Apparel Magazine // June 2016

$ 9.00

JUNE 2016 I VOL 49 I NO 6

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NEWS BEAUTY NEWS KEY PIECE SUCCESS UNDER 30 BUSINESS PROFILE

EDITOR’S letter THE NEED FOR SPEED In an uncertain and often sluggish market, retailers should be making bold and purposeful decisions and not rely on the ‘good old times’ returning. The familiar industry rollercoaster will not be returning to the top after a low. Instead, the changing customer behaviour will create a different path for the rollercoaster that faces an ever-changing horizon. It seems that no business model can cope with turbulence.

Unfortunately, this turbulence is probably the new normal for most and retailers should buckle in.

Brand building is made all the more difficult with the addition of the digital revolution where e-commerce has provided retailers with endless opportunities for its retail space. Floors of a department store where similar items are grouped together no longer divide the retail space, in its place a curation of brands and products that traditionally wouldn’t be associated with one another.

Stories for individuals and brands are created, told and developed over social media channels in front of large audiences where many are choosing to spend their money on experiences and travel rather than consumer goods. Garments in stores went from full price to half price, to all on sale all the time, to seasonal sales, and back to full price again, what exactly do customers want?

Price-driven customers are only after the sale if that sale involves a coveted item. Otherwise, the sale is useless to them. Despite this, these constant sales and promotions have trained the customer to head towards them. Retailers were quick to cut out expenses, to do less and wait. Wait for customers to go back to buying collections, not pieces, buying brands, not designs.

Finding the light at the end of this rather long tunnel of retailing is seemingly more difficult with the ageing consumer base and an oblivious younger generation coming through. Retailers are encouraged to discard the

FASHIONABLE

old rulebook of seasonality and embrace change to lock down the millennial customer, ensuring the brand and the store is relevant and important to customers today, tomorrow and in the future.

Staying in sync with these consumers requires agility and speed to react to market changes, building on events and influences in fashion and culture. Products that offer the perfect design and the right quality in relation to price are what consumers want. Brands that stand for something and have ongoing and real integrity are the ones that have a role in consumers’ lives. Footwear brand TOM’s, for example, makes people feel like they are contributing to society with each pair of shoes purchased by them, another going to a child who needs them. Building the trust and a relationship with products and brands is hard to replace.

Decades ago, consumers were happy to fit in with the brands and into a particular lifestyle. Today, they want brands to fit in with theirs. Enhancing the customer experience is often spoken of, and continuously overlooked, yet it has a very important role to play in the marketplace and is a key factor with successful brands and companies today. The consumer revolution is a generational one, where brands need to accept and swiftly embrace this and engage with the audience in a crowded market; otherwise, the sale will indefinitely go to that fast-fashion retailer who can do it better and sell it cheaper.

Sarah

sarah@reviewmags.com

ON THE COVER:

the NUMBERS . . .

Michael Hill International’s operating revenue for 2015 rose 4% to $503.4million.

READS SPEAKING OUT: A 21st Century Handbook For Women & Girls

BY TARA MOSS

Having spent 20 years in the public sphere, author and model Tara Moss is no stranger to having her voice ignored. In Speaking Out, Moss guides the reader on how to find their voice and make it heard, empowering women to stand up for what they believe in and value their input amongst a sea of opinions. The book has a special focus on public speaking, writing, social media, and online safety, offering tips on how to research, form arguments, find support and handle criticism.

FOCUS: The Secret, Sexy, Sometimes Sordid World of Fashion Photographers

BY MICHAEL GROSS

From the mind that wrote Model and House of Outrageous Fortune, author Michael Gross has tackled the world of photography and unearthed the intimate stories of photography’s golden age.

Focus probes the lives of more than a dozen fashion photographers including Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Melvin Sokolsky, Bert Stern, and David Bailey to name a few. The book traces the highs and lows of fashion photographer from the late 1940s to today while vividly chronicling the fierce rivalries between photographers, fashion editors, and publishers like Condé Nast and Hearst.

Carolina Herrera

Consumers in the United Kingdom have an estimated £30 billion ($46.7 billion) worth of unworn clothes lingering in their closets.

PUBLISHER Peter Mitchell - peter@reviewmags.com MANAGING DIRECTOR Tania Walters - tania@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Sarah Mitchell - sarah@reviewmags.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Thomas Fowler - tommie@reviewmags.com

Monique McKenzie - monique@reviewmags.com Rossella Quaranta - rossella@reviewmags.com

ADVERTISING SALES SENIOR DESIGNER

Josie McKeefry - josie@reviewmags.com Raymund Sarmiento - raymund@reviewmags.com

2 I June 2016

2015 sales for Peter Alexander have increased by 14.9% to AU$140.5million alongside 14 new stores.

DESIGN ASSISTANT Hannah Sames PHOTOGRAPHER Caitlan Mitchell - caitlan@reviewmags.com ADMINISTRATION MANAGER Kieran Mitchell - kieran@reviewmags.com ISSN 1171-2287

Level 3, Suite 9, 20 Augustus Tce, Parnell, Auckland, PO Box 37 140, Parnell, Auckland Tel (09) 304 0142 Fax (09) 377 2794 NZ Apparel is published monthly under licence by Review Publishing Co Ltd. Please direct all enquiries and correspondence to NZ Apparel. The opinions and material published in this edition of NZ Apparel are not necessarily those of the publishers unless specifically stated. All material appearing in NZ Apparel is copyright and may only be reproduced with the consent of the publisher. Copyright 2015 NZ Apparel Magazine.

BY CAROLINE HERRERA AND J.J. MARTIN Carolina Herrera and J.J. Martin have come together to produce the first in a series to showcase the design career of Herrera herself. Starting out with encouragement from Diana Vreeland in 1981, Herrera’s collections have grown to be favoured by First Ladies, celebrities, international royalty, and her extensive list of faithful clientele.

This monograph is a celebration of three-and-ahalf decades of work organised into chapters that highlight various signatures of the Herrera style.

Fashion author J.J. Martin weaves in quotes from colleagues and friends while including exclusive interviews and behind-the-scenes reporting.

While the book incorporates an extensive selection of archival images, new photography of Herrera’s work from 1981 to the present has been included.

Let us help you make the best match.

Call JACQUI 09 309 5020 or visit www.nzfashiontech.ac.nz

news

NEW PATH FOR MOORE

Following the closure of Dalton Apparel, former director Blair Moore has moved on to selling real estate on Auckland’s North Shore for Prestige Realty.

“The environment that retail was heading in wasn’t compatible with our traditional method of trade. The small independent retailers were becoming few and far between, and they have been the key to our success,” said Moore.

Dalton Apparel was in business for over 100 years and the impact of chain store retailers coupled with John Spooner’s decision to retire as managing director meant Moore thought it the best time to cease trading and focus on a different career path. “Rachel, John’s daughter and business partner still loves fashion, and has begun working for October Reign,” said Moore.

CAPITAL TOPSHOP

Topshop is planning to open its first outlet in Wellington shortly. The popular British clothing retailer has leased premises at 256 Lambton Quay previously occupied

by YD and Maher Shoes as well as an extensive firstfloor area and expects to be opening later this year.

BUDGET BLOWOUT

Australian department chain, David Jones, has overspent on its first New Zealand location, with management refusing to budge on its vision of creating the world’s most beautiful department store.

“It cost a lot more than we wanted but it’s a great space and will be one of the most beautiful stores in the world,” said David Thomas, chief operating officer, David Jones.

The company paid $428,000 to take over Kirkcaldie & Stains’ lease and use its name, with the cost of the refurbishment estimated to be about $20million. “We are on time to open, but, regarding the budget, we will see at the end of the project,” said Thomas.

NEWMARKET BUSINESSES CELEBRATED

The annual Newmarket Business Association Awards were held earlier in June with an expert judging panel who all agreed that the achievements of the finalists were all of a very high standard. Employer of the Year award, sponsored by ANZ, went to Kathryn Wilson Footwear. “We were delighted to be acknowledged as Employer of the year at the Newmarket Business Awards,” said Wilson. “It is a great compliment to our entire team who make our business and retail stores a special place to be every day!”

Other fashionable winners were, Overland Footwear Company, who were awarded International Retailer of the Year, and Glamour Boutique taking out the Newmarket People’s Choice Award for 2016.

Now in its fifth year, the Newmarket Business Awards celebrates business excellence and aims to recognise businesses that are maximising their potential and have mastered the art of delivering excellent products and services in the Newmarket area.

4 I June 2016

CHARITY COLLECTIVE

A group of high-profile designers came together in June to support families and victims of domestic violence. Following the tragic death of 3-year-old Moko Rangitoheriri, Angela Bevan and Adam Bryce worked with designers including Nom*D, Huffer, Stolen Girlfriends Club, Paris Georgia, Zambesi, Karen Walker, Ingrid Starnes, Wynn Hamlyn and Kate Sylvester to produce La La La Magazine.

The magazine, which takes its name from Rangitoheriri’s favourite song, features a series of portraits of New Zealand children wearing different designer clothing.

“While the fashion industry may seem a world away from such a significant and complex social issue as child abuse, we hold a strong belief that every member of our different communities has something to offer towards a solution,” said Bevan, co-founder, La La La Magazine. The 48-page magazine is available online for $15, with all proceeds going to Shine, a charity dedicated to working with families and victims of domestic violence.

news

HEALTHCARE UNIFORMS

EDIBLE APPAREL

UNRELEASED PRINCE Designer Annah Stretton teamed up for a second time with Ryman Healthcare again to produce a new selection of uniforms for its staff.

The new uniforms went on show at the Evelyn Page Retirement Village in Orewa, modelled by 30 first-time models in June. Evelyn Page Retirement Village will be the first to receive the new uniforms, with uniforms for a range of staff being re-designed, including caregivers, nurses, gardeners and laundry staff.

“We wanted garments that brought a smile to the faces of residents, increased the level of pride in what team wear and emphasised the vital role they play in residents’ lives,’’ said Annah Stretton. Simon Challies, managing director at Ryman said the uniforms had been designed with substantial input from staff, prompting the introduction of lighter fabrics for kitchen staff and three-quarter length trousers for caregivers and housekeepers instead of dresses. “We love the designs that Annah’s come up with. The reaction from staff has been tremendous and they’re putting a whole lot of smiles on residents’ faces,” said Challies.

The uniforms were manufactured by Lower Hutt-based Arrow Uniforms, who will be producing 8,000 uniforms for villages in New Zealand and Australia.

An unreleased track from the late Prince featured on the playlist for Versace’s men’s SS17 show. The song was recorded as a personal gift to Donatella Versace, with the designer paying homage by including it in the show. A note at the fashion show read “Donatella would like to use this special occasion as an opportunity to share this incredible music from a dear, and much missed friend.”

The 2016 Hastings Pak’nSave Edible Fashion Awards were a raging success, with a record number of entrants of all ages presenting various creative designs to the panel of judges.

