Footwear Plus | September 2023

FEATURES

12 Win-Win Rusty Hall, president and CEO of Mephisto USA, on how a Golden Rule approach to brand management is lighting the way for the premium comfort market leader.

By Greg Dutter

16 Trend Spotting: Five Faves Hot women’s silhouettes and cool shades for the warm seasons.

By Kathleen O’Reilly

22 A Perfect Ken Designers take their cue from Barbie’s beau with bold styles and Malibu-bright colors for Spring/Summer ’24.

By Kathleen O’Reilly

4 Editor’s Note

6 This Just In: Copenhagen

On cover: Ecco water-friendly, lightweight clogs

Dansko metallic suede sandals.

Noelle Heffernan Publisher

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Nancy Campbell

Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

EDITORIAL

Kathy Passero Editor at Large

Kathleen O’Reilly Fashion Editor

Ann Loynd Burton Contributing Editor

Melodie Jeng

Marcy Swingle

Contributing Photographers

ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION

Lizette Chin Senior Vice President

Laurie Guptill Production Manager

Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director

Catherine Rosario

Office Manager

Mike Hoff Digital Director

WAINSCOT MEDIA

Carroll Dowden Chairman

Mark Dowden President & CEO

Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO

OFFICES

ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL

One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244

Advertising: Noelle.Heffernana@ Wainscotmedia.com

Editorial: Greg.Dutter@ Wainscotmedia.com

Breezy Walker & breezy Walker Slide

Better Days

IT FEELS GOOD to feel better again, as it’s been a long, rainy, and depressing summer. It kicked off with a devastatingly sad start in early June when our beloved family cat, Romeo, passed away just shy of 15 years of age. He was truly a prince. A ray of light and comfort, no matter how bad a day you might have had, especially for our daughter, who grew up with him. He was her faithful companion through the misery of middle school, the bully gauntlet of high school, and the fears and isolation brought on by the pandemic during college. The days of mourning that followed weren’t made easier by the sky outside our Manhattan apartment turning an apocalyptic orange due to the choking smoke of Canadian wildfires hundreds of miles away. My wife, daughter, and I were trapped in our grief. It wasn’t healthy, inside or out.

Serving as the backdrop to the summer of our family’s discontent has been the 24-7 news onslaught of coverage that makes you want to hide your head in the sand. There are just so many stories about wars, social upheaval, climate-related catastrophes, economic woes, political divides, crime waves, bellicose despots, mass shootings, and ongoing opioid, mental health, and Covid crises a person can take before wanting to do as ostriches do. And while I wholeheartedly agree with Coach Lasso’s advice to “be a goldfish” and not drown in the negatives, it’s tough when it feels as if they’re hitting you like a tidal wave.

So, yeah, I sure could use some good news.

That’s why I took great delight in the optimism that poured out of The Atlanta Shoe Market (TASM) last month. (See. P. 8 for our full review.) The overall sense among attendees is that business is good and the prospects for even better days ahead are strong. Perhaps helping to fuel the good vibrations was the fact that the gang was all there. TASM’s record attendance represented the best cross section of wholesalers and retailers at a show since well before the pandemic. Many even reported a WSA Show-like buzz reminiscent of the late ’90s.

Many attendees cited the optimism in the independent retail channel, especially. Consumers returning to stores coupled with a growing desire to shop local are contributing factors to the channel’s success. Plus, these pandemic-proof retailers are just really good. They are savvy merchants backed by great staffs, and they’ve built deep relationships with their clienteles.

Rusty Hall, president and CEO of Mephisto USA and the subject of our Q&A (p. 12), reports that the brand’s TASM booth was packed with many such retailers, nearly all of whom were looking to increase their buys for next season. It’s just one of several reasons why the exec, who is fast-approaching his 50th industry anniversary, is bullish about the future prospects of Mephisto and the industry as a whole. At the same time, Hall, who has pretty much seen and survived it all, isn’t one to be blinded by the optimism. His straightforward take on several key industry issues reveals there’s work to be done.

Indeed, there are no guarantees that the good vibrations at TASM will all pan out. Nevertheless, I’ll take it. It beats the rain cloud that has hovered Eeyore-like over our industry these past few years. Enough already! Let the sunshine in!

To that end, our fashion feature (p. 22) spotlights the emerging Ken trend. Barbie’s beau is leading a fashion charge of bold and bright looks. There are more than Kenough style options to go around, running from sporty to sophisticated to, of course, sexy. The looks encompass slides, loafers, cowboy boots, and sneakers. It’s a bolt of energy in what has been for far too long a dreary uniform market for men. Ken is a fashion beast that has finally been unleashed. So what if it took a movie ostensibly about Barbie to show the enormous potential of Ken-inspired style? Better late than never. Embrace the Kenergy! It could very well be a boon to a market segment that’s in danger of becoming even more overly dependent on sneakers. The Ken trend is also just fun, and fashion is supposed to be fun, right?

Speaking of fun, our creative directors Nancy Campbell and Trevett McCandliss, stylist Mariah Walker, fashion editor Kathleen O’Reilly, photographer Mark Andrew, and model Tristan Paine had a blast creating this Kentastic story. They make it look effortless, but it took weeks of hard work and talent to bring Ken to life in our pages. Thanks for making Footwear Plus look great in this and every issue.

On the topic of looking great, the two adorable kittens pictured here are Jojo and Yorkie, the newest members of my family. We came across the stray brothers in desperate need of a home on Petfinder. They are named after the best friends in Jojo Rabbit , our daughter’s favorite movie. It’s nice to see her really smile again.

Here’s to better days for us all.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Denmark’s the Spot

A kaleidoscope of saturated hues enlivens the streets surrounding Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Photography by Melodie Jeng

Hotlanta!

The Atlanta Shoe Market served as the industry epicenter.

PERHAPS IT’S THE best compliment a footwear show can receive: Last month’s edition of The Atlanta Shoe Market (TASM) at the Cobb Galleria Centre felt like a WSA Show in its heyday of the late ’90s. Indeed, the joint was jumping with industry-wide attendance not seen in decades.

“I found retailer traffic to be heaviest in years,” says Steven Mahoney, senior vice president of sales for Samuel Hubbard. “You’d have to go back to the best WSA days to beat what I saw, if at all.”

Sam Spears, president of Ara North America, sums up the show in one word: “fabulous.” At the February TASM, the company brought its Canadian sales team, who left very impressed. This time, Ara brought two of its global board members from Germany, and Spears reports that they were “blown away” by the show. “Traffic was very strong,” he says. “We had nearly 100 ‘shoes-on-table’ appointments, and the reaction to our Spring/Summer ’24 collection was fantastic!”

Laura Conwell-O’Brien, executive director of TASM, backs up the bullish sentiment with stats. She reports exhibitor and retailer traffic were both at record levels. “We had an 18 percent increase in buyer attendance, and exhibitor attendance, at 1,100 brands, was a record, too,” she says. “We had retailers from 46 states and 20 countries, which is also the most ever. That included a lot of new people, especially from the West Coast. And they were here for three solid days, as it was the busiest Monday ever.”

