A summer in provence 2014 by A Summer in Provence

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Alpilles

Maussane-les-Alpilles, A story of Provence

Luberon Rustrel,

The Legacy of the Ochre Miners

Pays d’Aix Eguilles,

A stroll through the heart of Provence

Pays Salonais

Salon de Provence,

For the transhumant shepherd, fulfillment is out there …

N° 3 - 2014 - Provence - 40

000 copies - Free

Provence | Traditional Fare |

Traditional Provençal markets If there is one thing that the Alpilles, the Aix region, the Luberon and the Salon region all have in common it’s the weekly market; virtually every town and village has a morning market. Local fruit and vegetables, traditional crafts, olive oil, honey … the fare on every stand more mouth-watering than the last. Make a point of visiting one! By Anne-Sophie Sourd

Where to find the main markets: Monday morning: Luberon: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris, Velleron Alpilles: Fontvieille, Saint-Etienne du Grès Aix region: Les Milles, Luynes Tuesday morning: Luberon: Cucuron, Gordes, Lacoste Alpilles: Cabannes, Rognonas, Tarascon Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Eguilles Salon region: Alleins, Eyguières Wednesday morning: Luberon: Le Thor, Gargas Alpilles: Mollégès, Mouriès, Orgon, Saint-Rémy de Provence Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Meyrargues Salon region: Mallemort, Salon de Provence Thursday morning: Luberon: L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Ménerbes, Robion, Roussillon Alpilles: Aureille, Maillane, Maussane les Alpilles, Noves Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, La Roque d’Anthéron Salon region: Sénas

Friday morning: Luberon: Bonnieux, Cavaillon, Lourmarin, Lagnes Alpilles: Barbentane, Eygalières, Eyragues, Fontvieille, Graveson, Saint-Andiol Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Eguilles, Lambesc Salon region: Eyguières, Mallemort, Salon de Provence Saturday morning: Luberon: Apt, Cheval Blanc, Le Thor, Ménerbes, Oppède, Petit Palais Alpilles: Cabannes, Saint-Rémy de Provence Aix region: Aix-en-Provence, Venelles Salon region: Salon de Provence, Charleval, Miramas Sunday morning: Luberon: L’Isle sur la Sorgue, Maubec, Coustellet Alpilles: Châteaurenard Aix region: Jouque, Aix-en-Provence, Vitrolles, Meyrargues Salon region: Pélissanne, Salon de Provence

SUMMER IN PROVENCE Directeur de la publication, gérant : Nicolas Coissard Rédacteurs : Anne-Sophie Sourd, Eric Morichaud, Rémi Lacassin Traduction : Irene Chalmers Preire Crédits photos : X Impression : Rotimpres Rédaction-Publicité : 06 09 98 67 49 - 06 63 75 06 96 Publicité et communication : Béatrice Bettinelli, Le Journal des Alpilles : www.journaldesalpilles.fr Nadine Lefebvre Marseille, Le Journal du Luberon : www.journalduluberon.fr Lionel Matteoda, Le journal du Pays Salonais : www.journaldupayssalonais.fr Lionel Matteoda, Le Journal des Aixois : www.journaldesaixois.fr 44, rue Lafayette - 13 300 Salon de Provence sont édités par la SARL de presse Aurélia Editions, au capital de 1500 euros. RCS B 419 512 918

Editorial

resh fruit and vegetables as far as the eye can see. Being dependent on the changing seasons and harvests, Producers on Provençal markets sell what they gathered that morning – produce that looks as good as it tastes … Melons, apricots, peaches, nectarines … lettuce, tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant, bell peppers, onions, garlic, shallots … all the basic elements for Provençal cooking. Visit the butcher’s stand where they sell chickens roasted to perfection. Stop at the fishmonger’s too and see vociferous salesmen of Mediterranean fish. Colors, aromas, the whole atmosphere is an experience … There is nothing quite like a market to awaken your senses because there is just so much to take in! Arts and crafts, fine fare - all of the Provençal customs and traditions congregate on town and village squares as with the market on Wednesday mornings in Salon de Provence or the one in Saint-Rémy, also on Wednesdays. There is a major market in Aix-en-Provence on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays on the Place Verdun and the Place Prêcheur and the lesser known, but nevertheless gourmet, market of the Petit Palais every Saturday morning.

By Rémi Lacassin

Be happy Since last fall, it’s been the sound of music everywhere … from Los Angeles to Brussels, via Berlin, Sydney and London. And we’ve all heard it - “Happy”, Pharell Williams’ worldwide hit. France, and in our case Provence, has also been stirred to sing and dance to this cheerful melody. It’s an exhilarating air that echoes like a song of praise to the sun, to the simple pleasures of daily life in our exceptional region: a stroll through a market, a visit to a monument, an outdoor concert, a meal with all the colors and flavors of the South … A way of life that can be observed from the Alpilles to Aix-en-Provence, from Salon to the Luberon, all authentic regions worth visiting. So, this summer, welcome to Provence and, more than ever, “Don’t worry, be happy!” RL 2

Provence in the movies The biggest stars in the world are not often wrong about these things and it isn’t for nothing that some, like Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, have decided to live here. We have some legendary places here that inspire creativeness. Some of the greatest painters have caught the image of Provence on canvas just as some of the greatest directors, fascinated by the scenery have captured Provence in pictures and used it as a setting. Movies crazy about Provence … By Anne-Sophie Sourd

MOVIES FILMED IN THE LUBERON The most symbolic film shot in the Luberon is, without contest, Ridley Scott’s “A Good Year”. For three months, he filmed in Oppède, Ménerbes, Lacoste, Bonnieux, and Avignon. Another somewhat curious movie made in the Luberon was Steve Bendelack’s “Mr Bean’s holiday”. The adventures of one of the more famous English characters were filmed in Cavaillon, Avignon, Oppède, Gordes, and Apt.

MOVIES FILMED IN THE ALPILLES John Frankenheimer’s “Ronin” (1988) was filmed partly in the Alpilles, in Les Baux de Provence to be precise. The leading actor, Robert De Niro, also had Arles and several towns in the Alpes Maritimes for his working environment. “The Lion in Winter” (1968) was partly filmed at the Abbaye de Montmajour near Tarascon. It was a British movie that received 7 Oscar nominations and won three awards: Best Actress for Katharine Hepburn, Best Adapted Screenplay for James Goldman and Best Music Score for John Barry.

MOVIES FILMED IN THE SALON REGION The best known movie to have been shot here is Dany Boon’s “Bienvenue chez les ch’tis”, remade in Italy as “Bienvenuti al sud”. Will Smith bought the film rights and intends to make an American version quite soon. It was partly shot in Salon de Provence, the starting point of the move before moving to the north of France.

MOVIES FILMED IN THE AIX REGION TThe famous opening scene in “The Transporter” was entirely set in the rue Pierre et Marie Curie in Aix-en-Provence. This Franco-American movie tells of the adventures of former special agent Franck Martin (Jason Statham), in some truly exceptional settings. “The Statement” (2004) was partially filmed in Aix-en-Provence. An adaptation of the novel by Brian Moore, it was inspired by the Paul Touvier affair and relates some remarkable historical facts.

Alpilles | Towns

and villages | [5]

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1 Les Baux de Provence

Due to the value and diversity of its heritage, the quality of its environment and urban planning, Les Baux de Provence is a member of a very elite club – “The Loveliest Villages in France”. Though Les Baux is already well known worldwide, promoting their heritage is still the town’s main objective.

[1] [4]

[2] [9]

2 Maussane-les-Alpilles

In the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional des Alpilles, the Vallée des Baux is home to Maussane-les-Alpilles, a village with around 2000 inhabitants. Within this extremely tourist-oriented region, Maussane-les-Alpilles has retained a certain authenticity with its olive groves, monuments and traditional festivities.

Saintes-Marie de-la-Mer

3 Saint-Rémy de Provence

Saint-Rémy is the epitome of the Provençal way of life: good food, local produce, olive oil, vineyards, arts and crafts, magnificent locations painted by Van Gogh, a Roman archeological site, traditions, festivals …

4 Fontvieille

The village of Fontvieille offers an exceptional quality of life combining modernity, authenticity, and tradition at the gates of the la Vallée-desBaux where part of the 30 000 hectares of Alpilles pineforest and brushland is situated. Given its ideal location, Fontvieille is the perfect starting point to visit the villages in this wonderful part of Provence, immortalized by Alphonse Daudet in “Letters from my Windmill”.

5 Barbentane

Hemmed in between two natural barriers, the commune is rich in ancient monuments and covers an area of 2713 hectares, 1200 hectares of which are Mediterranean forest.

6 Graveson

Welcome to a village of painters and pleasure … The location of the village, between Arles and Avignon, makes Graveson an unavoidable destination, a gateway between the Camargue and the Alpilles. Graveson is a holiday resort where the emphasis is more on quality than quantity; it is the crossroads where Provençal history and culture meet.

12 Maillane

10 Eyragues

Eyrargues is a typical peaceful Provençal village. You can’t miss the huge village square with its tall plane trees giving shadow in summer. This is where the heart of Eyrargues beats … This is where you do your shopping. This is where the market is held every Friday morning. On festive holidays, the square comes alive, the terraces become noisy, the atmosphere is friendly and there is good humor all round.

11 Mollégès

Mollégès is situated in the “golden triangle” between the Rhône, the Alpilles and the Durance. The village is a little out-of-the-way and offers a calm and pleasant rural setting. Why not take a few relaxing moments to visit the old town center, the remains of the 13th century abbey, the 11th century chapel in the cemetery, the monument raised in 1989 in honor of a draft horse … and perhaps stroll or cycle through the country pathways.

It’s impossible to talk about Maillane, the soul of Provence, without mentioning its most important feature – it was birthplace to the poet Fédéric Mistral. By choosing to spend his entire life there the winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1904 made Maillane the cultural capital of Provence and started the revival of the Provencal language and culture. With an agricultural past in common with the nearby villages, Maillane aims to remain true to its image which has always been its strength. Life there is punctuated with traditional festivities.

13 Tarascon Whether in the town or out and about, let yourself be tempted by the charms of short historic tours and discover the local heritage and traditions a little differently. This is a great way to see the sights of Tarascon, a town that has considerable evidence of all the main architectural periods, from the Middle Ages to the 20th century, and to enjoy the natural environment of the surrounding area around La Montagnette, at the end of the Alpilles. This list is not exhaustive. Do not hesitate to consult our website, www.journaldesalpilles.fr, to discover all the wealth of our heritage.

7 Eygalières

Looking down from the top of a rock over charming countryside that stretches to the horizon, where olive groves cover the plain and with the Alpilles as a backdrop, every path and every road opens up onto a new view. A few minutes from the village, the Chapelle Saint-Sixte is the proudly maintained symbol of the spiritual past of rural Provence.

8 Saint-Andiol

Saint-Andiol has a privileged location in the heart of Provence, in the Durance plain, only a stone’s throw from the Alpilles… The region is rural and agricultural (fertile land, irrigation, trees). It is a place of natural beauty - a natural environment, outstanding sites (the castle park, countryside, prairies, irrigation, cypress hedges, the Durance River flood plain, furrows of pebbles …).

9 Aureille

In the heart of the Alpilles beneath the highest point, the Signal des Opiès, the village of Aureille (population 1500) is situated on the southern side of the Alpilles facing the Plaine de la Crau. The village is a little off the beaten tourist tracks and has preserved the character of a Provençal village. The slow but controlled evolution of its population has strongly affected the preservation of its identity generating a feeling of hospitality and a strong sense of solidarity. 4

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Saint-Rémy | Hotel Restaurant |

Maussane-les-Alpilles | Provençal cuisine |

At the Château des Alpilles, the chef Mathias Jean Martin blends savory delights Bettinger celebrates his 20th anniversary with hints of sweetness

n a wonderful environment, surrounded by a luxurious garden lies a bourgeois 19th century home. “Welcome to the Château des Alpilles”, Françoise Bon and Catherine Rollin wish you a memorable holiday in their beautiful house. Whether you stay in the “Maison de Maître”, where the contemporary furnishing blends wonderfully with the restored decor,

he lentil and vegetable soups have just been put away and Jean Martin is now ready with new summer recipes that can only be found in his boutique in Maussane-les-Alpilles. Eggplant gratin with béchamel sauce and cream of eggplant spread are the latest savory newcomers. These recipes are of Provençal inspiration and now join the ranks alongside honeyed ratatouille and Gran’Draille (puréed grossane olives), ideal for adding to omelets and puréed vegetables. There are many products here in this Alpilles village and none can be found anywhere else! In full barbecue season, Jean Martin’s spreads are an asset on your table or in your picnic basket for all to enjoy. The company dates from 1920 and has something for all tastes: cream of dried tomatoes, mild anchoïade, red or green pesto, artichoke cream, tapenades, bell pepper cream … for an appetizing stroll through the land of sunshine with products made from simple, fresh produce. Whether for drinks with friends, a family meal, or a professional seminar, the occasions are numerous for you to enjoy these entirely artisanal preparations that can be found in the boutique. And sampling them is the best way to devise something tasty to go with drinks. Besides his Provençal delicatessen items (honey, flavored vinegars, cordials, preserves, THE

or you wish to reside in the “Mas de Cyprés” with its suites and family rooms, this 5-star hotel spoils you with a remarkably attentive service. In the middle of the verdant park with a special atmosphere created by centennial trees and rare scents, it feels natural to extend the visit with an exquisite lunch or dinner. In the kitchen, the chef Mathias Bettinger, who has been loyal to the hotel for 20 years, and the sous chef Xavier Pommer enjoy preparing colorful and delicious dishes to excite your taste buds. From June 15th to September 15th the lunch will be served on the beautiful terrace next to the pool for insiders and with reservation only. Definitely, the Château des Alpilles is a chic and elegant address that should not be missed.