Event organiser, Odette Bowyer, said she was overwhelmed with the creativity and use of materials, impressed that some entrants had been preparing for up to six months before the show. The judging panel consisted of former World of Wearable Arts winner Kate Mackenzie as lead judge and Kilt founder Melissa Williams alongside model and television personality Colin Mathura-Jeffree.

Designer Darrell Woodward took home the $4000 prize for her Bride of the Black Knight design constructed from Black Knight liquorice and yellow shopping bags. “This time last year, I sat in the audience and thought’ Next year, I’m going to give it a go’,” said Woodward.

FINAL JUDGE ANNOUNCED

Auckland-based fashion designer Lela Jacobs has been announced as the final judge for this year’s Hokonui Fashion Design Awards. The designer, who describes her aesthetic as minimal and understated will join the panel which consists of fellow Auckland designer Jimmy D and Kingston’s Jane Sutherland and Annah Stretton. Currently in its 28th year, the show will be held on July 29 and 30, with tickets going on sale June 30.

CAPTURING THE YOUTH

SUPERMODEL FAMILY

Kate Moss and her 13-year-old daughter, Lila Grace, have featured in the June issue of Vogue Italia, making this the second time Grace has appeared in a Vogue magazine.

Despite her mother’s extensive fashion background, Moss told Vogue that Grace shares no interest in joining the industry.

To attract a younger audience, department chain Macy’s enlisted the help of fashion legend, Iris Apfel. “I was called by Macy’s. They said they were looking for someone. They dragged me over and — voila — here I am,” said Apfel. Apfel worked with Macy’s to launch a collection within INC called Iris Meets INC, a range of 40 pieces that capture the spirit of the Sixties Mod style. “It’s been very fun. I like to do things that are fun. If you don’t have a good time, what good is it? The clothes are particularly suited to a younger generation, but us old geezers can wear it as well,” said Apfel. Before manufacturing, Apfel curated the pieces with a specific focus on the accessories, making sure to include her signature round eyeglasses.

“Iris is about style. She is so charismatic when it comes to fashion. Her age is obviously something you can’t stay away from, but that is actually what gives her the gravitas, the attraction and the authenticity. There’s a fascination with her, and it covers all age demographics. In particular, Millennials are learning about the history of fashion through her lens. At events, they are just lined up asking her so much about her career,” said Nancy Slavin, senior vice president of marketing for Macy’s Merchandising Group.

PEOPLE’S CHOICE

After being nominated for five awards at the Newmarket Business Awards, newcomer Glamour Boutique has won the coveted People’s Choice Award.

“We are so thrilled with winning People’s Choice as this reflects that our clients love what we are doing and that they are fully supportive of all that we do,” said Charone Mackessack, owner, Glamour Boutique.

The awards, which were held midJune, are designed to celebrate business excellence, recognising businesses that are maximising their potential.

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CUSTOM FOOTWEAR APP

VANS VIDEO GAME PARTNERSHIP

Legendary game developer Nintendo and streetwear label Vans have come together to launch a series of clothes, shoes, and accessories dedicated to vintage Nintendo games.

The range sees iconic games including Super Mario Bros, Duck Hunt, Donkey Kong and The Legend of Zelda translated into the world of fashion, with Vans printing different game characters onto the Vans Classic range which includes the Authentic lace-up, lace-free Slip-On, high-top SK8-Hi, and clunky Old Skool.

Online footwear retailer Smythe and Digby has launched its custom footwear app that allows customers to design their shoes from a range of style options. The app promises unique footwear options delivered within 4-6 weeks, putting complete creative control in the hands of the customer. “The customer can design whatever type of footwear they want. If they want their name on their shoes it can be done, if they want an image to make the footwear stand out that can also be done. We want our customers to wear footwear they know no other person will have,” said a spokesperson for Smythe and Digby.

BAREFOOT FOR LEARNING

A new study has concluded that children who take their shoes off at school perform and behave better. The study conducted by the UK’s Bournemouth University looked at children from 25 countries over 10 years showed that children who remove their shoes are more likely to arrive at school earlier, leave later and read more widely.

“Children are much more willing to sit on the floor and relax if they have no shoes on. The last place a child would sit to read is an upright chair, and we’ve found that 95 percent of them don’t read on a chair at home.

When they go on holidays they read lying down,” said Professor Stephen Heppell, who led the research.

Heppell examined the behaviour of Scandinavian children, and implemented a “shoes off” policy in West London, then tracked the pupil’s academic results all the way through to university.

ACCESSORY DESIGN AWARD AT CFDA

Footwear designer Paul Andrew has been named the winner of the 2016 Swarovski Award for Accessory Design. Having launched his brand with a spring ’13 collection, Andrew has seen rapid commercial growth alongside celebrity attention. The award recognises Andrew’s efforts in establishing a company that sits among other esteemed winners including Mansur Gavriel, Irene Neuwirth, Pamela Love and Eddie Borgo. “It feels like I’m going from fledgling designer to someone who is more known. I’m not an established brand by any stretch, but all of the sexy buzz isn’t the same as when I launched. Now, it’s really about the product and sustaining growth. And that’s exciting for me,” said Andrew. Andrew recently presented his first menswear collection for fall ’16, as well as an exclusive gold collection for Lane Crawford.

Paul Andrew with Jessica Chastain at the 2016 CFDA Awards

6 I June 2016

OLYMPIC LAWSUIT

Olympic hopeful, Boris Berian

Nike Inc. has launched an all-out legal pursuit of Olympic hopeful Boris Berian to prevent the athlete from moving on to its competitor New Balance Athletes Inc. A suit filed in April accuses Berian of attempting to unlawfully exit a contract signed in June 2015. Nike alleges that its first contract expired at the end of 2015, but that it was entitled to match any third-party offer received by Berian during a certain period immediately after.

However, a motion for a temporary restraining order has been made to the U.S. District Court of Oregon seeking an order to prevent Berian from continuing to violate his contractual obligations by wearing the New Balance shoes.

Berian has already been seen wearing New Balance sneakers in a series of high-profile athletics events including the IAAF World Indoor Championships where he won the gold medal.

“Berian’s actions are causing and will continue to cause Nike irreparable harm. The defendant is slated to compete in the U.S. Olympic Team Trials in July and is a favorite to qualify for and compete at the 2016 Olympics in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, in August,” said Nike in its request to the court.

CLAIMS CROCS ARE UNHEALTHY

Since launching in 2002, Crocs have become one of the world’s widest known footwear brands. However, a Chicago-based podiatrist has claimed Crocs could lead to serious footrelated health issues. “Unfortunately, Crocs are not suitable for all-day use. These shoes do not adequately secure the heel. When the heel is unstable, toes tend to grip which can lead to tendinitis, worsening of toe deformities, nail problems, corns, and calluses,” said Dr. Megan Leahy, a podiatrist with the Illinois Bone and Joint Institute. Leahy explained how she sees patients on a regular basis that complain of arch or heel pain, who are wearing Crocs. This is caused by Crocs flexible shank, which is directly related to foot pain.

“Patients are more likely to have foot pain if their shoes bend in the shank,” said Dr Alex Kor, president of the American Academy of Podiatric Sports Medicine. While Leahy said that Crocs offer good arch support, she urged customers to reconsider when looking for a footwear option to wear for 8-10 hours a day.

PLASTIC BOTTLE FOOTWEAR RANGE

International footwear brand Timberland has announced a new partnership with Thread fabric to release a range of shoes and bags made from plastic bottles sourced from developing countries. The collection is set to be released in spring 2017 and uses materials collected from the streets and canals of Haiti and Honduras. “Any time we find an opportunity to create both environmental and social value, that’s a big win. And Thread does just that,” said Colleen Vien, director of sustainability, Timberland. Thread’s environmentally sustainable textiles have created clean neighbourhoods and jobs for thousands of people in the developing world, making it a harmonious business partnership for Timberland, who have a history of community work in Haiti. “Working together transparently, we’re able to look beyond recycled materials toward the rich social impact consumers care about and the stories that bring beautiful products to life,” said Ian Rosenberger, chief executive officer, Thread.

BROWNE TAKES HOME CFDA AWARD

The award for this year’s CFDA Menswear Designer of the year has been awarded to Thom Browne, who beat out both Rag & Bone and Public School.

DOWNTOWN LUXURY

As the annual spend on menswear continues to grow, a new luxury menswear designer has made Auckland his home to satiate the market and dress up the men in the city. The historic Buckland Building in Auckland’s CBD now plays host for Edward von Dadelszen, the designer behind E. von Dadelszen, which offers an appointmentonly service centred on the concept of luxury.

“I make collections for people who I find incredibly attractive; the modern, the brave, the smart – people who are in charge of their lives. I’m inspired by the dualities that exist in life and my clothing lives to dress these circumstances, fantasies and relationships,” said Edward von Dadelszen, founder and designer, E. von Dadelszen. Through the boutique, clients have access to an array of expertly selected fabric sourced from around the world to be translated into Dedelszen’s bespoke creations.

NEW FACE FOR PRADA

MENSWEAR ON THE RISE

MENSWEAR ON THE STREETS

Oscar-winning actor Eddie Redmayne has been announced as the new face of Prada’s menswear line. Redmayne was photographed by Craig McDean, modelling the labels winter range. Before transitioning into acting, Redmayne worked as a model and had previously featured in campaigns for Burberry.

His affinity towards fashion has landed Redmayne on multiple best-dressed lists, with GQ voting him the best dressed British man two years running.

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MINUTES WITH Elliot Pollard

In celebration of London Collections Men, Jermyn Street was transformed into an open-air runway showcasing 30 brands over four shows. Notable brands included New & Lingwood, Turnbull & Asser, and John Smedley, drawing the attention of VIP guests including David Gandy, Jim Chapman, Hu Bing, Caroline Issa and Dylan Jones. “London Collections Men is one of the most influential moments on the global menswear calendar and it’s fabulous we can share this with the public on Jermyn Street once again. St James’s is the ideal setting with its combination of heritage brands and contemporary fashion labels,” said Dylan Jones, chief executive, London Collections Men. The Crown Estate has continued its investment in the area, bringing over 70,000 square foot of retail space, offices and restaurants to St James’s.

“The show goes from strength to strength, as it grows more popular each year with brands and visitors to St James’s. It reflects both the unique heritage of St James while offering an insight into the future of menswear in London,” said Anthea Harries, St James’s portfolio manager, The Crown Estate.

Having been in the industry for over 50 years, Elliot Pollard has turned his lifelong passion into an ongoing family business that now includes his son, Ryan.

When the store Pollard ran had a change of ownership, he thought to himself it was time to bite the bullet and venture out on his own, seeking financial support from Marac and opening Pollards Menswear.

