F. G. Messenbaeck • Melody Monies
ANCIENT MAN‘S LAND
a stillandlife book
a stillandlife book
A Creation Myth Years ago, when the world was young, the Great Manitou decided to make man. He shaped man out of wet clay and put him in an oven. But Manitou was nervous. He opened the oven too soon and took man out when he was still white and only half-baked. “Too bad,” Manitou said. “I’ve spoiled man. I’ll let this poor white man run away while I try again.” Manitou tried again. He mixed more clay and put another man in the oven. But he went hunting and forgot about the oven. When he inally got back the clay man was burned black. “Too bad,” Manitou said. “I’ve spoiled man again. I’ll let this poor black man run away while I make a better one.” For the third time Manitou mixed some clay and made man and put him in the oven. This time he waited patiently until man was done exactly right, baked to a beautiful red color. That is how Manitou made the perfect man. The Indian. A Cherokee Indian Creation Myth. From: How Man Began, Walter L Bateman, 1966, Beneic Press
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• Plate 1 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
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Copyright Š Photographs and Text by F. G. Messenbaeck and Melody Monies All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without permission in writing form from the publisher.
1st Edition 2020 Layout: Dr. Franz G. Messenbaeck, www.stillandlife.com Proofreading: Dylan Monies Printed by Blurb, www.blurb.com Book On Demand
a stillandlife product
F. G. Messenbaeck • Melody Monies
ANCIENT MAN’S LAND
a stillandlife book
Fremont Rock Art, Holy Ghost Panel, Horseshoe (Barrier) Canyon, Utah Âť
• Plate 2 •
M. Monies
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
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“Nothing lives long. Except the earth and the mountains.� Death Song sung by the Cheyenne Chief White Antelope, Sand Creek Massacre on November 29, 1864
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
• Plate 3 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
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The Really Really Big Day! Melody’s Diary, Wednesday, November 13th, 2019
We could not have dreamed about such a wonderfully historic, scenic, exciting, a little bit exhausting, surprising ... day. Without any problem at all, because Franz worked hard in the weeks before the trip to get as many trailhead locations into the Garmin, we got to the trailhead. The drive to the Over/Under Ruins is a well maintained dirt/rock road and we saw something we haven’t seen previously and that is the over abundence of Ute signs warning us to stay of of private property. Lots of them and hand made with some having used a good amount of red paint. The problem with having so many signs is that it makes you wonder what is on that land. OK, yeah – it could be just someone’s home or farmlands – but in this land of wonderful Indian history it makes me think there are ruins – or some other great thing my brain can’t even conjure up. Some signs = good. Too many signs = makes people want to know. At some point we get to a unmarked dirt road – that lookes like all the other unmarked dirt roads and we turn in. We travel as far as it will take us – 10 slow moving minutes or so and park. We are alone – we have seen no cars coming or going. We are ready for this big day in which we hope to see the infamous cave, where in 1893 remains of the Basketmaker culture were irst found.
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“Ninety-seven skeletons were taken from this cave. Many of the men showed evidences of having been killed, as spearpoints were found between the ribs and arrowpoints in the backbones. One case where the hip bones were pinned together with a huge obsidian spearpoint shows that no small amount of force was used to bury a point of that size into two inches of bone.” Richard Wetherill, 1896
We have gotten some good video of the beginning of the hike and almost from the start you can see the Over/Under Ruin on the other side of the canyon. Impressive is a good description. The hike takes us over the top of the west side canyon wall and then zigzagging down to the wash bottom. Here it is sandy with some kind of grass or wheat that’s as tall as me. We made our way across the wash pushing the grass out of the way. Then, up a sandy ridge – probably made from the last rain – and we are about 7 feet above the wash bottom. 50 feet straight in front of us is an alcove with ruins. I head straight for it and Franz heads left (north) towards the Over/Under Ruin. After some moments of exploration of unnamed cave #1 (our designation) I head over to the Over/Under Ruin. Oddly, I can’t remember much about the Over Ruin mostly because you can’t get to it unless maybe you repel from the top and then swing in. One of the younger Wetherill brothers was a really excellent climber, repeller and rope guy. I read about him in the book “Cowboys and Cave Dwellers” written by Fred Blackburn and Ray A. Williamson. The Under section has a big red snake painted on the back wall. He is about 2 inches thick and is easily seen against the light orange background. I am calling it a snake but actually it could be a river – there isn’t one near here, except in the wash after a hard rain. So I am more apt to believe it’s a snake – now what does that mean: could be a snake was spotted here and they were warning others or future peoples or it could be they were members of the “snake clan” a guide told us about – they were supposed to be a bit ruthless.
