From left: Mykos casual jogger features suede/knit upper, removable OrthoLite footbed, and lightweight EVA outsole; trail/road runner with woven mesh upper, high rebound Cr Foam midsole, and HyperGrip lugged outsole by Craft
DEPARTMENTS
On the cover, from left: Stio waterproof hikers feature maxcushioned EVA midsoles and Vibram MegaGrip outsoles with stabilizing rock plate for protection; waterproof day hikers with heel brake and aggressive lug outsoles for traction on varied terrain by Lowa
Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Mariah Walker/ Art Department; fashion editor: Kiernan McCormick; models: Rebecca Hanobik/Fenton Model Mgmt., Tommy Gray/Soul Artist Mgmt.; hair and makeup: Fumiaki Nakagawa/Next Artists; photo and styling assistant: Nellyfer Espinoza.
FEATURES
10 All in the Family Luke Chen, CEO of Alegria, on its ongoing mission to being a complete women’s comfort brand, trade war be damned. By
Greg Dutter
The Turmoil Diaries Leading executives share battle plans for surviving an epic trade war and explosive disruption upending the industry and the world. By Greg
Dutter
24 Western Roundup
Key color cues in men’s and women’s cowboy boots. By
Kiernan McCormick
26 The Outdoor Types
The wanderlust wardrobe starts with sporty, versatile, and rugged (enough) hikers and trail runners. By Kiernan
McCormick
EDITORIAL
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Darby Dutter Contributing Editor
Melodie Jeng
Marcy Swingle
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Chaos Theory
AS DEFINED BY AI, Chaos Theory explains that within the visible randomness of complex, chaotic systems, you can see inherent repetition, patterns, self-organization, interconnectedness, self-similarity, and constant feedback loops. Maybe so, but that’s definitely not the case within our industry in the past few months. There doesn’t seem to be any intelligent design that might inspire confidence that the chaos of a trade war is anything but devastating for wholesalers, retailers, and consumers—and that it will get worse the longer it drags on.
The epic disruption is already leading to less innovation and quality, and fewer shoes overall—yet prices are going up. Paying more for less is never a good business strategy. Meanwhile, many companies are buckling under the cash crunch. There are only so many added costs that can be absorbed and/or passed on, including the cost increases, both legit and opportunistic, of raw materials and shipping. And unlike the Covid pandemic, no government bailout is coming to help companies survive this fallout. Industry jobs are being lost. Thousands more are in jeopardy. For a lot of companies, this is the sledgehammer that will shatter the camel’s back.
Ironically, this trade war is designed (so says the man who started it) to bring manufacturing jobs back to the United States in droves. From a footwear perspective, there’s as much chance of that happening at a meaningful scale as President Trump giving up golf, red ties, money, and social media. It ain’t happening. It would take years and billions of dollars to create the infrastructure, never mind finding enough Americans willing to do those hard jobs. We already have approximately 18 million men aged 16 to 64 not actively seeking employment despite plenty of suitable jobs being available. Good luck filling those phantom factories with eager employees.
During the early fallout of the pandemic, Footwear Plus ran a feature titled “The Virus Diaries.” In it, various industry leaders detailed how they were dealing with the shock of Covid 19 and creating a playbook on the fly. Their insights reflected bravery, ingenuity, determination, hope, and faith. They shared a solution-oriented array of ideas and strategies. Our industry was doing everything in its power to adapt and survive. It was inspiring as much as it was informative.
I hoped we’d never again have to run such a feature, because if we did, it would mean something really traumatic had happened. Alas, here we are with “The Turmoil Diaries” (p. 14). Like before, a cross section of industry leaders reveal how they are pivoting amid this trade war and adapting to a host of other forms of turmoil ushered in by this new administration. Regardless of whether you agree with the actions and logic of President Trump, the massive fallout is real. Sweeping and indiscriminate chainsaw cuts have consequences. So does upending long-term friendships and strategic alliances. This overall disruption will extend far beyond our supply chain, and the effects will linger. Hence, the need to react and adapt. On a more positive note, the insights and strategies you’ll find in this feature are again inspiring and informative. They come from an array of doers, not do-nothing whiners. Props to the private sector!
Meanwhile, our industry sits in the crosshairs, with about 58 percent of the 2.5 billion shoes consumed annually in the U.S. currently made in China. That’s better than the 90 percent made there in 2010, but it’s still a huge number that can’t be absorbed elsewhere easily or quickly. Besides, no country is a safe haven for shoemaking right now. The lack of consistency and the volatility of tariffs is perplexing at best, paralyzing at worst. What if the rates imposed on Vietnam and Mexico, for example, go back to 40 percent next month? No wonder public companies are withholding future guidance. How can one possibly plan a business effectively amid such chaos?
Such coverage is essentially our mission: serving as a go-between for wholesalers and retailers to facilitate business. In fact, every page in every issue of Footwear Plus, be it editorial or advertisement, is solutions-oriented and offers money-making potential. It can be a Q&A with a leading wholesaler, like this month’s conversation with Alegria CEO Luke Chen (p. 10) discussing how the brand is expanding into a one-stop women’s comfort resource. It can be A Note to My Younger Self. This month contributor Sam Cohen, owner of Avenue J Shoes, offers survivor tips gained over 50 years in business—mostly at the fitting stool (p. 23). Or it can be the plethora of fashion coverage in every issue. The next trend, brand, or style that could set the fashion world on fire might be on those pages. The same goes for our advertisers, promoting their latest and greatest collections. Those advertisers include trade shows that bring our industry together to facilitate business much in the same way we do. It’s all good.
I love the synergy across all our pages. Each one provides an opportunity to help you navigate disruption, build business, and succeed over the long term. Our aim in Footwear Plus is for every page to provide a potential sellout for our readers!
Greg Dutter Editorial Director
Giddy Up Gotham
These days New York is one chic cow town. Photography by Marcy Swingle
Great Odds
The IR Show bets on Las Vegas as its forever home.
THE IR SHOW danced between San Diego and Las Vegas the past couple of years, but Show Director Gary Hauss has doubled down on making Sin City the show’s home for at least the foreseeable future.
“We believe it’s absolutely the right place for IR,” Hauss says. “While San Diego is beautiful and we’ve enjoyed our time there, rising hotel costs and travel logistics made it increasingly difficult for both attendees and exhibitors. Hotel prices were consistently exceeding $250 per night and, during July, Comic-Con takes over the entire city, which forced our dates to shift into February or August. Those time frames simply don’t work for us.”
Las Vegas, on the other hand, is far more accessible. It’s easier and more affordable to reach with a wide range of non-stop flights from nearly every major U.S. city. Hotel rates are also much more reasonable, and show organizers have secured room blocks at two properties directly connected to the Horseshoe Convention Event Center. “This space allows retailers to experience the entire show under one roof, which is key to maximizing their time and investment,” Hauss says, adding that the city’s unparalleled mix of dining, entertainment, and convenience makes downtime “Disneyland for adults.”
As for the July 22-24 timing, Hauss sees it at as ideal. Its positioned just ahead of some of other major industry events, giving retailers a valuable head start. And for vendors it means earlier orders and a longer runway to deliver. “It’s a win-win for both sides,” he says.
As for what attendees can look forward to at this edition, Hauss is excited to bring back
The Social, hosted by USRA, on the evening of July 21. “It’s a vibrant networking event set in a nightclub (TBD) with drinks and appetizers—an ideal way for vendors and retailers to reconnect before the show kicks off,” he says. In addition, the show opens with complimentary coffee and donuts, courtesy of USRA, followed by a complimentary pizza lunch (while supplies last) sponsored by The IR Show. Throughout the day, there will be additional treats, and day one will end with an on-site Mix ’n’ Mingle cocktail hour, also sponsored by IR.
Day two will again start with complimentary coffee and donuts followed by a retail panel: Retail Reimagined: Insights That Drive the Future at 7:45 a.m. That evening will be Conversations Over Cocktails with Josh and Joel Habre of The Shoe Mill. It’s an opportunity for meaningful dialogue in a relaxed, fun setting, Hauss says. Of course, a topic of discussion at all events will be the ongoing trade war. “Both our Retail Reimagined panel and the Conversations Over Cocktails events will touch on how retailers and brands are navigating supply chain disruptions, import costs, and broader economic instability,” he says.
Speaking of instability, Hauss believes attending a trade show can serve as a port in the storm for learning new strategies and discovering growth opportunities. Hauss, a veteran of retail for more than 50 years, walks the talk. He never missed a WSA show in all those years. “Shows like IR allow retailers to see most of their vendors in just a few days, even if just to touch base,” he says. “They’re a prime opportunity to discover what’s new—products, trends, and innovations that might not be on their radar yet.” In addition, networking, especially
amid such industry disruption, can make a huge difference. “There’s nothing like catching up with retail friends from across the country,” he says, noting that the open-floor format makes IR easy to navigate. “Unlike the old fortress-style booths some shows moved toward, we want IR to feel welcoming and accessible.”
The IR Show is like the fairytale, Goldielocks and the Three Bears : not too big and not too small. Attendees can see and learn a lot—all in the entertainment capital of America. “Unlike small hotel shows or caravans, larger shows like IR offer sessions where retailers can learn from industry leaders and each other,” Hauss says. “Also, IR brings more than just sales reps to the table—attendees will meet with presidents, marketing directors, and other decision-makers.” Hauss adds, “We’re building the West Coast’s must-attend show—with all the accessibility, networking, and education today’s retailers need.
Ara
Paint the town neon in Sin City.
Q&A
BY GREG DUTTER
ALL IN THE FAMILY
Luke Chen, CEO of Alegria, on its ongoing mission to being a complete women’s comfort brand, trade war be damned.
ALEGRIA MADE ITS the debut in 2008—smack dab in the middle of the Financial Crisis. That markets meltdown ushered in the Great Recession, the most severe economic downturn since the Great Depression. It was tough enough for established brands to stay afloat, let alone a clogs startup run by a small, familyowned company, Pepper Gate Footwear, based just outside of Los Angeles.