“As a young man with three small children that proved to be a challenge. With the support from major companies like Cambridge, Rembrandt, Amblers, and Lichfield we opened up the doors on August 18th,

A recent study of the UK apparel market has indicated menswear sales are growing faster than that of womenswear. Market intelligence agency Mintel reported a 4.1 percent increase in the men’s clothing sales totalling £14.1billion as opposed to the 3.7 percent increase in womenswear sales. “In response to men showing a greater interest in their

appearance, retailers are expanding menswear ranges, and more designers are debuting men’s clothing collections. As a result, the menswear market is reaping the rewards and growing at a faster rate than womenswear,” said Tamara Sender, senior fashion analyst, Mintel.

Mintel’s research also showed that young men are more likely to purchase clothes in-store than young women, alongside a 4 percent increase in young male’s utilising online shopping channels, with 74 percent of men aged 16-24 buying something online in 2015.

1980,” said Pollard. In 1998 Pollard won the national menswear week contest, which sent him to Las Vegas to visit the world’s biggest men’s fashion fair at the time before being judged best retail business in the Rotorua business awards in 1994.

“Technology has made huge inroads on all businesses; window shopping has changed from family trips to town to mobile devices. Computers, tablets, and cell phone screens are the new windows. However, while online shopping is big, people are using it to locate the product, compare it, and source physical stores to purchase from.”

Pollard is a firm believer in following your passion, explaining how with any industry, a passion for what you do will always outshine the job for money attitude.

Fashion is an ever-changing industry and specifically in menswear; the customer is demanding a selection that is appropriate for the ‘now’ which is an area that Ryan has come on board to develop. “Ryan has been in the business for 14 years and driven our move forward into our new location, and used the opportunity to develop the younger market alongside the ever enduring classic range very successfully. We all grow older, but our businesses should not.”

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SMART JACKET

Digital giant Google has partnered with denim label Levi’s to develop a high-tech jacket that incorporates new touch sensitive fabric technology. The technology, pioneered by Google, has been implemented in a jacket from Levi’s Commuter range and is capable of basic phone control by recognising various gestures that link up with a sensor in the jacket’s cuff. While the button sized “smart-tag” used to connect to your phone via Bluetooth will need to be removed before washing, metal fibres sewn into the jacket are completely washable. Levi’s plans on selling the jacket both in store and online by 2017, with Google in talks about bringing the technology to other apparel labels.

ONLINE BUY AND SELL

DATING APP FASHION SHOW

The British Fashion Council and Decoded Fashion has awarded the men’s dating app Grindr with a Beyond the Runway award for most engaging fashion week campaign at the Fashion Futures Awards. The award comes as a result of J.W. Anderson’s decision to stream his fall men’s 2016 collection live on Grindr in an attempt to capture the audience in a creative way. In explaining why he chose Grindr, Anderson explained “we’re all humans, so we all have to be somewhat sexually attractive to someone. That’s the name of the game, with clothing.”

Other winners at the Fashion Futures Awards included Snapchat for the Tech Visionary award, ASOS for innovative consumer experiences, and Semaine for best e-commerce launch.

8 I June 2016

LUXURY SOUND

Having already established itself as a lover of music through the employment of a full time music team to produce both its own apple music radio station and its runway tracks, alongside its ongoing collaborations with different music icons including James Bay and Elton John. Burberry has gone the step further and collaborated with Bowers & Wilkins to create a case for its most stylish speaker, the T7 Gold Edition. The case is typically Burberry, available in either black embossed bridle leather or tan suede, finished with the brand’s logo in gold. Four Burberry acoustic musicians also had a hand in recording live EPs available exclusively through the Society of Sound, Bowers & Wilkins’ music subscription service.

Peer-to-peer buy and sell site Poshmark has raised $25million in funding led by GGV Capital. Alongside the cash injection, Hans Tung the managing partner at GGV has joined Poshmark’s board of directors. Since its launch five years ago, the site has amassed over 1.5million sellers, finding a niche in the apparel market for second hand items. “One in 50 women in America have opened up their closet on Poshmark. We have implemented social commerce in a way that’s never been done,” said Manish Chandra, founder and chief executive officer, Poshmark. As the company continues to grow, Chandra said it would look at expanding into menswear and childrenswear categories. “Shopping on Poshmark is kind of like going to the mall with your girlfriends, except you never have to leave your house. Since we’ve invested in the company, they’ve grown 40x,” said Pravin Vazirani, managing director, Menlo Ventures. Because none of the stock is owned by Poshmark, the company has been able to run at lower costs in comparison to other second hand fashion services.

CHOUPETTE GETS DYSON DIFFERENCE

It could be said that beauty trends are getting right up there on the strange scale especially with the latest attempt by nail artist Cristine Rotenberg. The Youtuber was challenged by her fans and followers to paint her nails with every single nail polish colour she owns. The result? Think bubble nails but three-dimensional. It took Rotenberg 12 hours to complete and took almost as long to remove. Just hours later followers on Instagram were trying to re-create the look themselves.

SUPPORTING LIQUIDITY AND GROWTH

Trilogy International Limited (TIL) and The Business Bakery has announced a $50 million Capital Raising.

Through a placement, Trilogy will raise $20 million and The Business Bakery will sell $30 million of shares. Equity raised under the placement and share purchase plan will be used to repay debt, providing Trilogy International with increased capacity to accelerate long term brand market development and fund acquisition opportunities.

The company has also announced its intention to pursue an ASX Foreign Exempt Listing with the company expected to commence trading on the ASX in the second half of this year.

“Given the substantial size of the Australian market and our growing brand presence, Australia is the largest near term opportunity for our business,” said CEO Angela Buglass.

“Concurrently, we are seeing increasing interest from Australian investors. An ASX listing is a logical strategic move for the company.

TIL is a cultivator of essential natural products and home fragrance brands including Trilogy, ECOYA and Goodness in New Zealand and around the world.

MODEL TALKS Emma Boyd

Despite the first ever Dyson hairdryer being unavailable in Europe, France’s most fashionable feline has already got her paws on one. Designer Karl Largerfeld’s cat, Choupette Largerfeld is currently enjoying her own Dyson Supersonic hairdryer after the Dyson team were contacted by ‘Karl’s people’.

With its significantly quieter motor, this may be the answer to those pets that aren’t so much a fan of the hairdryer. For those who would like to add this new technology into their pets’ beauty regime, the price tag is a mere NZD$600.

BLENDING IN WITH BENEFIT COSMETICS

Producers of the iconic egg-shaped sponge have confirmed that the brand BeautyBlender will soon be teaming up with Benefit Cosmetics in a new venture. Despite both brands’ not spilling on details, the rumour mill is spinning that a coral hue of the sponge might be on the horizon. BeautyBlender is also set to collaborate with top beauty brand Too Faced later in the year.

FIRST PERFUME IN 70 YEARS

Global luxury brand Louis Vuitton has announced that it will be launching a bottle of fragrance, having not sold a bottle of perfume in the last 70 years. The bottle design is yet to be revealed, but perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud has been charged with bottling the essence of the brand in what promises to be an exotic, rare and floral fragrance and also one of the world’s biggest launches this year. “Since its founding, the Maison Louis Vuitton has always been inspired by far flung destinations and driven to accompany voyagers wherever they travel,” according to the brand’s website. Master perfumer Belletrud, a native of Grasse, the birthplace of both perfume and leather craftsmanship, spent months travelling the world in search of inspiration. Breathing the fragrance of exotic places and rare materials, he has created Les Parfums Louis Vuitton, a journey of emotions. The perfume will be available from September 2016.

Emma Boyd was scouted at the young age of 15 when one of her mother’s friends encouraged her to reach out to an agency. Just three short years later, she is signed with modelling agencies all over the globe including; Priscilla’s Model Management in Sydney, Bravo Tokyo, Why Not Model Management in Milan and her mother agency Clyne Models in Auckland.

This is the first year Boyd is not attending school or university so that she can give modelling a real shot and travel freely for overseas work.

In May, Boyd walked for a couple of shows in Sydney for MBFW and said her favourite was Oscar De La Renta. The same show is now in Boyd’s top list of achievements. “It was the most beautiful show I’ve done, and I can’t explain the rush I got pre and post show,” explained Boyd. In the short time that she has been working, Boyd has modelled for a vast range of brands and publications with Black Magazine, Fashion Quarterly, Remix and Marie Claire already under her belt. She believes the best part of modelling is learning to look after your body.

“It’s your job to look the best you can, I’m

BUBBLE EYELINER TREND

Just when everyone thought they mastered the winged line, a new eyeliner trend has emerged, the bubble eyeliner. Makeup artist and beauty blogger Jenny Gonzalez is thought to be behind this budding trend that adds small ridges or bubbles to the traditional winged liner drawn at the top of the lash line. Despite looking rather intricate, this trend seems to be slightly easier to master than others.

notorious for treating myself to facials,” says Boyd.

Initially she was drawn to the glamorous lifestyle of a model, but now says she was very wrong about that.

Her key advice for any new faces wanting to get into the modelling industry is to always be yourself and show your personality, no matter what. “That goes a long way as a model,” she said.

Candice Swanepol is one of the models that inspires Boyd. She loves how Swanepol pushes the boundaries with her curves and body type. Anja Rubik is also on Boyd’s watch list, “she just seems like a cool chick, not to mention her style,” she said. Although she admits she never really had a dream job in mind, Boyd is very excited to see where modelling takes her. The eighteenyear-olds’ ultimate goal is to be working in New York and land a big campaign.

In many ways, the fashion industry a lot larger overseas, but Boyd believes that New Zealand does amazingly well considering just how small we are.

“Everyone you meet in this industry is unique. We have some very talented creatives, and I’m always so proud to introduce myself as a kiwi,” said Boyd.

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I9

Celebrating Excellence We are driven to excellence ensuring the highest standards of quality and efficacy.

The ‘BEEBIO Monaco Formula 1 Party’ was a special celebration for BEEBIO the brand, the products and the excellence for which we stand. Luxury, Quality & Performance.

We were delighted to be joined for the evening by many friends and brand partners luxury car maker ASTON MARTIN and exceptional New Zealand designer KAY GOSS. Two wonderful brands committed to the same ethos as BEEBIO – Excellence.

Celebrate the Special.

Striving for perfection and surpassing the highest standards is challenging, but there is no greater satisfaction than producing New Zealand’s finest 100% natural luxury skin care range.

BEEBIO has a significant point of difference and we should celebrate it and shout about it!

Life is a myriad of choices and the world of cosmetics is no different. You have to differentiate and separate what is genuine, what is not, and what is just a case of the ‘emperor’s new clothes’? Just because a crème contains Manuka or Bee Venom does not mean it contains enough of it or the right percentages in the correct formulation to be topically effective on your skin For BEEBIO Advanced Skincare our difference is excellence. Everything we do and every product we create is about being genuinely the best. We use the best highest quality ingredients and manufacture in New Zealand to the highest world standards. We genuinely believe it is ‘the best beauty product to ever touch your skin’.