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The sun is creeping in on us – we should have gotten here a little bit earlier. There is a nice picture to be had standing to the very left of the alcove shooting diagonally at the ruins. There is a little alcove under the Under Ruin – I forgot to check it out, darn. There is at least one signature left in a metate with initials SD. On to the unnamed cave #1 for Franz to take pictures. We stayed as much as possible on the slick rock east side. The next place we got to – at the same level is a large alcove with a few trees growing in it – a beautiful spot. We don’t see any signs of ruins. If you let your imagination run wild it will show you a place where children played or the community met to dance – etc. How these big trees are surviving growing on this slick rock is interesting. If the ancient people had instruments I am sure they would have sounded good here. From here after an easy 10 minute hike we came to cave / alcove #3. There was a plethora of easily seen shards of pottery and broken pieces of beautiful red hard rock probably used for cutting. Why is all of this pottery here? Almost immediately you can tell this is diferent than when explorers / hikers come through and upon inding a piece of pottery put it on the wall in the ruin. This looks like a midden that is being washed of the slick rock and probably down in the wash. The next good rain sends every-thing down. Where will it go – and be lost from this site. The ceiling of the alcove is orange and black with holes in the back wall for wood posts to hold at least the roof but probably for a second loor. The cave holds a few ghost walls. After some exploring we decide to press on heading in a southeasterly direction. Soon we ind another alcove – unnamed alcove #4. It’s on the same level as the last alcove but set further back – their front yard was deeper. There is a large tree – a juniper perhaps – 20 feet to the front and left of the alcove. There’s something white under it. It is a bone. And this area is clearly another midden pile – being unearthed by rain. We decide this looks like a foot bone. Human or not it’s a cool ind– very bleached out and white. We leave it where we found it. What a great life adventure this is! The alcove has ghost wall ruins but the impressive thing here is the pictograph panel: deer, kokopelli with pack, snakes, rivers, signatures you can hardly read, shields, red handprints. Some picked art looking like an old snowlake – maybe a symbol of the sun. But the best are the triangular shaped red people. These could be from the Fremont Indians AD 950 - 1200. Horses weren’t introduced to the United States until the 1500’s so the pictographs, petroglyphs and peckings are from diferent times ... so people have lived in this alcove for a long time. The triangular shaped ones are my favorites.
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Another special item I found here was a broken piece of purple glass bottle. There is a not so great picture on my iPhone but the piece was part of the rim – which did not have any grooves for twisting on a cap. I suspect and hope it’s a piece of a glass bottle left over from when the Wetherill boys were here. It sure was an exciting thing for an old bottle collector to ind. In any case we head left on top of the slick rock in search of a spot we had saved on the Garmin named Cave 8 – we could see it but not get to it. Franz tried but was unsuccessful. We abandoned the idea and then Franz thought we should get going – walking slowly out. I wouldn’t hear anything of that and somehow convinced Franz we should look for one last cave. It was about 2:45pm and the sun sets a little bit before 5pm so we struck a deal that we would start back to the car at 3:30pm. From Cave 8 we travel back over a path we used to get there – which then turns to the right and back towards the car. Instead we go straight down the sandy embankment across the wash loor to a wall of slick rock – we need to be on the other side. So up and over we go. Once on the other side we realize we are in another box canyon – we now know this is Whisker’s Draw. Looking up we see a shallow alcove on the right and head up there – the alcove is just deep enough to ofer shade for the women who would have been grinding corn on the metates we found here. You can easily see, with closed eyes, them sitting together talking and working. Franz goes down to the wash and I stayed on the slick rock. Within a few minutes – OMG and low and behold one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen – we were not expecting to see – it took my breath away and the longer we were there it made me both emotional and giddy. Pastel Ruin – we had seen this ruin once in a video but didn’t realize it was here. The walls surrounding and in the alcove are a beautiful yellow and pink – and she is in the shade. The picture of giddiness ...