Yet, over the ensuing 17 years, Alegria not only survived but thrived. Despite those early stiff headwinds, it hit the ground running with its colorful and whimsical pattern uppers paired with a patented ergonomical and removable footbed made of soft PU, cork, and memory foam that, thanks to a unique interlocking system, firmly secures to a slip-resistant, mild rocker outsole suitable on many surfaces. The health care industry adopted Alegria quickly. The prints served as a way to add a little spice to their scrubs. Plus, the shoes were comfortable for people on their feet for hours at a time. Teachers and other professionals quickly joined the party. Alegria had that all-important signature item—the seed to what can grow into a complete brand.
Indeed, Alegria’s sales have steadily grown over the years while the line has expanded into other silhouettes—all with a proprietary comfort footbeds as the foundation. And while there have been many additional challenges faced since its debut, the brand has found ways to adapt and evolve. The trade war is just the latest hurdle, albeit it’s a doozy. Eighty-five percent of Alegria’s line is currently sourced out of China. While a 30 percent tariff is a far cry from 145 percent, it’s difficult to absorb
fully, especially when the cost for just about everything else business-related has increased too. CEO Luke Chen and his team have been cramming for weeks looking for sourcing alternatives and savings. To date, they have not announced any price increases to its retail partners. The situation remains highly volatile.
“It’s all very challenging, especially for a company our size,” Chen says. “Because it’s difficult to just hop up and move to another country to produce shoes. For starters, our factory partners in China make high-quality shoes. A lot of our retailers would speak to that quality, which we won’t compromise on. It’s hard to find a factory of similar standards in other locations.”
That trust factor works both ways, Chen adds. If tariffs are lowered to a manageable percentage or cancelled, what’s to stop companies from going back to their China-based factories? He says those factories aren’t wrong to fear how that could negatively impact their businesses. That makes finding new sourcing partners even more challenging.
Nonetheless, Chen has been focused on doing just that, which began somewhat during the pandemic and is now in hyper drive. “We have to move that much faster to find the right partners and suppliers outside of China,” he says. The company has already worked with factories in other parts of Asia, and now Mexico, Brazil, and Europe are in play. It helps that after 35 years in business, the company has made lots of contacts around the world. Specifically, Chen’s father and company founder, Johnny Chen, has blazed that trail. “We have friends in other countries, and we’re calling them to see what we can do together,” Chen says. “Our goal is to move at least half of our production elsewhere by next year.”
That may not sound like a lot, but it is to Alegria. “We don’t have a lot of resources like a major brand that can go into a new country and present a $5 million order,” he says. “So we have to pick and choose the right suppliers, and that’s going to take some time, because I don’t want to disappoint our retailers by delivering sub-par product.”
Of course, time is of the essence. For one thing, a pause is just that. Who knows what might happen. And it’s not like Alegria is the only company seeking new factory partners. Think musical chairs, the Hunger Games version. “If this trade war gets worse, we’re going to see a lot of businesses in trouble,” Chen says. “And consumers will likely have to pay more for shoes, which obviously isn’t good for business. It’s all very challenging.”
Chen believes this industry turmoil is worse than the pandemic. First, the playing field hasn’t been fair. For several weeks, companies sourcing in China had faced 145 percent tariffs while other countries were at 10 percent. That rate was paralyzing. Second, there’s been a shock to the supply chain that will take months to smoothen out. Footwear companies are competing with all sorts of industries for that coveted container space, and smaller companies will likely be at the back of the line. Third, there is no government bailout coming.
“At least during the pandemic everyone was dealing with the same things, and we all had to work together to get out of it,” Chen says. “This is every company for itself. It’s beyond anything that we’ve ever dealt with.”
It helps that Chen is far from alone in this fight. Alegria is a family business in every sense of the word. Chen’s wife, sister, and brother in-law are part of the team. And his father is still involved with product development. “Dad’s always been a product guy; he’s always messing around with shoes,” Chen says. “He’s very passionate about that.”
What’s more, the core team has been together since well before the Alegria days, which has helped build strong relationships with suppliers and retailers. In addition, the customer service and warehouse managers and outside sales team have been with the company since 2008. Chen takes a lot of pride in that consistency. “This is a people business and to be surrounded by some of the best in the industry allows us to build great relationships with our customers,” he says, noting that’s equally important to making great products. “It means retailers can trust that we’ll hold ourselves accountable on being a good partner.”
Chen believes aligning with the right people inside and outside the company has been the key to its longevity. “Without that, this business can get
Q&A
OFF THE CUFF
What are you reading? The Art of Racing in the Rain by Garth Stein.
What is the last movie you saw?
I haven’t seen any new movies lately. As a father of an eightyear-old daughter, my world has been Disney movies for years, and that’s ok.
What is inspiring you now?
Definitely my daughter. I try to be as involved as I can in her life. She’s very inspirational to my wife and me.
Who has been the greatest influence on you? My father. He started our company in the late
’80s and the decision making that he has made to get the business up and running and then growing over the years is amazing. There were a lot of things that I kind of took for granted as a kid, but the more I got involved in the business as I grew older, I can see that it’s not easy to run your own company. It’s a lot of hard work. So he’s been a big influence for me as well as our whole team.
Any key business tenets that you learned from him that stand out? Thinking ahead. His ability to apply what’s going on today and see out five to 10 years is impressive. That’s not easy to do.
tricky. It can muddy the goals you want to achieve,” he says. “Fortunately, my dad created a corporate culture of treating people the way he would want to be treated with respect, integrity and honesty, and we continue to take that to heart.”
Trade war aside, Chen is optimistic about Alegria’s future success. The company got through the pandemic relatively unscathed and was projecting solid growth for this year thanks to expanded assortments spanning athleisure to dress comfort. “We’ve recently invested a lot of resources in product development and launched several new categories that we projected to grow this year,” he reports. “The collections were well received by our retailers.”
The overriding goal remains the same: Alegria reaching its full potential. “We want retailers and consumers to see Alegria as a complete women’s comfort brand where our proprietary footbeds offer the right support and great comfort across a range of styles,” he says. “I fully envision that growth happening over the next few years.”
So, what’s life like in the trenches of an epic trade war?
Extremely hard. If you just did the math when the
What keeps you awake at night? Lately, tari s.
What are you most hopeful for?
That the tari s go away.
If you could live in another time period, when would it be? I love the world today. I think we’ve got it all, and I enjoy that.
What’s on your to do list for today? Everything of late has been tari s-related. We have a call with our sales team to finalize our plans and what we’ll be informing our retailers on if things don’t change significantly in the foreseeable future.
rate was 145 percent, the tariffs cost almost twice as much as our products. And the rate really was close to 185 percent when you added all the tariffs together. That was shocking and definitely challenging. And while the rate was greatly reduced, it’s still high. We were going to announce a price increase to our retailers, but we’re holding off for now. There’s just so much uncertainty.
What are you doing in the meantime?
Like most companies, we knew higher tariffs to some degree were coming and we had plans to absorb the increases and find sourcing partners outside of China. But then pretty much every country was hit with higher tariffs, which is making that search more difficult. And, of course, we’re not the only ones looking. Nonetheless, we have continued with our production. While we held some shipments when the tariff was at 145 percent, we remain optimistic that this trade war will eventually all be hashed out and we’ll get that all delivered.
How much of your Fall/Winter ’25 line is already in the U.S?
A good majority is here, but there’s still a big portion being produced and waiting to get here.
Can you even think about Spring/Summer ’26 amid all this turmoil?
Actually, we just finished our Spring/Summer ’26 sales meetings. Development is underway. We have pivoted some development to outside of China. We’re making a lot of progress on that front. We don’t want this trade war to be a setback for our company where we can’t move forward. We’re not going to stop development and production completely just because of this hurdle. We make a wide variety of categories, and some countries are stronger at certain types of development. So we’re looking at a lot of countries to see which make the best sense. I think we’ll find opportunities as we look up and down our line.
Diversification has many advantages, but what are some challenges in sourcing from various countries?
Logistics, for starters. There’s no one factory outside of China that we have relationships with that can make the majority of our shoes. So we have to find the right partners to develop certain kinds of shoes. Also, we’re a comfort brand and matters like fit and quality are very important to us. We have our work cut out for us to make sure all these potential sourcing partners and suppliers have the same standards and expectations. It makes it that much more challenging for our development and design team to make sure that, regardless of where the shoes are made, we have the same consistency of product throughout our line.
Do you envision making shoes in the U.S. any time soon?
If the leaders in our industry have the initiative to put in the necessary investment, I’d love to be a part of that. I think it would make shoemaking that much easier. Partnering locally could be more efficient, starting from a travel perspective. But a company our size can’t lead that drive.
Most industry leaders, though, have said manufacturing shoes here at the volume required to meet the demand just isn’t feasible. It surely wouldn’t happen overnight. This would take tremendous investments and time, and even then, there are no guarantees it could work or be sustainable. Now add in the recent fluctuation of tariffs worldwide and it gives all companies hesitancy about opening a factory in any country right now. Why would anyone spend billions of dollars building up that infrastructure when any advantage could be easily taken away because of a raise on tariffs? It’s just very difficult to manage a business amid these disruptive conditions.
How was business overall leading up to this? Post-Covid, we broadened our categories as our
Q&A
customers want and expect us to be more than just a clog brand, or a nursing brand. While there’s nothing wrong with being either of those—that’s our foundation—we want to be a complete women’s comfort brand. That’s what our rebrand has been all about—adding new categories. It better aligns Alegria with a changing retail environment.
How was business this past year?
We were flat to a little bit of growth. Like every year, weather can play a big role but for the most part we were happy with
where our business stood. More importantly, we’re excited by the growth we projected going into this fall. Our orders were up double digits. We introduced more dress comfort styles that were well received. We appreciate the trust and support our retailers gave us in the new shoes. If we can get this trade war settled to something more manageable, we’re really excited about the growth prospects for rest of the year and hopefully that carries into spring of ’26.
