Essential Fontainebleau > Bloc Notes & Safety
Bloc Notes & Safety þ
Whilst the circuits are all classic examples of technique and fairly consistent within their grade, the test piece problems in this guide are chosen to represent a variety of classic bouldering skills . . . often all at once. The guide is a subjective selection chosen to test all your skills, from butch roofs to fingery slabs to highball mantles. You may also find a certain sequence suits you, or that some problems are a little ‘morpho’ (dependent on your body size). You may even find an entirely new technique to solve the problem. Just have fun and don’t view this guide as prescriptive, we are all different!
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Take note of your anticipated landings, descents and jump-offs. Tree roots and embedded rocks can be a real issue, so place mats carefully. ‘Spotting’ is a crucial skill to develop and give confidence to your friends and help minimise injury. Protect head and back on low roof problems; on higher problems, stand back and prepare to push the falling climber in a safe direction away from trees or boulders. Climbing is always your own responsibility, so take care.
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Some problems require specific strengths, or, in the case of traverses; good stamina. Other problems require good friction conditions or finger-strength. The sandstone at Fontainebleau can provide some very condition-dependent ‘slopers’, or fierce ‘matchstick’ crimps, making it impossible to climb some problems in the heat, so get up early or return in cool conditions (early morning can be the magic time). Other problems require poise and balance; insisting on a combination of technique, footwork, and composure to complete the problem.
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Other problems will have ‘secrets’ where body position and good technique are as crucial as brute strength and will often serve you better. Some problems can only be completed dynamically. This is a speciality of Fontainebleau and great fun, but often very specific and technical, so watch your landings and aim to ‘dead-point’ the throw or lunge.
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þ Check your descent!
þ Spotting is key!
þ Come prepared!
For the higher, committing problems good mental composure, confidence and experience may be required before these problems can be attempted. Plenty of mats may give you confidence, but do not rely on them. If you are on a trip, consider the fact that you can always move on to a safer problem nearby, rather than spend your trip on crutches or worse. þ Take care and stay safe!
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