There is a huge sandy bottom alcove under Pastel Ruin ... the special cave ? The last picture with my iPhone was at 4:13pm – a full 43 minutes past when we promised we would leave. YIKES! To the left of the ruin are two smaller alcoves – the Garmin is telling us that one of them is the cave we are looking for. We spent several minutes being excited and then oddly I felt unfulilled at the same time – at that time I guessed it was because we had to go. We would later ind out we had not yet gotten to this archaeologically important cave, which might explain the odd feeling.
We were the only ones in the whole world here – and that’s 7.7 BILLION PEOPLE.
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I’ve always had the idea in my head that I am good with direction inding and igured that we really needed a short cut home – back to the car. We, at this point, will be hiking in the dark. I saw no reason to back track and looking up the main canyon it seemed like the ridge of sand we would have to hike up went from high to low – low is good for us in this case (less vertical climb). Point A to Point B to Point C – a sure thing. Point A to Point C – not so sure thing. Franz was not so sure of this idea – but I told him to just trust me. I would be a big fat liar if I told you I wasn’t nervous about this idea – but, I was more sure of myself than worried. I was right, the ridge became less and less steep as we went along and at some point we were up and over it – and crazy as it sounds point C had my shoe prints in the sand. Wahoo!! Short cut found! Franz led us most of the way back pushing a really good pace. I went down three times on the super slidy wheat grass – luckily enough for me I popped back up. Really lucky. We ind a slick rock section on the left which we are about 90% sure is where we came down (dropped in). At one moment we were absolutely sure and then were weren’t – it was now dark – but not completely thou. We zigzagged up the slick rock on tired legs with unsure steps (DARKNESS). At some point we made it to the top and had a premature “We made it” dance/shout out only to ind out that we couldn’t see the car. The Garmin brought us to the trailhead (lesson now learned) but now we were in 99% darkness. I don’t know why but I had the car keys in my pocket and just started hitting the unlock button just knowing that I would see the headlights come on – lashing back the whole time to a 20 plus year old commercial of a hiker looking for his car the same way. My thumb was starting to get tired (joking – but not joking) and my mind immediately went to PLAN B: - sleep in the Over/Under Ruin - stay up here on the slick rock until morning - what food do we have? - what water do we have? - are there meat eaters (other than Franz and I) up here? - will we be warm enough? ... and then the horn BEEPS and the lights lash on! – Yeah!! – The car wasn’t more that 35 feet from us. Yep, it was dark!
WHAT A GREAT DAY!!
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THE CREATION Chapter One
1 • The Creation
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• Plate 4 •
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
M. Monies
• Plate 5 •
M. Monies
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
The Creation • 1
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1 • The Creation
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• Plate 6 •
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 7 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
The Creation • 1
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1 • The Creation
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• Plate 8 •
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
M. Monies
The Creation • 1
“There was a world before this one in which we are living at present; that was the world of the first people, who were different from us altogether. Those people were very numerous, so numerous that if a count could be made of all the stars in the sky, all the feathers on birds, all the hairs and fur on animals, all the hairs of our own heads, they would not be so numerous as the first people.” From: Introduction to Creation Myths of Primitive America by Curtin, Jeremiah, 1835-1906, 1898, Page reissued 1969
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1 • The Creation
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• Plate 9 •
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 10 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
The Creation • 1
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1 • The Creation
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• Plate 11 •
Canyon X, Page, Arizona
F. G. Messenbaeck
1 The Creation •
• Plate 12 •
Upper Antelope Canyon
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1 • The Creation
• Plate 13 •
Indian Creation Myth • Under World and Emergence • 1
The Black World The irst world was black and it had four corners. Over each corner appeared four cloud columns which were black, white, blue, and yellow. Creatures living in that Black world were thought of as Mist people and had no deinite form. These creatures were diferent kinds of insects as well as First Man.
