Page 1

18 Genius Slow-Cooker Suppers

★ ★ ★ ★

THE U LT I M AT E D R HUMMINGBI CAKE

Famous Southern

Cakes & Pies

★ ★ ★ ★

Legendary Recipes from Junior League Cookbooks

SOUTHERN LIVING HUMMINGBIRD CAKE PAGE 11 2

Kentucky’s Bourbon Pioneers A New House with Old Soul In Search of the Perfect Daffodil

F E B R UA RY 2 0 1 8


©2018 P&G


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DESIGNER ALAINA R A L P H U P DAT E S A RANCH HOME WITH COLOR AND W H I M SY. PAG E 8 2

February 60

68

82

90

Dispatches from the Garden Club of Virginia’s annual Daffodil Show— which is very, very competitive

Relaxed winter nights call for satisfying, no-fuss suppers. Pick your protein, toss in fresh ingredients, and let the slow cooker do the rest.

Through daring moves that bank on contrast and color, designer and artist Alaina Ralph transformed a James Island, South Carolina, ranch.

We present five incredible desserts that celebrate two beloved things in the South: citrus season and Junior League cookbooks.

BEST IN SHOW

THE BEAUTY OF SLOW COOKING

BOLD STROKES

A LEAGUE OF THEIR OWN

5 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


39

49

Departments COLUMNS 12 Life @ Southern Living 120 Southern Journal

HOME & GARDEN 15 House Plans

Building a home in a historic neighborhood sounds dreamy—and daring. See the magic happen in Mississippi. 28 Homegrown

Cool-weather-loving greens (like Swiss chard, beets, and spinach) to plant in your garden now

30 The Grumpy Gardener

Our garden expert alleviates growing pains. 32 Southern Tails

Four smart tips for surviving cold winters

114

45 Southern Vanity

Brighten up winter days with the fresh fragrance of grapefruit. 47 Wear This to That

Editor-at-Large Jenna Bush Hager chooses an outfit for a Valentine’s Day date in New Orleans.

36 Around the Garden

A seasonal guide for green thumbs

BE AUT Y & ST Y L E 39 In Her Shoes

Nashville food-andentertaining tastemaker Katie Jacobs shares her best fashion secrets.

6 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

TRAVEL & CULTURE 49 Bluegrass Gold

Meet the next generation of Kentucky distillers.

109 Southern Classic

Forty years later, we’ve yet to untangle the story behind our most popular three-layer dessert: Hummingbird Cake. 114 What Can I Bring?

Kick off the Super Bowl with one-bite appetizers. 116 Save Room

Pam Lolley, our queen of confections, puts a new twist on King cake. 118 Cooking School

Tips from the South’s most trusted kitchen

T H E SL KI TC H EN 101 Quick Fix

Five wholesome, hearty one-bowl dinners

ON THE COVER Photograph by VICTOR PROTASIO Prop Styling by KAY E. CLARKE Food Styling by TORIE COX


Y O U L I G H T T H E F I R E,

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Simplify Dinner! Cozi, a free mobile app from Time Inc., makes meal planning and shopping easier. We’ve loaded the recipes from “Super Bowls” (p. 101) into the app, available on iTunes and Google Play.

O

98

Pork-and-Farro Bowl with Warm Brussels SproutsFennel Salad, p. 105 OOO

Pork-and-Shaved Vegetable Salad, p. 76 OOO

Pork Chops, p. 76

Recipe Index OO

APPETIZERS

Carbonara with Braised Lamb, p. 71

OO

Mini Potato Skins, p. 114

OOO

SWEETS

Salmon, p. 79

OOO

O

Salmon Bagel Sandwiches,

Cold Lemon Soufflés with Wine Sauce, p. 99

p. 79

OOO

OO

Florida Orange Grove Pie, p. 97

Shepherd’s Pie, p. 71

OO

OO

Grand Marnier Cakes, p. 98

Shrimp, Sausage, and Black Bean Pasta, p. 81

O

OO

O

Skillet Chicken Pot Pie with Leeks and Mushrooms,

Hummingbird Cupcakes, p. 113

p. 74

Lemon-Orange Pound Cake,

OO

p. 97

Skirt Steak and Cauliflower Rice with Red Pepper Sauce,

OO

Praline-Cream Cheese King Cakes, p. 116

OO

OO

Sliced Pork Chops with Brown Butter-Golden Raisin Relish,

Shaker Lemon Pie, p. 98

p. 76

E XT R AS

O

Chicken, p. 75 O

Soba Noodle-and-Shrimp Bowls, p. 104

OO

Chicken Biscuit Sandwiches,

OOO

Black Bean Burgers with Comeback Sauce,

p. 75

Spicy Red Curry with Chicken,

OO

p. 75

p. 80

Citrus-Salmon Salad,

OOO

OOO

p. 79

Black Beans, p. 80

O

Teriyaki Salmon Bowls with Crispy Brussels Sprouts,

OOO

Couscous Pilaf with Roasted Carrots, Chicken, and Feta,

p. 78

p. 107

Turkey Breast, p. 72

p. 80

OO

OOO

OOO

Cuban Black Bean-and-Yellow Rice Bowls, p. 102

Turkey with Shallot-Mustard Sauce and Roasted Potatoes,

O

p. 72

Kentucky Hot Brown Casserole, p. 73

OOO

Black Bean Tostadas with Mango-Avocado Salsa,

Braised Lamb Shanks with Parmesan-Chive Grits, p. 70 O

Caramelized Onion, Spinach, and Pork Strata, p. 77

FI ND I T FA ST: O QUICK PREP

|

O

OOO

Wedge Salad with Turkey and Blue Cheese-Buttermilk Dressing, p. 72

OOO

Lamb Shanks, p. 71

PARTY PERFECT

8 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

|

O

MAKE AHEAD

|

O

OO

p. 106

OOO

MA INS

Hummingbird Cake, p. 112

GLUTEN FREE

OO

Candied Pineapple Wedges, p. 113

Editorial Offices: 4100 Old Montgomery Hwy., Homewood, AL 35209. Customer Service: Southern Living, P.O. Box 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120; 800/272-4101. Customer service available online 24 hours a day: southernliving.com/customerservice. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within two years. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Mailing List: We make a portion of our mailing list available to reputable firms. If you prefer that we not include your name, please call or write us. (See Customer Service, above.) Southern Living (ISSN 0038-4305) is published monthly by Time Inc. Lifestyle Group, 4100 Old Montgomery Highway, Birmingham, AL 35209. Periodicals Postage paid at Birmingham, Alabama, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: PLEASE SEND CHANGES OF ADDRESS TO “Southern Living,” Customer Service Department, P.O. Box 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40110178. GST #132300211RT0001. ©2018 Time Inc. Lifestyle Group. “Southern Living” and “Southern Journal” are registered trademarks of Time Inc. Lifestyle Group. Address all correspondence to “Southern Living,” 4100 Old Montgomery Highway, Birmingham, AL 35209; 800/272-4101. SOUTHERN LIVING is staff produced and cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited material. U.S. SUBSCRIPTION PRICE: $22 for one year. Allow 6 to 8 weeks for change of address. Printed in the U.S.A.


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Secret Ingredients Celebrate the coming of spring with a few legendary desserts

THIS ISSUE MARKS the 40th anniversary of the Hummingbird Cake— or at least the 40th anniversary of the February 1978 issue of Southern Living, in which a story called “Making the Best of Bananas” featured Mrs. L.H. Wiggins’ Hummingbird Cake recipe for the first time. We don’t know much about Mrs.

Wiggins except that she worked as a housemother at The University of North Carolina at Greensboro, as Kathleen Purvis reports in “The Mystery of Hummingbird Cake” (page 109). But we do know that Mrs. Wiggins’ layer cake struck a chord with readers, and over the years, it has become the most requested recipe in the history of the magazine. Maybe it’s because of the rich, nutty flavor; maybe it’s because the cake is exceptionally moist and keeps forever; or maybe it’s because the dessert seems to work for almost any occasion, from a birthday party to Easter brunch. Whatever the reason, the Hummingbird Cake is something of a celebrity now, so it was about time we put her on the cover. But that’s not the only legendary dessert in this issue. With “A League of Their Own” (page 90), we pay tribute to a few of our favorite Junior League cookbooks, those spiral-bound beauties that have defined Southern cooking for decades. Chances are, you probably have many of these classics (The Gasparilla Cookbook, Stop and Smell the Rosemary, or Tea-Time at the Masters) in your kitchen already, but when was the last time you pulled

one off the shelf and flipped through it? This month, we bring you five citrus desserts—rediscovered by food guru Sheri Castle and tested in the Southern Living kitchens—that will remind you how creative Junior League recipes can be. And these books not only show off the talents of home cooks all over the South, but they also raise money, sometimes millions of dollars, for good causes. They give a whole new meaning to the notion of having your cake and eating it too. There’s no question that some of these cakes and pies are decadent, but when you’re trying to get through a long, cold winter, you need a taste of sunshine. Whether it’s a Hummingbird Cake (page 112) or a Florida Orange Grove Pie (page 97), try baking one for the whole family and see if a slice doesn’t make everyone feel good. If there’s one reason these desserts have been famous for generations, that must be it.

SID EVANS EDITOR IN CHIEF

@sidmemphis sid@southernliving.com

“EAT WELL. LOSE WEIGHT. LIVE HEALTHY.” This is the philosophy of the Cooking Light Diet, a subscription-

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based meal plan customized just for you. It provides easy-to-use planning resources, shopping aids, and delicious recipes to make the week’s meal prep a breeze. It’s tailored to your tastes—literally. Members can build meal plans around dietary preferences, including vegetarian and gluten-free options. Use the promo code SOUTHERN18 for an exclusive 20% discount. diet.cookinglight.com/newhealthy18

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PORTRAIT: ROBBIE CAPONETTO; STYLING: CELINE RUSSELL/ZENOBIA

At The Atomic Bar & Lounge in Birmingham


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AVAILABLE NOW WHEREVER BOOKS ARE SOLD and Ball™s Ball Corporation, used under license. © 2017 Hearthmark, LLC. All Rights Reserved.


&

STYLING: MATTHEW GLEASON

HOUSE PLANS

New Home Old Soul

Building a house in a historic neighborhood sounds dreamy— and daring. See the magic happen in Mississippi BY CAROLINE COLLINS MCKENZIE

|

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAUREY W. GLENN

A N D

O U T

FEBRUARY 2018

S P A C E S — I N S I D E

15 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

B E A U T I F U L


HOME & GARDEN

OXFORD, MISSISSIPPI, was love at first sight for lawyer turned interior designer Virginia Mary Brown. When she and her now-husband, Ray, began dating, he would take her to visit the old college town, where his family has deep roots. She was instantly charmed

Timeless touches: Brown opted for a classic Outdoor Original fan by Hunter to cool the porch, and she covered the chain on the Ballard Designs Sunday Porch Swing with rope.

by the picturesque square and the shady streets, which inspired the setting in many Faulkner novels. Although the couple ultimately settled in Houston, Texas, Oxford would always remain their special getaway. Fast-forward two decades: Their

oldest son, Ray Brown, III, enrolled at the University of Mississippi, providing them the perfect opportunity to build a second home in Oxford. After scoring a downtown property, they selected a 2,600-square-foot Southern Living House Plan (Turnball Park, plan 1124, by Moser Design Group, Inc.). Brown knew that the exterior’s classic front columns and two-story porch would immediately connect their new home with Oxford’s older buildings. Though she decided to construct from the ground up, the last thing she wanted was a home that felt, well, new. A few architectural details, such as tongueand-groove paneling and wide-plank floors milled from reclaimed pine beams, contributed to the mature look. “Textured materials add age to a new house,” says Brown. “They help make everything feel softer and more relaxed.” Next, she juxtaposed those building elements with a black, white, and blue color scheme that gave the place a fresh, graphic vibe. Here, the designer shares her best techniques for transforming a new house into a warm and comfortable home.

PICK A CL ASSIC PALET TE “Because the house sits in a historic-preservation district, going with a white exterior was a no-brainer,” says Brown, who picked out Benjamin Moore’s White Dove (OC-17) to coat the Southern vernacular house. Other touches like the black window sashes (Benjamin Moore’s Phelps Black, DC-22) and “haint blue” porch ceiling (Sherwin-Williams’ Bravo Blue, SW 6784) were inspired by neighboring properties.

16 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM


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HOME & GARDEN

HARMONIZE HIGH AND LOW One secret to Brown’s sophisticated but unpretentious home is how she seamlessly blends one-of-a-kind finds with discount-store purchases. In the living room, for example, luxe details like custom upholstery and antique-auction furnishings mingle well with bargain buys such as a modern flower chandelier from Ikea.

CONNECT WITH MOTHER NATURE Believe it or not, this modern color palette of black, brown, and white is rooted in the great outdoors. “When I think of Oxford, I immediately envision its towering trees,” says Brown, who sought to create a woodsy vibe to run throughout the home. Her starting point: the tree-adorned Arbre de Matisse Reverse Brown on Tint fabric by China Seas (quadrillefabrics.com), which she used on two bold club chairs in the living room. Other nature-inspired accent pieces in the space include the oversize rattan hurricane and the landscape painting over the fireplace. To ensure the room’s look didn’t skew too rustic, Brown layered in sleek pieces like the lacquer-and-acrylic plastic coffee table to balance out the earthy finds.

18 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

Instant character: The living room’s marble-topped chest was an auction find. “I like for every room to have one genuine antique,” says Brown.


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HOME & GARDEN

Room with a hue: Every ceiling in the house is painted Benjamin Moore’s Lavender Wash (CSP-515). “It brings freshness,” says Brown.

EMBRACE OLD TRE ASURES Brown was drawn to the home’s large 16- by 17-foot dining room floor plan and searched to find a well-proportioned table for the area. The winner was an antique pine piece that easily seats 10 and came with its imperfections. “It’s elegant, but it can also take a beating,” says Brown. She mixed it with gray wicker chairs and a sky blue lantern to complete the look.

MAKE ONE BOLD MOVE “Powder rooms are where I really like to go all-in with a pattern,” notes Brown. She covered this barely 3 1⁄2-foot-wide space with Fireworks by Albert Hadley (donghia .com). “I’ve been eyeing this wallpaper for years,” she adds. Classic black-and-white selections, including an American Standard pedestal sink, a Louis Philippe mirror, and a series of framed cartoon sketches, round out the small space.

PAIR OPPOSITES

Smart move: Here, Brown boosted efficiency by moving the KitchenAid appliances to the perimeter and saving the island for prep work.

20 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

High contrast reigns in the kitchen: ebony cabinetry topped with marble counters, white subway tile set in charcoal grout, and a Randolph Morris Fireclay Farmhouse Sink with a Bridge Style Kitchen Faucet in Polished Nickel (both from vintagetub.com). Brown accessorized with quirky pieces like a lamp constructed from wooden craft sticks and a bust of Thomas Jefferson.


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HOME & GARDEN

SET TLE ON A RESTFUL SHADE

A fresh spin: Spatterwareinspired linens by Biscuit Home (Austin Shams and Duvet in Blue) ease the canopy bed’s formality.

Brown’s favorite color, lavender, appears throughout the home, and it makes an especially prominent statement in the master bedroom. She stitched together two different curtain panels—Seraphine in French Gray by Les Indiennes on the outside and Ballard Designs’ premade solid panels on the inside—and hung them from a Reid Classics bed that was handcrafted in Dothan, Alabama.

E XPLORE UNUSED TERRITORY Keen on utilizing every square inch of the floor plan, Brown managed to fit in an office at the top of the steps. “It’s made the house for us,” she says. “Ray and I both get so much work done there.” Passed down from her grandmother (also named Virginia Mary), the mahogany desk anchoring the area is so pretty that it almost outshines the expansive gilded mirror hanging above it.

GO BIG IN SMALL SPACES Some might shy away from large-scale artwork in a compact bedroom (in the home’s original floor plan, the one shown above was just a storage area), but not Brown. In fact, she finds oversize artwork has more impact in a small space. Case in point: the bird prints hung on either side of the black spindle bed. Combined with a subtly patterned wallpaper and a seagrass floor covering, the large prints help the room feel comfortably snug.

22 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM


STICK WITH OLD STANDBYS

CRE ATE AN OUTDOOR HANGOUT The back porch presents a foolproof formula for coziness: Start with graypainted floorboards and a large brick fireplace, add a foursome of woven chairs and a wrought-iron coffee table, and then finish with interior-worthy niceties like a jute rug and hanging mirror. (See also: the ever-popular flat-screen television.) Brown chose multiple chairs in lieu of a sofa, thanks to their versatility (she says they’re easier to rearrange). In the fall, everyone watches football out here.

“Some things are timeless for a reason,” says Brown. She used tried-and-true (and affordable!) materials like botanical prints and subway and hex tiles to pull together the finishing touches for the guest bath. Little extras such as sets of plush monogrammed towels and a small brass table lamp provide posh accents in the space. Â

BUY THE PLAN

Get comfortable: The four La Jolla Lounge Chairs from Restoration Hardware are constructed from a durable all-weather wicker material.