BEEBIO Advanced Skincare was born from more than $20 Million in medical research, scientifically proving the remarkable healing benefits of Manuka Honey. The BEEBIO Manuka formulation in all products is the same as used in advanced wound care and surgical trauma units. Manuka Honey is highly sort after for its ability to stimulate new skin cell production. Our sister company Watson & Son are world leaders in production of Manuka surgical dressings and advanced wound care treatments.

BEEBIO Advanced Skincare is spectacularly distinct when we get down to the essence of the product. We use nothing less than 16+ Medical Grade Manuka Honey and we only use the finest pure Bee Venom and pure Royal Jelly, all from our own hives. We also use powerful natural active botanicals and all our active ingredients come from New Zealand.

Our formulas are proprietary, require higher volumes of active Manuka Honey and Bee Venom, and along with the other key pure actives, have proven independent scientific validation, part funded and supported by the New Zealand Ministry of Science & Innovation.

The event also marked the launch of a world first in volcanic deep cleansing mud masks.

Specifically designed for modern city living, to remove pollutants collected on the skin and in skin pores. LAVA Rotorua White Mud Masque is another BEEBIO breakthrough and a perfect addition to the overall range offering a deep nurturing cleanse.

Put simply, BEEBIO Advanced Skincare is the real deal. A no compromise genuine luxury.

Best in class by far!

Medical Grade Manuka Honey is a natural anti-inflammatory, natural antibiotic, antioxidant and a natural humectant. Every BEEBIO Advanced Skincare product only uses the best.

BEEBIO Advanced Skincare is about preservation of skin health, youth and enhancing your own personal beauty. Look the best you can at whatever your age.

BEEBIOSKIN.COM

BEEBIO ACTIVE MANUKA HONEY & WHITE MUD MASQUE. DEEP PORE CLEANSE, DETOXIFY AND PURIFY.

‘Preservation’ by BeeBio is a natural multi-functional anti-aging skincare range. Created and produced in New Zealand using only the finest medical grade Manuka Honey, pure Bee Venom and native New Zealand botanicals. BeeBio proprietary formulations have highly effective anti-aging and youth enhancing benefits. BeeBio is the highest quality Manuka Honey and Bee Venom skincare product, using higher volumes of effective active ingredients.

Available from T Galleria, East Side Studio 09 379 2706, Life Pharmacy Eastridge 09 528 6062, Aotea Gifts 09 379 5022, www.jtb.co.nz/beebio and leading retailers.

www.beebioskin.com

Thigh-High

Drop what you think about trashy thigh-high boots and their illustrious past, there is a high-fashion movement that is bringing the style to a classy level.

It wouldn’t be out of the question to consider the boot a winter staple, and paired with the right pants or skirt; the fashion-forward thigh-high boot is fast becoming the latest key piece.

Consider the black suede Gianvito Rossi over-the-knee boots, a simple yet effective boot with a manageable heel for any urban environment. The key is to pair the boot with a coat or skinny jean, avoiding excess exposed skin, cementing its status as a winter essential.

Roberta Bentelar, founder and

managing director at Avenue32.com, shared her pearls of wisdom on the topic saying “not to wear anything tight on the top half. Anyone of any age can wear them. It just depends which overthe-knee boots you choose.”

While a majority of the offering is in suede, the newer and more quality styles of the fabric have overcome the tendency to wrinkle and bag, leaving the wearer confident the shoe will look good for a longer time.

International retailer Marks and Spencer chimed in saying “the

over-the-knee boot has gathered real momentum this season, mainly because of the popularity of the A-line skirt.

Worn with a flared midi, the kneehigh boot channels the 70s aesthetic beautifully and provides an elegant alternative to trousers in the winter months.”

The trick is not to look at the shoe as the centrepiece of an outfit, but rather an item to be used as an enhancer for the pieces already in the wardrobe.

NAGSUN APPAREL FIJI LTD We specialize in the following products: • Swim Wear • Cycling Wear • Merino Wool Garments • School Uniforms • Fit & Formal Wear • Casual Shirts & Blouses • Casual Knitted Garments We are a 100% export oriented manufacturing company based in Nadi, Fiji Islands. Our commitment is to provide superior quality garments within short delivery times whilst focusing on customer satisfaction at all times.

We specialize in the following products:

We are a 100% export oriented manufacturing company based in Nadi, Fiji Islands.

• School Uniforms • Swim Wear • Merino Wool Garments • Cycling Wear • Fit & Formal Wear • Casual Shirts & Blouses • Casual Knitted Garments

Our commitment is to provide superior quality garments within short delivery times whilst focusing on customer satisfaction at all times.

For further information please feel free to contact us at:

22 Thames St, Napier 4110 Ph: 06 835 9662

12 I June 2016

For further information please feel free to contact us at:

Nagsun Apparels Fiji Limited Nadi, Fiji Islands

Nagsun Apparels Fiji Limited Navakai, Nadi, Fiji Islands Email info@nagsun.com.fj Web www.nagsunapparelfiji.com

Email: Kritika@nagsun.com.fj or Ph: +679 6701 396 www.nagsunapparelfiji.com

behind the business

FASHIONING A STRONG BRAND NAME

By Colleen Cavanagh, Partner, AJ Park

A trade mark is the legal term for what you might think of as a ‘brand’ – the name of your business, product or service. Trade marks distinguish one trader’s goods and services from the rest, so they are important assets.

If you are launching a new fashion or clothing label, some early planning on how you choose and protect your trade marks will safeguard you in the future, and avoid potential legal pitfalls.

HERE ARE OUR TOP TIPS FOR FASHIONING A STRONG BRAND. Don’t fall in love too fast

It’s easy to become attached to a brand name. Before you commit to using a new trade mark, it’s wise to make sure no-one else is using it or has registered it as a trade mark otherwise you could be at risk of infringing their rights. A trade mark expert can perform a thorough availability search, and identify any obstacles your new mark might face.

Be different: Choose something distinctive. It will be easier to register and enforce. Avoid names that describe the goods you provide or that are used generically in the industry. For example, ‘Silk+Merino’ or ‘Corporate Chic’.

Although it’s tempting to pick a mark that tells consumers exactly what the product or service does, these kinds of marks are tough to assert ownership of.

Register your trade mark: Registering your mark with the Intellectual Property Office of New Zealand (IPONZ) will cost you a few hundred dollars, but it’s worthwhile. It asserts ownership of that brand, and acts as a defence against trade mark infringement proceedings from other traders. It also enables you to bring infringement proceedings against anyone using your mark without permission. Registrations last 10 years and can be renewed indefinitely.

Same name, different trade: Trade mark registrations are classified according to what goods and services they cover. If you use your trade mark in relation to clothing, you would register it in class 25. It pays to think about where

and how else you may wish to use your trade mark before deciding which classes to seek registration in.

Keep a paper trail: If someone challenges your trade mark, or tries to

prevent you from using it, your chances of success may come down to the records you keep. Often in legal proceedings over trade marks, it’s crucial to establish who first used a particular mark, and whether their mark has a reputation in New Zealand.

Records of when you started using your trade mark, how much you have spent each year on advertising it, and how many sales you’ve made of products using the associated mark, are all valuable pieces of information.

Use it or lose it: It’s fine to register a trade mark even if you haven’t

started using it yet. But if you don’t use it in New Zealand within three years of its registration date, your mark can become vulnerable to revocation.

Protect your mark overseas: A New Zealand trade mark registration only protects your mark in New Zealand. If you plan to export overseas, check whether you will be free to use the same mark in your other countries of interest – and ideally register your mark overseas. Since every country has different trade mark laws, it is worth consulting an expert before filing overseas trade mark applications.

Register your brand name and logo: A trade mark registered in plain block letters, with no stylisation or pictorial elements, gives you protection over those letters or words in whatever font or colour you may use. In contrast, protecting a logo or stylised word mark gives you protection for the visual elements of that mark.

To achieve maximum protection, it is best to register both separately.

Defend your patch: If you become aware of someone else using a trade

mark that is the same or very similar to yours, in connection with goods or services like yours, seek help from a trade mark lawyer. If you don’t assert your trade mark rights, and instead allow others to use your trade mark, you may find it difficult to stop them later on. A carefully-worded letter alerting them to your trade mark can often nip the problem in the bud.

iP is about making the impossible possible If you’ve got a standout brand to protect talk to AJ Park today.

Coffee’s on us.

Colleen Cavanagh Partner +64 9 356 7679 colleen.cavanagh@ajpark.com

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I 13

KARMA

ALEXANDER THOMSON

James McDonald and Matthew Arbuckle are both very hands on creatives. McDonald is a musician and engineer while Arbuckle is an actor and artist. McDonald’s training was very mechanical, and he attended University pursuing an engineering degree and aims to bring more aesthetic into the work he completes which he says is very difficult, but extremely rewarding. One of McDonald’s first projects and first startup was a redesigned ‘walker’ for people who suffer from Cerebral Palsy.

Arbuckle’s studies were slightly less formal as he trained to be an actor, writer and artist by trade. Although he has a much less linear creative process, both agree that it seems to be perfect for their applications and outlets.

McDonald and Arbuckle have a passion for the vintage clothing market and hope to contribute to the rock ‘n’ rollers and other artists of the current generation. McDonald said that he was interested in typical fashion trends and spent many of his university lectures on Lookbook. nu, but is unsure if he is in fashion yet. As a Lego kid, he always enjoyed spending his spare time on creative projects that gave him some fulfillment. “In later years music was the creative outlet, and still is, but I’ve recently found the startup and design lifestyle very enjoyable and exhausting,” explained McDonald.

Alexander Thomson was named as a combination of Arbuckle’s middle name and his grandfather’s old business partnership. The two design and work with some great manufacturers who source sustainable resources and say they are happy to let the experts do what they do best. They have also collaborated with local designers to get some brand work and drawing refinement, but the majority of this is done in-house.

The pair tends to look backwards for inspiration, each of the designed frames was heavily influenced by icons who wore similar styles such as Bob Dylan, Andy Warhol and James Dean. “It’s very easy to see the authenticity these people promote and the aesthetic direction of eyewear and accessories that we should aim for,” McDonald explained.

The duo plans to finish up the final touches on their online store and then push sales through that avenue. “We’ve got a handful of retail stockists interested in getting some of our collection on their shelves,” said Arbuckle.

They are currently focusing on refining the product range, extending the frame and lens options and building the brand culture. Arbuckle is in Europe looking at possible new partnerships and retail deals with a group of motorcycle and vintage clothing stores.

14 I June 2016

New Zealand fashion photographer Adam Bryce found his passion for fashion from an early age, reading his mother’s Vogues when he was just ten years old. He quickly became obsessed with magazines, “I think it was because we lived so far away from the fashion world,” Bryce explained. From 13, Bryce says he was heavily influenced by Zambesi and the idea of standing out.

“I grew up pretty poor in a really bad neighbourhood in South Auckland, but I went to intermediate and high school at schools in much fancier areas with kids who had money.

I found that fashion was a way to hide that I was a poor kid and fit in in my way,” said Bryce.