One such West Coaster in attendance was Julie Beck-Gomez, COO of Beck’s Shoes, a 20-plus store chain based in Campbell, CA. The show also reminded her of the old WSA Show days. “There was a lot of traffic in the aisles, lots of energy,” she says. Beck-Gomez was able to connect with key vendor executives as well as present the chain’s new marketing and values proposition plan: We measure. We 3D Scan. We custom fit. “We were able to accomplish all our goals,” she adds.

John Daher, owner of Shoe Box and Co. in Kennebunk, ME, says the show had a renewed sense of vibrancy. “Buyers and vendors were

excited to be there,” he reports. “The mood was reminiscent of shows from years back, with a mix of key accounts and independents, shoulder to shoulder, excited to view next year’s collections.”

Stanley Eisenman, owner of Stanley Eisenman Shoes in Fort Worth, TX, concurs on the show’s “very upbeat” mood. “The event is so well orchestrated that both vendors and retailers find it a great show to attend,” he says. “The venue is very efficient and workable, enabling attendees to cover a lot of ground. It’s top-notch in every way.”

The show’s collective energy helped fuel an overall sense of optimism, which comes despite

strong external headwinds like war, inflation, and political uncertainty. Of course, those factors are beyond the industry’s control, so many attendees reportedly focused on what they can try to control: shoes that sell.

Jerry Williamson, Aetrex’s senior vice president of business development for footwear, confirms the overall mood among buyers was optimistic. “Retailers expressed positive feedback and confidence about their Aetrex business, and our larger retail partners were eager to expand their assortments for Spring/Summer ’24 after seeing positive results this season,” he reports, noting that many times stations were fully occupied and, at times, accounts even waited in line to meet with reps. He cites Aetrex core products, such as the Jillian sandal and Sydney wedge heel collections, as show highlights. “Retailers were interested in our expanded color and style offerings based, in part, on their phenomenal sell-throughs this season. Retailers were stocking up, given the demand.”

Optimism was the buzz word inside the Ecco booth as well, according to Brandy LaPlante, sales manager. “Traffic was great, and business is trending in the right direction,” she says, adding

Dingo

All Black

Glamerk

Wolky

Asportguesas

Gioseppo

Halsa

TASM TAKEAWAYS

that the independent tier, in particular, is thriving. Show highlights for the Danish brand included the kickoff of its 60th Anniversary, marked by the introduction of the Soft 60 collection featuring a new midsole material dubbed Lytr. “It’s lighter weight with more bounce and easy to clean,” LaPlante explains. “Additionally, it’s made with our DriTan leather, which uses less water in the tanning process and saves enough water to keep 9,000 people hydrated for one year.”

Daher is also bullish on the strength of independent shoe retailing going forward. In fact, he says it was his biggest takeaway from the show. “I see a future for the next generation of independents that are able to compete and be profitable alongside other channels of distribution by offering freshness in the market,” he says. That was his mission at TASM: to search for new and emerging brands that offer consumers something fresh and with storytelling potential. “I was very pleased with my finds and excited to bring freshness to my store,” Daher says, citing collections from Oncept, Ambitious, Wooloomooloo, Miz Mooz, and Psudo as setting the stage for an exciting season ahead.

Mark Jubelirer, president of Reyers Shoes in Nelsonville, OH, was on the hunt for “exciting merchandise” that would help to separate the store from the rest in its mall location. Psudo, he also notes, is a brand with potential. “They were different, priced well-enough, and more exciting than all of the other sneaker brands at the show,” he says. Jubelirer, though, is being careful of sneakers, in general. “They’re everywhere, at every price range, and with very few differences among them,” he says. “This is typical of our industry: overreacting to last season’s best-selling styles. I’m not getting caught up in that.” Jubelirer adds, “Most lines were warmed-over styles of last year’s good ones. Too safe.”

Along those lines, Bruce Kaplan, newly appointed CRO for Impo, believes there is a dearth and overcorrection around the dress and dress-tailored categories. That presents opportunity. “People are slowly and surely making their way back into the office and are certainly going out on the town and to events more, so this need is quickly opening back up,” he says, adding that wide legged jeans on the horizon will also lead to thicker—though not heavier—bottom interests. “Sneakers and loafers remain strong but platforms and flatforms are very important going into the next season.” Kaplan cites, in particular, Impo’s stretch sandals that range from dress to very casual as a fit with this trend. “These styles are great for all time zones,” he says. Additionally, Kaplan see opportunities with subtle embellishments, which are rich in details and combine fashion with function. “We

heard time and time again from buyers that they’ve been missing this category,” he says. “In today’s market—and I believe this to be true in virtually every category—those who do the best job of combining style relevance, comfort, and functionality will be find themselves at the head of the pack.”

“We have a lot of people rooting for our brand and are excited to have alternative brands who are thinking beyond DTC and how to approach business in a fair and transparent way. I’ve been in the game 38 of my 51 years, and I’m as optimistic as ever. Things evolve but our industry is resilient, and I always feel there are great people who will continue to help us all move forward. I’m more proud than ever to be part of this community.” —Steven

Mahoney, SVP of sales, Samuel Hubbard

“My biggest takeaway was how many off-price opportunities were available in-season. As such, my strategy for next spring is to buy much less upfront and to take advantage in-season. As for my general takeaway from the show, every rep I dealt with had better shoes than everyone else’s. Or so they claimed. Personally, I thought everybody just copied everybody else. It was hard to find excitement and originality. Where have all the designers gone?”

—Mark Jubelirer, president, Reyers Shoes

“Coming out of Covid there was a lot of reinventing of business models, and much of this came out of working in survival mode. In Atlanta, I got the sense that the same was happening but more out of retailers having learned who their true partners are and gravitated to those vendors they want to do business with vs. who they had to do business with. The takeaway being the shoes and designs, of course, are important, but the retailer had better want to grow the business together with vendors vs. simply filling needs.” —Brice

Kaplan, CRO, Impo

“Our biggest takeaway is that we have a lot of potential to grow even further within the independent channel. Consumers love shopping in this segment. They expect service, and this channel delivers on that promise, and that’s what Aetrex is all about.” —Jerry

Williamson, SVP Business Development, Aetrex

“The biggest takeaway was the high level of engagement retailers have for business, as manifested by the NSRA-sponsored panel on Sunday morning. For an event that started at 7:45 a.m., it was incredibly well attended. The nearly 200 in attendance shows me that the independent retailer is very serious about continuous learning and is very dedicated to maximizing vendor relationships. I’m even more confident about the strong future of the independent retailer.” —Sam

Spears, president, Ara North America

Aetrex

Muk Luks

Ecco

Frankie4

L’Artiste

Jambu

IR Show Delivers the Goods

IF YOU BOOKED it, they came. Buyers, that is.

The recent fourth edition of the IR (Innovative Retailers) Show at the San Diego Convention Center proved to be worth the investment, especially for those who did the necessary pregaming to book buyer appointments.

“The reps who booked appointments ahead of time said they had one of their best shows in years,” confirms Gary Hauss, show director. “Friday was very busy and Saturday, while slower than normal in the halls, many of the booths were still busy.” Hauss chalked up the Saturday slowdown to the show being held over a weekend, which made it tougher for single store owners to attend. “We’ll be very aware of that in the future,” he says.

