The Stone Country Guide to Craigmore
Craigmore Ambience: craggy old rock heads in mossy forest Rock:
dimpled basalt slopers and crimps
Season:
long dry spell, high pressure in autumn
Gear:
large mat, all brushes, mushroom basket
Grades:
mainly short solos on crag, testpieces 6a to 7b
GR:
NS 528 798
Approach: From Glasgow take the train to Milngavie and walk or bike the West Highland Way to the crag after 5k and two lochs to the B821 road. If driving, take the A809 out of Glasgow through Bearsden into open country to the Carbeth Inn. 200m after this take a right turn onto the B821 link road to Strathblane. Drive past the hut community for 1km and past two bends to open fields (loch on right). Park carefully by the field wall. The crag is north of the road in a small wood under a wooded ridge. Walk back up the road (watch out for traffic) and hop a hidden stile onto the tree-lined ridge. Walk up to 20m before the first pine tree and descend to the right down a polished scramble. Andy Gallagher on the Wizard SS
Bloc Notes: North-east facing, it is best in a dry spell in spring or autumn. Avoid the midge season and don’t go if it’s damp as the mossy old forest retains the moisture. The best of the bouldering can be completed as a Fontainebleau-like circuit, providing a good work-out on varying styles of problem. The Southern section is predominantly bouldering on the main crag buttresses, while the Northern section gives dispersed boulders and walls all the way to the end. The rock is a dimpled basalt which chalks up to attractive slopers and small crimps. Finger-locks seem to be the key to many problems, as well as good technique with the feet. There are stacks of easy solos and highball problems, but many need dedicated brushing before ascents. The harder problems are generally the cleanest. Most of the higher routes are traditionally top-roped as many routes require heavy cleaning before ground-up ascents and gear is often unreliable. Bouldering grades are Font grades – route grades are British traditional.
Key
A classic problem, enlightening.
A nails problem, good but maybe a little morpho.
Vegetated, needs cleaned or leave for spiders..
A fun problem.
Highball, or bad landing, watch your step.
2
Cammy Bell on a lycra ascent of Wide Eyed Crack