Apparel Magazine | Issue 2 2022 by Review Publishing Ltd

$ 10.95

VOL 55 I NO 2

END TO END LOGISTIC SOLUTIONS YOU CAN TRUST

NOT JUST APPAREL - APPAREL LINE DOES IT ALL •Homewares •Manchester •Footwear •Accessories •Shop fittings •Bulk consignments

fashionable reads

editor's note

Anna: The Biography

By Amy Odell This definitive biography of Anna Wintour follows the steep climb of an ambitious young woman who would—with singular and legendary focus—become one of the most powerful people in media. As a child, Anna Wintour was a tomboy with no apparent interest in clothing but, seduced by the miniskirts and bob haircuts of swinging 1960s London, she grew into a fashion-obsessed teenager. Her father, an influential newspaper editor, loomed large in her life, and once he decided she should become editor-in-chief of Vogue, she never looked back.

Fashion, Identity, Image

MAILCHIMP MUST-DO'S I have had enough of seeing the Mailchimp logo on almost every single brand newsletter. So I'm going to help you get rid of it once and for all. Are you ready? Go to the footer when you are editing the newsletter. Look at the very last line of code and it should say *|IF:REWARDS|* *|HTML:REWARDS|* *|END:IF|*

Go ahead and delete it. It's that simple. Why is it important to delete? Why should you care? Branding. You are ruining the illusion by leaving it in. You have crafted a newsletter and the last thing you want your audience to see is another brand. It's an advert and not for your brand. Every aspect of your newsletter should serve a purpose. Every image should be hyperlinked to the exact garment and colourway. Everything should be easy to read, easy to click through because we're all lazy deep down and drowning in endless newsletters. Want us to click? Want us to engage? Be bold. Make a statement. Have something to say. The worst thing you can do is put out newsletters on a constant weekly basis if you have nothing to say. Wait until you have something juicy to share with your customers, don't put out a newsletter

because you always do, make it count. Building a loyal army, big or small, is crucial but having them consistently reading and clicking is even better. I highly recommend checking your campaign report the following day. If you have always sent your newsletter at the same time, try sending it on different days and times to see when your best open rate is. If you have been sending them sporadically then see when your best open rate was. Check the time and day. Do your next newsletter at that time and see if you get the same results. Then work on what time and day are best for your audience and train them to open your newsletter at that time every week. They will eagerly expect it and engage. Which is what we all want.

behind APPAREL...

PUBLISHER ADMIN/SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR CONTENT MANAGER GRAPHIC DESIGN TEAM

Tania Walters Kieran Mitchell Sarah Mitchell Caitlan Mitchell Caroline Boe Raymund Sarmiento Debby Wei

ISSN 1171-2287 (Print) ISSN 2744-5976 (Online) Retail 6, 2 Ruskin Street, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 304 0142 Email: edit@reviewmags.com This magazine is published monthly under license. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to Review Publishing Co Ltd. This magazine is a platform for the industry and may include content that expresses views and opinions by contributing writers. Content is attributed to the author, and these opinions and the view/s are those of the author/s. They do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of any other agency, organisation, employer or company. The opinions and material published in this edition are not necessarily those of the publishers unless expressly stated. All material appearing in the magazine, website and social media platforms is copyright and may only be reproduced with the written consent of the publisher. Copyright 2022

By Paul Jobling, Philippa Nesbitt, Angelene Wong How has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-themillennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020. Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015.

The Fashion Yearbook 2022: Best of campaigns, editorials and covers By Julia Zirpel, Fiona Hayes The fashion world is creative, expressive, impressive, and is always fast moving. The Fashion Yearbook 2022 is a beautifully illustrated book showcasing the best fashion series and photos from the international fashion scene of 2021. A jury of international experts like Donald Schneider (former art director of French Vogue and creative mind of the H&M designer collaborations), or Masha Fedorova (former editor-in-chief of Russian Vogue and Glamour), have selected the best editorials, covers and campaigns to feature in this must-have volume. The creative people behind it, such as photographers, stylists, Models and make-up artists are also presented here in detail.

The Fundamentals of Digital Fashion Marketing

By Clare Harris, Karen Edwards, Donna Watts The Fundamentals of Digital Fashion Marketing uses industry examples, including Burberry and creative agency ODD, to demonstrate how creative digital marketing practices can build vibrant, loyal communities.

fast five

FROM THE COVER | NOT JUST APPAREL ANYMORE

Having experienced significant growth every year, purely through word of mouth from satisfied customers, Apparel Line is now offering more services to a variety of retailers. The business concept for Apparel Line first came into fruition in the 1980’s when the original Apparel Line was

started by Maria Jinx. Apparel Line as it is now, was reborn in 1995, and the company quickly discovered that no one in the industry actually offered a daily service throughout New Zealand for transporting hanging apparel. Having been continually disappointed by other service providers, Apparel Line decided

it could do a better job at providing a competitive and reliable service in this industry. Since then, Apparel Line has grown from strength to strength in both hanging transport and in standard carton and satchel courier services, and now offers further delivery services including shop fittings, homewares, Manchester, footwear, accessories, and bulk consignments. “We get approached weekly by new retailers speaking of our high standard of services at competitive rates, along with the drop in standards and rate increases, from our competitors in both the courier and bulk transport fields,” noted Wendy Haresnape, Director, Apparel Line. Apparel Line provides excellence in transportation and delivery in the courier market, from a team who understood the intricacies of delivery in retail, with its deadlines and protocols. Contact one of the friendly Apparel Line Customer Services Representatives today to discuss your requirements.

TAYLOR WINS BEST CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE AWARD Taylor Boutique is the 2022 winner for Best Customer Experience at the NewmarketNZ Business Awards. "At taylor, we live and work by a set of important guidelines, one of which being that 'our clients are our purpose'. We constantly strive to provide a warm, genuine, friendly experience for our taylor friends and family so we are incredibly honoured and humbled to be recognised for this award." READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

GOVERNMENT BOOSTS DIGITAL SKILLS FOR OVER 30,000 SMES More than 30,000 small businesses have participated in Government-funded digital training, which supports businesses to take advantage of digital tools and new opportunities through e-commerce, Minister for Small Business Stuart Nash announced today. “Over the last two years, many business owners had no option but to move to digital platforms in order to continue to generate revenue and meet the changing expectations of their customers. However, for large numbers of SME owners and operators, there were not easily accessible tools that allowed this transformation to take place. We decided early on that we needed to fill this educational gap in the market, so we set a target of backing 30,000 small businesses to undergo digital training. It’s great that we’ve hit this milestone ahead of schedule,” said Nash. READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

PURE LONDON SHOWCASES SICILIAN FASHION DESIGNERS

TOM FORD’S NEW ATTACHÉ | GONG YOO

Pure London, the UK’s leading trade fashion buying event which takes over Olympia London from the 17th – 19th July 2022, has announced the participation of Regione Siciliana with a showcase of Sicilian fashion designers, artisans, and brands showing in the UK for the first time. Many young Sicilian fashion designers are rediscovering the value of craftsmanship and will use Pure London as a springboard to showcase their creations. READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

Tom Ford Beauty is pleased to announce the appointment of Gong Yoo as TOM FORD BEAUTY Attaché for Asia-Pacific. Gong Yoo is an acclaimed South Korean actor in both television and film. He began his career in 2003 and shot to international fame with Train to Busan in 2016. He has been nominated for numerous acting awards and received a prestigious "Baeksang Art Award" for Best Actor in 2017. Gong Yoo continues to lend his talents to both Korean and international films, the most recent being Netflix's The Silent Sea. READ THE FULL STORY ONLINE

www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

apparel meets

In 2012, two best friends, David Greenblo and Neil Midalia embarked on a journey to launch a new sustainable basics brand named Boody. With the vision of creating sustainable change in fashion culture, its garments are crafted from organically grown and ethically sourced bamboo, designed for pure comfort.

oday, the business is succeeded by their sons, Shaun Greenblo and Elliot Midalia, who continue to “champion a future fit for all, one sustainable essential at a time.” As the co-managing directors, Greenblo and Midalia oversee the Boody business together. Greenblo’s experience lies in operations and technology, whilst Midalia’s lies in the world of eCommerce and marketing. It was their collective hunger to push for sustainable change that motivated them to join the family business on its mission to offer sustainable alternatives for everyday essentials. Sustainability is a crucial driver of innovation that constantly inspires Boody to explore new routes of sustainability within its practices. “Keeping sustainable thinking at the centre of everything we do inspires us to constantly innovate while keeping people and the planet top of mind,” said Greenblo and Midalia.