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F. G. Messenbaeck Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
1 • The Creation
Indian Creation Myth • Under World and Emergence • 2
The Blue World The second world, like the irst world, contained many diferent chambers through which the insect people traveled. In addition to the insect people there were various wolves, wildcats, badgers, mountain lions and kit foxes living in the Blue World.
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• Plate 14 •
M. Monies
Rattlesnake Canyon, Page, Arizona
The Creation • 1
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1 • The Creation
Indian Creation Myth • Under World and Emergence • 3
The Yellow World The third world contained two large rivers which crossed each other from north to south and east to west. Also, there were the six sacred mountains. In the Yellow world the separation of the sexes occured. Also a lood took place which drove the creatures out of this world.
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• Plate 15 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Canyon X, Page, Arizona
The Creation • 1
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1 • The Creation
Indian Creation Myth • Under World and Emergence • 4
The Glittering World The Emergence from the Under World with the Glittering World took place at this time. The fourth world was won by a display of magic by locust. First Man and First Woman taught the others to build a hogan made of ive logs. The sacred mountains were remade and placed in their proper places. Each mountain was given a guardian which was to dwell inside. The placement of the sun and moon took place here.
Pages 32, 34, 36, 38 from: Gorman, Howard; and Others, 1971; Materials Prepared All or in Part as Result of Oice of Education Small Research Grant OEG-9-9-120076-0050(057) [To Navajo Community College], p. 121
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• Plate 16 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
The Creation • 1
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1 • The Creation
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• Plate 17 •
Owl Canyon, Page, Arizona
M. Monies
• Plate 18 •
M. Monies
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
The Creation • 1
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1 • The Creation
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• Plate 19 •
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
M. Monies
• Plate 20 •
M. Monies
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
The Creation • 1
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1 • The Creation
• Plate 21 • »
An Indian Cosmogony Chief Smohalla (Wanapum) The message of this Indian “Preacher” to his people urged them to return to the traditional ways of the past and to abandon the customs of white men, the disrupters of nature.
Once the world was all water and God lived alone. He was lonesome. He had no place to put his foot, so he scratched the sand up from the bottom and made the land, and he made the rocks, and he made trees, and he made a man; and the man had wings and could go anywhere. The man was lonesome, and God made a woman. They ate ish from the water, and God made the deer and other animals, and he sent the man to hunt and told the woman to cook the meat and to dress the skins. Many more men and women grew up, and they lived on the banks of the great river whose waters were full of salmon. The mountains contained much game and there were bufalo on the plains. There were so many people that the stronger ones sometimes oppressed the weak and drove them from the best isheries, which they claimed as their own. They fought and nearly all were killed, and their bones are to be seen in the hills yet. God was very angry at this and he took away their wings and commanded that the lands and isheries should be common to all who lived upon them; that they were never to be marked of or divided, but that the people should enjoy the fruits that God planted in the land, and the animals that lived upon it, and the ishes in the water. God said he was the father and the earth was the mother of mankind; that nature was the law; that the animals, and ish, and plants obeyed nature, and that man only was sinful. This is the old law. »
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F. G. Messenbaeck » Canyon X, Page, Arizona »
1 • The Creation
» I know all kinds of men. First there were my people (the Indians); God made them irst. Then he made a Frenchman (referring to the Canadian voyagers of the Hudson Bay company), and then he made a priest (priests accompanied these expeditions of the Hudson Bay company). A long time after that came Boston men (Americans are thus called in the Chinook jargon, because the irst of our nation came into the Columbia river in 1796 in a ship from Boston), and then King George men (the English). Later came black men, and last God made a
Chinaman with a tail. He is of no account and has to work all the time like a woman. All these are new people. Only the Indians are of the old stock. After awhile, when God is ready, he will drive away all the people except those who have obeyed his laws. Those who cut up the lands or sign papers for lands will be defrauded of their rights and will be punished by God’s anger. Moses was bad. God did not love him. He sold his people’s houses and the graves of their dead. It is a bad word that comes from Washington. It is not a good law that would take my people away from me to make them sin against the laws of God. You ask me to plow the ground! Shall I take a knife and tear my mother’s bosom? Then when I die she will not take me to her bosom to rest. You ask me to dig for stone! Shall I dig under her skin for her bones? Then when I die I can not enter her body to be born again. You ask me to cut grass and make hay and sell it, and be rich like white men! But how dare I cut of my mother’s hair? It is a bad law, and my people can not obey it. I want my people to stay with me here. All the dead men will come to life again. Their spirits will come to their bodies again. We must wait here in the homes of our fathers and be ready to meet them in the bosom of our mother.
