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COLIN MCDOWELL, VOICE OF FASHION
Copenhagen Fashion Week
MAX FACTOR LOOK OF THE DAY: VERONICA B. VALLENES
Cover Photo, By Malene Birger, by Anders von Greffelstejn
saturday. 14.08.10. SS11
MINIMARKET goes DAYTIME VOODOO with a french accent
TODAY’S SHOWS: JESPER HØVRINg, STINE GOYA, NOIR
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 2 – Editorial
Watering the Buds
Publishers DANSK Magazine Copenhagen Fashion Week Editor-in-chief Chris Pedersen Editor / Project Coordinator Rozanna Fritz Project Coordinator Jens Løkke Subeditor Magnus Jorem Beauty Editor Mikkel Hyldebrandt Executive Editor Anne Christine Persson Art Direction / Graphic Design Applied Projects / applied.dk Rune Høgsberg & Michael Mandrup Illustrations Laura Silkeberg Nielsen Project Assistant Michaela Skovgaard Sales Representative Jens Løkke Writers Elsebeth Mouritzen Eva Rhode Mikkel Hyldebrandt Moussa Mchangama Rikke Dyrholm Susanne Madsen Photographers: Anders von Greffelstejn, andersvonGreffelstejn.com Simon B. Mørch, simin.tumblr.com Sacha Maric, sachamaric.com Emile Sadria, emilesadria.com Editorial assistants Cathrine Møss Cecilie Thorsmark
“Creativity is an incredibly delicate flower and you have to be so careful with the young,” fashion expert extraordinaire Colin McDowell tells Susanne Madsen in today’s issue of DANSK Daily. For several seasons, we have had the pleasure of his company during Copenhagen Fashion Week, during which he has judged the Designers Nest Award at CPH Vision. And I couldn’t agree more. With brands like Rützou, Bruuns Bazaar and By Malene Birger, Denmark has managed to carve out a niche, especially within the European fashion industry. And while we need to keep making use of these veteran players – as DANSK Daily has this season with the sharp pen of experienced fashion writer Elsebeth Mouritzen – it’s also necessary, in this financial climate, to take care of the young talent. Fashion weeks need new talent to attract international interest, and I sincerely believe that Copenhagen has some great young designers right now. Silas Soulland, Stine Goya and David Andersen are all evolving confidently. And, if we take our eyes off the catwalk, we have brands like Libertine-Libertine, Norse Projects and Shoe the Bear, who are establishing a great following in Denmark and abroad. We need to show both sincere interest and perhaps also a bit of economic support to these younger brands. Denmark’s Ministry of Culture recently sparked an interest in fashion with grants and official acknowledgment. And that, I think, is a great way to give the younger companies a break to balance creativity and budgets, while also building up confidence in the creative educational institutions so that they can get the support they need and crave from the Danish government. This week has showed that fashion can become a vital part of the Danish mentality. A mentality we need to keep watering. Yours sincerely, Chris Pedersen
Distribution Cathrine Møss Amalie Ramsby Print OTM Avistrykkeri
Photography Anders von Greffelstejn
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Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 6 – News
Gimme Gimme More. Max Factor Product of the Day Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt Informed by the recession of recent years, mindless consumption and the I-want-it-all-now attitude are so out this season. What’s in is a sensible approach to spending money. We’ve cut back on the more, more, more, and instead we let reason guide us and easily settle for less. Except when it comes to mascara. Modern mascaras are, in fact, going to extra lengths to make your lashes longer and longer. Max Factor False Lash Effect Mascara is one of those mascaras that will reveal the full potential of your lashes, making them go on and on (and on). With the biggest brush ever seen on a mascara, this one will thicken each lash from root to tip using the patented Liquid Lash™ technology, creating stunning volume, fullness and length – just like false lashes! And if that’s not enough, you have the option of extending your lashes even more using the Max Factor Lash Extension Effect Mascara as a top-coating mascara. Used alone or with another Max Factor mascara, the formula adds incredible length, which is usually only possible through professional lash extension applications. Either way, your lashes are going to be shouting drama – albeit without the drama of false lashes or lash extensions. Max Factor False Lash Effect Mascara & Max Factor Lash Extension Effect Mascara both retail at 139 DKK.
Gaze into the crystal ball. Famous Danish jewelry brand Georg Jensen is launching its new collection SPHERE, which is inspired by the magical idea of gazing into a crystal ball. The collection embodies the curiosity of what lies ahead for our dreams, hopes and aspirations. Georg Jensen is known for its strong, long-lasting design and SPHERE is no exception. The spherical designs encircle gemstones have been carefully selected for their beauty and intriguing symbolism. To celebrate the collection, Georg Jensen has chosen to show the amazing SPHERE pictures from DANSK Magazine in their flagship store. Stop by Georg Jensen store at Amager Torv to see the collection and pictures.
Illustrating fashion. This season, we convinced Koldingbased illustrator Laura Silke Berg Nielsen to illustrate our articles. Her cut and paste aesthethics first caught our eyes in 2009, and we’re keeping on eye on this 24-year-old talent. laurasilke.carbonmade.com.
Your Last Bag. Searching for the perfect bag that will last forever? Look no further than Danish company The Last Bag, where bags are designed to last and not be flashy. pietbreinholm.com
Chris’s Pick of the Day.
The THA-1 headphones from Aiaiai combine cool aesthetics with state of the art technology. The headphones have been under development for two years, and Aiaiai has cooperated with KiBiSi on design and Tartelet records, Mannhandle, Thank You for Clapping and a selection of international DJ’s to secure that the headphones live up to the highest expectations. I want them. And to be honest I don’t really care about the sound. I’m just crazy about the design. aiaiai.dk
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 7 – News
Your Money on Monies. American designer Donna Karan and editor-in-chief of French Vogue Carine Roitfield are both fans of Danish jewelers Gerda Lynggaard and Nicolai Monies, winners of this year’s prestigious DANSK Award for accessory designer of the year. We love the black tribal necklaces that supermodel Isabeli Fontana wore on the cover French Vogue. monies.dk
The Coolest Girl in the World.
