The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie

The style of the Belgian store is minimalist and classy.

Coccodrillo Chaussures/Antwerp This store has been a place of pilgrimage for shoe addicts for many years. Since its relocation to new premises, Coccodrillo Chaussures is in an even better position to live up to its claim of offering discreet luxury. Text: Ina Köhler. Photos: Coccodrillo Chaussures

THE DISCRETE CHARM OF THE BOURGEOISIE

Antwerp, the city that houses the world-renowned Fashion Department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, has always been of significant importance to the fashion industry. This is where Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, and Martin Margiela started their careers. Antwerp’s heritage is not only reflected in the city’s fashion museum, but also in its resident retailers. In addition to the usual international luxury brands, the city centre hosts many individual boutiques that stock their local heroes. This rings especially true in the case of Coccodrillo, a footwear store founded in 1983 by Geert Bruloot and Eddy Michiels. Their store is well-know far beyond the city limits of Antwerp and is perceived as the first port of call for hip shoe design. Right from the start, it has not only stocked exclusive French and Italian labels, but also an exquisite selection of footwear created by local designers. The creations of a certain - then still widely unknown - Martin Margiela are but one example. The product range remains a “Who’s Who” of the international luxury footwear world, including Prada, Saint Laurent, Chloé, and Balenciaga, as well as Raf Simons, A.F. Vandevorst, Church’s, and Gianvito Rossi. In spring 2017, the relocation of the tradition-steeped store ushered in a new era.

FILIGREE BRUTALISM In “Arenbergstraat”, in close vicinity of the original premises in “Schuttershofstraat”, one can now find a two-floor shoe temple with 250 square metres. While the outward appearance seems discreet and unobtrusive, the interior creates an exquisite stage for luxury footwear. The architecture and furniture was created by Glenn Sestig exclusively for Coccodrillo. The Ghent-based studio has been working for renowned Belgian retailers such as Verso and Renaissance for many years. It draws inspiration from the impressive “Brutalism” architecture of the 1970s - clear lines combined with spectacular walls and ceilings made of exposed concrete. Contrasts are set by filigree metal goods carriers, transparency, and round upholstered furniture in warm colours. The interior seems museum-like and minimalist. Individual pairs are illuminated by spots like exhibits. The store can be converted easily for events. The ground floor is dedicated to women’s shoes. Once one has ascended the spacious natural stone staircase, one finds a fine selection of men’s shoes by the likes of Church’s and Carvil, as well as by the young Antwerp-based label WeberHodelFeder. It swiftly becomes clear that this store is not focused on sales for sales’ sake, but celebrates its great passion for the world of shoes. Coccodrillo has always made service its priority - a shoe repair shop in which you can have your favourite models restored, is just as self-evident as regular workshops hosted by carefully selected brands. Even today, the close relationship between the store and the Antwerp Fashion Department is still tangible. Every year, Coccodrillo, sponsors a young talent award for the most creative shoe model of the senior year.

Coccodrillo Chaussures - A New Volume

Arenbergstraat 2, 2000 Antwerp/Belgium www.coccodrillo.com Opening: 1983 / March 2017 Owners: Geert Bruloot, Eddy Michiels Employees: 10 Sales area: 250 sqm Brands for women: A.F.Vandevorst, Balenciaga, Church’s, Chloé, Comme des Garçons/Play, Dries van Noten, Gianvito Rossi, Miu Miu, Prada, Prada Linea Rossa, Raf Simons, Saint Laurent, Simone Rocha, Tabitha Simmos, Olivier Theyskens, Sofie D’Hoore, WeberHodelFeder Brands for men: Brioni, Carvil, Church’s, Comme des Garçons/Play, Lanvin, Lathbridge, Gianvito Rossi, Maison Martin Margiela, Max Verre, Officine Creative, Prada, Prada Linea Rossa, Raf Simons, Sofie D’Hoore, Walter Van Beirendonck, WeberHodelFeder

Many of the designers stocked by Elkel are not available anywhere else in New York and the US as a whole.

Elkel/New York If one believes that an inventor has the best ideas when annoyed by a problem that affects him or her personally, then Kelvin Goncalves is definitely a store inventor. Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Elkel EXPRESSIVE MENSWEAR

Kelvin Goncalves had already abandoned the idea of studying fashion. However, he soon realised that it was incredibly difficult to find labels such as Dusty of Finland and Julian Zigerli of Switzerland in the US. On the spur of the moment, he decided to launch an online shop for menswear brands alongside his day job at a film festival. It soon became apparent that Elkel had solved the problems of many people around the globe. “I have a loyal following in Australia. That was unexpected”, Goncalves laughs.

FROM AN ONLINE SHOP TO A STORE WITH A DOUBLE LIFE The retail experiment quickly turned into a full-time job and Elkel decided to utilise a pop-up shop as a marketing vehicle. The five days of operating outside the vastness of the Internet were incredibly successful. The Brazilian living in New York decided to give it another go. In the days before Christmas 2015, Elkel finally moved into the Public Factory, a concept store project in the chic Soho Hotel consisting of many other pop-up shops. The plan was to remain there for three months, but it turned into one and a half years. However, Goncalves didn’t draw inspiration for his “real” store from New York itself, but from Paris and London. After all, he had a very small store in mind. His decision to open a tiny shop on the Lower East Side had one great - and invisible - advantage. The store has a large cellar, which isn’t a mere warehouse for online orders. Goncalves has set up his own photo studio there too. “You can never produce too much content”, he argues. He