(No) Stitch in the Sustainable Side

While some people continue to ask whether it’s still ok to wear wool, others are questioning the long transport routes of high-grade fibres such as cashmere. Sustainability in the knitwear sector is a particularly complex topic, especially as animal welfare is an additional factor alongside traditional issues of social and environmental compatibility. style in progress asked experts for their opinions. Text: Stefanie Buchacher, Martina Müllner-Seybold, Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Manufacturers

Essential for the Warm Me brand: work- ing with Nepalese producers to push for improvements. Theresa Steinbach- er, the Brand Director of Warm Me, travels to Nepal three times a year to initiate improvements on site. “Our am- bitions, such as plastic-free packaging, are often miles away from the pressing problems of our Nepalese partners. In Nepal, people are still hoping for meas- ures that secure their livelihoods. Our issues often seem like luxury problems to them.”

“THE PROBLEM IS LUXURY AT CHEAP PRICES” Animal rights activists and environmentalists are targeting fur suppliers and cashmere knitwear specialists. Rightly so?

Theresa Steinbacher, Brand Director at Warm-Me: No. If cashmere is produced properly, it is certainly one of the most sustainable yarns out there. The keeping of cashmere goats is limited to certain regions, which is why they cannot be factory farmed. In addition, the yarn can usually be obtained without the animals suffering any harm. The only reason the situation has changed is the increasing demand for cashmere, coupled with decreasing revenues. If you want luxury for cheap, something inevitably goes amiss. I find it rather hypocritical that fast fashion chains are pointing fingers at cashmere and discrediting the product. After all, the production conditions they criticise are the result of offering a cashmere sweater for 39 Euros. I am confident in saying that you can source “good” cashmere as long as you are willing to pay a fair price for it. For us, sustainability means working directly with manufacturers to ensure all processes in the chain run smoothly. I’m on site up to three times a year and also in daily contact with our partners. A second, very essential point: no item should be surplus. The main problem in our industry is the excessive production of goods, both in the luxury and fast fashion segments.

Malo is humble. The brand prefers to provide durable products rather than “green” statements. The brand is to be led to new strength by a new owner and a manage- ment team headed by Luigino Belloni.

“LONGEVITY IS SUSTAINABILITY” What does Malo do for the environment?

Luigino Belloni, Sales Director at Malo: “We at Malo are doers. We don’t talk about many things in public. This also applies to the topic of sustainability. We’re working very hard on reducing our footprint. We are, for example, in the process of installing solar panels on the roof of our production facility near Florence and optimising many processes to minimise the waste of resources. I, however, strongly believe that consumers deserve honesty: certain processes within the knitwear industry are simply not possible without chemicals. Malo stands for brilliant, long-lasting colours. These colours cannot be created with exclusively natural ingredients. A step towards the sustainability of cashmere is the preservation of the fibre in its natural colour, from the almond variety to tones of grey and white. The next winter collections will feature natural, beautiful pieces made of fibres that aren’t dyed.”

SHORT DISTANCES What does sustainability mean to you personally?

Anja Grabherr-Petter, Creative Director of Phil Petter: “For me, sustainability means manufacturing in the region, i.e. predominantly in Austria, where the working conditions and wages are fair. But it also means focusing on excellent quality. Only then is a product truly long-lived and sustainable. That’s why we exclusively process yarns manufactured in Central Europe and collaborate with reputable partners who source the merino wool from Italy. I believe knitting a sweater in Austria using yarns that have been shipped in from China is an inherent contradiction. In addition, our merino wool has been awarded the RWS Responsible Wool Standard.”

Merino wool has come under criticism because of the mulesing procedure.

“Mulesing-free is a subject very close to our hearts. Unfortunately, this kind of wool is more expensive and not as readily available in some colours. This situation needs to improve. Otherwise the use would not be sustainable for us.”

Phil Petter still produces in Austria. “We know every raw material supplier personally and are in constant dialogue,” says Anja Grabherr-Petter.

“Buttertea does not perceive itself as a fashion brand, but stands for a sustainable, athletic style that customers can enjoy for as long as possible,” says Hans-Bernd Cartsburg about his brand. The business is named after the typical Mongolian butter tea.

“YOU CAN WEAR CASHMERE FOR 30 YEARS AND MORE” Why are two stays at the Buttertea Cashmere Spa included in every Buttertea cashmere product?

Hans-Bernd Cartsburg, owner of Buttertea: “Few people know about the existence of garments that last 30 years or longer – as long as they are cared for properly. There are favourite items that are durable and timeless; they become more beautiful with age and inspire desire in many generations to come. That is true sustainability! Such products are very important to Buttertea, which is why we have chosen to focus on cashmere. Where do the goats live? Which influences determine the quality of the fibres? Which spinning mill processes the fibres into the best yarns? Where is knitting still celebrated as a craft? The Buttertea brand is our answer to all these questions. By the way, the name derives from the national drink of Mongolia. But it doesn’t stop with the sale of the product itself. That’s why we also support our customers in the care of their high-quality pieces – either in the Buttertea Spa, where every item is lovingly reprocessed by professionals, or with our own ecological shampoo, which, thanks to its ingredients, also prevents moths from feasting on cashmere. The two first stays at the spa are included in the price.”

“CHEAP AND SURPLUS PRODUCTION ARE THE CURSE OF OUR TIME” What are the most important factors for making knitwear truly sustainable? Is it the comparatively easy process of recycling?

