Essential Fontainebleau > Trois Pignons > Gorge aux Chats 27
GORGE AUX CHÂTS BLOC NOTES >>> ‘The gorge of the chestnuts’ (not cats) has a secluded and pleasant feel, and is close to the Musardière campsite. Situated on a high bluff above the Milly plain, it has a fine outlook from the summit rocks. The name of the area refers to the ‘chataignes’ or spiky chestnuts you will see everywhere in autumn. Of more relevance to the climber is the select number of classic problems, including the famous grooved wall of Rubis sur l’Ongle which caught the world’s attention briefly when it was climbed in 1991 and is one of the most sought-after problems in the forest. The Sentier Bleu 16 is a good reference-marker trail and it winds uphill from the valley path through the boulders here and is a pleasant walk in itself to Canche aux Merciers and back. As this area is above private housing, please respect privacy – park out of sight by the white gate and try not to be noisy. ACCESS >>> From the D409 Fontainebleau-Milly road, about 2 kilometres east of Milly and just east of the Coquibus auberge, take the Grandes Vallées B-road south – this has a large signpost for Noisy and the Musardière campsite amongst other attractions. This junction lies on a bend, so slow down and watch out for oncoming traffic. After 1km and a couple of bends, an open sandy layby area beside a fenced-off house is where you park just past a white gate on the left. Follow the Chemin de la Gorge aux Chats into the forest for 200m until the first boulders appear on the left beside a fence. The main area is higher up the hill, follow the blue markers of the SB16 from the main path. The main area is quick drying as it lies on a ridge. CIRCUITS >>> The u blue circuit (D no. 1) is a round of 31 problems, nowhere too difficult, but varied. Best are 24 & 27. The u red circuit (TD no. 2) is a classic little circuit of 31 tough problems, with some good variant problems such as the classic Travaux Forcés. Also good are red 14, 17, 18,19, 23, 28 and the classic 6a of Red 31 known as Grêve des Nains. TEST PIECES >>> r A. Travaux Forcés r B. Arachnée r C. Les Mains Pleines r D. Grêve des Nains r E. S’Appelle au Logis r F. Neige d’Automne r G. Le Pare Dessus r H. Rubis Sur l ’Ongles
6b 6b 6c+ 7a 7a 7a 7a+ 7b+
r Backwoods traversing
Red 23 bis, traverse into the ochre groove to a hard twist to the high jug. Traverse the juggy roof from right to left, follow the arrows all the way. SS square roof via crack, gain slopey ledges and mantle out left. R is 7a+. SS the cave ramp (no jugs over lip) to gain the shield wall of red 31. SS in cave, gain arête, move left to pockets over plinth to slopey top. SS red 2 and finish up slopey right arête. Cave SS to right is Magneton 7c+. Low roof right of red 3. Travel left to mantle onto slab, or finish up arête. Absolute classic groove, very polished finger holds at start. r Travaux Forcés