The fashion industry is among the most polluting on the planet and is also one of the largest consumers of the world’s water supply. “Our planet can’t keep up with this demand, and neither can our people with a lack of quality work environment.” Hence, Boody aims to encourage a greener wardrobe made from sustainable and mindful processes to help protect the environment. Boody adopts a holistic approach to sustainability and crafts all its garments from bamboo. According to Greenblo and Midalia, bamboo is the fastest growing and most adaptable plant globally. In the absence of pesticides, insecticides and fertilisers the bamboo is naturally organic and does not require chemicals to thrive. “Its fibre uses a non-toxic, closed-loop system, resulting in a silky-soft weave that’s soft on your skin and gentle on our planet.” The brand’s most recent innovation features the Lyolyte range crafted from

a new fabric made from a sustainable fabric process named Lyocell. “After the bamboo is harvested in FSC certified fields, the bamboo is cut into small pieces and ground into a pulp. This pulp is then dissolved by non-toxic chemicals and what remains is raw cellulose. At this stage of the process, the raw cellulose is pushed through spinnerets and the bright white Lyocell fibres then emerge. These fibres are then spun into yarn which is eventually woven into fabric.” Every piece in the collection is crafted from FSC certified bamboo Lyocell and uses half as much water compared to cotton. The first product Boody ever debuted was its signature organic bamboo underwear. At Boody, sustainability is incorporated into every facet of its design and business choices, from using soft plastic bins in the office to encouraging communities to have a more minimal approach to their wardrobe. Its factories also use advanced computer knitting machines

to manufacture seamless garments and minimize fabric wastage. In support of building a more sustainable global economy, Boody has partnered up with activists to push for real, long-term impact. One% of Boody’s annual sales are donated to environmental causes committed to creating a healthy planet through One% for the Planet. And a further ten% of all online beanie sales are donated to the Chris O’Brien Lifehouse, a non-profit hospital and research institute devoted to reshaping cancer care. To round out Boody's philanthropic activities, together with its official charity partner, Thread Together, new clothing is distributed to the homeless, unemployed, victims of domestic violence, and more, in Australia. Through its offerings of high-quality, simple everyday basics in a sustainable fashion, Boody aims to educate consumers and create a positive impact on our future. www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

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What Is The Metaverse And What Does It Mean For Retail? Everything you wanted to know but too scared to Google

A term first coined by Neal Stephenson in his 1992 dystopian sci-fi novel, Snow Crash. What does the metaverse look like in modern society, and why is everyone talking about it? In less than five minutes, we give you all the information you need to know in digestible terms and then outline the early adopters in this space.

THE BEGINNERS GUIDE TO THE METAVERSE What is the metaverse? The metaverse takes a 2D screen and turns it into a 3D digital environment through a combination of augmented reality (AR), virtual reality (VR) and video. People can then carry out daily tasks, such as working or socializing, like avatars in a digital world. Does one company own the metaverse? No, think of the metaverse as more of a concept. As a way of coining the term

and trying to become a leader in the space, Facebook recently rebranded to Meta. What is the difference between virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality (AR)? An immersive experience, VR is a three-dimensional, computergenerated environment that users can discover by wearing a headset or glasses. AR is a digital overlay that gets projected onto the real world and is brought to life on your digital screen. For example, through filters on your phone.

THE KEY PLAYERS In retail - Roksanda In collaboration with the Institute of Digital Fashion and Clearpay, the brand has released an NFT of the designer's final look at LFW. The virtual replica will be available to try on via Instagram filter, and will be the first NFT to be sold on a luxury site in pounds versus cryptocurrency.

PacSun The Pac Mall Rats series launched with three non-fungible tokens, each representing the brand's LA retail spaces, available for auction on Open Sea with bids starting at $200. Each buyer will receive a physical clothing item that depicts the purchased NFT. Over time, the retailer plans to launch a further 300 unique NFTs.

Prada Its first NFTs with adidas, Project Resource invites its collective following to co-create a large-scale digital artwork. The NFT will be auctioned on the digital art marketplace SuperRare and displayed in flagship stores. The luxury brand is also partnered with French gaming company Ubisoft on its popular winter sports game to dress characters and offer branded sports gear. Players can outfit their characters in Prada's Linea Rossa sportswear line, made especially for the game.

Gucci The luxury brand has collaborated with the virtual creator on Supergucci, a limited series of CryptoJanky NFTs and ceramic sculptures. Gucci also bought a plot of land on virtual real estate

platform, The Sandbox. The project will sit under the brand's Gucci Vault concept that houses all of its metaverse projects.

drop every week.

Gap Releasing its first NFTs with Frank Ape's artist Sines, Gap Inc's limited edition release is available in four different categories: "Common," "Rare," "Epic" and "One of a Kind." Fans collecting the brand's hoodie digital art at Common and Rare levels have the opportunity to purchase limited-edition digital art by Frank Ape, and a physical Gap x Frank Ape hoodie made from recycled materials.

Zara Alongside the launch of the physical AZ Collection in collaboration with the South Korean label Ader Error, users can also purchase digital versions for their avatars in the metaverse on the ZEPETO platform.

Adidas Titled Into the Metaverse, adidas launched its first NFT collection as a mix of digital and physical pieces produced with collaborators Bored Ape Yacht Club, Punks Comic and gmoney. Costing 0.2 Ethereum (approximately $765), the drop made $23mn in minutes after launch. Digital items are usable within the Ethereum-based metaverse game The Sandbox, where adidas has also acquired a plot of virtual land that it plans to fill with "exclusive content and experiences."

Ralph Lauren Until January 3rd, users can browse and try on gender-neutral digital clothing in virtual Polo Shops on Roblox. Ranging from 150 to 200 Robux coins, the limited-edition items allow users to customize their avatar. Visitors can also interact socially within the world and enjoy ice skating, drinking hot chocolate and roasting marshmallows. In addition, gamers can unlock various accessories via a treasure hunt, while bonus items

Stefan Cooke The London Central Saint Martins' graduate has partnered with EA video game, The Sims, to create a 23-piece Modern Menswear pack that players can buy for £4.99 for virtual use.

Jordan Brand The brand has reunited with the popular gaming platform to launch new virtual outfits, as well as an interactive experience in Fornite's Creative Mode, called Jumpman Zone. There, gamers can go on a scavenger hunt to discover Air Jordan 11 'Cool Grey' artifacts, complete Trickshot Challenges and unlock Jumpman-inspired MVP areas.

www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

Balenciaga The Kering-owned brand previously collaborated with Fortnite and has now created a dedicated metaverse team. The allocated unit will work exclusively on exploring marketing and commerce opportunities in the space. Speaking about digital fashion, CEO Cédric Charbit said, "the use-ability is the point that's missing, but that's making gigantic steps every day."

The OTB Group The international fashion group, which owns brands such as Diesel and Maison Margiela, has created a new business unit called Brave Virtual Xperience (BVX), which will support all of its brands in gaming and metaverse industries.

The British Fashion Council (BFC) The BFC launched its first-ever Fashion Award for Metaverse Design exclusively with Roblox and crowned its first winner, cSapphire, who runs an in-game clothing store. The award was presented at a virtual ceremony by an avatar of Gucci's Alessandro Michele.

Dyson Dubbed Demo VR, the brand has created advanced virtual reality technology that enables customers to test out products, such as its hairdryer and Airwrap styler, in the comfort of their own home using an Oculus headset.

H&M A regular on Animal Crossing, 11 pieces from its vegan Co-Exist Story collection have been recreated in virtual form to be showcased at the in-game fashion show. The retailers Looop Island has been remodeled to reflect the vegan values of the collection, banning fishing and hunting and offering vegan food at the island's restaurant. Gamers can also virtually download the clothes at the Able Sisters shop.

In gaming - Fortnite The majority of the metaverse's influences have come from gaming. Earlier this year, the platform began hosting in-game concerts for artists like Marshmello and Ariana Grande. Users can interact with environments in the game while listening to the show. More recently, Fortnite furthered its plans for the metaverse with "Party Worlds", new 3D spaces designed solely for players to hang out and socialize with friends.

