14 Flying Bomb Area Projects
Creag na h-Eighe
Sharkskin Project The shark-shaped boulder, or torpedo-shaped boulder, depending on how you squint at it, has a desperate sloper traverse from right to left to finish at the nose. Cold conditions essential. The crinkly flat-faced side of it also has a short sit start project up the nose.
A crag in the sun all evening! Described in the SMC Highland Outcrops Guide, it lies on the right hand side of the glen just before reaching the houses at Invergeldie and the path up Ben Chonzie. Park at a cattle grid and walk direct to the lowest crag. To the left of the lower crag is a small flat wall lying above a rocky ramp. The wall is slightly over vertical and has several good independent lines, but sloping landings. Mats required unless you are good at bouncing. The following are located on the left hand section of the wall, described right to left:
Sharkskin Project
Eagleye V3 (6a) K Howett 03 A thin vertical crack leading to a good small ledge. A tiny flake above the left side of the ledge finishes on good holds. Eagle’s Flight V3 (5c) K Howett 03 The wall to the left of the thin crack to gain the good ledge. Turbulence V3 (5c) K Howett 03 The slight groove at the left side of the wall, just left of the above line. Up to the bulge and pull over to a horribly rounded finish.
Creag na h’ Arairidh Bloc The crags under this translate from the Gaelic as ‘Rock of the Sheiling’. The routes tumble down into a messy scree cluster of boulders. At the bottom is the giant Shieling Bloc. It has a steep front cave face a little hemmed in but two worthy problems and a project can be found here. The back cave also has a line or two to be done. NN 736 271.
Lower Lednock Crag Lever Roof Project Accessible but very hard. This is the dark low horizontal roof underneath Lower Lednock Crag just as you leave the woods and enter Glen Lednock proper. Lower Lednock crag is on the left as the road opens out to country just past the Deil’s Cauldron car-park. Park in a layby under the crag and walk up in 2 minutes. The roof is obvious and has unhelpfully angled holds maybe leading to the left prow. NN 761 240
Lever Roof Project
Approach: 500m after the Invergeldie gate, take a left turn down to the river to park carefully over the bridge. Walk back along the riverside, contouring round to the crags and scree. Glass Sheiling Project The left side of the leaning cave has big undercuts, pull on here and crank up to RH crimp then throw left for the lip to mantle onto slab. Awkard boulder gets in the way. Sheiling Right 6a The right side of the leaning cave wall has a ramp feature. Start as low as you can above the prop boulder to mantle the lip. A little cramped.
Sheiling Bloc Glen Lednock Bloc Sport