Essential Fontainebleau > Trois Pignons > 95.2
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95.2 BLOC NOTES >>> 95.2 is the height of the hill upon which these fast-drying boulders stand. This is probably the first area you will visit if staying at the Musardière campsite, as it is only twenty minutes walk through the luxurious forest houses of Croix St. Jerome. The hill has a number of excellent circuits and some classic test pieces, some of the 7a problems are still world-class despite their age. The beautiful central outlook from the summit over the Trois Pignons makes this a popular spot and it can be busy at weekends. Please adhere to the fenced-off conservation zones, as the sandy hill is very prone to erosion. ACCESS >>> For the Croix St. Jerome forest car-park, turn off the Grandes Vallées road 200m south of the campsite and continue for 1km over the roundabout (with a cross in the centre) to a forest track to the parking. An 800m walk east along the Chemin de la Vallée Close leads to open sands under a long, ridged hill with the double-cross monument on the left. Head up the hill on the right (from the sands) via a heathery path to the top of the hill, which leads you to the central Ectoplasme area of 95.2 from where a low ridge extends west. The summit of the hill is further uphill on the east at a sandy viewpoint. CIRCUITS >>> The u yellow circuit (PD+ no. 4) is a fun circuit of 54 problems, starting just off the sandy plain on the NE flank. The u orange circuit (D- no. 5) is a wandering circuit of 40 problems, starting on the far west of the ridge. The u blue circuit (D no. 1) is a classic circuit of 38 clean problems starting on the southern flank of the hill. Nos. 19 (a slab) and 34 (the wall Ectoplasme) are representative of the quality of the circuit. The u red circuit TD- no. 2 is another classic of 47 problems starting just off the sandy plain on the north of the hill – nos. 15, 45 and 47 are typical of the technique required. The u white circuit (ED- no. 3) – black numbers on the topo – is a superb circuit of 37 puzzlers starting on the south flank, with 12 variant problems. TEST PIECES >>> r A. Duel dans la Lune r B. Mur de la Fosse aux Ours r C. Retour aux Sources r D. Danses avec les Loups r E. Miss KGB r F. Le Bloc à Bertrand r G. Pierre Precieuse r H. Sans Dessus Dessous r I. Ange Naïf r The Orange Circuit
6c 7a 7a 7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 7b+ 7c
SS cave to slopey ledges & pocket to top. Rude Boy goes right at 7a. Fine technical wall left of red 37, strong fingers on the ‘sugarcube’! SS the attractive overhanging blunt prow from an orange cave. Smear up the slabby arête right of red 37. The central slopey wall left of big pockets, crimpy to start and polished. Cracked sandpit wall up to slopers, back right. Direct is Jête Michaud. Hanging groove, dynamically or static (Le Yaniro). No arête. Duel… but travel left to use arête and slopers to gain top. The holes right of white 1. Direct 7c jump, or crimp right at 7a+. r Blue 18