How would you describe Alegria today?
Alegria is a women’s comfort brand making multiple categories of styles—from athletic to athleisure to sandals to boots and clogs. We cover the entire spectrum of the comfort category. We’re well on our way to showing customers that we’re more than just what we started as in 2008. We’ve put in a lot of time and effort to reach this point. Product expansion is crucial for us, and we’ve worked hard to achieve that.
It’s not always easy to expand out from what retailers know and want a brand for. For sure, we’ve been pigeonholed at times. But that’s where our rebranding has come in and our ability to tell our story that Alegria means comfort in all the shoes we make. Building a brand is a non-stop job, and expanding into different sectors of the business requires being rediscovered all over again. That’s why we need to tell our brand story consistently through product and messaging. We also hope our retailers help us tell that story to consumers as well.
What’s Alegria’s biggest growth opportunity going forward—a specific category or consumer segment? It’s comfort across a range of categories from sneakers to dress comfort. That will enable us to expand into different markets and distribution. It’s why being consistent is so important. Above all, we have to focus on what makes Alegria different, and we believe that story leads with our unique footbed constructions that provide great support and comfort. You won’t find that level of support and comfort in most sneakers and athleisure styles. That’s how we differentiate.
You’ve been in this business a long time. Is the glass half empty, half full, or is there a hole in the bottom right now?
I’m pretty optimistic and positive by nature, so I’d like to think the glass is half full and that we’ll see bright days ahead. That said, it’s definitely dark of late. It’s hard to be optimistic in the face of these tariffs. This isn’t a case of what theoretically might happen. This is real dollars, and it just doesn’t add up. Even at 30 percent, this is just super difficult. I’m not sure if consumers understand yet just how big of a burden this is on companies. It’s not just shoes that will cost a lot more. Everything—apparel, cars, phones, etc.—will all cost a lot more. My wife is stocking up my daughter’s school supplies now realizing how much prices might go up and how scarce goods might be come August.
The impetus behind this trade war was to bring jobs back to the U.S. Well, your company currently employs about 30 American citizens and if this trade war goes unchecked, it could jeopardize those jobs.
It’s very sobering to hear leaders in our industry having the same challenges that we are. And even if the tariffs are taken away, we’ve already heard from our shipping forwarders that it’s going to be a mess. s 37
Alegria o ers a full range of comfort styles.
From Ranch to Runway, Find It
DALLAS APPAREL & ACCESSORIES MARKET
JUNE 10 - 13 | AUGUST 12 - 15, 2025
The Turmoil Diaries
Chaos is the new black . Leading executives share battle plans for surviving an epic trade war and explosive disruption upending the industry and the world .
Edited by Greg Dutter
Fight the Power
FDRA ’ s Andy Polk and Andy Gilbert on why the powers that be need to know how bad this trade war is for the industry and consumers .
WHEN TARIFFS ON Chinese-made goods stood at a paralyzing 145 percent, Andy Polk, senior vice president of Footwear Distributors & Retailers of America (FDRA), ranked the scale of industry disruption and negative fallout at 12 on a scale of one to 10. The impact was potentially catastrophic in terms of company closures. Currently slashed to 30 percent, he ranks it at nine. For perspective, he ranked Covid’s fallout at nine.
“We could figure out ways to cut costs and develop operational efficiencies if tariffs were at 10 percent. Twenty percent gets harder. Thirty percent is still a breaking point is for small business,” Polk says, noting that shipments can begin again, but it means companies are going to import less and retailers will have less capital to buy, so there still may be product shortages as operating costs also spike across the board. “It’s a perilous business environment where companies must not take shortcuts but also must find ways to reduce costs.” He adds, “There isn’t a way through this for a lot of companies. Some will fold.”
Andy Gilbert, longtime industry executive and head of FDRA’s recently launched Footwear Innovation Foundation, agrees that many small- and medium-sized companies will struggle to survive. He notes that many factories operate month-to-month, and when cash flow seizes, they can’t pay suppliers. “Then they have to furlough employees. Sample rooms get impacted and innovation gets curtailed,” he says. “Companies will be cutting expenses across the board—travel, product, marketing—all aspects that frankly just aren’t good for business.”
In addition to trimming costs and searching for new sourcing partners, Polk and Gilbert urge everyone to let their congressmen know that this trade war is leading to less quality, fewer shoes, higher prices, and no meaningful creation of footwear manufacturing jobs in the U.S.
“Communicating their pain to Congress to put pressure on the president is a must,” Polk says. “Communicating what’s happening to their business to customers is also a must, explaining their commitment to value and doing all they can to avoid price increases but that they’re up against what’s essentially a record high government tax.”
As for anyone who thinks shoe manufacturing will return to the U.S. at a meaningful level, Gilbert says the math doesn’t add up. Currently, the U.S. makes about 25 million of the 2.5 billion pairs it consumes annually. “We’re never going to come back to that extent,” he says. “Also, there’s no one or a combination of countries, in a relatively short period of time, where we could move all that production.” And while the industry has made great progress in diversifying its sourcing regions—90 percent from China down to 58 percent over the past 15 years—the amount illustrates everything China provides from an infrastructure standpoint. “It’s not a snap your finger type of solution. It’s going to take time,” Gilbert says.
It’s why FDRA has been crunching numbers to look for ways around the various tariffs—like making uppers in China and assembling shoes in Vietnam. “But when you introduce those complexities into the supply chain, you’re not saving money,” Polk says, adding that tariffs potentially raised elsewhere can throw a wrench into those best-laid plans.
Polk expects consumers will start to notice come August when inventories might be scarce and prices are likely higher. “A lot of goods were frontloaded, and inventories are decent now, but now there’s a scramble among all industries to get goods shipped during this pause,” he says. “Our industry is fighting Apple, Home Depot, etc. to get goods onto ships.” It’s why Polk bought back-to-school shoes for his three kids last month.
It’s also why Gilbert has a feeling of dread for many small- to medium-sized businesses. “To see those families get emotional about potentially losing third- and fourth-generation businesses is just gut-wrenching,” he says. “The president can be cavalier about the impact, but this is hurting people who helped elect him.” It’s also why Gilbert is concerned about the upheaval in broader geopolitical issues. “Long-term, we’re going to need friends and allies.”
In the meantime, the industry must find ways to survive. Attending trade shows is key, Polk and Gilbert say. “A crisis can be the best time to be in front of customers because when you’re together you can learn an awful lot,” Gilbert says. Polk advises to be proactive. “Focus on what you can do and can control to build a better sphere around your business,” he says, admitting, though, that’s especially hard to do right now. “We should be focused on making innovative, cool shoes that consumers will love. Instead, the government, in essence, is determining what’s being made based on tariffs, and that’s a sad state to be in.”
Andy Gilbert
Andy Polk
Twisted X Global Brands CEO Prasad Reddy on staying a step ahead of the chaos .
WITH CHINA’S TARIFF rate currently lowered to 30 percent, Prasad Reddy says it provides relief—but not enough. That’s because footwear already has “very high” duty rates and with that tariff added, it becomes a major issue that importers must navigate. Think price increases, major supply chain disruption, and a scramble for new sourcing regions. A perfect storm.
Reddy, who possesses 50-plus years of footwear sourcing experience, has done the math, and it simply costs too much to source goods in China under these conditions long-term. Generally, he notes, most casual shoes duties are around 10 percent. Factor in that, in 2019, there was an additional 7.5 percent duty placed on product from China, so when added all together that’s 17.5 percent for casual shoes on top of the 30 percent tariff. “It really adds up,” he says. “Almost every company is in turmoil trying to decide what to do because there’s so much uncertainty. And we don’t know what’s going to happen after the 90-day pause periods, so a lot of planning is required to address the various potential outcomes.”
Reddy says this situation is constantly evolving, so plans continue to change. For now, TXGB is actively implementing solutions to diversify and source products and materials from lower tariff countries. “We’re limiting our exposure to Southeast Asia and expanding into other Asian countries as well as Mexico,” he says. “We’ve been able to utilize relationships from my many years in the industry to develop new partnerships. In the long run, this will make us a better company.”
Here, Reddy discusses TXGB’s trade war strategy, the fallout that has occurred already and what might happen if it rages on, and the industry’s silver lining that he hopes shines through again.
How much damage has already been caused? A lot because when tariff were 145 percent practically no product was shipped from China for about six to eight weeks. And 30 percent is still high plus there are concerns about the availability of shipping containers. That will impact the back-to-school and fall season. Fortunately, like during the pandemic, we had the financial ability to take extra inventory amidst the threat of tariffs. We increased our inventory to be at a six-to-eight-month supply instead of our normal two to four months level. That puts us in a good position. Companies that didn’t have the financial strength to do that might not be able to survive without shipments.
So product shortages and higher prices possibly come fall? Yes, because financially strong retailers are taking all the inventory they can get before expected price increases. Whatever the tariff rates are, wholesalers will likely pass some of that cost increase on, which could then result in a drop in consumer demand if retailers pass some of that cost increase on. We’ve worked hard to
keep prices steady for our retailers and hardworking customers, but at the current rate of tariffs we’ll raise our wholesale prices by an average of less than nine percent beginning this month. We’re able to absorb most, but not all of it. As always, we remain focused on fairness, value, and doing right by the people who support us. For the industry, I expect the second half of the year will likely be down for many reasons. Price increases will have a big impact, and inflation will put a strain on consumers’ finances, which is going to impact us all.
On a scale of one to 10, how would you rank the current level of industry turmoil? Eight. However, there may be differing levels of turmoil depending on where companies are sourcing. If you’re heavily sourcing from Mexico, your level may be a three to five. If you’re sourcing from Southeast Asia, which is where most do, it’s six to 10 depending on the country.