New York Magazine recently declared 2010 the year of Freja Beha, and with two recent Vogue covers and campaigns for brands like Max Mara, Tom Ford, Chanel and Valentino, this Danish model surely is a force to be reckoned with. unique.dk (Photo: Tom Ford Eyewear)
Paul Smith celebrates Stelton. Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the classic Cylinda-collection, iconic Danish design company Stelton asked British fashion designer Paul Smith to update its minimal tableware. Paul Smith for Stelton is out in the shops now. stelton.com
Dressing the youth. Since 1993 Danish fashion company Samsøe & Samsøe has been the go-to-brand for wardrobe-classics like shirts, jackets and great knits. This season they’re branching into the denim category with a collection inspired by the youth-culture of the 50s. In the real world, that means no-fuss 5-pocket jeans and slim-fitted denim jackets. samsoesamsoe.dk
Inside Copenhagen. Camilla Frank is the editor-in-chief of Danish women’s magazine Alt For Damerne. She guides us to the best breakfast places in Copenhagen. Emmerys in-store at Strandstræde. Their Danishes and freshly squeezed orange juices are great. And - miraculously - there is always a table. Granola at Værnedamsvej. Uhmmm... the key thing here is oatmeal with banana, coconut and raisins. Europa at Strøget. Their vegetarian brunch is a classic. A roll, caramel crème and yoghurt with fresh fruit. altfordamerne.dk
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 8 –
Style for Life.
For the fifth year in a row, the famous international and professional hairstyling brand ghd supports the fight against Breast Cancer with the project Style for Life. The project has been established in order to raise funds and awareness about the fight against breast cancer. Hairdressing salons all over the country are, through a number of different activities, raising money for the foundation. Besides the project, ghd has collected a group of cultural celebrities, with a number of different relevant creative competencies, to increase the focus on breast cancer. These include publisher Malene Malling, actress Sophie Lassen-Kahlke, hair stylist Søren Hedegaard, Nutrition expert
The Future of E-Shopping.
GiGANTic Scoop. For SS2011, Gant has scooped up international designer Michael Bastian to add some punch to the collection. “I see my version of the GANT guy as the younger brother to the Michael Bastian guy. He’s tailored, a bit sporty and a little more athletic,” Michael Bastian says about the collaboration. gant.com
StyleTrek is a social commerce site featuring the strongest emerging fashion designers worldwide. The brainchild of e-commerce maverick Cecilia Pagkalinawan, StyleTrek’s crowdsourcing site has been live since spring 2010 and will launch its first 50 fledgling designers from around the globe through its online shop in September. The company not only provides new ways for designers to reach customers online, but also provides social media and e-commerce tools for effective marketing. For fashion lovers, StyleTrek provides a network in which to find emerging designers. The consumer-centric business model will allow StyleTrek customers to give feedback at every stage of the design and production process. For example, customers will be able to suggest which designers are
Christian Bitz and stylist Anja Camilla Alajdi. They will all help put the spotlight on prevention and research in the field of breast cancer. “Each month, 350 Danish women are diagnosed with breast cancer. This statistic means that every ninth of our end-users has been diagnosed with the disease. That’s why we decided to put more effort into collecting money to research and support the battle against breast cancer,” says Karina Kiil, Marketing and PR manager for ghd. Through selling the special edition Pink Styler product ghd has over the last five years donated 29 million Danish kroner to the fight against breast cancer.
featured, items sold, the fabrics the designers will use, and which of the designs should go into production. StyleTrek intends to reach a global audience. When someone in New York visits the homepage, they may see winter coats, while someone in Brazil will be shown bikinis. StyleTrek has received more than 50 designer submissions from Denmark alone and more than 200 worldwide. styleTrek.com
It’s what’s inside that counts. All dressed in black, the surprisingly light and slim Galaxy S is a true beauty bound to become a classic! But the gorgeous looks aren’t all this phone has got going for it: The Galaxy S rocks on the inside as well. With a 1GHz processor running Android, it is one of the quickest smartphones on the market, stealing the hearts of the ever-growing number of Android lovers. The Galaxy S also gives you the power to shoot full HD videos and photos with its 5 megapixel camera, so work on those poses and snap away. samsung.dk
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BLOODY HAIRY. For the Jesper Høvring show’s amazing hair look, key hairstylist from Cha Cha Cha Søren Pjedsted has made a dream journey through modern Japanese simplicity over contemporary European style. On why he chose to work with Jesper Høvring, Pjedsted explains, “ I think he’s just an amazing designer. If I had should choose just one, why not choose the best within this genre? It’s not every day you get to create such a spectacular look – it’s not the queens birthday every day, right?” Søren Pjedsted is a grand old daddy in the hair business in Denmark. He opened his first salon in 1977, and today he has 17 salons around the country. Twice in a row he has received the Academy Award of hair dressing, namely the worldwide competition Global Salon Business Award. See the look from the Jesper Høvring show at copenhagenfashionweek.com
BAM WAM NICCI MADAME. This season, Copenhagen Fashion Week has had the honor of welcoming famous hair stylists Neil Moodie from WAM and Nicci Welch. Neil Moodie is one of the biggest British hair stylists, havingworked with everyone from photographers Paulo Roversi, Mario Testino and Juergen Teller, to celebrities Drew Barrymore, Natalie Portman, Scarlett Johannsen and Demi Moore, and designers Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, Gucci, and Vivienne Westwood. Moodie’s experimentation with various textures, and his trademark style of mixing contemporary, graphic elements with classic fundamentals has kept him in high demand. Nicci Welch got famous in Denmark when she was the make-up and hair expert at the old Danish music program Boogie. Today, Nicci is the director of United Makeup Academy. The United Makeup Academy has been established in order to give young Danish hopefuls a chance of an international education in Denmark and to learn the techniques of some of the world leaders in this field. Nicci is British but is now based in Copenhagen working as a hair and makeup artist. Her clients span some of the world’s most famous faces, including Paris Hilton and Robbie Williams. See this amazing teamwork’s out come at the Karen by Simonsen and NOIR shows.