Melissa Solano, West Coast territory manager for Vionic, says the days of soliciting accounts without prior bookings are gone. “Their time

Tony Adams, vice president of Halsa Footwear, reports IR was its best U.S. show to date. “We did the homework and invited key accounts, and the reaction to our product was unbelievable,” he says. “IR has done a great job bringing a more diverse group of vendors into the mix, and they’re also reaching out to retailers who’ve not attended, which increased foot traffic, which was much better than last year.”

Ditto on the strong traffic per Patrick Percoski, territory manager for Clarks Companies, NA. “The traffic was really good,” he says. “If you made appointments, you were busy.” Percoski booked 30 appointments, and says he couldn’t have taken on more. “Buyers were very intentional about doing business,” he adds.

Helping IR’s overall good vibes was the overall optimistic mood of buyers. “It seemed everyone was very upbeat about the future,” Hauss reports. “Inventories for many are coming down from where they’ve been for the last year, and buyers were back to looking for newness.” Percoski concurs on the optimism. “Buyers were upbeat and positive,” he says. “Everyone I spoke with was having great business. It feels like the independent brick-and-mortar business is experiencing an upward trend as consumers seek unique footwear.” He adds, “We’re in a trend where the consumer has pulled back on buying big-ticket items, like homes and cars with high interest rates, and have turned their attention to buying soft goods.”

Manon Cove wedge and Orrianna Twist fisherman sandals were additional highlights.” Percoski notes that color was also very important, as the athleisure trend has gotten consumers used to wearing more color. That is flowing into other style categories. “Material interests were also very important,” he adds. “Customers want exciting footwear that strikes an emotional chord. It’s style and comfort.”

The Lasso Effect

Durango and PRCA boots collab meets the muster of champion riders.

is limited and immensely valuable,” she says, noting she met with dozens of existing accounts and opened a few new accounts with a prebooked strategy for IR. “We experienced a steady flow of traffic. Buyers were impressed by our collection’s cohesiveness and balance between core and new styles, especially our newer, elevated styles.”

Sam Spears, president of Ara North America, says IR was “really, really good,” noting that Territory Manager Cherry Shore worked well in advance to book appointments and every account showed up. “Cherry was crazy-busy, and the show proved very successful for us,” he reports. It helps, Spears adds, that many consider Ara’s latest collection to be the German brand’s “best ever, period.”

It also helps having the right merch on display. Adams, who describes Halsa as the “new kid on the block” of fashion comfort, says buyers gravitated to its unique constructions. In addition, he cites “exciting, fresh colors” like its painted leathers as being well-received. “We also offered a new fashion wedge collection that was on almost all orders,” he says, noting that buyers were looking for new and fresh brands with higher margins that challenge their existing brands, especially those that are focusing on DTC. “Halsa delivers on all those accounts,” he adds.

Percoski reports a strong reaction to Clarks’ Signature and Artisan lines. “Retailers were looking for something different, rather than the same-old looks from the past few seasons,” he says, adding that fashion with a notable amount of comfort is a strong trend. “Our Torhill and Mayhill collections, for our more stylish contemporary customer, as well as our

DURANGO BOOTS, A DIVISION OF Rocky Brands, and the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association (PRCA) have unleashed a collection of boots engineered for rodeo performance. The hand-crafted PRCA Collection by Durango features superior comfort, premium leathers, and a low ground feel tested and approved by world champion Team Durango athletes.

“Our 19 Team Durango athletes were very instrumental in the development of this collection to create a product that was specific to their profession and lifestyle,” says Erin DeLong, marketing manager for Durango. “The PRCA boots have an extremely wellbuilt boot structure and are very stable, giving riders sure footing, which allows your feet to feel closer to the ground.”

A design highlight is the patented Dually Shank system, which consists of two dual fiberglass shanks that provide superior sup-

Sunny San Diego served as an easy-to-shop backdrop.

Halsa

Ara

port and stability. “The fiberglass shanks never bend or rust, and retains shape compared to a steel shank, which can bend or rust,” DeLong explains. “A nylon shank is not very supportive, either. And the rocker heel provides a natural heel strike, and by nailing the shank—not pegging it—makes it stronger.”

Additional features include eight to 10 rows of shaft stitching compared to the industry standard of five to six rows; a hybrid leather insole for added support in the rear foot and more flexibility in the forefoot; genuine full-grain leathers throughout, including the leather stacked heel for better structure; high abrasion rubber heel lifts; and slip-resistance in the heel for greater traction and durability. Each of the 10 styles, spanning square toe and cutter toe silhouettes, is branded on the inside shaft and on the outsole with the PRCA logo and comes in exclusive packaging. Suggested retail prices range from $330 up to $655 for exotic leathers (caiman and ostrich). Men’s sizes run 7-12, and narrow width sizes 9-12). Deliveries on select styles begin this fall to key retailers nationwide, as well as on prorodeo. com and durangoboots.com. The entire collection launches in early 2024. Women’s-specific styles are in development and, down the road, a casual could be unveiled.

In the meantime, what’s good for professional rodeo athletes is good for the Durango brand overall, according to DeLong. She describes the PRCA collection as a natural brand extension that elevates it to a new level that speaks to core consumers in western sports. “As the official boot of National Finals Rodeo, we want to target those end consumers who want a higher performance product from our brand,” she says. “Branding it now with the PRCA makes it even more official.” DeLong adds, “Durango’s overall goal is to provide rodeo athletes and consumers best-in-class premium footwear for their needs and lifestyle that they can wear, trust, and perform in, and the PRCA collection provides that and more.”

PRCA CEO Tom Glause concurs. “We want to align with a brand that shares a similar ethos and commitment to the western industry as we do,” he says. “Durango is by far our ideal partner, and we’re thrilled to offer this new collection to rodeo athletes because we both understand how to develop products that winners wear.” Paul Eaves, two-time world champion Team Roping Heeler, says the collab is a merger of the best brands in their respective fields. “The PRCA is the unsurpassed leader in sanctioning the sport of professional rodeo by providing the best cowboys, the best cowgirls, the best rodeos, and now the best footwear with Durango Boots,” he says.

Cat Footwear Teams with ThinkBIG

to-school conversation. “We want to make sure we are supporting the next generation of these workers. Caterpillar’s ThinkBIG program provides a great way for students to develop their skills in construction and provides opportunities to expand their careers.”

That’s exactly what ThinkBIG is doing for Hanna Burl, who attends Mesa Community College in Arizona and is one of the students chosen to kick off the partnership. ThinkBig has taught her about engine rebuilding and electrical troubleshooting. “I’ve been able to further my career as a technician,” she says. “It’s really paid off, and it’s been very rewarding, especially learning a new skill set.” Burl adds, “I would suggest the ThinkBig program to anyone who wants to go into the trades.”

WITH A CURRENT SHORTAGE of 500,000 construction workers in the United States, Cat Footwear is celebrating students who are choosing careers in the trade and as a way to encourage others to consider doing so as well. The license of Wolverine Worldwide is partnering with Caterpillar Inc.’s ThinkBIG, an instructional program that pays students while training in the field. The two-year program alternates between labs and classroom work, along with a paid internship at a sponsoring Caterpillar dealership.