LE CHÂTEAU DES ALPILLES

★★★★★

Hotel - Restaurant Route du Rougadou 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence Tel : 04 90 92 03 33 www.chateaudesalpilles.com

Restaurant open for lunch and dinner upon reservation only, closed on Wednesdays. In July and August open for lunch every day. Lunch à la carte, dinner à la carte or menu at 48 €.

etc.) you can now fill your basket with fruit gratins: apple-peach-candied fruit, and apple and fig. These original preparations (just perfect for crumbles and tarts) can only be found here in the boutique. Sweet notes to meet the desires of a faithful clientele that is already hooked. And what better way to serve these gourmet treasures than in the “Laurent Barbier” range of utensils and bowls in warm-colored olive wood. The range is a veritable rainbow that will brighten your table and blend marvelously with delicacies by Jean Martin.

JEAN MARTIN

9, rue C. Rieu - 13520 Maussane-les-Alpilles Tel.: 04 90 54 34 63 - boutique@jeanmartin.fr www.jeanmartin.fr - facebook.com/jeanmartin.fr Open from Monday to Saturday from 9.30 am to 12.30 pm and from 2.30 pm to 7 pm.

offers all year round both in the boutique + Special and the e-boutique if you sign up for the newsletter

Maussane-les-Alpilles | Discovery |

A story of Provence Situated between the Alpilles and the Crau plain, Maussane-les-Alpilles welcomes you to another, gentler, way of life. The site was hewn by time and shaped by both passing populations and a local economy that is tightly bound to Mother Nature. Let’s take a closer look … By Eric Morichaud

n the beginning was Thetis, also known as the primordial sea, mother of all the oceans who left behind white limestone that would be the very foundation of Provence, from the Alpilles to the Crau plain. Through the ages, a water-logged land that was nourished by sediment and where life could develop slowly emerged … and much, much later, the first people settled there. So Maussane was in fishing country? That’s a thought that would certainly surprise the casual visitor but not those who had heard about the richness of the “Marais des Baux” from their forefathers. It was a stretch of wetlands that disappeared in the last third of the 19th century (drained for agricultural and pasturung purposes) although it remains present in the subsoil. The water supply has been ensured since 1914 by an irrigation canal (dug on the orders of the French ambassador Paul Revoil) and by numerous little streams that flow down from the Alpilles all year round. Nowadays, Maussane-les-Alpilles is more of a popular vacation place, a place where you pass through, a place that has maintained its rural vocation. Basically, this boils down to PDO Vallée des Baux olive oil derived from salonenque, béruguette, grossane and verdale varieties. Of the many mills that were in service at the end of the 19th century only two remain and are proud of their expertise dating back to the days of the Pax Romana. In addition, the region grows grapes, notably for the vin de pays des Alpilles and counts many orchards. Finally, there is also grain production; the days of past glory are still celebrated by the revival of Saint Eloi’s Day (patron saint of farmers) and his Carreto Ramado (a cart strewn with leaves), a procession that is as impressive as it is high in color going through the village streets to the sound of tambourines. Maussane is a tranquil, serene place too, especially when the wind dies down. This you will discover if you leave your car near the lush green Espace Agora Alpilles park that is home to a remarkable map of France in dressed stone. The map is as much a stone tribute to the diversity of our land as to the skills of the generations of craftsmen and sculptors who responsible for our national legacy. Then head for Vieux Maussane, the historical center of the village until 1754 when the Eglise Sainte-Croix was consecrated; the church was financed by donations from Joseph de Laugier de Monblan. As you cross the older part of the town, the wash house, the Fontaine du Planet, and a number of well-preserved historic houses and the Notre Dame de Piété walls, give an impression of life in bygone days and village history. Return via the back streets and passageways that pass by the wash house inaugurated in the time of Napoléon III and designed by the architect Louis Astruc, till you come to the main village square. Here, in front of the Eglise Sainte-Croix, the sculptures of the Fontaine des Quatre Saisons rise in tribute to water, the source of life. The architectural heritage is both opulent and discreet and should be savored slowly, so take your time. Continue your walk around the village, perhaps taking a path heading up into the hills or another along the Via Aurelia and see the milestones that show the importance of this road between Latium, Gaul and Hispania for the Roman world. History and archeology lovers will no doubt explore the Castellas hill, a onetime oppidum and place of worship. Ancient times and the accompanying remains and relics were succeeded by the Middle Ages which, for some authors, implies that there was a stronghold in Maussane. This is a concept to handle with care because no remains have ever been of such a place. The period was, however, strongly influenced by the lords of Les Baux and their castle, particularly during power struggles, successions, disputes, and wars. Religious unrest under the Ancien Régime, the arrival of the black death, and then the troubles that came with the revolution and the Reign of Terror, formed a bleak period for Maussane as for the whole Baux valley. Much later, when the railroad arrived, Maussane developed a lease of industrial life on a human scale while keeping its initial agricultural purpose.

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION, CONTACT: Maussane-les-Alpilles Maison du Tourisme Av. des Alpilles Tel.: 04 90 54 33 60 tourisme@maussane.com Open every day from 9.30 am to 2.30 pm.

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Maussane | Olive oil mill |

Saint-Rémy de Provence | Security |

1924 - 2014: 90th anniversary at Moulin Cornille

PMS Provence, video surveillance you can count on

ummer is just around the corner and the arrival of the “Fruité noir Cornille” (a protected brand name) in a collector bottle is a big event in Maussane-les-Alpilles. So as to fittingly celebrate the 90th anniversary of the “Coopérative Oléi-

Events this summer June, Saturday 28th, 9.45 am - noon: culinary discovery + lunch + visit of the mill. Contact d’Hélène Riberpray (nutritionist) at 0666227025 to register (15€ per person); 11.30 am: conference on the benefits of olive oil by Elsa Jomain (beauty therapist); 1.30 pm-3.30 pm: olive-oil based relaxing beauty treatment (reservation at the mill); 2 pm-5 pm: recreation of a Roman herbalist's shop and of a thermopolium (Roman shop) by Véronique Autheman. July, Wednesday 9th (10 am-noon): an authentic aïoli by Jack Sautel, mayor of Maussane; Wednesday 16th (10 am-noon): tasting of preserves with Mr Camous; Wednesday 23th (10 am-noon): melon from the valley of Les Baux with Mrs Favier; Wednesday 30th (10 am-noon): skin care with olive oil (reservation only). August, Wednesday 6th (10 am-noon, open house): demonstration of articles made of olive wood with “Grain d’Olive” and a visit of the olive groves; Wednesday 20 th(10 am-noon): culinary discovery with Mr Valadier (chef).

MS Provence is a family business that specializes in the protection of people and property; repairing and maintaining alarm systems, fire alarms, access control, computer networks and video surveillance. Their technicians can connect your computer or your smart phone to a camera installed in your home so you can keep an eye on it at all times. All you have to do is connect the alarm when you leave and everything else is automatic. This is an ideal solution if you have a second residence, if you are often on the road, or if the connection would reassure an older or disabled person. It provides a comforting presence even when you are far away. Given their expertise, availability (the agents give the client their cell phone number after completing installation), their affordable rates, PMS Provence seems an obvious choice. The company is on the cutting edge of security engineering and can provide you with a system that fits your needs with several display modes, night viewing, etc.

cole de la Vallée des Baux”, the mill (150 000 liters of olive oil every year) continues the fine tradition of its “fruité noir” with its notes of cooked, slightly peppery artichoke, sourdough bread, black olives (or cocoa), fresh mushrooms, truffles… Subtle aromas that Moulin Cornille is renowned for and that are brought out by fermenting the olives for 3 or 4 days.

MOULIN CORNILLE

Rue Charloun Rieu - 13520 Maussane les Alpilles Tel.: 04 90 54 32 37 - www.moulin-cornille.com Facebook.com/moulin.jeanmariecornille Open from Monday to Saturday from 9.30 am to 7 pm and on Sundays from 2.30 pm to 7 pm. Free guided tours on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 11 am including tasting and a film on the harvest.

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5 oils produced by the mill are available + Allin 25cl (and larger) canisters

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With secure data transmission and recording, watching over your home from afar has never been so easy. As PMS’ slogan says, “our proximity is your security”.

Avenue du 19 mars 1962 (at the corner of bd Albert Schweitzer) 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence Tel.: 04 90 92 20 90 Email: contact@pmsprovence.fr Web site: www.pmsprovence.fr Open from Monday to Friday from 9 am to noon and from 2pm to 6 pm. Open on Saturdays from 9 am to noon.

Present in the Alpilles, the Luberon and beyond for family homes, businesses, institutions and associations

The top | clichés | about Provence Life being easy-going in Provence, there are a number of clichés on the subject. All of them have an origin, some are based on truth, and others are closer to stereotypes than to reality. Here is a glimpse of some of the idiosyncrasies that go to make up the charm of Provence. By Anne-Sophie Sourd

Siesta “My favorite sport is siesta” - Yves Mirande This is one of the most common sayings you hear in Provence. So after hearing it how can you say that the locals don’t nap every day? The term “siesta” comes down to us from the Romans and was the word they used for the rest they took after lunch. Fairly common in our region, it was intended for workers who got up early and who, in the heat of the day, took advantage of the lunchtime pause to recharge their batteries. It’s becoming less and less common through lack of time even though certain scientists vaunt the advantages of a siesta during the day because, apparently, it can increase your productivity by 20%.

Speaking with your hands "Man is the wisest of animals because he has hands” - Anaxagoras This is particularly true of our Italian neighbors but it’s also true that, here in the South, words are often accompanied by hand movements. It’s a fact that, to emphasize what they’re saying (or what they’ve done), manual punctuation comes naturally to the locals.

Accent

Apéritif “I never go to mass because it’s at aperitif time” - Georges Courteline The aperitif is, first and foremost, a moment of conviviality before mealtimes. In Provence, it is often accompanied by an anisette. The origins go back to ancient times when the Romans took drinks (with or without alcohol) before their meals. In Provence, it is generally drunk in cafés or bars accompanied by peanuts or olives. An aperitif is intended to whet your appetite and is a moment of pleasure.

Exaggeration

“Your accent isn’t in your mouth it’s in your listeners’ ears!” Plume Latraverse The Marseille accent is melodious, a true extension of the countryside and inhabitants. The words may get carried away and the French language a little mistreated but the accent warms discussions and animates conversations. The accent is exaggerated, forces on certain syllables, adds a few vowels here and there and accentuates the silent “e”. It is distinctive enough to be inimitable.

Local expressions

“If God exists then he exaggerates” - George Brassens You often hear people say “he’s a real Marseillais, he’s exaggerating” or “you’ve been to Marseille, haven’t you?” This is another cliché that is more or less comprehensible. It’s a common belief that people from Marseille (and by extension, people from Provence) tend to stretch the truth of their statements when telling a story. For instance, if a Marseillais tells you that he caught a fish that was 1 meter in length it is often likely that the fish only measured 20 cm in reality.

“Vocabulary is a rich pasture of words” Homer

The vocabulary used in our region is quite distinct; in addition to the commonly-used words that come from the Provençal language, some expressions can only be understood by the Provençal people themselves. For example, “avoir l’oeuf” is used for someone who has permanent aches and pains.

Pétanque “From world soccer champions to the local pétanque champion, every great sportsman will tell you what counts is taking part!” Pétanque, also known as “boules” in Provence, originated here over 100 years ago. The continual success of this game is no doubt due to the simplicity of the rules and the conviviality of the game that brings together players of all ages and all levels. It can be played as singles or in teams of two or three. The goal is to throw the boule as close as possible to the small wooden ball. In Provence, virtually all villages and towns have their boules area and it is not uncommon to see tense games being played on summer afternoons. And if soccer is the sport that the south is fervent about, a game of pétanque traditionally remains a moment of sociability with your family or friends. 8

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Arles | Farm machinery and parts - Repairs - Maintenance |

A.S.S.E, a partner for agriculture and a specialist in organic agricultural equipment

.S.S.E stands for Agri Service Sud-Est. Serge Berthomieu is the grandson of a farmer and the son of a leveling contractor and is now following in the family tradition of working in the business of land and agriculture. A.S.S.E. sells farm machinery, equipment, accessories, implements, spare parts and consumables from numerous wellknown brands, supplies after sales service, and carries out repairs. A workshop for mechanics, electricity, hydraulics plus a large stock of parts in the self-service shop allow the team of professionals to intervene rapidly and efficiently, and to advise their customers. “We have always been there for professionals in the agricultural world but we can also meet the needs for many non-professionals because agriculture is a very popular leisure activity particularly in the Alpilles, the Crau plain, and the Luberon, and you really need to work with the right equipment,” explains Serge Berthomieu. A.S.S.E. can offer private customers,

landscapers, and local authorities solutions with, for instance, their range of Antonio Carraro tractors, a reference in equipment for large green spaces and average culture areas. “Whether for mowing parks, viticulture, arboriculture, olive trees, brush clearance, etc. our range can meet all possible needs. We have twenty models from 23 to 100 hp with automatic hydrostatic gears,

lated chassis option to optimize the turning radius. Antonio Carraro, by A.S.S.E., provides functional reliability and ease of use at the service of your land.

on wheels or tracks, that can be equipped with all the necessary implements.” And there are tractors mounted with a reversible driving position, a real boon for working safely in the best possible conditions even in difficult terrain. Just the thing to seamlessly go from towing an implement to driving it! There is also an articu-

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Saint-Rémy | Beds and Bed linen |

Sweet dreams with Saint-Rémy Literie

aking over from M. Giovannetti (La Loubo), a beds and bedding expert, Jean-Yves Guillon is maintaining the tradition of local specialist services so that choosing your next bed is a pleasant experience. By developing their line of accessories, Saint-Rémy Literie has expanded their high quality offer of classic styles and contemporary printed fabrics. Equipped with their professional advice you can start looking for what suits you best whether springs, foam or latex … Because the choice of a mattress (up to 200 cm x 200 cm!) is crucial for resting both mind and body. Ventilation, comfort and support – the rule is simple but needs to be respected for peaceful, rested mornings. “The air-tightness of the room and how much the person sweats will determine the type of mate-

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rials to choose – knowing the ventilation conditions of the house is also important,” points out JeanYves who has a great variety of models to offer. With a custom service for bedding, a selection of wellknown brands (Swissflex, Epeda, Bultex…) and a broad range of bed linen (pillows, comforters, blankets, etc.), Saint-Rémy Literie may be only a small family business but they are outstanding!

