I’ v e
e x p e r i e n c e d s o m e o f m y l i f e ’ s g r e at e s t
moments
in
Ö v e r k a l i x . From shooting films to
playing ice hockey for Team Salming against Överkalix IK. Börje Salming was indeed playing, as well as many other legends. I’ve been sauna bathing in Ängesån and felt the warmth of the midnight sun. Test driven a Harley Davidson and even driven a hot rod whilst singing “Smoke on the water”. I’ve scared anglers by shoving old stubs in order to create fake bear traces. Been paddling a Canadian canoe in Kamelunge, confessed my sins to Pohjanaen in Sirillius church. Starred in the play “Miss Julie” at Brännaberget one Midsummer’s eve (I left my theatre costume in Stockholm - as I was so eager to get to Överkalix that I only packed my fishing tools and forgot everything else - true story). Been fishing salmon with Mikkey Dee from Motörhead at Arctic Range, and done a whole lot of mischief that’s not suitable for print, so I think we’ll stop here…! The first time I saw Överkalix when driving across Hällabron, was in early June 1999. I was on my way up north to shoot a film in the wilderness, “Järngänget”. The film was directed by Jon Lindström and starred Alexander Skarsgård, Josephine Bornebusch, Marika Lagercrantz, as well as the now deceased actors Per Oscarsson who played my father and Emil Forselius who played my younger brother. The brilliant Jens Fischer was there to catch each moment on film. I was already fantasizing, even the name ÖVERKALIX mesmerized me, and to be able to film in these incredibly beautiful surroundings was like a dream. Having an X in a name, a town name, really impresses me. The fact that I’ve always loved nature and never minded long walks out in the wilderness, preferably with a fishing rod in my hand, didn’t make things worse. This was the start of the adventure. I’ve always loved Norrland and its people. When I first arrived in Norrbotten at Kallax Airport, yet another X, my heart skipped a beat. I had yearned to travelled there ever since I was little, having read numerous articles about the fishing, the famous salmon fishing in particular. When driving from Luleå I could feel the excitement already. This was where I was going to spend almost two months and a big part of me felt at home already. I entered the Grand Arctic Hotel holding a bunch of fishing rods and waders. The hotel resembled a palace in the middle of the outback. There I was treated to such hospitality by everyone. From my understanding that hospitality still lives on as the hotel now lets refugees enjoy the fantastic location and the stunning views. That’s HUGE, and something I know that the locals in Överkalix are immensely proud of. They always want to show
visitors the best side of Överkalix. I recall all the gifts I’ve received, from filming in Sanningslandet where we were offered freshly made pancakes with cloudberry, the gold of the forest, to the day I was to catch my first salmon of 10 kilo using a fly rod in Ängesån. Yeah that’s actually how it happened – it was a gift. Ronny Carlsson, renowned salmon fisherman and fly fishing guru brought me out to Ängesån. We walked to the spot he calls “Hällan”, you’d be surprised by how many salmon were caught – in total it was about 14. When Ronny had a salmon on the hook he asked calmly: “Do you want to try?” Of course I do, I thought to myself and grabbed the rod with shivering hands. With a whistling sound, 25 metres of line flew out, then another 25 metres. When will this end (?) I thought before Ronny leaned over, cigarette in his hand, saying “It’s probably not so small after all.” An hour later a 10 kilo salmon lay on “Hällan”. The following day this fish was served to the film crew, prepared by the film chef number 1, Bengt “the king” Karlsson, whom was instantly employed as our chef. He served me my first “Klämma” with potatoes, onion, sour cream and fermented herring. Before this I’d always avoided this type of food, but Bengt managed to change my mind. Consider yourself lucky if you get to experience food made in Bengt’s muurikka where everything from culinary Mediterranean specialties to local wild stews have been prepared. You could write a novel about this man! It’s such a lovely feeling to slowly move along the Kalix River in Bengt’s warm sauna, with the midnight sun as the backdrop. When in Överkalix you might also be lucky enough to meet the funniest man in Sweden, and I’m not talking about Robert Gustavsson or the other people calling themselves comedians, but Jocke Andersson from Vännäs, or Kron which he’s sometimes called. I was lucky to get him to play one of the big parts in “Babas Bilas” which I wrote and directed. Well, if I’m to sum up Överkalix, it’s not that hard: I love it and I long to be there when I’m not there. Plus, now I know where to find them - the 10 kilos salmons in Ängesån! These places are well worth a visit: Bengt’s sauna raft (River Rafter), Vippabacken, the Tractor Museum and Jockfall. Learn the art of fly-fishing from Erling Holmström and Ronny Landin. Or just do what I usually do; visit Kron and put a note on the table saying “I’ve gone to the woods, not sure when I’ll be back – Kisses // R.”