After he started styling and attending fashion school was when he wanted to start making clothes, simply because he didn’t have access to the clothes he wanted. Even though Bryce is 90 percent photographer, he will still do a little bit of creative directing when it is the right project. “I was a stylist, who became a creative director who then became a photographer, which is what I do now,” he said.

Bryce remembers buying a Margiela book which taught him how to turn a few pairs of socks into a sweater and found it was pretty easy. Ironically, he then attended a fashion school and found it was not easy at all. When he left there, he studied law, hated it and moved again to AUT to study a year long fashion programme.

The year was a success and quickly applied to St Martins in London where he then studied, but never finished. “I never finished that however, as I wanted to be a stylist, so I left and met people and just started working,” he explained.

Bryce aims to promote Karma as an anti-brand, which values having fun, the idea of not being seasonal and not being a ‘brand’. “It comes from a philosophy around merchandise rather than fashion,” said Bryce. A lot of the collection uses already existing garments, either just printed on or customised, “I don’t want to reinvent the t-shirt someone already did that,” he said.

Bryce plans to release a couple of garments every couple of weeks and wants customers to grab something and have fun with it. Rather than have to think about their purchase and ends up with consumers taking it all a bit too seriously. “If you buy a $1600 Vetements hoodie, you have to think about whether that’s worth it - but with Karma I want to avoid that,” explained Bryce.

Currently, he has sold out of two runs of everything and is planning to sell to a few select retailers around the globe. The collection can be found at the Eugenie store in Ponsonby, Auckland along with one of his other projects Victory Books.

GRIZZLY BEAR

Eddie Turkington is not your typical fashion designer.

The self-proclaimed geek/entrepreneur believes his skill lie in e-commerce and creating online businesses. The Wellingtonian left home at 16 to study in Auckland, but after one short year, he moved back. “I studied several different things at uni including Law, Arts and Information Technology,” Turkington explained. After six years of studying, he snagged a job in Info Tech at a big corporate company as a project manager. From here is where he progressed more into online retail. Several years later he decided that all the red tape and pointless meetings weren’t for him and travelled around Asia for a couple of months before moving to Melbourne.

“That’s where I got into a small web design and online marketing agency. I then progressed on to an e-commerce development firm as a project team leader and dealt with some of Australasia’s largest retail brands,” he said. After a bit more travel, Turkington decided it was time

to pursue his dreams and created Grizzly Bear. He also is the Managing Director for 8 Wire Digital, an Auckland-based e-commerce agency.

Fashion has always interested Turkington, although he does not consider himself to be very fashionable.

He says his interest in fashion sparked while he was living in Melbourne working with some of the fashion stores. Grizzly Bear aims to create quality products that last. “I hate buying tees that become extinct after one cycle through the washing machine,” said Turkington.

Eco-friendly business practice and using material that is friendly to the environment is hugely important to the brand as well. Turkington believes that online services are an essential part of any business. The brand is relatively new and has a team of four working together, and Turkington said he has to wear a few different hats which typical with most small businesses.

Taking baby steps, he is planning to bring some more brands on board, have a pop-up style store and potentially make a few appearances at some markets and festivals over the next 6-12 months.

CREEPS & VIOLETS

Growing up in the heart Wanaka, Stephanie Miller has lived in Dunedin ever since she moved there for high school. Growing up, her mother was passionate about sewing, and Miller even tried her best to make her dresses. “I always knew I wanted to do something creative,” she said.

The first piece of jewellery she ever made were a particular pair of earrings that she used to sell at the local school fairs. After high school, Miller studied fashion at Otago Polytechnic and jumped at the opportunity to do some jewellery courses.

“They were really accommodating, and I made a jewellery range for my graduate collection,” explained Miller. She quickly fell in love with making jewellery and although she is mostly self-taught, she also learned a lot from the training at university and a couple of local jewellers.

Miller’s favourite part of the job is that every day is different and because she runs Creeps & Violets by herself, she gets to see every aspect of the business. Each piece in the collection is handmade in Dunedin, which is something Miller values in her practice. “I couldn’t use manufacturers as I think it’s pretty special that each piece is unique due to the handmade nature of it,” Miller said.

Creeps & Violets is a label that is very much into making jewellery that is ready to be worn every day and ride through life with the wearer. The brand focuses on the consumer having fun with accessorising and each piece always seems to have 1990’s influence.

Creeps & Violets is currently stocked on their online store and in Slick Willys, 47 Frocks, Moi Design, Trouble and Fox, The Service Depot and Silencewas & Co. Although she is already stocked in multiple stores, Miller plans to expand into the international market.

TWO BOUTIQUE Mandy Randall was looking for a change after a working as a director of a nanny agency and applied for a job at a small shop in Herne Bay. Born in London, she made the big move to New Zealand 15 years ago and landed in Ponsonby.

When it comes hands-on experience in the fashion world, Randall made a Bohemian Aztec elastic waisted skirt in Year 5 in Primary School. “It looked good in my head I swear, but I haven’t picked up a sewing instrument since – I’ll leave it to the experts,” explained Randall.

She also has experience apprentice hairdresser, she would attend hair shows in London and had to dress up the models. “I chose punk rock, ripped up jeans, biker jackets and bright blue hair,” explained Randall.

At TWO Boutique, one of Randall’s core ethics is to create an incredible customer experience. Randall and her team love making people from all walks of life feel looked after and look fantastic.

“One of the reasons why I love retail so much is building relationships with

my customers, we love our regulars!” exclaimed Randall.

Kate Sylvester, Maurie & Eve, Ben Sherman, Vanishing Elephants and Camilla & Marc are just a few of the labels stocked at TWO Boutique. The buying process for Randall is another highlight of owning the boutique. “I look for beautifully crafted garments that I could see lasting in someone’s wardrobe for years ahead,” she said. Randall has a soft spot for textures, claiming that the feel of the garment also plays a huge part.

The store is currently run by Randall and her ‘shop floor goddess’ Alana.

Randall recently acquired Heavenly Soles, a shoe store across the road from TWO Boutique in Matakana Square. She plans to have a couple of collaborations coming up shortly between the two stores. Although TWO Boutique is Randall’s first store, she has managed multiple retails stores in the past including TWO Boutique, Heavenly Soles and Divine Goddess.

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I 15

colour trending

Fashion is consistently referential of various time periods, with the gun-slinging cowboy culture of the 19th Century Western Americans in the spotlight this season.

Think back to iconic figures including Gene Autry and Roy Rogers, who reinterpreted aesthetic themes of the pioneers, mountain men, and the Civil War to create a modernday cowboy image that can be seen penetrating the high-end runway shows.

The western influence runs deep in the Dolce & Gabbana show, with designer Stefano Gabbana looking to the vistas of Sergio Leone’s spaghetti Westerns for inspiration. Western motifs of six-shooters, cacti, wagons, cowboy hats, horsemen, and lassos adorned garments throughout the collection with a series of embroidered patches. For example, the double denim combination which resembles a colour most akin to Resene Explorer.

Fausto Puglisi has established himself as a designer who creates performance pieces, and this season is no change. The direction for this season, however, is somewhat different, with Puglisi making an active effort to incorporate everyday trends and wearability as a core concept in his design practice. The result is a collection that inadvertently tied in subtle western patterns mixed with conceptual digital print designs. This jacket, in a colour similar to Resene Quarter Alabaster, is the closest tie to the western trend, using metallic studs and the boot spurs motif to

Dolce & Gabbana Resene Explorer

16 I June 2016

Fausto Puglisi Resene Quarter Alabaster

achieve a distinctive masculine effect – not to mention the blatant use of cowboy boots throughout the collection.

Manish Arora also used the same western pattern ideas and paired them with cowboy boots. This oversized jacket in a colour relatable to Resene Sakura served as the perfect canvas for the heavily detailed vest that sits on top of it. Overall the entire outfit is a platter of western patterns, details and signatures, once again being paired with the classic cowboy boot.

Heading in a different direction, Mary Katrantzou used western patterns and contrasted them against not only modern fabrics but modern digital print technology.

The leather jacket is an interesting mix of cowboy and biker paired with the fashion forward micro-pleated, digital print skirt and tied together by the use of light blue akin to Resene Skydiver, which appears on both.

Republican candidate Donald Trump’s campaign motto “Make America great again,” implies that the country is no longer the star-spangled super-power it once was. Jeremy Scott took this as an opportunity to remind fashion followers of the great periods American fashion has had, taking the audience on a journey through key stylistic periods, western included. Denim, disco, punk, cowboys morphed into a collection that paid tribute to the country’s history, a theme that is in perfect alignment

Gucci Resene Half Bokara Grey

Jeremy Scott Resene Quickstep

with Scott’s over-the-top design aesthetic. While fringe and leather is a clear western derivative, the introduction of bubble gum pink similar in colour to Resene Quickstep on the otherwise normal cowboy boots is where the audience can see historical moments collide.

While double denim is not usually considered formal, Demna Gvasalia, the creative director for the collaborative fashion brand Vetements, looked at what would be considered formal in the world of western fashion and reimagined it in his avantgarde vision. The pop of red, which is similar to that of Resene Blaze, stopped what could have been a boring, oversized denim jacket from being lost amongst the other outrageous silhouettes that also showcased on the runway.

There is an aura of luxe that comes with every Gucci collection, a brand that has long been a top player in the luxury fashion scene. However, with the appointment of creative director Alessandro Michele, the brand has taken a new direction. The new selection situates itself somewhere between highbrow and low culture, allowing for experimentation with different silhouettes and pattern choices, which is evident in this animal print fur coat. What is interesting with animal inspired prints and furs, is the gradient of colours that appear. For example, the black is not just black; it incorporates a range of shades, one of them being parallel to Resene Half Bokara Grey.

Manish Arora Resene Sakura

Mary Katrantzou Resene Skydiver

Maria Grazia Chiuri, one of the designers for Valentino, summed up the collection as a journey. “It’s about groups. About On the Road, Into the Wild. It’s about a trip around the world but also into yourself.” The collection drew close links to both cowboy culture and Indian-American heritage, appropriating various pattern designs from both. Much like the other designers, the Valentino show also used metallic detailing and used natural colours, like Resene Momentum, to keep the range grounded.

Colours available from

Resene ColorShops www.resene.co.nz

0800 737 363

Vetements Resene Blaze

Valentino Resene Momentum

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I 17

Showcase NZ

WALKER SOTECH MACHINERY ACQUIRES SEWINGTIME New Zealand’s number one supplier of industrial sewing, embroidery and textile machinery, Walker Sotech Machinery Ltd, has acquired equipment supplier Sewingtime NZ Ltd. In a market driven acquisition, Sewingtime will continue to operate as an entity under the Walker Sotech umbrella with both Auckland and Christchurch changing premises. The Christchurch location has relocated to new premises at 8 Stanley Street in Sydenham. The Auckland office has combined with Walker Sotech at 23 Fairfax Ave, Penrose.