The partnership kicks off this fall with Cat Footwear selecting three students from three community colleges to tell their stories and experiences while working in the program. Cat Footwear will amplify their stories across media platforms through sharing construction tips, school checklists, and inspiration for other students on this career journey. In addition, the brand will donate 500 pairs of shoes to students in the ThinkBIG program, host a giveaway for $300 to be used on CatFootwear.com, and offer a student and teacher promotion during the campaign.

“Cat Footwear values individuals who have dedicated their careers to construction—we wouldn’t exist without them,” says Lauren Heindl, senior marketing manager, adding that the partnership is a way to recognize students who are largely left out of the traditional back-

The other two students—Juan Ramos, who attends Oklahoma State University Institute of Technology, and Nick Chauser, a student at Owens Community College in Ohio—concur on the value of ThinkBIG and the potential of a rewarding career in construction. “Through my training and working in the shops I’ve gained a lot of knowledge,” Ramos says. “I’ve learned how to properly rig heavy iron and a lot of technical skills, such as rebuilding engines, measuring components, and inspecting them to see if they’re usable or if they have to be replaced.” Chauser’s aim is for ThinkBIG’s training to enable him to become fluent in every machine, in addition to being able to diagnose and troubleshoot. “I’d definitely recommend this career path to kids coming out of high school, because there’s just so many opportunities right now in construction,” he says. “If you’re just ready to get into the workforce, there’s plenty of money to be made.”

Heindl says Cat Footwear plans to deepen and expand its partnership with ThinkBIG going forward. That includes outfitting students in the program with footwear to help keep them protected on the job, as well as sharing unique stories each back-to-school season as well as of those whose careers are moving onto their next stages. “Think graduation, first year on the job, and all the next big steps that come in the careers of those who choose construction,” she says. “Our goal with this partnership is to help students in construction feel valued and celebrated.”

The work brand is celebrating students starting careers in construction.

Hanna Burl

Q&A

BY GREG DUTTER

WIN-WIN

Rusty Hall, president and CEO of Mephisto USA, on how a Golden Rule approach to brand management is lighting the way for the premium comfort market leader.

RUSTY HALL HAS been around the shoe industry block more than once. A lot more, in fact. His career is fast closing in on a half century. It spans 25 years working in retail and the last 23 years in wholesale, which includes two stints—separated by a five-year gap from 2015 to 2020—as president and CEO of Mephisto USA. With such extensive expertise and experience, Hall has pretty much seen it all—the downturns, upturns, and upheavals. Perhaps that’s why he exudes a seen that/survived that calmness. He’s not the type to make pie-in-the-sky projections, nor does he go overboard chasing the latest fads. Indeed, Hall is an even keel exec who’s charting a steady course for growth for the premium French comfort brand.

Take the recent trade show in Atlanta. On one hand, Hall (like many others) reports that the show was very well attended and the prevailing mood among buyers was strongly optimistic. “Saturday and most of Sunday we were jammed; we couldn’t have taken another appointment in our booth,” he says. “It was all very positive. People were very complimentary of our brand and our Spring/Summer ’24 collections, and many were looking to buy more.” On the other hand, Hall recognizes that the overall state of retail hasn’t been stellar lately, so there’s good reason to view this sense of optimism with calculated restraint. “I don’t think there’s anybody who is pounding their chest, saying retail is the greatest thing since sliced bread right now,” he says. “So while many retailers said their business has been very good—and some even quoted six to eight months in a row of gains—there’s still plenty of reason to be cautious.”

Hall offers a number of reasons to hedge your bets. For example, no one knows how the upcoming presidential election will impact business. Nor can anyone predict whether much of the Northeast will experience another snowless winter. “Election years are historically not good,” he says. “And buyers don’t know what to expect with the weather. ‘Are we going to get any snow this year, and will I need boots? Will spring arrive late across much of the country and stall my sandals business again?’ There’s always something in the back of retailers’ minds that

gives them good reason to be wary.”

Of course, compared to the pandemic he just guided Mephisto through, these uncertainties seem like bumps in the road. Hall is a firm believer that if you survived that, you can survive pretty much anything. As fate would have it, he returned to the company in January 2020, following a run as president of Abeo. “My timing was impeccable,” he sighs. “We had some things cued up for what could have led to an unbelievable year, and January through March was an unbelievable three months. But then the world fell apart.”

Hall and his team got down to business right away, doing everything they could to adapt and survive. “We learned very quickly how to get lean and

mean, and how to focus,” he says, noting that being privately held and owning factories have been vital advantages. “We didn’t have to rely on other factories to do our work, and we learned how to focus on key items and to flow product better,” Hall says. “We also realized early on how important it is to have troops on the ground, developing and keeping relationships going. The information they provide is important, and you need to receive it quickly to be able to respond quickly and accurately.”

Hall’s retail roots allow him to genuinely understand retailers’ concerns and needs, because he’s lived them. He started out working the floors of Thom McAn stores in his hometown of Dallas, managed Naturalizer and Red Cross (later Easy Spirit) stores for Milgram Kagan in Chicago, and eventually owned seven stores in the Houston and San Antonio areas. “I understand their need for margin, seasonality, on-time deliveries, dating, and good terms to balance out the flow of goods,” he says. “It’s not about dumping it on the front end of a season and showing up at the end to find out what the results were.” Hall believes wholesalers should be involved throughout a season to help maximize turns. “I’ve never been associated with a company that just sells case packs and checks in at the end of a season, regardless of whether it was a good or bad year,” he says.

All Mephisto programs and policies must meet Hall’s win-win threshold. That spans discounts, extended terms, custom packages, etc. “We’ll work on inventory balancing and managing their order intake and flow,” Hall explains. “That’s what helped get us through Covid; we were able to take shoes back and cancel some orders that most brands couldn’t or wouldn’t do.” For example, Mephisto is currently offering 120 to 150 days dating on spring deliveries scheduled to arrive in November and December at resort locations. “I know nobody else can touch that,” he says, emphasizing that being privately owned makes such flexibility possible.

Hall’s win-win business philosophy is also why Mephisto’s retail partners will never receive a Dear John letter informing them of a breakup. At least, not while he is in charge. “I guarantee they will never get that letter from me,” he confirms. “Those letters set a very bad precedent, and it’s also a very bad strategy.” Hall is a firm believer in the importance of the independent retail tier for the long-term health of the industry. “Independents have launched just about every major brand in the country,” he says. “Most brands got their start with an independent somewhere before they ever got to Nordstrom or Zappos.”

Hall is a shoe industry lifer, and he takes great pride in that. After all these years, the biz is in his blood. Now it’s time to pass on that knowledge. One of his top priorities is mentoring the next generation of industry professionals within Mephisto and beyond. He believes the industry is in desperate need of new blood. He also wants to show that it can be a rewarding career, like it has been for him. His love for his work keeps him coming in each day. Well, that and the solid growth prospects he envisions for Mephisto, which he considers “one of the best names in the industry” with one of the “most loyal consumer followings” he’s seen in all his shoe years. “And yet a lot of people still don’t know about us, because we’re a premium brand and not a ‘fashion brand’ or a ‘marketing brand,’” Hall says. “Mephisto is a product brand—one that you can be proud to sell, the same way consumers are proud to own.”

