ‫ﻣﺒـﺎن ﻋﺎدﻳّـﺔ ﻣﻦ أرﺑﻌـﺔ ﻃﻮاﺑﻖ ﻣﺤﺎﻃﺔ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻣﺘﻨﻮﻋـﺔ )’’ﺷـﺮﻗﻴﺔ‘‘ ﻣـﻊ ﻗﻨﺎﻃـﺮ‪ ،‬أوروﭘﻴـﺔ ﻋﺼﺮﻳﺔ ﺑﺄﺳـﻄﺢ ﻣﻦ اﻵﺟـﺮ )اﻟﻘﺮﻣﻴﺪ(‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﺷـﻜﻞ زاوﻳﺔ ﺣﺎدة‪،‬‬ ‫ﻣﻜﺴﻮة‬ ‫ﻫﻨﺪﺳـﻴﺔ وﻧﻮاﻓﺬ ﻛﺒﻴﺮة ﺑﺎرزة(‪ -‬وﻠﻛﻬﺎ‬ ‫وﺑﺄﺷـﻜﺎل‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺳﻜﺎﻧًﺎ‪ ،‬وﺗَ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻀﻢ‬ ‫اﻟﺸـﺮﻗﻴﺔ ﻓﻬﻲ أﻛﺜﻒ‬ ‫اﻟﺮﻣﻠﻲ ذي اﻟﻠﻮن ﻧﻔﺴـﻪ‪ .‬أﻣﺎ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫ﺑﺎﻟﺤﺠﺮ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ﻣﺒﺎﻧﻲ ﻣﻦ اﻻﺳـﻤﻨﺖ وﻛﺘﻞ اﻟﺨﺮﺳـﺎﻧﺔ‪ .‬وﻫﻨﺎك ﻋﺪم ﻛﻔﺎﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺨﺪﻣﺎت اﻟﺤﻀﺮﻳﺔّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫ً ّ ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺑﻌـﺾ اﻟﻤﺪارس ﻓﺘﺮﺗﻴﻦ دراﺳـﻴﺘﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﻓﻴﻬـﺎ‪ ،‬وﻣﺪارﺳـﻬﺎ ﻣﺰدﺣﻤﺔ ﺟـﺪا ﺣﺘﻰ إن ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺗﻮﺟ ُ‬ ‫اﻟﻄﻼب ﻓﻲ اﻟﻴـﻮم ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺒﻨﻰ ﻧﻔﺴـﻪ‪ ،‬وﻻ َ‬ ‫ـﺪ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻣﻼﻋﺐُ‬ ‫ﻟﻤﺠﻤﻮﻋﺘَﻴـﻦ ﻣـﻦ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫زﻟﺖ أرى ّ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻆ‪ ،‬ﻣﺎ ُ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﺑﺼﻔﺘﻬﺎ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ‫ﺴـﻦ‬ ‫ﻟﻸﻃﻔﺎل أو ﻣﺴـﺎﺣﺎت ﺧﻀﺮاء‪ .‬ﻟﺤ ِ‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫ًّ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫َ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫واﻟﻴﺎﺳـﻤﻴﻦ‬ ‫وﻏﻨﻴﺔ ﺑﺎﻷﻟـﻮان‪ ،‬ﺗﺼﺎدف ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻧﺒـﺎت اﻟﺒﻮﻏﻴﻨﻔﻴﻠﻴﺎ )اﻟﻤﺠﻨﻮﻧﺔ(‬ ‫زاﻫﻴـﺔ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫ﺎرات ﻻﻣﻌﺔ ﺟﻤﻴﻠﺔ‪ .‬ﺗﺮى ﻓﻴﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ اﻟﺮﻣﺎدﻳّﺔ‬ ‫وأﺷـﺠﺎر اﻟﻨﺨﻴﻞ واﻟﺠﺎﻛﺮﻧﺪا وﺳـﻴ ٍ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺑﺼﻔـﻮف ﺳـﺎﺋﻘﻲ ّ‬ ‫ﺳـﻴﺎرات اﻷﺟـﺮة اﻟﻤﻨﻬﻜﻴـﻦ ﻣﻦ ﻋﻨـﺎء ﻳـﻮمٍ ﺷـﺎق‪ ،‬واﻷﻣﻬﺎت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺴـﺮ َن ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وﻫﻦ ﻳ َ ْ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺤﺠﺒﺎت ّ‬ ‫أﻋﻘﺎﺑﻬﻦ‪ .‬ﻓﻲ اﻟﺠﺰء اﻟﻐﺮ ّ‬ ‫وأوﻻدﻫﻦ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﺑﺨﻄﻰ ﺳـﺮﻳﻌ ٍﺔ‬ ‫ُ ّ‬ ‫ﺪﻓﺄ اﻟﺸـﻘﻖ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺸـﺘﺎء وﺗﻜـﻮن ّ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ّ‬ ‫ﻣﻜﻴﻔﺔ اﻟﻬﻮاء ﻓـﻲ اﻟﺼﻴﻒ‪ ،‬وﻫﻨﺎك‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‪ ،‬ﺗ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ وﻛﺬﻟـﻚ أﻣﺎﻛﻦ ﻟﻌﺒﻬﻢ‪.‬‬ ‫ﻣﺼﺎﺑﻴـﺢ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺸـﻮارع‪ ،‬وﻟﺪى اﻷﻃﻔـﺎل ﻏﺮﻓﻬﻢ‬ ‫ُ ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺪﻓﺄ ﺑﻮاﺳﻄﺔ ﻣﻮاﻗﺪ اﻟﻐﺎز وﺗُﻔﺮدَ‬ ‫أﻣﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺠﺰء اﻟﺸﺮ ّ ‪ ،‬ﻓﺘُﻀﺎء اﻟﺸﻘﻖ ﺑﻨﻮر اﻟﻨﻴﻮن وﺗ‬

‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‪ :‬ﺩﺍﺭﺓ ﺍﻟﻔﻨﻮﻥ ‪٣‬‬

‫‪Despite the drama and beauty of its rolling hills and its‬‬ ‫‪stone buildings shaded by pines, olives and eucalyptus, I feel‬‬ ‫‪that Amman is largely under-appreciated. Its understated‬‬ ‫‪beauty is eclipsed by the likes of Damascus, Beirut and Je‬‬‫‪rusalem, which exceed travellers’ expectations. Amman de‬‬‫!‪serves better than this‬‬ ‫‪With an unprecedented growth rate, Amman has expanded‬‬ ‫‪and densiﬁed rapidly, growing from 5,000 inhabitants in 1921‬‬ ‫‪to nearly 3 million in 2012. The agglomeration of Greater‬‬ ‫‪Amman, with Zarqa and Russeifah, comprises more than half‬‬ ‫‪of the Kindom’s six and a half million inhabitants. The arrival‬‬ ‫‪of Palestinian refugees in 1948 and 1967 and people from the‬‬ ‫‪rural south has led to soaring land prices, forcing the poor to‬‬ ‫‪build on farmland, along wadis and on vacant spaces on the‬‬ ‫‪city slopes.‬‬ ‫‪Amman has developed into two cities: a western city,‬‬ ‫‪around the neighbourhoods of Jabal Amman, Jabal Weibdeh,‬‬ ‫‪Shmeissani, Um Uzeinah, Um Al Summaq, Abdoun and‬‬ ‫‪Deir Er Rebah, made up of the familiar 4-storey build‬‬‫‪ings surrounded by small gardens, or villas in a variety of‬‬ ‫‪styles (“oriental” with arcades, European with pitched, tiled‬‬ ‫‪roofs, contemporary with geometric shapes and large bay‬‬ ‫‪windows) – all clad in the same sand-coloured stone; and an‬‬ ‫‪eastern city – more dense, comprising buildings of concrete‬‬ ‫‪blocks and cement, with inadequate urban services and‬‬ ‫‪schools which are so crowded they have to run two sessions‬‬ ‫‪a day, and with no playground or green space. Happily I still‬‬ ‫‪see Amman as a colourful, bright city, with bougainvillea‬‬ ‫‪and exuberant jasmine, palm trees and jacarandas, and with‬‬ ‫‪beautiful shiny cars, all counteracting the grey city with its‬‬ ‫‪lines of tired taxi drivers and veiled mothers scuttling along‬‬ ‫‪with children at their heels. In the west, the apartments are‬‬ ‫‪heated in winter, air-conditioned in summer; there are street‬‬ ‫;‪lamps; children have their own room as well as a play area‬‬ ‫‪in the east, apartments are neon-lit, heated by gas stoves,‬‬ ‫‪and mattresses are rolled out at night for the children to‬‬

‫‪Left: Darat Al Funun III‬‬

110

sleep. In spite of the poverty, the mothers care for their children who play in the streets, and the sense of community is stronger than in the western city. From 1980 to 1997 the poorer quarters in the east of the city were rehabilitated – Jordan was the ﬁrst Arab country to implement the new developmentalist idealogy promoted by the World Bank in Latin America and Asia. The local population was involved in all stages of renovating their homes, aided by long-term loans guaranteed by the state. Land ownership was encouraged, along with self-build projects. Job opportunities were created, with half the workforce recruited locally. “Progressive housing” was adopted, whereby buildings were built up around a central unit housing a sanitary area with a water tap, toilet and sewer. For their outstanding work in East Wahdat, the planners of the UDD (now Housing and Urban Development Corporation) were honoured in 1992 with the prestigious Aga Khan award for architecture.

ً ُ َ ّ ّ َ َ‫ﻟﻴﻼ ﻟﻴ‬ ّ ‫ وﻋﻠـﻰ‬.‫ﻨـﺎم ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ اﻷوﻻد‬ َ ‫اﻟﻔ‬ ‫ ﻓـﺈن اﻷﻣﻬﺎت ﺗﻌﺘَﻨﻴﻦ‬،‫اﻟﺮﻏﻢ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻘﺮ‬ ‫ـﺮش‬ ّ ّ َ ّ ‫ﺷـﻌﻮر اﻻﻧﺘﻤﺎء إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﺠﺘﻤﻊ‬ ‫ وﻻ ﺷـﻚ أن‬،‫ﺑﺄوﻻدﻫﻦ اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﻳﻠﻌﺒﻮن ﻓﻲ اﻟﺸـﻮارع‬

.‫ﻫﻮ أﻗﻮى ﻣﻨﻪ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺠﺰء اﻟﻐﺮ ّ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬

َ ُ َ ‫ﻋﻴـﺪ ﺗﺄﻫﻴﻞ اﻷﺣﻴﺎء اﻷﻓﻘﺮ ﻓﻲ ﺷـﺮق اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨـﺔ ﻣﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ‬ ‫ وﺎﻛن‬،‫م‬١٩٩٧‫ و‬١٩٨٠ ‫ﻋﺎﻣـﻲ‬ ‫أ‬ َّ ّ ُ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫أﻳﺪﻳﻮﻟﻮﺟﻴ َﺔ اﻟﺘﻨﻤﻴﺔ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ّ ‫روج ﻟﻬﺎ اﻟﺒﻨﻚ اﻟﺪو‬ ‫ﺑﻠﺪ ﻋﺮ ﻳﻨﻔﺬ‬ ٍ ‫اﻷردن أول‬ ّ ّ َ ّ ّ َ ‫ ﺷﺎرك اﻟﺴﻜﺎن اﻟﻤﺤﻠﻴﻮن ﻓﻲ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ ﻣﺮاﺣﻞ ﺗﺮﻣﻴﻢ ﻣﻨﺎزﻟﻬﻢ‬.‫وآﺳﻴﺎ‬ ِ ‫ﻓﻲ أﻣﻴﺮﺎﻛ اﻟﻼﺗﻴﻨﻴﺔ‬ ُّ ُ ّ ُ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺗﺸـﺠﻊ ﻋﻤﻠﻴﺔ اﻣﺘﻼك‬.‫ﺑﻀﻤﺎن ﻣﻦ اﻟﺪوﻟﺔ‬ ‫ﻗﺮوض ﻃﻮﻳﻠـﺔ اﻷﺟﻞ‬ ‫ﺑﻤﺴـﺎﻋﺪة‬ ٍ ٍ ُ ُ ‫ﻋﻤﻞ‬ ٍ ‫ وﺧ ِﻠﻘﺖ ﻓﺮص‬.‫ ﺑﺎﻹﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﺸـﺎرﻳﻊ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺒﻨﻲ ﻧﻔﺴـﻬﺎ ﺑﻨﻔﺴـﻬﺎ‬،‫اﻷرض‬ ّ َ ّ َ ْ ّ ‫اﻟﺘﻘﺪ‬ ‫ وﻗﺪ اﻋﺘُﻤﺪ ’’اﻟﺴـﻜﻦ‬.‫اﺳـﺘﻘﻄﺒَﺖ ﻧﺼﻒ اﻟﻘﻮى اﻟﻌﺎﻣﻠﺔ ﻣﺤﻠﻴًﺎ‬ ‫ﻣﻲ‘‘ ﺣﻴﺚ‬