Hollywood Fashion. The famous fashion-stylist Kirsten Prosser, known from the TV-series Danish Hollywood Wives, launches her own brand KDK Kirsten DK - a collection created for the style-conscious woman. Exclusive Hollywood jeweler Judy Klimek, the owner of Left Turn Jewelry - a popular store among American celebs - has designed the accessories to go with the collection. Meet them and see the collection at CIFF, Booth # C2-006.
Catwalking for charity. Most shops in the city centre will today donate 1% of today’s revenue to a cause chosen by the patroness of The World’s Greatest Catwalk, Helena Christensen, namely the Chernobyl Children’s Project International (CCPI). The organization works to restore hope to the children and families who are still suffering severely from the nuclear accident at the Chernobyl Plant in Ukraine in 1986. Helena on why she chose to support the CCPI: “The disaster in Chernobyl is unfathomably devastating in so many ways that it’s difficult to grasp the effect it has had. Most people seem to have forgotten the tragedy because so many years have passed, but having personally met some of the children who still suffer, well, it’s a reality to make your heart shatter.” The World’s Greatest Catwalk takes place on the main pedestrian street today at 15:00 hrs and is open for all.
Golden Couple. For 25 years, Danish design duo Gitte Dyrberg and Henning Kern have been decorating the wrists of women worldwide with the famous Dyrberg/ Kern jewelry. The collection is now sold in over 2,000 shops worldwide, making the company one of the most successful Danish jewelers. dyrbergkern.com
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Voices of Fashion: Colin McDowell.
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 12 – News
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“It’s terribly easy to sketch a convincing but dumb little frock. That’s not what designer design is about. A machine could do that. And that’s what makes them dumb. They have no voice. To me, that’s not enough. Balenciaga wanted people to look at his work and say ‘I want the experience of wearing that dress’. A good dress does not start with the sketch. It starts with what I call divine discontent. Picasso must have thought ‘I’m sick of Cézanne. He’s great, but there’s something new for the next generation. I know what it is’. There aren’t many people like that. Of course, this is at the highest level of creativity. Madame Grès and Vionnet never touched a pencil. They draped fabric, on the mannequin. With drawing, you tend to forget about the back and the two sides. It’s a question of how things are created. That’s what stops them from being dumb.”
Celebrating stupidity. Diesel & Wonderland celebrate the ignorance of fashion with a blast tonight at TAP 2. In true fashion spirit the entrance is free and there’s even free drinks for a while. Thomas Barfod, Kasper Bjørke and Floria Meindl will heat up the floors.
Words Susanne Madsen
When I last interviewed you, you said no one is moving fashion forward right now. How do you feel about that statement now? “I stand by it. Traditional Western fashion has reached the dinosaur stage. In life you have to be nimble. Can Gucci or Dolce & Gabbana be nimble? They’re tankers. And a tank can’t do a quick turn; it’s too big for that. Fashion has simply become too big. We only need twenty good designers who can then be ripped off by the high street. There’s very little creativity in fashion right now. It’s all about the bottom line. Fashion is still working on an outmoded template, selling fresh, young, and expensive Trixie clothes to rich, elegant women on the wrong side of thirty.”
All good things come to an end - even Copenhagen Fashion Week SS11. But while waiting for Copenhagen Fashion Week AW11, February 2-6, 2011, you can relive your favorite runway shows by downloading the Copenhagen Fashion Week app, which features this season’s fresh new looks. The app can be downloaded at Android Market, iTunes App Store or at copenhagenfashionweek.com/app
Shop online at Diesel.com
You’ve mentioned recently that you’re tired of ‘dumb little frocks’. What is clever fashion, then?
Photo Anders von Greffelstejn If everyone in fashion spent an hour in the company of unimpeachable fashion writer Colin McDowell, our industry would be a much more informed and cultured place. To say that McDowell is knowledgeable is an understatement. He is not only a walking fashion encyclopaedia, complete with astute and witty commentary, but he has an unrivalled grasp on fashion history, arts, and culture. For the last fifteen years McDowell has covered fashion for The Sunday Times Style and continues to publish books on fashion. He is the founder and chairman of Fashion Fringe, London’s brilliant talent enterprise, and he has also taken up blogging – but to call it a blog would be too crude: these are online pieces. This week, McDowell is in Copenhagen (“I love it – it has a great buzz”, he says) to judge the Designers’ Nest Award. We sat down with him at Nimb for a talk about the current state of fashion.
Copenhagen Fashion Week 365.
Diesel Flagship Store at Købmagergade 19, Copenhagen
The third and final of a series of interviews this week with key personas in the fashion industry
Believe EVE. If you still haven’t noticed, the DANSK Daily crew has been driving around in a cool, wonderful, fresh greyish Audi EVE car. We’ve been enjoying the new icy fresh EVE ciders between shows in both Mango and Passion Fruit flavors.