What made you come back to Mephisto for a second go ’round?

For starters, I still had a great relationship with (Mephisto Managing Director) Marc Michaeli. We were talking one day, and he asked if there was a way I’d come back? I said there was nothing that would keep me from coming back—if you asked. He did. I just love the brand and the product. Then

there’s the enormous growth potential I see. I believe we’re positioned to have strong sustainable growth over the next three to five years.

It helps that you are managing a brand that you truly respect from a product standpoint. For sure. I’m very bullish on our brand. While the Ons and Hokas of the worlds have been extremely hot, it’s not as hot as it has been. There’s plenty of growth opportunities for Mephisto. We’re very proud of our heritage and that we hold our DNA of making premium footwear for men and women to the highest level. We just celebrated our 58th year and are looking forward to our 60th celebration. We also just recently launched our sustainability brand, Nature Is Future (NIF), to speak to our lifelong commitment to sustainability through the use of natural materials, like rubber, cork, and latex. NIF now uses food waste and recycled bottles to create a product that is over 92 percent sustainable.

You noted how it’s been a sneaker-driven world since the pandemic. How is that impacting Mephisto?

On the men’s side, it looks to remain a comfort hybrid driven market. I mean, if I see another dress upper with a sneaker bottom…But that’s probably the new normal for men. Personally, I haven’t

OFF THE CUFF

What are you reading? Wisdom of the Bullfrog: Leadership Made Simple (But Not Easy) by Admiral William H. McRaven.

What was the last movie you saw? Oppenheimer.

What might people be surprised to know about you? I ride Harley’s to relax.

What is the best piece of business advice you’ve ever received? Always look for the win-win in every decision.

Who is your most coveted dinner guest? On earth, it’s with my daughters. I learn so much from listening to them share their lives and challenges. After earth, I have a huge list!

What is least favorite word? Hate.

What is inspiring you right now? All the external creative collaborations that are coming Mephisto’s way. We need to find more ways to bring creativity into the shoe business.

What did you want to be when you grew up? A police o cer or a CPA. Who knew?

What was your first-ever paying job? Pin setter at a bowling alley.

What was your first concert and your best concert? Chicago with Three Dog Night was my first. Garth Brooks was my best, even though I’m not a huge country music aficionado.

Where is your moment of Zen? On the deck of our lake house with my wife sitting next to me.

What is your motto? Treat everyone as I want to be treated.

What is your favorite hometown memory? I grew up in Dallas, and it’s of watching the Cowboys win their first Super Bowl under Coach Tom Landry.

worn a suit—with the exception of a wedding or a funeral—in three years.

Even for those occasions, you probably wouldn’t wear a leather-soled shoe. Exactly. That fashion shift isn’t going away any time soon. But I think women’s is different. My wife, for example, loves to dress up. As soon as special occasion events came back after Covid, she went right back to getting dressed up. That definitely hasn’t happened in men’s. So we’ve got to continue to develop men’s styles with a hybrid comfort flair. That can include wingtips built on a Goodyear welt construction, but it’s on a comfort bottom. In women’s, it means we’ve got to continue making product look feminine to match the lifestyle she’s leading. That means dressier uppers on wedges, for example. We’re not a Jimmy Choo or Stuart Weitzman, but at the same time, we must offer a level of style and design that appeals to that customer.

For example?

We’re a premium price point, so we have to do it through quality of materials and constructions,

high-fashion brand. Rather, we’re an on-fashion brand. We understand what’s trending from color palette and style perspectives, but we have to appropriate those aspects into a quality fit and comfort that will last a very long time. On that note, we’ve always been a popular travel brand. Mephisto is the brand for a woman who might be attending Paris Fashion Week. We get her from airport to airport in comfort and on-trend style, but how she dresses at the shows is an entirely different matter. The return of travel, in general, since Covid has been big for us, and a big focus of ours. But we surely would benefit a lot if more people returned to working in offices. Otherwise, slippers and sneakers will continue to rule the world.

Is that shift, in fact, the new normal?

We need some things to happen, or frankly not happen, in the global economy to get us all back to that kind of normal. Our biggest challenge has been the workforce, or lack thereof. Our cities have been devastated by work from home, as well as the number of people who’ve totally dropped off the grid. That’s impacted the men’s category the most,

up. The Barbie effect may push them to want to do so even more now.

It’s been a banner year for Barbie. How would you assess 2023 for Mephisto?

It’s been an ok year so far. It was challenging initially, because we’re know for our sandals and this spring was very wet and cool in most of the country. California, for example, is a big piece of our overall business and they were hit with epic snowfall, floods, and mudslides. It seems like this year I’ve watched the weather more than I’ve watched other news. Fortunately, the last three months kicked in nicely for us. We’ve leveled out for the year and we’re back into the numbers that we expect to be doing.

So what can go wrong with fall?

Summer could last through October. That would screw up the whole retail calendar again. Because the calendar, for many majors, still says we should have fall collections on display by mid-August. Sorry to say, but your customer is going to go away for six weeks. The buying calendar has shifted. We now sell more boots after the holidays than before, especially in men’s hiking. Because that’s when they need it.

Lots of execs have said inflation, supply chain disruption, Ukraine war—just to cite a few problems—has made the year more challenging than the previous two years. Would you agree? We’ve had little, if any, supply chain disruptions this year as we took measures in late 2021 to pre-buy certain core groups. Our factories in France and Portugal also planned ahead to offset any challenges on the supply chain side. Inflation and the interest rate adjustments, however, have been more of a factor on the overall economy and curtailing positive reactions from consumers.

Then why do you think, as many in the industry reported, that there was so much optimism about the business in general at the Atlanta show last month?

I think that most retailers have had about two years to really master their ecommerce business or developed one. Also, a lot of consumers are coming back to shop in stores as the months go by. So their traffic overall is better. They’re making up the numbers that way. That’s what’s been happening in our flagship stores. Business at our (22) brick-and-mortar stores is up nicely. It’s a good 15 to 20 percent up.

Going into the year with all the headwinds, are you surprised to be up that much?

Somewhat. I was surprised by the pervasive positive mood among retailers in Atlanta. There weren’t conversations asking for help to dig them out of a hole, or they needed to cancel a bunch of orders. But that’s also the nature of independent retailers. They don’t get wrapped up in all the negative noise that many public companies do. They’re not worried about the quarterly returns. They’re not driven by the fact that last quarter was bad, even though this quarter might be looking better. Most of these guys operate week-to-week. It’s a case of, ‘Hey, I had I had a good month last month, and I’m ahead of that month this month, so I’m expecting a good month next month.’ That might be an overly simplistic explanation, and I’m not saying they aren’t sophisticated in their approach, but they aren’t as knee-jerk reactionary. They have a longer-term view. Also, I think many are finding that most manufacturers are currently heavy in inventory and more than happy to sell shoes at a good price and they’ve got shoes that they want, when they want them. They’re in the driver’s seat right now. That’s helping generate the optimism, too.