Roblox Another major gaming platform, Roblox has seen the most collaborations with the fashion world so far, In November, Nike announced its partnership with the platform to create a free virtual playspace called Nikeland. Plus, Gucci curated the Gucci Garden in May to sell limited-edition digital clothing and, in September, Vans created an interactive store where users can customize sneakers and attend virtual concerts.

In tech - Meta In October, Facebook announced it was changing its name to Meta, in order to "bring the metaverse to life." The company purchased VR company Oculus in 2014, signaling the start of

its investment in the virtual space. At its Connect 2021 keynote, the company unveiled Horizon Home, its early version for a home base in the metaverse that users can join using their Oculus Quest headset. Meta also outlined plans for the metaverse to encompass work, entertainment and everything in-between - developing Quest for Business, which will fully launch in 2023. Microsoft Meta's rival has also been investing in immersive spaces, with a current emphasis on the workplace. The company most recently announced Mesh for Microsoft Teams as its gateway into the metaverse, a feature that allows people in different locations to join collaborative holographic experiences with the tools of Microsoft Teams. Users can join a Teams meeting as a customized avatar of themselves and build immersive spaces to meet and collaborate.

CONNECTING WITH NFTS The metaverse provides an opportunity for people to showcase their Non-Fungible Tokens (NFTs) purchased in the digital world. In the future, we are likely to see consumers wearing digital clothing items they have bought in the metaverse - either in games or social spaces - as their avatar becomes more heavily linked to self-identity. Digital marketplace THE DEMATERIALISED enables customers to purchase digital fashion assets as NFTs that they can currently port into selected games, including Sansar, VR CHAT and Decentraland.

SHOULD YOU INVEST?

As it stands, the metaverse is currently inaccessible for many consumers as it often requires a VR headset for entry. The technology is also still under development and has a long way to go before replicating real life. Mark Zuckerberg estimates it could take five to 10 years before the central ideas of the metaverse become mainstream. However, aspects of the metaverse that currently exist, such as interactive games and avatars, can be utilized by brands through collaborations or by developing their own virtual worlds.

on trend

HALPERN

N CHO

EUDO

2 DSQUARED

MARA 12-336

MARA 12-396

MARA 12-283

oomer Green has officially taken over. While Millennial Pink is still going strong, you can expect to see less in the coming months and more shades of green. Gen Z has injected a zing of sharp green into almost all areas of life. From their wardrobe to the walls and even their bed sheets. Green is so hot right now that once you notice it, you won’t be able to unsee it. Blush pinks and candy floss hues were at their peak two years ago and during this time greens were introduced slowly in small doses. To be honest, I was completely shocked that it wasn’t announced as the colour of

the year. From a dash of lime to a full blown green screen, we found Zoomer Green was rife through the international Fall/ Winter 2022 collections circuit. Cosy up with a softer hue of green with this knitwear piece from Eudon Choi. This soothing shade exudes comfort and calming energy. It’s Granny Smith hue is one of the most commercial shades of green that consumers are eating up. Halpern, however, went straight for the zest with a hue close to Terry Apparel’s MARA 12-336. A look that keeps on giving with the light bouncing

off the silk, paired with a soft peach, the lime green is definitely the hero. Dsquared2 utilises a popular a-frame silhouette in a deeper shade of emerald, dressed down into a casual approach with a classic denim jacket. While Gen Z will be opting for fluro, limes, and brighter hues, other consumers will dive into a muted or darker colourway. Covering a wide range of green hues, this look by Robyn Lynch blurs the line between fluro green and yellow with its base knit piece. Then goes in for the jugular pairing it with a muted green ombre vest and olive green pants.

EY DAL S.S.

ROBYN LYN RD

RIC INN

MARA 12-3499

MARA 12-98

MARA 12-833

On the couture end, Richard Quinn boasts a glimmering satin in a saturated hue of green like Terry Apparel’s MARA 12-833. It’s loud, it’s proud, it’s extremely on trend right now. Coming back into a more

commercially viable option, this silk blouse by S.S. Daley showcases how easy it is to incorporate green into any capsule wardrobe. A timeless style updated with a trending hue similar to Terry Apparel’s MARA 12-98. In any case, green is a hero hue for

2022 and is on a steady incline for seasons to come. It shows the same signs of promise as Millennial Pink. We can also see this trend across interior design forecasts from dark forest hues to zingy limes.

Threads available from

0800 837 797 www.terryapparel.co.nz www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

WITH MINUTES

Jeremy Bank Founder and Director of YY Nation

YY NATION With over 25 years of experience in the footwear industry, Jeremy Bank came from a long line of footwear experts. One day when taking a casual stroll on the beaches of Hawaii with his daughter, they noticed plastic, shoes, and rubbish everywhere. “It was eye-opening to see that in one generation all this pollution had happened, and it concerned me to think what the environment would be like for future generations.”

ith rising waste and the environmental impact of the footwear industry increasing, Bank began exploring ways to challenge traditional manufacturing and design processes to create a sustainable alternative, and thus, YY Nation was born. Fashion is now no longer just about style but also about sustainability. Using ethically sourced and sustainable plantbased materials, such as pineapple husk ‘leather’, algae, and sugarcane, YY Nation debuted their first zero-carbon certified Legacy Footwear Collection. The collection offers a range of four unisex designs, including low-top and hi-top lace-ups, a slip-on style, and up to twelve different colourways to suit any gender identity, age, or occasion. Holding the title for the world’s smallest carbon footprint of 5.45kg CO2e, YY Nation’s Nimbo shoe, made from bamboo and algae, is the collection's standout piece. Through the creation of the Legacy Footwear Collection, YY aims to “leave a lasting legacy, making a difference for the benefit of future generations.” The sneakers are classic silhouettes suitable for special occasions and everyday moments. Not only stylish but also comfortable, the collection proves that “nature is better, better for you and better for the planet!” Launching a collection in the midst of a pandemic YY Nation was met with its challenges. “We had travel plans disrupted to visit our manufacturing partners, supply chain issues, and long lead times. Our initial manufacturing plant had to close permanently due to Covid, which was really sad.” To overcome this YY Nation realigned its business operations to adapt to the changing business environment. Bank stated that currently, over 625 million pairs of shoes end up in landfills annually. As a start-up footwear business, YY Nation’s mission is to help protect the Earth and make the world a greener and healthier place through a variety of innovative solutions. “We are on a mission to do better for our planet. While we were happy to launch with the lowest carbon emission sneakers worldwide, we like to say that these are the worst shoes we’ll ever make, but the best for the earth. We’re committed to continuing to ask questions, innovating, and finding new solutions to help solve the extreme waste created by the footwear industry.” www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

trade talks

OVERCOMING THE CHALLENGES OF SEASONAL CASHFLOW

Distributors in the apparel business are often caught in the middle when it comes to cash flow. You need to lock in solid orders with your retail customers so you can then place your own orders with overseas suppliers. But production and shipping times can fluctuate, especially with the additional pressures COVID-19 has put on supply chains.

he pressure on your cash flow can put the brakes on your own growth plans. That’s where Lock Finance can help out. Lock Finance is one of New Zealand’s most experienced and innovative invoice finance operators, having helped many importers and wholesalers use working capital solutions to smooth out seasonal funding gaps. One long-term customer is Arnon Levy, from Fashion Marketing Limited (FML) in Wellington. He’s a sixth-generation apparel wholesaler and FML has been in business since 1997, supplying women’s clothing, footwear and accessories to retail stores across New Zealand. “I enjoy the contact with our customers and agents,” added Arnon. “It really does have a family feel to it, as the fashion industry is really quite small these days in New Zealand.” Arnon has been a Lock Finance customer for over 10 years, making effective use of their invoice finance solutions. He says invoice finance gives him more flexibility with his customers’

accounts, as cash flow is an issue for every business, especially those that manage stock. It also helps maintain business relationships. “In an industry that is challenging at the best of times, we receive a lot of support from our customers so in turn we support them. Every customer has challenging months at times and that’s where the support from their suppliers is essential to see them through.” Seasonality has a big impact on his business. “The main delivery windows in the clothing industry,” says Arnon. "Are late January to April for autumn/winter and July to October for spring/summer. This leaves four months out of every year that is very lean for cash flow.” Slow payers are a risk, triggering a domino effect that makes it harder to pay suppliers and keep the supply chain going. To manage this, when the FML team receives firm retail orders, these are collated and shared with Lock Finance, who draw down funds from FML’s Purchase Order Facility to pay their

overseas suppliers directly. Once the product arrives here in New Zealand and is delivered to FML’s customers, Lock Finance draws down funds from their Invoice Finance Facility to repay the Purchase Order Facility. This also releases additional cash, equal to FML’s margin on their orders, which becomes available as working capital. Accounts receivable for FML is handled by Lock Finance so that Arnon and his team can get on with more important jobs. “Invoice financing means we can pay our suppliers on time and deliver to our customers on time, COVID permitting,” said Arnon. “It’s clean and, in most cases, seamless.” Even if you're not ordering seasonally, Lock Finance can help your business switch on the power of your unpaid invoices. With an Invoice Finance Facility, you’re able to access cash straight away, instead of waiting on your customers to pay. You can proactively focus on where your business is going, rather than sit back and wait on others.