How do you approach mentoring and critiquing young designers? “Creativity is an incredibly delicate flower and you have to be so careful with the young. I make sure I’m never judgemental with them. I’ll be horrible about someone like Karl Lagerfeld because he’s a tough old thing. And it’s got me banned from shows at times, I might add.” How do you feel about the autumn/ winter 10 wave of Rational Fashion? “I think it’s bourgeois. I’m attracted by extremes. To quote T.S. Eliot: ‘Human kind cannot bear too much reality’. I love what Marc Jacobs is doing more and more. I like John Galliano, of course. I loved what Lee did – it was something more than fashion. And Vivienne, the Earth Mother of British fashion.” Susanne Madsen is the Fashion Features Director at DANSK
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Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 14 – Feature
Fashioning the Man The Danish man is finally stepping out of his comfort zone and a new generation of Scandinavian menswear designers is eager to dress him. Words Moussa Mchangama Illustration Laura-Silke Berg Nielsen The Danish man has got new alternatives when it comes to style. And while edgy, high-fashion alternatives are still available, the majority of men seem to have made their choice. The new man is about masculinity, beards and lumberjacks. “After Hedi Slimanes seven years of black dominance in the industry, a counter-reaction was necessary. This is the one. Everyone can relate to it, that’s what makes it so popular” Frederik Andersen, fashion director at Euroman, states. “Starting out with NN07 providing a broader and more economic alternative to Swedish Our Legacy, the rest of the new brands had to be creative or different. Libertine Libertine has the slim jeans, the checks and styles that will last a long time. Norse Projects has impeccable style, and that can take you far. Soulland shows creativity and versatility with references to different cultures, while maintaining its own look. It’s refreshing.”
Counting Frost Birgens and Wood Wood in as well, they all offer different possibilities. Still, a number of similarities are obvious: they are newly-established brands. They have a new take on classic menswear design. And the hipsters love them. Silas Adler, founder and owner of menswear-brand-of-the-moment Soulland, named his SS11 collection “The Suit” after a poem by Leonard Cohen. And the collection itself does indeed feature a suit, a first from the Soulland camp. Adler explains: “At Soulland we try to create clothes that are highly wearable. At the same time, we want to challenge the consumers, so we seek to combine those two dogmas.” On the Cohen inspiration and making his first suit, the young designer states that the poem was a perfect fit for Soulland. “Cohen’s poetry is very visual. Working with the poem, I found that it wasn’t only about a suit, but also about the contrasts and the powers it contains. Likewise, it’s a contrast
for a brand as ours to make a suit, because people expect something younger from us.”
the fitted way. Major difference. Actually, nobody says baggy. We call it relaxed now.
And while the suit is one of the most iconic styles in the traditional alpha wardrobe, other classic pieces are also being brought back to life. Forget the black and the sharp attitude; this tendency features some, yes, colors! It’s a relaxed look, with chinos, checkered shirts and hats – if you have the right head, mind you.
2) Details are important. Different buttons, playing with length and pockets. Because they have functions, forget DIY attachments. You probably aren’t creative enough anyway.
Classic isn’t the same as oldfashioned, though. A return to some sort of old ideal of masculinity may be the case, but everything is very up-to-date. Some might say that it’s inspired by traditional American style. Others could call it minimalist or economic- details need functions, and there are no extravagant extras. Whatever you want to call it, there is no doubt that this look is hip at the moment, and to get it you have to be aware of a minimum of three things: 1) The right fit. Nobody looks baggy anymore. You may look baggy in
Quality. Good quality. Not like the clothes you (don’t!) buy in supermarkets. It might be a good idea to point out that there’s some sort of Americanism going on here. Talking about the future for menswear Silas Adler states that something really interesting is going on in the American fashion industry. “Designers like Thom Browne, Patrick Ervell and Adam Kimmel are really on to something. They are giving new life to classic menswear”. Well, so are the Danes apparently. Bravo.
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Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 18 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –
La Vie en Rose.
Words Elsebeth Mouritzen A well-dressed fashion flock, coming in from the rainstorm that swept the city late last night, gathered under the dimly lit chandeliers at Nimb to witness a new direction for NOIR. Ever the innovator, Peter Ingwersen surprised with a new take on femininity in both color scheme and silhouette for the brand. Though inspired by Victoriana and New Look, Ingwersen managed to present a thoroughly modern collection fit for a strong woman not afraid to show off her body shape – and more – as waist and hips were the focus of attention in beautifully cut clothes. A tulip-shaped dress with added volume at the hips and a voluminous pleated skirt with a bare back lace top were among the styles
to define the change, but Ingwersen also stayed true to the NOIR DNA with sharply tailored suiting, starch white shirts and the famous leather leggings and jackets. This new softness becomes NOIR. It was truly a pleasure to witness how nudes, roses, beiges and greys in silk and lace can look light and modern at the same time. And that there is still room for black and blue for contrast.
Illum Østergade 52 1 0 0 1 K Ø b e n h av n K magasIn Kgs. nytorv 13 1 0 9 5 K Ø b e n h av n K M a g a s i n • K g s . Ly n g b y ly n g b y h o v e d g a d e 4 3 2 8 0 0 K g s . ly n g b y
Dyrbergkern annonce_265x370.indd 1
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 20 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –
A Fashionista Hausfrau’s Take on Homer’s Odyssey
Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt After a video visual conveying the message of the show’s nautical theme, Ivana Helsinki literally overflowed the runway with models in cool, maritime fashions. The many models told the story of a sailor’s wife waiting and longing for her sailor to come back home. The first part of the show set up the archetypical notions of a sailor’s wife: pretty dresses with lots of nautical stripes, ropes and anchor prints and gold-embossed buttons. We followed her as she passed the days of her life - perhaps taking a stroll along the harbor or even a glamorous St. Tropez boardwalk. The look was kept in signature navy reds, blues and whites, and sported lovely details like the occasional ruffled shoulder or belted waist. And not to forget a printed lobster which could only have been a tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli. As the story of the sailor’s wife progressed, the day slowly came to an end, which meant a change in atmosphere and a change in the
wife’s mood. Out came the darker eveningwear, which was sexier and lacier now that the longing soon would come to an end. Gone were the symbols of a sailor’s wife – the anchors and ropes – to welcome the seductress ready to be united with her sailor. And then it was bed time and light dresses that resembled night gowns made a brief appearance on the runway – light peach and powdered pinks were the colors. The show ended with the sailor’s wife waking up after a night in the arms and throes of her beloved sailor, her voyager, her Odysseus. Now came a new dawn in white pureness, reintroducing many of the nautical symbols. Ready for a new day of waiting, longing, and sailor yearning…
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 22 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –
Northern Lights. Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt To bring unity to a show featuring 29 design graduates from five different Scandinavian design schools is an impossible task. So naturally the showmanship at Designers Nest has been toned down to a minimum white to give as much attention to each designers three entrances as possible. Although each design graduate had extremely different visions of design, the general trend was deconstruction of shapes giving a large portion of the styles a strong figurative look. After the show, three designers were awarded the Designer’s Nest prize. Tine Winther Rysgaard from The Danish Design School and Anja Merete Larsen from Kolding School of Design were the two runners up, recognized for their edgy, artistic and international design. The winner was Satu Maaranen from Aalto University School of Art and Design Helsinki, and she was praised for her evident Nordic style with pine trees almost popping out of the prints, which also does well in an international setting. The award was presented to the winners by none other than Her Royal Highness Crown Princess Mary, who also attended the show as the patron of Designers Nest.