How does this overall turmoil compare to the pandemic? This current state of chaos has a lot more uncertainty, and when you’re running a company, you don’t like uncertainty. The difference with the pandemic was that we knew things would eventually get back to normal, so there was less panic. We were also more in control of ourselves, whereas in this current state of chaos there’s a lot more out of our control. For example, we still had product coming during the pandemic. With these tariffs, the product wasn’t flowing for weeks from China, and it’s been delayed elsewhere. Quite a few factories will be in financial trouble if this situation continues. I worry that there could be many closures, which may also affect product availability. In addition, many smaller- and medium-size companies could go out of business because they won’t have the experience, financial capabilities, and infrastructure to handle this chaos. And most companies that do survive may not be profitable this year with everything going on.
What does your personal crystal ball tell you happens when the pauses expire? I don’t believe the administration will be able to make deals with all Southeast Asian countries by then. Maybe two or three of them. So a choice must be made: extend the pause for another three to six months or go with the rates already established. It’s hard to predict which way it’ll go.
Any advice on how to keep calm and soldier on amid such chaos? Planning is essential. We just try to plan for anything and everything, so we have plans A, B, and C at all times. We must also be proactive and not hide our heads in the sand. Keep planning and building to do whatever it takes to survive. Panicking won’t get us anywhere. It’s important to stay calm, as it’s just as important to be prepared to move fast based on the current circumstances.
Any silver lining? Our industry has gone through lots of change and chaos in my 50-plus years of experience, but we’ve always survived because we learned from it and adapted. I think this too shall pass. Challenging times also offer opportunities to build smarter, stronger, and more resilient partnerships. Thus, we remain optimistic about the road ahead and are committed to getting through it together. And unlike publicly traded companies that must watch their financials extra closely, TXGB has a little more flexibility in making hard decisions. We don’t mind being a contrarian if it feels like the right thing to do. We didn’t stop production during this time, just as we didn’t during Covid.
SPEAKING UP FOR THE LITTLE GUYS
Dallas
Market Center
CEO Cindy Morris on why the host of WESA and owner of other fashion trade events launched an anti - tariff initiative in support of independent retailers .
THE WAY DALLAS Market Center sees it, this trade war is hurting the little guys most. That’s why it introduced “Stand With Main Street: Turn Off the Tariffs” initiative early last month. Its core message of advocating for a 90-day pause on all tariffs between the U.S. and China was at least partially heard, but there’s still work to be done.
“Even if tariffs are lowered further, the supply chain consequences are highly disrupted,” says CEO Cindy Morris. “We need an immediate pause on all tariffs, then trade representatives can create a reasonable policy over the coming months.” Politics, she adds, has nothing to do with its position. “Tariffs disrupting the flow of goods to retailers during their most critical (holiday) selling season is destructive. Our position is not anti-tariffs in all situations, just at this moment given the vulnerability of retailers and the U.S. economy.”
Here, the exec sounds off on the trade war’s near- and potential long-term impact on independent retailers.
On a scale of one to 10, how would you rank the current level of retail industry turmoil? Every day leads us closer to a crisis, especially for Main Street retailers depending upon new collections or seasonal goods for the fourth quarter. It’s a fluid situation, but it’s a seven.
How does the current state of chaos compare to the pandemic? Some of our exhibitors are calling it Covid 2.0, but others are calling it worse. Product for the critical holiday season must be on the water within weeks. The danger is that production, shipping, and the U.S. ports get so backed up that product arrives later or never.
How’s the response been? Tremendous. Thousands have signed the petition. The feedback has been overwhelmingly positive. We’re trying to ensure that customers understand that our communication is not political, it’s practical. We want the free flow of goods for the holiday sales season.
What else is Dallas Market Center doing to navigate this turmoil? During our Total Home & Gift Market this month, we’re holding a tariffs and trade breakfast event featuring Jonathan Gold, vice president of Supply Chain and Customs with the National Retail Federation. He’ll be joined by manufacturers to discuss what’s happening and how to plan. We’re also holding virtual roundtable and inperson seminars at upcoming shows featuring leading independent retailers discussing how they’re adapting. In addition, our Retail Development team is available to answer any questions, and we created a newsletter covering the latest tariffs and trade news. Our mission is simple: bring buyers and sellers together and help support the free flow of goods to retailers. When something gets in that way of that, we have no choice but to speak out.
What happens if this trade war continues or intensifies? Short-term, retailers must receive product, or their fourth quarters will suffer. It could cause retailers and vulnerable manufacturers to close. Mid-term consequences include the disruption of product collections over the next year. Manufacturers may hold back new collections, and retailers may face shortages and extremely limited product options. Long-term consequences are perhaps the most concerning. During Covid, we saw many entrepreneurs go into business. Retail formation statistics soared and have stayed strong since. If tariffs aren’t resolved quickly and in a manner that supports Main Street retailers, I fear that entrepreneurs will pull back and we’ll see a retreat in new store launches. That may take years of recovery.
How is Dallas Market Center’s anti-tariff initiative designed to help? Main Street retailers don’t have a strong, united voice, especially compared with large industries with a few massive players like car and cellphone makers. It’s up to each of us to help unify and amplify their voices to save fourth quarter sales. Our petition is one way to help. We have three goals. First is awareness. Retailers need to understand the severity of the situation. Second is planning. Retailers need to take stock (literally) and evaluate how they need to adjust. Third is communication. Retailers need to be closely communicating with the brands they stock and seeking new brands to fill in inventory.
proactive pivots
Josh Higgins , president of ING Source , makers of OS1st compression sleeves and hosiery , on moving fast while staying focused .
ING SOURCE RECENTLY sent a letter stating that it would not raise prices on it OS1st brand, which is sold exclusively to independent retailers. President Josh Higgins wanted to assure partners that at a time when they needed help the most, the North Carolina-based company would absorb any cost increases. Meanwhile, ING Source continues to move fast on several fronts amid this trade war.
“We’re working very closely with our manufacturing partners to manage pricing, optimize our supply chain, and ensure stable inventory levels,” Higgins says. “Additionally, we’ve proactively increased inventory and secured additional raw materials to give us a cushion during this uncertainty. We’ve also shifted our demand generation strategy with simple pivots like updating our website’s front page to emphasize our in-store availability via Locally, which drives sell-through at retail.”
Here, Higgins offers his take on the trade war and other recent disruptions, and how ING Source is responding.
On a scale of one to 10, how would you rank the current level of overall industry turmoil? I’d place it at a four as of 3:43 p.m. May 12, 2025. (The date China tariffs were reduced to 30 percent for 90 days.) There’s a sense of underlying tension, but it hasn’t boiled over just yet. Every company is unique, but from what I’ve heard, the situation remains manageable. However, we’re still facing a looming risk of tariff negotiations stalling or taking a turn for the worse. Any change could make that number jump significantly.
How does the current state of chaos compare to the fallout from the pandemic? This doesn’t compare. Back then, stores were closed, production was halted, and everything was uncertain. While there’s disruption and uncertainty now, stores are still open, product is still moving, and consumers are still buying. It’s more of a logistical and pricing challenge than a total shutdown. In 2020, we faced existential questions. Now, it’s more about adapting and recalibrating. Since then, we’ve also become more resilient, smarter with supply chain strategies, and more agile in operations. Many brands, like ours, have diversified production and built-up inventory buffers. We’re better prepared, even if the challenges are different.
Where are your products currently made? We’re 70 percent Taiwan, 20 percent U.S., and 10 percent China. You’ll see more products made in the U.S. very quickly. We have also moved several of our products to Vietnam from China.
What does your crystal ball tell you happens when these tariff pauses expire? We don’t have a crystal ball, which is why we chose to make our own certainty with a price freeze. Using the conditions and knowledge we have today, my gut tells me we will remain in a holding pattern. A full resolution feels unlikely by that date, and I expect tariffs to remain in place at current levels. So the immediate plan is to maintain our pricing and current sales structure. Thanks to our current inventory position and proactive planning, we have the flexibility to take a measured approach. That gives us time to work with our partners on a long-term strategy without disrupting day-to-day operations.
Even so, a lot of disruption has already occurred, right? Even if tariffs are lifted, the disruptions in shipping and supply chains won’t be resolved overnight. Many suppliers have adjusted their production flows, rerouted logistics, or delayed orders in response to the uncertainty. Returning to “normal” will take time because reactivating and realigning global supply networks is a multi-step process. Realistically, it could take three to six months to fully normalize operations. It depends on how quickly policy decisions are made, how suppliers respond, and how shipping lanes stabilize. Once the rhythm of global trade is disrupted, it takes time to rebuild predictability and efficiency.
How are disruptions like DOGE, upending long-term alliances, and reversing sustainability efforts impacting ING Source? These disruptions create a more volatile and fragmented global landscape, which impacts everything from raw material sourcing to regulatory compliance. Sustainability, once a clear focus, now faces challenges as cost and supply concerns take precedence for some companies. Prior to these shifts, for our small business on-ramping sustainability initiatives was an important but albeit slow scaling process. Now, we remain committed to sustainable practices but recognize the need to balance them with economic and operational realities. It means we might look for progress in different areas that are more under our control. Overall, we’re leaning into our strengths: agility, partnership, and innovation. That means deepening relationships with reliable suppliers, diversifying our sourcing footprint, and investing in smarter inventory and forecasting systems. We also continue to prioritize transparency with our retail partners and customers to build trust in uncertain times.
Any advice on how to keep calm amid all the turmoil? I stay grounded by focusing on what we can control—team communication, clear planning, and flexible decision-making. Disruption is part of modern business, but perspective matters. We’ve weathered major storms before. My advice: Keep your team close, stay focused on your values, and don’t make decisions out of fear. Steady leadership makes the biggest difference when things feel uncertain.