From Fourteenth Annual Report of the Bureau of American EthnoIogy (MM). Part 2. pp. 720-21.
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• Plate 22 •
M. Monies
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
The Creation • 1
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1 • The Creation
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• Plate 23 •
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 24 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
The Creation • 1
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1 • The Creation
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• Plate 25 •
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 26 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
The Creation • 1
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THE LAND Chapter Two
2 • The Land
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• Plate 27 •
San Juan River and Monument Valley seen from Muley Point, Utah
M. Monies
The Land • 2
Ancient Man’s Land lay across the southern Colorado Plateau and the upper Rio Grande drainage. It spanned northeastern Arizona, northwestern New Mexico, southeastern Utah and southwestern Colorado – a land with forested mountain ranges, stream-cut mesas, dry grasslands, and occasional river beds.
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2 • The Land
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• Plate 28 •
Mexican Hat, San Juan River, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 29 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Muley Point, Utah
The Land • 2
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2 • The Land
Despite its name, the Colorado Plateau is not a flat area, but a landscape with contrasting features and colors, including dramatic canyons with steep walls, sculptural formations, towering monoliths, and mesas with flat tops. Today the region embodies the epitome of the Old West and includes many of the landscape features that are so often seen in the backdrop of movies and books. Interesting rocks and breathtaking views can be found almost everywhere on the plateau. In the last century it has a higher sense of national parks and monuments in the country.
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• Plate 30 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Monument Valley, Arizona
The Land • 2
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2 • The Land
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• Plate 31 •
Monument Valley, Arizona
M. Monies
• Plate 32 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Monument Valley, Arizona
The Land • 2
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2 • The Land
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• Plate 33 •
Horseshoe Bend, Colorado River, Page, Arizona
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 34 •
M. Monies
Horseshoe Bend, Colorado River, Page, Arizona
The Land • 2
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2 • The Land
The Colorado Plateau – its elevations are ranging from about 3300 to more than 13,000 feet – is a geologically stable block in North America that was created by linear movements in the earth’s crust. The structurally simple geology is contrasted by the surrounding complex, strongly folded mountain ranges. It appears that the entire region has been excluded from the mountain design that characterizes the nearby but much younger Rocky Mountains. Geologists appreciate the characteristic layer cake patterns that have not been distorted by mountain formation. Flat-lying sedimentary rocks that are vertically offset by faults and folds are typical of the Colorado Plateau. It took millions of years of wind and rain to carve these outcroppings from solid stone. The layers of the rocks are very well exposed thanks to the dry climate and the deep subsidence by the Colorado River itself, but also by its many tributaries such as Green River, Escalante River and San Juan River.
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• Plate 35 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Valley of the Gods, Utah
The Land • 2
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2 • The Land
In addition to the yellow and brown desert colors, the many colors of the rocks are characteristic of the plateau region. You will find red, pink, yellow, green, purple and white caused by minor components of iron oxides (red, pink and yellow) and nonoxidized iron minerals (green and purple). Granite and basalt contrast gray and black, and in some areas manganese colors lavender. Especially after a little rainfall, the country also turns striking green.