SAINT-RÉMY LITERIE

1, rue Albin Gilles – ZAC de la Gare 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence Tel.: 04 90 92 13 85 www.aubonheurdudormeur-literie.com Open from Tuesday to Friday from 9 am to noon and from 2 pm to 6.30 pm. Open on Saturdays from 9 am to 4 pm.

+ The range of articulated beds by Swissflex, the last word in mechanical and manual control 9

26, avenue de la Libération - 13646 Arles Tel.: 04 90 93 49 84 - Port. 06 12 47 06 29 contact@agriservice.fr - www.agriservice.fr Open from Monday to Friday from 8 am to noon and from 2 pm to 6 pm. Saturdays by appointment.

A real specialist in your neighborhood. Repairs can be carried out at your home

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Eygalières | Restaurant - Pizzeria – Swimming pool |

La Jasse: your feet in the water and your mind in the stars

o you ever dream of a nice cool spot at the foot of the Alpilles? You can now take that relaxing break beside a magnificent (entirely renovated) swimming pool at La Jasse, a stone's throw from the village of Eygalières. Why not have lunch, dinner or just spend a lazy day in this exceptional setting? Dolores will take care of you whether you prefer to lie comfortably in a recliner at the water's edge or seated on the terrace for a simple meal, bursting with flavor. With a varied menu (salad platters, grilled meats, pizzas, slow-cooked dishes, pasta, etc.) and a dish of the day, Chef Shannon will tickle the taste buds of the whole family. This is particularly true for children who have their own special menu: cordial, burger and fries or nuggets or pizza and two scoops of ice-cream. By opting for conviviality and quality (the terrace and the deck are made of teak), the new owners have created an outdoor place of well-being

to share with friends. The establishment is also ideal for weddings, christenings, seminars, work committees,

etc. In other words, every excuse is a good one to go to La Jasse!

LA JASSE

Restaurant - Pizzeria - Swimming pool Route d’Orgon - 13810 Eygalières Tel.: 0432600416 - Mob : 0611355305 facebook.com/pages/Restaurant-Piscine-La-Jasse Fixed price & à la carte menus Swimming pool access is free with lunch or dinner otherwise 10€ (including recliner and soft drink) - private car park - open all year round from 10 am to 8 pm. THE

Pool parties and theme evenings (see the Facebook page for the program)

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Provence | Mets et Saveurs |

Marie Lousada, an outstanding personal chef

cocktail buffet for 250 guests? An event for 80 friends and family members? A business lunch for 6? Marie Lousada, a personal chef, has the experience and expertise for inventive recipes and pleasant occasions. “I do the shopping, I prepare some of the things at home and then I go to my client’s place,” explains this chef who will travel from Montpellier to Marseille for her clients. “Once there, begins a relationship of trust– I enter their

home and their kitchen.” “And their meal,” you might be tempted to add, given that they only have to sit down and enjoy. Marie encourages her clients to discuss the composition of the menus with her and enjoys imparting her passion by getting them to taste seasonal produce. “Sometimes a dish is more suited to one client than to another. I take account of their personality, their tastes, and their origins too …” continues our sweet-and-savory brunch specialist. Marie Lousada starts the culinary advanture that is “Mets et Saveurs” several days before the event with local suppliers and notably at the farmers’ market in Coustellet. Her organization of the shopping is quite simple: for up to 8 guests, the client pays for the shopping plus the service cost. Beyond that, it is all included in the cost of the menu (35 €, 45 €, 65 €). The personal chef can also supply one or more servers for 20 guests or more… Bon appétit !

METS ET SAVEURS,

Marie Lousada, personal chef Tel.: 06 16 45 45 49 mets.et.saveurs@gmail.com and marie-lousada@live.fr Facebook.com/mets.saveurs http://mets-et-saveurs.overblog.com/

THE 10

works for both private + Marie and corporate clients

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Mouriès | Sale – Tasting – Visit |

Le Moulin Saint-Michel, a passion for olive oil

estled in the heart of the village, Moulin Saint-Michel is a veritable institution in Mouriès. It was set up in 1744 and has belonged to the Rossi family for three generations. Today, Laurent is the worthy successor to this line of millers. He and his sister, Stéphanie, recently won a gold medal in the Concours Général Agricole in Paris for their AOC Provence oil. This is the 60th medal won by the mill that also offers a PDO Vallée des Baux, “la Fruité”, resulting from a blend of olives traditionally found around Mouriès, as well as a single variety oil,

also carries items to brighten your home and your summer table with imaginative dinnerware and ornaments with a Provençal flavor. “la Picho”. You can really sense that traditions are alive and kicking when you visit the mill, by yourself or with a guide. And the tastefully decorated boutique has a horde of 100% local treasures. Besides their palette of four different olive oils (the PDO Vallée des Baux is available in an opaque golden 50 cl bottle, ideal for travelling, and “la Fruité” comes in 3- and 5-liter bag-in-box formats), Moulin Saint-Michel also sells savory delights and sweet treats. The latest products are wines from Camargue, “Bière des Gardians” beers (made from black rice, white rice and red rice), and chocolate by Le Comptoir de Mathilde, joining up with local products: broken olives, picholine green olives, grossane black olives, genuine Marseille soap, etc. Moulin Saint-Michel

MOULIN SAINT-MICHEL

30, Cours Paul Revoil - 13890 Mouriès GPS: 43° 69.0151’ - 4° 87.0913’ Tel.: 04 90 47 50 40 - www.moulinsaintmichel.com Open from Monday to Saturday from 9 am to noon and from 2 pm to 6 pm. Open on Sundays from 10 am to 4 pm. Guided tours (1 hour) on the mill history and with olive oil tasting are on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 10.30 am. Cost: 3 € - no charge for children. Advance booking is recommended. THE

Gift boxes that you can either buy ready-filled or fill with the articles of your choice

Perched Villages in the | Luberon |

[11]

[5]

Roussillon

[2]

[3]

Cargas

[10]

[8]

[4] [7]

1 Ansouis

[6]

In the heart of the Pays d'Aigues, with both the Grand Luberon and the Durance River on the horizon, this perched village is crowned by a thousand-yearold castle. In the Middle Ages, Ansouis was in the perfect place to control the road between Aix-en-Provence and Apt. Today, this well-preserved village still has the magnificent castle (former property of the Sabran family). To reach the castle, cross the square and follow the small streets of beautifully restored houses; some of these date as far back as the 15th and 17th centuries.

[9] [1]

2 Gordes

Gordes is proud to be one of the most beautiful villages in France, with paved streets winding between tall houses built on the very rock and clinging to the hillside in an atmosphere of history and legend. In the surrounding countryside, Gordes also has a view over the Village des Bories (curious round dry-stone buildings), the abbaye de Sénanque in its lush green valley, the Moulin des Bouillons, and the Palais Saint Firmin cellars.

9 Lauris

Lauris is a little known treasure in the Luberon and is well worth a visit. It sits on a rocky hilltop overlooking the Durance valley and combines the charm of a typical Provençal village with the energy of a young community that has all mod cons. Lauris is proud of its history and heritage and is the very image of what you’d expect from a Provençal village – fountains, shaded lanes, traditions.

3 Roussillon

Here in Provence, between the Luberon and the Monts de Vaucluse, glows Roussillon in an ochre-colored light. It is classed as one of the most beautiful villages in France and is quite unique. It lies on the biggest deposit of ochre in the world and displays this in an extraordinary range of flamboyant colors. Strolling through the lanes and up and down steps, contemplating the often simple and naturally beautiful houses, you cannot help but admire the results of ancient art work. This is a place where man has merged naturally into the magnificence of his surroundings.

10 Oppède le Vieux

Greatly marked by History with a capital H, Oppède-le-Vieux has weathered the centuries and bears the traces of their passing. High on a crag, the remains of a Medaieval castle (“like a grenade that has exploded”) looks into the abyss from the top of sheer cliffs that plunge into a breathtaking canyon. At the foot of the castle, a 360° panorama views the terraces of Ste-Cécile, landscaped gardens and in the distance Mont-Ventoux, the monts de Vaucluse and, on the cliff side, the Luberon.

4 Ménerbes

High on a rocky peak overlooking Luberon vines and garrigues, the citadel and castle of Ménerbes watch over their neighbors. Within the village itself, the streets reveal a rich heritage - residences from the past, the town hall square with its 17th century belltower and belfry … As with many villages in the Luberon, Ménerbes attracted a number of famous artists such as Picasso who had a house here.

5 Venasque

The story of Venasque can be told via the three main monuments, the ramparts, the church and the baptistry. At the foot of Mont Ventoux, hanging on to a crag that overlooks vines, garrigues and cherry trees, are the remains of the former mediaeval village, the ramparts and three Saracen towers. In the heart of the Provençal village are steep streets, houses of honey-colored stone, the Cathedral Church of Notre-Dame and a magnificent baptistery dating from the 11th century.

6 Lourmarin

Lourmarin is situated at the lower end of the channel carved into the Luberon by the Aiquebrun, in a setting of vineyards and olive groves. Streets bordered by fountains wind their way around the Castellas and a charming Romanesque church to lead you to the magnificent castle. The castle was built in the 15th century by the d’Agoult family and houses a rich collection of furniture and works of art. The village attracted many artists including Henri Bosco and Albert Camus, both buried in the small cemetery. For further information contact the tourist information bureau - Tel: 04 90 68 10 77

11 Murs

7 Lacoste

Take a walk through the narrow streets steeped in history and admire the remains of the Marquis de Sade’s castle (restored by designer Pierre Cardin), the mediaeval remains and the stone houses. Right in the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon, Lacoste has a lot to offer – hiking in the Forêt des Cèdres, cycling routes, events, art galleries, wine tasting … Despite being quite cosmopolitan the village maintains local traditions and the locals have welcomed and integrated numerous artists and sculptors.

8 Bonnieux

This village is known for its two churches, its ramparts, its former town hall (the Hôtel de Rouvil), its charming streets and numerous old buildings, all of which give Bonnieux quite a unique cachet. Besides this, in the plain is the Pont Julien, built in the Augustan era (27 BC – 14 AD) on the Domitian Way (known as "camin roumieù" in Provençal) – and on the hilltop, the Forêt des Cèdres, a cool spot in summer. In short, it is a very varied location from both a natural and a historical point of view.

The first thing you notice when you arrive in the village is the restored castle, dating from the 15th century, which overlooks Murs. Then, as you walk through the streets, beside the church is the birthplace of Henry 4th’s famous brother-in-arms, Crillon. The house goes back to the 13th century and has been converted into a small prehistory museum. You could also take a stroll along the "Mur de la Peste" (the plague wall), an astonishing 25 km long dry stone wall that was built in 1721 to protect the Comtat Venaissin from the outbreak of the plague that arrived in Marseille by boat.

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Gargas | Hotel ***** Restaurants |

Tempting times at La Coquillade

s the summer season approaches, La Coquillade reveals their delightful new menu, full of festive delights and subtle aromas. In an authentic Provençal village, this superlative wine tourism hotel***** complex extends a cordial epicurean invitation to their three restaurants. Le Gourmet for creations by Michelin-starred chef Christophe Renaud and pasty chef René Solnon (a gastronomical restaurant open only in the evening from Tuesday to Sunday), Le Bistrot and its Jardin dans les Vignes, and Il Ristorante with its new woodsmoke oven, for the sun-drenched flavors of Italy with pizza, pasta and other specialties (from 28th May to 28th September, open at lunchtime and in the evenings in July and August though closed on Tuesdays). La Coquillade has rooms, suites, and restaurants, the comfort and reception of a prestigious environment, the

flavors and freshness of the passing seasons expressed in exceptional but different culinary atmospheres. It is a haven of peace in the Luberon; a starting point for exploring the countryside, walks in the vines, cycling on or off roads with top-end cycles from their partner BMC cycles (BMC have

their own area at La Coquillade). Also available is a relaxation area and two swimming pools. There are many ways of enjoying your time here and they are all stylish. Whether you are visiting for a meal or a stay, whatever the season, time at La Coquillade will always be gourmet time for you.

