14 THE ANVIL
Map p. 3
‘The Anvil’ is the biggest boulder in Scotland! It hides in remote conifer woods and is only visible from Carrick Castle across Loch Goil. It is one hour easy walk from Lochgoilhead, quicker with bikes. Park in the village and walk along the residential road along the shore for a mile to a path leading up through the forest onto the main forestry road. Follow this south for what seems ages, round a dipping bend and burn and up again. As the road descends after another 2km to a flatter section, and directly opposite Carrick Castle, look out for an orange marker on the left. The giant block lies 20m uphill through the bushes. Suffers from seepage but dries out in summer. Best take a good map and seek out grid reference NS 206 949. There is plenty of bouldering potential up the hill behind the Anvil block, but the ‘Musical Block’ - the dark leaning wall left of the big roof - has two good problems from Mike Lee: Whiskers on Kittens Font 7a (the blunt arête on right side of the steep wall) and Raindrops on Roses Font 7a+ (just right of the small boulder, pull on at two side pulls and jump for LH hold. Top out direct). The routes are the butch progeny of Mike Tweedley, Dave Redpath, Dave MacLeod and Mal Smith. Sport Routes R-L 1. Way Out West F6c The right arête to ledge, then rock hard left to surmount final bulge. 2. Nu Mettle F7b Shallow right-trending groove to join Way Out West. Sloping holds. 3. Hammertime F7b+ Main diagonal right on edges and pockets from first bolt of Black Out. 4. Black Out F8b Malcolm Smith's testpiece straight up from Hammertime. 5. Crossfire F7c+ Diagonal up Hammertime left through Spitfire, left along to Anvilfire LO. 6. Spitfire F8a+ The red wall is fingery then dynamic with big moves to top quartz. 7. Anvilfire F7c+ The left arête of the front face onto the hanging slab at top. 8. Friendly Fire F7a Spitfire Up Anvilfire to first bolt, then left to slab and final juggy groove. 9. The Atlantic Strikes Back 15m F7c+ The steep groove onto ledge and ramp above right to Friendly Fire LO. 10. Cowal Crusaders F6c Alt. start to Friendly Fire. Ramp on the left and gain the ledge of original. 11. The Smiddy 15m F8b+ The wall right of Shadowlands. At crack crux right to a jump finish. 12. Shadowlands 20m F7c Classic cave arête via the long crack. Cave start to ledge then crack. 13. Fire Power F8b Right side of the Anvil roof, starting right of the short arête. 13. Blood Fire F8a+ Up the corner to a line of flat holds into Heavy Metal. 14. Heavy Metal F7b Gain Fire Power at mid-height by step off the opposite boulder. Pre-clip! 15. Body Blow F8b+ Top half of the roof. Step off boulder and power up the headwall! Friendly Fire 16. Metalcore F8c+ Body Swerve start to follow the right-trending crack all the way to the apex of roof. 17. Body Swerve 8c The far left-hand roof. Bouldery, fingery desperation to easier groove of Amateur Hacker. 18. Amateur Hacker 6c Climb round the prop boulder onto a shelf to slanting groove above.