The Browns built their Oxford classic from the Turnball Park plan (1124). Although they hired architect Dillon Kyle to tweak their plan to include a fourth bedroom, Southern Living House Plans offer modification services as well. To find the details for this house and hundreds more, visit house plans.southern living.com.

23 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


HOME & GARDEN

Colorful selections: A bright harvest of hot pink beets and Swiss chard

HOMEGROWN

Glorious Greens Cool-weather-loving picks to plant in your garden now BY MARY BETH SHADDIX

Neat and tidy: Use string or twine to plant in straight rows.

LIGHT

Choose a location that gets full sun to part shade.

BRANCH OUT beyond the traditional Southern gardener’s collard greens and try Swiss chard, beets, and spinach. These nutritious, colorful options are quick growers that thrive in February’s cool temperatures. Plant them now so you can reap their rewards through the middle of April. THE PL ANT SELECTION Because the cool-weather window in the South can be short and unpredictable this time of year, it’s okay to take a shortcut by choosing transplants (also known as starter plants) instead of growing from seeds. Once the temperatures climb, greens will begin to bolt (bloom). You can buy transplants 28 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

in packs of six at garden centers. If you have more time and patience, sow seeds. You’ll find some of the best options online at southernexposure .com and johnnyseeds.com. ‘Summer Perfection’ and ‘Tyee’ are two spinach selections that are well suited to our region’s warm locales. To bring more color to your garden, choose ‘Red Kitten’ spinach or ‘Bull’s Blood’ beets. ‘Bright Lights’ Swiss chard features stalks in a kaleidoscope of colors (like purple, gold, pink, orange, and red).

THE GROWING PROCESS Set out transplants or sow seeds four to six weeks before the season’s last frost. Don’t know your local frost dates?

Visit almanac.com/ gardening/frostdates to find estimates of the last spring frost dates by zip code. A CARE bright spot in your Water plants garden that receives regularly, at least a half day and mulch to keep soil of sunlight is ideal. moist and Space Swiss chard cool. Apply a in rows 12 inches high-nitrogen apart, spinach 8 fertilizer. inches apart, and beets 3 inches apart. If using seeds, follow individual packet instructions. Leafy vegetables flourish with a high-nitrogen fertilizer such as FoxFarm Grow Big (6-4-4). Â

PHOTOGRAPHS: RANDY MAYOR; ILLUSTRATION: MICHAEL HOEWELER

SOIL

Plant in fertile, well-drained soil that has been amended with compost. In containers, use quality potting soil.


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O U R GA R D E N E X P E R T A L L E V I AT E S YO U R G R OW I N G PA I N S

TOSS ’EM › I have a container of tulips that were forced into bloom indoors. If I keep them in a sunny place, can I save them and then plant them outside later? —MICHELE » It sounds like that should work, but it doesn’t. Toss forced tulips in the compost or trash once they are done blooming. Buy new bulbs next fall, either for forcing or planting in the ground. MITE-Y EFFECTIVE › I found red spider mites on the leaves and stems of my ‘Meyer’ lemon tree that I grow in a pot. What is a good organic control? —ELISSA

» Spider mites attack many plants brought indoors for

“Bugs like newspapers? Stop the presses!”

the winter, because they like the dry air and lack of predators. An easy, safe (and cheap!) method for killing them is to add two to three drops of liquid detergent to a quart-size spray bottle that’s filled with water and apply on the leaves and stems. Be sure to wet both the upper and lower leaf surfaces. DISTURBING THE PEACE › The tips of my peace lily’s leaves are turning brown. What causes that? —BARBARA

» This is probably a watering problem. Let the water sit out overnight before use so it can reach room temperature and the chlorine can evaporate. Be sure to keep the soil evenly moist. Water your plant thoroughly so excess moisture drains from the pot. This leaches out fertilizer salts that can burn the leaves. Protect the foliage from hot sun or cold drafts. If you can, take your plant outside several times in the summer before a good rain. Peace lilies love this. STUPID SNAILS › Last year, snails ate every bit of new vegetation in my garden and made it difficult to grow anything. How do I prevent this from happening again? —DENISE » Slug bait is the most effective control for shielding your plants from both smart

Ask the Grump! No question goes unanswered on his Facebook page: facebook.com/slgrumpygardener

30 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

by

S T EV E B E N D E R

GRUMPY’S GRIPE OF THE MONTH February is the ficklest month. Sometimes, it behaves responsibly and provides the weather it’s supposed to—chilly days and cold nights. This tells our hardy plants that it’s not quite time to wake up so they remain dormant. But almost invariably, it perversely dupes our gardens with a week of 70-degree temperatures, coaxing trees, shrubs, and bulbs to bloom too early in the season. Then it snaps its jaws with a sudden freeze, and the hoodwinked flowers die.

and stupid snails and slugs. There are two popular kinds of the product—one contains metaldehyde, and the other consists of iron phosphate. Both of the baits come as granules that you sprinkle around your plants. Be careful when and where you use these products, because they are both toxic to wildlife if consumed. It’s important to follow the label directions and keep them safely away from pets. Â

ILLUSTRATIONS: MICHAEL WITTE

HEADLINE NEWS › An organic yard service suggested that we use newspapers to mulch the flower beds around our home. “What a wonderful idea!” we thought. Several weeks later, our flower beds were infested with earwigs, grubs, and millipedes. We ended up having to call in a professional. —MARY » Newspaper pages used as mulch absorb a lot of water. As you’ve discovered, many insects love the moist, dark environment beneath them. In the future, I recommend recycling the newspapers and mulching with ground bark or pine straw instead. This will discourage weeds without attracting all of the creepy-crawlies.


the fresh flavors of

Every Season

30 ICONIC SOUTHERN VEGETABLES

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No one knows the South better than Southern Living.

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PET OF THE MONTH @mollythenewfie Follow this lady’s adventures in small-town Argyle, Texas.

nighttime temperatures drop below freezing, bring them indoors. On rainy and windy days, be sure to monitor both the temperature and windchill, which accounts for moisture in the air. Once the windchill dips under 32 degrees, pets should be brought inside.

BEWARE OF CHEMICALS

PETIQUETTE

Ready for Weather

STICK TO YOUR ROUTINE

Four smart tips for surviving cold winters BY NELLAH BAILEY MCGOUGH AND PATRICIA S. YORK

GIVE A DOG A HOME f Start with a basic structure that has a floor, roof, and sides to block out the wind and rain. Be sure to rotate it seasonally. During the winter, the opening should face south to avoid exposure to cool north winds.

In the summer, turn the shelter toward the east so the opening faces away from the blazing afternoon sun.

WATCH THE THERMOMETER f On sunny days, it’s okay to leave dogs outside in temps below 32 degrees, but when

f One of our veterinary experts, Dr. Mark Miller with Cahaba Valley Animal Clinic in Birmingham, says, “Unless you live in a place with extreme weather, like upper Michigan or Canada, keep your pet’s food intake the same during winter.” Even though days are shorter and temperatures are colder, you should also maintain your dog’s regular exercise routine.”

GOOD DOG

Grab Your Coat

ASK DR. MOLLY This Bluffton, South Carolina, vet solves your hairiest pet problems

MY ELDERLY DOG IS SLOWING DOWN. HOW CAN WE HELP HIM? > As pets age, many will display signs of arthritis, which can include stiff joints and a hesitation to jump into the car or go up or down the stairs. There are joint supplements available at pet stores that help provide relief for these symptoms. However, some dogs may need anti-inflammatory or other pain-relieving medications to help with discomfort. A physical exam is necessary to determine if your pet has arthritis or if it’s a more serious health condition. Before relying on any over-the-counter remedies, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian. Â To ask Dr. Molly Spears a question or nominate

NYLON TURNOUT DOG COAT

Inspired by water-resistant horse covers, this extra layer is perfectly suited for extreme winter weather. From $48.95; truefitdogcoats.com

32 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

your pet for Pet of the Month, e-mail us at slpets@southernliving.com.

TOP LEFT: ALAMY; DOG IN COAT: HECTOR MANUEL SANCHEZ; ILLUSTRATION: MICHAEL HOEWELER

f Antifreeze has a sweet taste that dogs love, but it’s deadly. Keep all antifreeze containers out of reach of animals, and check under your car for any leaks. Call your veterinarian right away if your dog has ingested antifreeze or you suspect that he has. Deicing chemicals and salt used on roads can also be harmful to dogs. Wipe off your pet’s paws after walks to keep him from licking the chemicals and to prevent his skin from absorbing them.


After comparing ingredients,

©2018 Blue Buffalo Co., Ltd.

9 out of 10 people who feed Friskies prefer the ingredients in BLUE.

Top 5 Ingredients 1. Meat By-Products 2. Water Sufficient for Processing 3. Poultry By-Products 4. Turkey 5. Poultry Giblets

1. Turkey 2. Chicken Broth 3. Chicken Liver 4. Chicken 5. Ground Brown Rice

BLUE Healthy Gourmet® and Purina® Friskies® both provide complete and balanced nutrition. But when Friskies feeders were asked to compare the top 5 ingredients of Friskies and BLUE, 9 out of 10 preferred the ingredients in BLUE. So compare for yourself and we think you’ll prefer BLUE too.

Learn more about BLUE Healthy Gourmet at CatCanTest.com

Love them like family. Feed them like family.®


Bigger and Better in TexTake a look inside a Southern Living house plan that was slightly enlarged—or “Texa-fied”—to fit the expectations of a Houston family.

W

hen Morning Star Builders decided to build a Southern Living Custom Builder Program Showcase Home in the Bluejack National Club and Community, Chief Creative Officer Ted Cummins began looking for house plans that would fit the resort’s style. “Once we knew their vision was a community full of classic American architectural styles we knew that a Southern Living Plan would shine in this community,” Cummins explains. For the home of Nate and Amanda Peterson, they all agreed on the Elberton Way home, but it didn’t quite fit the needs of the Peterson’s big family. “The elevation of the Elberton Way is so inviting and charming, but the plan wasn’t quite big enough,” the couple says. They added a casita guesthouse and enlarged the main core of the house to include a dining space, an additional bedroom and game room. Since French doors would be such a key part of the flow of the house, Cummins chose

Marvin. The Marvin French doors were also a perfect way to seamlessly connect the main house with the outdoor patios and guest casita. Along with its pleasing rhythm of hip, gable, and swooping rooflines, the Elberton Way home’s appeal is also emphasized by shed dormers and bay windows. “In keeping with the style of the home, the design of Marvin windows made them the first choice,” he says. “Plus Marvin’s exterior aluminum clad finish has superior resistance to fading and chalking, which is a big concern for the area.” He knew he picked right after Hurricane Harvey whipped through Bluejack National and the windows performed as expected. “It’s a testimony to Marvin’s quality.”


DESIGNED WITH PURPOSE

Because our expectations are as high as yours. Discover the difference at marvinwindows.com.


A SEASONAL GUIDE FOR GREEN THUMBS

Most border forsythias grow 7 to 10 feet tall. For a small one, try ‘Gold Tide,’ which tops out at 20 inches.

YOUR FEBRUARY CHECKLIST SOW Start summer annuals indoors for planting outside after your area’s last frost. Sprinkle seeds over the top of peat pots, cell packs, or seed-starting trays that are filled with fresh potting soil. Barely cover them. Once they have sprouted, relocate them to a spot close to a sunny window or place them beneath a grow light.

PREVENT Seeing forsythia blooms signals that it’s a good time to apply a weed preventer (not a weedand-feed) to your lawn. This will inhibit the germination of crabgrass, Dallis grass, foxtail, spurge, dandelions, sandbur, and other weeds. If you plan to sow grass seed, do not use a weed preventer on your lawn.

PRUNE Now is a great time to cut back summer-blooming shrubs such as rose of Sharon (shrub althaea), Cape plumbago, chaste tree, butterfly bush, panicle hydrangea, gardenia, and angel’s trumpet.

PLANT OF THE MONTH

Forsythia Ring in spring with these cheery yellow bells BY STEVE BENDER

NO PLANT DOES A BETTER JOB of announcing the end of winter than classic border forsythia (Forsythia x intermedia). Also called “yellow bells” for the shape and color of its blooms, it responds to the first mild days of late winter and early spring by smothering its leafless branches with blossoms. It’s extremely easy to grow in USDA Zones 6 to 8, needing only good drainage and full to partial sun. Do not prune it into meatballs and boxes! Maintain the plant’s graceful, arching form by cutting it back to about 2 feet tall after it blooms. It will quickly send up new branches to regain its former size and shape by summer’s end and be ready to bloom again the following spring. Â 36 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

If your camellia’s leaves are spotted with yellow, then inspect the undersides. Notice little brown and white specks? Those are tea scales that suck all the leaves’ juices, causing them to drop. Pick off infested leaves (this won’t hurt the plant), and throw them out with the trash. Then spray the camellia with horticultural oil according to the label directions, being sure to wet the undersides of the foliage. Spray the plant again in May.

ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE

C ONTROL


$'9(57,6(0(17

SOUTHERN

AFFAIRS

YOUR INVITATION TO EVENTS, SWEEPSTAKES, AND SPECIAL OFFERS

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Make the most of your slow cooker, with the help of Cooking Light! The best make-ahead soups, stews, potpies, and more in Slow Cooker Favorites. Now available from

There’s no better person to help you start prepping your garden than The Grumpy Gardener himself, Steve Bender, and no better book! Purchase yours now at

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Hilton Head Island Seafood Festival

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Join us for the quintessential, Lowcountry culinary celebration on Hilton Head Island! Take in celebrity chef dinners, southern pitmasters, wildlife, cooking demos, mixologist and more. Incredible seafood, rustic barbecue and southern charm collide on one gorgeous Island setting.

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& H O W

T O

L O O K

A N D

F E E L

Y O U R

B E S T

IN HER SHOES

Music City Style Nashville food-andentertaining tastemaker Katie Jacobs shares her best-kept fashion secrets BY BETSY CRIBB

FEBRUARY 2018

Italian Cashmere Side-Slit Tunic, $248; jcrew.com. Tootsie Jean, $168; draperjames.com. Jewelry, from $40; brookeworthington jewelry.com. Boots, her own. Location, City Farmhouse

39 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

HAIR AND MAKEUP: AMY KRUSE/AMAX TALENT

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ROBBIE CAPONETTO


BE AUT Y & ST Y LE

A FAVORITE QUOTE

“BE SILLY. BE HONEST. BE KIND.” —Ralph Waldo Emerson

A DRESS AND HEELS used to be Katie Jacobs’ daily uniform. But these days, you’ll more likely find the Nashvillebased stylist and photographer in jeans, chasing around 3-year-old daughter Emmaline or posting lifestyle shots on Instagram (@katiejacobsnashville). “Relaxed elegance” is how Katie—who’s expecting her second daughter at press time—defines her style. This description also applies to how she entertains. Her first book, So Much To Celebrate: Entertaining the Ones You Love the Whole Year Through, debuts in March. “It’s about getting everyone together, with easy tips for everyday celebrations,” she says. My Outfit I went really simple with jeans and a sweater, which is what I live in. I also pulled in a handbag and accessories from Music City designers to go with them. Local designers are important [for Nashville fashion]: Southern roots are the ones that last. My Childhood Style Icon My grandmother Kathleen, whom we called Honey Mama. Talk about presentable! She had on red lipstick, pearls, and starched button-downs all the time. We always had to be dressed around her. We wore Sunday clothes to Monday-night dinner at her house. 40 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

Stan the Bear Guy Shirt, $135; rollerrabbit.com. Peplum-Sleeve V-Neck Sweater, $59.50; jcrew.com. Jeans, her own. Satchel in Cheetah, $425; cerihoover.com. Booties, her own. Jewelry, from $68; judithbright.com. Location, City Farmhouse

My Style Icon Now You’ll never catch Kate Middleton wearing sweatpants! But she combines her designer pieces with affordable clothing. I do a lot of that, too, like pairing Gap jeans with an expensive handbag. Mixing different price points is something that’s not only approachable but also doable. Kate achieves that well and looks so put together all the time.

The Best Style Advice I Ever Received “Choose quality over quantity.” When I was growing up, my mother bought me some nice clothes that I kept wearing for years. The Outfit-Making Accessories Everyone Needs A stack of bracelets and a cute handbag worn with a white T-shirt and jeans can go a long way.


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BE AUT Y & ST Y LE KATIE’S QUICK PICKS Silver or or Polka Dots / or Pearls / Bright Nails or or Blazer / or Melanie Smooter / Updo or Store-Bought Valentines or

My Go-To Piece for Any Occasion A little black dress. I have three in my closet that I always feel good in and know will be appropriate for everything—from work to a wedding to a party. You really can’t go wrong with a classic black dress, no matter what time of year it is. The One Thing I Can’t Live Without When we were dating, my husband gave me an antique locket from the 1800s (he bought it from Walton’s Antique & Estate Jewelry in Franklin, Tennessee). I wear it every day— even for my wedding— and it really is one of my most treasured possessions.