Antonia Zander, founder of Antonia Zander: Unfortunately, it isn’t “easy” to recycle knitwear. If you strive to achieve high quality, working with recycled yarn creates difficulties. Excellent quality is always about fineness and fibre length; factors which are no longer guaranteed in recycled materials. Moreover, there is no proof of origin. In the case of animal fibres, for example, you don’t know which farm the sheep or goats come from. In the case of plant materials, you don’t know whether they have been treated with pesticides or grown in monocultures… Nevertheless, recycling is an important development and the vertically integrated chains in particular should allow their customers to return clothing. This raises awareness that we are dealing with raw materials that cannot be produced without CO2 emissions. In my opinion, true sustainability can only be achieved when clothing is manufactured conscientiously. This always requires a transparent provenance that guarantees the respectful treatment of nature and animals, as well as excellent craftsmanship that ensures long-term durability and wearability. Sweaters for 19.90, which fail to trigger any emotion in the buyer, are thrown into the bin after a season. Cheap and surplus production are the curse of our time.

New items at least twice a year, red price tags on “old” pieces, and massive discounts… Can true sustainability ever be achieved within the current retail structure?

Retailers react with panic to the online business model and have lost sight of individuals who don’t merely want to buy a sweater, but also a feeling! When I was allowed to accompany my mother to a luxury store for the first time, she was welcomed like a queen. She was greeted by name and presented with a champagne glass (so was 12-year-old me). They had already laid aside the Armani costume which they knew was exactly her style and size. Back then, nobody waited for the sales to start! It was considered poor form to demand this ser

Antonia Zander and her eponymous collection both rely on two pillars: eclectic style and highest, sustainable quality. In an interview with style in progress, the designers finds very clear words for politicians and the retail trade in general.

vice at a 70 percent discount! The Armani costume is, by the way, still relevant today – no less than 20 years later. That is true sustainability! If retailers would stop pouncing on every trend that results in identical product ranges and leads to a lack of individual purchasing decisions, then they wouldn’t have to grudgingly reduce prices just because the rival next door has already knocked 70 percent off a pair of the same boots by Off White… There are so many (mostly smaller) labels worth exploring. They have had sustainability engrained in their DNA for a long time without shouting it from the rooftops. Buyers should pay attention to that. Choose uniqueness instead of run-of-the-mill products!

An increasing number of customers is clamouring for change. Young customers who care for the environment consider it almost obscene to buy something new. But consumption refusal surely cannot be the solution, at least if one enjoys fashion. What’s your recipe?

The answer is to buy the right shirt for 99 Euros instead of ten for 9.99 Euros. Buy the one shirt that has been manufactured transparently and responsibly. Enjoy it for a long time! I believe refusal is great! Politicians and retailers are ruthless and pay no attention to the needs of citizens and customers respectively. Glyphosate is just one example! How can we continue to allow such a toxic product to be sprayed on our fields? It’s the same in the textile industry, if not worse. Chemicals and manufacturing processes that cause fatal diseases and severe environmental pollution are still in use. Those responsible tolerate it out of pure greed, all around the globe. We consumers are the ones who have to bring about change. We can no longer remain silent!

“WE CARE FOR THE WELFARE OF ANIMALS” How do you ensure that a cashmere sweater is manufactured sustainably?

Joanna Kapitza and Corinne Samson, founders of Another Brand: “When we launched Another Brand in 2017, we agreed that we only wanted to use materials that were manufactured under fair conditions. Cashmere is obtained from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats; whereby mechanical shearing often causes injuries to the animals. Our sweaters and accessories are manufactured in Inner Mongolia. We only use cashmere which is combed out by hand during the natural change of the animals’ fur. The collection pieces are crafted on hand knitting machines, but not in piecework. Our wordings and details are embroidered by hand. In this respect, we collaborate with an Italian importer, who guarantees a painless extraction of wool and fair production conditions by visiting the sites in question several times a year.”

Another Brand has always stood for fair cashmere. This gives the label, which was launched in 2017, a start- ing advantage over players who have yet to make the switch.

The label only knits per order in Italy and Austria. This allows Knitted Love to ensure that the value of its unique knitwear is retained over time. Owner Orsola Bertini Curri checks her raw material sources thoroughly and uses recycled cashmere yarns.

“CERTIFICATES ARE IMPORTANT” How can knitwear be sustainable?

Orsola Bertini Curri, founder of Knitted Love: “Knitted Love is a slow fashion project featuring hand-knitted fashion pieces and accessories. The label exclusively uses certified ‘Made in Italy’ yarns, especially as animal welfare is such an important aspect. The merino wool, for example, is 100 percent mulesing-free, organic, and dyed with as few chemicals as possible. The cashmere we use is recycled. I firmly believe that the quality of the yarns, their origin, and their ‘green’ certificates play an important role in the selection and sourcing process. Apart from that, the yarns are processed by knitters in Italy and Austria. The knitters are paid fairly and there is no overproduction because we knit to order.”

“THE SOLUTION IS ECO-CASHMERE” Majestic Filatures is committed to responsible luxury. What exactly does that mean?

Christophe Bosc, Export Manager: “To begin with, I would like to point out that sustainability has played a major role at Majestic Filatures ever since it was founded in 1989. We focus on the people and our planet, a philosophy that we have continually perfected over the years. This season, we have launched a particularly sustainable line with a very telling name: Eco-Cashmere. The raw materials for the range are sourced in the US. The vintage sweaters are subsequently sorted, cut, and processed in special workshops in Italy. The best merino wool is added to the recycled yarns. The special feature of our Eco-Cashmere collection is its high quality. Just like the original cashmere, the recycled version also boasts a soft feel and structure. Moreover, it is highly durable. These are very strong arguments that also convinced Cindy Bruna. The French model is the face of our Eco-Cashmere line.”

Majestic Filatures’ Eco-Cashmere sweaters are made of recycled cashmere in Italy. The company relies on 30 years of experience in sustainability.