Was the good vibes your biggest takeaway from the show?

The optimism was, for sure. For the most part, everybody was talking about growth and how they are planning to move forward. It helps that many of these retailers have very loyal customers that they’ve developed over the years. Those relationships are an asset that they hold over a lot of majors. These retailers live in their communities and have developed strong ties. They may not be doing $1 billion annually, but I guarantee most are happy with what they are doing of late.

Still, there are fewer independents overall. Unfortunately, yes. But I think that’s a multiprong issue. I don’t think it’s strictly related to sales volume. I’ve been expressing my concerns for the last 10 years about the next generation of independents. There’s not enough youth coming into our industry. I’ve seen far more people leave this business than come into it. We have to draw more younger people to the industry. Who’s going to take the mantle of these businesses as retailers age out? NSRA’s NextGen committee saw the concern and a few even addressed it, like Comfort One, Hanig’s Footwear, The Shoe Mill, and

>39

REEL ’EM IN

The classic fisherman sandal is always a good catch.

Aerosoles

4ccccees

All Black

Clarks

Clarks

Ecco

Xtratuf

Oofos

BEYOND THE PALE

Nothing says spring like a bouquet of warm pastels.

The Original Muck Boot Company

Cougar

Birkenstock

Asportuguesas

Steve Madden

White Mountain

Dingo

PREPPY HIGH

The all-American silhouette gets a stylish upgrade.

4ccccees

Clarks NeroGiardini

Sanctuary

Biion slip-ons with perforated uppers.

Cowboy boots with fill-quill ostrich vamps and full-grain leather uppers by by Twisted X

Converse canvas platform hi-tops with skate-inspired suede eyerow overlays and punched eyelets.

Opposite page: chunky joggers with with mixed material uppers by Javi

Waterproof EVA sport slides with anatomically shaped comfort footbeds by Birkenstock

Doll-sized plastic slip-ons by Mattel Skechers sneakers featuring Memory Foam insoles.

Doll-sized plastic derbys by Mattel

Aetrex mesh joggers with built-in arch support.

Ace Marks suede sneakers with contrast stitching.

Doll-sized plastic oxfords by Mattel

L’Artiste horsebit loafers with moc toe stitching detail. Opposite page, clockwise from top: Lowa lightweight trail runner; work jogger with carbon composite toe guard by Cat Footwear; espadrille slip-on by Geox; water-friendly boat shoe by Sanuk; Ambitious perforated slip-on.

Micro suede platform sneakers with stud embellishments by Steve Madden

Leather boat shoes made in Maine by Quoddy Opposite page, from top: sneaker mules featuring recycled uppers by Psudo; Lamo knit upper boat shoes with EVA soles; recovery sandals with high-absorbency midsoles by Oofos

Fashion editor: Kathleen

O’Reilly; model: Tristan Paine/ Q Management; hair and makeup: Zaiya Latt/Bryan

Bantry Agency; digital tech: Emma Devereaux; production assistant: Eileen Viglietta. Shot on location at Underworld Productions, Patchogue. NY.

Jump and Javi

The streetwear brand is turning heads with its bold designs.

“The vibrant colors and patterns of Latin culture, the urban influences from New York City, and the sleek and modern aesthetic from Hong Kong all come together to create our unique and diverse designs.” For Javi’s Spring/Summer ’24 collection that blend translates to lots of color blocking and even glow-in-the-dark elements incorporated into select outsoles as more people wear athletic shoes for nighttime occasions, according to Santana.

As for Javi’s customer, Santana says it starts with those who like to stand out and be seen. “Our target demographic is Millennials who live in urban areas,” he says. “They gravitate toward Javi for our innovative style that breaks the norm for high-end fashion.” Consumers, he adds, are also attracted to Javi’s price range of $120-$130. “Customers can buy on-trend, avant-garde designer looks—with great comfort features—all at affordable price points,” he adds.

Looking three years out, Santana says the goal is to establish Javi as a go-to brand with a loyal following. That includes an expanded product line as well as entering new markets, both domestically and internationally. Also in the works are collaborations with major sports figures and musicians. Plenty of growth opportunities await the brand, he says. The future is bright. “I envision Javi as a leader in the market known for innovative design,” Santana says.

In the meantime, Santana continues to do the job he loves in an industry he loves equally. It’s an ongoing success story that has enabled him to donate thousands of pairs to the Dominican Republic to help disadvantaged people. “I take pride in being someone my community can look up to,” he says.

JAVIER SANTANA’S 30 years-plus footwear resume is legit. So much so, in fact, it carries a streetwear brand named after himself: Javi. His career spans having owned nine stores in New York followed by a crossover into designing, developing, and manufacturing collections for Robert Wayne, Opening Ceremony, Paige Denim, Veronica Beard, and 7 for All Mankind, among others. But the burning desire to helm his own brand always smoldered and, in 2016, finally caught fire.

“With streetwear on the rise, we found a gap that we could fill,” Santana says. “We’re influenced by high-end luxury designers where we extrapolate trendy, unique design elements into beautiful footwear. We don’t copy, we create.”

Javi’s intersection of streetwear and high fashion consists of bold designs that are edgy, urban, and fashion-forward. Signature aspects include a dynamic lacing system and intricate outsoles coupled with mixed media uppers. “I see color combinations and shapes differently than most designers,” Santana says. “Footwear is like art to me. I travel extensively, and have combined my love of music with travel to inspire me as I design.”

Santana is a citizen of the world, which is a blend of his Dominican roots with growing up in Manhattan’s Washington Heights neighborhood and having lived part-time in Hong Kong for years. That bouillabaisse bleeds into Javi designs. “I incorporate elements from each culture,” he explains.

That’s where Santana’s extensive industry experience comes into play. He knows how to make a good shoe. It starts with his strong relationships with reliable factories and suppliers, and understanding the manufacturing process from soup to shoes. “By working with different labels, I learned what works and what doesn’t in terms of design, materials, and marketing strategies,” he says. “Applying all this knowledge in launching Javi helped avoid many potential pitfalls.”

Santana also speaks fluent retail. He understands what sells and why. The “priceless” lessons learned running his nine stores included getting early reads on the latest market trends, providing excellent customer service (and getting critical feedback), managing inventory, understanding the timing and logistics of retail, and perfecting effective merchandising strategies. “I always think about how my brand will be displayed on the retail floor,” he says, noting that he merchandised all sorts of brands during those retailing years. “How customers perceive your brand is critical.”

So far, so good, Santana reports. Seven years in, Javi has carved out a niche in the streetwear marketplace alongside industry giants like Nike, Adidas, and New Balance. The brand can be found in carefully curated outlets, including DTLR, Snipes, Journeys, and Finish Line. This year, especially, Javi has picked up the pace, Santana reports. “Our business is on fire!” he says, giving due credit to the brand’s distributors and retail partners worldwide. “Just in this year alone, we’ve secured major distributors in Latin America, South Africa, UK, and Canada.”