The Style Rule I Always Break “Classics have to cost a ton of money.” I love sales and shopping at off-price retailers like Nordstrom Rack and T.J.Maxx to find real designer pieces for a fraction of the cost. If you shop smart, you NASHVILLE can get great deals on FAVORITES items that are versatile Shop your way and timelessly chic. through the best of Music City with a visit to these hip spots.

The Best Thing I’ve Ever Scored While 1. The Perfect Pair Bargain Hunting 2. AshBlue I once found a Dolce & 3. Judith Bright Gabbana white pencil 4. Ceri Hoover skirt, and I’ve worn 5. White’s it probably a hundred Mercantile times. It was maybe 6. Peter Nappi $40, and this staple The Beauty Trick would still be a great I’ll Never, Ever Try find even if it weren’t made by Dolce I don’t use dry shampoo. I cannot get & Gabbana. This one just happened to into this beauty trend. I prefer to wash be by a high-end designer. my hair every day.

The Pieces I Don’t Mind Splurging On Definitely handbags and jewelry. You will wear those over and over again. I invest in the pieces that I know I can mix and match with everything, and then I buy trendier items (like a top with cutout shoulders) at stores with lower price points. My Current Fashion Struggle I try to dress Emmaline well, but she’s the most rough-and-tumble toddler I’ve ever seen! She blows through her clothes, so we will have no hand-medowns. My mom says she’s a lot like me, though, so I guess it’s payback. My Southern Style Trademarks Growing up and living in the South, I’ve realized there’s just a dressier sensibility here. Women embrace a more feminine, traditional style but don’t take themselves too seriously. Oh, and we would never leave the house without makeup on! Â

INSIDE KATIE’S INSTAGRAM WORLD

Bundled up at The St. Regis Deer Valley in Park City, Utah

Pretty in pink for a shimmering celebration

42 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

An oversize-check shirt for afternoon photo styling

Homemade Whiskey Apple Pie for dessert? Yes, please!


BE AUT Y & ST YLE

SOUTHERN VANITY

Sunny Scents

1

Brighten up those long days of winter with the fresh fragrance of grapefruit BY MARY SHANNON WELLS PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBBIE CAPONETTO

1 ENERGETIC

Feel like you’ve escaped to an exotic destination with each spritz of this bright perfume, which combines sweet honeysuckle and grapefruit with notes of lily-of-thevalley and gardenia. Mediterranean Honeysuckle Eau de Parfum Spray, $120 for 1.7 oz.; aerin.com

2 SPARKLING

An ordinary day can transform into an extra-special occasion with a fragrance inspired by the Champagne region of France. Citron de Vigne Eau de Parfum, $50 for 30 ml.; fresh.com

citrus. Grapefruit Cologne, $65 for 30 ml.; jomalone .com

4 ROMANTIC 2

Say hello to a new signature scent that’s light and airy but has a subtle woodsy undertone. Chance Eau Vive Eau de Toilette, $102 for 3.4 oz.; chanel.com

3

5 SOPHISTICATED

Top off an elegant ensemble with a perfume that mixes grapefruit, pink pepper, and raspberry. Love Relentlessly Eau de Parfum Spray, $118 for 3.4 oz.; toryburch.com Â

4

3

STYLING: SHANNON GINI

REFRESHING

This dreamy wake-up call has a hint of sweet, a dash of spice, and a nice splash of

5

45 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


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What our clients are saying about Stauer Helenite jewelry: â&#x20AC;&#x153;My wife received more compliments on this stone on the first day she wore it than any other piece of jewelry Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve ever given her.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; J. from Orlando, FL Stauer Client

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O

n May 18, 1980, Mount St. Helens erupted, sending a column of ash and smoke 80,000 feet into the atmosphere. From that chaos, something beautiful emergedâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;our spectacular Spirit Lake Helenite Ring.

spectacular large carat weight jewelry. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just recently that luxury jewelers have fallen in love with helenite,â&#x20AC;? says James Fent, GIA certified gemologist. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Clear green color in a stone this size is rarely found in emeralds but helenite has come to the rescue.â&#x20AC;?

Created from the superheated volcanic rock dust of the historic Mount St. Helens eruption, helenite has become the green stone of choice for jewelry and fashion designers worldwide. Heleniteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vivid color and immaculate clarity rivals mined emeralds that can sell for as much as $3,000 per carat. Today you can wear this 4-carat stunner for only $99!

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Our exclusive design highlights the visually stunning stone with a concave cut set in .925 sterling silver loaded with brilliant white, lab-created DiamondAuraÂŽ. The classic pairing of colors in a vintageinspired setting makes for a statement ring thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s simply impossible to ignore! Â&#x2021;Â&#x192;Â&#x2014;Â&#x2013;Â&#x203A; Â&#x2C6;Â&#x201D;Â&#x2018;Â? Â&#x2013;Â&#x160;Â&#x2021; Â&#x201E;Â&#x2021;Â&#x192;Â&#x2022;Â&#x2013;Ǥ Also known as â&#x20AC;&#x153;Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Emerald,â&#x20AC;? helenite is not an emerald at all, but a brighter and clearer green stone that gem cutters can facet into

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Stauer

ÂŽ 14101 Southcross Drive W., Dept. SLR516-02,

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WEAR THIS TO THAT

Date Night in NOLA Editor-at-Large Jenna Bush Hager goes out on the town with her husband

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BY JENNA BUSH HAGER PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBBIE CAPONETTO

STYLING: SHANNON GINI

NEW ORLEANS, with its historic architecture, winding streets, and soulful jazz on every corner, is a romantic city. A few years ago, my husband, Henry, and I spent a weekend there. We strolled the Garden District, wandered the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, and ate late-night beignets at Café Du Monde. This Valentine’s Day, even if we don’t make it to the Big Easy, we’ve promised to dress up and enjoy dinner together, pretending we’re watching the world go by from a French Quarter balcony. Â

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G U I D E

T O

T H E

S O U T H

N O W

BLUEGRASS GOLD

Bourbon’s New Pioneers Meet the next generation of distillers who are writing another chapter in the history of Kentucky’s native spirit |

PHOTOGRAPHS BY HECTOR MANUEL SANCHEZ

FEBRUARY 2018

BY HANNAH HAYES

FA M I LY A F FA I R JOYCE, BRUCE, AND AUTUMN NETHERY OF JEPTHA CREED

SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

49


TR AV EL & CULTURE

TRAIL TIP Set up base in Louisville, home to a new urban distillery scene and some of the state’s best hotels, like the 21C Museum Hotel and The Seelbach Hilton (which helped inspire The Great Gatsby).

I

T WASN’T long ago that bourbon, the house drink of the South, was considered bottom shelf. After Prohibition, once-prosperous distilleries were left to crumble into Kentucky’s rolling, horsedotted hillsides, while the few that remained concentrated their efforts on small-batch bottles for niche customers. But as Carrie Bradshaw and her vodka cosmos exited the scene, Don Draper entered with his lowball glass of rye whiskey. These days, the state’s master distillers walk into high-profile parties, not just barrel-lined rickhouses, while both American and international visitors drive to rural hollers and walk through downtown Louisville to see where bourbon is made.

50 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

Farm to Fermenter Mother-daughter-owned distillery Jeptha Creed, located on a family farm, uses only heirloom corn grown on the property.

While bourbon’s big names have been rediscovered, new distilleries and experiments at older ones have fermented. Whiskey-making in Kentucky has always been a family affair, but what has been a lineage of deep-seated distilling dynasties now has fresh faces, including teams of husbands and wives, fathers and sons, siblings, longtime friends, and—more recently—mothers and daughters. As they’re all creating their own legacies, established Kentucky institutions like Buffalo Trace Distillery and StitzelWeller Distillery are continuing theirs by adding modern touches to a timehonored craft.

Jeptha Creed S H EL BYV I L L E Founded in 2014

When Autumn Nethery’s parents first brought up the idea of starting a family distillery, there was just one problem. “They approached me about it when I was still underage,” Autumn says with a laugh. But becoming a distiller didn’t strike her as an outlandish concept; her mother, Joyce Nethery, was already an accomplished chemical engineer with 15 years of experience in industrial distilling. Her father, Bruce Nethery, is a farmer who grows heirloom corn, the kind she and her mother decided they


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TR AV EL & CULTURE

High-Tech Tradition Buffalo Trace, the state’s oldest distillery, creates the bourbon of the future using a warehouse that is monitored by computers.

would use to make their own bourbon. high a yield with it, but for us, the To develop her palate, Autumn flavor is worth all the extra stress.” She studied spirit-making at Heriot-Watt points out that Bloody Butcher creates University in Edinburgh, Scotland. a pink mash before it’s distilled. “From when I first started drinking, Jeptha Creed has released a twoyear-old bourbon and plans to have I was already thinking that I wanted its four-year-aged bourbon available to study these flavors and what grains in another year, but visitors will find throw these different tastes,” she says. After her return, she and Joyce built they’ve already distilled their family’s their distillery on the farm their family ethos into the property. “We really has owned for over 250 years. It’s set want people to feel at home here—not near the Jeptha Knob, a cluster of like they’re in a factory,” says Autumn. handsome rolling hills that helped jepthacreed.com inspire the distillery’s name. In the neighboring Buffalo Trace fields, Bruce farms the labor-intensive Distillery selection of corn TRAIL TIP F RA N K FO RT they use; it’s called Don’t set out to Founded in 1792 Bloody Butcher. “The see five or more name comes from On the forested bluffs distilleries in a day. Focus only how the kernels look outside Frankfort, barrels on two or three like blood splattered are still rolled by hand from so you can take on a white butcher warehouses down oxidized the scenic route apron,” says Autumn. copper tracks to narrow, through horse “We may not get as low-ceilinged rickhouses country. 52 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

where they are left to age. But there’s one small, gated building at Buffalo Trace where this antique technique meets modern technology. It’s called Warehouse X. Although it might sound like a locale from a superhero movie, it’s where the state’s oldest continuously operating distillery is using computer-powered monitoring systems to try to re-create something that happened by accident. After a tornado tore through the distillery’s Warehouse C, its roof and walls were ripped apart, but shockingly, the barrels stayed intact. The resulting bourbon developed an unusual flavor after it was exposed to a buffet of harsh elements, from pressure to cold air and


T R AVEL & CULTURE

sunlight. Named the E.H. Taylor, Jr., Warehouse C Tornado Surviving Bourbon, it became a collector’s item. Now, Buffalo Trace’s Warehouse X employs four independent chambers to control the different elements that the barrels of bourbon are exposed to with the goal of discovering the secret formula the tornado distilled. buffalo tracedistillery.com

Hartfield & Co.

too similar to another brand; it didn’t take him long to find a new one. Weeks before, his aunt had dug up information on ancestors with the surname Hartfield, who had also built a distillery after they emigrated from Germany to Kentucky. Buchanan created Hartfield & Co. with hopes of passing it down to his three sons. His 5-year-old has supplied drawings of bourbon bottles and horses that hang in the tasting room, and his middle son is quick to say he wants to

be a distiller when he grows up. On a busy night at Hartfield & Co., you might find Buchanan’s wife, Larissa, with their 1-year-old strapped to her back, working the bar, shaking cocktails and chatting with customers in the mobile lounge, fashioned from a horse trailer. “I wanted to build something our sons might take over if they want to,” says Buchanan. “Mostly, I wanted to show them they can go heart and soul into an idea, and they can build something too.” hartfieldandcompany.com

PAR IS Founded in 2013

While he was waiting for an oil change, with his kids in the back seat, Andrew Buchanan checked his e-mail and found a cease and desist order. The distillery he and his wife had started, the only one in Bourbon County since Prohibition, shared a name considered

Heart and Soul Andrew Buchanan (at right) and his wife, Larissa, started Hartfield & Co. as a family business to be passed down.

55 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


TR AV EL & CULTURE

Kentucky Peerless Distilling LOU I SVILLE Founded in 1881; reopened in 2015

Father-and-son founders Corky and Carson Taylor of Kentucky Peerless Distilling have a lucky number: 50. It refers to the state-assigned DSP (Distilled Spirits Plant) number of the distillery that the Taylors’ ancestors bought in 1889—the 50th distillery in Kentucky. “Most distilleries today are up past 20,000,” says Carson. “We were one of the first families to get our number back.” Inside Kentucky Peerless’ nearly 125-year-old downtown warehouse are the Vendome copper stills, crafted just 15 blocks down the street, used to make their rye whiskey and bourbon. The stills represent another full-circle moment for the distillery. Rob Sherman, a vice-president of Vendome Copper & Brass Works Incorporated, discovered archival documents that detailed how Corky’s great-grandfather Henry Kraver had assisted Elmore Sherman when he started the still company after

Clockwise from bottom left: Castle & Key’s master distiller, Marianne Barnes; the taproom and barrels at Kentucky Peerless Distilling

Prohibition. “We helped them get into business many years ago, and in return, they helped us get in business today,” Carson says. kentuckypeerless.com

Castle & Key F RANK FORT Founded in 2014

Start with the Roman bathhouse-style structure sheltering a spring water well shaped like a keyhole. Then move on to the Windsor Castle-inspired buildings and the tailored, formal gardens designed by Jon Carloftis. It’s hard to believe that a few years ago, Castle & Key was a forgotten shell of itself, collapsing and covered in overgrowth. Two previous owners attempted to resurrect the Old Taylor Distillery after it came close to being stripped of its heart-pine floors and limestone blocks. Then Will Arvin and Wes Murry took over. Four years later, the property looks more like the one Col. E.H. Taylor, Jr., imagined—not just a distillery but a 56 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

TRAIL TIP Not all whiskey can legally be called bourbon, which must be made with at least 51% corn, rye, malted rye, malted barley, or wheat; aged in a new oak barrel; and produced in the United States.

showplace of Kentucky hospitality where he once entertained guests in his signature white suit. What the good colonel might not have imagined was that this distillery would be run by the state’s first female master distiller, Marianne Barnes, and a woman-dominated team. “Restoring the place has been a labor of love for all of us—just getting a feeling for what it was and what it will be,” Barnes says. Although Castle & Key’s bourbon won’t be available until 2019, in the meantime, visitors can sample a line of gins produced with botanicals from the estate’s gardens. castleandkey.com Â


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BEST IN SHOW They weren’t all yellow—dispatches from a competitive Southern daffodil exhibition


The author, Jane Borden, whose grandmother was a talented daffodil competitor and judge, tries to carry the family torch.