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THE LINGERIE MARKET

Explained In 8 Charts

Underwear makes up 4% of womenswear products currently retailing online across the US and UK markets combined. While this may seem small, on a global scale, lingerie is expected to reach $78.66bn in 2027, making that 4% worth owning. Few categories have seen such significant shifts over time as lingerie. The pandemic accelerated the alreadypopular comfort dressing movement, propelling soft cup silhouettes into the spotlight. Consumer demand for inclusivity in sizes and shades has been met by viral DTC brands like Parade and SKIMS, forcing legacy players to finally up their game or fade into obscurity. To trade in this space, retailers need to champion sustainability and diversity, as well as be elastic with prices to react to a volatile market currently feeling the squeeze of inflation. Luckily, we have the tools to help you achieve all this and more.

KEY TAKEAWAYS

• Despite a return to events, demand for comfort is still strong, with retailers increasing their investment in sports bras by 9% and bralettes by 4% YoY. Push-up bras have experienced a twoyear decline, down 15% YoY and 25% vs. 2020. • It’s paramount that retailers embed diversity in all aspects of their business and not just as a box-ticking exercise. Darker shades of nude underwear now equal 56% of skin-tone underwear in the US, up from 42% a year ago. However, the UK is lacking with lighter beige hues accounting for 72% of nude products. • In terms of body diversity, big brands have made a greater effort to be more inclusive of fringe sizes such as 2XS, 2XL and 3XL. Yet, core sizes XS-XL remain the most catered-to, while men’s plus size underwear remains a

relatively untapped space. • To address sustainability, retailers have invested in period pants which have skyrocketed 273% YoY. The number of recycled bras in stock has surged 266% YoY, though only 15% are described as “100% recycled” for either the whole garment or components, which could suggest potential greenwashing if blended with other fibers that aren’t as responsible. • With cotton prices inflating, products described with 100% cotton components have risen 10% in the US, and 22% in the UK, YoY. Breaking down by style level reveals opportunities to adjust pricing for thongs, which are currently underpriced and experiencing the highest number of sell outs at $25.

COMFORT’S REIGN CONTINUES A trend noted for several years now, lingerie styles have evolved away from the bust-boosting bra styles popularized in the 90s to reflect modern consumers' lifestyles centered on comfort and functionality. COVID-19 contributed further to the decline of the push-up bra. With sleepwear, activewear and loungewear’s emergence as the darlings of pandemic dressing, lingerie that straddled these categories became the MVPs. Even in a post-lockdown age, these trends continue to thrive. Across both mass market brands and pure play active retailers, investment in sports bras has grown 9% YoY and 20% vs. 2020. Comfort remains an underlying factor in this product’s success, with

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non-restrictive attributes driving sell outs. Buoyed by cult brands SKIMS and Gymshark, seamless sports bras have been prominent in 2022's buys, equalling 53% and 48% of sports bras at boohoo and PrettyLittleThing respectively. Not only limited to activewear, consumer’s penchant for comfort continues to shape key bra silhouettes. Serving both the comfort and sexy

(fig.3)

dressing trend, retailers are backing bralettes for both inner and outer wear. Since 2020, wireless styles have increased 24% and 4% YoY. While softer shapes take over, push-ups have been pushed down. They have declined 15% YoY and 25% compared to 2020, further proof comfort and functionality are winning right now. (fig.1) This softer approach is also evident in shapewear. The impact of COVID has seen this category evolve from an occasion to a lifestyle item with core assortments now made up of highwaist briefs, bike short silhouettes and bodysuits. Fashion's cultural reset has led to retailers phasing out describing shapewear properties as "slimming," a term attached to only 9% of stocked items vs. 12% a year ago. Instead, the terminology has been repositioned around "smoothing," "firming," and "sculpting" qualities, emphasizing seamless styles with “comfort” a descriptor on 29% and 27% of products in the US and UK, respectively. (fig.2) This doesn't mean the end of flirty and seductive silhouettes. Black lace and sexy cut-out sets were among the top performing styles on Valentine's Day.

SEND NUDES…IN EVERY SHADE

More retailers are waking up to "nude" referencing a vast range of shades, setting a new precedent for inclusivity www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

(fig.4)

across skin tones. Several digitally native brands have entered the playing field with diversity baked into their brand ethos. SKIMS offers nine neutral hues, while Heist has developed seven shades of nude, covering over 1,000 unique skin tones. To compete, US brands have seen a more significant shift towards stocking underwear inclusive of darker nudes. Shades on the spectrum of brown are most dominant, making up 56% of underwear, up from 42% a year ago. However, the UK market tells a different story. Despite brands like Simply Be and Marks & Spencer designing underwear in various fleshtoned shades, the majority of tones in this market is still geared towards lighter bisque hues, equalling 72% of products. This signifies that there is still work to be done to make intimates more inclusive of skin tones. (fig.3) Given the state of the environment, sustainability can no longer be ignored by retailers. With underwear worn daily and an essential in all consumers’ wardrobes, it's a category that requires a serious eco overhaul due to the disposable nature of cheap underwear, excessive dyes and the use of petroleumbased fabrics. As an environmentally-friendly alternative to single-use sanitary products, the menstrual underwear market has continued to garner attention and gain momentum. Period pants in stock have seen a 273% increase compared to 2021, with styles introduced at Victoria's Secret PINK, J.Crew, Next and Marks & Spencer. Similar to the wider market, recycled materials continue to make up the bulk of sustainably-described underwear products in stock. Bras described

(fig.5)

SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS

as recycled have swelled 266% YoY, with brands like Aerie, Monki and Gap growing their investment. Of the recycled products available, 70%-79% recycled content is the most common, with 30% of styles falling here. Just 15% of styles feature “100% recycled” in their description for either the whole garment or particular components, as noted at Tezenis, For Love & Lemons x Victoria's Secret and Free People.

Using recycled materials isn’t the only measure of a product or company's sustainability efforts and shouldn’t be seen as the bare minimum. Retailers need to be tackling the environmental crisis from multiple angles - not just their products' care and composition label, but also extending to the emissions within their value chain, what happens to their products at the end of their lifespan and the welfare of their garment

workers. (fig 4.)

SIZE DOES MATTER

(fig.8)

(fig.7)

(fig.6)

As a category synonymous with sex appeal, major lingerie brands have rewritten their narratives to represent a broader audience. There's been a striking shift away from advertising geared towards cis straight men to products designed with comfort in mind, more gender diversity and inclusive sizes. As barriers break down across fashion, the lingerie sector has been one of the fastest adapting categories. In addition to Victoria's Secret’s extremely public image makeover, the brand also increased the proportion of styles stocked in fringe sizes like 2XS and 2XL and introduced options in a 3XL. Similarly, Gap US and Monki UK have included more underwear options in a 2XL vs. last year. Despite these efforts, all these brands are still focusing on serving core sizes like XS-XL. Retailers unsure about the payoff of inclusive sizing only need to look at Savage X Fenty and SKIMS. These labels have an equal distribution across sizes, allowing customers to purchase the same products regardless of body shape. Recently, Savage X Fenty secured $125mn in funding to expand to brickand-mortar, while SKIMS doubled its valuation to $3.2bn. (fig 5.) While diverse body shapes have been somewhat embraced in women's underwear campaigns, they are noticeably lacking for men. Despite the average US male having a 40-42 inch waist (usually an XL in underwear, though it may vary depending on brands), retailers continue to prioritize casting lean and muscular male models. Once again, Savage X Fenty has disrupted this space, including plus size male models in its runway shows and product campaigns to accompany its menswear range, where all underwear styles are available between XS and 3XL. (fig 6.)