LA COQUILLADE HOTEL ***** RESTAURANTS

Relais & Châteaux. Michelin-starred restaurant, bistrot Access for persons of reduced mobility - Visitors car park La Coquillade – 84400 Gargas - Tel.: +33(0)490 74 71 71 E-mail: info@coquillade.fr - Website: www.coquillade.fr GPS: 043° 52.81' N, 005° 19.02' E THE

Aureto winery, wine tasting

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Ménerbes | La Vie est Belle Rue de la Fontaine |

Antiques, Modern articles and Bazaar chic

t seems incredibly obvious to the casual visitor who crosses the threshold. Here, in the heart of Menerbes, life is decidedly good in Rue de la Fontaine. For, as the connoisseur that he is, the showman of countless lives, Bernard Guillon shares the many eccentric worlds that he so loves with us. It is a finely balanced and joyous bazaar chic blend of antiques, modern articles, unbridled contemporary creations, baroque, rustic, and resolutely futuristic elements that we find. Workshop furniture, industrial or Scandinavian vintage, lights, paintings, sculptures, sofas, reading lamps, coffee tables, bureau, chairs, armchairs upholstered by Grace Rondier… Here, the genuine article turns out to be of great quality, carefully cared for as it needs, unearthed here and there in the course of encounters, of journeys. Here, in La Vie est aussi Belle rue de la Fontaine, can also be found works by some of the most unusual talents in contemporary design. A presentation in honor of talent from the south of France, Catherine Gontier for instance, gives rise to some quite unexpected results with wire modeling. Emm La Boheme, a specialist in lampshades, works with old sheet music for origami creations. Philippe Defferre and his Log Pods; log carriers transformed into works of art by associating reinforcing steel and cement. Browsing from object to object, from line to texture, from color to material, from discovery to astonishment, it is quite certain that we will all be surprised by the wind-swept hare or the crowned lamb, both born of paper and resin in artist Lieve’s deft fingers … and not forgetting Bernard Serra’s textile creations and the original fragrances by La Manufacture des Châteaux. Finally, life is good in Rue de la Fontaine, because of chance meetings with a diversity of emotions causing you to be instantly smitten with an item, whether a contemporary creation, an original piece of furniture or a tasteful ornament. 13

LA VIE EST BELLE RUE DE LA FONTAINE 84560 Ménerbes - Cell: 06 19 91 37 91 Email: lavieestbelle@ruedelafontaine.fr Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10.30 am to 7 pm.

From yesteryear to today, an island in the Sorgue

'Illa de Sorga, l'Illo de Sorgo...The casual traveller is unlikely to be concerned by the debate of whether the classic Provençal or Mistral’s Provençal naming of one of the loveliest sites in Provence is right. Whether you’re coming from Cavaillon, Avignon, or Mont Ventoux through the Vallee du Cavalon, the view is just as breath-taking. You can’t miss the many branches of the Sorgue, the gardens, the embankment that surrounds the old town, the fourteen mill wheels still standing, the signs of trades from another era - these are all symbols that are now carefully preserved. Here a walkway, there a narrow bridge, a surprising though pleasant game of leap-frog leads you over the river to the heart of L’Isle sur la Sorgue. Alleys, small squares, passageways, draw you in to explore a busy and animated maze. From shaded terraces to fragrant, brightly colored shops, antique signs of bygone trades stand out on gables and facades, stones and plasterwork. Little by little, and before you know it, it’s time to go back up the Sorgue and step back in time … Though the remains of the nearby castrum at Velorgues indicates habitation in Gallo-Roman times, L’Isle sur la Sorgue took on its full importance first under the Counts of Provence and then later under the Counts of Toulouse and the Avignon Popes who fortified the place, offering asylum to the inhabitants of nearby village in the darkest hours of religious unrest. Nowadays, among the vestiges of the Middle Ages, stands the sole relic of the fortifications, the Tour Boutin (a square tower), located in the Place de la Liberté. Other monuments evoke life in the town down through the ages. A Cardinal’s house, town residences, the Tour d’Argent island, the Collégiale Notre-Dame des Anges, the Couvent des Cordeliers, the Couvent des Minimes, the Couvent des Capucins, the Couvent des Ursulines and numerous small chapels in various stages of preservation are evidence of the weight of religious influence in former times. There are also a certain number of references to Judaism, reminders of the place held in certain times by a Jewish community that was very active in the life and development of the town.

L'Isle sur la Sorgue is an island, or rather several islands, in the Sorgue, embraced by clear water emerging from the depths of the rock. It is a symbolic place in the Luberon joined by another waterway, merry and bright, in summer time. Let’s drift towards the local “Venice” and explore …

The population of the Isle sur la Sorgue (definitive name as from 18th August 1890) was an active community, making good use of the potential of the Sorgue River primarily for the fishing industry, mainly for crayfish (a manna which died out after an epidemic of crayfish plague in 1884), which supported a large number of families until the 19th century. Water again was at the origin of the developing and later flourishing industries of silk spinning, paper manufacture, fabric dye, milling … There were at least 70 waterwheels in use in the 19th century. Nowadays, the town is as well-known for its tourist industry as for the pleasant way of life in the surrounding countryside, sculpted by water and agriculture. Since the Sixties, l’Isle sur la Sorgue has also been renowned as an indisputable hub for antiques, second-hand goods and art galleries, taking third place in Europe behind Saint-Ouen and London. To linger in l’Isle sur la Sorgue is to rub shoulders with the old and the new with ease, to take the time to explore, to gaze around as you walk and observe, question, savor the moment … perhaps with your feet in the cool waters.

Things to see and do... The Musée Campredon-Centre d'Art, the Musée de la Poupée et du Jouet Ancien, the Musée de l'Ecole d'Autrefois, the Maison Biehn. The Festival de la Sorgue in July The Pêche d'Antan organized by the Confrérie des Pescaïres Lilen demonstrating old-fashioned fishing techniques. The Corso nautique on the last weekend in July. The floating market on the first Sunday in August, where merchants in their traditional, flat-bottomed boats selling their produce to buyers on the banks of the river. Horse-racing in July and August. The Foire Internationale Brocante & Antiquités, Foire Internationale d’Art contemporain, Foire Internationale du Livre Ancien FILA (Easter and 15th August). Tourist information website: www.oti-delasorgue.fr

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Luberon | Wine estate – Wine tourism |

Aureto – wines of tradition I

n the heart of the Luberon, on the D900 between Goult and Apt, can be found the Aureto wine estate, one of the emblematic producers in the region. A land of vines and passion expressed in PDO Luberon and Ventoux wines. A winery, a sales area, and a wine warehouse allow aficionados to discover traditionally produced red, rosé and white vintages. You can explore Domaine Aureto by yourself (with an explanatory booklet) or with a guide along the Sentier Vigneron (on Wednesday mornings). Guided tours

of the warehouse on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 6 pm (groups by appointment) are also possible. Discover Aureto wines at wine and food pairing evenings at La Coquillade (there is a "pink" evening on 4th July and a "red" evening on 31st October).

NEW LUNCHTIME IDEA AT THE AURETO CELLAR The Caravane, STREET CANTEEN SANDWICHES AND SALADS WITH A DIFFERENCE WEDNESDAY, THURSDAY, AND FRIDAY LUNCHTIMES

Bal du rosé on 15th August On 15th August, head for Domaine Aureto for an exceptional all-day event centered on the tasting of rosé wines. From 7 pm onwards, there will be a wine bar atmosphere, gourmet selections and a dessert buffet … The music for the evening will be provided by the group Story Jazz.

Tasting workshops Come and steep in wine culture by participating in a Domaine Aureto workshop (Saturday mornings at 10 am).Sensory analysis of the four basic tastes (salty, sweet, sour, bitter), a nose to recognize essences and aromas, and tasting form the three parts of these workshops. These take place from April to September and reservation is obligatory (15€ per person). Out of season, groups of 4 to 10 persons can be catered for.

AURETO WINE CELLAR TASTING

PDO Ventoux – PDO Luberon – PGI Vaucluse D 900, chemin des Lièvres - 84220 Goult GPS: 043° 51.47' N, 05° 17.12' E Open 7 days a week from 10 am to 7 pm from April to October On-line sales: www.aureto-online.fr

AURETO WINE WAREHOUSE

Wine cellar tours and grape growers’ footpaths Hameau de la Coquillade - Perrotet – 84400 Gargas Tel.: +33 (0) 490 74 54 67 - Email: info@aureto.fr Website: www.aureto.fr - GPS: 043° 52.81' N, 005° 19.02' E THE

Aureto is the wine estate for the three restaurants at La Coquillade Hôtel *****, a Relais & Châteaux establishement

Gordes: a jewel in Luberon THE VILLAGE OF BORIES On the slopes of the Vaucluse mountains, facing the Luberon mountains, the Bories village with its sheep-pens, stone bread ovens, wine vats, threshing areas, narrow alleys and “city walls” bears witness to the numerous generations of hard working people that have inhabited this place. Since the Bories (a "borie" is a stone hut characteristic of the Apt area), can be traced back to the Bronze Age, it is about 3000 years of continuity that one contemplates, the newest huts having been built in the XVIIIth century. The French Governacing Mount Luberon, Gordes spirals upwards towards the limpid Pro- ment has classified the Bories Village vencal sky around a spectacular outcrop of rock rising from the Vau- a Historical Monument in 1977. It is cluse hills. Its cobbled streets meander among tall houses built direct- the most important group of houses ly on the rock of moun- tainsides vibrant of a thousand stories and of its kind in the region. legends. Gordes is further enriched by the presence of a visual arts tradition The Village, neglected for over a century had suffered the assaults of time that has inspired such painters as André Lhote, Marc Chagall, Jean Deyrol- and was disap- pearing under the overgrowth. It had also been used as a le, Victor Vasarely, Pol Mara and others. resource for cheap building materials. Thus, it was high time to restore and

While strolling through the old village cobbled alleys you will discover its treasures : one of them is the cellars under the Palace Saint Firmin ( Historic Monument). The surrounding leave you the choice of three exceptional sites, classed as Historic Monu- ments: the Village of Bories, the Cistercian Abbey of Senanque and the Gallo-Roman Bouillons Mill.

preserve it. The Village, which is a rare and fine example of spontaneous architecture, is well integrated to its surroundings. This is due to the use of natural raw materials, and a design using a minimum of shapes and means. It is now under protection, yet open to visitors. Organised as a museum it shows a rural habitat and exhibits a collection of objects and tools traditionally used in the area. There is also a whole documentation on Gordes' History, the Bories and the tradition of building without mortar in France and in the world.

To discover the Bories Village is a unique experience. One cannot but be touched by the harmony of the horizontal and vertical lines; the balance between minerals and vegetation, the play between shadows and light, particularly at the rising or setting sun; time best suited for a visit. Information : Ph : (33) 4.90.72.03.48 Fax : (33) 4.90.72.04.39 Open every day from 9.00 am to sunset. Parking: Buses: 1.7 km away from the Village, Senior Citizens: the Municipality of Gordes organises a shuttle bus, free of charge. To book the bus, please Phone: (33) 4.90.72.02.08 Fax : (33) 4.90.72.04.39

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Gordes | Festival |

Gordes | Exhibition |

An exceptional setting for exceptional evenings!

Reza and the ups and downs of the world at the castle

arm summer evenings in Provence, in a site that views the Luberon, the festival offers outstanding evenings for all, with all types of entertainment. Summer 2014 in Gordes will be decidedly young, energetic, dynamic and festive. Don’t miss any of the summer evenings, inspired by you and dreamed up for you. Les Franglaises, a brilliantly talented musical group, gets the season off to a flying start with their genial interactivity, their enthusiasm and their humor. Also present are the brothers of the Trio Joubran who will swathe you in the music of their ouds and their delicate, fragrant, exhilarating percussion … taking you to a musical seventh heaven! Then there’s Thomas Dutronc, brilliant in his roguish gipsy jazz repertoire, a style he excels in. Roberto Fonseca, a brilliant pianist, will also be there, blending his Cuban origins to Malian songs and music, surrounded by other remarkable artistes including the enchanting Fatoumata Diawara. Last but not least is “L’Etudiante & Monsieur Henri” that has been captivating French audiences since 2012, and Le Quatuor that Gordes has been hoping to see for so long … Well, 2014 is going to be the year! Welcome to all the charming, delightful and inimitable participants in this summer’s festival.

he exhibition event of the famous photojournalist Reza will be in the Château de Gordes from 23rd June to 2nd November. Reza is a philanthropist, an idealist, a humanitarian, an architect at heart, and a famous photojournalist (notably for National Geographic) who has been travelling the world for over 30 years and revealing the pain and the joy of those he has met along the way. Reza has been to more than a hundred countries, taking photos of wars, revolutions and human disasters.

Saturday 2nd August: Les Franglaises (music) Monday 4th August: L’Etudiante & Monsieur Henri (play) Wednesday 6th August: Thomas Dutronc (music) Friday 8th August: Le Trio Joubran (jazz) Sunday 10th August: Fatoumata Diawara & Roberto Fonseca (piano) Tuesday 12th August: Le Quatuor (music and humour) All shows begin at 9.30 pm. Reservations: 04 90 72 05 35 www.soireesdegordes.fr

“The world is my field of vision. From war to peace, from the ineffable to moments of poetry, my images are evidence of our humanity on the roads around the world.” From 23rd June to 2nd November Château de Gordes Open every day from 10 am to 1 pm and from 2 pm to 6.30 pm Information at: 04 90 72 98 64.

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Coustellet | Vision Plus Optician - Sunglasses and spectacles |

Elegance and originality: the trademark of major brands

Whether you want sunglasses or spectacles, Jérôme and Cédric, your Vision Plus opticians in Coustellet, have a large selection of frames for all styles and lenses for all types of correction. Advice, service, quality and a lot of choice, particularly from major brands, for AFNOR certified expertise along with a professionalism that inspires confidence in local customers and visitors alike. Sunglasses:

A look that fits your vision...

protect your eyes in style!