61 FEBRUARY 2018


T Daffodils by the Numbers

7,000,000

Flower bulbs blooming annually at Keukenhof, an over-70-acre display garden located in Lisse, Netherlands

1,713

Stems submitted for judging at the 2017 Garden Club of Virginia Daffodil Show

35,000

Number of dollars that the Louise Morris Goodwin Bowl, one of the GCV Daffodil Show trophies, is rumored to be insured for

25,000

Minimum number of registered selections (cultivars) of daffodils

4,000

Minimum number of daffodils grown by show exhibitor Richard Ezell

300

The year, BC, when

Imagine a test tube standing up inside a he day before the 2017 show, the musty-sweet smell of cut little wooden block and containing one cut daffodils filled the Hampton daffodil stem. Now, picture 1,713 of these, Roads Convention Center. The all placed on long black risers in groupings exhibitors hurriedly prepared based on (generally) shape, size, and color. their gardens’ best specimens At the start of competition, everyone must for judging. Above the din of leave the room, save for judges—six teams Virginia accents clanked the sound of a vase of three each—who wander around with hitting the floor. The room gasped—had a clipboards in hand, inspecting every stem prized bloom just been crushed along by pulling their eyeglasses up or down, with its grower’s dream of glory? A voice depending on the prescription. That’s the shouted, “Don’t worry; it was empty!” The busy crowd then Once you win a ribbon, you then returned to work. A daffodil-show exhibitor want the bigger ribbon. Then you in the 1950s, my grandmother want the silver. —LUCY WILSON Louisa Harris Tucker regularly brought home blue ribbons. I inherited a silver-platter prize that was simplest explanation. But, as I learned, the once bestowed on her by the Garden Club real event happens behind the scenes. This GCV show, which is affiliated with of Virginia (GCV). Still, I never thought to ask her what in the world a competitive the American Daffodil Society (ADS), is daffodil show was. So, I went to the annual often the second largest in the nation, next to the ADS national show. The local ADS GCV show to find out. chapter in Virginia—and, for that matter, in Maryland, Tennessee, Georgia, and so on—also hosts an annual daffodil show. Because the flower’s growing season is short, hopeful competitors have been known to attend six shows daffodils are thought to in a span of three weeks. But no other have been introduced local garden club or flower society has The marriage into gardens for the the history and cachet to pull as many anniversary marked first time by the Greeks participants as the GCV does. Ergo, no with daffodils other show gives away as many ribbons. This is good, because that’s why Average number of Years between gardeners come. pennies you’ll pay for a planting a hybrid seed “Once you win a ribbon,” explains bulb of a prize-winning and getting a bloom Lucy Wilson, of Martinsville, Virginia, daffodil selection “you then want the bigger ribbon. Then you want the silver.” In addition to indiNumber of hours the vidual honors, a particularly excellent Percentage of total symptoms of daffodil stem or grower may receive what is trophies won by Karen poisoning can last referred to as a special award. In true Cogar, who was 1 of 91 (so don’t eat them) Virginia fashion, the GCV’s Daffodil exhibitors Show awards are silver: bowls, cups, and trays. Unlike in my grandmother’s Years a daffodil bulb day, winners now keep the perennial Divisions of daffodil can live (definitely species trophies for only a year. longer than you will)

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Ribbons are more economical, which is good because daffodil judges award many of them. “The point is to give out ribbons,” says Anne Donnell Smith, an ADS horticultural judge from Stevenson, Maryland. “If it’s a good class, every entry gets a white ribbon [as honorable mention].” Several of the competitors I interviewed told me they won ribbons at their first show, and then they “got hooked.” Daffodil societies need to retain as many participants as possible. “It’s a shrinking world, an old-fashioned thing,” notes Mitch Carney, another ADS judge, of Boonsboro, Maryland. “If you ever want to feel young in your mid-fifties, join a plant society.” He mentors gardeners in his area, and the ADS sponsors youth-outreach programs as well. Still, even if ribbons are the hook, it’s the community that keeps everyone coming. “People start because they like the flower,” Janet Hickman, the GCV’s daffodil chairman

says, “but most stay because they like the people.” Every year, the gardeners gather excitedly, traveling from cities across the region, to bathe in their shared enthusiasm for these first flowers of spring and in their admiration for each other. As I wandered throughout the room, many of the exhibitors kept grabbing me to introduce me to their friends. “I have been all over the world with fellow daffodil people. We’re like a family,” says Kate Carney of Boonsboro, Maryland (who’s married to Mitch). Daffodils are so easy to show, in fact, that Hickman gave me a few of hers and even opened up a separate class of daffodils for “Demonstration” only. Racing against the clock on the morning of the GCV’s show, Pam Henifin of Hampton, Virginia, helped me prepare three selections—‘Limehurst,’ ‘Vienna Woods,’ and ‘Blushing Lady’—in test tubes. That afternoon, I took home three ribbons: blue, yellow, and red. I’m hooked.

Above: All blue-ribbonwinning stems receive a second round of judging by the entire panel. Below: Upwards of 500 ribbons and awards are given out at the show.


Diagram of a Winner “It was harder to become a daffodil judge than it was to get my master’s degree,” says Karen Cogar of Alexandria, Virginia, only half joking. The process requires holding a membership with the ADS and passing three schools—each composed of classes, written tests, and an identification test. Then you must student-judge three shows, pass an evaluation by accredited judges, and grow at least 100 different selections of daffodils on your own. You must also exhibit daffodils in ADS-approved shows for at least three years and win at least five blue ribbons. All of these requirements need to be completed within a five-year period. Read on for the winning points.

SUBSTANCE AND TEXTURE A fresh flower has a heavy substance and a smooth texture. Flowers are called “crepey” when they pass their prime and become thin, wrinkled, and translucent. “More often than not,” explains Elise Havens, “the judging comes down to which flower is more alive.” PLATONIC IDEAL A specimen must be a good representation of its selection in color, size, and form. CLEAN EDGES The daffodil’s petals and cup are free of any nicks, tears, burns, and misshaped growths. (Burns, when a microarea dries and turns brown, are caused by heat—either from the sun or a too-hot car trunk.) POSE The bloom faces the viewer at a right angle from the stem.

“Sometimes you choose a flower, even though it isn’t in perfect form or condition, but because it’s just so beautiful.” —ELISE HAVENS

PLANE The petals appear as if they’re flat against a sheet of paper (exceptions: if the specimen is from a selection with petals that are supposed to flex away from the cup or with petal edges that are meant to curve in or ripple). STEM A daffodil stem should be straight, neither bowed nor twisted.


The Key Players Growers, showers, and judges: all united by serious enthusiasm for these flowers

Nina Mustard THE FIREBRAND ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS Mustard, of Williamsburg, Virginia, did in her role as GCV president was institute change. To save money and engage the public, the GCV will now host the daffodil show in Richmond each year (it has traditionally traveled to different cities in the state). This and other changes to the rose and lily shows “really made waves,” she says. “I’m still recovering from it.”

Dianne Spence THE BEST IN SHOW

Tory Willis THE YOUNGBLOOD THE CHAIR OF THE JUDGES for the

Daffodil Show (and a Virginia court judge by trade), Willis describes the GCV as a big family.“We’ve watched each other’s children grow up,” she says. She appreciates the chance to befriend women of all ages. Willis supports Mustard’s decision to host the show in Richmond each year. “This will let us grow in a different way,” she says. “We must find new methods to reach the public.” Meanwhile, Karen Cogar opposes this change. She wants the show to travel because she says it breeds “a sharing of ideas and information. If that’s eliminated, then we won’t be as unified.” Willis agrees but says, “I hope we can find a way to make that happen that isn’t such a financial burden.”

Spence, who’s a fourth-generation member of the GCV from Williamsburg, Virginia, took home the top prize for her specimen of ‘Cape Point,’ a gorgeous Division 2 daffodil with a pink cup and white petals. When asked if she wins often, Spence was silent for a moment before saying, with typical Virginia Spence’s humility, “I’ve winning ‘Cape Point’ stem was had lots of hybridized by good luck.” Brian S. Duncan in Northern Ireland.


David Vaughan THE MAN TO BEAT WHILE I CHATTED with a Norfolk

woman, David Vaughan walked by. She leaned toward me and said, “That awful man.” Seeing my shock, she clarified: “No, no, honey, I love him. It’s just that he always wins.” This year, he won two awards and was one of the few men on the makeshift dais.

Lina Huesmann Coates Clark, Jane Vaughan, & Lucy Wilson

THESE SISTERS— Clark (Stuart, Virginia), Vaughan

(Lynchburg, Virginia), and Wilson (Martinsville, Virginia)—are nieces of the late William Pannill, who was a president of the ADS, an honorary member of GCV, and a foremost authority on daffodils. He also hybridized 210 new selections. THE LEGACIES A special class of competition, and its associated award, is given annually in his name. “We have several of his bulbs,” Wilson says. Some of his hybrids are only now coming into bloom. Vaughan’s husband, David (pictured above), caught the daffodil bug too. He’s become such an expert that the Hillside Garden Club invited him to be an honorary member.

THE MISTRESS OF MINIS

Huesmann prefers to work specifically with miniatures (they are exactly what you think they are), which is how she earned her nickname. “I’m from the Philippines, where we don’t have daffodils because they require winterizing. I didn’t know anything about the flowers before I came here,” she says. And now? “I’m crazy about them,” admits Huesmann. To see her mini daffodils better, she is scheduling LASIK eye surgery.

The GCV describes a miniature daffodil as “graceful, with all its parts proportionately small.”

66 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM


Anne Donnell Smith THE GRANDE DAME “THAT WOMAN right there is

a legend,” whispers Claire Mellinger of Earlysville, Virginia, while slyly pointing in the direction of Smith. “She is quite possibly the best judge of all of us,” says Richard Ezell of Gettysburg, Pennsylvania. Smith comes by her status honestly. She is a member of the Maryland Daffodil Society, the oldest one in the country (founded in 1923), and is the daughter of a charter member of the American Daffodil Society (founded in 1954). Still, Smith is down-to-earth. “Daffodil people are not fussy,” she says. Â

“She is quite possibly the best judge of all of us.” —RICHARD EZELL DESCRIBING ANNE DONNELL SMITH


CARBONARA WITH BRAISED LAMB recipe, p. 71


BY

PA I G E G R A N D J E A N PHOTOGRAPHS BY

V I C T O R P R O TA S I O

THE BEAUTY OF SLOW COOKING FOOD STYLING BY

TORIE COX

PROP STYLING BY

K AY E. C L A R K E

Relaxed winter nights call for satisfying no-fuss suppers. Pick your protein of choice, toss in fresh ingredients, and let the slow cooker do the rest


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B ra i s ed Lam b Sh an ks wi t h Pa r me s an - C h i ve G r i ts Bring 2 cups reserved strained cooking liquid to a simmer in a saucepan over medium. Whisk together 1 Tbsp. each cornstarch and water. Whisk cornstarch mixture into cooking liquid; cook until thickened and reduced by half, about 12 minutes. Set sauce aside; keep warm. Whisk 1 cup uncooked stone-ground yellow grits into 4 cups boiling water in a medium saucepan; cook, whisking, until smooth, about 45 seconds. Return to a boil; cover and reduce heat to mediumlow. Cook until tender, 20 minutes. Whisk in 2 1⁄2 oz. finely shredded ParmigianoReggiano cheese, 1⁄4 cup chopped fresh chives, 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, and 2 1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt. Divide grits among 4 bowls. Top each with a Lamb Shank, some sauce, and chopped fresh chives. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 40 MIN.


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STA RT W I T H . . .

LAMB S HANKS Lengthy slow-cooking yields drop-off-the-bone tenderness in every bite. The secret to restaurant-quality results is to select shanks of roughly the same size that have been trimmed of excess fat and the tendons along the bone. Save the braising liquid—it makes an incredible sauce.

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Tbsp. olive oil

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lamb shanks (about 11 oz. each), trimmed

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tsp. kosher salt

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tsp. black pepper

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medium-size yellow onions (about 1 lb.), cut into 1-inch wedges

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large carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces

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garlic cloves, smashed

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1

cup dry red wine cup crushed tomatoes

1 4

cup chicken broth

1

tsp. ground cumin

1. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Sprinkle lamb with salt and pepper. Cook until browned, 3 minutes per side. Remove from skillet. Add onions, carrots, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, 4 minutes. Add red wine; cook, until mostly evaporated, 3 minutes. Transfer to a 6-quart slow cooker. Stir in tomatoes, broth, and cumin. Nestle lamb into tomato mixture. Cover; cook on LOW until very tender, 6 hours. 2. Transfer lamb to a plate. Pour cooking mixture through a wiremesh strainer into a bowl; discard solids. Reserve strained liquid. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 6 HOURS, 30 MIN.

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S heph erd’s Pie Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Add 1 1⁄2 cups each chopped yellow onion and carrots; cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Add 2 Tbsp. tomato paste, 1 Tbsp. chopped rosemary, 2 tsp. each chopped garlic and fresh thyme, 1 1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt, and 3⁄4 tsp. black 2 pepper. Cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add 1⁄2 cup dry red wine; cook until completely evaporated, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with 3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour; cook 1 minute. Gradually add 1 1⁄2 cups beef stock, stirring until completely incorporated. Cook until thickened, 6 to 7 minutes. Stir in 12 oz. shredded Lamb Shank meat and 1 cup thawed frozen green peas. Remove from heat. Stir 1⁄4 cup heavy cream into 1 prepared and warm 24-oz. pkg. mashed potatoes. Spread potatoes over lamb mixture, covering surface completely. Broil on HIGH 6 inches from heat until lightly browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Garnish with chopped fresh flatleaf parsley.

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SERVES 6 - ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 35 MIN.

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C arbon ara w ith Bra ise d La mb Heat 1 Tbsp. olive oil in a skillet over medium, and cook 4 oz. finely diced pancetta until browned, about 3 minutes. Add 4 sliced garlic cloves and 1⁄4 tsp. crushed red pepper; cook until just starting to brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk together 3 large egg yolks, 1 large egg, 1 1⁄2 oz. each finely shredded pecorino Romano cheese and Parmesan cheese,

and 1⁄2 tsp. black pepper in a large bowl. Cook 12 oz. bucatini pasta in salted water according to package directions. Drain; reserving 3 Tbsp. pasta water. Add hot pasta and reserved pasta water to bowl with egg mixture. Toss until cheese is melted and yolks are thickened. Stir in pancetta mixture. Transfer pasta to a serving platter. Top with 8 oz. shredded Lamb Shank meat. Garnish with 1⁄2 oz. finely shredded pecorino Romano cheese and torn fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 30 MIN.

71 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


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STA RT W I T H . . .

T URKEY BREAST Unlike roasting, slow-cooking locks in moisture, creating juicy and flavorful meat. Keep the skin on (it will be removed later) to seal in the herbed butter rub.

fresh sage

cup unsalted butter, softened

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1

Tbsp. chopped fresh thyme

tsp. lemon zest (from 1 lemon)

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2

tsp. finely chopped garlic (from 2 garlic cloves)

Tbsp. kosher salt, divided

1 1⁄2

tsp. black pepper, divided

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2

tsp. chopped fresh rosemary

2

tsp. chopped

1

1 2

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(6 lb.) bone-in, skin-on whole turkey breast cup chicken broth

Stir together butter, thyme, garlic, rosemary, sage, lemon zest, 2 teaspoons of the salt, and 1 teaspoon of the pepper in a medium bowl until well incorporated. Rub butter mixture under turkey skin. Sprinkle outside of turkey with remaining 1 teaspoon salt and 1⁄2 teaspoon pepper. Pour chicken broth in bottom of a 6-quart slow cooker; add turkey, skin side up. Cover and cook on LOW until a thermometer inserted into thickest portion registers 165°F, 4 1⁄2 to 5 hours. Remove turkey; remove skin from turkey, and reserve for later use. SERVES 8 - ACTIVE 10 MIN. - TOTAL 5 HOURS, 10 MIN.

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and 2 Tbsp. each finely diced red onion and chopped fresh chives.

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We d ge Sal a d w i t h Turkey and B l u e C h e es e - B u tter m i l k Dressi n g Whisk together ⁄ cup whole buttermilk, 1 grated garlic clove, 3 Tbsp. each mayonnaise and sour cream, 2 Tbsp. each finely chopped fresh chives and flat-leaf parsley, 1 1⁄2 oz. crumbled blue cheese, 1 1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt, 1⁄2 tsp. black pepper, and 1⁄4 tsp. paprika in a medium bowl. Divide 1 large quartered iceberg lettuce head among 4 plates. Spoon dressing evenly over lettuce. Top evenly with 10 oz. chopped Turkey Breast, 1 cup chopped fresh tomato, 1⁄4 cup crumbled blue cheese, 1 2

72 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 15 MIN.

olive oil in a skillet over medium until it is browned and fat has rendered, about 5 minutes. Remove and discard turkey skin, reserving drippings in skillet. Add 1⁄3 cup minced shallots. Cook until shallots are

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tender, about 2 minutes. Add 1⁄4 cup dry white wine; cook until reduced by half,

Turkey with Shallot-Mustard Sauce and Roasted Potatoes

about 2 minutes. Add 3⁄4 cup chicken broth; ⁄ tsp. kosher salt; and 1 tsp. each coarse-

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grain mustard, Dijon mustard, and chopped Toss 1 lb. halved multicolored fingerling potatoes with 2 Tbsp. olive oil, 2 tsp. chopped garlic, 3⁄4 tsp. kosher salt, and 1⁄2 tsp. black pepper on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake at 375°F until tender, about 25 minutes. Cook reserved skin from Turkey Breast in 1 Tbsp.

thyme. Simmer 2 minutes. Remove skillet from heat; stir in 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter until melted. Serve sauce over sliced Turkey Breast and potatoes. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 45 MIN.


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Kentucky Hot Brown Casserole Cook 12 oz. chopped bacon in a large skillet over medium until crisp, about 12 minutes; remove bacon. Reserve bacon drippings. Toss together 16 oz. cubed thick-cut white bread slices (such as Texas toast), 1⁄2 cup melted unsalted butter, 1 tsp. kosher salt, and 1⁄2 tsp. black pepper on a baking sheet. Bake at 375°F until toasted, about 16 minutes. Whisk together 6 large eggs, 2 cups whole milk, 1 1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt, and 1⁄2 tsp. each black pepper and dry mustard in a large bowl. Add 2 oz. finely shredded Parmesan cheese, 10 oz. chopped Turkey Breast, 1⁄2 cup bacon, 3 Tbsp. bacon drippings, and bread cubes. Pour mixture into a lightly greased 11- x 7-inch baking dish. Bake at 375°F until golden brown and set, about 45 minutes, shielding with foil during last 10 minutes to prevent excess browning, if needed. Whisk together 2 Tbsp. each unsalted butter and all-purpose flour in a small saucepan over medium until smooth, about 1 minute. Gradually whisk in 1 cup whole milk; cook until thickened and mixture just begins to bubble, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat; whisk in 4 oz. finely shredded Parmesan cheese, 1⁄2 tsp. black pepper, and 1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt. Spoon sauce over casserole. Top with 1 cup diced fresh tomatoes, 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, and remaining 1⁄4 cup bacon. SERVES 6 - ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 30 MIN.