BRUCE KAPLAN HAS been around the industry block a few times over the course of 46 years. He’s weathered plenty of challenges and calamities, having started out in retail and then crossing into wholesale with stops at HH Brown, Ecco, Ariat, Phoenix Footwear Group, Ara, and now Impo. Over the years, he’s become a Mr. Fix It for fellow shoe executives. So when he says this trade war, left unresolved, has potential catastrophic consequences, take heed.
“The financial impact will be bad. People will lose jobs, and some companies will shutter. It’s that dire,” Kaplan says, noting that the speed of failure is directly related to where products are made. The more reliant on China, the more at risk companies are. Even companies not importing from China will see fallout. “It will simply take longer. There’s literally nobody that’ll be immune,” he says.
Impo Intl . CRO Bruce Kaplan pitches actionable advice to hit back at a devastating trade war .
That said, the reduction to 30 percent on Chinesemade goods and 90-day pause is a bit of a breather. “Now the industry is navigating degrees of financial strain,” Kaplan says. “At the very least, we should start seeing cargo movement. That by itself will help.” But those benefits are dampened by the damage already done and the lingering uncertainty of how this trade war evolves. “Those struggling to release goods continue to face challenges, and this 90-day retreat impacts consumer confidence” he says. “We’re likely in the second inning of a long game, potentially one that goes into extra innings.”
Companies most likely to survive this crisis essentially fall into three categories, according to Kaplan. 1. Some simply cannot withstand the financial burden and will either shut down or restructure aggressively through deep costcutting and then augment potential losses through significant price increases. 2. Those with moderate diversification and available cash can absorb the new tariff rates but may need to modify their structure or raise prices (already happening) to stay afloat. 3. Fully global and diversified companies with healthy margins will experience some pain but should remain operationally stable if negotiations resolve favorably.
Regardless of where one might fall, Kaplan recommends the first step is for company leaders to push harder to present their case to this administration and general public. “My biggest frustration is the widespread lack of understanding about what’s coming,” he says, noting that consumers don’t yet fully grasp who ultimately bears the cost of tariffs. “Otherwise, there’d already be more outrage. This issue extends far beyond $8 eggs. We should start using the term ‘profit’ instead of ‘margin,’ as that feels too much like a business term.”
Of course, there is no single solution out of this mess. Kaplan recommends creating a list of five to 10 measurable ideas to develop and implement. Above all, it’s about forging a new path. “Start with a comprehensive process review, and ensure you have a strong team to support you in seeing it through,” he says. “Focus on generating ideas that enable you to put your best foot forward, then create an action plan that is both clear and ambitious.” It requires bravery, resilience, and decisive action, he adds. “I’d triangulate between the factory and key customers to determine how much each can contribute to ensure the most successful season possible. At its core, this is about fostering true partnerships.” Kaplan adds, “To quote Tom Peters: ‘Have a bias toward action.’”
More advice: reinvent, refine, and execute. “Start by taking an honest look in the mirror and acknowledge that you can’t solve these issues alone,” Kaplan says. “Collaboration with your team is crucial. Devote a day a week to discuss potential outcomes. If you work well together, your chances of survival increase significantly.” On that note, he advises to share all ideas openly with retail partners. Without clear communication, they might create their own narrative. “Ultimately, every retailer has a unique business model, which means tailored, individualized plans are needed for each customer,” Kaplan says. “Beginning with this approach will pave the way for solutions to emerge naturally.”
Be authentic and fair, as well. Kaplan advises to honestly communicate that you’ve done everything possible to help customers grow their businesses. It requires being completely transparent about the current situation and what the future may look like, warts and all. “Share comparable items along with the updated costs to give retailers a clear understanding of the impact—both on retail pricing and on their top- and bottom-line sales,” he says. “Additionally, remember that we’re all in this together. Many of your customers are facing similar challenges, so showing empathy toward your buyers and decisionmakers is crucial.”
Last but not least, Kaplan advises to keep the faith. A positive attitude and proactive approach can do wonders. This too shall pass, he believes. “The hope is that as an industry, I believe we have, as many times before, overcome significant challenges by working together to find solutions,” he says.
Of course, such faith is being tested of late. “The toughest thing for me is trying to explain to friends outside of the industry who truly see this trade war as a good thing,” Kaplan says. “I’m more than willing to listen to other points of view, but it’s much more difficult when you see the direct impact this is having on so many friends and colleagues.”
Manufactured MADNESS
Marina Rosin Levine , CEO Highline United , makers of Ash and Sanctuary , on why this crisis is worse than Covid .
THE PANDEMIC, WHILE extremely disruptive, isn’t as chaotic as this trade war, says Highline United CEO Marina Rosin Levine. Not only are the tariffs random and fluctuating wildly, but there are also no government bailouts to help companies get through the crisis. Worst of all, she says it’s self-inflicted and didn’t have to happen.
“This tariff pandemic is manufactured by this administration, not a lab,” Levine says. “America was the greatest center of free trade, thus our powerful stock market. If moving goods is easier in and out of Italy, then why pay the high cost of living here! Who knew that Italy, or frankly any other country in the world, would be more pro-business than the U.S.!”
Levine ranks the current level of industry turmoil at eight, down two points when tariffs were at 145 percent. Still, the volatility and zero uniformity in tariff policies makes planning business next to impossible. “Under the Trump tariff wars, we don’t know what tomorrow brings,” she says. “The president is using countries’ businesses as bargaining chips to get results that tend to contradict one on another.” For example, she cites footwear having a 90- to 120-day lead time for production, plus it being a narrow margin business. “How can we possibly operate a business when our margins fluctuate every 90 days and half the time into the direction of negative margin, especially on low-cost, high-volume product that immediately impacts lower income consumers?”
Highline United isn’t banking on normalcy to return any time soon. It’s adapting on the fly. That includes holding some China-produced product at its factory, exploring production in Brazil and Spain, layoffs,
and raising some prices. In addition, Levine pulled Fall/Holiday ’24 sale and clearance items off Ash’s DTC site to convert into fall inventory. “We’re also starting to move Ash production out of China,” she says, noting that 50 percent of Highline United production is in China. The other 50 percent is mostly Vietnam with some in Cambodia. Levine is “excited” about potential partnerships in Brazil and Spain. If tariffs rise again, Highline United will lean further into those countries. All plans are subject to change. Levine says it’s like living in no man’s land. Fortunately, Highline United is factory-owned. Any orders that may have been put on pause, particularly in its speed-to-market facility, can be ramp up quickly. “Footwear people are agile, and if Trump cancels tariffs, we’ll find our way back to normal pretty fast,” she expects. “If this is settled soon, Spring ’26 should almost be back to normal.”
In the meantime, the turmoil is taking a mental toll on lots of industry people, including Levine. She’s been sick multiple times, and it correlates to recent stress. “This isn’t sustainable. I feel the administration has hijacked the Silicon Valley word ‘disruptor,’ which meant innovation and investment, to create chaos and unrest,” she says, noting that a small business founder recently half joked that their company is so devastated that she’s more valuable to their family as life insurance than an income producer. It’s Levine’s duty to keep calm while speaking out. “I’ve always been politically active, so knowing people have power helps me keep going,” she says. “Most importantly, our close-knit team at Highline United and our factory partners enables us to really lean in on each other to get through this. I’m very thankful for their support and partnership.”
fast times
Jason Brooks , CEO of Rocky Brands , on keeping pace amid an unpredictable and rapidly changing landscape .
ROCKY BRANDS IS 93 years young and has survived plenty of turmoil over those decades. The key, says CEO Jason Brooks, is to stay focused on what you can control and execute on that. As for what you can’t control, “just get over it because you can’t do crap about it, so why waste your time on that.”
Of course, it’s not that simple when it comes to Rocky Brands’ navigation of this trade war. It involves a talented team that has built strong relationships with sourcing and materials partners worldwide that date back years. Everyone is working together to spread the fallout to manageable levels. “We’re all in the same boat trying to help each other,” Brooks says. “Factories, raw material partners, ourselves are all eating a little bit of the costs.” But with tariffs at least 10 percent higher worldwide, he says its consumers are also absorbing costs—to the tune of about a six percent higher prices starting in June.
Here, Brooks candidly discusses on how the trade war and other recent turmoil has upended the industry. Rocky Brands is doing its best to pivot. For example, the Ohio-based company expects to shift more than half of its sourcing out of China by year’s end. Fast times, indeed.
How are you sleeping these days? Not well. I spend a lot of time thinking it all over. But it feels like it’s been that way since the pandemic and the uncertainties that followed. Fortunately, we have a great team, and we’ve put great plans in place. Of course, we’ve had to change them a few times of late, but we continue to come in every day and react to any changes and try to manage what we can control. Things that are out of our control, we need to understand and deal with them, but they’re out of our control. I also go back to my dad who always advised to treat our partners around the world as best we can so if a time comes for any help, they’re likely to do so.
On a disruption scale of one to 10, where does this trade war rank? Lowering it to 30 percent is positive, but it’s still causing a lot of turmoil. And while the media was reporting that it was 145 percent, we’ve been paying tariffs already issued during Trump’s first term. Actually, our tariffs peaked at 197 percent for a while. So I’d rank it around an eight.
And the fallout from the pandemic ranked? Oh, my God, higher. There was so much unknown versus a trade war. There have been trade wars forever. Granted, this one is a little crazier, but the pandemic seemed really insane to me.
But there is no bailout this time. The stimulant payments then were huge. We were also very fortunate to be considered an essential business as a maker of work boots. So we didn’t have to shut down the way some other companies did. A wildcard now is potential tax cuts and rebates that could give average Americans a cash infusion of sorts. If that happens in the next few months, then what? Right now, though, we don’t know if there’s any help coming.
So what is Rocky Brands doing to react? Actually, the administration doing what it did, in the time frame it did, absolutely made us move quicker. If they’d have said we had another six to eight months to manage our business
sourced out of China…I probably would’ve taken all that time. This made us move quicker, because we had to. So we’re going to be at a very different place at the end of this year where probably 20 percent of our product will be sourced out of China, and of that amount probably half will be shipped to the UK, Australia, etc. and not impacted by tariffs. Last year, we were 45 to 50 percent out of China.