The icing on Santana’s cake: recently bringing his daughter, Samantha, into the Javi fold. She is handling the back end of the business, which will provide with her incredible industry experience. Like father like daughter, you might say. “I treasure the relationships I’ve built with my customers, suppliers, and, especially, my employees,” Santana says. “The trust and dedication they have all shown to me is immeasurable.” —Greg

Dutter

TIPPING POINTS

Matt Priest, president and CEO of the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America, shares helpful tips from a life better led.

DEAR MATT, This is a letter from your 46-year-old self. No, you’re not going crazy! Recall the plot of Back to the Future and just stay with me for a bit. You won’t be disappointed. I’ve got some great life tips that will make us better off. Remember, we’re in this together. As added incentive, I’ll include a few amazing stock tips if you read on. Deal? Cool.

We’re 18 and just graduated from high school. We’re super busy as we head off to North Carolina State University. (Go Wolfpack!) Life’s been good so far, but a quick heads up: Our current girlfriend ain’t the one. Trust me. Moving on.

Now, I’ve got good and bad news. Knowing us, we’ll want to only read about the good news and sweep the bad news under the rug. But that’s no way to navigate life. We must meet whatever comes our way, and when it comes. Life tip No. 1: Ignoring bad news only leads to more bad news.

Now for some good news: You’re alive at 46! With chronic high cholesterol running through our family—including a grandfather who died of a heart attack at 36—that dark cloud hangs over us. Thankfully, tons of statins and other injectable drugs makes us good to go—and still (hint) running strong. Life tip No. 2: It helps a lot that we become an avid runner. (I know, totally shocking.)

Just out of college, more good news comes our way. That’s when we meet the gal of our dreams, who soon becomes our wife. She’s full of beauty, grace, and wisdom. Together, we’ll bring into this world three beautiful daughters. I know we grew up in a house full of dudes, but being a “girl dad” is where it’s at! Our family life is robust and active and interesting. We’re blessed beyond belief!

Now, about our career…We’ll graduate, no problem, earning a degree in political science. That said, school ain’t really our thing. (See what I mean?) Graduating college is only a means to a beginning, which takes a year or two (or three) to finally land on a career track in government affairs. It leads to many amazing adventures. Like working for the president of the United States and traveling the world in support of global trade! Can you believe that?! Later on, we work in support of the world’s greatest footwear companies, again traveling the world. Our career is one wildly enjoyable ride.

Our first stop, in 2003, is on Capitol Hill, working for Sue Myrick, an amazing U.S. Representative from North Carolina. It’s during our threeyear stint there that we’ll send a pivotal email that alters the course of our life forever. That may seem a tad dramatic, but it segues nicely to life tip No. 3: Remember to step outside of our comfort zone and volunteer to take on challenging issues when such opportunities arise.

Doing just that propels us to help move major trade legislation through the U.S. House of Representatives and, in the process, catch the eye of the Office of Presidential Personnel at the White House. That leads us to becoming a Deputy Assistant Secretary, at age 29, at the U.S. Department of Commerce during the George W. Bush Administration.

Then, in 2009, we’ll land our current job as President and CEO of the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA) trade association. Here, we help support global businesses like Nike, Adidas, Wolverine Worldwide, Caleres, Foot Locker, Rack Room Shoes, and Designer Brands Inc., to cite a few. It’s a big job with tons of responsibility, but we love the dynamic and fast-paced shoe biz. FDRA proudly serves 95 percent of the industry, boosting sales and pushing back against increased tariffs. We also host amazing seminars around the world, help companies classify thousands of shoes, lobby global governments, testify before Congress and administration agencies, educate on best sustainable manufacturing practices, cofound the Black Footwear Forum (one of our proudest accomplishments), and host a podcast, which is the future‘s version of a talk radio show. We even appear on TV numerous times as the industry’s main spokesperson, helping shoe companies thrive and compete globally.

We work hard and long hours, but that’s no different than the equally dedicated people we serve. FDRA members have blessed us immensely with their trust and confidence to serve their interests as best as we possibly can. We’re fortunate to work with many gifted executives. We rely on these people tremendously, and learn so much from them. While it’s too many to list here, remember all their names.

That leads to life tip No. 4: Really get to know the people we work alongside. That, of course, includes our beloved FDRA family. Namely, Andy Polk, Thomas Crockett, Sandi Mines, Sabria Butler, Jolie Gracia, Ashley Moore, and Gary Raines. Each relationship is special. Cherish them.

Now for a little bad news. There’s going to be turbulence along the way. That’s life, even if some of it is self-inflicted. So here’s life tip No. 5: Remember how God described Himself to Moses on Mount Sinai as He reveled His glory to him. “The Lord, the Lord, the compassionate and gracious God, slow to anger, abounding in love and faithfulness, maintaining love to thousands, and forgiving wickedness, rebellion and sin.” We experience God’s love, compassion, and forgiveness repeatedly. Trust me and, more importantly, trust Him. He won’t let us down.

That’s enough bestowment for a busy 18 year old to absorb. Now for those stock tips: Apple, Pfizer (don’t ask), and Nike. Oh, and hold onto those Air Jordan 4s and 6s, and Magic Johnson Converse Weapons. They’re worth a ton in 2023! You’re welcome.

Take care buddy. You got this!

Sincerely,

Matt

P.S. Don’t expect another letter in 46 years. That’s not happening.

Matt Priest in 2006 as a member of the George W. Bush Administration

Heel Raiser V

With a penchant for designing statement heels, Voyette Lee is carving out a niche one killer style at a time.

By Greg Dutter

OYETTE LEE OFFICIALLY arrived on the shoe scene in 2019. That’s when the Miami native incorporated the word “slay”—in gold Swarovski crystals—into the vamps of her Voyette black strappy, 120-millimeter stiletto sandals. The killer shoes quickly caught the attention of A-listers, and Lee’s label scored much-needed startup buzz. She quickly followed that up with another killer style: booties featuring silver “barbed wire” stiletto heels. She now counts Tyra Banks, Blac Chyna, and Keke Palmer as fans.

“That became my signature,” Lee says, noting that the barbed wire heel has carried over into several other styles since. “The juxtaposition of a cute, sexy heel in the design of lethal barbed wire just speaks to women.”

Lee is all about speaking to women who want to stand out from the crowd— but not break the bank doing so. Voyette’s SRP ranges from $270-$579. “It’s not super cheap, but they aren’t super expensive either for designer shoes,” she says. Above all, the self-taught designer “never wants to do what someone else is doing.” That’s how her barbed wire heel came about, which combines her love of the Old West with a desire to ABE (always be edgy). “Voyette is about unique luxury heels with amazing details,” she says. “A pop of color here and there, injected with a little sass, and accessorized to perfection.”

Perhaps it’s no surprise that Lee, in her teen years, was a huge fan of Manolo Blahnik’s take on the classic Timberland wheat boot that Jennifer Lopez helped introduce to the fashion masses. “I fell in love with those boots, and I became obsessed with shoes in general!” she says. To be precise, there were signs of this impending obsession as early as age nine. That’s when she and a cousin started playing dress-up in her mother’s “church” shoes. “That’s when I discovered high heels, and from then on my love for shoes grew and grew,” Lee says. “As I grew into my teens, I dropped all signs of my tomboy phase, and all things girly-girly became my focus.”