Happy Go Lucky. Words Eva Obelitz Rode You can almost hear the essence of the brand when pronouncing the name Moods of Norway. The Norwegian designers create clothing for both male and female, and are not afraid to be humoristic when using the full color scale in their designs. The menswear consisted of patterned suits with either long classic trousers or shorts to make it fresh and fly. Topping off the outfits, some of the guys wore small hats to complement their suits while their shoelaces were colored bright blue or green. For the women, the collection featured feminine summer dresses that filled the runway – long slim jersey dresses in light grey or rose, alongside short ruffled silk dresses in black and white or multicolor. It was hard for the audience not to smile when colorful patterned outfits in yellow, hot pink and fresh green strolled down the catwalk. One of the female models even seemed to be on the brink of bursting into laughter herself– which brought out the screaming yellow in her dress that much more.
Diesel Flagship Store at KĂ¸bmagergade 19, Copenhagen
Shop online at Diesel.com
WITHOUT THE DRAMA FALSE LASH EFFECT – BIG BRUSH, BIG LASHES As the name suggests, False Lash Effect Mascara from Max Factor mimics the effect of false lashes by enabling you to double the size of your own lashes rather than going through the trouble of gluing on false ones. This is only possible due to our biggest brush ever. A BIG brush ensures that the brush holds more mascara and distributes it evenly from the roots to the tips of your lashes rather than merely dumping it at the base. This – in combination with our Liquid Lash™ formula – gives a natural volume that you probably didn’t think your own lashes were capable of.
OKAY, BUT WHICH ONE IS FOR ME?
That’s up to your own preferences. But why not consider Lash Extension Effect for elegant length during the day and then False lash Effect directly on top for a flirty evening look? This way, you can get the best out of them both...
Long and full eyelashes is what we all want, right? For decades, we women have gone through the drama of faking both length and volume by either gluing on false lashes or having temporary extensions applied to the corners of the eyelids to give a fuller fan of lashes. How about a duo of mascaras that actually does away with all that drama and gives you either a stunning false lash-like volume or a dramatic length that you didn’t think your own lashes were capable of?
BACKSTAGE TIP FROM MINA: First Use False Lash Effect on the upper lashes to give them a lot of volume, then use Lash Extension Effect on the lower lashes and to detail the upper corner lashes – this way you get the best of both to give a lot of drama to of all your lashes.
Mina Ingerslev, Max Factor Make-up artist
LASH EXTENSION EFFECT – LONG BRUSH, LONG LASHES Accentuating the corner lashes is what really gives impact to your eyes. That’s why professional make-up artists use a combination of mascara and lash extensions in the corners, where the real lashes are shorter and harder to reach. This is exactly what Lash Extension Effect can do naturally as it contains real lash extensions made from nylon fibres – those are evenly distributed by our longest brush ever with more than 450 fine bristles that treat each lash individually to add length without clumping.
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 26 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –
Having a Ball.
Words Elsebeth Mouritzen No wonder he is a favorite among royals, brides and celebrities alike. Jesper Høvring cuts a dress like noone else, unsurprising given that he’s a professional tailor besides being a designer. Having enjoyed great success for more than seven years, he made his runway debut with a salon show at Nimb disguised as a morning tea party. Obviously too early for dinner and dance, but everyone soaked up the glamour instantly anyway. Most of his dresses command a fit body, as he works mostly with sculpted bodices and narrow-fitting skirts, often with a mermaid train, but he also showed some softer silhouettes with goddess-style drapery, fuller skirts and loose laced tops.
He balances the quest for the ultimate ballgown using hundreds of silk georgette roses on a full skirt with the wish for understated glamour with just the right amount of lace and beads – and manages to still look modern. He threw in a few short numbers for cocktail, and one sexy grey silk jersey dress in particular oozed bestseller. The models, looking divine with 60s socialite makeup and large chignons, were dripping in gold and diamonds from Pandora in a subtle way, complementing the elegance of it all. This is the stuff that dreams are made of. We were having a ball!
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 28 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –
Simon Says? Words Moussa Mchangama Ever since the show schedule was published, the talk of the town has been what 2009’s Stylist of the Year, Simon Rasmussen could be up to, presenting his own show during CFW. Friday morning’s gathering at the old Carlsberg brewery presented an installation made out of candlelights, empty bottles, spray painted dicks and other interesting objects. Opening the show, two dancers poured milk over themselves, just like in the advertising video that was sent out before the show. Next appeared the models, clad in different kinds of garments all sewn together out of teddy bears and a mixture of old fabrics and vintage clothes. Electronic appliances accessorized the collection. Not exactly craftsmanship, nor very provocative. The show left the audience wondering where this project will take Rasmussen.