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S k i l l e t C h i c ke n Pot P i e wi t h Le e ks a n d M u s h ro o m s Heat 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium. Cook 1 1⁄2 cups each peeled and diced russet potatoes and chopped leeks and 1⁄2 cup chopped carrots until slightly softened, about 8 minutes. Add 8 oz. sliced cremini mushrooms, 2 tsp. each kosher salt and chopped garlic, and 3⁄4 tsp. black pepper. Cook until potatoes and mushrooms are tender, about 8 minutes, adding water, 1 Tbsp. at a time, if vegetables stick to skillet. Stir in 12 oz. shredded, skinless Chicken and 1 cup frozen, thawed green peas; remove from heat. Melt 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a saucepan over medium heat, and whisk in 2 1⁄2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour; cook, whisking constantly, 1 minute. Gradually whisk in 1 1⁄2 cups reserved strained stock (or

chicken broth); cook until thickened, about 6 minutes. Add 1⁄4 cup heavy cream and 1 Tbsp. hot sauce. Stir cream mixture into chicken mixture. Place a thawed 10-inch square puff pastry sheet over filling, letting corners drape over edge of skillet. Brush lightly with egg wash, and cut 3 or 4 slits in top of pastry sheet. Bake at 400°F until golden and bubbly, 20 to 22 minutes. Let stand 15 minutes. SERVES 6 - ACTIVE 35 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 10 MIN.


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CHICKEN A long, low cook time makes the meat ultra tender, and a few minutes under the broiler crisps the skin.

2

Tbsp. olive oil

1

lemon, halved

1

Tbsp. kosher salt

4

garlic cloves

1 1⁄2

tsp. paprika

4

1 1⁄2

tsp. chopped fresh thyme

small yellow onions (about 1 lb.), quartered

1

tsp. black pepper

2

tsp. cayenne pepper

large carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces

2

1

(4 1⁄2-lb.) whole chicken

celery stalks, cut into 2-inch pieces

cup water

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1. Combine first 6 ingredients. Rub mixture on outside and under skin of chicken. Stuff cavity with lemon, garlic, and 4 onion quarters. 2. Place 2 inverted shallow ramekins in a 6-quart slow cooker. Place carrots, celery, and remaining onion quarters around ramekins; add water. Place chicken, breast side up, on ramekins. Cover; cook on HIGH until a thermometer inserted into the breast registers 165°F, 3 1⁄2 hours. Transfer chicken to a cutting board; let rest 15 minutes. 3. Preheat broiler to HIGH with oven rack 6 inches from heat. Remove ramekins. Pour stock mixture through a wire-mesh strainer into a bowl; discard solids. Reserve stock for later use. Cut chicken into 6 pieces. Place, skin side up, on a rimmed baking sheet. Broil until skin is golden and crispy, 4 to 6 minutes. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 3 HOURS, 50 MIN.

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minutes. Add 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice and 2 tsp. fish sauce. Divide 3 cups cooked jasmine rice, 12 oz. sliced Chicken, and curry mixture among 4 bowls. Top with sliced red Fresno chile, basil leaves, and lime wedges.

1 cup shredded red cabbage, 2 Tbsp. chopped scallions, 2 tsp. olive oil, and 1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt. Top bottom halves of 8 split, toasted 2-inch buttermilk biscuits evenly with chicken mixture and red cabbage mixture. Top each with 3 sweet-hot pickle slices; cover with biscuit tops. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 15 MIN.

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SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 35 MIN.

S p i c y Re d C u r r y w i t h C h i c ke n Heat 1 Tbsp. canola oil in a saucepan over medium-low; cook 1⁄4 cup chopped shallot, 1 Tbsp. finely chopped lemongrass, 1 1⁄2 tsp. grated fresh ginger, and 1 tsp. chopped garlic until fragrant, 3 minutes. Add 1⁄4 cup jarred red curry paste; cook 1 minute. Add 1 1⁄2 cups reserved strained stock (or chicken broth), 1 (14-oz.) can coconut cream, and 1⁄2 of a thinly sliced red Fresno chile. Simmer, uncovered, until slightly thickened, 15

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C hi cken Biscuit Sa ndw iche s Whisk together 1⁄4 cup mayonnaise; 1 1⁄2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar; 1⁄2 tsp. black pepper; and 1⁄4 tsp. each hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, kosher salt, garlic powder, and granulated sugar in a large bowl. Add 12 oz. shredded, skinless Chicken; toss to coat. Combine

75 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


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STA RT W I T H . . .

PORK CHOPS The key to slow-cooked pork is choosing the right cut (shoulder blade chops) and brining it.

4

cups warm water

cup granulated sugar

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2

tsp. mustard seeds

1

bay leaf

cup plus 1 1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt, divided

2

(1-inch-thick) bone-in pork shoulder blade chops (about 3 1⁄4 lb. total)

1 3

tsp. black pepper

2

Tbsp. canola oil

2

medium-size yellow onions (about 1 lb.), sliced (about 4 cups)

cup apple cider

3 4

1 2

cup chicken broth

1

Tbsp. coarse-grain mustard

1 4

1. Combine first 4 ingredients and 1 ⁄3 cup of the salt in a large bowl; whisk until salt and sugar dissolve. Add pork chops, submerging completely; cover and chill 1 1 ⁄2 hours. Remove from brine; discard brine. Pat dry, and sprinkle with pepper and remaining 1 1 ⁄2 teaspoons salt. 2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Cook pork chops until browned, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove from skillet. Add onions; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 6 minutes. Add apple cider. Cook until reduced slightly, 2 minutes. Transfer onion mixture to a 6-quart slow cooker; stir in broth and mustard. Place pork chops on top of onion mixture. Cover; cook on LOW until pork is tender, 4 hours. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 5 HOURS, 55 MIN.

76 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

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S l i ced Pork Cho ps wi t h Brown Butte rGolden Raisin Relish Toss 1 lb. peeled sweet potatoes cut into wedges with 2 Tbsp. olive oil, 1 tsp. kosher salt, and 1⁄2 tsp. black pepper. Bake at 450°F until tender, about 25 minutes. Cook 1⁄3 cup unsalted butter in a small skillet over medium until foam subsides and butter is golden brown, about 4 minutes. Immediately transfer butter to a medium bowl. Add 1⁄2 cup golden raisins, 2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar, and 3⁄4 tsp. granulated sugar; stir to dissolve sugar. Let stand 10 minutes. Stir in 1⁄2 cup each chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley and Castelvetrano olives and 2 Tbsp. olive oil. Divide 3 cups cooked couscous among 4 plates; top with sliced Pork Chops and relish, and serve with sweet potatoes. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 40 MIN.

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cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat; whisk in 1⁄4 cup sherry vinegar and 1 Tbsp. honey. Pour dressing over kale mixture; toss gently to coat. Top with pork and 1⁄2 cup candied pecans. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 35 MIN. - TOTAL 35 MIN.

Pork-an d-S have d Ve ge ta ble Sa la d Combine 6 cups torn Lacinato kale, 2 cups shaved multicolored carrots, 1 cup shaved peeled parsnips, and 1 small peeled and thinly sliced golden beet in a large bowl. Cook 8 oz. chopped thick-cut bacon in a large skillet over medium until crisp, about 10 minutes. Remove bacon using a slotted spoon; drain on paper towels, and transfer to bowl with kale mixture. Reserve drippings in a bowl; wipe skillet clean. Cook 12 oz. sliced Pork Chops in 1 Tbsp. drippings over medium-high until browned, about 1 1⁄2 minutes per side. Remove and set aside. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add 1⁄4 cup drippings to skillet (adding olive oil, if needed). Add 1⁄2 cup thinly sliced shallot, 1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt, and 1⁄4 tsp. black pepper;

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Ca ra m el i ze d Onion, Spinach, and Po r k St ra ta

Toss 10 oz. (1-inch) French bread cubes with 3 Tbsp. olive oil, 1 tsp. kosher salt, and 1⁄2 tsp. black pepper. Bake at 375°F until lightly toasted, about 10 minutes. Heat 1 Tbsp. olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-low. Add 4 cups chopped sweet onion and 1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt. Cook until deeply browned, about 30 minutes. Add 3 oz. chopped baby spinach; cook until wilted, about 1 1⁄2 minutes. Cool 15 minutes. Whisk together 6 large eggs, 2 cups whole milk, 2 tsp. kosher salt, and 1⁄2 tsp. each black pepper and dry mustard in a large bowl. Add 10 oz. chopped Pork Chops, 3 oz. shredded Swiss cheese, bread cubes, and onion mixture to egg mixture; stir to combine. Pour into a lightly greased 11- x 7-inch baking dish. Place on a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with 3 oz. shredded Swiss cheese. Bake at 375°F until golden brown and set, about 45 minutes, shielding with foil during last 10 minutes to prevent excess browning, if needed. SERVES 6 - ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 40 MIN.


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Te r i yak i Sal m o n B ow l s wi t h Cr i s py B r u ss el s Sp routs Toss 12 oz. quartered Brussels sprouts with 1 Tbsp. olive oil, 1 tsp. kosher salt, and 1⁄2 tsp. black pepper on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake at 425°F until tender and starting to crisp, 20 to 25 minutes. Heat 1 Tbsp. olive oil in a skillet over medium-high, and cook 6 oz. sliced shiitake mushroom caps and 1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add mushrooms to baking sheet with Brussels sprouts; wipe skillet clean. Cook 1⁄2 cup pineapple juice, 2 Tbsp. soy sauce, 1 Tbsp. brown sugar, and 1 tsp. cornstarch in skillet over medium, whisking constantly, until thickened, about 3 minutes. Brush 1⁄4 cup sauce on about 1 1⁄4 lb. cooked Salmon; sprinkle with 1 tsp. sesame seeds. Place Salmon on baking sheet with mushrooms and Brussels sprouts; broil on HIGH 6 inches from heat until glaze has thickened, about 2 minutes. Divide 3 cups cooked brown rice among 4 bowls. Top evenly with Salmon, Brussels sprouts, mushrooms, and 1 cup matchstick carrots. Drizzle with remaining sauce; serve with lime wedges. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 30 MIN.


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STA RT W I T H . . .

SA L MON Slow-cooking makes for a tender, not-one-bit-dry fillet. Use a fattier variety of salmon like king (Chinook) or Atlantic. Ask the fishmonger for the thickest piece. The parchment paper lining lets you poach and remove the whole fillet. An aromatic lemongrass blend flavors the salmon while elevating it for even cooking.

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Salmon Bagel Sandwiches Combine 4 oz. softened cream cheese, 3 Tbsp. each sliced fresh chives and finely chopped radishes, 2 tsp. chopped fresh dill, 1⁄2 tsp. lemon zest, and 1 1⁄2 tsp. fresh lemon juice. Spread mixture on bottom halves of 4 split bagels with seeds, garlic, and onion (such as everything bagels). Divide 1 cup arugula, 8 oz. flaked Salmon, and 1⁄2 cup each thinly sliced red onion and English cucumber among bagel bottoms; cover with tops. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 15 MIN.

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lemongrass stalks, bruised and cut into 4-inch pieces

1

fennel bulb (about 14 oz.), sliced

4

scallions, halved crosswise

cup water

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(2-lb.) center-cut, skin-on salmon fillet

1

tsp. kosher salt

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C i t ru s-S almo n Sa la d Combine 1⁄4 cup each white wine vinegar and thinly sliced shallots; let stand 5 minutes. Whisk in 1⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, 2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice, 1 tsp. each honey and Dijon mustard, 1⁄2 tsp. each orange zest and kosher

salt, and 1⁄4 tsp. black pepper. Divide 6 oz. torn butter lettuce, 2 cups sliced Belgian endive, 1 1⁄2 cups orange segments, 1 chopped ripe avocado, and 8 oz. flaked Salmon among 4 plates. Drizzle with dressing, and sprinkle with 1⁄4 cup sliced toasted almonds. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 15 MIN.

cup dry white wine

1

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1. Fold a 30- x 18-inch piece of parchment paper in half lengthwise; fold in half again crosswise (short end to short end) to create a 4-layer-thick piece. Place folded parchment in bottom of a 6-quart slow cooker, letting ends extend partially up sides. 2. Place half of lemongrass, fennel, and scallions in an even layer on parchment in slow cooker. Add water and wine. Sprinkle salmon with salt and pepper; place on lemongrass mixture. Top salmon with remaining lemongrass, scallions, and fennel. Cover and cook on HIGH until salmon flakes easily with a fork, 1 to 2 hours. Using parchment paper liner as handles, lift salmon from slow cooker, allowing liquid to drain off. Discard mixture in slow cooker. SERVES 6 - ACTIVE 15 MIN. TOTAL 2 HOURS, 15 MIN.

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BLACK BEANS Soaking dried beans can make them mushy and bland. Instead, slowcook them in broth kicked up with smoky bacon and sautéed aromatics.

1 1 ⁄

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tsp. black pepper

tsp. chopped fresh oregano

lb. dried black beans

1 2

tsp. canola oil

1 2

1

yellow onion, chopped (about 1 3⁄4 cups)

1

red bell pepper, chopped (about 1 cup)

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thick-cut bacon slices, chopped (optional)

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garlic cloves, chopped (about 1 Tbsp.)

1

jalapeño chile, halved lengthwise

6

cups lower-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth

1. Rinse and sort beans. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add onion, bell pepper, and, if desired, bacon. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are tender, about 8 minutes. Add garlic, and cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

tsp. kosher salt

2. Transfer onion mixture to a 6-quart slow cooker; add beans, jalapeño chile, chicken broth, salt, brown sugar, cumin, pepper, and chopped oregano. Cover and cook on LOW until beans are tender, about 6 hours.

1

tsp. light brown sugar

SERVES 6 - ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 6 HOURS,

1

tsp. ground cumin

15 MIN.

1 1⁄2

each patty with 1 Muenster cheese slice; cook until melted. Divide remaining mayonnaise mixture evenly among 4 toasted brioche buns; add 1 patty, 1 butter lettuce leaf, and 2 tomato slices to each bun. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 25 MIN.

2

Bla ck Be a n To sta da s w ith Ma ngo -Avo ca do Sa lsa

1

B l a c k B ean B u rgers w i th C o m e b ac k Sau ce Stir together 3⁄4 cup mayonnaise; 3 Tbsp. sweet chili sauce; 3⁄4 tsp. smoked paprika; and 1 Tbsp. each ketchup, hot sauce, and Worcestershire sauce. Process 1 1⁄2 cups drained Black Beans and 1⁄4 cup mayonnaise mixture in a food processor until smooth, about 10 seconds. Stir together pureed bean mixture, 2 cups drained Black Beans, 1 large beaten egg, 1 1⁄2 cups panko (Japanesestyle breadcrumbs), 2 Tbsp. grated yellow onion, and 1 tsp. kosher salt in a large bowl. Cover and chill mixture 30 minutes. Form bean mixture into 4 (8 oz.) patties; chill

80 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

1

30 minutes. Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high, and cook patties until they’re heated through and a crust forms, about 4 minutes per side. Top

Boil 1⁄2 cup apple cider vinegar; 1⁄4 cup water; and 2 tsp. each granulated sugar and kosher salt in a small saucepan over medium-high until sugar and salt dissolve, 3 to 5 minutes. Pour vinegar mixture over 1 cup thinly sliced red onion in a medium bowl; cover and chill at least 30 minutes. Toss together 1⁄2 cup each jicama matchsticks, chopped mango, and chopped ripe avocado; 2 Tbsp. each finely diced jalapeño chile and fresh cilantro; 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice; 1 tsp. olive oil; and 1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt in a medium bowl. Lightly mash 2 cups drained Black Beans, 1 Tbsp. minced chipotle pepper in adobo sauce, and 1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt; spread mixture on 4 corn tostada shells. Top with mango mixture and 1⁄4 cup pickled red onions. Sprinkle tostadas with 1⁄4 cup crumbled queso fresco (fresh Mexican cheese) and 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro. SERVES 4 - ACTIVE 10 MIN. - TOTAL 40 MIN.


S

3

Sh r i m p, S a u s a ge, a n d Bl a c k B e an Pasta

L

O

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-

C

O

O

K

E

R

C

O

O

K

B

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Heat 1 Tbsp. canola oil in a large skillet over medium-high, and cook 8 oz. diced andouille sausage until browned, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer sausage to a plate. Add 1 Tbsp. canola oil, 1 lb. peeled and deveined large raw shrimp, and 1 tsp. Cajun seasoning to skillet. Cook until shrimp are opaque, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Remove shrimp to plate with sausage. Cook 12 oz. casarecce pasta in salted water according to package directions; drain. Meanwhile, add 1 Tbsp. canola oil; 2 tsp. chopped garlic, 3⁄4 tsp. kosher salt; and 1 cup each chopped yellow onion and red bell pepper to skillet, and cook until tender, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat. Add sausage, shrimp, 1 1⁄2 cups drained and rinsed Black Beans, hot cooked pasta, 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, and 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice. Toss until butter is melted and pasta is evenly coated, about 3 minutes. Garnish with 1⁄4 cup sliced scallions. Â SERVES 6 - ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 25 MIN.