Classical or offbeat but always naturally elegant … the best known brands are waiting for you at Vision Plus with summer collections by Chanel, Givenchy, Zadig & Voltaire, Starck, Eleven Paris, and also Ray Ban, Vogue, Stella Mc Cartney, Oliver Peoples, Paul Smith, as well as Persol, Humphrey's, Air Ligh, Stepper... On the more whimsical side are sunshine colors by Pépé Jeans, Opposit’s offbeat style with citrus colors and curves, while Façonnable reveals their refined French Riviera line, starting at 180 € (frames only)*.

With models for both women and men, in retro, design, classical, and timeless styles in all shapes and materials, Vision Plus protects your eyes and ensures your stylishness with references in the field from Chanel, Vogue, Stella Mc Cartney, Persol, Ray ban, Tom Ford, Pépé jeans, and Maui Jim for technical sunglasses... The Isabel Marant limited series Vision Plus: Summer Offers of mirror lenses by By Oliver Peoples is indispensable as are the fun and offbeat sunglasses V-I-P collection sunglasses by Opposit... not forgetting Oakley exper- Exclusively from Vision Plus. Fashionable sunglasses at 29 €!* tise for sports activities.

- 50 % off the second pair! Brand name frames in store (reduction on the AFNOR: your optician is committed to... cheaper of the two pairs)* - Protecting your privacy - Receiving and advising you

Vision Plus packages... - Working with your eye doctor An example: packs with frames and prescription - Supervising and ensuring the quality of his or sunglass unifocal, scratch resistant unifocal, or services - Providing personalized customer service anti-glare unifocal lenses at 37, 57 and 87 € * - Ensuring your satisfaction

Provision of services throughout the Vision Plus network. Payment in 3 or 4 instalments with no extra charge. Third party payment. Breakage, adjustment, quality, maintenance guarantees. English Spoken.

*See Vision Plus for conditions.

104, route de Cavaillon (Across from Place du Marché) - 84660 Coustellet – Tel.: 04 90 05 85 51 Parking for clients in front of the shop, easy access. Opening hours: Monday to Saturday from 9 am to noon and from 2.15 pm to 7 pm. 17

A landscape worked by Rustrel ochre miners

The Legacy of the Ochre Miners

lthough Rustrel started later in the ochre industry than the other villages around Apt, the town’s ironworks already had notable industrial experience. Well before ochre sands were quarried, iron ore had been extracted first for the blast furnaces in Velleron and then, later, for local use. There were four blast furnaces in the Saint-Pierre and Notre-Dame des Anges quarters of Rustrel. First there was the Roussillon red mountain then other villages followed with farmers who found work in for winter in this industry, land owners who could exploit uncultivated but ochre-rich land, and entrepreneurs for whom it was a business opportunity. Some villages opened their quarries so as to bring work to inhabitants faced with serious agricultural crises. In 1871, Jean Allemand who would come to be known as “Jean de l’ocre”, was the first to exploit Rustrel’s ochre. Until the survey in 1885 that was requested by the Prefecture, no declaration was deemed necessary when a new quarry was opened. In the municipal archives of 1885, the “pink book” mentions the names of several ochre miners. The upshot in Rustrel was several generations of ochre miners. Later, from the 1890s onwards, it became a veritable industry with quarries carving huge gashes in the hillsides, washing installations with multicolored glints, and factories with gigantic hangars. The dirt tracks suffered from the cartage that resulted from all this activity. Needles, cliffs, ravines, and galleries are all due to the work of man. The landscape was later fashioned by erosion. Extraction, washing and production made up the better known part of ochre mining. At the peak of the ochre industry period, ochre miners had two main worries – transport and energy. As it is a product for exportation, being able to transport it by train much helped the development of the industry. In fact, the demand for ochre was clear and came from all over the world. Indeed, it became necessary to increase production to meet the heavy demands made by the market, causing the ochre miners to set up steam engines then, later, heat engines running on lean gas or fuel oil. Here again, there remain traces, mostly in period documents – postcards, headed writing paper, plans and documents from constructors’ catalogs, quantity notes, newspaper articles (The Apt Mercure and the Illustration Economique) along with some very rare business archives. Towards 1890, two bigger companies were set up by the Rustrel ochre miners - Ets Marius

Lamy and Ets Paul Chauvin. Many other Rustrel ochre miners set up small businesses that had, in some cases, their own mines and a sales network so they could export on a world scale. The remains of this legacy are, firstly, archive documents and period photos. Then there is the equipment. The equipment from the Lamy factory in Apt was acquired by the Conservatoire de l’Ocre and the Musée de l’Industrie in Apt. Finally, when hiking through the “Colorado”, even if many of the buildings no longer exist or are only barely visible ruins, an inquiring mind may find remains that are essentially linked to the supply of water or to the carts used for mucking. Note also that the beautifully colored and sculpted landscapes are the result of the miners’ work as well as the effects of erosion. By Dominique Bel

Dominique Bel is an engineer and trainer who spent over 10 years visiting ochre mines and continues to conduct extensive research into ochre quarries. He gives explanations and tells stories about the techniques used and the social life in bygone times. He is also a photographer and has made explanatory slide presentations. Besides this, he is a member of several local associations working on safeguarding the local heritage. You can contact him via the A.D.E.P., le Logis neuf 84400 Rustrel. (Tel. 04 90 04 96 07 or 06 81 86 82 20)

Tools belonging to Roger Arnaud, the last ochre miner in Rustrel

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Joucas | Hôtel***** - Restaurant |

estling between Calavon valley and Grand Luberon and overlooking Joucas, a Luberon beauty spot, sits Le Mas des Herbes Blanches, a 5-star Relais & Châteaux hotel. The drystone wall complex is surrounded by the lush greenery of the hillside and offers all the appeal and authenticity of nights, weekends, theme holidays (sports, cycling, gold, tennis, and swimming pool), and gourmet food enjoyed in comfort and leisure, for nature lovers and romantics alike. This is the perfect gift for you or for someone else to (re)discover the real Luberon. The establishment's website gives more information on the current offers. You can eat on the terrace while admiring the sun setting over a superb view, or in the warm and charming dining room - Le Mas des Herbes Blanches has much to tempt your taste buds. Orchestrating all this is Xavier Burelle, a recent arrival, elaborating menus of Provençal and Mediterranean inspiration. He takes pleasure

Summertime at Le Mas des Herbes Blanches

dens of yesteryear. Le Mas des Herbes Blanches, for the sheer pleasure of being entertained Luberonstyle. in sublimating produce and flavors, inspired by the southern accent and local seasonal produce, by sundrenched orchards and kitchen gardens, by cheeses, by local farm produce and by freshly-landed fish. The current à la carte and evening menus are enticing with local aspa-

ragus meunière, foie gras-stuffed squab pigeon, langoustines in a coconut milk and kaffir lime emulsion, John Dory, line-caught sea bass, bream with courgette flowers, braised beef cheek, panisse with a light anchovy sauce, veal chops, and rack of lamb. There are things to captivate the finest palates on the

cheeseboard too with cheeses by Josiane Deal (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) and among the desserts, “After Eight à ma façon”, a rather unusual lemon tart accompanied by a rum baba or Limoncello sorbet, and a strawberry-rhubarb crisp in honor of the garTHE

RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX - LE MAS DES HERBES BLANCHES Lieu dit Toron - Joucas – 84220 Gordes Tel.: 33 (0)4 90 05 79 79 - Fax: 33 (0)4 90 05 71 96 Email: reservation@herbesblanches.com Website: www.herbesblanches.com Open 7 days a week. In the evening, à la carte menu, tasting menu at 95 €.

All family or professional events can be catered for. Airport/HST station shuttle. Heliport

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Luberon | Gardens – Heritage – Landscaping |

Silvasud holds the key to a progressive garden

ilvasud can draw up a project for a garden that will last because of their use of sustainable infrastructure. This family business employs the same skills and expertise whatever the size of your garden. “It’s a real challenge for us!” explains the manager, Luc Percie du Sert. “Our teams go on site and examine the soil from an agronomic and technical point of view. We also take lighting

and watering into consideration because over 80% of the success of a garden lies in what you don’t see.” As your garden is your haven of peace, your go-to area, it needs to adapt over the years according to your means, your tastes, the age of your children, and so on. Their expertise in regional conditions is indispensible to the success of your outdoor projects (whether you live there full-time or not) and is Silva-

sud’s trademark. They also offer tailored garden maintenance solutions. “It is essential to keep a regular, attentive eye on things. And that means much more than simply mowing the lawn,” continues Luc Percie du Sert. “Our very capable technicians notice plant deficiencies and know when to use plant health products … You can’t afford to make a mistake and you must able to adapt to Mediterranean condi-

tions.” This is a key factor when you are helping the client with his or her wildest dreams … Silvasud has been environment experts for ten years now, with one golden rule – never forget that the feasibility survey of a garden is more important that the ornamental effect if you want it to last. The rule has yet to be proved wrong.

SILVASUD ENVIRONNEMENT & SILVASUD PATRIMOINE

Rue de la Lauze – 84220 Cabrières d’Avignon Tel.: 09 75 43 87 39. Mob : 06 24 15 63 47 Silvasud@wanadoo.fr www.Silvasud-environnement.fr www.Silvasud-patrimoine.fr

LE JARDIN JACQUES ROUY

978, chemin des cris verts - 84000 Avignon Tel.: 04 90 82 43 60 – jacques-rouy@wanadoo.fr www.lejardinjacquesrouy.fr THE

A carpet of sedum can easily replace a lawn for small surfaces and arid areas

Aix-en-Provence | Towns

and villages | [5] [4]

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[13] 1 Aix-en-Provence

Visiting Aix is like stepping back in time. Culture and architectural wealth is all around you. A simple stroll in the town is all it takes to discover its treasures. Aix is a spa town and a town of the arts and has developed and flourished around this dual identity. However, it is also a town that combines eras and cultures. Aix is in touch with the outside world; it is a human-size town in harmony with its rich cultural heritage and its vision of tomorrow. Here, all is color and sensation – the luminosity of the sky, the golden stone of the buildings, the green transparency of the fountains, the shade of the plane trees, and the surprises of festival evenings… Welcome to Aix en Provence.

2 Eguilles

Éguilles has managed to remain authentic over the centuries. Perched on a hilltop at 300m altitude, surrounded by fields and forests, it has a remarkable view over the Provençal countryside. The nearby hamlet of Figons is attached to the town of Éguilles and enjoys the same sheltered rural surroundings.

3 Fuveau

16 kms from Aix-en-Provence, at the foot of Sainte-Victoire, sits Fuveau, a charming hilltop village. It is typically Provençal in style with steep alleys, a superb and imposing neo-gothic church heavily inspired by the Italian Baroque style. The heart of the village, the cours Victor Leydet, lazes in the shade of the plane trees. Take the time to wander through the narrow, winding streets of the village and appreciate the evidence of its mediaeval history. One of the last vestiges of this period is the Porte de Bassac (1.5m thick) which was the slant-wise entrance on the south side of the village walls.

4 Lambesc

The appeal of Lambesc is its rich heritage, the beauty of the sites, its history, its authenticity, its excellent wines and the hospitality of the local residents and shopkeepers. Take advantage of your stay to discover the Mme de Sévigné’s house. This superb town house is also known under the names of Hôtel Faudran de Laval and Hôtel des Deux Lions.

5 La Roque d’Anthéron

La Roque d’Anthéron is known the world over for its celebrated piano festival that takes place every summer, bringing together the greatest piano players in the magical locations of the abbaye de Silvacane and the Château de Florans. The architecture of the Abbaye de Silvacane (built in the early 12th century) is impressive in its purity, simplicity and perfection. It is one of the “three Provençal sisters” of the Cistercian order alongside the Abbaye du Thoronet and the Abbaye de Sénanque near Gordes. You must see the Château de Florans; it has a magnificent courtyard delicately shaded by plane trees, palm trees and chestnut trees.

6 Le Tholonet

Le Tholonet was one of Cézanne’s favorite places; red earth, gray rocks, and an intense blue sky forming a backdrop to Sainte-Victoire – all in all, an extraordinary palette of colors. Cezanne also painted the Château du Tholonet which is one of the stages in the Cezanne tour, tracing the key sites in the painter’s life in the Aix region. On leaving the castle, you will pass in front of the "Relais Cézanne" and then a small church.

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[3] [11] 7 Meyrargues

Meyrargues is a mediaeval village nestling in the Durance valley at the foot of a feudal castle that looks down on the village from a high promontory. The castle was converted in the 17th century by the Albertas family and named after them. Nowadays the castle is a 4 star hotel. In the valley behind the castle, if you take the road to the cemetery you will see the remains of a Roman aqueduct that used to serve the town of Aix en Provence.

8 Meyreuil

The village of Meyreuil is set on a picturesque hill surrounded by typically Provençal houses giving on to the plain. The village has some spectacular view points on Sainte-Victoire. You might enjoy a stroll along the river Arc and don’t miss the famous Pont des Trois Sautets (1655) that was painted by Paul Cézanne.