ٌ ّ ‫ﻣﺮﻛﺰﻳﺔ ﺗﺤﺘﻮي ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻨﻄﻘﺔ‬ ّ ُ ُ‫ﻛﺎﻧَـﺖ اﻟﻤﺒﺎﻧﻲ ﺗ‬ ‫ﺻﺤ ّﻴ ٍﺔ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﺧﺪﻣﺎت‬ ‫ﻘﺎم ﺣـﻮل وﺣﺪة‬ ِ ُ ّ ّ ‫ وﻷﺟﻞ ﻋﻤﻠﻬﻢ‬.‫ﺻﺤ ّﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺗﻮاﻓﺮ ﺻﻨﺎﺑﻴﺮ اﻟﻤﻴﺎه وﻣﺮاﺣﻴﺾ وأﻧﺎﺑﻴﺐ اﻟﺼﺮف اﻟﺼﺤ ّﻲ‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺨﻄﻄﻴﻦ ﻓﻲ داﺋﺮة اﻟﺘﻄﻮﻳﺮ‬ ‫ ﺟﺮى ﺗﻜﺮﻳﻢ‬،‫اﻟﺸﺮﻗﻴﺔ‬ ‫واﻟﻤﺘﻤﻴﺰ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻮﺣﺪات‬ ‫اﻟﺒﺎرز‬ ّ ّ َ ُ‫اﻟﺤﻀﺮي )اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗ‬ ‫م‬١٩٩٢ ‫اﻟﺤﻀﺮي( ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ ‫ﻌﺮف اﻵن ﺑﻤﺆﺳﺴﺔ اﻹﺳﻜﺎن واﻟﺘﻄﻮﻳﺮ‬ ّ .‫اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎرﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﺑﻤﻨﺤﻬﻢ ﺟﺎﺋﺰة اﻵﻏﺎ ﺧﺎن اﻟﻤﻌﺮوﻓﺔ ﻟﻠﻬﻨﺪﺳﺔ‬

The east city, home to the UNRWA camps of Jabal Hussein and Wahdat and unofficial settlements, has large pockets of poverty. The royal foundations (Jordan River Foundation and JOHUD) play an essential role in supporting the poor, by creating jobs and providing material assistance. Parallel to this, Islamic charitable foundations have developed a very active network in the city since the 1980s (fourteen clinics, two hospitals, fifty schools and fifty-six orphanages).

َ ّ ‫اﻟﺸﺮﻗﻴﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻫﻲ ﻣﺮﻛﺰ‬ ّ ‫ﻣﺨﻴﻤﺎت اﻷوﻧﺮوا )وﺎﻛﻟﺔ ﻏﻮث اﻟﻼﺟﺌﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﻳﻮﺟ ُﺪ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ّ َ َ‫ واﻟﻮﺣﺪات واﻟﻤﺴﺘ‬،‫اﻟﻤﺘﺤﺪة( اﻟﻜﺎﺋﻨﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﺤﺴﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﻮﻃﻨﺎت‬ ‫اﻟﺘﺎﺑﻌﺔ ﻟﻸﻣﻢ‬ ُ ّ ّ ّ ٌ ٌ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻏﻴﺮ‬ ،‫ إن اﻟﻤﺆﺳﺴﺎت اﻟﻤﻠﻜﻴﺔ )ﻣﺆﺳﺴﺔ ﻧﻬﺮ اﻷردن‬.‫ ﺟﻴﻮب ﻛﺒﻴﺮة ﻟﻠﻔﻘﺮ‬-‫اﻟﺮﺳﻤﻴﺔ‬ ُ ْ َ َ ً ّ ُ ً ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻬﺎﺷﻤﻲ‬ ‫واﻟﺼﻨﺪوق‬ ،‫اﻷردﻧﻲ ﻟﻠﺘﻨﻤﻴﺔ اﻟﺒﺸﺮﻳﺔ( ﺗﻠﻌﺐ دورا أﺳﺎﺳﻴﺎ ﻓﻲ دﻋﻢ اﻟﻔﻘﺮاء‬ ّ ّ ّ َ ّ ‫ ﻃﻮر ِت اﻟﻤﺆﺳﺴﺎت‬،‫ وﺑﻤﻮازاة ذﻟﻚ‬.‫وذﻟﻚ ﺑﺘَﻮﻓﻴﺮ اﻟﻮﻇﺎﺋﻒ وﺗﻘﺪﻳﻢ اﻟﻤﺴﺎﻋﺪة اﻟﻤﺎدﻳﺔ‬ ً ً َ ً ّ ّ ّ ‫ﺛﻤﺎﻧﻴﻨﻴﺎت اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻌﺸﺮﻳﻦ‬ ‫اﻹﺳﻼﻣﻴﺔ ﺷﺒﻜﺔ ﻧ ِﺸﻄﺔ ﺟﺪا ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻣﻨﺬ‬ ‫اﻟﺨﻴﺮﻳﺔ‬ َ ً ّ .(‫)أرﺑﻌﺔ ﻋﺸﺮ ﻣﺴﺘَﻮﺻﻔﺎ وﻣﺸﻔﻴﺎن وﺧﻤﺴﻮن ﻣﺪرﺳﺔ وﺳﺘﺔ وﺧﻤﺴﻮن َﻣﻴﺘَ ًﻤﺎ‬

Important private foundations complement the work of the state and the municipality of Amman in the poorest neighbourhoods. In the cultural field, Abd el Hamid Shoman and Darat Al Funun have helped form a generation of Arab artists open to the world. Founded in 2004, the Arab Fund for Sustainable Development (ROWAD) has been the first NGO financed entirely by private Arab capital. This constitutes the first case of civic awareness by wealthy Jordanian businessmen.

ّ ّ َ ّ ‫اﻟﺪوﻟﺔ وأﻣﺎﻧﺔ‬ ّ ‫اﻟﻤ‬ ّ ّ ّ ُ ‫اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻓﻲ اﻷﺣﻴﺎء اﻷﺷﺪ‬ ‫ﻬﻤﺔ ﻋﻤﻞ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺆﺳﺴـﺎت‬ ‫ﺗﻜﻤﻞ‬ ْ َ ّ ‫ت‬ ً ّ ‫ﻣﺆﺳﺴـﺔ ﻋﺒﺪ اﻟﺤﻤﻴﺪ ﺷـﻮﻣﺎن ودارة اﻟﻔﻨﻮن‬ ‫ ﺳـﺎﻋﺪ‬،‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻲ‬ ‫ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺠﺎل‬.‫ﻓﻘﺮا‬ َ َ ّ ّ .‫اﻟﻤﻨﻔﺘﺤﻴﻦ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻢ‬ ‫ﺗﺄﺳ َﺲ اﻟﺼﻨﺪوق‬ ‫ﺟﻴﻞ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻨﺎﻧﻴﻦ اﻟﻌﺮب‬ ِ ٍ ‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﺗﺸﻜﻴﻞ‬ َ ّ ُ ّ ّ ّ ‫ وﺎﻛن أول ﻣﻨﻈﻤﺔ ﻏﻴﺮ ﺣﻜﻮﻣﻴﺔ ﻣﻤﻮﻟﺔ‬،‫م‬٢٠٠٤ ‫اﻟﻌﺮ ّ ﻟﻠﺘﻨﻤﻴﺔ اﻟﻤﺴـﺘﺪاﻣﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻋـﺎم‬ َّ ُ ُّ ّ ّ ‫أول ﺣﺎﻟ ٍﺔ‬ ‫ وﻳﺸﻜﻞ ﻫﺬا اﻷﻣﺮ‬.‫ﺑﺎﻟﻜﺎﻣﻞ ﺑﺮأس ﻣﺎل ﻋﺮ ّ ﺧﺎص‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺪﻧﻲ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻟﻠﻮﻋﻲ‬ ِ ّ .‫ِﻗﺒَﻞ رﺟﺎل اﻷﻋﻤﺎل اﻷردﻧﻴﻴﻦ اﻷﺛﺮﻳﺎء‬

Similarly, the Ammani population itself has been looking after its own: women organise dressmaking workshops; neighbours help each other; extended family networks take in the poor, with the result that Amman has few street children relative to its high proportion of poor.

ّ ّ َ ّ ّ ّ َ ‫ﻳﻨﻈ‬ ‫ﻤﻦ‬ ‫ﺖ اﻟﻨﺴـﺎء‬ ِ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧ‬:‫ ﻛﺎن ﺳـﻜﺎن ﻋﻤﺎن ﻳﻬﺘﻤـﻮن ﺑﺄﻣﻮرﻫـﻢ اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ‬،‫وﺑﺎﻟﻤﺜـﻞ‬ ً ُ ‫ وﺎﻛن اﻟﺠﻴـﺮان ﻳﺴـﺎﻋﺪون‬،‫ورﺷـﺎت ﻋﻤـﻞ ﻟﻠﺨﻴﺎﻃـﺔ‬ ‫ ﻛﻤﺎ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬،‫ﺑﻌﻀﻬـﻢ ﺑﻌﻀـﺎ‬ ٍ ّ ً ُ ّ ُ ُ ‫ وﺎﻛﻧﺖ اﻟﻨﺘﻴﺠﺔ ﻋـﺪدا أﻗﻞ ﻣﻦ أﻃﻔﺎل‬،‫ﺷـﺒﻜﺎت اﻟﻌﺎﺋﻠﺔ اﻟﻤﻤﺘﺪة ﺗﺴـﺎﻋﺪ اﻟﻔﻘـﺮاء‬ ً ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺸﻮارع ﻓﻲ‬ .‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻧﺴﺒﺔ إﻟﻰ ﻣﻌﺪل اﻟﻔﻘﺮاء اﻟﻤﺮﺗﻔﻊ‬

Right: Hero Worship

‫ﻣﻌﺠﺐ ﺑﺎﻟﺒﻄﻞ‬ :‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬ ٌ

111

112

Associations promoting heritage and social occasions include the Friends of Jabal Weibdeh and Jabal Amman Residents Association, JARA. In 2006 two Friday markets were created – one in Jabal Weibdeh, bringing together artisans, painters and antique sellers, and the lively JARA market, where one can buy local food, jewellery, books and more. More recently, Hamzat Wasal was founded by Raghda Boutros, who organises regular events to connect the people with their city. These include walks around Amman, kite-making workshops and debates. A foreigner, half Algerian, half French, I was warmly welcomed by Amman’s inhabitants: landlords, shopkeepers, civil servants, intellectuals and artists, and I am thankful to the diverse people of this city that I love deeply.