PRICES HAVE INFLATED

Due to ongoing supply chain bottlenecks impacting raw materials and shipping costs, all categories have faced various inflation levels. Underwear is no exception. Its reliance on cotton, which is at a ten-year high, has led to products made with 100% cotton components hiking 10% in the US, and 22% in the UK, YoY. Alongside the aforementioned growing demand for comfort styles and sustainable innovation, retailers are going to need to make smarter price adjustments to align with these market shifts. In the US market, 16% of bikini cuts and 15% of briefs and thongs in stock over the past three months were priced under $5. Yet, all three of these styles

have seen higher sell out%ages at deeper price points, a clear example of unnecessary margin erosion. Instead, briefs are most successful selling between $15-$20, as noted with NA-KD's high-waist lace panties at $16.95. For thongs, the pricing sweet spot can be elevated up to $25, as per SKIMS offering thongs between $20$22, while H&M justifies a $24.99 price point with seamless multipacks. The same proportion of boy short styles has sold between $5-$10 and $40-$45. To elevate prices, retailers can capitalize on comfort's command by investing in premium materials like Pointelle and Modal. (fig 7.)

Meanwhile, men’s underwear has also felt the impact of inflation, with the average full price of individual boxers rising 9% YoY to £8.25. This is also reflected in the US, with prices climbing 5% to $20.31. At retailer level, Bershka (UK) inflated the price of its three-pack boxers by £3 to £17.99 since 2021 despite having the same 76%/77% cotton composition. Abercrombie & Fitch occupies the exit spot in the US after introducing a new 12-pack offering last August at $118. Meanwhile, UNIQLO has kept its pricing architecture the same for the past three years, positioned tightly between £5.90/ $9.90-£9.90/ $14.90. www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

meet the buyer

IRIS AND IRIS, FLO & FRANKIE Iris and Iris are the Homeware & Accessories and Fashion Buyers for Flo & Frankie, the fashion and homewares boutique.

lo & Frankie is passionate about supporting local and small businesses, as well as stocking favourite brands from around the globe. More than just a store, the business has a mission to bring together the best of fashion and lifestyle products. No small feat - but Iris and Iris are up for the job. HOMEWARE & ACCESSORIES Iris Tomaš has worked across a range of roles, both in and out of the fashion industry. Before starting at Flo & Frankie, she had three years experience as a homewares and accessories buyer, gaining experience in retail, sales and marketing. “These experiences allowed me to gain a well-rounded understanding of consumer buying behaviour, and have heavily influenced my buying decisions.” In her approach to buying at Flo & Frankie, Tomaš loves products that are made with top quality materials or ingredients, and add value and functionality to the home, or everyday lives. She also looks for a certain

aesthetic, to fit the store’s essence. At Flo, the team love organic shapes, textures, and fragrances. Flo & Frankie’s collection of homewares and accessories are inspired by travel, as well as the talented creatives who make the gorgeous products here in New Zealand. For Iris, personally, it is important that the brands Flo & Frankie support do good for the world we live in, so that customers can know they are supporting a range of incredible businesses that genuinely care for the planet. This is something all stocked brands have in common. Sustainability is a value that the team Flo & Frankie hold very close to their hearts. “It is a key component of my decisionmaking during the buying process.” Brand stories and company ethics are important at Flo, and to Iris, because they tie together the product and the heart of the business. Specifically in homeware and accessories, Iris will look for products that sit within a specific store colour scheme and are able to be merchandised beautifully in store.

Neutrals in all shapes and forms of Scandi-Rustic design are the usual goto. For homeware, footwear and accessories, Flo & Frankie offer a midprice range, with the exception of a few very special pieces reaching further into the high-end range. Due to the nature of stocking locally made New Zealand brands that offer sustainably sourced organic, natural ingredients, a premium price can be expected compared to mass department store competitors. During the Covid-19 pandemic, Tomaš found the team were able to buy through online video-conference showroom tours, and would wait for samples to arrive physically to view. The pandemic has changed her view on the necessity of flying overseas to view products in person. “E-commerce has also improved so much over the last few years, making it easier to gain an understanding of products digitally too. There is really no need to fly overseas to view products in person, which is also kinder on our planet.” www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

meet the buyer

FASHION Iris Flitterman studied Fashion Business and Buying in Paris before moving to New Zealand in 2017. During her time in Paris, she worked as Assistant Buyer at Iro, and in product development for Maje. Starting at Flo & Frankie in 2019, Flitterman already had in-depth knowledge of the fashion industry, but needed to learn specifically about New Zealand and Australian fashion on the job. When looking at designers to stock in store at Flo & Frankie, brand story, quality, style, environmental impact and views on sustainability stand out to Flitterman. When curating a portfolio of different designers, she tries to picture them all in store together. Drawing from her retail experience, Flitterman pays a lot of attention to the visual merchandising of the boutiques.

The selected brands should work harmoniously, either with a colour story or by telling a common fashion theme. With such a wonderful variety of customers visiting Flo & Frankie stores, Flitterman tries to stock something for everyone. “Whether you’re looking for a dress to celebrate your birthday, pieces for your workwear wardrobe, or need a new loungewear weekend outfit to wear while hanging out with your children – we try to have something for everyone and every occasion.” Flo sells clothing that is made to be loved and kept. Catering for a wide range of customers, Flitterman usually works with small capsules, rather than large drops. The boutiques follow seasonal trends, colours, shapes and fabrics, but stick to timeless and classic wardrobe staples too. Styles that the

team really believe in, and know the majority of customers will love and adore, are stocked in larger volumes. “We believe in beautiful pieces that can be worn over and over again, whether they’re ‘on-trend’ or not – when our customers purchase from us they're purchasing to love and wear their items for a long time to come.” The boutiques aim to be as inclusive as possible by offering high quality fashion across a range of price points. The price range of Flo & Frankie’s fashion collections vary from affordable streetwear styles to more high-end designer prices. Flitterman’s advice to designers looking to be stocked in unique retailers is to stay true to themselves, and their brand story. “Keep an eye on what’s going on in the fashion world, and work towards

doing your best at respecting the environment.” Sustainability affects Flittermans buying process. She will always favour a brand that works hard to improve its business practices by reducing its environmental impact, improving the livelihood of employees in its supply chain, or by giving back to the community around them. “A lot of our footprint is down to each supplier's commitment to the planet and people – so we’re well aware that to a certain degree we’re in a unique position to help positively influence other brands.” The Covid-19 pandemic affected Flitterman’s buying process greatly. Lockdowns saw an increased demand for casual looks and loungewear, followed by demand for dressy fashion as the world reopened and people were

ready to go out and socialise. “Everything was changing every few months, and I would say that has made me more aware and more reactive to meeting a constantly changing demand.” In the next few months, Flitterman is excited for all the fun colours arriving in store. A positive outcome postpandemic is people’s readiness to bring a bit of energy to what they wear. “The fashion this year is probably the most ‘fun’ I’ve seen in years, and it’s so good to see!” Since Flo & Frankie opened its doors in 2013, the team has noticed an amazing growth in customers’ awareness of sustainability. There is an increasing demand for a more sustainable fashion offering, that the buyers do their best to meet. A large

proportion of the brands now stocked have initiatives or processes in place focussing on reducing their impact on the environment. Flo & Frankie are able to combine the best of fashion and lifestyle products with helping others at home in New Zealand and further afield through their social and environmental initiatives like Flo Gives Back. Shop, and read more about Flo & Frankie’s environmental responsibilities at floandfrankie.com Are you a New Zealand or Australian designer keen to join the Flo & Frankie portfolio? Contact Iris Tomaš for homewares and accessories at irisT@floandfrankie.com For everything fashion, contact Iris Flitterman at irisF@floandfrankie.com

www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

meet the buyer

SARAH CLARK, HEDGEROW A Remuera institution, Hedgerow stocks a carefully curated selection of clothing, homewares and gifts. Owner and buyer, Sarah Clark had a background in advertising before buying Hedgerow in 2005.