Rio de Romantic. Words Rikke Dyrholm The involvement of Radisson Blus and DFDS Minicruises in the dual show by the Norwegian Fashion Institute could not be put into question. Both companies opened the show with presentations of their offerings, which were repeated again in between the two designers’ Copenhagen debuts. Nevertheless, the show kicked off with a colorful Rio de Janeiro style celebration 6’ 4” barbie dolls strolled down the runway in an upbeat summer pace to the tunes of Quarterflash’s Take another Picture, Take another Picture of Me’, ready to conquer South America. Multicolored flowermix silkdresses, sea-inspired prints, and a cobber pastel hue dominated the runway. Epitomizing designer Tina Hermansen’s upbeat vision, the collection opened with a flower dress and ended with a sequin queen. As she entered the stage in the finale with her arms in the air, there was also no question that Hermansen, like the clothes presented, was in no way attention-shy. After a commercial break, the models of the more subdued Undorn entered the stage with endearing references to Nordic romantism. Classically shaped skirts, dresses, high-waisted pants, and feminine shirts were all held in classic dusty hues. The romantic Nordic ambience was underscored by slim braided belts, underplayed flowermixes and goldembossed black sandals.
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 29 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –
on Top of the World
Words Elsebeth Mouritzen
When the Chaka Khan song ‘I’m Every Woman’ blasted mid-show, Malene Birger’s title choice ‘The Woman’ made perfect sense. The disco hit underscored the collection’s mood, and when all the models appeared in the grand finale - all dressed alike in slim pant suits and a striped t-shirt, Stetsons and a glass of wine instead of the predictable evening dress - the message was clear: it’s about me, I’m wearing the pants. And literally, Birger heads the fastest growing fashion success in Denmark. The collection marked a change in Malene Birger’s style into something a little more easy and casual, but it still delivered the same panache that has characterized her whole career. Birger’s independent woman is a globetrotter, and by the looks of it, her travels next season will take her all around the Mediterranean, as the clothes were influenced equally by dusty African deserts and lush Southern European seasides.
The safari theme that we have seen a lot this week was also big in Malene Birger’s SS11 universe, carried out in urban styles with lots of shirts and jackets, coats and pants in khakis, browns and greens, a little oversize to give it dash, teamed with studded belts, ladylike high heels and big bags. More formal, she sent out a lot of good linen and light wool suits with different types of pants, from drop-crotch baggy to the new wide 70s-inspired tailored ones. Her dresses were easy and simple, loosely draped or balloonshaped in crisp cottons, soft jerseys or washed linens, decorated with tribal shell-jewelry or belts. But Chaka Khan didn’t sing in vain there were lots of sequins on short dresses and shirts to celebrate in. Salute, Malene!
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 30 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –
(Do) Do that Voodoo.
Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt Minimarket’s runway this season was covered in bright yellow with a black and white wooden figure in the center, like an abstract patch of Africa. The collection’s overall inspiration was occult phenomena like voodoo and superstition, but as the models entered the runway, the look was closer to a contemporary brand of chic. The music underlined this, mixing between African tribal beats and tunes you could imagine hearing in a hip Parisian seventies club. From this equation of tribal elements and Parisian flair, minimarket’s elegance jumped right out at you. Elegantly wearable styles featured straight shapes with accentuated shoulders, pretty dresses with balloon shapes, loose jackets and flowing pants – more Parisian savoir-faire than African savannah.
The detailing played a crucial part in giving the soft femininity some contrast with a touch of rawness: Leather belts with cut-off details, chunky jewelry, wood wedge heels, men’s shoes with patches left out and miniscule oval sunglasses. The colors alternated between the bright and subdued, with navy blues and black along with apricot and a very popping cayenne red. A sophisticated and ultra feminine collection, whose occult features provide a strong premonition that a lot of women will be wearing minimarket next summer.
Photo Jimmy Nelson
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Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 32 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –
Words Moussa Mchangama At this season’s Wackerhaus show, expectations were high. Having won the Max Factor New Talent Award last season, Trine Wackerhausen had something to live up to. She did not disappoint. The ninja star projected on the runway’s backdrop was echoed in the sharp details of high-waisted trousers, pencil skirts and blazers. Peach, mint-green, grey and black were the main colors, adding yet another designer to the considerable number of fashion dictators who predict that these very colors will define next year’s spring.
The pieces also included a number of novelties for Wackerhaus, with lace appearing on cute dresses and new fabrics enriching the collection. The look still maintained a distinctly Wackerhaus aura, keeping with the label’s details and pleated trousers that have come to be collection staples. That, of course, is a wise choice, if Wackerhaus wants to continue on in the hopes of becoming Copenhagen’s Next Young Fashion Darling.
ap ann. APPLIED.DK
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 34 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –
Delicious Pastels. Words Eva Obelitz Rode Another Norwegian talent has claimed her right to show at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Fresh womenswear designer Veronica B. Vallenes made her Copenhagen runway debut in front of prominent personas on the front row, including Danish Fashion Institute’s CEO Eva Kruse and Brian Mikkelsen, Denmark’s Minister of Economic and Business Affairs. As soft music filled the hall, the first few models stepped onto the runway to show Vallenes’s feminine creations. A high-waisted bikini in a dusty rose opened the show, followed by white airy shirts, draped jumpsuits, and a long peach-colored silk skirt. Such pieces, simple and beautiful, were accompanied by voluminous accessories like large golden bangles and black heavy earrings. Some of the models even wore jewelry as headpieces – including a turban - giving this Scandinavian design a hint of Eastern mystique. Pastel colors dominated the scene with dusty rose, soft grey, white, and peach as the main hues. Two of the strongest items, a short cape and a heavily draped coat were, shown in a black and white striped pattern that lit up the color scale and created a perfect balance for this spring/ summer collection. Veronica B. Vallenes succeeded in creating the perfect scene for a summer day – light delicious pastels and lots of skin. It’s just too bad we have to wait for 2011.