Afternoon Nap Right: Off Rainbow Street Next page: Jordan River Foundation

ُ َُ ّ ّ ،‫اﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺠﻤﻌﻴﺎت اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻌﻤﻞ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺗﻌﺰﻳﺰ اﻟﺘﺮاث واﻟﻤﻨﺎﺳﺒﺎت‬ ‫ﺗﺸﻤﻞ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﺳﻜﺎن ﺟﺒﻞ‬ ّ ّ ‫ و‬.(‫ﻋﻤﺎن )ﺟﺎرا‬ ‫وﺟﻤﻌﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺎت ﻣﺜﻞ أﺻﺪﻗﺎء ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒﺪة‬ ٍ ‫ﺟﻤﻌﻴ‬ َ -‫ﺗﺄﺳﺲ ﺳﻮﻗﺎ ﻳﻮم اﻟﺠﻤﻌﺔ‬ ّ ،‫م‬٢٠٠٦ ‫ﻋﺎم‬ ‫ وﻳﺠﻤﻊ ﻣﺎ‬،‫أﺣ ُﺪﻫﻤﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒﺪة‬

ُ ُ ّ َ ‫اﻟﺘ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﺤ‬ ّ ‫واﻟﺮﺳﺎﻣﻴﻦ وﺑﺎﻋﺔ‬ ‫ﺮﻓﻴﻴﻦ‬ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻳﻤﻜﻦ‬،‫اﻟﺤﻴﻮي‬ ‫ وﺳﻮق ﺟﺎرا‬،‫ﺤﻒ‬ ِ ّ ُ َ ْ َ ّ ً ّ ُ ّ َ َ َ ‫ أﺳﺴﺖ‬،‫ وﻣﺆﺧﺮا‬.‫ﻟﻠﻤﺮء أن ﻳﺸﺘﺮي اﻷﻃﻌﻤﺔ اﻟﻤﺤﻠﻴﺔ واﻟﻜﺘﺐ وأﺷﻴﺎء أﺧﺮى‬

ً ّ ّ ‫ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻨﻈﻢ ﺑﺼﻮر ٍة ﻣﻨﺘﻈﻤ ٍﺔ أﺣﺪاﺛﺎ َﻟﺮﺑْﻂ‬،‫ﺟﻤﻌﻴﺔ ﻫﻤﺰة وﺻﻞ‬ ‫رﻏﺪة ﺑﻄﺮس‬ ُ ّ ّ َ ّ ،‫ اﻟﺘﺠﻮل ﻓﻲ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ أﻧﺤﺎء ﻋﻤﺎن‬،‫ وﺗﺸﻤﻞ ﻫﺬه اﻷﺣﺪاث‬.‫اﻟﻨﺎس ﺑﻤﺪﻳﻨﺘﻬﻢ‬

ّ .‫ وإﻗﺎﻣﺔ اﻟﺤﻮارات‬،‫اﻟﻮرﻗﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﻞ ﻟﺼﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﻄﺎﺋﺮات‬ ‫وورش‬ ٍ

ًّ ُ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﺎن‬ ّ َ ‫رﺣ‬ ‫ﺟﺰاﺋﺮﻳﺔ وﻧﺼﻒ‬ ‫ ﻧﺼﻒ‬،‫أﺟﻨﺒﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﺑﻲ ﺑﺤﺮارة ﻛﻮﻰﻳ‬ ‫ﺐ ﺳﻜ‬ ‫ﻟﻘﺪ‬ ّ ُ ُ ّ ،‫ وﻣﻮﻇﻔﻮ اﻟﻘﻄﺎع اﻟﻌﺎم‬،‫ وأﺻﺤﺎب اﻟﻤﺘﺎﺟﺮ‬،‫ أﺻﺤﺎب اﻟﻌﻘﺎرات‬:‫ﻓﺮﻧﺴﻴﺔ‬ ّ ّ َ ُ‫ وأﻧﺎ أﺷﻌﺮ ﺑﺎﻟﻌﺮﻓﺎن ﺗ‬،‫واﻟﻔﻨﺎﻧﻮن‬ ‫واﻟﻤﺜﻘﻔﻮن‬ ‫ﺠﺎه ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻒ اﻟﻨﺎس ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬه‬ ً ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ‬ .‫أﻛﻦ ﻟﻬﺎ ﺣﺒًﺎ ﻋﻤﻴﻘﺎ‬

ّ ‫ﻏﻔﻮﺓ ﻣﺎ ﺑﻌﺪ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﻈﻬﺮ‬ ‫ ﻣﻦ ﺷﺎﺭﻉ ﺍﻟﺮﻳﻨﺒﻮ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬ ‫ﻣﺆﺳﺴﺔ ﻧﻬﺮ ﺍﻷﺭﺩﻥ‬ ّ :‫ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

113

114

115

َ ً ُ ‫ﻣﻜﺎن آﺧﺮ‬ ‫ﻛﺎن اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﺑﻌﻴﺪا و‬ ٍ

Tessa Fairbairn |

Time was away and somewhere else…

Amman, a city of liminal loveliness, where the white on wheaten walls tower over the spring-green-red hills, home to countless goats and bands of somnambulant fixated sheep. A city built on the stony hills of an ancient land where camels lift their arrogant noses to the sky, smiling at the impatient drivers anxious to change lanes yet another time. As old as time itself and as new as tomorrow, Amman is a city of genuine kindness and fierce competition, a city where strangers meet as East and West to argue, to agree, to laugh, to cry. Where all is quietly, politely possible and the impossible is but a passing shadow on the sunlit wall. At dawn, the Eastern sun streams in between the old and the new pastel-soft, stone buildings. Elegant garden walls in Jabal Amman and Jabal Weibdeh look down on the frantic, frenetic streets of the city center. Such overwhelmingly busy streets bleed out into the arteries that surround the city, diving into numerous tunnels and constantly cornering the circles. At noon, the sun sits firmly on the buildings. It is golden in the reflective glass windows of the high rise blocks as, taller and taller, they reach to the sky. But, it is as the sun settles into the West that flocks of homing birds take to the freedom of the sky, circling minaret and steeple to the ancient sound of the call to prayer; it is then that the shapes of this intricate, jigsaw city edge into sharp focus. They are without shadow. They are firmly rooted, centered, real and home to a diversity of cultures, philosophies, thoughts and dreams. The darkened windows in each of the square, oblong, rectangular buildings hold Amman’s secret: her spiritually and intellectually rich population. The juxtaposition of shape in the architecture of this city-on-hills is mirrored in the mosaic of her men, women and children: whimsical, flirty, light, solid, sensible and serious, Amman’s generous people can be heard in every café, at each corner and over the cacophony of traffic talk. A tapestry of humanity within a circle of antiquity, yesterday, today and tomorrow, time is captured in the shape and shadow of this sunlit, wheaten, white, stone city where birds wheel as the light fades. Darkness falls as navy-blue oil, seeping

Left : Gallery View

ٌ ُ ّ ّ ‫ﺣﻨﻄﻴﺔ‬ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻳﻌﻠﻮ اﻷﺑﻴﺾ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺪراﻧﻬﺎ‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻋﺘﺒﺔ اﻟﺴﺤﺮ واﻟﺠﻤﺎل‬ ٌ ‫ﻣﺮﺗـﻊ ﻟﻌـﺪ ٍد ﻻ ﻳُﺤﺼﻰ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ وﻫﻲ‬،‫اﻟﻠـﻮن ﻓﻮق ﺗـﻼل اﻟﺮﺑﻴـﻊ اﻟﺨﻀﺮاء واﻟﺤﻤـﺮاء‬ َ .‫ﻏﻠﺐ ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ اﻟﻨﻌﺎس ﻓﻲ أﺛﻨﺎء ﻣﺴـﻴﺮﻫﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺨـﺮاف وﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋـﺎت ٍﻣﻦ اﻷﻏﻨﺎم اﻟﺘـﻲ‬

َ ُ ْ َ ُ ّ ُ ‫اﻟﺠﻤﺎل أﻧﻮﻓﻬﺎ‬ ٍ ‫ﺑﻨﻴﺖ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺘﻼل اﻟﺤﺠﺮﻳﺔ‬ ِ ‫ﻷرض ﻗﺪﻳﻤﺔ ﺣﻴﺚ ﺗﺮﻓﻊ‬ ّ َ‫ﺑﺘ‬ َ ‫اﻻﻧﺘﻈﺎر واﻟﻤﺘﻠﻬﻔﻴﻦ إﻟﻰ‬ ‫ﻌﺠﺮف إﻟﻰ اﻟﺴـﻤﺎء وﺗﺒﺘﺴـﻢ ﻟﻠﺴﺎﺋﻘﻴﻦ اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﺳـﺌﻤﻮا‬ ٍ ّ ٌ َ ٌ ًّ ّ ‫ﺗﻐﻴﻴﺮ‬ .‫ إﻧﻬﺎ ﻗﺪﻳﻤﺔ ﻗِﺪم اﻟﺰﻣﻦ ﻧﻔﺴـﻪ وﺟﺪﻳﺪة ﻣﺜﻞ اﻟﻐﺪ‬.‫ﻣﺮة أﺧﺮى‬ ‫ﺧﻂ ﻣﺴـﺎرﻫﻢ‬ ّ ُ َ ّ ّ ‫ ﻛﻤﺎ‬،‫ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻳﺠﺘﻤـﻊ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ اﻟﻐﺮﺑﺎء‬،‫إﻧﻬﺎ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ اﻟﻠﻄﻒ اﻟﺼﺎدق واﻟﻤﻨﺎﻓﺴـﺔ اﻟﺸﺮﺳـﺔ‬ ٌ ّ ّ ُ ّ ُ ‫ إﻧﻬـﺎ ﻣﻜﺎن ﺣﻴﺚ‬.‫ﻳﺠﺘﻤـﻊ اﻟﺸـﺮق واﻟﻐﺮب ﻟﻠﺠﺪال واﻻﺗﻔـﺎق واﻟﻀ ِﺤﻚ واﻟﺒﻜﺎء‬ ّ ٌ ّ ُ ُ ُ ٌ ‫وﺣﻴﺚ اﻟﻤﺴـﺘﺤﻴﻞ ﻣﺎ ﻫﻮ إﻻ ﻇﻞ‬ ‫ﻋﺎﺑﺮ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ،‫ﺟﻤﻴﻊ اﻷﺷـﻴﺎء ﻣﻤﻜﻨﺔ ﺑﻬﺪو ٍء وﻟﺒﺎﻗﺔ‬ ُ .‫اﻟﺠﺪار اﻟﺬي ﺗﻀﻴﺌﻪ اﻟﺸﻤﺲ‬ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺤﺠﺮﻳـﺔ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺸـﺮﻗﻴﺔ ﺑﻴـﻦ اﻟﻤﺒﺎﻧـﻲ‬ ‫أﺷـﻌﺔ اﻟﺸـﻤﺲ‬ ‫ ﺗﺘﺪﻓ ُﻖ‬،‫ﻋﻨـﺪ اﻟﻔﺠﺮ‬ ّ ُ ُ ّ ‫ﺟﺪران اﻟﺤﺪاﺋـﻖ اﻷﻧﻴﻘﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺒﻞ‬ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن وﺟﺒﻞ‬ ‫ وﺗﻄﻞ‬.‫واﻟﺠﺪﻳـﺪة اﻟﻔﺎﺗﺤﺔ اﻟﻠﻮن‬

‫ ﻫﺬه‬.‫اﻟﻠﻮﻳﺒﺪة إﻟﻰ اﻷﺳـﻔﻞ إﻟﻰ ﺷـﻮارع وﺳـﻂ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ اﻟﻤﺤﻤﻮﻣﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻐﺔ اﻟﻨﺸـﺎط‬ ُ ُ ّ ُ ‫اﻟﺸـﻮارع اﻟﻤﺰدﺣﻤﺔ‬ ،‫ﺑﺸـﻜﻞ ﻛﺎﺳـﺢ ﺗﻀﺦ ﻓـﻲ اﻟﺸـﺮاﻳﻴﻦ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺤﻴـﻂ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ ٍ ّ ُ ُ ‫ﺗﺠﺜﻢ‬ ،‫ ﻋﻨﺪ اﻟﻈﻬـﺮ‬.‫أﻧﻔـﺎق ﻋﺪﻳﺪ ٍة وﺗﻠﺘﻒ ﺣـﻮل اﻟﺪواﺋﺮ ﺑﺎﺳـﺘﻤﺮار‬ ‫وﺗﻐـﻮص ﻓـﻲ‬ ٍ ُ ُ َ ّ ّ َ ‫ﻟﺘﻨﻌﻜـﺲ ﻋﻠﻰ زﺟﺎج‬ ‫اﻟﺬﻫﺒﻴﺔ‬ ‫أﺷـﻌﺘﻬﺎ‬ ‫ وﺗﺮﺳـﻞ‬.‫ﺒـﺎت ﻋﻠـﻰ اﻟﻤﺒﺎﻧﻲ‬ ٍ ‫اﻟﺸـﻤﺲ ﺑﺜ‬ ْ ْ ‫ﻟﻜﻦ ﻣﺎ إن‬ .‫اﻟﻨﻮاﻓﺬ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺒﻨﺎﻳﺎت اﻟﺸـﺎﻫﻘﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻌﻠﻮ وﺗﻌﻠﻮ ﻟﺘَﺼﻞ ﻋﻨﺎن اﻟﺴـﻤﺎء‬ ّ ُ ُ ُ ُ ّ ‫ ﺗﺪور ﺣﻮل‬،‫اﻟﺤﺮ ّﻳﺔ‬ ‫أﺳﺮاب اﻟﻄﻴﻮر اﻟﺰاﺟﻠﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺳﻤﺎء‬ ‫ﺗﻨﻄﻠﻖ‬ ‫اﻟﺸـﻤﺲ ﺣﺘﻰ‬ ‫ﺗﻐﻴﺐ‬ ّ ‫ﺗﺘﺤﺮ ُك‬ ‫ﻋﻨﺪﺋﺬ‬ ،‫اﻟﻤﺌﺬﻧﺔ وﺑﺮج اﻟﻜﻨﻴﺴـﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺻﻮت اﻟﺪﻋﻮة اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺼﻼة‬ ٍ ُ ً ً ُ ّ َ ‫اﻟﻤﺘﻘﻄﻌﺔ ﻧﺤـﻮ ﺑﻌﻀﻬﺎ ﺑﻌﻀـﺎ ﻟﺘﻌﻄﻲ ﺻﻮرة‬ ‫أﺷـﻜﺎل ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨـﺔ اﻟﻤﺘﺸـﺎﺑﻜﺔ‬ ُ ّ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﻣﻮﻃﻦ‬ ُ ‫ﺗﻨﻮع‬ ‫ وﻫﻲ‬،‫وﺣﻘﻴﻘﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﺤﻮرﻳﺔ‬ ‫ وﻫﻲ راﺳﺨﺔ اﻟﺠﺬور‬،‫ إﻧﻬﺎ دون ﻇﻼل‬.‫ﺟﻠﻴﺔ‬

.‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺎت واﻟﻔﻠﺴﻔﺎت واﻷﻓﻜﺎر واﻷﺣﻼم‬

َ َ ّ ً ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺮﺑﻌﺔ واﻟﻤﻨﺤﺮﻓﺔ واﻟﻤﺴﺘﻄﻴﻠﺔ‬ ‫إن اﻟﻨﻮاﻓﺬ اﻟﻤﻈﻠﻤﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻛﻞ ﻣﺒﻨﻰ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﺒﺎﻧﻲ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﺳﺮ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻫﻲ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺤﻤﻞ‬ ُ ّ ‫اﻷﺷﻜﺎل ﻓﻲ‬ ‫وﺗﺠﺎو ُر‬ .‫واﻟﻔﻜﺮي‬ ‫اﻟﺮوﺣﻲ‬ ‫ ﻏﻨﻰ ﺳﻜﺎﻧﻬﺎ‬:‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ِ ُ ّ ‫اﻷﺳﻠﻮب‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎري ﻟﻬﺬه اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺮﺑﺾ ﻓﻮق اﻟﺘﻼل ﻳﻨﻌﻜﺲ ﻓﻲ ﻓ َﺴﻴﻔﺴﺎء‬ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫ إن ﺳﻜﺎن ﻋﻤﺎن ﻣﺘﻘﻠﺒﻮ اﻷﻣﺰﺟﺔ وﻋﺎﺑِﺜﻮن وﺧﻔﻴﻔﻮ‬.‫رﺟﺎﻟﻬﺎ وﻧﺴﺎﺋﻬﺎ وأﻃﻔﺎﻟﻬﺎ‬ ّ ُ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﺳﻜﺎن‬ ُ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن اﻟﻜﺮﻣﺎء ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ ﻳﻤﻜﻦ ﺳﻤﺎع‬.‫وراﺟﺤﻮ اﻟﻌﻘﻞ وﺟﺎدون‬ ‫وأﻗﻮﻳﺎء‬ ‫اﻟﻈﻞ‬ ِ ّ ّ َ ُ .‫ وﺗﺘﻨﺎﻓ ُﺮ أﺻﻮاﺗﻬﻢ ﻋﻨﺪ اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺚ ﺑﺸﺄن ﺣﺮﻛﺔ اﻟﻤﺮور‬،‫ﻛﻞ ﻣﻘﻬﻰ و ﻛﻞ زاوﻳﺔ‬ ُ ٌ ّ ‫ﻧﺴﻴﺞ‬ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻧﺮى‬،‫إﻧﺴﺎﻧﻲ ﺿﻤﻦ داﺋﺮة اﻟﻌﺼﻮر اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤﺔ واﻷﻣﺲ واﻟﻴﻮم واﻟﻐﺪ‬ ّ َ ّ ‫اﻟﺤﻨﻄﻴﺔ‬ ‫ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ذات اﻟﺤﺠﺎرة‬-‫ﺻﻮرة اﻟﺰﻣﻦ ﻓﻲ ﺷﻜﻞ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ وﻇﻠﻬﺎ‬

‫ ﻣﺸﻬﺪ ﻣﻦ ﺍﻟﻤﻌﺮﺽ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﺴﺎﺭ‬

‫ﺗﻴﺴﺎ ﻓﺮﻴﺑﺮﻴن‬

118

into the cracks. Thick and tangible, it lies still as the hills light up, sparkly in the starlight - over all, the enormity of each evening’s moon presides. “Time (is) away and somewhere else” as today fades to the expectation of tomorrow’s loveliness and I, a privileged visitor, cling to my corner overlooking this gentle city on seven hills, with thoughts of subtle, timeless shadows moving on my mind. “Time was away and somewhere else…” from Meeting Point by Louis MacNeice

Bougainvillea Nap Right: Sketch of West Amman From Wadi Al Seer Next page: Amman's Patchwork Hills

ّ ُ ُ ُ ُ ‫اﻟﺒﻴﻀﺎء اﻟﺘﻲ ﻳُﻀﻴﺌُﻬﺎ‬ ‫ ﻳﺤﻞ‬.‫اﻟﻄﻴﻮر ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻳﺘَﻼﺷﻰ اﻟﻨﻮر‬ ‫ﺗﺪور‬ ‫ وﺣﻴﺚ‬،‫ﻧﻮر اﻟﺸﻤﺲ‬ ً ُ ّ .‫وﻳﻨﺴﺎب ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﺸﻘﻮق‬ ً ُ ‫وﻣﺤﺴﻮﺳﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﻈﻼم ﻛﺜﻴﻔﺎ‬ ‫ﻳﺨﻴﻢ‬ ‫اﻟﻈﻼم ﻣﺜﻞ اﻟﺰﻳﺖ اﻟﻘﺎﺗﻢ‬ ُ َ ً ّ َ ‫ إن ﺿﺨﺎﻣﺔ‬،‫ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻌﻤﻮم‬.‫ ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﺗﺒﺪو اﻟﺘﻼل ﻻﻣﻌﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺿﻮء اﻟﻨﺠﻮم‬،‫ﻓﻲ ﺳﻜﻮن‬ ّ ‫ﻗﻤﺮ ﻛﻞ ﻟﻴﻠ ٍﺔ ﻫﻮ‬ .‫اﻟﻤﺴﻴﻄﺮ‬ ِ ِ َ ٌ ُ ُ َ ُ‫اﻟﻴﻮم ﻟﻴ‬ ‫ﻔﺴﺢ اﻟﻤﺠﺎل أﻣﺎم‬ ‫ﻣﻜﺎن آﺧﺮ‘‘ ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻳﺘَﻼﺷﻰ‬ ‫’’اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﺑﻌﻴﺪ و‬ ٍ ّ ُ ّ َ ُ ّ ‫أﺗﺸﺒﺚ ﺑﺰاوﻳﺘﻲ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻄﻞ‬ ،‫ اﻟﺰاﺋﺮة ذات اﻻﻣﺘﻴﺎز‬،‫ وأﻧﺎ‬،‫ﻌﺎت ﻟﻐ ٍﺪ ﺳﺎﺣﺮ‬ ٍ ‫ﺗﻮﻗ‬ ّ ُ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺨﻔﻴﺔ‬ ‫وأﻓﻜﺎر اﻟﻈﻼل‬ ،‫ﺗﻼل‬ ‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ اﻟﻮادﻋﺔ اﻟﻮاﻗﻌﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺳﺒﻊ‬ ٍ ّ ‫اﻟﺨﺎﻟﺪة‬ .‫ﺗﺘﺤﺮك ﻓﻲ ذﻫﻨﻲ‬

(‫ﻏﻔﻮﺓ ﺍﻟﺒﻮﻏﻴﻨﻔﻴﻠﻴﺎ )ﺍﻟﻤﺠﻨﻮﻧﺔ‬ ‫ﺍﻟﺴﻴﺮ‬ ّ ‫ ﺳﻜﺘﺶ ﻋ ّﻤﺎﻥ ﺍﻟﻐﺮﺑﻴّﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻭﺍﺩﻱ‬:‫ﺇﻟﻰ ﺍﻟﻴﻤﻴﻦ‬ ‫ ﺗﻼﻝ ﻋ ّﻤﺎﻥ ﺍﻟﻤﺮ ّﻗﻌﺔ‬:‫ﺍﻟﺼﻔﺤﺔ ﺍﻟﺘﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

119

120

The view across many of the hillsides of Amman presents the viewer with a wonderful array of patchwork as the ochres and beiges of the house walls contrast with the tiled roofs and the highlights of the pines poking through.

ّ ّ ً ّ ‫اﻟﻤﻨﻈﺮ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﻮاﻧﺐ ﺗﻼل‬ َ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻳﻘﺪ ُم إﻟﻰ اﻟﻨﺎﻇﺮ ﻋﺮﺿﺎ‬ ‫إن‬ ً ُ ُ ّ ‫ﻣﺬﻫﻼ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ اﻟﺘﺒﺎﻓ ُﻦ ﻣﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ درﺟﺎت اﻷﻟﻮان‬،‫اﻟﺮﻗﻊ‬ ّ ‫ ﻣﻊ‬،‫اﻟﺘﺮاﺑﻴﺔ ودرﺟــﺎت اﻟﭙﻴﺞ ﻷﺳﻮار اﻟﻤﻨﺎزل ﻣﻦ ﺟﻬﺔ‬ ّ ّ ُ َ ‫ﻣﻜﺎن‬ ‫اﻷﺳﻘﻒ اﻟﻤﺒﻠﻄﺔ وأﻏﺼﺎن اﻟﺼﻨﻮﺑﺮ اﻟﻤﻨﺘﺸﺮة ﻓﻲ ﻛﻞ‬ ٍ ُ .‫ﻣﻦ ﺟﻬ ٍﺔ أﺧﺮى‬

121

ٌ ّ ‫ﻧﺒﺬة ﻋﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﺮﺳﺎم‬

About the Painter

َّ ً ‫ﺷﻤﻠﺖ ﻣﻬﻨﺔ ﺑﻴﺘﺮ ﻟﻮرﻧﺲ اﻟﻄﻮﻳﻠﺔ ﻛﻤﻬﻨﺪس ﻣﻴﺎه وﺑﻴﺌﺔ‬ ‫أﺳﻔﺎرا ﻣﻤﺘﺪة ﻓﻲ أرﺟﺎء اﻟﺸﺮق‬ ،‫اﻷوﺳﻂ‬ ‫وﻓﺘﺮات ﻣﻦ اﻹﻗﺎﻣﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻤﻠﻜﺔ اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ اﻟﺴﻌﻮدﻳﺔ وﻣﺼﺮ واﻹﻣﺎرات اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ‬ ٍ ّ ‫ﻷول‬ ّ ‫ وﺎﻛن ﻗﺪ زار اﻷردن‬.‫اﻟﻤﺘﺤﺪة واﻷردن‬ ‫ ﻟﻴﺼﺒﺢ ﻓﻲ ﻧﻬﺎﻳﺔ اﻟﻤﻄﺎف‬١٩٨٥ ‫ﻣﺮة ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ ً .٢٠١٠ ‫ﻣﻘﻴﻤﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬

Peter Lawrence’s long career as a water and environmental engineer has involved extensive travel throughout the Middle East and periods of residence in Saudi Arabia, Egypt, UAE and Jordan. He ﬁrst visited Jordan in 1985, ﬁnally becoming a resident in 2010.

ً ّ َّ ‫ﻟﻜﻨﻪ‬ ‫ وﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﻛﺎن‬،‫ﺗﻄﻮر ﻟﻴﺼﺒﺢ ﺷﻐﻔﺎ‬ ،‫ﺑﺪأ اﻟﺮﺳﻢ ﺑﺎﻷﻟﻮان اﻟﻤﺎﺋﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺒﺪاﻳﺔ ﻛﻬﻮاﻳﺔ‬ ّ ‫ ﺷﺎرك ﻣﺎﻳﻚ ﺷﻴﺒﻠﻲ ﻓﻲ ﺗﺄﻟﻴـﻒ ﻛﺘﺎب ﻳﺘﻀـﻤﻦ رﺳﻮﻣﺎت وﺣﻜﺎﻳﺎت‬،‫ﻳﻌﻴﺶ ﻓﻲ دﺑﻲ‬ َ ّ ّ ‘‘‫ ﺗﺄﻣﻼت ﻓﻨﺎﻧﻴﻦ‬- ‫ ’’اﻟﺨﻠﻴﺞ وﻣﺎ وراءه‬،‫ﻗﺼﻴـﺮة ﻋﻦ ﺳﻔﺮاﺗﻬﻤﺎ ﺣﻮل اﻟﺸﺮق اﻷوﺳﻂ‬ .(٢٠٠٧ ،Motivate ‫)دار ﻧﺸﺮ‬

Watercolour painting began as a hobby but has developed into a passion, and while living in Dubai, he co-authored, with Mike Shepley, a book of paintings and anecdotes about their travels around the Middle East, Al Khaleej and beyond – reﬂections of two artists (Motivate Publishing, 2007).