“We are always looking at ways to expand and develop the business to ensure that both individuals and company customers can purchase top of the line equipment for their business anywhere in the South Pacific,” said Bruce Page, director. “Walker Sotech has grown steadily over the six years to become the leading supplier of equipment to the industry.”

The company now is the go-to distributor in the South Pacific region for the leading brands like Juki, Brother and Siruba, among many others as well as offering parts and servicing for new and used machinery. Both companies have long, and respected histories in the market and the transition will have positive outcomes for every one of our customers. “The team at Walker Sotech will continue to look to find innovation to bring to the industry.”

STITCHING TOGETHER PERFECTION Stitch Perfect quality apparel and soft goods are made ethically and sustainably in New Zealand. New owner, Fraser Wood has over ten years in the fashion industry both locally and internationally and brings an injection of fresh energy and integrity to the company’s well-established and experienced production team.

The company is much more than a CMT production service, with the knowledgeable team ready to work collectively with clients on sample development ensuring the most cost effective outcome and production simplicity. With productions minimums as low as five units and scalable to over 2000+ units per run and three week lead times, Stitch Perfect is a flexible facility responding to demands as needed.

Sewing specifications are bespoke and created per item to give the right quality finish, be specific to the items style and fabrics utilised. The bulk production follows in the same methodical manner, adjusting machinery with tensions and stitches specifically calibrated to the item being made, Stitch Perfect – every time.

If you have a great idea, some sketches or samples and are looking for help to

bring your concept to life, then contact Stitch Perfect to help transform your vision into reality. With environmentally sustainable and ethical manufacturing practices at the core of their values, the company provides transparency in its production process paying their employees fairly for their skilled labour and recycling waste.

Stitch Perfect protects the integrity of your brand by producing locally and to the highest quality standards. If you would like to bring your ideas to life, contact the team at Stitch Perfect, 09 576 7076 or www. stitchperfect.co.nz.

SLOW FASHION FOR BUSY LIVES As well known for their innovations as they are for the famous faces that wear their garments, New Zealand luxury lifestyle fashion brand Untouched World continues to lead the way when it comes to blending exquisite natural fabrics and fibres with cutting-edge technology. They have recently launched their exclusive Kapua and Cassum knitwear collections, that take softness, comfort and performance to a whole new level, and have been hailed by the likes of Joanna Lumley as ‘absolutely fabulous’. But what sets this brand apart are their sustainability credentials. We talked to CEO Peri Drysdale about how she strikes the balance between ethics, aesthetics and economics.

Drysdale’s goal from the outset has been to provide a premium quality product, while making a positive difference in the world. “We only work with suppliers whose values align with ours,” said Drysdale. “Quality and ethical, fair trade that is ecologically sound are non-negotiable. With most of our production done within New Zealand, we have a very transparent supply chain. Where we do work with overseas

suppliers, we only work with companies that provide their employees with good working conditions and a fair wage.”

The brand has a minimalist, less-is-more aesthetic and each piece is designed to multitask across people’s lives, to be easy care and easy on the earth. Drysdale has watched consumer needs change over time. “As our lives get busier, there’s a move towards slow fashion that can be effortlessly dressed up or down, and won’t be in one season and out the next. It’s not just all about looks and comfort either, and our clients also want to know the origins of what they’re wearing – what it’s made from and who made it.”

Untouched World is the first fashion company in the world to be recognised by the United Nations for sustainability. A percentage of all sales of Untouched World product go to the Untouched World Charitable Trust, which runs Leadership for a Sustainable Future programme for young people. For more information or to view the collection, go to www. untouchedworld.com.

Contact us now to discuss your needs.

Phone: +64 9 255 2560 I Mobile: 021 769 560 Email: john@dsl.co.nz I www.dsl.co.nz

18 I June 2016

Showcase NZ

A HISTORY OF QUALITY NZ MADE KNITWEAR With a vision to offer a broad range of quality, New Zealand made knitwear, lingerie, accessories and yarn manufactured in merino and merino possum, The Wool Company’s retail store just south of Taihape is one fashionable destination.

Despite being opened in 1988, the retail store’s founder Gordon Riach began as a wool buyer in 1958. Gordon

used his connections with several New Zealand spinning mills to purchase over runs of hand knitting yarn to ensure the continuity of knitting with wool, as at that time knitting wool was prohibitive for many knitters.

“Colours were limited, at one point we had 11 bales of pale blue and five bales of red. To spin and dye our yarn we needed more customers, so we set about expanding our database” said Margot Riach, managing director of The Wool Company. Just six years later, The Wool Company’s very first mail order

catalogue was for yarn was delivered to 500 customers, this number has since grown to over 30,000, alongside 15,000 subscribers to the website.

“To become global and offer ongoing sales to overseas customers visiting our store, we set up an online shopping site in 1999,” said Margot.

“We continue to make ongoing improvements to the site and expand this area of the business.”

Today, the store’s range continues to grow, as does the customer base. The family owned and operated business involvement in the New Zealand wool industry which spans more than 50 years and three generations, further instils the company’s passion for wool and commitment to the New Zealand wool and manufacturing industries and is reflected in the quality of the range

and selection of styles.

Only the very best New Zealand made garments and yarn are available online and in the retail store and as well as their own designs some of the key labels include Optimum, Lothlorian, Koru, Merino Mink, Noble Wilde and Silverdale.

The team at the store give every attention to detail and are committed to creating a friendly, inviting environment for customers to shop in. They are very knowledgeable about the offering as well as the benefits of wearing natural fibres. Margot said Our strengths lie in being supplying quality New Zealand made garments, backed up by excellent customer service.

If you would like more information contact The Wool Company on 06 388 1564.

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I 19

Showcase NZ

AN NEW COMBINATION OF INGREDIENTS

FerNZ is proud to present one if its most successful products, The Magic Protein Essence that combines the best ingredients derived from nature to improve the beauty of skin.

“We trust in Mother Nature’s wisdom to provide all we need,” said Jürgen Herbke, director of FerNZ. “So, we can turn to nature for all our beauty and personal care necessities too.”

FerNZs’ products are proud to be 100 percent made in New Zealand and offer the best of its ingredients all sourced purely and naturally by using an exclusive High Purification Technology to extract the most powerful and effective antioxidants and anti-aging agents, with an advanced active formula to improve skin’s appearance and health.

Magic Protein Essence is a multi-faceted approach to address the visible signs of ageing. It uses active compounds to nourish skin and ensure optimum

levels of skin hydration.

It contains Hyaluronic Acid that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, and it is this ability that allows it to help instantly to smooth skin and create more even skin tones.

An easily absorbed Collagen Peptide is included, this small molecule, Peptide helps to assist with the skins’ Collagen formation and has an effect on skin elasticity.

It also contains a special ingredient, bee venom, considered as a natural alternative to Botulinus Boxin, active bee venom stimulates facial muscles for a natural anti-aging effect on fine lines and wrinkles.

Bee venom is a unique multi-component complex that 18 biologically active compounds have been found to have pharmacological activity. The main groups of compounds are

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20 I June 2016

enzymes, peptides, aminos, sugars, phospholipids and volatiles.

New Zealand bee venom has the reported ability to stimulate the production of collagen that helps the skin stay firm and youthful.

No bees are hurt in the process of extracting its venom because the bees are stinging a piece of glass their abdomen remains intact and therefore the bee remains healthy and alive.

Finally, the Apple Stem Cells to assist to skins stem cells to regenerate skin tissue damage. It combats chronological ageing in the skin cell.

The extract has been shown to help skin stem cells maintain their characteristics and their capacity to build new tissues.

It also has been shown to delay ageing and have an anti-wrinkle effect. For more information contact service@fernz.co.nz.

Showcase NZ

FUNCTIONAL AND BEAUTIFUL AT BRIARWOOD

While launching Briarwood was a natural, and easy decision for founder Ange Marshall, the key to success is timing an opening perfectly for maximum market penetration.

Marshall’s time came last year when

she debuted only a handful of styles in-store, giving birth to the Briarwood brand.

Marshall’s philosophy is simple; the design needs to be both functional and beautiful, with the ability to transition from a busy day to a fun night. “The styling is simplistic, easy to wear and timeless. It is important for the fabrics to speak for themselves, all of which are non-synthetic and unique,” said Marshall. Like the majority of New Zealand’s designers, bags and shoes are forced to be produced offshore due to infrastructure constraints within New Zealand.

However, the clothing remains locally made, allowing for ease of access to change a small run to something larger or vice versa depending on demand. “We have longstanding relationships with both local and offshore suppliers who both share their support and enthusiasm, ultimately making the process easier.”

As for design, Briarwood avoids following a formula, opting to change with current mood and feel. “If something looks and feels right, it makes the cut. The flexibility is driven by an intense passion for making simple, beautiful things.”

RUNWAY TO NZ The top prize has been jointly awarded to a student from Massey University’s College of Creative Arts in a collaborative project between tertiary students from New Zealand and India.

Titled Runway to New Zealand, the project which focused on the theme of ‘Future World Connection’, brought together 12 fashion and textile students from New Zealand and India and was sponsored by Education New Zealand.

Massey students Yoshino Maruyama, Louise Watkins and Kristen Meaclem, as

well as students from AUT, were paired with students from India’s National Institute of Fashion Technology, and the Pearl Academy in India to produce outfits that celebrated fashion as a means of blending what is known and unknown, by connecting two worlds

TRIBUTE TO NEW ZEALAND

Professing her love for New Zealand, Liann Bellis has released its latest collection aptly named, The Patriot.

The collection plays on designer Lianne Greaves’ talent with tailoring, implementing clean lines and classic silhouettes throughout the range. As with her previous collections, The Patriot is designed to work with other garments, whether they are Liann Bellis designs or other wardrobe selections. Inspiration was drawn specifically from the surroundings of her hometown, in an almost nostalgic trip down memory lane for the designer who now has been living abroad for nine years.

“Print stories of botanical scenes, wildlife and displaced graphic patterns are all set in the natural uniform colours of black and white,” said Greaves. Having only launched in 2010, Greaves has already developed her a signature style and uses it to develop garments that are en vogue, with a strong following of loyal customers.

together. The work culminated in a catwalk show held at the Hyatt Regency in Delhi, with dignitaries, designers and media all in attendance. Students were required to use only sustainably sourced natural fibres made in India.

Winning Indian students received a two-week internship to participate in university classes in relevant fashion

SUPPORTING NZ MADE & NZ CONSERVATION

departments as well as the opportunity to experience New Zealand tourist attractions.

Massey University is responsible for producing some of New Zealand’s most recognised names including Kate Sylvester, Colette Dinnigan and Project Runway’s Sean Kelly. To see more visit, www.creative.massey.ac.nz.

WWW.CHALKYDIGITS.CO.NZ apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 21

Showcase NZ

NEW LUXURY CANDLES COLLECTION

New Zealand designer Amanda Alexander has launched a new luxury collection of candles. The new, beautiful range of vessels are made from carrara marble from Italy.