“A

ll I know, I have learned on the job!” Since the lifting of restrictions due to the Covid-19 pandemic, Clark has been enjoying an open store and buying stock in person again. Seeing products in person, rather than through a catalogue or zoom call allows Clark to touch and feel the stock she selects for her store. She buys high quality in small capsules, for her store demographic of women, aged 25+, local to Auckland. Her customer’s style is “beautiful, classic but modern”. Quality is the number one thing Clark looks out for when selecting stock, and hopes to see a decline in the trend of consumers paying high

The team at Hedgerow has passion for all their products and a dedication to outstanding service, setting the small business apart from mass department stores.

prices for poor quality. Each season has its own essence, and she currently loves the crisp look of Summer 22/23, with pops of colour. The store stocks world renowned brands such as Marle, Voluspa, Glasshouse and Rains. The team at Hedgerow has passion for all their products and a dedication to outstanding service, setting the small business apart from mass department stores. In the future, Clark has several overseas trips planned, to visit suppliers and fairs and find some inspiration from outside of our own beautiful country to bring back to Hedgerow. For more information, visit www.hedgerow.co.nz.

www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

meet the buyer

DEBBIE LAWSON, DEVAL A glass of bubbles is not unexpected when walking into Deval. Debbie Lawson, Founder of Deval Boutique, ensures a shopping experience quite unlike any other. Her shop is situated in The Precinct, Wanaka, and hopes to give everyone a memorable shopping experience.

ebbie Lawson came from a sales background rather than a buying one. Before opening Deval she worked for the likes of Keith Matheson, Limited Editions and DFS, learning that fashion is all about quality, not quantity. She also discovered the importance of customer experience, as it is what keeps clients coming back. Now utilising all her customer service and styling skills, Deval offers handpicked outfits and private styling functions to its customers. Most recently hosting a private 50th birthday celebration complete with a fashion show. Lawson is all about her customers. There is a huge amount that goes into the Deval buying process, handpicking clothing, shoes and accessories from around the world. Lawson’s close-knit team meet weekly to discuss store plans, allowing them to match any client’s needs. From marketing and store merchandising to pre-planning customer outfits for fittings, Lawson has everything covered. Everyone at Deval loves what they do, and one customer who is now 84, has been a regular with Lawson since she was 18. Lawson believes style is always an option, and age becomes insignificant when you look chic and confident. When buying for Deval Boutique, Lawson looks for a point of difference and a designer's unique handprint. She seeks fabrics that are both beautiful, and of high quality because she wants pieces to last. When viewing a range, Lawson knows it is a good one when she can’t help but want all the pieces herself. Deval’s aim is to stock lifestyle clothing with an edge, that tends to be well cut and highlights a person's

best features. They are garments that make Lawson’s customers want to keep coming back for more. Typically she does not prescribe a huge amount of colours to her collection, instead, she likes to handpick styles that suit specific customers' tastes and styles. Deval stocks garments between $79 and $3999, and she does not get stuck in price traps, only buying what she knows will work. Lawson notes proudly that they have several school girls who

have become loyal customers, saving up specifically so they can shop at Deval. Lawson's advice to designers is to follow your passion, do your own thing to try and create a style that keeps going from season to season, allowing pieces to be continuously added. With the world beginning to re-open, Lawson is incredibly excited to start travelling again, to be trying things on and discovering more fabulous labels to add to the Deval family.

www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

meet the buyer

MARGARITA ROBERTSON, PLUME STORE Margarita Robertson is the buyer and Creative Director at Plume Store. She began her retail fashion career in 1975 and expressed how back then the fashion world looked very different, international brands were not as easily sourced and the import duties were enormous. Over the late 80s and early 90s, she began travelling all around the world and sourcing brands from all around Japan and Europe.

lume store has always had a point of difference in the marketplace with their wide demographic appeal. Stocking everything from socks to tailored coats, with everything in between. Many of their garments are gender fluid, with a common denominator of ageless wearability. Robertson told us how at Plume they have built a remarkable community with a very loyal and trusting clientele. There are many benefits for designers having their collections stocked in stores like Plume as opposed to mass department stores, as they offer wonderful opportunities to engage with the knowledgeable staff, who also adore the collections they buy from. "The store ensures no two people leave the store looking the same, the uniqueness of each individual is taken into consideration, and the liaison is very personal." To stand out as a designer, Robertson said she looks for designers' own signatures and trademarks so that their style is easily identified in-store and that no two brands look the same. Her advice to designers looking to be stocked in a unique retail store is to: "Be unique and look to see if their style would fit with our stable." When curating a portfolio of different designers, Robertson will find a common thread among the designers to make it cohesive. They will sit alongside other brands with the same

aesthetic while still maintaining their own trademark. Plume's priority as a brand is on sustainability and made-to-last investment pieces. Robertson told us how they do not buy garments that are in fast fashion explaining: "We ourselves are not trend followers, we know that we offer style that is outside trends." She added that they are concentrating on their current portfolio and staying with what they know as the consumer market is unpredictable in these everchanging times. Robertson has seen shifts in the industry since she first started her fashion career, noting that it is exceptionally competitive now, and now so many designers are choosing to have their collections produced offshore due to increasing labour costs. "However, I feel our particular market is very discerning and only purchases garments that they know are ethically made and are sustainable in the sense that they are not thrown away after one season." The pandemic has affected buyers like Roberston as she told us how she has been unable to travel overseas and examine the garments in person. "I have been buying garments from images, luckily I am pretty aware of what each of our brand's styles is so it's not too challenging. I miss being able to touch and feel the garments, but I guess that time will return." www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

meet the buyer

SHELLEY HARVEY, BELLE BIRD BOUTIQUE Belle Bird Boutique, Dunedin is a multi-brand store of mostly New Zealand brands. The shopping experience is important to owner and buyer, Shelley Harvey. As a small store, the team can offer a personal shopper experience, getting to know their customers and customers tastes well.

arvey has owned Belle Bird for almost 20 years, and has learned the ins and outs of buying for her customer. With a background in fashion, training as a cutter and working as a pattern maker before completing a degree in Fashion & Design at Otago Polytech, Harvey began by designing her own labels, and Belle Bird was created to house her own and her former business partners designs. As the store's main buyer, Harvey looks at ranges and enjoys the seasonal flow of buying. She enjoys analysing what worked or didn’t work, and reviews final orders with assistant buyer, Ruby. “Sometimes, we ordered green but everyone wants to know why we didn’t get the pink. At 23, Ruby can have a different view on what we are looking at and I think buying in collaboration is healthy for the store.” Ruby started at Belle Bird fresh out of her Fashion degree in Otago. “We graduated 20 years apart from

the same school.” Together, the pair goes through every piece of a range and discusses what styles and colours have been successful, and what they are looking for next. Belle Bird covers a broad range demographically, and with this in mind the pair shop for an aesthetic rather than a specific customer. Back in the day, Harvey focussed on the Dunedin student market, but has found their shopping habits to have changed dramatically in recent years as the market expanded online and into clothing rental options. From this, the store’s broader market base was opened up. Harvey prefers to stock a smaller selection of brands and represent them well, looking for quality in fabrics and make. When looking at designers, she considers the brands story, market and direction and the versatility of pieces to suit a range of body shapes. “A brand that really stands behind what they do and can effortlessly translate a trend into their own design

aesthetic stands out.” In curating Belle Bird’s selection, Harvey notes brands can be vastly different so long as they serve a purpose within the store and match the boutique’s mood. Brands that are too similar can sometimes end up in competition with each other within the store and with limited space diversity is important. The boutique stocks mid to high end pieces, with the exception of price pointed jewellery, accessories and bits & bobs around the store. Harvey’s advice to designers looking to be stocked in unique retailers is to have great photos. Hard copy lookbooks delivered in the post are always opened, compared to the many lookbooks emailed through, and a phone call to follow up could be the securing action. “Know who will buy your clothes and test the market. The reality of the purchaser could be different to the customer you had imagined.” The boutique follows seasonal trends, while avoiding of-the-moment and fast fashion. “Buying is all about predicting the next trend, layered with what will still be around in six months.” The Belle Bird buying team do this through a balance of sales analytics from past and current seasons and gut instinct. The pair trust the design judgement of the brands they stock, and find that buying in multiple smaller drops works best. Over the years, Harvey has seen

changes in the buying market. New Zealand brands are very forthcoming in seeking to be more sustainable, and Harvey sees the effect of this trickle in store. Whether at a point of sustainability, on their way, or at the beginning of finding out what they can do differently, many homegrown brands are now talking about what they are doing in their production lines to be more sustainable. When the boutique first opened in 2003, online shopping “wasn’t really a thing”. Now, with the rise in popularity of shopping via the internet, designers have their own online retail spaces and brand social media presence. This, combined with an emerging clothing

rental market, forced Belle Bird to change market direction. “We don’t buy nearly as many party dresses as we used to, and focus more on garments with longevity.” In the coming seasons, Harvey is seeing a more fitted look coming through - “tapered trousers, tailored suiting, blazers”. As well as some fun ideas shining through - “bright colours, clashing prints, vests, sheer fabrics for layering, multi-coloured knits”. Midi and slip skirts, super frilly tops and wide leg trousers are on the decline. If a New Zealand or Australian designer is keen to join the Belle Bird Boutique portfolio, contact buyers@bellebird.co.nz

www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

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RETAIL DECODED By John-Daniel Trask, Co-Founder/CEO, Raygun