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• Plate 36 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Spider Rock, Canyon de Chelly, Arizona
The Land • 2
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2 • The Land
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• Plate 37 •
Painted Desert, Petriied Forest National Park, Arizona
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 38 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Blue Mesa, Petriied Forest National Park, Arizona
The Land • 2
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2 • The Land
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• Plate 39 •
Painted Desert, Petriied Forest National Park, Arizona
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 40 •
M. Monies
Canyon de Chelly, Arizona
The Land • 2
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2 • The Land
Plates 35-37:
The caps of the Wahweap Hoodoos (near Kanab, Utah) is Dakota Sandstone which was a beach of an incoming seaway, it is 100 million years old. The posts of the hoodoos is Entrada Sandstone that is 160 million years old. These columns are thin and delicate, almost pure white in color. The surface has a pretty, rippled texture. The contrast of the white pedestals with the orange/purple rocks on top is quite striking.
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• Plate 41 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Wahweap Hoodoos, Kanab, Utah
The Land • 2
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F. G. Messenbaeck Wahweap Hoodoos
2 The Land •
« • Plate 42 • • Plate 43 • »
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2 • The Land
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• Plate 44 •
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 45 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
The Land • 2
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2 • The Land
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• Plate 46 •
Moqui Cave, Kanab, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 47 •
M. Monies
Moqui Cave, Kanab, Utah
The Land • 2
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THE ANCIENTS Chapter Three
3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 48 •
Ruin in Butler Wash, Comb Ridge, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 49 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ruin in Butler Wash, Comb Ridge, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
“We rode around the head of the canyon and found a way down over the clifs to the level of the buildings. We spent several hours going from room to room and picked up several articles of interest.” Charles Mason’s own account of their irst entrance into the ruins
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The Ancients • 3
Finding remains of Ancient Man
The Anasazi It was snowing on December 18, 1888. Richard Wetherill and his brother in law Charles Mason were rounding up stray cattle in the canyons of Mesa Verde. They followed the trail of the cattle to the mesa top, and along the tree-covered tableland. The trail led them near the edge of the mesa, to a place where the growth of juniper and pinon pines thinned out. The cowboys looked across the canyon and saw an amazing sight in the clif opposite them. High in the wall was a very large cave with an overhanging roof that protected it completely from the snow. A great clif dwelling illed the cave. This, they thought, must be the tremendous clif dwelling an Indian had described before. The two men rode along the mesa top until they were just above the dwelling. Then they noticed a faint trail leading down to the cave, and followed it. From: The First Book of the Clif Dwellers, Rebecca B. Marcus; Franklin Watts Inc., New York, 1968
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3 • The Ancients
The name the Anasazi had for themselves is unknown to us. They did not have written words. Several hundred years after their departure, large numbers of Navajo Indians came from the north and seeing the remains of their buildings they gave the builders the name Anasazi (“ancient people” or, in another translation, “enemies of our forefathers”).
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• Plate 50 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Butler Wash Ruins, Comb Ridge, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 51 •
Honeymoon House Ruin, Mystery Valley, Arizona
M. Monies
• Plate 52 •
M. Monies
Honeymoon House Ruin, Mystery Valley, Arizona
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
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« • Plate 53 • • Plate 54 •
Plates 47 and 48: White House Ruin, Canyon de Chelly, Chinle, Arizona
M. Monies
• Plate 55 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
White House Ruin, Canyon de Chelly, Chinle, Arizona
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 56 •
Mummy Cave Ruin, Canyon del Muerto, Chinle, Arizona
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 57 •
M. Monies
Mummy Cave Ruin, Canyon del Muerto, Chinle, Arizona
The Ancients • 3
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« • Plate 58 • • Plate 59 •
« F. G. Messenbaeck M. Monies
« Long House Ruin, Mystery Valley, Arizona Granary, Mystery Valley, Arizona
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
The Anasazi were a people almost unique in the world – their culture was special. There were no kings, chiefs, nobles, warrior class, or elite. They were farmers who constructed masonry pueblos and cliff dwellings, hunted small game, and planted and harvested corn, beans, and squash. They were a neolithic people without a beast of burden, the wheel, metal, or a written language, yet they constructed magnificent masonry housing and ceremonial structures, irrigation works, and water impoundments. Cliff dwellings - stone houses, villages and cities built in caves or on large shelves in steep canyon walls - are considered representative of the Anasazi architecture. Most of the cliff dwellings were built on south-facing ledges in deep sandstone canyons. Thanks to the southern exposure, the low-lying sun provided warmth in winter. The overhanging lip of the cliff provided cool shade against the high summer sun. Agricultural fields were cultivated on the mesas above and sometimes in wider gorges below the houses. Access to most cliff dwellings consisted of a series of small hand- and toeholds in the steep sandstone walls.