O

K


Through daring moves that bank on contrast and color, designer and artist ALAINA RALPH transformed an empty James Island, South Carolina, ranch into a comfortable and creative work of art

BY

K AT H E R I N E O W E N PHOTOGRAPHS BY

HECTOR MANUEL SANCHEZ STYLING BY

LIZ STRONG

Bold Strokes


DINING ROOM

Play Up Pattern “While this room is not functionally the heart of the house, it is literally the heart because you have to walk through it to get anywhere, so I wanted it to be dramatic,” Ralph says. She thought that bright white paired with any deep, dark color would fill the bill. That’s when she found the Cowtan & Tout Malachite velvet fabric in Emerald for the curtains. Once she decided on that, everything else in the room fell into place—including the bold wallpaper (Eden; weitzner limited.com). The white part is the lacelike paper, and the wall behind it is painted in Benjamin Moore’s Erin Green (608).

Ralph went one shade darker for painting the trim, using Benjamin Moore’s Garden Cucumber (644).


Blank canvases don’t scare Alaina Ralph—not even a 4,200-square-foot one handed to her by a young and quickly growing family in need of a house to call home. Such was the case when she agreed to decorate this rambling 1954 ranch in James Island, South Carolina. The house was in healthy shape, but it was lacking any sense of personality. Its new inhabitants wanted it to be “playful, comfortable, and (above all) livable,” Ralph says. “The home needed to hold up not only to muddy paws but also to children with markers in hand.” Luckily, the interior designer is also handy with a paint palette, thanks to her background as an artist. (She studied painting during her undergraduate years and is now sought after for her whimsical oil portraits of people and pets.) So she took a cue from her artistic training and set out to infuse the sprawling property with character and thoughtful personal touches. Read on for Ralph’s brilliant and bold decorating moves—from her graphic pattern choices to her dramatic color palette. 84 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

Ralph grounded the cream walls (Benjamin Moore’s Seapearl, OC-19) with a berry- and coral-colored vintage kilim rug.


FAMILY ROOM

Reflect Light with White What is now the family room was once a porch. From the windows to the couches, Ralph embraced the space’s connection to the outdoors. She emphasized three walls of tall windows (a rare feature for lowslung ranch houses) by dressing them in unlined, sheer curtains to capitalize on the light pouring through. She had the sofas built extra deep to maximize comfort and outfitted them in indoor/outdoor fabric (Tisket Tasket in Sea Salt; perennialsfabrics.com). “If we were going to be daring enough to go with a cream fabric in the family room, it had to be a material that could easily be bleached,” adds Ralph.

85 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


ENTRY HALL

Step Up the Floors Ralph says there wasn’t a lot of opportunity to add color, texture, or personality in this entry hall because the space is only so big. She took every chance she got here—including painting the floors. When it comes to taking the plunge with painted floors, Ralph says the decorating move isn’t as permanent as it seems. “The paint will wear off over time, and I think that only adds to the character of the house,” she notes. “You can always paint over it. So if you get tired of it, you can change it.”

Ralph used Benjamin Moore’s Dove Wing (OC-18) and North Creek Brown (1001) to paint the checkerboard pattern.


“I broke up the monotony of blue by pulling in patterns in different shades.” —ALAINA RALPH

Benjamin Moore’s Summer Nights (777) coats the walls. The sofa’s fabric is an indoor/ outdoor velvet by Halsey & Spruce.

DEN

Stick with a Monochromatic Palette First, Ralph rounded up the family’s collection of fishing-tournament awards—all saturated aquatic paintings—to create a gallery feeling in the den. Then she covered the walls and sofa in a shade pulled straight from the large piece of artwork in the center. Matching the sofa to the wall color was the key to preventing it from overwhelming the room. “I knew the sofa would take up a lot of space because we wanted a nice, deep spot for the whole family to pile on,” Ralph explains. “I broke up the monotony of blue by pulling in patterns in different shades. I think you can be a little less reverent about the color combination if the scale is right.”

87 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


“Each space had to have its own personality. I wanted the home to feel like a youthful, whimsical family lives here.” —ALAINA RALPH

The rustic side table was made by a local tree-care company (clemmonstreecare .com) that turns cut wood into furniture.

LIVING ROOM

Create Unlikely Combinations In the living room, Ralph set out to design a more formal space for entertaining while maintaining a playful, unstuffy spirit. “Everything needed to work together, but each space had to have its own personality,” Ralph says. “I wanted the home to feel like a youthful, whimsical family lives here.” She proved that color, pattern, and texture can work in a formal space by combining them all. Chairs with velvet slipcovers rest next to a burned-wood side table. Pillows covered in perky fabrics enliven the stately Empire sofa, and crisp white trim painted in Benjamin Moore’s White Dove (OC-17) frames a warm burlap wallpaper from Schumacher.

88 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM


MASTER BEDROOM

Warm Up with Texture The homeowners wanted a restful retreat in the master bedroom, where Ralph proved that bold doesn’t have to mean loud. “I tried to tone down the contrast a little,” she says. “The blue is certainly still vibrant, but it feels more neutral and serene in the setting.” The designer then added layer after layer to bring in more personality and warmth. She topped a muted natural-blend rug with a furry flokati one, covered the walls in a textural Phillip Jeffries grass cloth, and freed up valuable real estate on the bedside tables by mounting swing-arm sconces from Circa Lighting above them. Â

“We wanted something geometric and textured, so the rug is actually made of both sisal and wool,” Ralph says. “That way, when you step on it, it still feels really soft.”


By

Sheri Castle Photographs by

Victor Protasio Prop styling by

Kay E. Clarke Food styling by

Ana Kelly

A League of Their Own Five incredible desserts that celebrate two beloved things in the South: citrus season and Junior League cookbooks

90 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


Florida Orange Grove Pie The Gasparilla Cookbook TAMPA, FLORIDA

This is a great old-timey angel pie with a crust made of baked meringue instead of pastry. In a state where orange groves still cover miles of farmland, of course a cook would turn to citrus to pile atop the crisp candy-like crust. Originally published in 1961, The Gasparilla Cookbook exhibits the melding of Spanish, Italian, Greek, Cuban, and Southern inďŹ&#x201A;uences on the recipes of the region. It appears in the McIlhenny Hall of Fame for community cookbooks that sell more than 100,000 copies. (recipe, page 97)

91 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


J

unior Leagues are fixtures of the Southern social and civic scene, throwing great parties and orchestrating some of the most formidable fund-raising endeavors in the country. For at least 50 years, one of the most effective methods of raising money was through the creation of a cookbook that cataloged and celebrated the food of a community. Compared to a simple black-and-white, comb-bound paperback from a small-town volunteer fire department, a Junior League cookbook looks more like a bookstore best seller. With fetching hardback covers, tested recipes, edited text, and color photographs, some of these publications are as much at home on a coffee table as they are on a kitchen counter. Junior League cookbooks, especially the vintage volumes, memorialize a sense of time and place. The best ones enshrine these women and the worlds they lived in. If a cookbook hails from your hometown, it’s a part of that community’s history. If it has your mother’s name in it, it’s a family heirloom. Of course, the recipes are usually fabulous, because what league member would deign to share a bland or boring dish? We combed through iconic Junior League cookbooks and chose five desserts that showcase this year’s fresh crop of winter citrus. Like all of the other recipes featured in the pages of this magazine, they had to pass muster in our own Test Kitchen. Not surprisingly, each one earned rave reviews, although we couldn’t resist adding a few of our own twists here and there. A classic Junior League cookbook does plenty of good in ways beyond what we usually consider community service. It fills the gaps in our recollections and renditions of cherished dishes on our family tables, rekindling old culinary flames and reminding us to pass along our treasured food memories.

92 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


Lemon-Orange Pound Cake Stop and Smell the Rosemary HOUSTON, TEXAS

Stop and Smell the Rosemary was a sea change in community cookbooks, even among Junior League versions, raising the bar for self-published titles across the nation. Since it ďŹ rst appeared in 1996, it has received numerous awards and accolades for being one of the best community cookbooks in the country. It includes a recipe for Lemon-Orange Pound Cake, which is sublime in its simplicity, but we decided to fancy it up a bit with a Bundt pan and two contrasting icings. (recipe, page 97)

93 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


Cold Lemon Soufflés with Wine Sauce A Sterling Collection MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE

Soufflés have always been an expression of elegant entertaining, but this one is chilled and held in place with a bit of gelatin, which means the hostess doesn’t have to rush the quivering creation to the table before it collapses. A Sterling Collection is a compilation of favorite recipes gleaned from a number of cookbooks produced by the Memphis chapter. This soufflé also appeared in an anthology of best Junior League recipes in the country, so it’s a keeper for sure. (recipe, page 99)

94 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


Grand Marnier Cakes Tea-Time at the Masters AUGUSTA, GEORGIA

Layer cakes might be the cover girls, but a pound cake holds sway in our kitchens. This recipe reďŹ&#x201A;ects the Southern practice of adding a bit of liqueur or other spirits to a cake to ensure it stays moist and delicious. Many cookbook collectors swear by this beloved book that debuted in 1977, suggesting that an Augusta tee time is prestigious but an Augusta teatime is priceless. While the original recipe called for the cake to be baked in a tube pan, we opted for mini Bundt pans for a tea party-worthy presentation. (recipe, page 98)

95 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


Shaker Lemon Pie Mountain Measures CHARLESTON, WEST VIRGINIA

This old-fashioned pie is made with thinly sliced whole lemonsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;peels and all. The recipe originated in Shaker communities in areas where the South meets New England and the Midwest. Shaker cooks considered lemons an important part of a healthy diet, even though they were expensive and hard to come by, so they devised this pie to make use of every bit of the fruit. The Charleston, West Virginia, Junior League included this Shaker Lemon Pie in its 1974 Mountain Measures cookbook, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been a favorite of bakers ever since. (recipe, page 98)

96 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


THE RECIPES

“HEY, WHEATS UP!”

Savor citrus season with these company-worthy desserts

Lemon-Orange Pound Cake

pan; smooth top. Bake in preheated oven until a wooden pick inserted in the center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Cool in pan on a wire rack 10 minutes; remove from pan, and cool completely on rack, 30 to 40 minutes.

ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 2 HOURS, 35 MIN. SERVES 10 TO 12|

CAKE

2 cups granulated sugar ⁄

cup unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing pan

cup vegetable shortening

1 2

1 2

4. Prepare the Vanilla Icing: Whisk together powdered sugar, milk, and vanilla extract in a bowl until smooth. Drizzle icing over Cake, letting it drip down sides. Refrigerate 10 minutes to allow icing to set.

6 large eggs 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for pan

5. Prepare the Lemon-Orange Icing: Whisk together powdered sugar, fresh lemon and orange juices, and yellow food coloring gel in a bowl until smooth. Drizzle Lemon-Orange Icing over Vanilla Icing, letting it drip down sides. Let stand until set, about 20 minutes. Garnish with thin lemon or orange slices, if desired.

1 1⁄2 tsp. baking powder ⁄

tsp. salt

tsp. baking soda

1 2 1 2

1 cup whole buttermilk 1 tsp. vanilla extract 1 tsp. lemon extract VANILLA ICING

2 cups powdered sugar 3 Tbsp. whole milk ⁄

1 4

tsp. vanilla extract

Florida Orange Grove Pie

LEMON-ORANGE ICING

ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 4 HOURS, 30 MIN.

2 cups powdered sugar

SERVES 6 TO 8|

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. fresh orange juice

4 large egg whites

1 drop yellow food coloring gel

1 4

ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

tsp. cream of tartar

1 1⁄2 cups granulated sugar, divided

Thin lemon or orange slices, optional

5 Tbsp. finely chopped walnuts 5 large egg yolks

1. Prepare the Cake: Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a 12-cup Bundt pan.

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon) ⁄

1 8

2. Beat sugar, butter, and shortening in a large bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy, 5 to 6 minutes. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition.

tsp. salt

3 Tbsp. orange zest, divided (from 1 large orange) 2 cups heavy cream 2 Tbsp. powdered sugar 1 (20-oz.) jar refrigerated mandarin orange segments (such as Del Monte), drained, divided

3. Whisk together flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda in a bowl. Alternately add flour mixture and buttermilk to butter mixture in 5 additions, beginning and ending with flour, beating until blended after each addition. Beat in vanilla and lemon extracts. Transfer batter to prepared

1. Preheat oven to 275°F. Beat egg whites with an electric mixer on medium speed until foamy, about 1 minute; beat in cream of tartar.

97 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018

FROSTED SWEET.

CRUNCHY WHEAT. FEED YOUR

INNER KID


“CHECK OUT MY SWEET CANNON-BOWL!”

Increase speed to high, and beat until medium peaks form, about 2 minutes. Add 1 cup of the granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat on high speed until stiff peaks form, about 2 to 3 minutes.

a shallow bowl; let stand until lemon slices are juicy, 4 hours or overnight. Remove any seeds that float to the surface.

2. Spread meringue on bottom and up sides of a 9-inch glass or ceramic pie plate coated with cooking spray. Sprinkle chopped walnuts over edge of meringue, lightly pressing to adhere. Bake in preheated oven until lightly browned, about 1 hour. Cool completely on a wire rack, about 30 minutes.

3. Line a 9-inch pie plate with 1 piecrust. Pour lemon mixture into shell. Cover with top crust, and crimp edges. Cut decorative steam vents in top crust.

2. Preheat oven to 450°F. Stir eggs into lemon mixture thoroughly.

4. Bake at 450°F for 15 minutes. Without removing pie from oven, reduce temperature to 350°F. Bake until a knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Cover piecrust edges with aluminum foil, if becoming too brown. Serve pie warm or at room temperature. Top slices with vanilla ice cream, if desired.

3. Whisk together egg yolks, lemon juice, salt, 2 1⁄2 tablespoons of the zest, and remaining 1⁄2 cup granulated sugar in the top of a double boiler. Cook over simmering water, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens, about 8 to 10 minutes. Place top of double boiler in a bowl of ice water, and let stand, stirring occasionally, until completely chilled, about 20 minutes. Transfer mixture to a medium bowl.

Grand Marnier Cakes ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR SERVES 12|

4. Beat cream and powdered sugar with electric mixer on high speed until medium peaks form, about 3 to 4 minutes.

CAKES

2 1⁄2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for pan

5. Stir 1⁄2 cup of the whipped cream into egg-citrus mixture. Gently fold 1 cup of the whipped cream into egg-citrus mixture. Gently fold 1 cup of the mandarin orange segments into mixture. Transfer to prepared meringue pie shell, smoothing top. Mound remaining whipped cream on top of pie, making a well in the center. Arrange remaining orange segments on top center of pie. Sprinkle with remaining 1⁄2 tablespoon orange zest. Chill 2 to 3 hours before serving.

1 1⁄2 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. baking soda ⁄

1 4

tsp. salt

1 1⁄4 cups granulated sugar 1 cup salted butter, plus more for pan 3 large eggs 1 cup sour cream 2 Tbsp. orange zest (from 1 large orange) ⁄

1 2

cup finely chopped roasted blanched almonds GLAZE

CRUNCHY WHEAT. FEED YOUR

INNER KID

cup granulated sugar

cup orange liqueur (such as Grand Marnier)

cup fresh orange juice (from 1 large orange)

1 2

ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 4 HOURS, 55 MIN.

FROSTED SWEET.

1 2

Shaker Lemon Pie SERVES 6 TO 8|

1 4

2 lemons (about 9 oz. each), sliced paper thin (rind and all)

ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

2 cups granulated sugar

1 cup heavy cream

4 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 Tbsp. powdered sugar

1 (14.1-oz.) pkg. refrigerated piecrusts (such as Pillsbury)

Orange segments (such as blood orange, navel, or mandarin)

Vanilla ice cream, optional

1. Combine lemon slices and sugar in

1. Prepare the Cakes: Preheat oven

98 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


to 325°F. Grease and flour 12 mini Bundt pans.

1 2

1 tsp. grated lemon zest plus 3 Tbsp. fresh juice (from 1 lemon) and more zest for topping, optional

2. Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. 3. Beat sugar and butter with an electric mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy, 4 to 5 minutes. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. 4. Add flour mixture and sour cream to sugar mixture in 5 additions, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Add orange zest and almonds, and beat on medium speed until combined. 5. Divide batter evenly among prepared Bundt pans, and smooth tops. Bake in preheated oven until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 16 to 18 minutes. Let stand in pans on a wire rack 10 minutes; remove from pans to wire rack. 6. Prepare the Glaze: Combine sugar, orange liqueur, and orange juice in a small saucepan; bring to a boil over medium, stirring constantly until sugar dissolves. Brush hot Glaze over warm Cakes. 7. Beat heavy cream and powdered sugar with electric mixer on high speed until medium peaks form, about 3 to 4 minutes. Top each of the glazed Cakes with a dollop of whipped cream, and garnish with orange segments.