MEETING IN THE MIDDLE

“Y

ou’ve probably seen dozens of provocative headlines imploring you to embrace technology, making dire predictions about the survival of your business without it. Now, I’m not saying that’s wrong — businesses of all sizes need to make the most of the digital tools they have available. But it’s equally true that technology providers need you. I’ve been in the software business for 20 years, and e-commerce has been heralded as the “next big thing” for just as long. As early as the 90s, vendors were being warned: the competition is one click away — adapt or die! In some cases, these gloomy ultimatums came true. Plenty of seemingly rock-solid businesses have become casualties of the digital era. It’s undeniable that traditional modes of shopping and selling are no longer standalone solutions. However, the underlying principle hasn’t changed: meet your customers where they are. If that’s online, you need to be too. Indulge me for a minute with a personal anecdote. Around this time last year, I ordered a spa pool online. It was chilly, the prices were reasonable, and I decided to splurge. I got that great burst of dopamine when I placed the order — you know the one — and started looking forward to delivery. And looking. And looking. And looking. It’s now been an impressive 11 months since I ordered my pool. I got an email the other day that promised delivery next week. I’m not optimistic. Now, I’m confident that there are really good

reasons why this has happened. That’s not the issue. We all know that there have been major supply chain disruptions both internationally and domestically, and that people are doing their best in the circumstances. The problem isn’t the delays, it’s the silence. With a couple of decent software tools plugged in, the supplier could have automated a series of updates, letting me know what progress was or wasn’t happening. This would have helped me to understand the situation, adjust expectations, and avoid disappointment. Most importantly, it would have saved the time and energy of myself and their support staff following up, creating negative associations with my onceexciting purchase, and turning a pleasure into a cautionary tale. This is a situation where tech could have easily solved (or at the very least, minimized) a problem and provided a far better experience. I’d like to help you stop thinking about digital spaces as an optional add-on, or an overwhelming sea of acronyms and symbols, and think of them as a utility, another area to welcome customers into. Tech has long been insulated by its own necessity. The possibilities we provide are so in-demand that we’ve been able to trust that customers will seek us out and play by our rules, so we haven’t needed to focus too much on communicating with or convincing our market. The mountain has always come to Muhammed.

But software has come a long way from a few keen early adopters. It's everywhere, and for tech businesses, the flood of new users has slowed down as the digital migration process nears completion. It’s time for us to get a bit better at talking to the rest of the world, or we’ll lose out to people with better communication skills. At the other end, as business owners and end-users, you have access to an ever-broader and more sophisticated software industry, with more options to become more responsive and engaging to your customers. The way I see it, both sides can benefit from understanding each other better. So in this column, I’ll aim to dispel some of the fog and fear around software. I won’t use jargon, make assumptions or be dismissive. I’ll attempt to give advice that’s actually practical and plainspoken. Because technology shouldn’t be a necessary evil, but a solution and an opportunity. Confusion shouldn’t eclipse opportunity, and if we shut the majority out, we’ll miss out on countless opportunities to see how smart people apply our ideas in unexpected and exciting ways. I’d also like to open the floor for you, the user, to ask your questions. Any topics you’d like an honest take on, I invite you to submit to [spec email address?]. I can’t promise to have all the answers, but I’ll do my best to give clear and useful answers, without patronising or assuming. If you’re open to learning, I’m open to sharing. Let’s meet in the middle.”

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HOW TO AVOID THE BIGGEST JOB AD RED FLAGS Kirsty-Anne Ferguson Founder of Interview Chix

Recruiting can be a challenge in the best of times; writing the perfect job ad, managing the applications and spending hours on interviews in the hopes you’ll find the perfect person to join your team.

“The current tight labour market has undoubtedly made the process of recruiting staff all the more difficult. According to SEEK’s 2021 Year in Review report, the job website saw record-breaking job ad numbers coupled with a decline in the number of applications per job. This was caused by a smaller talent pool available to fill roles and a nation of workers more conscious of job security. As a result, it’s more important than ever to ensure you put your best foot forward to find the talent you need. Kirsty Anne Ferguson, founder of Interview Chix offers professional advice to businesses and candidates for successful job-seeking. An expert in this field, Ferguson says that nailing the

...you need to think carefully about the language you use in your job ads and what that might say to candidates. Switch seats from hirer to candidate when you write your job ad, what would attract or repel you as a candidate?

language in your job ad is a simple yet effective first step to attract new hires: “Although it can be tempting to use buzzwords and ask for a ‘superstar’ or ‘guru’, you need to think carefully about the language you use in your job ads and what that might say to candidates. Switch seats from hirer to candidate when you write your job ad, what would attract or repel you as a candidate?” In fact, SEEK data* reveals phrases in job ads that are most likely to be seen as immediate ‘red flags’ by job seekers, with some recruiting favourites making the cut. So what are the top red flags, and how can you rephrase them to avoid scaring away top talent?

WEARING ‘MANY HATS’ Although this is a phrase you’ve likely seen in a slew of job ads (or even written yourself), this term is the biggest red flag to job seekers. One third of Kiwis (34%) think that this common descriptor is one of the signs they should have paid attention to in a previous role. “To candidates, this popular phrase can often give the impression that they’ll be expected to do work outside their job description. While some may thrive in an environment like this, it may be best to retire this phrase and instead stick to the actual ins and outs of the job for the ad. You can assess cultural fit, or ‘how’ someone works at an interview. A job ad’s primary role is to attract talent,” explains Ferguson.

WE'RE LIKE FAMILY HERE The concept of a close-knit work culture may be an attractive bonus for some, but for others it is a big red flag.

Job ads that describe the work culture as operating “like a family” turn off as many as one in five (21%) potential candidates, with many Kiwis viewing the phrase as a sign that there are no boundaries. “With home offices and hybrid working becoming the new normal since COVID-19, it can be a challenge to distinguish clear boundaries between our professional and personal lives. Almost all Kiwis (99%) value having a healthy work/life balance and setting boundaries is key to protecting this. “Instead of describing your workplace as ‘like a family’, Ferguson suggests highlighting other work culture positives, such as team building days, flexibility and professional development opportunities. A phrase I use to show a care-based culture’ is ‘people come first.”

UNDER-RESOURCED AND OVERWORKED Most business owners would agree that they look for employees who have a strong work ethic. While this may be the case, there are a few common phrases that could send candidates running for the hills. Key red flag phrases include ‘a high performance culture’ (17%), a ‘strong start-up culture’ (10%) and lines such as ‘get ready to get your hands dirty’ (14%). “These phrases can give the impression that the business is under-resourced and overworked. Even those with the best work ethic could be scared away with fears of burnout, so it could be best to avoid these expressions altogether unless you’re an actual start- up. Using more tangible statements can attract the

right job seeker. Those that identify work methodology and motivation such as ‘project or deadline driven’ or ‘motivated by ideas and challenges ‘ are exciting and will send people your way who know themselves and what they can contribute,” explains Ferguson.