The Comeback Kid. Words Elsebeth Mouritzen Birgitte Herskind has years of experience designing under her own name and working behind a brand. Lately, she has lent her commercial professionalism to S’nob and after that success tried her hand on something sharp and exclusive with Noblesse. Now the two brands have been merged into S’nob de Noblesse to get the best of both in one collection. And she did it again! In a no-nonsense, almost nonfashion collection, she steered clear of many of the obvious trends and presented a line of clothes that proved feminine, easy to wear, and stripped of superfluous details. Soft minimalism is the best way to describe the well-made separates. Instead – and probably to ensure a popular price-tag – the collection’s luxury was found in the materials and effects, such as leather, satin, jersey, sequins and prints. Herskind had a strong hand in selecting the collection’s palette, working around mainly ochre, butterscotch, tan, taupe, rose, ivory and tobacco, accented with warm metallics like gold and copper. Noblesse oblige means nobility obliges – and so does a good show like this.
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 35 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –
Words Rikke Dyrholm Ivan Grundahl took a desert hike and confimed once again that he is in a league of his own. This fashion veteran sure knows how to flatter and re-think simple cotton materials and make the most of it. As white-clad, white-faced nomads entered the stage in a monotone pace, wearing turban-inspired folded scarfs and unlaced boots, the audience was drawn into Grundahl’s clean and crisp design universe. Black-clad models dressed in avantgarde Arabian garb followed suit and set a contrasted ambience of Nordic cool meets desert heat. The collection contained a number of Ivan Grundahl trademarks in long draped dresses, raw edgy details, heavy cotton-coats, and floorlength skirts - topped off with
French Couture a la Antoinette. A spectacular lime-green sneaked into the black and white universe and cemented the collection’s visual expression. Ivan Grundahl’s grasp of his Nordic roots and natural talent for combining dailywear and couture underplaying both – gave the show both a fluency and a distinctly Grundahl sharpness. Danish fashion’s Grand Old Man sure can do with cotton what Jesus did with water!
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 36 – Shows – Photo Sacha Maric –
Goya’s House of Fairytales.
Words Rozanna Fritz Once again, Stine Goya proved why she is one of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s most popular designers. Thursday evening, she showed her spring/summer collection in the beautiful surroundings of Hardorff House at Kongens Nytorv. Oliver Gustav’s installations presented Japanese antiques, flowers and taxidermy, giving the show the unique and relaxed feel of an old house that has not been touched for years. The collection was dominated by Goya’s signature prints and refined details, and kicked off with a palette of frail colors mixed with prints, interrupted by blue, brown and black later in the show. Feminine silhouettes were infused with optimism and a touch of romance, while long dresses that completed the atmosphere were interrupted by the slim pieces. Loose pants and shorts with oversize silk tops – and showpiece flower wreaths on the models’ heads - gave the show a refreshing touch.
Goya’s collaboration with jewelry designer Sophie Bille Brahe was once again incorporated in the look. Beetles made out of gold and diamonds were placed on the models’ hands – in combination with bird’s nest headpieces – showed a unique and powerful way of bringing the collection and installation together as a coherent whole. All in all a wearable, strong and powerful collection. Goya is not afraid to stand out at a time when most designers go safe. As such, she lets us stay in the fairytale house that we never want to leave.
AmAgertorv 10 · 1160 KøbenhAvn K · telefon 33 14 19 41 · www.illumsbolighus.dK mAndAg – fredAg 10 – 19 · lørdAg 10 – 18 · søndAg 12 – 17
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 38 – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses Thursday, August 12, 2010 – Props + Photos Sarah Goldschadt Words Magnus Jorem –
Models Fanny and Mathilde are prime examples of fine Danish youth.
Designer Mr. O knows all about the big O, its endless possibilities, spectabulous durations and brilliant variations!
Store owners Bobby and Ritz are marvelous.
Fierce fashion model Tatiana will cut you. Oh yes she will.
Hairdressers Signe and Simon love design.
Model/ musician Mattias makes you look fat, and enjoys it very much.
Fashion journalist and denizen of the blogosphere Marlen is quite the fashion rebel.
Mathilde is both a model and a store assistant.
David, another denizen of the blogosphere, is also known as the Dark Ringmaster of the Infernal Ogre Dungeon, and loves lollipops and candy-colored Art Rebels props.
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 39 – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses Thursday, August 12, 2010 – Photo Simon B. Mørch Words Magnus Jorem –
mads nørgaard at bakken.
Designer Marianne Eriksen with Denmark’s first trend expert Lennart Råholt and his colleague Finn Bay Jørgensen.
Editor-in-chief of Cover Magazine Sarah cries her heart out at her friends’ choice of magazine... It’s unfair!
Caroline and Mie from Femmes Regionales get goofy, having worked so hard this week they start giggling uncontrollably at the mere mention of the word “sløjfegris.”
Don’t do sugar it drives you nuts! Nuts!
Is that an Adler Fedora you’re wearing? Sweet.
Lennart Råholt, the king of trend expertise in Europe - from Eyjafjallajökull to Istanbul.
Mads Nørgaard megafans.
Trend expert Finn Bay Jørgensen has one word for this season: stripes.
A Russel Brand doppelganger enjoys his guldbajer at Bakken.
Main man Mads Nørgaard is one cool cat.
Sassie B gazes off into the distance. Like could Pernille R and Julie M puh-lease stop talking about their gluten-free diets?
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 40 – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses Friday, August 13, 2010 – Words Magnus Jorem Photo Simon B. Mørch –
Simon Rasmussen Show.
Furious blogger chicks shocked by the explosion of milk, porno and glitter at the Rasmussen show. Fashion genius or fashion suicide?
Saucy celebrity-jeweler Kia Utzon-Frank was escorted by flamboyant fashion designer Nicholas Nybro Jensen, who deigned to attend Copenhagen Fashion Week after months of socializing exclusively with botoxed Hollywood personalities.
Medina manager Rasmus was out looking for new styles for his favorite muse.
“Medina, Madonna, potAYto, potAHto.” - stylist Andree Hoxfeldt.
Silly caption-writer Magnus recently returned from China, where he participated in a bonkers Chinese reality show and didn’t do too well.
Fashion Week pixie Maria Schlüter shocked the fashion establishment with her green highlights.
