Arma Magazine

Page 27

The leather Guide L e f t: Mar l on Brand o in “ T he w i l d one” B el ow : “Buf fal o Bi ll” C ody. It i s s ai d that he re pre s e nted the spir it and traditi on of the Ame r i can We st .

s ource: the l e athe r b ook

Buf fa lo Bi l l and Annie O a k le y ; C a l amit y Jane, C harles L indb erg , Marlon Brando in “ The w i ld one”; Peter Fond a and D ennis Hopp er in “E asy R ider´; Jim Mor r is on and Ig g y Pop in t heir le at her p ants, a l l of t hem w re a k ing emot iona l havo c among t heir fans and in a more s ob er vein, t he bl ack overco ats of t he G er man mi lit ar y in World War II, t he y have a l l lef t t heir marks. Toget her w it h j e ans and T-shir ts t he le at her j acket has manage d to est ablish its elf as one of t he c u lt items in t he way p e ople dress. None of t he var ious sy nt het ic mater i a ls of t he l atter ha lf of t he t went iet h centur y has manage d to usur p le at her’s prominent pl ace. The role of le at her has g radu a l ly shif te d f rom a prote c t ive to s e duc t ive one, hig h ly s ophist ic ate d t anning te chn iques enable t he manufac tur ing of t he s of test mater i a l. In t his tot a l f usion of b o dy and clot hing , le at her ne ver held a more prominent role in fashion. Nowad ays t his chamele on-li ke mater i a l, ha lf prote c t ive and ha lf de corous, is st i l l a b ast ion against unifor mit y and st and ardizat ion of app e arances.

L e f t: the cobbl e r and hi s tool s Top: Tanne r s at w or k at a Spani sh tanne r y, 1985

COPY RIGHT: ANNE- LAURE QUILLERIET - THE LEATHER BOOK


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