After several years of window shopping designer brands, Lee started sketching her own shoe styles. The seed to becoming a designer was planted. It was followed soon after by her leap of faith—thanks in part to the examples set forth on social media—to turn that dream into a reality. “I had no formal training or knowledge about the shoe business, but I decided to create my own brand after seeing other women starting their own businesses online,” she says. “I thought, ‘If they can do it, so can I!’”

Creating great-looking shoes is hard enough, but Lee says getting brand exposure has been equally challenging. The market is saturated with labels. Plus, she says, being a “one-man army” is rife with obstacles. “Paying for

each aspect of the business out of pocket presents struggles,” she says. “This industry can be costly.” Rather than get overwhelmed, though, Lee takes it one step at a time with her eye always on the end goal. “I never rush or overextend myself to avoid stumbling along the way,” she says. “I sit back, take a deep breath, and attack each problem as they come. So far, it’s working because, here I am, with my own line!”

How’s business this year? We’ve had our ups and downs but it’s going well overall. Finding ways to market my brand has been challenging, but I’m discovering new ways to do so. My brand is continuing to grow, and I’m looking forward to more growth in the future.

What is your retail distribution strategy? In addition to selling DTC, my goal is to expand into a few major department stores as well as some luxe boutiques. I’ve had a few very promising conversations recently. Also, I’m currently testing an affiliate marketing platform that looks promising.

In what ways does your Miami background influence your designs? First off, Miami is a party town. Whether it’s brunch or night out, women love to look nice and feel beautiful—with a dash of sass. That backdrop definitely plays a major influence on my designs, as I like to make each wearer feel their absolute best when wearing heels that stand out. It all starts by envisioning a woman dressed elegantly for a night out on the town. Then I picture what type of shoes would top off her look. I want all eyes on my customer the minute she steps into a room.

From top: the Slay sandal, Voyette Lee, and her signature barbed wire heels.

Who is the Voyette woman? It’s all women, from early 20s to her sexy 60s, who love amazing and stylish heels. I design with a boardroom, an elegant restaurant, or a night on the town in mind. I design shoes that can transcend wearing occasions with ease. Some of my styles may look more like evening wear, but they don’t look out of place in corporate America, either.

Has your overall approach to design changed since the pandemic? Honestly, no. And now that life has seemingly gotten back on track and people again have places to go and events to attend, great-looking shoes are a necessity.

What are some highlights of your latest collection? I’m bringing back a few styles with my signature heels but with more pops of color. I’m also introducing more leathers as well as silks and satins with my usual twists on accessories. For example, my Latoy bootie, which is one of my current faves, features a mesh, windswept tulle crossbody drapery paired with a vintage crystal brooch. It’s unique and fashion-forward looking. It’s foot candy for your soul!

What shoe must every woman have in their closet? My Nikk PVC slingback pump is a must. It can be paired with so many items in a woman’s wardrobe—jeans, playful skirts, evening attire, you name it. It’s so right for everyone. Just make sure your pedicure is on point!

Who are some designers you admire? I admire many designers, at all different levels and regardless of how big or small they are. But I’d rather not cite names. Let’s just say I gravitate towards designers who show originality more anything else. Trendy is cute, but originality is what paves the way for the future.

What is the best business advice you’ve ever received? My friend Liz, who said, “Don’t jump into this business thinking to make money immediately. Put your time, love, and money into building your brand. It’ll all pay off later.”

What are you most proud of regarding Voyette? The fact that I’m where I am today despite no proper training. I just dove into this industry in my effort to achieve my childhood dream. I’m very proud of that. Conquering visions and bringing them to light is an accomplishment in and of itself.

What do you love most about designing shoes? I love knowing “I did that!” Also, seeing women accessorize my designs beautifully is an honor. My heart skips a beat whenever I see someone wearing one of my designs. The fact that someone loves my work is incredible validation, and it always brings a smile to my face. I love my customers, and I’m thankful to God every day for everything.

continued from page 15

Beck’s Shoes. They all developed succession plans. We’ve also brought some new and younger people into our company recently. We hired a Director of E-Commerce 18 months ago and a VP of Omni Channel Sales, who joined us about six months ago. Both have a younger eye as well as possess unique backgrounds. We need to breath some fresh air into our business as well as the industry. I believe we’re nurturing a team that will lead past my days with the company. I’m excited about that aspect, for sure.

Is this industry an easy sales pitch to young professionals?

Well, they have to see a vision of what the company is and can be. Education is part of that—getting people interested in the business and seeing that it’s fun and can be worthwhile. This industry has put my kids through college. They have to buy into that rst. They also have to see that their involvement can impact that future vision of the company. That’s really important, and it’s something that we don’t communicate very well as a society. We’ve been overly protective of our leadership positions and our claims to fame, yet it’ll all mean nothing if we can’t leave the business to someone else. I could list dozens of stores that have gone away over the past decade alone, and the only reason they did was because there was nobody behind them to take the mantle. Brucettes Shoes in Houston, for example. They had a multi-million-dollar business that went poof. And those are sales that many brands can never fully recoup. Brands are losing $10,000 here and $100,000 there with these types of closures. Multiply that by 20 or so a year and that really adds up. You have to try and make up that business somewhere else. It’s tough.

How is Mephisto countering to this shift?

I see growth opportunities for us in the specialty market, like men’s boutiques as well as chains like REI and Foot Solutions. We need to focus more on achieving growth in those types of stores. Oak Hall in Nashville is a great example. We just have to be very strategic about it. We also had recent conversations with Urban Out tters, who reached out to us, that o ers potential. Another avenue of growth is collaborations with select retailers. Over the last three years, we’ve had more requests than ever before. These kind of specialty niches are all something to look forward to. That’s why I’m excited for the future. I think we’ve got a lot of potential. And while a lot of people may point to our premium pricing, a lot of brands have come up to Mephisto. We’re no longer up there by ourselves.

So, all in all, plenty of reasons to be optimistic. Absolutely. I’m excited about the potential of our brand, and I’m excited that we brought some youth into our company. It’s my time to teach and nurture these people in this business. I get up each day and I just think this business. And while not every day is great, when we balance it all out, we’re doing ok. That’s what’s gotten me up every day of my life: What am I working for? There’s nothing out there that entices me more than coming into work. It’s just who I am.

What do you love most about your job?

The people aspect, for sure. Coming o a shoe show someone told me that I know everybody. I said that I have relationships with all these people. I’ve been around some of them for 40-plus years. I know their kids. I know their parents. I know what their favorite ice cream avor is. Without the people part of it, none of us would be here. I used to joke that this business was a sickness that I couldn’t get away from. I mean, growing up I thought I wanted to be a cop or a CPA. Yet here I am, still in the shoe business, for almost 50 years. Now I know it’s a genuine love of this industry and the people in it that have kept me here. •

Meow Mix

The ideal heel for ladies who lunch.

All Black

O2 Monde

Chris Donovan

Dolce Vita