ّ ّ ‫ ﺣﺘﻰ ﺑﺪأ ﻓﻲ اﻻﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎف واﻟﺘﺼﻮﻳﺮ ووﺿﻊ اﻟﺮﺳﻮم‬،‫ﻣﺎ أن اﻧﺘﻘﻞ إﻟﻰ اﻷردن‬ ‫اﻟﺘﺨﻄﻴﻄﻴﺔ‬ َْ ّ ‫ وﺟﻤﻊ ﻫﺬه‬،‫اﻟﻐﻨﻲ وﺣﻴﺎﺗﻪ اﻟﻨﺒﺎﺗﻴﺔ واﻟﺤﻴﻮاﻧﻴﺔ وﺳﻜﺎﻧﻪ‬ ‫ورﺳﻢ ﻣﻨﺎﻇﺮه اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﻴﺔ وﺗﺮاﺛﻪ اﻷﺛﺮي‬ ّ ‫( وﺗﻼه اﻵن ﻛﺘﺎب ’’اﻧﻄﺒﺎﻋﺎت‬٢٠١٢ ،‫ﻛﻠﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻛﺘﺎب ’’أﻟﻮان اﻷردن‘‘ )دار ﻧﺸﺮ ﺟﺒﻞ ﻋﻤﺎن‬ .٢٠١٢ ‫ﻋﻦ ﻋﻤﺎن‘‘ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬

As soon as he moved to Jordan, he began exploring, photographing, sketching and painting its landscapes, its rich archaeological heritage, its ﬂora and fauna and its people, and brought all these together in Colours of Jordan (Jabal Amman Publishers, 2011), now followed by Impressions of Amman in 2012.

‫ ﻣﻌﺎرض ﻓﺮدﻳّﺔ وﻣﻌﺎرض ﻣﺸﺘﺮﻛﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻤﻠﻜﺔ اﻟﻤﺘﺤﺪة‬:‫ﺗﺸﻤﻞ ﻣﻌﺎرض ﺑﻴﺘﺮ ﻣﺎ ﻳﻠﻲ‬ ‫؛‬٢٠٠٧ ‘‘‫ ﺑﻤﺎ ﻓﻲ ذﻟﻚ ﻣﻌﺮض ﻣﺸﺘﺮك ﻹﻃﻼق ﻛﺘﺎب ’’اﻟﺨﻠﻴﺞ وﻣﺎ وراءه‬،‫ودﺑﻲ‬ ‫ﻣﻌﺎرض ﻣﻨﻔﺮدة ﻹﻃﻼق ’’أﻟﻮان اﻷردن‘‘ – ﻣﺮﻛﺰ اﻟﻤﻠﻚ ﺣﺴﻴﻦ اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻲ وﻓﻨﺪق‬ ّ ،‫اﻟﻔﻨﻴﺔ‬ ّ ّ ،‫إﻧﺘﺮﻛﻮﻧﺘﻴﻨﻨﺘﺎل‬ – ٢٠١٠ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫؛ ﺻﺎﻻت ﻋﺮض ﺟﺎﻛﺎراﻧﺪا واورﻓﻠﻲ‬٢٠١١ ،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ّ ّ ّ َ ُ‫ ﺗ‬.٢٠١٢ ‫ﻌﺮض أﻋﻤﺎﻟﻪ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻌﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺪور واﻟﻤﻘﺮات ﻓﻲ اﻹﻣﺎرات اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ اﻟﻤﺘﺤﺪة و‬ .‫ وﻛﺬﻟﻚ ﻓﻲ ﻓﻨﺪق اﻟﺸﺎرﻗﺔ‬،‫اﻷردن‬

Peter’s exhibitions include: solo and shared exhibitions in UK and Dubai, including a joint exhibition to launch Al Khaleej and beyond 2007; solo exhibitions to launch Colours of Jordan – King Hussein Cultural Centre and the Intercontinental Hotel, Amman, 2011; Jacaranda and Orfali Galleries, Amman, 2010-12. His work is displayed in many homes and oﬃces in the UAE, Europe and Jordan as well as in a hotel in Sharjah.

Preface |

ّ ‫ﻣﺤﻤــﺪ ﺟﺮداﻧـــﺔ‬

ّ ‫ ﻣﻦ ﻣﻮاﻟﻴﺪ‬.‫اﻟﺮﻳﺎدﻳﻴﻦ ﻓﻲ اﻷردن‬ ّ ‫ ﺷﻐﻔﻪ‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ﻫﻮ أﺣﺪ رﺟﺎل اﻷﻋﻤﺎل‬ ُ ّ ً ‫ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻣﺎزال‬ ّ ‫ﻗﺎﺋﻤﺎ وﻛﺬﻟﻚ ﺗﻤﺴﻜﻪ ﺑﻤﺒﺎدئ اﻟﺘﺴﺎﻣﺢ واﻟﻘﺒﻮل اﻟﺘﻲ أﺳﺴﺖ‬ ّ ّ ً ّ ‫ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ‬ .‫ ﺣﻘﻖ ﻧﺠﺎﺣﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﺎﻻت ﻋﺪة ﻛﺎﻟﻬﻨﺪﺳﺔ واﻟﺘﺄﻣﻴﻦ واﻟﺼﻨﺎﻋﺔ‬.‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ّ ّ ‫ اﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ اﻟﺪوﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﺮاﺋﺪة ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﺎل‬،‫وﻫﻮ اﻟﺸﺮﻳﻚ اﻟﻤﺆﺳﺲ ﻷراﺑﺘﻚ ﺟﺮداﻧﺔ‬ ّ ً ‫ وﺷﻐﻞ‬،‫رﺋﻴﺴﺎ ﻟﻨﻘﺎﺑﺔ اﻟﻤﻬﻨﺪﺳﻴﻦ اﻷردﻧﻴﻴﻦ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎن‬.‫اﻟﻬﻨﺪﺳﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻻﺳﺘﺸﺎرات‬ َ ّ َ ‫ ﺑﺎﻹﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ ﻗﻤﻠﻪ‬،‫ﻣﻨﺼﺐ ﻋﻀﻮ ﻣﺠﻠﺲ أﻣﺎﻧﺔ ﻋﻤﺎن ﻟﺪورﺗﻴﻦ ﻣﻨﻔﺼﻠﺘﻴﻦ‬ ّ ّ .‫اﻟﻤﺪﻧﻲ‬ ‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﻌﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﻦ ﻣﺠﺎﻟﺲ إدارة ﻣﻨﻈﻤﺎت اﻟﻤﺠﺘﻤﻊ‬

Contributing Authors |

‫ﺟـﺮﻳِﺲ ﺳﻤـﺎوي‬ ِ

َ ٌ ٌ ّ ّ ّ ‫ وﻗﺪ ﺷﻐﻞ ﻣﻨﺼﺐ وزﻳﺮ‬،‫أردﻧﻲ‬ ‫وﺳﻴﺎﺳﻲ‬ ‫وإﻋﻼﻣﻲ‬ ‫وﺎﻛﺗﺐ‬ ‫ﺷﺎﻋﺮ‬ ‫ﺟﺮﻳﺲ ﺳﻤﺎوي‬ َ َ َ ّ‫اﻹﻧﻜﻠﻴﺰي واﻟﻔﻠﺴﻔﺔ وﻓﻦ‬ ّ ‫ درس ﻓﻲ أﻣﻴﺮﺎﻛ واﻷردن اﻷدب‬.‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ اﻷﺳﺒﻖ‬ ّ ّ ّ َ ّ ‫ ﻋﻤﻞ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺘﻠﻔﺰﻳﻮن اﻷردﻧﻲ ُﻋ‬.‫اﻹﻋﻼﻣﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺎم‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺪﻳﺮ‬ ‫ﻣﻨﺼﺐ‬ ‫ﺷﻐﻞ‬ ‫ﻢ‬ ‫اﻻﺗﺼﺎﻻت‬ ِ َ ً ُّ ّ ً ً ‫ ﻛﻤﺎ ﻋﻤﻞ‬،‫ﻟﻤﻬﺮﺟﺎن ﺟﺮش‬ ‫ ﻋﻢ أﻣﻴﻨﺎ ﻋﺎﻣﺎ ﻟﻮزارة‬،‫ﻣﺤﺎﺿﺮا ﻓﻲ اﻟﺠﺎﻣﻌﺔ اﻷردﻧﻴﺔ‬ ِ ٌَّ ُ ٌ ّ ً ُ ّ ‫’’زﻟﺔ‬ ‫ﺷﻌﺮي ﻋﻨﻮاﻧﻪ‬ ‫ ﻟﻪ دﻳﻮان‬.‫م‬٢٠١١ ‫وزﻳﺮا ﻟﻠﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ ‫ وﺑﻌﺪﻫﺎ ﻗ ّﻴﻦ‬،‫اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ‬ ُ ُ ّ ،‫ وﻧ ِﺸ َﺮ ﺑﺎﻹﺳﺒﺎﻧﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻛﻮﺳﺘﺎرﻳﻜﺎ‬،‫أﺧﺮى ﻟﻠﺤﻜﻤﺔ‘‘ ﻧ ِﺸ َﺮ ﻓﻲ ﺑﻴﺮوت واﻟﻘﺎﻫﺮة‬ ّ ُّ ّ ْ َ ُ ّ ُ ‫ وﻗﺪﻣﺖ ﻋﻦ ﺷﻌﺮه ﻋﺪة‬،‫ﻟﻐﺎت ﻋﺪة‬ ‫أﺷﻌﺎره إﻟﻰ‬ ‫ﺮﺟﻤﺖ‬ ‫ ﺗ‬.‫وﺑﺎﻟﺘﺮﻛﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ إﺳﺘﺎﻧﺒﻮل‬ ٍ َ ّ .‫رﺳﺎﺋﻞ ﺟﺎﻣﻌﻴﺔ‬

‫ﺳﻬﻴــﻞ ﺑﺸـﺎرات‬

َّ ّ ‫ ﻗﺒﻞ أن‬،‫ﻛﺎن ﺳﻬﻴﻞ ﺑﺸﺎرات ﺟﻴﻮﻟﻮﺟﻴًﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﺎل ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﻨﻔﻂ‬ ‫ﻣﻌﺮض‬ ‫أول‬ ‫ﻳﺆﺳﺲ‬ ٍ َ ّ ّ ّ ّ‫ﺷﻐﻞ ﻣﻨﺼﺐ ﻣﺪﻳﺮ اﻟﻤﻌﺮض اﻟﻮﻃﻨﻲ‬ ‫ﻓﻨ ّﻲ‬ ‫ وﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ‬.‫م‬١٩٧٨ ‫ﺗﺠﺎري ﺧﺎص ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ ّ َ ّ ّ ّ ‫ ﻋﻤﻞ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﻤﻊ اﻟﻤﺠﻤﻮﻋﺎت اﻟﻔﻨﻴﺔ اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﻌﺮض‬،‫اﻷردﻧﻲ ﻟﻠﻔﻨﻮن اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻠﺔ‬ ً ١٢ ‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺪى‬ ‫ ﻳﺤﻤﻞ ﺷﻬﺎدة اﻟﻤﺎﺟﺴﺘﻴﺮ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺘﺎﺣﻒ ودراﺳﺎت اﻟﺸﺮق‬.‫ﻋﺎﻣﺎ‬ ّ َ ‫ ووﺳﺎم ﺣﺎرس‬،‫وﺳﺎم ﻓﺎرس ﺟﻮﻗﺔ اﻟﺸﺮف ﻣﻦ ﻓﺮﻧﺴﺎ‬ ‫ ﺗﻘﻠﺪ‬.‫اﻷدﻧﻰ ﻣﻦ ﻧﻴﻮﻳﻮرك‬ .‫اﻟﻨﺠﻢ اﻟﻘﻄﺒﻲ ﻣﻦ ﻣﻠﻚ اﻟﺴﻮﻳﺪ ﻏﻮﺳﺘﺎف ﻋﻠﻰ إﺳﻬﺎﻣﺎﺗﻪ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﺎل اﻟﻔﻨﻮن‬