Cold Lemon Soufflés with Wine Sauce ACTIVE 55 MIN. - TOTAL 3 HOURS, 15 MIN. SERVES 8|

SOUFFLÉS

1 (1⁄4-oz.) envelope unflavored gelatin ⁄

1 4

cup cold water

5 large eggs, separated 2 tsp. grated lemon zest plus 3⁄4 cup fresh juice (from about 5 lemons) 1 1⁄2 cups granulated sugar, divided 1 cup heavy cream WINE SAUCE

1 2

cup granulated sugar

1 Tbsp. cornstarch

cup water

2 Tbsp. salted butter ⁄

1 2

cup dry white wine

1. Prepare the Soufflés: Sprinkle gelatin over cold water in a small bowl. Let stand 5 minutes. 2. Combine egg yolks, lemon zest, lemon juice, and 3⁄4 cup of the sugar in top of a double boiler over boiling water. Cook, stirring constantly, until lemon mixture is slightly thickened, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove pan from heat, and stir in gelatin until completely combined and smooth. Transfer mixture to a large bowl. Place bowl in an ice bath, and let stand, stirring occasionally until mixture has cooled, about 15 minutes. Thoroughly clean top of double boiler.

“CRUNCH ATTACK!”

3. Combine egg whites and remaining ⁄ cup granulated sugar in top of double boiler over simmering water; cook, stirring constantly, until sugar dissolves and mixture is hot, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer into a medium bowl, and beat with an electric mixer on high speed until medium peaks form, 7 to 8 minutes. 34

4. Beat cream with electric mixer on high speed until medium peaks form, 3 to 4 minutes. 5. Gently fold egg white mixture into yolk mixture. Gently fold whipped cream into egg mixture. Divide Soufflé mixture evenly among 8 (8-ounce) ramekins or dessert glasses. Cover and chill 2 hours or overnight. 6. Prepare the Wine Sauce: Whisk together sugar and cornstarch in a small saucepan. Stir in water, lemon zest, and lemon juice until smooth. Bring to a boil over medium-high; reduce heat to medium, and cook until thickened, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in salted butter until melted and combined; stir in dry white wine. Cover and chill until ready to serve. Drizzle Wine Sauce over Soufflés, and sprinkle with lemon zest, if desired. Â

FROSTED SWEET.

CRUNCHY WHEAT. FEED YOUR

INNER KID


Pulled, chopped, or sliced, pork butt is the foundation of Southern barbecue. We’ve traveled to some of the Barbecue Belt’s best restaurants and smokehouses to get the pros’ secrets for making delicious BBQ at home. Because no ‘cue plate is complete without “all the fixin’s,” we include lots of patronsanctioned sides and desserts too. One thing is for certain… this book will change the way you cook, smoke, grill, and eat, but be warned: Your own butt may suffer in the process.

The South’s Best Butts is now available wherever books and eBooks are sold.

©2017 Time Inc. Books. SOUTHERN LIVING is a trademark of Time Inc. Lifestyle Group, registered in the U.S. and other countries.


O F

S O U T H E R N

C O O K I N G

Cuban Black Beanand-Yellow Rice Bowls, recipe, page 102

QUICK FIX

Super Bowls Our game plan for beating the weeknight rush? Whip up wholesome, hearty dinners that will please everyone around the table PHOTOGRAPHS BY GREG DUPREE

FEBRUARY 2018

S E C R E T S

101 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

RECIPES: KAREN RANKIN; PROP STYLING: MINDI SHAPIRO LEVINE; FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX

T H E


TIP

THE S L KITC HE N

Plantains are ready to use when their peels turn black on the outside, so buy them black or let them ripen before cooking. Many grocery stores sell heat-andserve frozen plantains too.

Cuban Black Bean-and-Yellow Rice Bowls Brighten up dinnertime with this colorful, customizable meal. Start with bowls filled with rice, black beans, and plantains, and then let everyone add their favorite toppings. ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 50 MIN. |SERVES 4|

1 1⁄4 cups chopped red onion (from 1 onion), divided 2 (16-oz.) cans seasoned black beans, drained (do not rinse) ⁄

1 4

cup water

1 tsp. ground cumin 4 radishes (about 3 oz.), chopped 1 ripe avocado, diced ⁄

1 4

cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 lime, quartered 2 ripe plantains, peeled and diagonally sliced 1⁄2 inch thick (about 1 lb.) 2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided 1 (10-oz.) pkg. yellow rice 1 small jalapeño chile, seeded and finely chopped (about 1 Tbsp.)

102 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place plantain slices in a single layer on parchment; drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the oil, and sprinkle with 1⁄2 teaspoon of the salt. Roast in preheated oven until

lightly browned and very tender, 16 to 18 minutes. Set aside. 2. Prepare rice according to package directions. 3. While rice and plantains cook, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a saucepan over medium. Add jalapeño and 1 cup of the red onion; cook, stirring often, until tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in black beans, water, cumin, and remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon salt; cook until liquid is slightly reduced, 5 to 6 minutes. 4. Divide cooked rice evenly among 4 bowls. Top each with beans, roasted plantains, chopped radishes, and diced avocado. Sprinkle with chopped cilantro and remaining 1⁄4 cup red onion. Serve with lime wedges.


Can you guess what’s hidden in my “The broccoli cheddar soup you love broccoli cheddar soup? now(Hint: has ait’s nutritious twist.” nutritious.)

INTRODUCING O, THAT’S GOOD!

Broccoli Cheddar with a twist of butternut squash

Butternut Squash with a twist of carrots & sweet potato

Baked Potato with a twist of cauliflower

Tomato Basil with a twist of celery & carrots

Learn more about these delicious soups (and sides!) at othatsgood.com Look for them in the refrigerated section.


TIP

THE S L KITC HE N

Before seasoning the shrimp, pat them dry with paper towels to help them form a nice crust in the skillet.

Soba Noodle-and-Shrimp Bowls

1 2

tsp. kosher salt

Buckwheat flour gives soba noodles an earthy, nutty flavor that is a great match for shrimp. Rinse the noodles when you drain them to remove any excess starch, which can cause them to stick together.

1 2

tsp. black pepper

tsp. garlic powder

ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL 35 MIN. |SERVES 4|

1 2

2 Tbsp. canola oil, divided 1 1⁄2 cups matchstick carrots 1 1⁄2 cups snow peas (about 4 oz.) ⁄

1 2

cup thinly sliced red onion (from 1 small onion) Chopped fresh cilantro (optional)

1 (8-oz.) pkg. soba noodles 3 Tbsp. rice vinegar 3 Tbsp. sesame oil 3 Tbsp. soy sauce 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar 1 Tbsp. Sriracha chili sauce 1 1⁄2 lb. large peeled and deveined raw shrimp

104 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

1. Cook noodles according to package directions; drain and chill until ready to serve. Whisk together rice vinegar, sesame oil, soy sauce, brown sugar, and Sriracha in a bowl; set aside. 2. Pat shrimp dry with paper towels; sprinkle evenly with salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Heat 1 tablespoon of

the oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh. Add shrimp; cook, stirring often, until slightly crispy and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer shrimp to a plate, and cover with aluminum foil to keep warm. 3. Wipe skillet clean, and add remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add carrots, snow peas, and red onion; cook over medium-high, stirring often, until vegetables are tendercrisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat, and toss with 3 tablespoons of the vinegar mixture. 4. Toss chilled noodles with 1⁄4 cup of the vinegar mixture; divide evenly among 4 bowls. Top each with vegetable mixture and shrimp. Sprinkle with cilantro, if desired, and serve with the remaining vinegar mixture.


TIP Fresh tarragon in the vinaigrette brings out the anise notes in the fennel, but you can substitute fresh thyme or rosemary if you prefer a milder flavor.

Pork-and-Farro Bowl with Warm Brussels Sprouts-Fennel Salad We paired a warm vegetable salad with whole-grain farro and pork tenderloin for a healthy meal that’s still hearty. ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 55 MIN. |SERVES 4|

2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 2 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. honey 6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided 1 ⁄

1 4

34

tsp. kosher salt, divided tsp. black pepper, divided

1 (1-lb.) pork tenderloin 1 cup quick-cooking farro

12 oz. Brussels sprouts, thinly sliced (about 4 cups) 1 fennel bulb (about 6 oz.), thinly sliced (about 2 1⁄2 cups), fronds torn and reserved for garnish 2 Tbsp. thinly sliced shallot (from 1 medium shallot) 1 medium Fuji apple, chopped

1. Whisk together vinegar, tarragon, mustard, honey, 4 tablespoons of the oil, 1⁄2 teaspoon of the salt, and 1⁄4 teaspoon of the pepper in a small bowl. 2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Sprinkle 1⁄2 teaspoon of the salt and remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon pepper on all sides of the pork. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil to skillet; swirl to coat. Place pork in skillet, and cook,

turning to brown on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet; place in preheated oven. Cook until a thermometer inserted in thickest portion registers 145°F, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board; let rest 10 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, prepare farro according to package directions. Drain; stir together farro and 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette. 4. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Add Brussels sprouts, fennel, shallots, and remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring, until wilted, 5 to 6 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette; toss to coat. 5. Slice pork. Divide farro, Brussels sprouts mixture, and pork evenly among 4 bowls. Top with apple; drizzle with remaining vinaigrette. Garnish with fennel fronds.

105 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


TIP Five minutes should be plenty of time for the cauliflower rice to cook. Make sure it’s tender, not mushy or al dente; taste it to check for doneness.

Skirt Steak and Cauliflower Rice with Red Pepper Sauce No longer just a trend, cauliflower “rice” crumbles can be found in many grocery stores. They make a tasty (and low-carb) substitute for grains. ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 40 MIN. |SERVES 4|

2 1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt, divided 1 lb. skirt steak ⁄

1 2

tsp. black pepper

2 scallions 2 (1-lb.) pkg. riced cauliflower or 7 cups crumbles from 1 (2 1⁄2-lb.) head cauliflower ⁄

1 4

cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 cups arugula (about 2 oz.) ⁄

34

cup sliced roasted red bell pepper

2 Tbsp. chopped shallot 1 Tbsp. seeded, chopped red Fresno chile (from 1 chile) 1 tsp. minced garlic ⁄

1 2

tsp. paprika

1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. red wine vinegar, divided 6 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. olive oil, divided

106 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

1. Combine roasted bell pepper, shallot, chile, garlic, paprika, 1 tablespoon of the vinegar, 2 tablespoons of the oil, and 1⁄2 teaspoon of the salt in a food processor. Process until smooth, stopping to scrape down sides of the bowl, if needed. 2. Pat steak dry; sprinkle both sides with pepper and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large cast-iron

skillet over high. Add steak to skillet; cook to desired degree of doneness, 4 to 5 minutes per side for medium. Transfer to a cutting board; let rest 10 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, chop scallions, keeping white and green parts separate. Wipe skillet clean. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in skillet over high. Add white scallion parts; cook, stirring often, until slightly softened, 2 minutes. Add riced cauliflower and remaining 1 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring often, until cauliflower is tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in parsley. 4. Whisk together remaining 1 teaspoon each of oil and vinegar in a bowl. Add arugula; toss to coat. Cut steak across the grain into thin slices. 5. Divide cauliflower rice evenly among 4 bowls; top with steak, arugula, and sauce. Sprinkle with green scallion parts.


T H E SL KI TC H EN

TIP Short on time? Try baby carrots, which come ready to roast—there’s no chopping or peeling required.

Couscous Pilaf with Roasted Carrots, Chicken, and Feta Flavored with golden raisins, toasted almonds, and an ingeniously simple lemon-brown butter sauce, this fluffy couscous is delicious on its own, but roasted carrots and chicken turn it into a memorable one-bowl meal. ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 5 MIN. |SERVES 4|

4 large carrots, peeled and diagonally sliced 1⁄4 inch thick (about 12 oz.) 1 Tbsp. olive oil ⁄

1 4

tsp. black pepper

1 tsp. kosher salt, divided ⁄

1 2

cup butter

2 tsp. lemon zest, plus 1⁄4 cup fresh juice (from 1 large lemon), divided

1 1⁄2 cups water 1 cup uncooked couscous ⁄

cup golden raisins

cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish

cup toasted sliced almonds

1 2 1 3

1 4

2 cups shredded rotisserie chicken, warmed (about 12 oz., from 1 chicken) 2 oz. feta cheese, crumbled (about 1⁄2 cup)

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Combine carrots, oil, pepper, and 1⁄2 teaspoon of the salt on a large rimmed baking sheet. Toss to coat; spread in an even layer. Bake in preheated oven until tender, 16 to 18 minutes, stirring once. Remove from oven. 2. While carrots roast, melt butter in a

small saucepan over medium-high. Cook until milk solids turn golden brown and have a nutty fragrance, swirling pan occasionally as mixture bubbles, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl; let stand 1 minute. Stir in lemon juice; set aside. 3. Bring water and remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon salt to a boil in a medium saucepan over high. Stir in couscous. Cover and remove from heat; let stand 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork; stir in raisins, parsley, almonds, and 5 tablespoons of the browned butter mixture. 4. Combine carrots, chicken, and 2 tablespoons of the browned butter mixture in a bowl; toss to coat. Divide couscous pilaf evenly among 4 bowls; top with chicken-carrot mixture. Sprinkle with cheese; drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon browned butter mixture. Top with lemon zest and parsley. Â

107 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re Invited Now, What Can You Bring?

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Now Available wherever books and eBooks are sold ©2017 Time Inc. Books. SOUTHERN LIVING is a trademark of Time Inc. Lifestyle Group, registered in the U.S. and other countries.

Elizabeth Heiskell (aka The Debutante Farmer) was born and raised in the Mississippi Delta and is a regular contributor to the TODAY show


T H E SL KI TC H EN

SOUTHERN CLASSIC

The Mystery of Hummingbird Cake Forty years later, we have yet to untangle the story behind our most popular three-layer dessert | PHOTOGRAPHS BY VICTOR

PROTASIO

RECIPE: PAM LOLLEY; PROP STYLING: KAY E. CLARKE; FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX

BY KATHLEEN PURVIS

109 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


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THE SL KITC HEN

CHICKEN AND HUMMINGBIRD WAFFLES WITH BANANA-BOURBON SYRUP

IT’S HARD TO TELL the story of Southern food sometimes. Our recipe boxes are littered with half-truths, sort-of-remembered details, and threats of “I’d tell you, but I’d have to kill you.” Red velvet cake isn’t Southern—it started as Waldorf Astoria cake. The backstory: Someone got charged a mint for the hotel’s recipe and then shared it for revenge. It’s the forerunner to the notorious Neiman Marcus cookie recipe, which isn’t from the Dallasbased department store either. Notice a pattern here? This leads us to the Hummingbird Cake, which was first submitted to Southern Living in 1978 by Mrs. L.H. Wiggins of Greensboro, North Carolina, and has become the magazine’s most popular recipe since. Indisputably, it is a beautiful cake: three layers flavored with canned pineapple and bananas and topped with Cream Cheese Frosting. The oil-and-egg batter is simply stirred together, skipping the creaming business and creating a moist cake that keeps well. And who can resist that name? Dig deeper, though, and the story doesn’t hum smoothly. Only a little is known about Mrs. Wiggins: She was a widow from Virginia who evidently worked as a housemother at The University of North Carolina at Greensboro, and she died in 1995 at the age of 81. But we don’t really know much more beyond that. Carl Wilson of the Greensboro News & Record recalls the paper running a story in 2014 asking for anyone who knew her, but they didn’t get a single reply. He says, “The mystery of Mrs. L.H. Wiggins still remains.” Then there’s the cake itself. Mrs. Wiggins may have been the first to

create a layered version, but she wasn’t the first to make the cake. It started as a tube cake with no icing. Simple spiced cakes with canned pineapple and bananas popped up in community cookbooks throughout the early 20th century, when these once-exotic fruits became more commonplace in grocery stores. The recipes usually sported names like A Cake that Lasts (most likely because it stayed moist and kept well) or Bird of Paradise Cake. Helen Moore, the former food editor of The Charlotte Observer, ran a version of the dessert on September 7, 1969, noting, “I came across a recipe called Doctor Bird Cake.” She also explained that the doctorbird is a nickname given to the swallow-tailed hummingbird, Jamaica’s national bird. The cake was baked in an 8-inch tube pan, and it included undrained, canned crushed pineapple; diced bananas; and no frosting. In 1980, Moore repeated the recipe, this time explaining that it came in a letter from a Jamaican airline, apparently part of a press packet promoting island trips. In this version, though, the tube pan had grown to 10 inches, the bananas were mashed instead of sliced, the batter included 2 cups of chopped nuts, and the cake now had a rich cream cheese frosting. Here we are, 40 years later but no closer to the truth. Was the cake’s origin really Jamaican, or was it a convenient recipe that sounded somewhat tropical? Mrs. Wiggins flitted into our lives and moved on quickly, just like hummingbirds in the summertime. She left us with a nice cake, though. That’s plenty to remember her by.