9 Rognes

Rognes is a very old town located between Salon de Provence and Aix en Provence, not far from the banks of the Durance River. The origins of the town dates as far back as the Stone Age and it climbs the side of Foussa (the name of the hill) in tiers. It was built, destroyed, and rebuilt several times over the centuries until a terrible day in 1909 when an earthquake almost razed it. At that point it was definitively abandoned. Nowadays, the village sits peacefully at the foot of the hill and still has a few narrow streets and buildings that survived the catastrophe. Rognes is also renowned for the quality of its stone that has been extracted from nearby open pit quarries for nearly 20 centuries …

10 Saint-Cannat

As you walk through Saint-Cannat, you will come across several 17th and 18th century fountains, old washhouses and the posterns that are the remains of the mediaeval ramparts. Don’t miss the village museum that houses information on Saint-Cannat and its history. There are exhibitions about Provençal dress, agricultural tools, the 1909 earthquake and Bailli de Suffren (Bailli de Suffren was one of the greatest French sailors of his period) who was born in the castle that now houses both the town hall and the museum.

11 Trets

Ramparts surround the heart of the town and shelter small streets and secret gardens. There are numerous vestiges of the past to visit: the feudal castle and ramparts, two square gate-towers, the Notre-Dame de Nazareth church, and the Saint Jean du Puy chapel.

12 Vauvenargues

Outside the village, nestling in greenery, the Château de Vauvenargues seems to watch over the entrance to the valley. Flanked by two round 14th century towers and surrounded by a 16th century wall, its eventful history dates back to the days of the Counts of Provence. We know that in 1257 the castle belonged to the archbishops of Aix and that, in 1722, Louis XV gave it to a certain Joseph de Clapiers for good and loyal service during the plague of 1720… and that, in 1958, the castle became the property of the world-famous painter Pablo Picasso who, according to his wishes, made it his eternal resting place …

13 Ventabren

Ventabren is a pretty little village sitting atop a hill dominated by the ruins of Queen Jeanne’s castle. In the village, you’re sure to fall under the charm of the paved streets bordered with flowers and flanked by charming houses made of stone and restored with care. Take the stonepaved Grande Rue (which is quite small despite its name) that climbs towards the delightful little Place de l'Eglise. Many of the house doors are antiques and are surrounded by lush vegetation. The shutters are painted with taste in Provençal colors and are a little faded by the sun. You will also see charming fountains and washhouses as well as a 17th century church. This list is not exhaustive. Do not hesitate to consult our website, www.journaldesaixois.fr, to discover all the wealth of our heritage.

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Saint-Cannat | Restaurant – Hôtel*** |

Le Mas de Fauchon, a unique location for creative cuisine!

as de Fauchon, part of Châteaux-Hôtels-Collection, is a 3-star hotel with 16 bedrooms (all with private terrace and access to the swimming pool) nestling in the pine forest located in the country side of Aix en Provence. Benefiting from an exceptionally environment, also provides a magical backdrop for weddings and receptions, business tourism. The restaurant is open every day for lunch and dinner, The perfect venue for a romantic dinner for two, with friends or familly, the restaurant of the Mas serves refined and creative Mediterranean-style cuisine in a truly

exceptional ambiance. The restaurant's vast terrace offers sweeping views over the Ecuries de la Touloubre. Respectful of the products of the nature and the work passionate about producers, Nicolas Chouchanian Chef of the kitchen uses noble, gourmet products to concoct his culinary delights. A constantly-renewed seasonal cuisine, New dishes are constantly added to our menu according to the season. The restaurant also offers 3 set menus featuring the Chef's suggestions of the day. Barbara Piel Chouchanian, manager of the establishment, “I call it my house passion, when you cross the gate of the Mas you will discover the heart of Provence, but above all was a house of family, renovated by my mom... Here I cultivate the art to receive, to treat, to share : a lifestyle simply.”

LE MAS DE FAUCHON

1666, ch. de Berre - Quartier Fauchon - 13760 St-Cannat Tel. 04 42 50 61 77 - www.masdefauchon.fr Facebook.com/pages/MAS-DE-FAUCHON Open 7 days a week, midi et soir.

THE

Dinner and a jazz concert (27th of june and 1st of August : Menillo and is trio) (29th of August and 26th of September : music of the world, brasilien…)

Provence | Tradition |

Coupo Santo: The tale of an anthem F

estivities in Provence often come to an end with the legendary song, La Coupo Santo, and the words “Provençal people, this is the cup that the Catalans gave us…” The song was composed by Frédéric Mistral for the Félibrige. This year will be the 150th anniversary of the founding of the Félibrige, a movement that defended and promoted the Provençal language and culture and eventually extended to the whole of the langue d’Oc region. Though now less dynamic than in the 19th century, the Félibrige is still active. It was at the origin of all the other groups that work to promote the langue d’Oc languages and cultures.

berately create a myth. From 1876, the Coupo was at the core of what was to be a veritable ritual. This ritual would be celebrated at the Félibres’ annual assembly on Saint Estelle’s feast day, for Whitsun. At the end of a copious banquet, Coupo Santo in hand, the Capoulièr would give a speech ending with a toast, followed by all those present and rounded up with the song itself …

The rites associated with Coupo Santo…

The history of La Cansoun de la Coupo is a reminder of the deep ties that have always existed between Provence and Catalonia; both are former principalities that were under the power of the same dynasty in the 12th and 13th centuries. Although this was also the reason for the Blood and Gold flags that fly here and on the other side of the Pyrenees, the creation of La Cansoun de la Coupo stems from political and literary events in the 19th century. Mistral’s intentions were to contact other European regional movements once the Félibrige was founded. In 1867, the opportunity to do so came his way. Victor Balaguer, a Catalan politician and poet, was obliged to leave his country and seek political asylum. He stayed in Avignon for a while and was taken in by the Félibres. The legend says that the Catalan people commissioned the sculptor Guillaume Fulconis (1818-1873) to make a small silver cup to thank their Provençal counterparts for their hospitality towards Balaguer. The gift was offered to the Félibres in Avignon on 30th July 1867.

All of this certainly resembles other, older, rituals. Let’s start with the Last Supper eaten by Christ with his disciples where he initiated Holy Communion. Then, later, the myth of the Holy Grail and the Knights of the Round Table and Freemasonry agapes both stemmed from the same Christian tradition. The number 7 is also very important in La Cansoun de la Coupo. The song counts 7 verses and each line of these has 7 syllables. This number, the symbol of completion and of life, is linked to the ancient cult of Apollo, god of the eternal sun. In any case, the number 7 is omnipresent in all the Félibrige customs. One of the movement’s emblems is a 7-pointed star. Created according to legend by 7 founders called Primadié, the Félibrige also has 7 regions… Of course, none of this is accidental… We can even state that it was quite deliberate on behalf of Mistral and his friends, so as to give the Félibrige more charisma and appeal. And let’s not forget that the 19th century literati were steeped in romanticism and symbolism and drawn to anything that had even the slightest whiff of esoterism… Apparently, Victor Balaguer was a Freemason, as were several Félibres, Jean Brunet, for instance, as well as a cousin of Napoléon III, the Irishman William Bonaparte-Wyse. We can be practically certain that Bonaparte-Wyse was at the origin of a great number of the Félibrige traditions…

From legend to reality…

Nowadays …

It’s a nice legend and it’s partly true. However, nowadays we know that the Coupo was mainly paid for by the Provençal people themselves because the event gave them a powerful symbol for their budding cause … The cup is a chalice with two feminine figurines (Catalonia and Provence) with an arm round each other, forming the stem. Mistral composed La Cansoun de la Coupo so as to formally thank the Catalans; it is set to the music of an old Christmas carol, attributed to Nicolas Saboly. From the very outset, the intention of this poetic project was to quite deli-

La Cansoun de la Coupo, simply referred to as La Coupo Santo nowadays, has become the anthem of the Félibrige movement and of Provence. This is why it can often be heard at village fetes, bull-running and bull-fighting events and, occasionally, at family get-togethers. Generally speaking, it follows the same routine. So as not to take too long, only three verses are sung: the first, the second and the seventh (and last). The purists insist that you should only stand for the last verse. This is a fairly recent tradition and appears to be a deliberate attempt at refuting any accusation of separatism from France. The custom of standing for the last verse dates from the end of the First World War and it is done in memory of the Catalans who died for France. Thus their honor is saved … In fact, there was absolutely no reason not to stand for the Provençal anthem for fear of being considered a separatist because it was done in honor of soldiers who died for France! Finally, for these same purists, you must never applaud at the end of the song … In the name of progress, couldn’t we just accept that La Coupo Santo is an anthem in its own right nowadays? Then we could simply stand and sing only the first verse and chorus as for any other national anthem? The Spanish and the British stand to sing their regional anthems without being accused of separatism! As for applause, people often applaud the Marseillaise at sporting events. The best traditions are those that move with the times… However, we can be sure that the Félibrige founders would never have dreamt that, 150 years after their movement started, La Coupo Santo would have become so important. Undeniably, it holds a very special place in the hearts of the Provençal people.

Provence and Catalonia: age-old links revived in the 19th century …

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Eguilles | Cellier d’Eguilles |

All the pleasures of wine – from walks to tasting

ith four of the twenty medals won this winter in various competitions being gold, Le Cellier d’Eguilles has just made a leap forward in the world of wine. The PDO Coteaux d’Aixen-Provence rosés (Ophélie in the Concours Général Agricole des Vins in Paris and Le Sieur in the Concours International des Vins in Lyon, which also earned a silver medal from the Mondial du Rosé in Cannes) and the PGI Bouches-du-Rhône reds (Marselan in the Concours des Vins d’Aix and Merlot in the Concours National des Vins IGP de France) are now references in the wine-growing world. In the boutique in the heart of the village you will find bottles containing a number of local specialties: oils, terrines, and condiments. Not only savory flavors, but treats for sweet tooths too, with cordials and preserves. These are genuine delights to enjoy with a glass of rosé, red, or white wine. And there are carefully selected wines that are in the process of obtaining certification by Agriconfiance. Now that the highly successful Fête de la Vigne et du Vin is over, Le Cellier d’Eguilles is actively getting ready for the Fête des Vendanges that will occur THE

By Remi Venture

on a Sunday in September. Fans of the wine world can discover estates and talk to dedicated winegrowers, proud of passing on their skills and knowledge. Another important event is Les Balades Vigneronnes en Provence (a walk + a tour of the cellar + tasting). This will take place in Eguilles on 18th September and 1st November.

LA BOUTIQUE AND LE CELLIER D’EGUILLES 30, av.du Père Sylvain Giraud – 13510 Eguilles Tel.: 04 42 92 38 19 - Fax: 04 42 28 24 53 Email : celliereguilles@orange.fr Order from www.lecellierdeguilles.fr Open from Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 12.30 pm and from 2 pm to 7 pm. Open on Sundays from 9 am to 1 pm. Private car park for customers.

+ Unusual gift boxes that you can complete with carafes or corkscrews 22

Eguilles | Discovery |

A stroll through the heart of Provence Over the centuries, the village of Eguilles has managed to maintain its authenticity. Located at an altitude of 300 m, surrounded by fields and forest, it has a remarkable view over the Provençal countryside. The nearby hamlet of Figons is connected to Eguilles and also enjoys a sheltered rural setting at only twenty minutes from the Cours Mirabeau in Aix-en-Provence.

he village of Eguilles is situated in the very heart of Provence and is home to a dynamic community combining craftsmen, industry, services and shops arising from the development of trade, the increase in population in the Aix region and traditional agricultural activities. Narrow streets, old stones, wash houses, monuments, bories … a stroll through the village (located on the Route des Vins) and in the surrounding countryside gives a good idea of this. Here and there, wherever you look, is as much evidence of the past as of modern day life with all its authenticity and quality of living… This is a village that lives with its time, combining the past and present to better build its future. Should proof be required that Eguilles is firmly rooted in Provençal traditions and customs, it can be seen in the village’s participation in a major European event, La Routo. La Routo follows transhumance paths with the ambition of creating a hiking trail of nearly 400 km based on former droveways, showing the various aspects of grassland farming, stretching from the Camargue and Crau plains to the Stura valley (Italy). The town council is also actively involved in protecting the agricultural zones in and around the village from the pressure of urban planning and development. Eguilles is in vine country and maintains a remarkable quality of living notably due to the preservation of woodland areas such as the Parc de Fontlaure, the place to head for if you’re looking for a little coolness in the heat of the summer for a special picnic. You could also decide to have lunch at La Marelle, a gastronomic restaurant known to gourmets far and wide … Another point of interest in the village is Max Sauze’s Jardin Remarquable, just a stone’s throw from the community hall, where you can immerse yourself in an imaginative garden, redesigned by a quite remarkable 80 year-old sculptor. The garden is a blend of luxurious vegetation and exceptional works of art and can only be visited by appointment (+33 6 03 77 67 40)… Finally, for the last year, the village has had a new asset. It is located right on the road from Rome to Santiago de Compostela. A sign-post between the town hall and the Office de Tourisme, shows this (on branch GR563A, between Menton and Arles). So let’s get those cameras out and use them! Eguilles Office de Tourisme: +33 4 42 92 49 15 Saturday 21st June: Fête de la Musique, 9.30 pm, place Gabriel Payeur Saturday 28th June: Fête des Figons, games for children during the day, Figons carpark; 19h, concert and drinks, meal, dance... Monday 30th June - Sunday 6th July: “3 Regards” exhibition, salle Frédéric Mistral Friday 4th July: Operatella, 8.30 pm, Espace Georges Duby, Time travel through 4 centuries of opera in 44 minutes and 44 seconds Monday 7th - Friday 11th July: "Les oeuvres de Rosalin" exhibition, salle Frédéric Mistral

Wednesday 9th July: 8 pm, conference in Espace Georges Duby, 9 pm, The Enchanted Flute by Mozart broadcast live from the Festival d’Aix-en-Provence. Bookings at the Office de Tourisme

Friday 22nd - Sunday 24th August: Fête de la Saint-Julien, 9 pm, Zumba evening; Saturday 23rd, 10.30 am to 12.30 pm and from 2 pm to 4.30 pm, boulevard Léonce Artaud, games, face painting; 11.30 am – 2.30 pm – 4.30 pm: three street parades; 7 pm, free drinks, meal by advance booking. Illuminated parade, dance with live music; Sunday 24th, 11 am, mass for Saint Julian, 12 pm, drinks with music, place Gabriel Payeur...