Where are you moving it to? Definitely some more in our factories in the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico. We’ve had factory bases there for almost 40 years. All that time it was tariff-free, but now it’s 10 percent. We can deal with that, but it’s still 10 percent. We’ve also moved sourcing into Vietnam, Cambodia, Myanmar, India, and a little out of Mexico. And anywhere else we can find. Fortunately, our Chinese factory partners have already started the process of building operations elsewhere. We’ve been doing business with some of them for 25 years. We trust you, you trust us, so let’s keep working together. Now is it that simple? No. It’s complicated, but much better than starting from scratch.
What about moving production to the U.S.? If we wanted to start a shoe factory in the U.S. today, it’d be a minimum of 12 months—and that would be if everything went perfect. There are factories here already, and those will produce more in the U.S. going forward. But I don’t foresee this massive influx of footwear factories happening here. Finding workers, for starters, would be very difficult. We already struggle to staff the BBQ restaurant inside our outlet store as well as our warehouse. So even at $25 an hour to work in a shoe factory…I don’t think enough people will do that.
What does your crystal ball tell you happens next? Who knows, but I’ve got to believe that those negations will go ok. That said, maybe other countries don’t go back to 45 percent but what if it goes up to 25 percent?
How is a lot of other recent turmoil impacting Rocky Brands? Our military contract business slowed down at the end of last year and it’s carried over into this year. Obviously, there have been some defense spending cuts, and procurement cards seem to be on pause as well. So we’re seeing some slowdown in sales as a result. It’s a small, important percentage of our business, but it’s not freaking me out. What I can’t figure out is that the economy doesn’t seem to be slowing down. From what I see, restaurants, airports, highways, hotels, etc. are busy. People are out spending money. That chainsaw cut everywhere, and reports state consumer confidence is waning, but I don’t see it yet. The consumer doesn’t seem to be that worried.
Still, can a lot of smaller wholesalers survive 30 percent tariffs for long? No. There’s a segment of brands that have launched over the last few years basically on social media and use their garages as warehouses. Up until now, you could run search on Google and find a manufacturer in China to make just about anything. But those companies likely don’t have the resources to find sourcing in Vietnam, for example. A lot of those brands will be gone if this trade war isn’t settled.
Shawn Osborne , president of Two Ten Footwear Foundation , on how the industry charity is assisting in another time of heightened need .
THE FALLOUT OF this trade war, if left unresolved at current tariff levels, could result in thousands of industry members losing their jobs across retail and wholesale. The phones at Two Ten seeking immediate financial relief are expected to be ringing loudly and often. The Bostonbased organization will do its best to help fellow shoepeople in need—just like it has for 86 years and counting.
First off, Two Ten President Shawn Osborne wants the industry to know: “You are not alone. Two Ten will be here to bring hope and opportunity, no matter what happens.”
As it pertains to this crisis, Osborne says Two Ten is focused on personal hardship relief and counseling services. So the second thing he wants the industry to know is that, for those who can, please give. Financial donations are the most immediate and effective form of assistance. It’s particularly important amid times when companies are making cuts. “There’s a feeling that philanthropy is discretionary in times like these; that somehow it’s not essential,” Osborne says. “But nonprofits that provide emergency response are never more critical than in these moments. The help Two Ten offers footwear families is essential.”
Fortunately, Two Ten has learned a lot since responding to the fallout from the pandemic—its greatest crisis to date. Particularly, it learned how to respond to urgent need amid a crisis. “We made a lot of process improvements because of the pandemic,” Osborne says. “We retooled our systems and streamlined procedures so our grant managers can respond more quickly.”
As far as how this crisis ranks, Osborne puts it at an eight on a scale of one to 10. But, he says, this and the pandemic are hard to compare. There were a lot of unknowns in the early days of Covid, and Two Ten was helping people who were sick or dying. That put it in a different category. “During the pandemic, we faced impacts immediately and knew this would be something we’d never seen before—and we this would be the longest crisis we ever faced,” Osborne says. “This feels different because of the delayed impacts and uncertain end.” On the bright side, he believes Two Ten, in many ways, is better prepared for this crisis. “We weren’t prepared for Covid, but Covid prepared us for this.”
Of course, a trade war isn’t the only disruption impacting the industry.
The fallout of DOGE, for example, has a direct impact. Fewer jobs lead to fewer shoe purchases. At least, Two Ten doesn’t rely on government funding so it’s immune to that infamous cost-cutting chainsaw. In a word: Whew!
“Many charities that provide social services do receive government funding, and now they’re increasingly unable to meet the needs of the communities they serve,” Osborne says, noting food banks as an example. “Some of the organizations hit hardest by loss of government grants provide resources people rely on during economic downturns. That fraying safety net means Two Ten may be the only place some footwear families can turn. That’s concerning.”
Nevertheless, Two Ten will do its best to respond to all forms of turmoil impacting shoepeople. And while several companies saw record earnings in the last quarter, the industry is navigating plenty of uncertainty, including inflation fears and a concerning decline in consumer confidence. “We’re always working with our board to assess what they mean to footwear employees, and what impact they could have on Two Ten,” Osborne says. “Continuing to enhance and expand Two Ten’s relief, education, and community programs will help us continue to be relevant in a changing industry landscape.”
Above all, Osborne credits Two Ten’s board of directors for being the vital port in all storms. “Our board believes deeply in Two Ten’s mission—that we can’t hold back in moments like these and that we need to be there for our community,” he says. “They support the idea that the foundation needs to ‘meet the moment’ during a crisis, as well as how to come out of it stronger and remain focused on the long game.”
DESTINY FULFILLED
Sam Cohen, owner of Avenue J Shoes, on embracing his fate as America’s sit-and-fit king for men.
DEAR 12-YEAR-OLD SAM…You’ve got big dreams now, kid. You envision becoming a titan of business that will also enable you to help people in need. Well, life doesn’t exactly pan out that way, but you do happily fulfill your destiny and carry on your family’s rich retailing tradition in your beloved hometown of Brooklyn, NY. Specifically, on one street: Avenue J, where you own the aptly named Avenue J Shoes.
Life is good from where you now sit, which is likely on a fitting stool, in 2025. For starters, you’re healthy (enough). You have a terrific family and are a respected businessman in the community and within the footwear industry. You even serve on the board of the National Shoe Retailers Association for several years. Most of all, you help countless customers walk pain-free, thanks to your fitting expertise. The skill is part art, part science and involves decades of repetition. Do anything long enough and you’ll get pretty good at it.
Still, you never intended for any of this to happen. That’s life. It’s filled with plot twists. Just take it chapter by chapter.
Speaking of which, your story really gets going at age 13. That’s when you decide summer camp isn’t your cup of tea anymore. You start working in your family’s children’s clothing and shoe stores. By age 18, you have a good grip on retail. You head off to college, only to drop out a couple of years later to work full-time in the family business. Two years in, though, you decide the grind is too much. Working six days a week, long hours, holidays…fuhgeddaboudit
You start a mail order campaign selling sterling silver initials on a necklaces and key chains advertised in the back of magazines. It doesn’t take off, so you switch to handbags. You gather samples from Garment District manufacturers and take orders from area retailers. You build a wonderful business that spans 30 to 40 regular accounts. You’re 21 years old and making $1,500 a week! You work your own hours and hit the clubs at night. Life is good, let me tell you.
here you are, three store locations later and all on Avenue J! The only difference: your bother leaves early on and you gradually switch to men’s shoes. You’ve been in this latest location for about 28 years.
Ever the dreamer, you try your hand at a couple of side ventures. In the early aughts, it’s a carb-free bread business launched with a friend. You see $1 billion potential. However, after a promising start it fails to rise. Prior to that, you also open additional shoe stores. But your high customer service standards demand that you always be present. You brand yourself as “the most experienced men’s shoe fitter in America.” Besides being the buyer, accountant, marketing director, janitor etc., you’re most often found at the footstool. It may not be the wisest move financially, but it’s the only way you know how to operate.
Still, you dream bigger. You switch to real estate, landing a job with Garrick-Aug Associates that specializes in retail leases. You negotiate the deals for the first six Dunkin’ Donuts shops in New York City. Famous Footwear is another client, marking its entry into the Northeast. A few years later, you move to another firm where you’re shipped off to Miami to manage a hotel and residential properties. About a year later, it’s time to move on. You’re in your mid 20s, single, and have amassed quite a bit of capital. Next will be the venture, you think.
Back in Brooklyn and mulling your next move, you visit your younger brother, who recently opened J Footworks, a children’s shoe store, under the tutelage of Dad. The neighborhood is being revitalized by younger families. Business is good. But you hear customers are complaining about one of the salespeople. He’s gotta go. You offer to step in for two weeks while a replacement is found. The year is 1983. Fast forward to 2025 and
Indeed, customers appreciate Avenue J’s service. It’s rare these days, if not nearly extinct. The proof is in the loyalty. You’re now servicing fourth and fifth generations of families! You love what you do, even if it’s a grind at times. So here are a few tips that will smoothen the journey.
1. It’s free to be nice. The dividends are 10-fold.
2. Share knowledge. Customers come to Avenue J because they can be fitted properly, which they can’t do shopping online. (Heads up: the world starts “online” shopping through their computers in the late ’90s. Deal with it.) You’re in the service business, and customers appreciate that.
3. Relationships are key. Strong bonds with staff, customers, and wholesalers are no-brainers. But the most important relationship is with the credit community. Be honest. Pay when you can before a call. Pay what you can when they do. Always keep your word. This allows for tremendous latitude and enables you to survive.
4. Never compromise on product. Anybody can sell a pair of shoes for a price and make a customer happy that day. The key is whether they’re still happy a few months later. If not, they ain’t coming back.