WAFFLES

4 large eggs 2 cups buttermilk 1/4 cup brown sugar 1/2 tsp. cream of tartar 2 cups all-purpose flour 3 tsp. baking soda 1/2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. ground cinnamon

3/4 cup chopped pecans 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 1 tsp. vanilla extract Cooking spray 2 lb hot Publix Deli chicken tenders

BANANA-BOURBON SYRUP

2 large bananas, sliced 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter 3 Tbsp. bourbon 1 cup maple syrup

1 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

STEPS 1. Prepare waffles. Preheat waffle iron following manufacture’s instructions. 2. Separate egg yolks from whites, placing each in separate bowls. Whisk egg yolks, buttermilk, and brown sugar until blended. Beat egg whites and cream of tartar with hand (or stand) mixer on high speed until stiff peaks form. 3. Combine flour, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon; stir in egg yolk mixture, pecans, melted butter, and vanilla until blended. Gently fold egg whites into batter until thoroughly combined. 4. Coat waffle iron with spray. Pour 3/4 cup batter into waffle iron; cook 3–4 minutes or until crisp and fluffy. Repeat with remaining batter. Cover waffles to keep warm. 5. Prepare syrup. Slice bananas into 1/2-inch-thick coins. Place butter in a large, nonstick sauté pan on medium to melt. Add banana slices in single layer when butter is frothy; cook 2 minutes or until golden. Flip bananas over and cook 1 more minute, then transfer banana slices to a plate. Repeat with remaining banana slices if needed. 6. Remove pan from heat; add bourbon, then return to heat and let simmer 1 minute. Add syrup, vanilla, and cinnamon; cook 2–3 minutes or until syrup is hot, then add bananas. Top each waffle with two chicken tenders and drizzle with banana-bourbon syrup; serve. Total Time - 35 minutes. Makes 6 servings. TRY MORE OF THESE

HUMMINGBIRD CAKE-INSPIRED RECIPES FROM PUBLIX. publix.com/hummingbird

111 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


T H E SL KI TC H EN

INGREDIENTS FOR SUCCESS

Hummingbird Cake ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 2 HOURS |SERVES 12|

VEGETABLE OIL This cake gets its moist, quickbread-like texture from vegetable oil instead of butter.

CAKE LAYERS

3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for pans 2 cups granulated sugar 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. baking soda

CANNED PINEAPPLE Do not drain the juice; it adds flavor to the cake batter and keeps it moist.

1 tsp. ground cinnamon 3 large eggs, beaten 1 1⁄2 cups vegetable 1 1⁄2 tsp. vanilla extract 1 (8-oz.) can crushed

BANANAS Pick out a ripe but not overripe bunch (look for brown flecks on the skin).

1 cup chopped

(about 6 bananas) toasted

Vegetable shortening CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

2 PECANS Toast the nuts for the most flavor.

in juice, undrained

2 cups chopped ripe

(8-oz.) pkg. cream cheese, softened

1 cup salted butter or margarine, softened 2 (16-oz.) pkg. powdered sugar 2 tsp. vanilla extract ADDITIONAL INGREDIENT

34

cup pecan halves, toasted

1. Prepare the Cake Layers: Preheat oven to 350°F. Whisk together flour, sugar, salt, baking soda, and cinnamon in a large bowl; add eggs and oil, stirring just until dry ingredients are moistened. Stir in vanilla, pineapple, bananas, and toasted pecans. 2. Divide batter evenly among 3 well-greased (with shortening) and floured 9-inch round cake pans.

For a fancy finish, gently press ½ cup chopped toasted pecans around the sides of the frosted layer cake.

3. Bake in preheated oven until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool in pans on wire racks 10 minutes. Remove from pans to wire racks, and cool completely, about 1 hour. 4. Prepare the Cream Cheese Frosting: Beat cream cheese and butter with an electric mixer on mediumlow speed until smooth. Gradually add powdered sugar, beating at low speed until blended after each addition. Stir in vanilla. Increase speed to medium-high, and beat until fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes. 5. Assemble cake: Place 1 Cake Layer on a serving platter; spread top with 1 cup of the frosting. Top with second layer, and spread with 1 cup frosting. Top with third layer, and spread remaining frosting over top and sides of cake. Arrange pecan halves on top of cake.

Hummingbird Pecan Pie with Banana Whipped Cream; Hummingbird Salad; and The Hummingbird (cocktail).

112 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM


Our classic cake recipe makes two dozen cupcakes. Top them with sparkling pineapple wedges.

Hummingbird Cupcakes

Candied Pineapple Wedges

ACTIVE 20 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 10 MIN.

ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 15 MIN.

|MAKES 24 CUPCAKES|

|MAKES 24 WEDGES|

Prepare batter for Cake Layers as directed in Step 1. Place 24 paper baking cups in 2 (12-cup) standardsize muffin pans. Spoon batter into prepared cups, filling about threefourths full. Bake at 350°F until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from pans to wire racks, and cool completely, about 30 minutes. Prepare Cream Cheese Frosting as directed in Step 4, and pipe or spread onto cupcakes. Garnish with Candied Pineapple Wedges, if desired.

Slice 6 candied dried pineapple rings into 4 wedges each. Microwave 1⁄4 cup light corn syrup in a small microwavable bowl on HIGH until warm, about 10 seconds. Brush wedges with warm corn syrup, and sprinkle with desired amount of yellow sparkling sugar and pale yellow sanding sugar. Use immediately. Â

Hummingbird Cheesecake and Hummingbird Cake Pops.

UMMINGBIRD HHOSPITALITY The Southern traditions you’ve been missing are only a home-cooked recipe away. Try these hummingbird cake-inspired dishes from Publix. FOR RECIPES AND DETAILS

publix.com/hummingbird

113 SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / FEBRUARY 2018


THE SL KITC HE N

For topping potato skins with neat dollops of sour cream, use a ziplock plastic bag with one corner snipped off.

4 oz. sharp Cheddar cheese, shredded (about 1 cup) 6 bacon slices, cooked and crumbled ⁄

1 2

cup sour cream

2 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives

2. Slice potatoes in half lengthwise, and scoop out potato flesh, leaving 1⁄8-inch-thick shell. Reserve potato flesh for another use (such as mashed potatoes).

Mini Potato Skins These appetizers were made to travel. To take them to a party, prepare the recipe through Step 3 and place potato skins in a container. Complete Step 4 before serving.

WHAT CAN I BRING?

Game Day Potatoes Kick off the Super Bowl with these crowd-pleasing one-bite appetizers PHOTOGRAPH BY GREG DUPREE

114 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

ACTIVE 30 MIN. TOTAL 1 HOUR, 45 MIN. |SERVES 20|

1–1 1⁄2 lb. Baby Dutch Yellow potatoes (about 20 [2-inch] potatoes) 1 Tbsp. olive oil

3. Increase oven temperature to 450°F. Place potato skins, hollowed side down, on baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake at 450°F for 10 minutes; flip potatoes over, and bake until crispy, 8 to 10 minutes longer. 4. Fill potato skins evenly with Cheddar cheese, and top with bacon crumbles. Bake at 450°F until cheese melts, 1 to 2 minutes. Top each potato skin with a dollop of sour cream, and sprinkle evenly with chopped fresh chives. Â

RECIPE: MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN; FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Scrub potatoes, and pat dry thoroughly. Place potatoes in a large bowl, and drizzle with olive oil; toss to coat. Arrange potatoes in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake in preheated oven until tender, 17 to 20 minutes. Cool potatoes completely on baking sheet, about 30 minutes.


N E D S I N C E 1 9 0 8 I LY O W FA M

CELEBRATE GENERATIONS OF GOODNESS FROM OUR KITCHEN TO YOURS.

BUSH’S® Chicken Tortilla Soup Recipe created for BUSH’S® Beans. Ingredients: 2 cans (16 oz.) BUSH’S® Pinto Beans 2 lbs. chicken, cooked & shredded 1 can (15 oz.) whole tomatoes, mashed & undrained 1 can (10 oz.) enchilada sauce 1 medium onion, chopped 1 can (4 oz.) green chilies, diced 2 cloves garlic, chopped 8 cups chicken broth 1 pkg. (1.25 oz.) original taco seasoning 1 pkg. (10 oz.) frozen corn 2 tbsp. fresh cilantro, chopped tortilla chips

Preparation Time: 15 minutes Cooking Time: 30 minutes Total Time: 45 minutes Servings: 8 Directions: 1. Combine all ingredients except cilantro & tortilla chips in a large 5 qt. stock pot. 2. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to med-low & simmer for 30 minutes or until onions are translucent & flavors blended.* 3. Serve with cilantro and tortilla chips. * Alternate cooking method: Cover & cook 3-4 hours on low in a slow cooker.

FOR MORE RECIPES

BUSHBEANS.COM


THE S L KITC HE N

A ribbon of Praline-Cream Cheese Filling runs through this sweet bread.

SAVE ROOM

The King of Cakes Our resident queen of confections, Pam Lolley, puts a new twist on this celebratory dessert PHOTOGRAPH BY GREG DUPREE

Praline-Cream Cheese King Cakes ACTIVE 45 MIN. - TOTAL 5 HOURS |MAKES 2 CAKES|

DOUGH

1 (16-oz.) container sour cream ⁄

1 4

cup butter

1 3

cup plus 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar, divided

2 (1⁄4-oz.) envelopes active dry yeast ⁄

1 2

cup warm water (100°F to 110°F)

2 large eggs, lightly beaten 6 3⁄4 cups bread flour, divided PRALINE-CREAM CHEESE FILLING

2 (8-oz.) pkg. cream cheese, softened ⁄

cup granulated sugar

cup packed dark brown sugar

1 2 1 4

2 tsp. ground cinnamon 2 tsp. vanilla extract 1 large egg 1 cup finely chopped toasted pecans, divided CREAMY VANILLA GLAZE

3 cups (about 12 oz.) powdered sugar 3 Tbsp. butter, melted 2 tsp. vanilla extract 3–4 Tbsp. whole milk ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

Purple, green, and gold/yellow sparkling sugars

1. Prepare the Dough: Combine sour cream, butter, salt, and 1⁄3 cup of the sugar in a

116 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

saucepan over medium-low. Cook, stirring, until butter melts, 5 minutes. Remove from heat; cool to 100°F to 110°F, 15 minutes. 2. Stir together yeast, water, and remaining 1 tablespoon granulated sugar in a 1-cup glass measuring cup; let stand 5 minutes. 3. Combine sour cream mixture, yeast mixture, 2 eggs, and 2 cups of the flour in the bowl of a heavy-duty electric stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment. Beat at medium speed until smooth, 1 minute. Reduce speed to low; gradually add 4 cups of the flour, beating until Dough forms. 4. Turn out onto a surface dusted with 1⁄4 cup of the flour. Knead, gradually adding remaining 1⁄2 cup flour, 2 tablespoons at a time, until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. (It should be tacky but release easily from surface.) Place in a well-greased bowl; turn to grease top. Cover; let rise in a warm place (85°F) until doubled in bulk, 45 minutes to 1 hour. 5. Meanwhile, prepare the Praline-Cream Cheese Filling: Beat cream cheese, sugars, cinnamon, and vanilla with an electric mixer on medium speed until smooth. Beat in egg.

6. Prepare the baked cakes: Gently punch Dough down; divide in half. On a lightly floured surface, roll 1 portion into a 22- x 12-inch rectangle (keep remaining portion covered). Spread half of the filling over rectangle, leaving a 1-inch border. Sprinkle with 1⁄2 cup of the pecans. Starting at 1 long side, carefully roll up rectangle in a jelly-roll fashion. Place, seam side down, on a large parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Bring ends of roll together to form a ring. Moisten ends with water; pinch together to seal. Repeat with second portion and remaining filling and pecans. Cover; let rise in a warm place (85°F) until doubled in bulk, 45 minutes to 1 hour. 7. Preheat oven to 350°F. Uncover Dough rings, and bake in preheated oven until deep golden brown and done, about 25 minutes. Cool cakes completely on pans set on wire racks, about 1 1⁄2 hours. 8. Prepare the Creamy Vanilla Glaze: Stir together powdered sugar, melted butter, and vanilla. Stir in 3 tablespoons milk. Add additional milk, 1 teaspoon at a time, until pourable but still opaque. Pour evenly over cakes; sprinkle with sparkling sugars, alternating colors to form bands. Â

RECIPE: PAM LOLLEY; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN; FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER

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T I P S

A N D

T R I C K S

F R O M

T H E

S O U T H ’ S

M O S T

T R U S T E D

K I T C H E N

S L O W- C O O K E R E D ITION

MAKE AHEAD

Prep Freezer Meals Like a Pro Three steps for planning ahead and stocking up

1

TRIMMINGS IN THE FREEZER TO MAKE A DELICIOUS STOCK.

KNOW-HOW

Homemade Stock, Simplified The easiest way to make flavorful stock is with your slow cooker VEGETABLES

Use trimmings and scraps from potatoes, onions, celery, carrots, and other veggies. Be sure they are clean and still fresh. Toss in peppercorns, herb sprigs, and garlic cloves to give the stock complexity.

CHICKEN

Roasted bones make a darker, richer stock than raw bones. Use collagen-rich chicken wings for a robust flavor and texture. The stock will congeal when chilled but will liquefy when heated.

118 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

2 Prepare the ingredients (such as raw proteins and vegetables, seasonings, etc.) according to the recipe, and place them in the bag. Don’t freeze fresh herbs, pasta, dairy products, or grains like rice.

BEEF

Acidity helps break down the bones; tomato paste, red wine, and red wine vinegar are best for beef. Meaty bones make great stock. Reserve any bits of slow-cooked beef for soups, stews, and pastas.

3 Let out as much air as possible from each bag, and then flatten them so they can be stacked in the freezer. Defrost bags in the refrigerator before adding the contents to the slow cooker. Â

GREG DUPREE; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN; FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER

S T O R E V E G E TA B L E

Label a ziplock plastic freezer bag with a waterproof marker. Include the recipe name, date, and cooking instructions. Note anything that should be added later, like grated cheese.


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Thrill of the Hunt There’s no place better than a good thrift store by

R I C K B R AG G ILLUSTRATION BY JOHN CUNEO

M

Y MOTHER SHELTERS in place in February. She thinks that if she can hole up for 28 days, she will survive the bone-chilling harshness of an Alabama winter till the buttercups push their way out into the glory of spring. Leap year is, in her eyes, just mean. I try to lure her outside with treats, kind of like we used to do with her beloved old dog, Gizzard. But unlike Gizzard, who would run through a wall at the mere possibility of a scrap of bologna, she’s not easily bamboozled. “How about we go get us some catfish?” I ask.

120 FEBRUARY 2018 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM

“Hon,” she says, “they’re saying on Channel 6 that it might snow.” Not unless God Himself floats over and sprays us with a can of starch, I think. Only one thing will get her out of her comfortable chair, there beside the glowing fireplace. “Wanna hit the thrift store?” I ask. The next sound you’ll hear will be the banging of the screened door, loud as a pistol shot. She’ll be sitting in the passenger seat, buckled in, by the time I find the car keys. My family loves going to the thrift store, and we frequent about 14 of them on a regular basis. I guess we’re afraid we’ll miss something. Life does not

change much from day to day at the mall; what they have on a Tuesday, they’ll have on Wednesday. But every day at a thrift store is a whole, big, new world of possibility. It all depends on whim, on chance—or, as Mama says, “what the rich people get tired of.” I started going to them because my mother, no matter how much her life has changed, will always be a child of the Depression, a survivor of the foothills of the Appalachians. Dollar General, to her, might as well be Saks Fifth Avenue. In the thrift store, she can buy a pair of khakis for $2, more or less. She can find a nice jacket for $3. She is loyal to the stores in northeastern Alabama but admits there is a special thrill in the ones on the Gulf Coast. “Them rich folks,” she explained, “throw away some nice stuff.” She used to like a good antiques/ junk store, too, till last year. She got tired as she was perusing the long rows of an antiques mall in Daphne, Alabama, and sat in a chair with a “do not sit” sign, which was obviously meant for other people. As I circled back to her minutes later, I saw her motioning to me, almost frantic. “Ricky,” she whispered, “that man over there is starin’ at me.” “Who?” I asked. “That man,” she said, pointing. There was no one there, except a life-size terra-cotta statue of a Chinese soldier. “How long has he been lookin’ at you?” I asked. “Since I sat down,” she said. The cataract surgery might not have been as successful as we had hoped. So, in this slowly dying winter, we will stick to the thrift store. The selection may not be as good, but at least we know the coatrack is unlikely to flirt with her and the shoe bin will not ask for her phone number. Â


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