Friday 11th - Monday 14th July: the funfair takes over Place du Mail in the evening Saturday 12th: dance with a flurry of blue, white and red confetti Sunday 13th and Monday 14th: boules competition, boulevard Léonce Artaud. Sunday, fun competition (parents-children). Monday, competition for experienced players. Registration: 06 10 31 32 57 - 04 42 28 24 38

Saturday 20th September, 9pm: Sound and light show, projection mapping on the castle walls Saturday 20th and Sunday 21st September: European Heritage Days, Fontelaure park and residence will be open to the public. Monday 14th: 7 pm, drinks in front of the town hall followed by a giant paella. Booking: Alain Traiteur (in the village market, rue du Grand Logis); 10 pm, mayor’s speech, fireworks and dance Friday 8th - Wednesday 13th August: exhibition of works by Alain Albert, salle Frédéric Mistral Sunday 17th August: 70th anniversary of the Provence landing and liberation of the Aix region, 11.30 am – 2.45 pm, Place de la Mairie, with 60 soldiers in uniform and 25 vehicles 23

Eguilles Office de Tourisme - Place de la Mairie +33 (0)4 42 92 49 15 - tourisme@mairie-eguilles.fr

Salon Region | Towns

and villages |

1 Salon de Provence

Located 30 km or so from Aix-en-Provence, Salon de Provence is a charming town whose motto is “un nouvel art de vivre en Provence” (a different lifestyle in Provence). With its castle and many fountains, Salon has remained a town on a human scale. Salon was also the setting for the prophecies of Nostradamus.

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2 Saint-Chamas

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Sitting astride a range of coastal hills, Saint Chamas is a village on the northern banks of the Etang de Barre. The village is divided into two parts. One the one side it opens up onto a pine forest and hills and on the other onto a charming little marina. Several pleasantly shaded public squares add charm and open space to the village (Place Betirac, Place de l'Eglise).

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3 Alleins

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When passing through Alleins you will discover 4000 years of history, listed buildings and events that all go to make it a dynamic and cultural village.

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4 Lamanon

Before reaching the village, you will see a delightful little road lined with plane trees that leads to the gates of the Château de Lamanon. This superb (privately owned) residence is surrounded by a lush green park and was built in 1660 for one of the lords of Cadenet. Located between Salon de Provence and Cavaillon, Lamanon is a lovely little town that sits peacefully at the edge of the Alpilles.

[7] [2] [6]

5 Eyguières

Eyguières is a small town located at the extreme east of the Alpilles and it probably has the largest number of springs and fountains in the region. Whatever the season and whatever the temperature, in summer as in winter, water always flows in Eyguières… so you can expect to see a number of charming fountains - fontaine Coquille, fontaine Cocotte and fontaine des Bormes, among others.

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6 Velaux

Velaux is an attractive old Provençal village set on a knoll that overlooks the countryside to the west of Aix. It is strategically located in the middle of the Aix-Marseille-Salon triangle and is surrounded by lush countryside and vineyards. Velaux is fortunate enough to benefit from the peace of the countryside while remaining close to the major urban centers in the region.

11 Pélissanne

Pelissane is a located in the middle of the Bouches du Rhone department, near Salon de Provence, and on the banks of the Touloubre. When you visit it you will discover a maze of streets winding and intertwining around the old town center.

7 La Fare les Oliviers

12 La Barben

La Fare les Oliviers is located half way between Aix-en-Provence and Salon de Provence. As its name indicates, the town’s history is closely entwined with olive-growing. Above the village is the Castellas, the ruins of the castrum that was located there and that was at the origin of the village.

La Barben is fortunate enough to have a superb castle that is classified as a Historic Building. It is as remarkable on the inside as it is on the outside and can be visited all year round. The castle is surrounded by a French formal garden designed by Le Nôtre (who created the gardens at Versailles) and there is a nearby zoo.

13 Sénas

The center of Senas has several streets of shops. You will like the town hall square with its plane trees that offer the shade necessary to avoid being too hot on a café terrace. You might decide to have a stroll thin the streets around the town hall and discover a few of the very typical village houses.

14 Vernègues

8 Lançon de Provence

Lançon sits on a hill beneath the remains of the castle (17th century) belonging to the lords of Les Baux. The ruins are surrounded by a wall flanked with square towers. In the village you will find delightful narrow streets lined with the magnificent antique doors of 17th and 18th century town houses.

9 Aurons

Aurons is a superb village that has sat on a hilltop in the middle of peaceful countryside for eleven centuries. Its location is strategic – only a few minutes from Salon de Provence and close to the Luberon and the Alpilles. Aurons is really worth a visit.

10 Charleval

Charleval has the kind of Provençal charm that tempts you out for a walk. From the streets and alleys in the charming center to the 18th century castle, all of it is worth a visit.

The original village of Vernègues (now known as Vieux Vernègues) was wiped out on 11th June 1909 by a terrible earthquake. When you arrive in the village you will notice the ruins of Vieux Vernègues in the distance on a hill. Visit them if you will, you will find the remains of a castle, houses and a church.

15 Berre l’Etang

Excavations have shown that Etang de Berre has always been a place where communities formed. At the end of the 19th century, traditional culture (based on olives, vines, fishing and salt) collapsed and was drastically changed by industrialization. Today, the Etang is split in two - the south and the south east both of which sacrificed much to industrialization while the north and the west have maintained a more conventional character and where the land is covered by crops and woods.

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Salon de Provence | Artisan Ice-cream Maker |

Gourmand’ice, ices to melt in your mouth

ummer has arrived early in the region of La Fontaine Moussue! Welcome to Gourmand’ice, where savoring a sorbet or an ice-cream (50 or so flavors and more than 60 sundaes) on the terrace is a divine moment of indulgence. Among the latest creations are the Baba and Tiramisù sundaes that have already hooked a number of fans just as the sparkling tea and coffee cocktails have done. Backed by Hervé Gutzwiller’s skills (over 30 years experience as a pastry chef-chocolatier-ice-cream maker-confectioner), seconded by Clément, his son, and Jean-Luc, the company continues to break new ground with iced creations devised in their laboratory, upstairs.

Upstairs, is the bedroom of poet Antoine-Blaise Crousillat (it’s a listed building), a place steeped in history where you can enjoy hot food (waffles – with or without topping, gourmet options, macaroon options, double lattes, teas, coffees and a variety of chocolates). Somewhere between hot

and cold, Gourmand’ice shows off their revolutionary Ice Burger, a hot brioche filled with the ice-cream of your choice and fresh coulis. A “fast food” dessert served with apple “fries” and (strawberry froth) “ketchup”. An iced dessert to relish at leisure.

Savory and … sugar-free ices! Besides the traditional sorbets and ice-creams, Gourmand’ice also offers milk shakes, water ices and, at the weekend, smoking sundaes (made with dry ice), as well as savory ices: pesto, avocado, olive (oil), tomato and basil, and Roquefort, all vying for your attention. Another unusual feature is their sugar-free range – as individual ices on a stick, in small glasses or half-liter containers to take out.

THE

GOURMAND'ICE

The sundaes are garnished with fresh fruit

1, place Crousillat (Fontaine Moussue) - 13300 Salon de Provence – Tel.: 04 90 44 70 82 – www.gourmandice.fr Open every day from 1 pm to 8 pm (from Monday to Thursday) and from 1 pm to midnight (from Friday to Sunday). As from June, open every day from 1 pm to midnight. Eat-in or take-out. 25

Provence | History |

Nostradamus and preserves sweet answers to life’s ills Although known world-wide for his predictions, the celebrated Saint-Rémy-born physician also published a rather unusual compendium on the subject of cosmetics and preserves. It was halfway between a recipe book for beauty products and a guide to personal hygiene and everyday remedies. By Rémi Lacassin

hen Nostradamus first published “The Prophecies” in Lyon, he couldn’t possibly have imagined that, 450 years later, a donation by a rich German (Hans Georg Buddrus) would allow the Salon de Provence museum to buy the original of his Traité des Fardemens et des Confitures from a … Peruvian (Daniel Reuzo) who had fallen in love with the region. The work represented a fabulous voyage through eras and cultures, a reflection of the life of the legendary apothecary and philosopher who was born in 1503 in Saint-Rémy and who died in 1566 in Salon. And it was here, three years before the text was first published (published again in 1555), that Michel de Nostredame began writing the very first recipe book in history. He wrote it in French at a time when Latin, very much used at the time, was the official language of science. A healthful collection intended for the general public and easily accessible to all. It contained information on personal care (fardemens) at a time when nobody washed, and about plant-based medicine. The first part of the book was on the subject of beautifying and perfecting the complexion. The rest is explained by Catherine Ottonelli, ex-assistant to Jacqueline Allemand the recently retired manager of the Maison de Nostradamus, “With all the wars, epidemics, and the limited life expectancy of the time, you had to look as if you were in excellent health. This meant being pale of skin, smelling nice, having white teeth…” She then adds, “The paradox of it all is that the use of cream containing white lead eventually killed them!” Meanwhile, the use of tooth powder and hair color was widespread. It should be mentioned, however, that Nostradamus was older than his second wife (Anne Ponsard, married on 11 November 1547, the day he bought his house in Salon) and wanted to hide his first gray hairs… Another example, in order to obtain a “supreme odor”, he would mix rose water – he used this for all and sundry – with pork fat chopped finely with orris root, then he would add 12 apples, 3 quinces, 4 orange peels, half a lemon and then cooked them all slowly over charcoal. Then all he had to do was grind the mixture down!

Runny, overcooked and very spicy The preserves were intended for all alike and had preventive or healing properties. They were grouped together in the second chapter “How to make all manner of liquid jams using sugar, honey and fortified wine”. The recipes include lots of honey (less expensive than sugar imported from the Canaries), defrutum (grape juice with a very high concentration of sugar), spices, and so on. The jams were very runny, cooked for a very long time and concentrated like syrup. Common ingredients are lemons, squash, cherries, quinces, oranges, lettuce (a luxury product at the time), and candied almonds. There were also local wild plants, vegetables and fruit – all easy enough to lay hands on then. Among the more frequently used spices were cinnamon (antispasmodic, antiseptic), green ginger and cardamom (eyes, bronchial tubes, intestines) cloves (basic product for anti-plague medicine), nutmeg (against cholera, miscarriage and palpitations), pepper (aphrodisiac), and saffron (to fortify the stomach and the heart). Whether it was the recipe for “Hippocras” to treat diarrhea and help digestion or for “Pignolat en roche”, the predecessor of pine nut nougat and prescribed only as a treat for the tastebuds (it was believed at the time that anything sweet had to be good for you), Nostradamus tested all of them in his home in Salon de Provence before committing them to paper. He felt it was his duty to pass on his knowledge to others and this remained his goal his whole life long.

MUSÉE MAISON DE NOSTRADAMUS Rue Nostradamus - 13300 Salon de Provence Tel.: 04 90 56 64 31 m.nostradamus@salon-de-provence.org Open on weekdays from 9 am to noon and from 2 pm to 6 pm; open on Saturdays and Sundays from 2pm to 6 pm. 26

Mallemort | Tourism |

Culture, events and festivities – this summer looks promising! A tempting program

Friday 4th July: DesArt’iculé evening. 5th edition with dramatic art, clowns, classical music, dancing, singing, pop folk, rap, R’n’B… at the Théâtre and Espace Dany. Saturday 5th July: Free concert – rock music from the last 50 years. Saturday 5th July - Friday 1st August: “Les artistes mallemortais s’exposent”… painting exhibition at the Office de Tourisme. Mardi 8th July – Mardi 26th August: 9th year for the evening craft market every Tuesday from 7.30 pm to midnight in rue Fernand Pauriol. Pony rides, wooden toys and games, carriage rides, crafts stands, etc. Monday 14th July: Outdoor dance in place Raoul Coustet. Saturday 26th July: Fête des Moissons (bygone trades, farm animals, wheat reaping as in the olden days, hitching up to tractors and horses, baling, etc.) from 2 pm onwards at Rond-point de la Durance. Saturday 16th August: Dance (place Raoul Coustet). Saturday 16th August - Friday 29th August: Exhibition of paintings by Noëlle Trinquier, “Empreintes artistiques de Noëlle”, at the Office de Tourisme. From 26th to 29th September: St Michael’s village festival. Sunday 28th September: St Michael’s aioli.

ith an exceptional accommodation capacity given the population of the village (approximately 6500 inhabitants), in camp sites, hotels, tourist residences (Pierre&Vacances in the Pont-Royal area), and bed and breakfast establishments, Mallemort can lodge over 5300 people every night. The location is ideal, sitting at the crossroads between Marseille, Aix and Avignon, with easy access to HST stations and airports, and only a few kilometers from the Alpilles and the Luberon. This former farming village has all sorts of activities going on all summer. There are things to do at that fishing lake (and the Durance River is nearby), the tennis courts, the town swimming pool, the 18-hole and beginner 6-hole golf courses in Pont-Royal (open to all for a walk or for lunch …), nature trails, La Vallée des Loisirs with its sports grounds and water slides that everyone will appreciate… And then, there are cultural visits and tours to discover an incredibly rich heritage going right into the heart of the village. At the Office de Tourisme, you can obtain a plan that goes from the Eglise Saint-Michel to the old Pont Suspendu via the keep, the viewpoint indicator, the Saint-Pierre oratory and the EDF dam where over 200 species of birds thrive… And what can we say about the original and varied festivities (see below) other than they are part of what makes Mallemort a must-visit destination!