Blogger emergency! OMG our millions of fans won’t get our fashion updates what with our camera like smashed and what not! Wimper! Who’s gonna push avant-garde fashion to the next level now???
The crowd awaited Simon Rasmussen’s debut show with an anticipation rivaled only by the premiere of Igor Stravinsky’s The Rite of Spring at the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées in Paris in 1913.
Fun luvin’ architecture student Olivia couldn’t wait to see Henrik Bülow’s dramatic catwalk entrance. Yum.
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Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 42 – V.I.P. - Very Important Princesses Friday August 13, 2010 – Words Magnus Jorem Photo Simon B. Mørch –
dansk magazine party.
Sticking out your tongue is so Nickelback ca 2004 but we’re cheesy enough to put these fashionista hipsters in our mag anyway.
At DANSK Daily, we never imagined that we’d see three fashion divas of this rank depicted in one photo. Lotte of the journalism avant-garde, Cath of bejeweled high-society aristocracy, and Alpha-Dawg of questionable-yet-neverthelessmega-fashionable Amigo amazingness.
The better half of avant-garde architecture amazingness Even B Olsentwinz, Per Danger Popsicles, expresses his contentment and joy at being placed next to a foxy blond dick magnet.
Just one of those saucy couples that CFW seems to spawn.
Stack up your donuts, pack out your pies, it’s fashion week and we are starvin’!
Eccentric costume designer Larsemil of theatrical notoriety flashes his ink, which the camera does no justice to. Meet him yourself and check out his biceps’ fashion realness.
Is this the 2010 Køge Warhammer Convention? HAHA no just kidding of course we’re here for fashion week. Chucks.
This lucky dude got a hug from the Mother-Superior of a Trillion Fashion Planets Cath Danneskiold-Danneskiold-Samsøe-Samsøe.
Money, success, fame, glamour. Put them together and Ian and Uffe have a bit of everything.
It has been scientifically proven that blonds make it less likely that you’ll reach for you remote control
In DANSK we trust.
marc by marc jacobs celebrates the opening of two new marc by marc jacobs stores in 책rhus on august 18, 2010 and in stockholm on september 22, 2010 join us at the copenhagen store for a fashion week peek at the a/w 2010 collection xoxo,
marc by marc jacobs chr ix gade 3-5 // 1111 copenhagen // denmark volden 9 // 8000 책rhus // denmark sm책landsgatan 10 //111 46 stockholm // sweden
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 44 – Look of the Day Veronica B. Vallenes, City Hall – Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt Photo Anders von Greffelstejn –
The Look This look is all about eyes. In fact, the entire eye area is covered in a luscious shade of golden brown all the way up to the brow. Not a smoky eye in sight, but rather one eye unit not bothering with conventional rules like globe lines or proper highlighting techniques. Adding to the ‘off-ness’ of this nonchalant and couldn’t-care-less look, the warm eye shadow has been mixed with cool purple shades (normally another makeup faux-pas) giving the look another twist. It is powdery, elegant, mysterious – and quite the eye-opener! Makeup by Max Factor Key Products Max Factor Colour Duo Eye Shadow No. 440 Sunset Mood. Max Factor Flawless Perfection Blush no. 225 Mulberry. Max Factor Earth Spirits Eye Shadow No. 105 Terra Firma.
take a deep look
Look of the day by max factor
Dansk Daily SS11 Saturday 14.08.10 – PG. 46 – Schedule
Copenhagen Fashion Festival. SATURDAY 15.00-16.00 The World´s Greatest Catwalk 1,6 km. catwalk from Rådhuspladsen to Kgs. Nytorv open to public.
14.00-22.00 Street Stuff in Hyskenstræde Hyskenstræde, Copenhagen K Copenhagen’s charming Hyskenstræde is warming up fashion week with a barbecue, beers and balloons. Get down with the cool kids and drop by the shops for special Copenhagen Fashion Week offers. 23.00-05.00 Stupid Party Tap 2, Carlsberg, NY CARLSBERGVEJ, ENTRANCE BY DANSEHALLERNE It certainly shouldn’t be hard to find suitable fashion industry guests for Diesel and Wonderland’s brilliant titled party, A Fashion Party for the Stupid People. Free entrance.
09.30-10.30 Hangover Brunch Heineken & Terminal-2 garden, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV Open to visitors
11.00 American Retro Gallery Bumble & Bumble Showscene, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg By invitation only
14.00-22.00 Hyskenstræde presents pure happy hours. BBQ// DRINKS//MUSIC. Hyskenstræde, Copenhagen K Open to public 15.00-16.00 World’s Greatest Catwalk Outdoor pink catwalk at one mile, Helena Christensen and a donation to Chernobyl Children’s Project International. The pedestrian street from Rådhuspladsen to Kgs. Nytorv, Copenhagen K Open to public
15.00 World’s Greatest Catwalk Strøget from Rådhuspladsen to Kgs. Nytorv Open to public 16.00 Designskolen Kolding (BA) Kødboderne 66, Copenhagen V By invitation only 17.00 Nom de Plume by A. Naselli Teatermuseet, Hofteateret, Christiansborg Ridebane 18, Copenhagen K By invitation only
20.30-04.00 Party with DOLCE & GABANNA UNDERWEAR Line Up: Traplite (UK/DK), Flip (UK/DK) and Sugarbois Scandic Hotel Front, Sankt Annæ Plads 21, Copenhagen K By invitation only 22.00-04.00 COVER/WOOD WOOD party Address: TBC By invitation only 24.00-04.00 The Fabulous Final After Party Presented by Gallery Int. Fashion Fair, Unique Models and Vs Magazine. Jump into a world of shows, red velvet and fashionista intensity. Niels Hemmingsensgade 10, Copenhagen K By invitation only 22.00 – 04.00 Official Copenhagen Fashion Week Closing Party TS Bar, Studiestræde 14, Copenhagen K By invitation only
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2010-8 Dansk Daily Halvsides annonce.indd 1
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The Official Copenhagen Fashion Week Newspaper