WORK HARD, PLAY HARD Although many businesses boast about their ‘work hard, play hard’ culture, this style of work isn’t for everyone. Similar to some of the signs previously mentioned, there are some specific red flags Kiwis say they found either in the job ad or shortly after starting the job. Although it sounds like something straight out of the Google campus, 12% of Kiwis said they found the use of “sleep pods” in a current or previous workplace to be a red flag. Similarly, one in ten highlighted having dinners together with their colleagues regularly was a red flag, as it means they are often expected to work overtime. “Employers need to think carefully about what perks or benefits they are offering. Although some may feel as though they’re for the employees, it could appear to the job seeker that it’s really only beneficial to the company and give the impression that they might be headed straight for burnout. “To avoid any issues, think about the perks you’re offering, how you communicate the benefits with current and potential employees and perhaps get a friend or mentor to sense-check anything you’re unsure about. Take regular stock of what benefits your current employees actually use and appreciate, to gain perspective.” *July 2021 Sherlock Report -

Independent research conducted by Nature on behalf of SEEK.

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TRAITS OF A SUCCESSFUL LEADER

By Zac de Silva, Strategy and Leadership Coach of Business Changing

f you are going to be successful as a business, it will not happen unless you have a good to great leader running the show, with strong team leaders below them," according to Zac de Silva, strategy and leadership coach at Business Changing.

HOW STRONG IS THE LEADERSHIP AT YOUR BUSINESS?

Think about a company that failed, and usually, the leader sticks out in your mind.

If you're a business leader or a team leader, you need to ask yourself whether your business is as successful as it could be – and if not, how much of the reason for not reaching your potential is due to your leadership? Tricky question, but pondering this can be a game-changer. In my work coaching hundreds of business owners and managers, it's become clear that the best leaders share similar personal traits. "I have a 20-trait checklist that I share in my online or in-person workshops that leaders can rate themselves against – it helps determine your strengths and what

you could work on improving," said de Silva.

HERE ARE FIVE OF THOSE TRAITS IN EFFECTIVE LEADERS: Proactive The best leaders proactively address what needs addressing now. No sticking your head in the sand and hoping it will resolve itself! Good leaders keep a live list of all the things they are unhappy with and prioritise them, working through each one by one, no matter how challenging that might be. Sadly, people will not always do what you ask them to do, so as a leader, you need to follow up to check that they did it and that the changes have had the expected and desired impact. Accountable How many people have a job description and perhaps even key performance indicators but are never held accountable to deliver what they are supposed to? I suggest it's the majority of us. The best leaders know what they are

personally accountable for and their team members' responsibilities. They ensure systems are in place so people understand how they are tracking against expected performance levels. Most importantly, when people are not meeting their accountabilities, something is done about it. Culture focused Culture starts at the top. Where are you unhappy about your workplace culture? Do your people enjoy coming to work? Do they feel supported to do the best job they can every day? Having a great culture makes the job of a leader so much easier, particularly when you have to have more challenging conversations. When it's clear what the team culture is; what you will and won't accept; then the person receiving the message will already know they are letting the team down. They'll already be aware that their performance or behaviours are not meeting company expectations or core values, making a correction that much easier.

Good communicator Sharing your vision is perhaps the most crucial skill. Make sure everyone knows where your business is going. Most employees have no idea. When your team knows what you are genuinely trying to achieve, they will likely engage with the goal and try harder week to week to get to that future state. Being included in this vision makes employees feel like they are part of your business's success, rather than just an undervalued cog in the wheel. Supportive How much effort do you put into developing your managers to be better managers? Fifty% of people leave their job because of their team leader. Managers can cause a heap of stress to the team below them. Miscommunication, unrealistic productivity targets, micromanaging, and being unavailable are among many other issues. In many cases, managers are promoted without training, and the expectation is that they will "know", but they need to learn effective management tools. To improve

your success as a leader, show your support for your managers and help develop them. How can you tell if your managers need help? Do a leadership 360 feedback or a 'skip 1-on-1', where the manager's manager does a 1-on-1 chat with a team member. Here, you can ask some great questions to ensure the manager is doing well leading their team and identify potential areas of improvement to help the team's wellbeing and success. Then, show your support and help the manager address these areas through training or other means. If you'd like to develop your leadership skills or that of your managers, check out the upcoming one-day Effective Leadership Workshops on July 28 and November 24. This workshop covers leadership styles and techniques, how to get the best from your people, the importance of good team culture and developing one, the art of prioritising and delegation, improving performance, the 20 traits of a good leader, and much more.” Find the details at www.businesschanging.com/workshops

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HOW TO OPTIMISE UNSOLD GOODS FOR RETAILERS By Paul Soong, Regional Director, ANZ, E2open

Deadstock has long been a challenge in the retail industry. Many businesses have jumped on the trend of fast fashion, employing speedy design-tosale practices and rapid stock turnover – resulting in more than half of the 380 000 tonnes of textile products imported each year in landfill.

“C

oupled with major imbalances in stock caused by the current unpredictable nature of the supply chain, deadstock is piling up worse than ever before. Yet, there is an opportunity for retailers to optimise their unsold goods through the implementation of sustainable practices that meets the growing expectation from consumers.

FACTORS CONTRIBUTING TO INCREASING LEVELS OF DEADSTOCK Prior the pandemic, the fashion supply chain was operating at a flying speed. Retailers’ rapid release rates of new collections fed into shoppers’ desires to buy more. Despite alarming levels of deadstock emerging, companies still found it cheaper to double volumes with a factory and deal with the excess stock later.

However, the rising costs and increasing uncertainty due to COVID-19 variants impacted New Zealanders’ appetite to spend. Consumer confidence dropped 3.6 points to 99.1 in the Westpac Bank-McDermott Miller Consumer Confidence Survey (December quarter). This loss in confidence forced businesses to pull back on their newly established transport and stock operations and adjust to the reduced demand. As a result, retailers are now experiencing an overload of excess stock like never before, with attempts to receive goods on time through premium prices not paying off.

SUSTAINABILITY DRIVING CONSUMER CHOICES What was even more compelling than these extreme swings in consumer demand, was that fast fashion tactics were no longer driving purchasing

choices post-pandemic. Many New Zealanders are now displaying a trend towards buying goods if they are sourced sustainably. Sustainability is rated as an important purchase criterion for New Zealanders. The Global Sustainability Study 2021 (Simon Kucher & Partners) of more than 10,000 people across 17 countries, identified 85% of people have shifted their purchasing behaviour to being more sustainable over the past five years. 32% of Millennials significantly changed their behaviour towards being more sustainable and one third are choosing a sustainable alternative when available. For many consumer-facing companies, this meant that excessive stock and poor inventory management had to be minimised and put under control.

TRANSFORMING DEADSTOCK FOR SUSTAINABLE PURPOSES Retailers can start looking beyond the supply chain and shopping challenges and focus on optimising their deadstock to showcase their commitment to sustainability. Sustainability can even help retailers overcome the current unpredictable supply and demand fluctuations. Some key strategies that retailers can adopt are:

1. SOURCE DEADSTOCK FABRIC Using deadstock in clothing production can be a direct way to curb waste as it not only reduces the process of producing new materials but can transform unsold goods into potential profits. Purchasing these fabrics also come at a much lower price than producing new textiles. In addition to these materials being significantly cheaper than non-recycled goods, it also improves trust in the consumer relationship by providing transparency on where their clothes are sourced, in turn, boosting their sustainability profile.

2. DEVELOP A GOOD SUPPLIER RELATIONSHIP Having a poor relationship with a supplier or not regularly communicating with them can result in missed or delayed orders. This can lead to a loss of sales and increase in deadstock as the goods miss the period of consumer demand. Developing a positive relationship with suppliers requires strong loyalty as a customer, as well as clear communication to ensure

all parties’ needs are aligned. If this is not achieved, there is a risk that the supplier will not put your needs as a priority. In a situation where stock may be in a surplus or deficiency and the supplier needs to alter an order, they may not feel as obligated to put in the extra effort.

3. IMPLEMENT INTELLIGENCE AND SOFTWARE TOOLS Reduce current and future overstock in the first place by investing in upto-date and accurate technology that can provide retailers greater visibility across their supply chain operation – from inventory to customer status.

Technology, such as integrated cloudbased platforms of applications with connected networks and data will help to improve inventory management. AI tools that enable real-time visibility into orders, shipments, and consumer purchasing provide real-time insights that retailers can use to determine how much stock they need and when. This, in turn, will increase efficiency, lower operational costs and help anticipate stock levels to match consumer demand. Nailing an efficient and sustainable deadstock process is more important than ever for retailers to optimise their unsold goods and ensure they are being utilised from end-to-end.” www.apparelmagazine.co.nz

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