OFFICE DE TOURISME DE MALLEMORT

7, avenue Frères Roqueplan - 13370 Mallemort Tel.: 04 90 57 41 62. Email: contact@mallemortdeprovence.com Website: www.mallemortdeprovence.com Open from Monday to Saturday from 9 am to noon and from 2 pm to 6 mp. Open on Sundays from 9 am to noon (mid-July to mid-August).

Saint-Chamas | Saint-Chamas |

Presenting summer outings in Saint-Chamas The SaintChamas Office de Tourisme has set up a brand new project this year. Discover the region, the environment, the heritage of Saint-Chamas with“Escapades Estivales”.

he dynamic team at the l’Office de Tourisme in SaintChamas, in collaboration with the town council, is presenting “Escapades Estivales” for the very first time. This project aims to promote the region, the wildlife and country side, and the traditions of Saint-Chamas. “We have drawn up a program presenting a number of sites in and around the town,” explain the organizers of the event. This is an excellent opportunity to dis-

cover or rediscover well-known places from a new angle. “We recommend the guided tour of the Parc de la Poudrerie. It is a place steeped in history and a lot of people wanted to visit it and learn more about it.” So, for two and a half hours, you can learn as much about the site as its past, its wildlife, and its plants (visits will be on two Wednesdays per month in May, June and September and every Wednesday morning in July and August). Another guided tour of interest is the

Saint-Chamas landscaped footpath which earned a special prize last year. On the agenda is an hour and a half spent exploring the heritage resources of the town with a member of the Office de Tourisme staff (one Tuesday per month). The Marius Bernard canning plant and Domaine de Suriane will also welcome visitors. A tour of the plant followed by a tasting of Marius Bernard products will take place on the first Tuesday of the month. Domaine de

Suriane will present their wines and host a tasting session on the second Tuesday of the month. Finally, the Paul Lafran town museum will have visits on various themes. In May, the subject will be Sayssaud, his love of landscapes and his

ESCAPADES ESTIVALES

contemporaries; in June, Calissanne stone from excavations of the oppidum at Constantine; in July and August, ribbons and Arlesian costumes; in September, quilting techniques. Definitely worth a visit...

Information and (obligatory) reservations at: Office de Tourisme 17, rue du 4 septembre 13250 Saint-Chamas - Tel.: 04 90 50 90 94 tourisme-saintchamas@orange.fr

Salon de Provence | Traditions |

For the transhumant shepherd, fulfillment is out there… Every year, twenty students are trained to do this rewarding job at Le Domaine du Merle in Salon de Provence. By Rémi Lacassin

ar from the image of a rough and ready farmer, alone in his pastures, the occupation of transhumant livestock farmer has become more and more professional over the years. Of course, appreciating the outdoors and listening to the birds singing is a good start but it’s not enough. You need a calling perhaps or, rather, a revelation … At Domaine du Merle, on the outskirts of Salon de Provence in the direction of the Alpilles, is a place where transhumant shepherds are trained under the supervision of the Ministry of Agriculture and, more specifically, of SupAgro Montpellier. This complies with the wishes of the widow of a Marseille banker, who owned the property at the start of the last century. It is a place where you are taught by experts, women experts.

“You don’t become an instructor overnight. You have to be credible. Personally, I was a livestock farmer and shepherd, and a co-farmer in the Cevennes, migrating livestock to Mont Lozère and Les Menuires …” says Michelle Jallet who has been in charge of Domaine du Merle since 2002 and employed there since October 1991. Her passion was one that developed over the years.

Like most of her students, she didn’t originally come from this background. A love of animals, respect for the environment, and an interest in nature, are the common motivating factors for the twenty or so students – often men (60% of candidates), aged between 18 and 45, town or city dwellers who already have work experience – for their year of training (1760 hours of theory and practice). “We start in October so the life-cycle of the ewes is respected. There are three stages going from wintering (8 months in the lowlands) to summering (4 months in mountain pasture). The lambing period takes the students behind the scenes, working intensively with farmers in the Crau Plain for six weeks,” notes Michelle Jallet, backed by Geneviève Andreis (former student, full-time shepherd and now a teacher herself) and Aurélie (for rural worker training, canal maintenance, agricultural technology, introduction to shearing, pruning of olive and fruit trees, etc.). “In February-March, we head for woodlands and keep the herds in the hills with a dog in the Var, Ardeche, Gard, Alpilles and Luberon … Finally, in summer we go to the mountains in Savoie, the Alps or Mercantour…” Domain du Merle is one of four schools in France and is nationally and internationally recognized (this year a Belgian, an Italian and a German are enrolled). The agricultural certificate that is delivered leads to a nature-centric approach. “Being a transhumant shepherd is hard work and requires a sense of responsibility and observation but it carries great job satisfaction. You feel that what you are doing is worthwhile,” they tell us at Domaine du Merle where they maintain that fulfillment is out there .

La Routo, an initiative that is gaining ground The Maison de la Transhumance was created in 1997 and publishes documents, sets up exhibitions, creates teaching tools, nature trails, documentaries, seminars and other meetings so as to raise public awareness of transhumance, its history and its heritage. With fifty or so members, an enthusiastic manager (Patrick Fabre), and presided by a livestock farmer (René Tramier), the association is located in the first floor of Domaine du Merle. It brings together breeders, shepherds, transhumance workers, cultural and environmental professionals …“We have numerous projects in hand including one to develop a Euro-Mediterranean center for transhumance resources. In the future, we would also like to open a nature trail that has the features of the Crau Plain, and create a visitor center in a sheep barn at Domain du Merle..,” reveals Patrick Fabre, only too happy to talk about La Routo, a rather unusual long-distance footpath. It’s an idea that is gaining ground and that covers the main stages of the transhumance transfrontier route (420 km including 350 in France), from Arles to Stura valley in Italy. This is a major, symbolic project for a traditional activity that promotes food, woolen goods, traditions via an ecomuseum, permanent and touring exhibitions, various events, a local and pastoral product charter (ovine, bovine, seasonal fruit, cheeses, etc.) for restaurateurs. “We based it on existing paths with help from the Fédération Française de Randonnée and recreated the road taken by Piedmontese shepherds that came to the Crau Plain and the Camargue from the 13th century right up until the 1960s,” continues the manager, who hopes to see the entire La Routo waymarked within the next two years. Then it will be time to migrate the herds through the ages, or “take the road” as they say in Provençal and also in Occitan and Piedmontese … 28

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Salon de Provence | Restaurant |

Le Café des Arts where tradition meets authenticity

ow that the fine weather is back, Frédérique Le Penven, the chef at Café des Arts, and her new team have just reopened the terrace and it’s already a great success. She has decided to brighten up her menus with sunny chalkboard specials and fresh salad platters. These newcomers have taken their place beside the ever-popular regulars: “la poissonnière” with its mini-starter, a slice of tuna or swordfish (depending on the catch), rice and steamed vegetables and “la bouchère” also with its mini-starter, meat from the market (magret, beef skirt, flank steak), homemade fries or rice and steamed vege-

tables. New plancha preparations will also soon delight the aficionados’palates. Traditions don’t change just because there are new options and so food lovers can continue to enjoy the setprice menus as before: • Plaisir et sourire (two starters or a starter and a dessert at 14.90€), • A starter and a main course at 15.30€, • A main course and a dessert at 16.30€, and • Gourmande at 25.50€ (starter + main course + dessert + glass of wine). Let’s not forget the grilled meats and fish cooked in the large fireplace in the dining room, the freshly made fries, or the jacket potatoes with their chive sauce. There is a meal for youngsters too with a real hamburger steak, homemade mayonnaise, a dessert (lava cake or a Smarties sundae) plus a glass of something to drink for 11€.

And to round it all off, fruit is in the limelight with bowls of gariguette strawberries and old-fashioned homemade desserts designed to enchant young and old alike such as the tarte tatin made with chocolate-coated pears or peaches and berries. “Everything is a pleasure at Café

CAFÉ DES ARTS

des Arts”, adds Frédérique who recently selected a new ice-cream menu by“La Laitière”and who smilingly recommends the “café coquin” served with a small treat and the “Yapadehonte”, a selection of 7 mini-desserts with a coffee for 19€.

20 place Crousillat - 13300 Salon de Provence www.cafedesarts-restaurant.fr Café des Arts is open 7 days a week starting on 25th May for Mother’s Day. It is advisable to book in advance at 04 90 56 00 07.

“Qui a vist Paris se noun a vist Cassis, a ren vist.” (“He who has seen Paris and not Cassis has seen nothing.”) This clearly chauvinistic affirmation by Frédéric Mistral gives a fair indication of the interest of the geological phenomenon that marks the coast between Marseille and Cassis. However, due to fire risk prevention, the Parc des Calanques can be difficult to get to when the weather turns fine. There is, nonetheless, a particularly ecological means of viewing the landscape - by canoe or sea kayak. By Myriam Léon

Marseille-Cassis At Sea

omparable to the Norwegian fjords, the calanques are named from the word “calanco”, “steep” en Provençal. Carved out of the limestone over the last two million years, these cliffs stretch for over 20 km between Marseille and Cassis. Deep canyons hem the seaways as far as 4 km inland. Their incredible whiteness rises towards the blue skies, chiseling creeks with dizzying views. The wildness of the hostile rock, where only limpet-like vegetation can survive, dives into enticingly clear water. Glittering sun sparkles on the water entice you towards other treasures. Jewel of Provence and the Mediterranean, the Parc des Calanques proves difficult to reach when the fine weather arrives because access is forbidden when it is hot or windy in order to prevent fires. Though some may complain about it, this effectively protects the site. There is only one way (and a particularly ecological one at that) to get the best of the landscape – by canoe or sea kayak. This gives you an uninterrupted view from the sea and lets you berth in isolated places. This type of navigation does not really require much experience but it’s nevertheless best to avoid putting two beginners together. A team like that could lead to accidents from going round in circles. A swift initiation in the basic maneuvers will teach you how to use an oar and avoid this kind of problem. However, this kind of boat, although more adapted to fresh-water sailors, still requires all of the usual safety precautions such as wearing life jackets and not going out on days when the mistral is blowing particularly hard. It is ideal for exploring the ins and outs of this lace-like coast. A kayak or canoe will take you right into the grottoes and allow you to visit the faults in the rock in a silence likely to stir your imagination. Callelongue is a calanque that can be visited by road as it is in the 8th district of Marseille. It’s a tiny bit of the end of the earth leading to Cassis on foot as well as by boat. After just a few strokes, awestruck, you discover Sormiou. The coast slips by swiftly as you discover the islands in the Riou archipelago. Stopping from time to time, you will feel as if you’re being rocked in a hammock just resting on the surface of the water, and the trip will not exactly be a sporting event. It’s all a question of taste. Given good weather conditions, the average speed of a kayak is 6 km per hour, roughly twice that of a hiker and with less effort. The trip between Callelongue and En Vau can be done in a day, even if the more meditative tend to opt to start from Morgiou.

Snuggling into a lush rock fault and dotted with little houses, Morgiou is a small harbor that also has a family-style restaurant. If you start here, it will only take you twenty minutes or so to reach Sugiton, another calanque. Sugiton is wilder and requires a good hour’s walk to reach the altitude of 216 meters. Characterized by a rocky island called the “Torpilleur” or more poetically the “Cigne”, it is quite a busy place. While teenagers test their courage by diving from the natural diving board, the sun worshippers spread out in the creeks. Once you’ve gone round the “Tonneau”, a big rock at the foot of the cliff, you will find yourself in an area that cannot be reached by land if you are not a climber. Only the (too) numerous calanque shuttles, full to overflowing with tourists, can shatter your illusion of being an adventurer and all alone in the world. Hollows reveal water of a striking blue, the beauty of the place being enhanced by excitement tinged with apprehension at entering places where no man has gone before. Following the coast reveals surprises all the way, passages and creeks that are invisible until you are upon them. On the other hand, if you want to take advantage of the view of the Esculape circus and see the red rock of Cap Canaille, all it takes is a few strokes to take you a little further out to sea. After the “Œil de verre” calanque is the “Anse des l’enfers” then Devenson needle (just an appetizer) before going round the “Dromadaire” islet and passing the impressive Eissadon fault. The vertiginous Devenson cliffs are 250 meters high and look like giant vertical church organs. This inaccessible spot gives a fabulous view. Suddenly you feel tiny. The last stop is virtually inaccessible. The Oule calanque is sheltered from the civilized world by a long cliff. Once past the Castelvieil arch, you are liable to feel two contradictory feelings – absolute wonder and an overpowering urge to run away. En Vau is perhaps the most beautiful and certainly the best known of all the calanques. Topped by the “Doigt de Dieu” and the “Petite Aiguille” that both accentuate the majesty of the site, it cuts back into the cliff in the middle of the pines. This magnificent place draws crowds. After hours of practically solitary sailing, the urge to row backwards and away is unavoidable.

CANOE/KAYAK HIRE: Calankayak: 06 16 90 25 71 Provence Kayak Mer: 06 12 95 20 12 Raskas Kayak: 04 91 73 27 16 / 06 20 46 83 82 Yakaramer: 06 23 06 90 17 / 06 25 10 88 44 K6kayak: info@K6Yacthing.com