All of the candles are hand poured with soy wax in New Zealand and are available in a gorgeous range of fragrances including Cashmere Rose, Country Lodge, Almond Milk and Honey, and Vintage Suede.

Alexander has a love for fabric, fashion and design and after raising her family she opened her online boutique and started creating her own range of clothing and accessories. In a few months a new range called Pink Onyx will be added to the offering.

To become a stockist contact Amanda on Amanda@ amandaalexandercollections.com.

TRENDY KIDSWEAR

Owners of Kid Republic, Lisa Pomare and Cam Millar, started with very humble beginnings, living above their small shop in Wellington’s Newtown, the couple, who were expecting their first child, noticed a gap in the market and started selling second-hand baby-wear and furniture. Between a new baby, sourcing stock and the day-to-day running of the shop the couple managed to turn the store, Baby Star, into a great success and soon started stocking new brands at the request of their loyal customers.

Lisa and Cam discovered many great brands and were instrumental in supporting these fledgeling brands when they needed it most, including the now very popular brand, Minti. The store soon out grew itself and moved to a much bigger location on Adelaide Road just as the couple were due with baby number two! Baby Star became a Wellington institution and after many very successful years, Lisa and Cam decided to sell Baby Star so they could move away from primarily baby-focused products and into children’s fashion. They opened Kid Republic in 2007 in Wellington’s Thorndon Quay

and the second store in Auckland in 2011.

Kid Republic Auckland shifted from Newmarket’s Kent Street to Nuffield Street earlier this year to a much bigger store with parking out the front, making life a bit easier for parents shopping for their little ones. The new store boasts a much larger selection of the brands and products that Kid Republic customers love.

The family-run business is now run remotely from Mt Maunganui with the couple regularly visiting the stores and taking essential buying trips. Both Lisa and Cam have a keen eye for design and are expert buyers who know their customers extremely well.

Kid Republic continues to be a stable destination for parents and grandparents seeking high quality and on-trend children’s fashion.

Brands currently stocked at Kid Republic include Minti, Munster, Pretty Brave, Pop Factory, Carbon Soldier, Converse, Dr Martens, Walnut Melbourne, and Federation among many others. For more information or to contact visit www.kidrepublic. co.nz.

BESPOKE, TIMELESS AND SUSTAINABLE Celebrated for her bespoke tailoring and couture practice, Liz Mitchell is using her passion for sustainability and local production to create timeless pieces for a selection of loyal clients. “I am not about fast fashion, but rather slow fashion.

My garments are things people wear for five to ten years and continue to love,” said Mitchell. The focus is on quality, and as an ambassador for the Campaign for Wool, Mitchell takes every opportunity to spread the word about the importance of keeping our local wool industry alive and well. A small, innovative market has developed in New Zealand for quality yarn and clothing, with interesting fibre blends including merino, alpaca, possum, polworth and other sheep breeds being used to develop luxurious products that are both sustainable and long-lasting.

“There has been a boom in the use of poly-blends that claim to be something they are not. The importance of pure wool can’t be underestimated,” said Mitchell.

Mitchell explained how increased demand for fastfashion at a low price had led to the bastardization of wool as a common fabric. “You look around, and there is no wool to be seen.

You’ve got to stop and think about why we need so

22 I June 2016

many cheap stores when there are quality options that will last year in, year out,” said Mitchell. The wool industry shares the same narrative of fashion as an investment and is supported by a new generation of fashion designers who understand the impact fast-fashion is having on both the industry and the environment.

Jane Shand, a wool producer, based in Christchurch specialising in naturally coloured merino, shares the same views and has recently partnered with Mitchell to provide knitted and woven shawls of the finest quality, which Mitchell is excited to showcase to her customers.

Because of its high price point, the luxury tourism market has helped Mitchell build a new client base of international customers who are accustomed to spending more on quality. “There is an opportunity to develop a design-focused luxury lifestyle product, which the customers appreciate,” said Mitchell.

Showing no signs of slowing down, Mitchell, who was appointed a member of The New Zealand Order of Merit for services to the fashion industry, is calling for the government to listen to the needs of the industry. She hopes that moving forward it will do more to support local industry rather than focussing on exporting our top quality wool, leaving New Zealand with less than perfect fibre to work with.

C H A R L E S PA R S O N S FA S H I O N FA B R I C S AUTUMN / WINTER 2017

Book an appointment to see the range.

NZ toll-free: 0508 327 446 Tel: +64 9 969 7300 fashion@charlesparsons.co.nz www.charlesparsonsfashion.com

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I 23

Showcase NZ

COMMITTED TO NZ MADE AND NZ CONSERVATION Iconic NZ Fashion brand Chalkydigits has gone from strength to strength over the past five years; expanding their headquarters, opening their first flagship design store and now developing the conservation aspect of their company to include a fund for conservation groups who are working hard to save our endangered birds.

Having carved out a secure niche in the NZ lifestyle fashion market over their first decade, since the Christchurch quakes five years ago, Chalkydigits have amped up their presence in the NZ fashion industry. The opening of boutique retail complex The Tannery gave Chalkydigits the opportunity to bring their office, design and warehouse all under the same roof as well as bringing to fruition a long-held dream of opening their very first flagship design store.

This has enabled the Chalkydigits brand to further cultivate the ethical, locally made creative styles they are so passionate about by introducing a new line of merino knitwear for ladies, and stocking carefully selected brands of accessories, homewares and skincare to offer a complete shopping package to those who share their values of high-

quality, environmentally-conscious products.

With the growth, they’ve experienced from their shop and online store it has enabled them to embed fully their passion of saving our precious NZ native birds by earmarking considerable funds for conservation efforts directed towards boosting our native dawn chorus.

It’s not the first time Chalkydigits has flocked together with their fans to make a difference. In 2010 they mobilised their caring customers and together raised a substantial sum of money enabling them to fund the translocation of our South Island Robin back to ecosanctuary Chalky Island in Fiordland.

This helped to restore this slice of native paradise back to the diverse eco-system it was before the arrival of introduced pests.

Fuelled by the heart-warming success of this project, they went on to significantly boost the financial efforts of Kaharoa Kokako Trust to secure the future of our endangered kokako in the Kaharoa Forest and have sponsored many other, smaller projects – all with the aim of protecting our ailing birdlife. The deep love they feel for NZ’s fabulous natural environment has always

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24 I June 2016

been the inspiration for Chalkydigits seasonal collections and now they are putting into practise their firmly held belief of giving something back to this land that sustains and inspires them.

Chalkydigits support of NZ extends further to include collaborations with other creative kiwis in the design of the distinctive, original prints adorning their garments. Their prints often reflect the quirky flavour of kiwi humour and are infused with their love of our land.

Remaining NZ made is a continual, conscious commitment to support our local industry, not just as a nod to environmental concerns, but also

to enable new designers to fulfil their creative dreams too. The skill-sets of this industry are essential to self-sufficiency and self-expression, and Chalkydigits would love to see the future of manufacturing secured here at home, and are determined to do their bit to keep it alive and flourishing.

To cater for their growth, Chalkydigits is currently looking for like-minded folk to showcase their unique styles in key areas of New Zealand and Australia. If you love their gear, share their values and are interested in representing their unique brand in your boutique, please contact them on info@chalkydigits.co.nz.

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DESIGNER After finishing her fashion design degree at Massey University, ITZME designer Shuai Zhang, quickly transitioned into the industry landing a job at Karen Walker. Zhang’s time at the brand helped build her confidence enough to travel the world looking for inspiration from around the globe.

ITZME: SHUAI ZHANG

It was her international travels that influenced Zhang’s decision to launch her label, taking her experiences and channelling them into clothing that straddles the line between male uniformity, boyishness and femininity.

“I like to play on traditional tailoring elements from menswear coupled with a strong female personality and aesthetic to create a distinctive flair. ITZME is to be yourself,” said Zhang. Launched in 2013, ITZME has established itself as an immensely creative brand which flows from Zhang’s aesthetic vision coupled with the feedback of her customers.

“Customer’s feedback is crucial. It’s like a radar on a ship. It directs me toward the right direction.”

Each collection begins with Zhang’s self-discovery process, in which she meditates on an idea or an experience, turning the smallest concept into a fully realised collection. The results are often garments that incorporate innovation alongside current trends, using the two to work in synergy with each other to stand out from the crowd. Zhang continues her synergistic approach to design when bringing in fabric. Letting the fabric influence the pre-conceived designs, and the designs influence the fabric choice.

“The secret to business growth is to create a balance between creating the trend and following the trend. The balance between Yin and Yang.”

Zhang describes the typical ITZME customer as someone who has ambitions in breaking boundaries and strive for independence and freedom but appreciates simplicity and its subtle complexities.

“I believe in teamwork, being at the forefront of the brand can set the direction for the brand and allow our customers to understand what ITZME represents.”

Part of being at the forefront is recognising the growing concern surrounding sustainable fashion, a movement Zhang completely supports.

“Our generation is facing unprecedented social and environmental challenges.”

Technology can be a big aid in developing sustainable practices, with Zhang utilising technological ways to run the brand better. ITZME continuously encourages the implementation of new technology, utilising its ability to increase production speeds alongside opening new communication channels for customers.

“We communicate through all core social media platforms, adopting technology rather than resisting it.” It is no surprise then that e-commerce is a big focus for the brand, but the tradition of brick and mortar still hold value.

“ITZME is aiming to provide a shopping experience that cannot be rivalled by the convenience of online shopping.”

While the brand is still significantly new, Zhang is aiming to have national recognition within three years, before moving on to her 10-year goal of international recognition.

LUXURIOUS KNITWEAR AVAILABLE

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I 25

behind the business

INDUSTRY ACCORDING TO . . .

Amanda Betts

Ex Model Agent, Bridge The Gap Project Creator, Trustee, Rotarian, Facilitator

Before I start, I am going to apologise, particularly if you are under 25.

It’s easy to blame you, accusing you of desires for quick fixes, instant gratification, wanting something good to last longer than a few chews of a Snickers Bar (do you even know what that is?). We blame you for not understanding the pleasures of old-skool fashion. You call it ‘vintage’, we call it the second time around, again.

The 80s were ugly, over-the-top and so much fun. I loved modelling back then when lip liner was drawn on the outside of our lips to give us a ‘gently-blowingbubbles-through-slightly-parted-lips’ pout that’d put your duck-face selfies to

shame. Our hair was teased-to-terrified by using too much of the only ‘Black Death’ we knew - Silhouette Hairspray.

We created the gaping great hole in the ozone layer to ensure our hair never lost its shape by over spraying (that’s what I want to apologise for). Yes indeed, we sprayed and walked. But not away.

We worked that catwalk with snap turns so sharp, they could snap your head straight off your shoulder pads. We were in the time of the ‘Supers’. If you don’t know what that is, stop reading now.