‫ﺟﺎﻳـﻦ ﺗﺎﻳـﻠﻮر‬

ْ َ ُ ‫ﺖ ﺟﺎﻳﻦ ﺗﺎﻳﻠﻮر درﺟﺔ اﻟﺒﻜﺎﻟﻮرﻳﻮس ﻓﻲ ﺗﺎرﻳﺦ اﻟﻌﺼﻮر‬ ‫اﻟﻮﺳﻄﻰ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﺑﻌﺪ أن ﻧﺎﻟ‬ َ َ ً ّ ً ‫ وﻣﻨﺘﺠﺔ ﺑﺮاﻣﺞ‬،‫ وﻧﺎﺷﺮة‬،‫ ﻋﻤﻠﺖ ﻣﻌﻠﻤﺔ‬،‫ﺟﺎﻣﻌﺔ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﺲ أﻧﺪراوس ﻓﻲ ﺳﻜﻮﺗﻠﻨﺪا‬ ً ّ ّ ‫ وﻫﻲ ﺗﻌﻴﺶ ﻓﻲ‬.‫ﻓﻮﺗﻮﻏﺮاﻓﻴﺔ وﺎﻛﺗﺒﺔ‬ ّ ّ .‫م‬١٩٨٩ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻣﻨﺬ ﻋﺎم‬ ‫وﻣﺼﻮرة‬ ،‫ﺗﻠﻔﺰﻳﻮﻧﻴﺔ‬ ُ ْ َ ُ َْ ّ ً ‫ ﻧﺸ َﺮت ﻛﺘُﺒًﺎ‬،‫وﺿﻌﺘﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﻜﺘُﺐ اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ،‫ﺻﻮرا ﻋﻦ اﻷردن‬ ‫ﻳﺘﻀﻤﻦ ﺑﻌﻀﻬﺎ‬ ُ ٌ َ ُ ‫ و’’ﺻﻮر ﻟﻸردن ﻣﻦ‬،‘‘‫ و’’اﻟﺒﺘﺮاء وﻣﻤﻠﻜﺔ اﻷﻧﺒﺎط اﻟﻤﻔﻘﻮدة‬،‘‘‫ ’’اﻟﺒﺘﺮاء‬:‫ﻧﺬﻛﺮ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ‬ ّ .‘‘‫ ’’ﻣﺎ وراء ﻧﻬﺮ اﻷردن‬،‘‘‫اﻟﺠﻮ‬

‫ﻣﻤـﺪوح ﺑﺸــﺎرات‬

َّ َ ‫إن ﺣﻤﻠَﻪ‬ ‫ﻟﻘﺐ ’’دوق اﻟﻤﺨﻴﺒﺔ‘‘ ﻣﻦ ﺟﻼﻟﺔ اﻟﻤﻠﻚ اﻟﺮاﺣﻞ اﻟﺤﺴﻴﻦ ﺑﻦ‬ ُ َ َ َّ ‫ ﻫﻮ‬،‫اﻷرﺳﺘﻘﺮاﻃﻲ‘‘ اﻟﻮﺣﻴﺪ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺸﺮق اﻷوﺳﻂ‬ ‫ ﻟﻴﻜﻮن ﺑﺬﻟﻚ ’’اﻟﻔﺎرس‬،‫ﻃﻼل‬ ٌ ّ ُ ُ ّ ‫ ﻳﻌﻴﺶ ﻓﻲ‬.‫ﻳﺤﻮزه ﻣﻤﺪوح ﺑﺸﺎرات ﻟﻜﻞ ﻣﺎ ﻫﻮ أردﻧﻲ‬ ‫اﻋﺘﺮاف ﺑﺎﻟﺸﻐﻒ اﻟﺬي‬ ٌ ٌ ّ ً ّ ّ ‫ﻣﻨﺰل ﻳﻄﻞ‬ ‫ﺟﺒﻞ اﻟﺠﻮﻓﺔ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ وﻫﻮ ﻣﻨﺰل ﻣﻀﻴﺎف‬،‫اﻟﺮوﻣﺎﻧﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺪرج‬ ‫ﺗﻤﺎﻣﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ٍ ّ ُ ّ ُ ‫ﻳﺮﺣ‬ ً‫ﻌﺪ ﻣﻤﺪوح ﺑﺸﺎرات ﻧﺼﻴﺮا‬ ‫ ﻳ‬.‫ﺐ ﺑﺎﻟﺰاﺋﺮﻳﻦ ﻣﻦ ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻒ ﺷﺮاﺋﺢ اﻟﻤﺠﺘﻤﻊ‬ ٍ َ َ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻮﻃﻨﻲ‬ ‫ وﺗﺄﺳﻴﺴﻪ اﻟﻤﻌﺮض‬،‫ﻟﻠﻔﻦ ﻓﻲ اﻷردن ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل دﻋﻤﻪ دارة اﻟﻔﻨﻮن‬ ّ ‫ﻟﻠﻔﻨﻮن اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻠﺔ ﻓﻲ‬ .‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬

ّ ‫اﺤﻛﻤﻬﻴـﺪ‬ Mohammad Jardaneh One of Jordan’s true entrepreneurs. Born in Amman, he remains passionate about the city and the principles of tolerance and acceptance on which Amman was established. He has succeeded in the ﬁelds of engineering, insurance, and industry and is the co-founder of Arabtech Jardaneh, a leading international engineering consultancy ﬁrm. He was president of the Jordan Engineering Association, served as a city council member for two separate terms and has served on the boards of many civil society organizations.

ّ ُ ‫اﻟﻜـﺘﺎب اﻟـﻤﺸـﺎرﻛﻮن‬ Jeryes Samawi Jeryes Samawi is a Jordanian poet, writer, lecturer and politician. He studied English literature, philosophy and communication arts in the USA and Jordan. He worked in Jordan TV, was Director General of Jerash Festival and Minister of Culture. He has published a collection of poetry Another Slip of Wisdom, and his work has been translated into many languages and features in several graduate theses.

Suhail Bisharat Suhail Bisharat was a geologist in the oil industry before establishing Amman’s ﬁrst private, commercial art gallery in 1978. Appointed Director of the Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts, he built its collection over 12 years. He holds a master’s degree in Near Eastern and Museum studies from New York. He was made Chevalier legion d’honneur by France and Commander of the Polar Star by King Gustav of Sweden for his contributions to the arts.

Jane Taylor After a degree in Medieval History from St Andrews University in Scotland, Jane Taylor has been a teacher, publisher, television producer, photographer and writer. Since 1989 she has lived in Amman. Amongst other books, she has written and photographed several on Jordan, including Petra; Petra and the Lost Kingdom of the Nabataeans; Jordan Images from the Air; and Beyond the Jordan.

Mamdouh Bisharat To be dubbed "Duke of Mukheibeh" by the late King Hussein and hence the only "aristocratic knight " of the Middle East is recognition of the passion Mamdouh has for all things Jordanian. Living in Jabal Joﬀeh above the Roman theatre, Mandouh welcomes visitors from all levels of society to his beautiful home. Mamdouh has championed the arts in Jordan including support to Darat Al Funun and the formation of the National Gallery of Arts in Amman.

‫راﻣـﻲ ﺿـﺎﻫﺮ‬

ٌ ّ ّ ‫وأﻛﺎدﻳﻤﻲ‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻷﻟﻤﺎﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻳﺪرس ﺣﺎﻟﻴًﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺠﺎﻣﻌﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﻌﻤﺎري ﻣﻤﺎرس‬ ‫راﻣﻲ ﺿﺎﻫﺮ ﻫﻮ‬ ً ّ ّ ‫اﻷردﻧﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ‬ ّ ّ ‫ وﻗﺪ درس ﺳﺎﺑﻘﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺠﺎﻣﻌﺔ اﻷﻣﻴﺮﻛﻴﺔ ﺑﺒﻴﺮوت وﺟﺎﻣﻌﺔ اﻟﻌﻠﻮم‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ّ َ ُ ،‫ﺮي‬ ّ َ ‫ﺑﺎﻟﺘﻄﻮﻳﺮ واﻟﺘﺮاث‬ ّ ّ‫وﻣﻬﺘﻢ‬ ّ ‫اﻟﺤ َﻀ‬ ‫ ﺿﺎﻫﺮ ﻣﺨﺘﺺ‬.‫ د‬.‫واﻟﺘﻜﻨﻮﻟﻮﺟﻴﺎ اﻷردﻧﻴﺔ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﺸﻜﻞ ﺧﺎص ﺑﺎﻟﺒﺤﺚ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻤﺎرﺳﺎت ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ اﻟﻔﺮاغ اﻟﻌﺎم وﺳﻴﺎﺳﺎﺗﻪ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺪي‬ ٍ ُ ّ ‫اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ ﻓﻲ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن وﺗﺤﻤﻞ‬ ‫ ﺿﺎﻫﺮ ﺷﺮﻛﺘَﻪ‬.‫أﺳﺲ د‬ .‫ﻧﺔ‬ ّ ‫ ﻛﻤﺎ‬،‫م‬١٩٩٩ ‫اﺳﻢ ’’ﺗﺮاث ﻟﻠﺪراﺳﺎت واﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ‘‘ ﻋﺎم‬ َ ‫ ﻣﺠﻠﺲ‬:‫أﺳﺲ ’’ﻣﺘﺮوﺑﻮﻟﻴﺲ‬ َ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﺤﻮث اﻟﻤﺪن‘‘ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﺒﺤﺜﻴﺔ ﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ ’’ﺗﺮاث‬ ‫ وﻫﻮ ﻳُﻌﺪ اﻟﺬراع‬،‫م‬٢٠٠٨ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن ﻋﺎم‬ .‘‘‫ﻟﻠﺪراﺳﺎت واﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ‬

‫ﻛﺮﻳـﺲ ﺟﻮﻧﺴـﻮن‬ َ ّ ّ ،‫ﺑﺮﻳﻄﺎﻧﻲ اﻟﻤﻮﻟﺪ ﻳﺤﻤﻞ ﺷﻬﺎدﺗﻲ اﻟﺒﻜﺎﻟﻮرﻳﻮس واﻟﻤﺎﺟﺴﺘﻴﺮ‬ ‫ﺟﻴﻮﻟﻮﺟﻲ‬ ‫ﻛﺮﻳﺲ ﻫﻮ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻣﺘﺨﺼ ٌﺺ ﻓﻲ ﺗﻨﻤﻴﺔ اﻟﺴﻴﺎﺣﺔ اﻟﺒﻴﺌﻴﺔ وأﻧﺸﻄﺔ اﻷﻋﻤﺎل اﻟﻤﺮﺗﺒﻄﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﺔ ﺑﻨﺎء ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫ ﻳﻌﻤﻞ ﻓﻲ اﻷردن ﻟﺪى اﻟﺠﻤﻌﻴﺔ اﻟﻤﻠﻜﻴﺔ ﻟﺤﻤﺎﻳﺔ‬.‫أوﺿﺎع اﻟﻤﺠﺘﻤﻌﺎت اﻟﻤﺤﻠﻴﺔ‬ ً ّ َ ُ ّ ً ١٦ ‫اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﺔ ﻣﻨﺬ‬ ‫إﻗﻠﻴﻤﻴﺔ ﺗﻌﻨﻰ ﺑﻨﺸﺮ ﻣﻐﺎﻣﺮات اﻟﺴﻴﺎﺣﺔ‬ ‫ ﻛﻤﺎ أن ﻟﻪ أﻧﺸﻄﺔ‬،‫ﻋﺎﻣﺎ‬ ّ ّ ّ ّ َ ‫ ﺗﻘﻠﺪ وﺳﺎم اﻟﺘﻤﻴﺰ ﻣﻦ ﻣﻠﻜﺔ ﺑﺮﻳﻄﺎﻧﻴﺎ‬،‫م‬٢٠٠٦ ‫ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬.‫اﻟﺒﻴﺌﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻨﺎﻃﻖ اﻟﻤﺤﻤﻴﺔ‬ .‫إﻟﻴﺰاﺑﻴﺚ اﻟﺜﺎﻧﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ أﺟﻞ ِﺧﺪﻣﺎﺗﻪ ﻟﺤﻤﺎﻳﺔ اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻷردن‬