5. Private label is a lifesaver post-Covid. (Another heads up: a pandemic hits in 2020. The world is turned upside down for a few years. Deal with that, too.) So trust your shoe instincts. You know how to deliver a product that’s far superior in quality at a similar price of many brands. Happy customers, better margins, and exclusive styles equals a win-win-win.
6. Live in the present. The past is gone. Learn from it. Don’t worry about the future, just plan for it.
You’re a survivor. A medical marvel, in fact. In 2011, you fall and hit your head. Three brain surgeries later and you’re still at the fitting stool. This is what you’re meant to do. You’ve got no complaints. (Although, your wife might.) The ends justify the means. Like, when a customer came in recently to thank you profusely. You fitted him about four months prior, which involved a few orthotic tricks of the trade. He couldn’t walk without pain for years. Now he’s pain-free and forever grateful. That’s worth its weight in gold.
Blundstone suede Chelsea boots; Georgia Boot waterproof hikers with dual-density EVA midsoles and Carbo-Tec rubber outsoles. Opposite page: lightweight suede/textile trail shoes with Women’s Precision Fit technology by Danner
Clockwise from top: Ecco low-cut hiker with suede/mesh upper, speed lacing, and lugged outsole; Xtratuf deck sneakers with quick-dry 3D knit uppers and TUFgrip non-marking rubber outsoles; Twisted X lightweight boat shoe features recycled plastic ecoTweed uppers and Blend85 recycled foam footbeds; trail sneakers with breathable velvet leather uppers and removable footbed by Mephisto Allrounder Opposite page: Hoka trail runners feature lightweight woven uppers for easy drainage and Vibram MegaGrip outsoles with pod cutouts for stability over uneven terrain.
Trail runner with breathable knit upper and extended TPU overlay for toe protection and grippy MaxTrac outsole by Altra Opposite page: Wolverine hikers with Ultraspring high rebound ETPU midsoles and DuraShocks flex rubber outsoles.
Clockwise from top: Merrell trail runner with breathable mesh/TPU upper, recycled mesh lining and laces, FloatPro midsole, and Vibram MegaGrip outsole; lightweight leather sneaker with Adaptaction technology that adapts fit while walking by CallagHan; Zamberlan waterproof trail shoes with recycled fabric uppers and Vibram Junko Lite recycled outsoles. Opposite page: Arc’teryx waterproof mid hikers feature dual-density midsoles, TPU midfoot shanks for torsional support, durable Cordura mesh uppers, and Vibram MegaGrip outsoles; Max Cushioning trail runners with Natural Rocker Technology for smooth heel-to-toe transition and UltraGo cushioned platform by Skechers. Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Mariah Walker/Art Department; fashion editor: Kiernan McCormick; models: Rebecca Hanobik/Fenton Model Mgmt., Tommy Gray/Soul Artist Mgmt.; hair and makeup: Fumiaki Nakagawa/Next Artists; photo and styling assistant: Nellyfer Espinoza.
Father-Daughter Dance
Amie Rafa Founder and Chief Creative Officer Amelia Noorani and her father, veteran designer Rafael Noorani, on how they define classic and bold style. By Greg Dutter
THE NAME AMIE RAFA, like the designs, is a fusion between the father daughter design team of Amelia Noorani and Rafael Noorani. Founded in 2023 in Long Island City, NY, the label is a unique recipe of craftsmanship, a strong family bond, and a passion for design the results in understated elegance and easy-to-wear styles.
“I tend to gravitate toward simplicity—clean, minimalist lines and timeless silhouettes—while my dad always wants to add a little twist, a spark of the unexpected,” Noorani says, noting he calls it his finishing touch. “My dad has a flair for pushing boundaries. He loves adding unexpected elements that bring a sense of excitement and avant-garde energy.” She adds, “Together, we strike a balance between classic and bold. It’s a dance of generations.”
From age 10, Noorani immersed herself in her father’s shoemaking world. She learned the ins and outs to design and what makes a shoe comfortable. Fashion and function must go together was rule number one. She also learned the value of consistency and a deep understanding of the customer experience. “He taught me that comfort isn’t optional—it’s the starting point,” she says. “A well-designed shoe should empower you from the ground up, and that principle continues to shape everything we create.”
The Amie Rafa collection (SRP: $119-$279) spans kitten heel mules, chunky loafers, slingbacks, boots spanning mod to moto to western, ballet flats, and Mary Janes. The latter is where the brand has made its initial mark. “Our Athena Mary Jane is the foundation of our collection, and it’s still my ride-ordie favorite,” Noorani says. “I’ve been a Mary Jane girlie long before they were trending, so it’s satisfying to see that silhouette taking over the classic ballet flat. They’re timeless with a twist—just like us.”
The Spring/Summer ’26 collection will feature an expanded selection of Mary Janes and a range of other styles. Think unique, hand-finished touches and “soft, articulately sourced” leathers crafted in its Brazilian factory. “We value signature details—like a softly squared toe, low sculptural heel, and closest to a glove-like fit,” Noorani says. “Every element is intentional, refined, and built to last.”
The working theme of the latest collection: “‘I didn’t try too hard, but I obviously tried,’” Noorani explains. “No one ever wants to pretend like it took them hours to get ready, so why not give women some relief when it comes to picking the shoes!” That Amie Rafa woman, she adds, is intentional, curious, and deeply connected to her sense of self. “She doesn’t chase trends. She sets her own pace, because that’s who I’ve always been,” Noorani says.
What are the advantages of working with your father? It’s an incredible gift. His wisdom and experience guide me every day, reminding me of the importance of staying true to our roots. He’s the voice of reason when I’m looking to take risks. He’s the steady hand that keeps us grounded. More than that, he’s always been my biggest supporter—teaching me that passion and
persistence are key to building something meaningful. Working together, we’ve created a brand that blends the best of his timeless vision with my creative energy, and the result is something truly special.
How’s business? It’s had its challenges and we’re not where we projected, but Rome wasn’t built in a day! But who is ever where they actually projected to be? If I ever come across someone who is, I’d get every piece of advice they have to give! For us, though, our journey has been less about sticking to a rigid plan and more about staying open, adaptable, and passionate about the path we’re carving.
What’s the hardest part of getting a new brand off the launch pad? Juggling everything. You’re not just designing shoes, you’re building a brand, running operations, handling customer service, figuring out logistics, marketing, content, the works. One minute you’re choosing leather swatches, the next you’re troubleshooting a website glitch or packing boxes. It’s chaotic, overwhelming, and kind of amazing all at once. The hardest part is keeping all the plates spinning without losing your mind—or your vision. But that’s also what makes it so rewarding when it starts to click.
How is the trade war impacting your business? Tariffs have definitely made an impact, no matter where you’re producing. After 40 years in the business, though, it’s not exactly easy for my dad to just pack up and switch factories when he’s built decades of trust and craftsmanship. We’re not ones to back down from a challenge. We’re exploring smart, strategic ways to adapt without compromising the quality or soul of what we do. It’s all about staying nimble, creative, and finding a way forward.
What is your top goal for the rest of this year? Visibility!
Where do you envision Amie Rafa in three years? Helping women save their dollars and still feel like they’re walking in luxury. Being fashionable can get expensive, fast. I want Amie Rafa to be the go-to for shoes that look designer and feel amazing, but don’t break the bank. Effortlessly chic, always comfortable, and priced so well you’ll do a double take—that’s the energy we’re bringing.
What is your first shoe-related memory? Walking into my dad’s warehouse as a little girl and seeing rows and rows of shoes. It
Amie Rafa’s breakthrough style is the Mary Jane.
was love at first sight. I didn’t realize it then, but those early moments surrounded by leather, sketches, and the smell of fresh shoes sealed my fate. Shoes are a way of life for me.
What’s the best design advice you’ve ever received? Never apologize for being unique to you or your brand. Don’t try to fit in, try to create something new.
Any designers you admire? Anine Bing and Frē da Salvador. Both are children of immigrants who’ve carved out incredibly fulfilling careers in the U.S. There’s something so inspiring about the way they’ve turned their experiences into something unique and unapologetically their own. As the firstborn to immigrant parents, I’m all about that hustle and resilience— turning passion into success, no matter where you come from.
What shoe must every woman have in her closet? A Mary Jane and a ballerina flat. They’re total essentials whether you go square, almond, or round toe. It’s about your personal style. Those two styles just work. They match every vibe except, maybe, black tie.
What do you love most about designing shoes? Creating something that’s uniquely Amie Rafa and watching it transform into something everyone can enjoy. From the first sketch to the final design, it’s about creating something that’s not just worn, but felt. It’s deeply personal as every shoe tells a piece of our story. Also, knowing that something born from our family’s vision is out there for others to experience…that’s magic.
Q&A
(continued from page 12)
There’s a huge bottle neck to get goods onto ships. It’s wild.
Is it the most wild that you’ve experienced over your career?
This is definitely the biggest challenge that we’ve faced. Making it worse is that it all just came so fast and way beyond expected. Some in our finance team are more pessimistic. If this trade war continues into the fall, it’s going to have a dramatic impact on the entire industry. In the meantime, we’ll do our best to absorb the costs where we can but at the end of the day, we have responsibilities and bills to pay. I’m not going to lie, it’s tough right now.
So what keeps you coming into work each day?
Making products that make a meaningful difference in people’s lives. I opened our recent Spring/Summer ’26 sales meeting by reading a note from one of our consumers who had gone through multiple surgeries to her knees and hips and was told by doctors that she might not be able to walk without any pain. She discovered our shoes in 2009 and has been able to walk without any pain since. Each year she has bought a new pair. Our shoes can make a difference in a person’s life. The fact that she actually took the time to Google my name, find our address, and send a hand-written card…that’s all the motivation I need to keep coming into work each day. That feedback is inspiring and makes it all worthwhile.
What do you love most about your job?