The truth is, if I were a model in 2016, I wouldn’t have made it. I was tallish at 5’8”. I was striking…enough.

Nothing was a problem for me (my saving grace), I never complained. How could I when I was often getting paid more than the photographer (and he/ she was really skilled)? As a shorthaired, brunette wildcat who had suffered years of sexual, mental and emotional abuse, I didn’t give a rats about what others thought. I did win once against our wholesome ‘Rach’, though. But then she married Rod, and us mere mortal, potty-mouthed, edgier girls didn’t stand a chance (okay maybe it was only me who was like that...).

It was a calling greater than me when I chose to have my only child and figured out what was next in the career-

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stakes. It was really loud (the calling). It reminded me of when my waters broke (that wasn’t me): ‘You will become a model agent’. Wait, what…?

Wages were horrible, so I negotiated bonuses if my figures were good. After making $10K in a few months, I figured this selling ‘people’ gig could be my thing. I worked tirelessly, climbing the ranks the old fashioned way – good old hard work. I started at JDW, moved to Clyne, was lured by 62 until I wanted to start my own business and co-founded Red11 Models.

Eight and a half years later, and having built a top ten new face in the world as voted by Vogue.com in under a year of her modelling career. Building the likes of Zippora & Jasper Seven, Lili Sumner, Vinnie Woolston, Ngahuia Williams, Anmari Botha, Juliette Perkins, and more. Amongst this and even convincing KJ Apa to get off the rugby field and join Red11’s books, but that didn’t sit right with me. Long story short, I walked away.

The fact is, all my experience and knowledge has culminated in the role I have today, and it’s awesome. I attend courtrooms rather than hold court in the fashion industry. I prepare teens for the glory of achievement in alternative education who haven’t attended school

since they were 12, in place of preparing models for the glory of Marc Jacobs at NYFW. Today, it’s not just the beautiful people I help, now, I give opportunities to all sorts of people. I take care of wildcats like me who didn’t get a leg up chucked to them in the form of a modelling course like I did (I wasn’t happy at the time, though).

The fashion industry was, and still is, amazing. Sure it’s changed with digital photography, technology, retouching being a few simple strokes for any mere mortal instead of going without so you didn’t have to be retouched. The phones are no longer dial up, but you do still sit by them waiting for that call.

I will always be grateful for the fashion industry. Because while so much has happened since I stumbled on to the scene as a stroppy teen in ’85, some things haven’t changed: how creative it is, the breadth of opportunities available, the risks people take to follow their hearts, to name a few.

And remember, when you’re complaining about how much it’s all changed or it’s no longer like it used to be, just be humble, drop to your knees and thank the Lord. Because no matter what, the fashion industry was, always has been, and remains, a privilege to be involved in.

behind the business

SUCCESS UNDER

30 LAUREN EARL

“When you’re busy you’re busy. You work when you have to no matter what the time.”

As a little girl, Lauren Earl used to bribe her friends into doing her maths while she used felt pens and drew up intricate title pages for their textbooks. Now working full time in graphic design for a leading New Zealand high street retailer, she considers herself fortunate for knowing what she wanted to do from the get-go, as it gave her a bit of a head start.

Originally from Wellington, she stayed in the Windy City to study at Massey College of Creative Arts. It wasn’t all work, though, with Earl spending every university break in Orange County, California with her friends.

Having always been a creative person, the 26-year-old said she definitely wouldn’t be where she is today without an education.

“Not only did I develop a key skill set but I was able to tap into an entirely new way of creative thinking. All of the late nights with minimal sleep definitely paid off. I feel fortunate to have landed my dream job, and I freelance as well, which is awesome.”

Her job encompasses a wide range of tasks, and no day is typically the same.

This can range from branding and designing packaging of all kinds, conceptualising ideas, styling and shooting looks in the studio, liaising with modelling agencies, planning and executing campaigns and designing the collateral for the stores.

Earl also gets to travel a lot with work and said she loves having a career which allows her to visit

different locations around the country and the world.

She’s jet-setted to LA, Sydney and New York this year alone. It can be mayhem and madness, with 5 am starts, lots of Snapchats and a whole lot of coffee.

“My day has to be totally organised so I can get through my workload but also really flexible so I can suddenly squeeze in a last-minute shoot or design meeting. To-do lists are essential. Being completely open minded and viewing every concept with fresh eyes is crucial. It’s important to constantly think of new ways of conveying our message and connecting with customers.” Her job has taught her to plan, but be open to change and organised but flexible at the same time, and that a nine til five job doesn’t exist in this industry.

“When you’re busy you’re busy. You work when you have to no matter what the time.” On top of full-time study, Earl wrote her book Flatter’s Survival Guide while at university. “Writing my book taught me a lot of valuable lessons. It was a pretty crazy thing to set out to do, but it taught me so much about business and how to manage myself and my career.”

Earl attributes success at such a young age to a positive attitude, being a hard worker and not taking herself too seriously. She said it is important to be surrounded by people who stimulate, support, inspire and encourage you, and that you have to work for it; whether it’s success in your career, at sport or in some other goal. “My parents always stressed the importance of working hard and leading by example to get what you want in life.” Currently, she’s focused on her short term goal of getting her second book published.

When she’s not getting through the madness of a typical day, Earl also makes time to fit in grit, yoga, tennis and catch ups with friends. She is starting a new job for Trelise Cooper shortly and her role will be Graphics and Creative Manager.

“I’m quite driven so I want to make sure that my career continues to grow and develop, and I will always continue to seek out new challenges.”

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I 27

Benjamin Alexander

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28 I June 2016

KINGKANG CHEN

After graduating from Whitecliffe College of Art & Design in 2015, Benjamin Alexander was selected to show his end of year collection at iD Fashion Week this year as part of their International Emerging Designer Show at which over 38 collections were competing across ten different countries.

A stand out garment from his end of year collection is a black satin wrap dress with antique beaded overlay. In this collection he focussed on exaggerated minimalism where all the silhouettes and cuts are clean contrasting experimental fabrics. Another highlight in this collection is the attention to detail with one of the garments delicately hand painted. Currently, his garments are available to buy via social media but he plans to open his own store soon.

Growing up in West Auckland, Alexander has ‘never not been in fashion’ and said it has always been a fundamental part of his life. The first designer that really opened his eyes to the world of fashion was Alexander McQueen and has been a contributing factor in his decision to become a designer. Alexander finds that he cannot pin point where he gets his inspiration from, but is heavily influenced

by Alexander McQueen. After doing a number of internships in New Zealand and Australia, he has gained invaluable skills within the industry that he believes people just can’t experience or learn from the outside.

“I think if you design something but don’t know how it’s made, you haven’t designed anything at all,” he said.

Alexander enjoys traveling and recently went to Vietnam for capsule collection collaboration. Shortly after he went to Copenhagen for the youth fashion summit and is now traveling through Europe.

The young designer believes that every designer should consider the chain effect of what they are creating and everything they make should be just as beautiful ethically as it is aesthetically. “Being a sustainable designer has become second nature to me,” explains Alexander. It is not only important for the future of the planet, he believes, but also for the future of design, especially with the shift into more sustainable practices throughout the industry.

Showcase NZ

REMBRANDT Apparel took a moment to chat with specialist menswear tailors Rembrandt to check in on how the company has celebrated their 70th year of sartorial excellence in the Australasian industry.

Our factory gives us the opportunity to offer a full tailoring solution including manufacturing, alterations and suit hire.

Established in 1946, Rembrandt Suits Ltd began as a bespoke tailor that evolved into a manufacturer, a wholesaler and over recent years, a retailer with stores in New Zealand and Australia. Rembrandt is celebrating their 70th year in business this year.

“We are very proud of this exciting milestone, marking our 70 years of sartorial excellence,” Suzanne Roff, marketing and E-commerce at Rembrandt said.

The company held the first of its celebrations in April at their new Auckland City flagship store on Shortland Street. Guests included suppliers and customers, many who have become good friends and have helped get Rembrandt where it is today.

In 1945, the business of Bert Churchill Tailors, located in Vivian Street, Wellington, was bought by Alex Harrison, a cutter, and registered as a company on 17 December 1945. This date is the start of the long journey taken by the company. Rembrandt has come a long way since those early years, now having Rembrandt stores in New Zealand and Australia with garments available in more than 100 of the top menswear stores on both sides of the Tasman.

“The biggest challenge has been transitioning from being a manufacturer to being a wholesaler and now being known as a modern and stylish retail brand,” David Lyford, managing director said.

The retail division has expanded in a considered fashion over the last five years, sometimes taking

over the reins from an existing customer, but more recently by opening new stores in key locations.

Since the beginning, the goal has always been to create men’s clothing that looks great, fits perfectly, is made from the world’s best fabric and represents excellent value. Proudly locally owned and operated, Rembrandt continues to make suits in their own factory in New Zealand while working alongside offshore manufacturers who share this commitment to quality.

Rembrandt is the only New Zealand retailer with a tailoring factory in New Zealand.

“Our factory gives us the opportunity to offer a full tailoring solution including manufacturing, alterations and suit hire,” Lyford said.

Rembrandt has built its reputation and success on understanding the principles of classic tailoring, combining them with modern designs and technology, and cloth from the world’s finest mills.

This reputation continues to grow as Rembrandt establishes itself as a retailer, opening stores in high profile locations, such as Shortland Street Auckland.

Their 14th store will open at St Lukes in July.

Now more than ever, Rembrandt knows that to succeed, their retail staff must offer exceptional customer service, be highly trained in men’s tailoring and focused on ensuring the customer finds what is right for them. If they can’t find it off the rack, the company will happily make it, in New Zealand, through its made to measure service.

“Our clients might be first introduced to Rembrandt for their first job interview or a wedding, with many loyal customers still with us many years later,” Lyford said.

Rembrandt’s online offering supports its bricks and mortar stores.

“It is not uncommon for customers to research on the site before coming in store,” Lyford said.

“But the online experience can never match the expert, personal service a customer receives in store.”

As well as retaining and catering to Rembrandt’s loyal long term clients, the collections also cater to the younger or more fashionable man with a contemporary focus.

Rembrandt’s Wayward Heir brand caters to those with a more youthful attitude.

apparelmagazine.co.nz

I 29

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8307 3821

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30 I June 2016

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START DATE: August 2010

CONTACT: Pieter Olivier, pieter@reviewmags.co.nz ​Contact Sally Koh: 09 570 2886​/029 333 1668 or sally.ablefashion@gmail.com

Office, Factory and Showroom: 6A Henderson Place, Onehunga, Auckland

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GARMENTpressing, RACKS , good repute. Generous commission rate Samples, production, and pleasant workseam environment.

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Show • New Zealand Pro DIVIDERS, BODY FORMS professionalism in work AND ethics, OTHER DISPLAY • Long standing re regular calling plan.

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CONTA Now To diSCu

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arnet Garment www.bma.co.nz

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afp

AUCKLAND FABRIC PRINTERS

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Co

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