‫ﺳﻤـﺮ دودﻳــﻦ‬

ُ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺴﺮﺣﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺎﻣﻌﺔ ﺳﺎﻧﺘﺎ ﻛﻼرا ﺑﻮﻻﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﺧﺮﻳﺠﺔ اﻟﻔﻨﻮن‬ ‫ﺳﻤﺮ دودﻳﻦ ﻫﻲ‬ ُّ ّ ً ُ ّ ّ ‫ﺑﺸﻜﻞ‬ ‫ وﺗﺮﻛﺰ ﻓﻲ أﻋﻤﺎﻟﻬﺎ‬،‫ وﺗﻌﻤﻞ ﻣﺨﺮﺟﺔ ﻣﺴﺮﺣﻴﺔ ﻣﺴﺘﻘﻠﺔ‬،‫ﻛﺎﻟﻴﻔﻮرﻳﻨﺎ اﻷﻣﻴﺮﻛﻴﺔ‬ ٍ ّ ّ ‫ ﻛﻤﺎ ﺗﻌﻤﻞ‬،‫أﺳﺎﺳﻲ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺪراﻣﺎ واﻟﺘﻌﻠﻴﻢ‬ ‫ﺑﺸﻜﻞ ﺧﺎص ﻋﻠﻰ إﺷﺮاك اﻟﺸﺒﺎب‬ ٍ ٌ ُ ّ ‫ ﻫﻲ ﻣﺆﺳﺴﺔ ’’ﻣﺒﺎدرة ﺗﻜﻮﻳﻦ ﻟﻠﻔﻀﺎءات اﻟﻤﻔﺘﻮﺣﺔ‘‘ وﻧﺎﺷﻄﺔ ﻓﻲ‬.‫وﺗﻤﻜﻴﻨﻬﻢ‬ ُ ّ َ ّ ‫اﻹﻗﻠﻴﻤﻲ وﻣﺪﻳﺮ‬ ‫ﻣﻨﺼﺐ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﺮ‬ ‫ﺣﺎﻟﻴﺎ‬ ‫ ﺗﺸﻐﻞ‬.‫ﻣﺠﺎﻻت اﻟﻘﻴﺎدة وﺗﻤﻜﻴﻦ اﻟﻤﺠﺘﻤﻊ‬ ّ ‫اﻟﺒﺮاﻣﺞ ﻓﻲ‬ ّ ‫ﻣﺆﺳﺴﺔ‬ .‫’’رواد اﻟﺘﻨﻤﻴﺔ‘‘ ﻟﺘﻤﻜﻴﻦ اﻟﺸﺒﺎب واﻟﻤﺠﺘﻤﻊ‬

ّ ُ ‫أﺣﻤــﺪ ﺣﻤﻴـﺾ‬

ّ ّ ‫ﺑﺪأ أﺣﻤﺪ‬ ‫م ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻛﺎن ﻳﺪرس‬١٩٩١ ‫ﺣﻤﻴﺾ ﺳﺘﻮدﻳﻮ اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ اﻟﺨﺎص ﺑﻪ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫ ﻗﺎد‬،‫ﺗﺴﻌﻴﻨﻴﺎت اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻌﺸﺮﻳﻦ‬ ‫ ﻓﻲ‬.‫اﻷردﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎرﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺠﺎﻣﻌﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻬﻨﺪﺳﺔ‬ ً َ ‫ﺟﻬﻮدا ﻓﻲ اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ واﻟﺘﻜﻨﻮﻟﻮﺟﻴﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺸﺎرﻳﻊ راﺋﺪ ٍة ﻓﻲ اﻟﻨﺸﺮ واﻻﺳﺘﺸﺎرات‬ ّ ُ ُ ‫ ﺗﻌﺪ ﺷﺮﻛﺘﻪ اﻟﻜﺎﺋﻨﺔ ﻓﻲ‬.‫وإﻧﺸﺎء ﻣﻮاﻗﻊ اﻹﻧﺘﺮﻧﺖ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺴﺘﻮى اﻟﺸﺮق اﻷوﺳﻂ‬ ً ّ ً ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺘﺠﺎري‬ ‫ﻣﺘﺨﺼﺼﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﺎل اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ واﻟﺘﺮوﻳﺞ‬ ‫ ﺷﺮﻛﺔ‬،‫ ﺳﻴﻨﺘﺎﻛﺲ‬،‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ُ ّ ‫ وﺿﻌﺖ ﺷﺮﻛﺘُﻪ‬،‫م‬٢٠٠٨ ‫ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم‬.‫واﻻﺑﺘﻜﺎر‬ ‫أول ﻧﻈﺎم ﻹﻋﺎدة ﺧﻠﻖ ﻫ ِﻮ ّﻳﺔ اﻟﻌﺎﺻﻤﺔ‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻷردﻧﻴﺔ‬ ّ ّ ‫ اﻟﻤﺆﺳﺲ اﻟﺸﺮﻳﻚ ﻓﻲ ﺷﺮﻛﺔ‬،‫ﺑﺎﻟﺴﻴﺪة ﺳﻠﻮى ﻗﻴﺪان‬ ‫ﻣﺘﺰوج‬ .‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ .‫ﺳﻴﻨﺘﺎﻛﺲ‬

‫ﺑﺎرﺑــﺮا ﭘﻮرﺗــﺮ‬

َ ُ ّ ‫اﻟﺸﺮﻗﻴﺔ اﻟﻜﺎﺋﻦ ﻓﻲ‬ ّ ّ ‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫اﻷﻣﻴﺮﻛﻲ ﻟﻠﺒﺤﻮث‬ ‫ﻣﺪﻳﺮة اﻟﻤﺮﻛﺰ‬ ‫ ﭘﻮرﺗﺮ ﻫﻲ‬.‫ﺑﺎرﺑﺮا إﻳﻪ‬ ُ ‫ وﺷﻬﺎدات‬،‫ﺑﺮن ﻣﺎور‬ ‫ﺟﺎﻣﻌﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﺒﻜﺎﻟﻮرﻳﻮس‬ ‫ﺷﻬﺎدة‬ ‫ﺗﺤﻤﻞ‬ .‫م‬٢٠٠٦ ‫ﻣﻨﺬ ﻋﺎم‬ ِ َ ‫ ﻣﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ‬.‫اﻟﻤﺎﺟﺴﺘﻴﺮ واﻟﺪﻛﺘﻮراه ﻣﻦ ﺟﺎﻣﻌﺔ ﻛﻮﻟﻮﻣﺒﻴﺎ‬ ‫ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ‬،‫م‬١٩٨٦‫ و‬١٩٧٨ ‫ﻋﺎﻣﻲ‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻤﺼﺮﻳﺔ وﻓﻨﻮن‬ ‫اﻟﺘﻨﻈﻴﻤﻲ ﻟﻤﺘﺤﻒ ﻣﻴﺘﺮوﭘﻮﻟﻴﺘﺎن ﻟﻠﻔﻨﻮن )اﻟﻔﻨﻮن‬ ‫ﺿﻤﻦ اﻟﻔﺮﻳﻖ‬ ّ ّ ‫ و ﺗﺴﻌﻴﻨﻴﺎت اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻌﺸﺮﻳﻦ درﺳﺖ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺎﻣﻌﺔ‬.(‫اﻟﺸﺮق اﻷدﻧﻰ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻤﺔ‬ ّ ْ َ ّ ‫ﻋﺪة رﺣﻼت اﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎف‬ ‫أﺛﺮﻳﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺠﺰاﺋﺮ إﻟﻰ إﻳﺮان ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﻨﻮات‬ ‫ ﻗﺎدت‬.‫ﻧﻴﻮﻳﻮرك‬ ٍ ِ ّ َ ُ ّ .‫اﻷردﻧﻲ‬ ‫ وﻫﻲ ﺗﺮﻛﺰ اﻟﻴﻮم ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺘﺮاث‬،‫اﻟﻌﺸﺮ ﻗﺒﻞ اﻧﺘﻘﺎﻟﻬﺎ إﻟﻰ اﻷردن‬

Rami Daher A practising architect and academician (currently working as an associate professor of Architecture at German-Jordanian University in Amman). Rami also taught at the American University of Beirut and at Jordan University of Science & Technology. He is a heritage and urban regeneration specialist interested in research related to politics and dynamics of public space making, urban regeneration and landscape urbanism. He is a co-founder and a principal of TURATH consultants and its research arm METROPOLIS.

Chris Johnson Chris is a British ecologist, specialising in the development of community-based ecotourism and other nature-related businesses. He has worked in Jordan for over 16 years with the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature, and also regionally, spearheading eco-tourism ventures in protected areas. In 2006, Chris was awarded the MBE by Queen Elizabeth II for his services to nature conservation in Jordan.

Samar Dudin A graduate of Theater Arts from the University of Santa Clara, California, Samar Dudin is an independent theater director who has focused her career primarily on drama and education, in particular involving youth empowerment . She is the founder of Takween Open Spaces Initiative and active in leadership and community empowerment. She is currently Regional Director and Head of Programs of Ruwwad Al Tanmeya for Community and Youth Empowerment.

Ahmad Humeid Ahmad started his first design studio in 1991 while studying architecture at the University of Jordan. In the 1990s he led design and technology efforts at various pioneering publishing, consulting and web ventures in the Middle East. His Amman-based company, SYNTAX, is a brand, design and innovation firm which in 2008 created the first branding system of Jordan's capital, Amman. He is married to Salua Qidan who is SYNTAX’s other co-founder.

Barbara A. Porter Barbara has been the Director of the American Center of Oriental Research in Amman since 2006. She received her BA from Bryn Mawr College and her MA, M Phil, and PhD from Columbia University. From 1978 to 1986 she was on the curatorial staﬀ of The Metropolitan Museum of Art (Egyptian Art and Ancient Near Eastern Art) and in the 1990s taught at New York University. She led several archaeological tours from Algeria to Iran in the ten years before moving to Jordan and now concentrates on the heritage of Jordan.

‫ﻧﺎدﻳﺎ اﻟﺪﺟﺎﻧﻲ‬

َ ّ ّ َ َ ‫ﺗﺮ‬ َ ‫اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎرﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﺖ اﻟﻬﻨﺪﺳﺔ‬ ِ ‫ ودرﺳ‬،‫ﻋﺮﻋﺖ ﻧﺎدﻳﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻧﻴﺠﻴﺮﻳﺎ واﻟﻤﻤﻠﻜﺔ اﻟﻤﺘﺤﺪة‬ ُ َ ‫ اﻟﺒﻠﺪ اﻟﺬي‬،‫ ﻟﻘﺪ ﻗﺎد اﻟﻔﻀﻮل ﻧﺎدﻳﺎ إﻟﻰ اﻻﻧﺘﻘﺎل إﻟﻰ اﻷردن‬.‫ﺟﺎﻣﻌﺔ ﻛﻮ ِﻟﺞ ﺑﻠﻨﺪن‬ َ ْ ّ ،‫ و اﻷردن‬.‫ﻛﺎﻧﺖ وﻗﺘَﻬﺎ ﺗﺪﻋﻮه ﺑﻴﺘَﻬﺎ‬ ‫ ﻛﻤﺎ‬،‫أﺳ َﺴﺖ ﻋﻤﻠﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺠﻮاﻫﺮ‬ ْ َ ّ ُ ّ ْ ّ ً ً ّ َ ّ ً ‫ ﺗﻘﺪم أﻋﻤﺎل‬.‫ﺎت ﻳﻌﻤﻠﻦ ﻣﻦ ﺑﻴﻮﺗﻬﻦ‬ ٍ ‫أﺳﺴﺖ ﻣﺸﺮوﻋﺎ إﻧﺘﺎﺟﻴﺎ ﺷﻐﻠﺖ ﻓﻴﻪ ﻧﺴﺎء أردﻧﻴ‬ ً َ ‫ﺗﺼﺎﻣﻴﻤﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻮﺣﺎة ﻣﻦ اﻟﺜﻔﺎﻗﺔ‬ ‫ ﻋﺎرﺿﺔ‬، ّ ‫اﻟﺪﺟﺎﻧﻲ ﻧﺎدﻳﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺴﺘﻮى دو‬ ّ .‫واﻟﺘﺮاث اﻷردﻧﻴﻴﻦ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺠﻤﻬﻮر ﻓﻲ أﻧﺤﺎء اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻢ‬

‫ﺣﺎزم ﻣﻠﺤﺲ‬

ّ ُ ُ ً ّ ‫ ورﺟﻞ أﻋﻤﺎل‬،‫ﺑﻄﻞ ﻛﺮة ﺳﻠ ٍﺔ ﺳﺎﺑﻖ‬ ‫ ﻳﺤﻤﻞ ﻓﻲ داﺧﻠﻪ ﺷﻐﻔﺎ ﺑﻌﻠﻢ اﻵﺛﺎر‬،‫رﻳﺎدي‬ ّ‫ﻟﻠﺠﻤﻌﻴﺔ اﻟﻮﻃﻨﻴﺔ‬ ّ ً‫ ﺑﻬﺬا ﺻﺎر ﺣﺎزم ﻣﻠﺤﺲ راﻋﻴًﺎ داﻋﻤﺎ‬،‫اﻟﻤﻌﻤﺎري‬ ّ ‫وﺑﺤﻔﻆ اﻟﺘﺮاث‬ ِ َ ّ ً‫ﻳﺼﻴﺮ وزﻳﺮا‬ َ ّ ‫ ﻗﺒﻞ أن‬،‫ وﻟﻠﻤﺮﻛﺰ اﻷﻣﻴﺮﻛﻲ ﻟﻠﺒﺤﻮث اﻟﺸﺮﻗﻴﺔ‬،‫ﻟﻠﻤﺤﺎﻓﻈﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺒﺘﺮا‬ َ َ ُّ َ َ ‫ ﺣﻴﺚ‬،‫ﻟﻠﺒﻴﺌﺔ‬ ‫وأﺻﻠﺐ ﻟﺒﻴﺌﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﻮﺟﻬﺎت ﻓﻲ ﺳﺒﻴﻞ ﺗﺤﻘﻴﻖ ﺣﻤﺎﻳ ٍﺔ أﻣﻨ َﻊ‬ ‫ﻧﺎﺻ َﺮ ﺑﻌﺾ‬ .‫اﻷردن اﻟﺜﻤﻴﻨﺔ‬

‫ﻣﺄﻣــﻮن اﻟﺘﻠﻬــﻮﻰﻳ‬

ً ،‫ ﻳﺸﻐﻞ ﺣﺎﻟﻴﺎ ﻣﻨﺼﺐ أﻣﻴﻦ ﻋﺎم وزارة اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ‬.‫ﻣﻦ ﻣﻮاﻟﻴﺪ ﻋﻤﺎن و اﻟﻌﺎﺷﻘﻴﻦ ﻟﻬﺎ‬ ً ً ً ‫وﺎﻛن ﻗﺪ ﻋﻤﻞ ﺳﺎﺑﻘﺎ ﻛﻤﺪﻳﺮا ﻋﺎﻣﺎ ﻟﺪاﺋﺮة اﻟﻤﻜﺘﺒﺔ اﻟﻮﻃﻨﻴﺔ واﻟﺘﻲ ﺷﻬﺪت ﻓﻲ ﻋﻬﺪه‬ ً ً ‫ ﻟﺪﻳﻪ اﻫﺘﻤﺎم ﻓﻲ‬.‫ ﻛﺎن ﻓﻲ اﻟﻘﻄﺎع اﻟﺮﺳﻤﻲ اﻟﺤﻜﻮﻣﻲ ﻟﺴﻨﻮات ﻃﻮﻳﻠﺔ‬.‫اﻧﺘﻘﺎﻻ ﻧﻮﻋﻴﺎ‬ .‫اﻟﻔﻨﻮن و اﻵداب ﻛﺬﻟﻚ ﻓﻲ ﺣﻤﺎﻳﺔ اﻟﻤﻠﻜﻴﺔ اﻟﻔﻜﺮﻳﺔ‬

‫ﻣﺮﻳــﻢ ﻋﺒﺎﺑﺴــﺔ‬

ٌ ّ ً ١٢ ‫ﻓﺮﻧﺴﻴﺔ ﺗﻌﻴﺶ ﻓﻲ اﻷردن ﻣﻨﺬ‬ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﻔﺮﻧﺴﻲ‬ ‫ وﺗﻌﻤﻞ ﻟﺪى اﻟﻤﻌﻬﺪ‬،‫ﻋﺎﻣﺎ‬ ‫ﻣﺼﻮرة‬ ّ ‫م ﻛﺘﺎﺑًﺎ ﺑﻌﻨﻮان‬٢٠٠٧ ‫ ﻧﺸﺮت ﻓﻲ ﺑﺎرﻳﺲ ﻋﺎم‬.‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ّ ‫ﻟﻠﺸﺮق اﻷدﻧﻰ ﻓﻲ‬ :‫’’ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ّ ُ ‫ اﻷﺳﺘﺎذ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺠﺎﻣﻌﺔ‬،‫ راﻣﻲ ﺿﺎﻫﺮ‬.‫ ﻛﻤﺎ ﺣﺮرت ﺑﺎﻻﺷﺘﺮاك ﻣﻊ د‬،‘‘‫اﻟﺤﺠﺮ واﻟﺴﻼم‬ َ ّ ّ ّ ّ ً َ ‘‘‫ ﻛﺘﺎﺑﺎ ﺑﻌﻨﻮان ’’اﻟﻤﻤﺎرﺳﺎت اﻟﺤﻀﺮﻳﺔ وﺑﻨﺎء اﻷﻣﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻷردن‬،‫اﻷﻟﻤﺎﻧﻴﺔ اﻷردﻧﻴﺔ‬ ‫م )وﻳﻤﻜﻦ أن ﺗﺠـﺪه ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻮﻗﻊ اﻟﻤﻌﻬـﺪ اﻟﻔﺮﻧﺴﻲ ﻟﻠﺸـﺮق‬٢٠١١ ‫ﻓﻲ ﺑﻴﺮوت ﻋﺎم‬ َ ‫ ﺗﺤﻤﻞ ﺷﻬﺎدة اﻟﺪﻛﺘﻮراه ﻓﻲ اﻟﺠﻐﺮاﻓﻴﺎ ﻣﻦ ﺟﺎﻣﻌﺔ‬.(www.ifporient.org ‫اﻷدﻧﻰ‬ .‫ ﻓﺮﻧﺴﺎ‬،‫ﻓﺮاﻧﺴﻮا راﺑﻠﻴﻪ‬

‫ﺗﻴﺴــﺎ ﻓﻴﺮﺑﻴــﺮن‬

ْ َ ‫ﻟﺴﻨﻮات‬ ‫ ﺑﻌﺪ أن ﻋﻤﻠﺖ‬،‫م‬٢٠٠٧ ‫ﺣﻀﺮت ﺗﻴﺴﺎ إﻟﻰ اﻷردن ﻣﻦ ﺟﻨﻮب أﻓﺮﻳﻘﻴﺎ ﻋﺎم‬ ٍ ّ ً ّ ّ .‫اﻟﻘﺪﻳﺲ ﻗﺒﺮﻳﺎﻧﻮس ﻓﻲ ﻛﻴﭗ ﺗﺎون‬ ‫ﻣﺪﻳﺮة ﻟﻤﺪرﺳﺔ‬ ،‫اﻹﻧﻜﻠﻴﺰﻳﺔ‬ ‫ﺗﺪر ُس اﻟﻠﻐﺔ‬ ّ ً .‫وﺗﻌﻤﻞ ﻣﺪﻳﺮا ﻟﻸﻧﺸﻄﺔ اﻟﻼﻣﻨﻬﺠﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺪرﺳﺔ ﻛﻨﻐﺰ أﻛﺎدﻳﻤﻲ ﻗﺮب ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻣﺎدﺑﺎ‬ ّ ّ ّ ‫ﺗﻀﻢ‬ ‫ﺟﻤﻌﻴﺔ‬ ‫ وﻫﻮ‬، ّ ‫وﺧﻼل ﻋﻤﻠﻬﺎ رﻛﺰت ﻋﻠﻰ ﺑﺮﻧﺎﻣﺞ ’’راوﻧﺪ ﺳﻜﻮﻳﺮ‘‘ اﻟﺪو‬ ً ً ُ ً ‫ﺗﺸﺘﺮك ﻓﻲ اﻟﺘﺰام ﻟﻠﻌﻤﻞ‬ ‫ﻣﻌﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﺎﻻت أﺧﺮى إﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ‬ ‫ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﺪارس‬ ُ ٌ َ ُ‫اﻟﺘﺰام ﺗ‬ ّ ّ ‫ ﻟﺪﻳﻬﺎ‬.‫اﻷﻛﺎدﻳﻤﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﻔﻮق‬ ‫ واﻟﺸﺮاﻛﺔ‬، ّ ‫ واﻟﺘﻔﺎﻫﻢ اﻟﺪو‬،‫ﺠﺎه ﺗﻨﻤﻴﺔ اﻷﻓﺮاد‬ ّ .‫اﻟﻤﺠﺘﻤﻌﻴﺔ‬

Nadia Dajani Nadia grew up in Nigeria and the UK, and studied architecture at University College, London. Curiosity to know more about the place she called home led Nadia to relocate to Jordan. Here, she established her own jewellery line, and a cottage industry employing local Jordanian women. Nadia’s work is exhibited internationally, showcasing her designs, inspired by Jordanian culture and heritage, to a worldwide audience.

Hazem Malhas A former basketball champion, a business entrepreneur, passionate about archeology and architectural preservation, Hazem became a patron of the Petra National Trust and the American Center of Oriental Research (ACOR) before becoming Minister of the Environment, championing some drives towards stronger protection of Jordan's precious environment.

Ma'moun Talhouni Born in and a lover of Amman, Ma'moun is currently the Secretary General of the Ministry of Culture, having previously worked for many years as manager of the National Library, which has exprienced a positive transformation during his period in oﬃce. He has worked in the oﬃcial sector of government for many years. Ma'moun has a strong interest in the arts and literature as well as in intellectual property protection.

Myriam Ababsa Myriam Ababsa is a French geographer resident in Jordan for twelve years, aﬃliated to the French Institute for the Near East, Institut Français du Proche-Orient (at the IFPO in Amman). She has written Amman de pierre et de paix (Paris: Autrement, 2007), and co-edited with Rami Daher, from the German-Jordanian University, Cities, Urban Practices and Nation Building in Jordan (Beirut: IFPO, 2011). She holds a PhD in Geography from the University François Rabelais of Tours, France.

Tessa Fairbairn Tessa came to Jordan from South Africa in 2007 having been the Head of St Cyprian’s School in Cape Town for many years. She teaches English and is Director of Extra-Mural Activities at King’s Academy, near Madaba. There, she focuses on the internationAl Round Square programme, a worldwide association of schools sharing a commitment beyond academic excellence. She is deeply committed to the personal development of individuals , to international understanding and to community partnership.

The black iris is Jordan's national flower ... it is Jordan's national pride. It grows in specific areas of the country, having adapted to the harsh, semi-desert climate and can be found in secret places within the outer environs of the City of Amman. It is a special flower, elegant and proud which combines shining black surfaces in contrast with patches of deepest black velvet offering subtle hints of umbre and purple.

َ ّ ّ ُ ّ ُ ‫ إﻧﻬﺎ‬-‫اﻟﻮﻃﻨﻴـﺔ‬ ‫زﻫﺮة اﻷردن‬ ‫إن اﻟﺴﻮﺳـﻨﺔ اﻟﺴـﻮداء ﻫـﻲ‬ ‫ ﺗﻨﻤﻮ ﻓﻲ‬.‫ﻓﺨـﺮ اﻷردن‬ ّ ْ َّ ُ ‫ﺖ ﻣﻊ‬ َ ّ ،‫اﻟﺼﺤﺮاوي‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻨﺎخ اﻟﻘﺎﺳﻲ ﺷﺒﻪ‬ ‫ ﺑﻌﺪ أن ﺗﻜﻴﻔ‬،‫ﻣﻨﺎﻃﻖ ﻣﺤﺪد ٍة ﻣﻦ اﻟﺒﻠﺪ‬ َ َ ّ ‫ﺳـﺮ ّﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺒﻴﺌـﺎت اﻟﻤﺤﻴﻄـﺔ ﺑﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬ َ ُ .‫ﻋﻤﺎن‬ ‫ﺗﻮﺟـﺪ ﻓـﻲ‬ ‫وﻳﻤﻜـﻦ أن‬ ٍ ّ ‫أﻣﺎﻛﻦ‬ ٌ ٌ ّ ٌ َّ ُ ‫ وﺗﺤﺘﻮي ﺑﺘﻼﺗﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻠﻮن اﻷﺳـﻮ ِد ﻓﻲ‬،‫ﻣﻤﻴَﺰة أﻧﻴﻘﺔ ﻳﻤﻸﻫﺎ اﻟﻔﺨﺮ‬ ‫إﻧﻬـﺎ زﻫـﺮة‬ ُّ ٌ ٌ ُ ّ ‫ ﻳﺘﺨﻠﻠﻬﺎ ﺗﻮﺷـﻴﺤﺎت ﻟﻄﻴﻔﺔ ﻣﻦ‬،‫اﻟﻤﺨﻤﻠـﻲ‬ ‫درﺟﺎت اﻷﺳـﻮد اﻟﺤﺎﻟـﻚ‬ ‫ـﻦ ﻣﻊ‬ ِ ٍ ‫ﺗﺒﺎﻳ‬ ّ ّ ّ ّ ‫اﻟﺒﻨ‬ .‫واﻷرﺟﻮاﻧـﻲ‬ ،‫اﻟﻘﺮﻣـﺰي‬ ‫ـﻲ‬