Working with my team. We all have the same values and goals, which has enabled us to accomplish what we have to date and can do a lot more of going forward. I’m just blessed to have a loyal team of terrific people. We’re all in this Alegria basket together, trucking along and trying to grow. I believe it’s harder and less sustainable running a company if you view everything as just a transaction. We place value in our people and with those we do business with. For example, our secretary has been with us for 24 years. We celebrated her 20th anniversary by giving her and her husband first class tickets and a vacation to Cabo San Lucas for a week. We treat our people right. And while having a family business has its challenges, ultimately we answer to ourselves and not investors who may want to just treat things transactionally. We treat our retailers the same way. Problems can arise, but it’s how you react to those problems and treat people. We take a lot of pride in that. It’s important that we to do the right thing. •
Alegria designs start with proprietary comfort footbeds.
Highs and lows: Amie Rafa offers designer quality goods at affordable luxury pricing.
Lebeda’s Boot Hideaway Fairfield,
T AGE 19, JAMES LEBEDA opened Lebeda’s Feed Barn in 1975. Back then, this area of the Garden State was home to many farms, and horse owners visited the shop to buy food for their steeds. James and his brother John saw an opportunity and soon added cowboy boots to the mix. It was a wise move, because as the farms gave way to suburban sprawl by the mid ’80s, the business transitioned to Lebeda’s Boot Hideaway, focusing solely on western boots and apparel. The co-owners are still going strong 55 years down the trail. What’s even more impressive of this longevity is the store lives up to its “Hideaway” name tucked off Rte. 46 on a quiet, dead end street. “It’s really tricky to get to us,” John says. “Thank God for GPS, because years ago, we’d be on the phone for hours a day giving people directions.” Once found, though, customers usually fall in love. “We have 100 women’s and about 100 men’s boot styles, plus all the accessories,” he says. “We help customers find the right size, style, and look. We know how to expertly fit boots and hats, and we can explain the differences in quality so that you know exactly what you are getting.”
In addition to an extensive selection, Lebeda’s ambiance and decor complete the country vibe. That includes antler chandeliers, wagon wheel benches, and stuffed elk and buffalo heads. Boots brands include Ariat, Dan Post, Dingo, Corral, Laredo, and Justin. Mix it all together and it’s a recipe for a long-running success. “Lots of customers have been coming here since we opened,” John says. “We’ve sold to parents, their kids, and now we’re helping their grandkids.”
A western specialty boots store in suburban NJ…Just how rare is that? It’s pretty rare. There used to be more, but they’ve all slowly fizzled out. We have customers that come from all over the tri-state area and the world, because we have a unique product selection. We have customers who ride horses, and we get a lot of others who host or attend western-themed events, like weddings and birthday parties. Also, when people visit dude ranches out west, they want to look the part. We help them pick out jeans, boots, and hats. And for the last three or four years, we’ve had lots of people who love watching Yellowstone and love the fashion. Our customer base spans people who live—or want to look they live—the lifestyle.
NJ
What is your fastest-growing customer segment? Men’s work boots. We don’t sell anything with laces; everything is a pull-on style. Guys love that because they’re easier to get on and off. If you have a nice house, you don’t want your plumber coming in with dirty shoes, but he doesn’t want to sit on your front steps for half an hour untying and tying boots. Cowboy boots are easier than Timberlands.
What do you attribute Lebeda’s longevity to? We’ve always sold quality products. We don’t carry $20 boots sold on Amazon. We sell leading brands like Ariat, Corral, and Stetson. We also have good knowledge of our products. We service customers and make sure everything fits properly. They don’t have to wait for boots and apparel to be delivered, then have it fitted, or send it back. For example, some people have muscular calves, so we recommend either going with a shorter boot or stretching the boots. If they have a hard time getting their foot in a boot, we know tricks to help.
What are your top-selling boot brands? Ariat for men and Corral for women. Men are liking distressed brown looks of late. Women like white. A lot of the younger ladies are going to school down south where white cowboy boots are popular. They also wear them to concerts. The second most popular color for women is distressed brown.
What is the best new boot brand that you’ve added to your mix recently? Los Altos and Cuadra. Both offer unique styles and colors.
Anything unique about the Jersey customer in terms of their boot preferences? New Jersey
women like flashier styles, like those with rhinestones or sparkles. Men prefer a wide, square-toe boot. Pointed-toe styles aren’t popular here.
How does fit, brand, style, and price rank in importance for customers? Fit, style, price, brand.
What percentage of your sales is boots? Between 65 percent and 70 percent. It’s performing a little bit above where it was last year.
How’s business this year? We’re on track to do about the same as last year, which was a good year.
Is the trade war impacting your business? Higher prices are our biggest worry. If you have three kids and you want a pair of boots...the kids are going to get toys first. So we’re trying to stock some extra product in case prices go up.
What is your biggest challenge now? Big box stores moving near us. Two are now 20 to 30 minutes from us. So we’re adding new styles and brands that they don’t carry, in addition to promoting ourselves online and providing a level of service that they lack.
Where do you envision Lebeda’s in five years? Still here and selling to a new generation of customers.
What are you most proud of regarding your business? Our longevity. Over 50 years is something to be really proud of. We’ve worked hard at it.
What do you love most about being a retailer? Selling customers something that they’re really happy with. Seeing that reaction feels great.
The hidden western store gem carries about 100 boot styles each in men’s and women’s.
TThe Mountain Goat
Manchester, VT
HE MOUNTAIN GOAT co-owners, Ann and Ron Houser first spotted the charming town of Manchester, VT, on a bike ride to Canada. It left such an impression on the adventurous Virginia natives that they returned, this time to make their dream of opening an outdoor shop a reality. That was in 1987. The store has since become a town staple, offering the finest in outdoor clothing and gear for serious adventurers to casual wanderers alike.
Appealing to and servicing a broad spectrum of customers is a key to the store’s success. “Our merchandise managers do a great job of creating two worlds within the store,” says Elliott Couch, manager and footwear buyer. “Customers are seeking answers, and we take pride in listening and then making sure they walk out with products that suit their specific needs.”
The shop’s mix spans hikers from Lowa, Oboz and Scarpa, trail runners by On and Hoka, and everyday styles from Birkenstock, OluKai, Ugg, and Blundstone, among others. Ron serves as the Mountain Goat’s in-house pedorthist. In addition to foot and leg evaluations, the Amfit custom imaging and milling machine provides digital foot scans for creating custom orthotics in about an hour.
Couch believes the topnotch selection and expert service enables The Mountain Goat to rise above the competition. “We curate a very specific collection of quality brands, and we provide a customized experience with highly trained employees,” he says. “We pride ourselves on a customer-centric approach to make sure that we’re gaining a loyal local following and, for those passing through town, that they leave happy with what they bought.”
What are your top-selling footwear brands? On, Hoka, and Oboz for traditional-fitting shoes. And Topo Athletic for wide-toe boxes. It’s the best new brand we’ve added recently. Over the last few years, a lot of people have come in looking for a wider, more natural motion forefoot construction.
Any staples? Oboz for durable and supportive hiking and everyday shoes that do well with locals. In addition, Blundstone and Birkenstock.
What is your fastest-growing segment? Trail running for the last five to 10 years. We have quite a collection of men’s and women’s styles. People also wear those shoes for a range of outdoor activities.
Anything unique about the Manchester, VT, customer? This is a resort town; a lot of customers come in from urban centers in the Northeast. They generally want a more outdoorsy-looking shoe in neutral/safe colors instead of an eclectic color mix seen typically on European trail running shoes. We also sell a lot of hiking boots, because it’s a big activity for visitors. Plus, Manchester is an official stop on the Appalachian Trail, and a lot of thru-hikers come in looking for max-cushioned trail running shoes.
How does fit, brand, style, and price rank in order of importance? Fit, style, brand, price.
Is the footwear segment growing? It’s slowly growing year by year and now totals about 30 percent of overall sales. But our space is limited, so we don’t have plans to grow the selection too much. We plan, though, to constantly improve on it by curating the brands and styles we carry.
How’s business so far this year? It’s right on track with last year, so business is great. We saw a big jump in business during Covid for outdoor recreation, which has cooled off slightly. But we still see positive outcomes for our business as we move forward. Folks in Southern Vermont and visitors are still really interested in outdoor recreation and come to us for their product needs.
The bad news is... Especially over the last four or five years, it’s the lack of investment by some brands in specific styles that are selling well. It seems like there’s this constant need to reinvent footwear, but that doesn’t always align with our customers’ wants. So some people are buying two or three pairs of the same style because they’re nervous it will change. That happens often, especially with trail running shoes.
What is the smartest business decision you’ve made this past year? Bringing in Tread Labs, which makes very supportive sandals. You can wear them even on hikes and still feel good. We also added their insoles and orthotics. Both have increased our sales in those categories.
What are your goals for the rest of 2025? Gearing up for a big summer with our thru-hikers to get them fitted properly, testing some new footwear styles, continuing to offer personalized experience, and being adequately staffed.
How is the trade war impacting business? It could force brands to raise prices, and as a small, locally owned shop, we have much thinner margins versus a large brand or online retailer. We’ll have to raise prices if brands do. We’re also debating whether we pivot to price-friendlier brands?
Where do you envision The Mountain Goat in five years? More of the same: helping customers and supporting local nonprofits that protect our trails, forests, and ski hills. For example, this winter we held an outdoors-themed filmfest at our local theater. We had a raffle and a nonprofit partner raised awareness about its mission to protect the local environment. And this summer we’re staging trail races at a nearby forestry farm that’s a 501c3 with the goal of getting people exercising outside.
What do you love most about being a retailer? We work with really great brands from around the world that make terrific products. Anyone can walk into our shop and get prepared for any outdoor adventure. That’s a pretty special feeling.
The shop is nestled in a postcard perfect, small New England town.
Elliot Couch, manager/ footwear buyer
Pop Stars
Vivid accents raise the style volume on trail runners.
Arc’teryx
Mephisto Allrounder
Altra
Salewa
Featuring Aetrex orthotic support and memory foam cushioning for superior comfort
