explains ‘women weren’t allowed in at the time’: indeed, the American Bar, like a lot of bars, and most pubs of the time, were men-only. When women came to the Savoy, they sat outside the bar and drinks were brought out to them. Joe sometimes served in the Savoy’s sumptuous ballroom, which hosted historical balls, such as the one following the crowning of Elizabeth II. The ballroom witnessed Prince Charles first dance-steps, a frolicking Marilyn Monroe, and many others. It is whilst serving at a ball thrown on Bastille Day that Gilmore met Charles de Gaulle. Joe was nineteen, and invented a cocktail called ‘Lorraine’, in honour of the French president. De Gaulle immediately befriended the boy- Joe recalls that the two chatted about star signs ‘I’m an Aries and so was Charles’ grandmother!’ Gilmore exclaims; the president had told to him that he always got on well with Aries. That night, other than Lorraine cocktails, plenty of champagne was drunk. ‘Not just any champagne’ Joe specifies, no, only the best –the only one, he adds, that Princess Grace accepted to drink: Krug 1928, which cost the meek sum of £10 000 a bottle. This was not the only time Gilmore invented a cocktail to mark a special event. His creations were regular and much celebrated: today, they have been published for customers to recreate in ‘The Savoy Cocktail Book’. One of Joe’s most famous one is ‘moonwalk’, a champagne-based cocktail invented for the astronauts after their arrival back from the moon. Joe sent the cocktail, along with twelve champagne flutes to the Houston Space Centre. Armstrong personally sent a note to Gilmore thanking him: Joe’s concoction was the first drink they had had since their return onto Earth. By 1955, Gilmore was named head barman. He trained and managed a team of bartenders, and remained very hard-working; he remembers being often offered drinks by customers, but never drank during work- he wanted to set a good example. Joe mentions with a bright smile his friend Rudolf Slavek, head bartender of the George V in Paris, who sent customers over to him. Gilmore’s reputation had outgrown him, international clients and avid cocktail drinkers came to him from different countries. Customers were always friendly: over the years, he developed strong bonds with many of them, who he was to travel with round the world years later. In many cases, he was the only bartender some clients would trust with their drinks. Frank Sinatra was a regular, known to always come into the American to sip a martini before a show. He was only ever served by Joe, ‘he’d walk in and say ‘Set ‘em up Joe!’ Gilmore explains. No more explanation was required. Sinatra mostly drank martinis, but occasionally ordered it with Smirnoff vodka, once the alcohol became popular in the 50s. Joe then complemented the drink with a zest of lemon- but watch out! ‘never put the fruit inside the drink’ he indicates ‘only squeeze a drop of oil from the peel’- just how Frank liked it.
On other occasions, Sinatra sat at the piano and played a few tunes to relax. Legend has it that the song ‘Set ‘em up Joe’ was written in Gilmore’s honour. Recently, the cocktail genius and alcohol expert was chosen to represent Smirnoff Black. Joe talks about Smirnoff vodka with a certain fondness, like remembering an old friend. As he explains, alcohol usage varied through time, due to political climate, production, drinking habits etc. The war was marked by a scarcity of gin. Vodka was unavailable until after the 50s: the Smirnoff family moved from Moscow, Russia to America and started producing it locally rather than importing it. It quickly became very popular, both on its own and used in a variety of cocktails: as he explains, every alcohol must be handled differently: while gin can only be stirred for it can otherwise ‘bruise’, vodka can be shaken with no fear, allowing a greater flexibility of cocktails. The arrival of Smirnoff Black in bars led Joe to create many more drinks: Ingmar Bergman only ordered vodka-fizz (vodka, soda, fresh lemon juice ‘always use fresh juices!’ he insists). Today, he advises us to use ‘only use the finest ingredients’ and gives us the recipe for his Balalaika cocktail, a vodka-based cocktail which was extremely popular after the war, as an homage to Smirnoff Black’s Russian origins. The distinctive smoothness of the vodka complements the acidity of the lemon juice, and adds a kick to it: to be tried (and tried again) at home:
Today, this father of three and grandfather of 4 is still happily married, and has been for the past 65 years. Does he miss his days at the Savoy? Not really, he says, he stills goes back to visit regularly. Customers have kept in touch with him, and Joe was taken round the world- from GStaad to Houston (‘I made it to America in the end!’), the elegant man seems content. ‘A good life’ he smiles, as he finishes his last drop of wine. stimulusrespond.com
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