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• Plate 60 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Antelope Ruin, Canyon del Muerto, Chinle, Arizona
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
Plates 55-59:
The River House Ruin is located approximately 12 miles southwest of the small town of Bluff, Utah near the scenic San Juan River, on the west side of Comb Ridge. It’s home to a number of pictograms and a kiva and several one- and two-story rooms. It is believed that these dwellings were inhabited by the Ancestral Puebloans sometime between 900 and the late 12th century.
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• Plate 61 •
M. Monies
River House Ruin, Comb Ridge, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 62 •
River House Ruin, Comb Ridge, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 63 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
River House Ruin, Comb Ridge, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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« • Plate 64 • • Plate 65 •
M. Monies
Plates 58 and 59: River House Ruin, Comb Ridge, Utah
The Ancients • 3
105
3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 66 •
F. G. Messenbaeck Moon House Ruin
3 • The Ancients
108
• Plate 67 •
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 68 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
Plates 60-67:
Moon House Ruin (located in McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa) consists of three cliff dwellings spread out along one quarter mile of the canyon. With a total of 49 rooms, it is one of the largest prehistoric dwellings on Cedar Mesa. It is also one of the most fragile.
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• Plate 69 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
The Ancients • 3
111
3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 70 •
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
M. Monies
The Ancients • 3
Exploring the Moonhouse Melody’s Diary, Thursday, November 7th, 2019
Coming from Monument Valley we are now on Hwy 261 North, heading to Moonhouse Ruins, through the Valley of the Gods on the Cedar Mesa. The drive up to the top of the Cedar Mesa has many warning signs: 10% Grade, NO Trucks, NO RV’s, Gravel Road, 15mph, Hair Pin Turns, Skinny Road. You have to be paying attention! I’m not sure which is worse – day or night driving on this thing. Once you get to the top there is a newly pave road-go igure. The fun begins after we take a right onto Snow Flat Road. This road makes the road to Little Finland in Gold Butte National Monument seem like the proverbial walk in the park – it is a rocky road and places going down or up that you move an inch at a time hoping to NOT scrape the undercarriage of your HIGH clearence vehicle – you should never drive your own car here. Furthermore, you do everything carefully so as not to puncture a tire. Towing fees in places this far out are about $2000.
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About an hour in we ind the sandy road going to the trailhead – we think about driving it but there are a couple of spots where it seems we would only be driving on the 2 right tires. We opt to park and walk. 30 minutes later of very sandy walking we are at the trailhead – just a small brown wooden sign with “Trailhead” written on it. From here we have about 10 minutes to the rim of the canyon – walking on slick rock. Carins guide you to the rim. Wthout them you could ind the rim eventually – the slick rock will not show a path and you coud easily go too far to the right or left. Once at the edge/rim the view is beyond belief – it takes your breath away – REALLY! The path down is not steep and takes us to the left of where we dropped in and suddenly we are on a ledge and the path ends. From this point there is absolutely NO way down but we can see the ruin on the other side. It is beautiful – and then about 30 seconds later and simultaneously we are both angry – what is this? I thought we could walk right up to it? No way!! This can’t be right! It was “being cheated” deined. After a few moments of that I said we must have taken the wrong path and we started back tracking. We got to a certain point and stopped to look around for another path – and we found it. Not so easily seen and now more into a descending mode. The new corrected path zigzags back and forth until a certain section where we had to take our packs of, sit down, scooch to the edge and hope when you push of that your foot lands on a man made (for short people, by short people I’m sure) pile of rocks. Then handing the packs down. The way back up will be a big step up with the help of some wiggly rocks. The path from here is straight down and by that I mean – take a ball and put it on the ground and watch it go fast down! The path is sandy so you have to ind a secure foot hold or the slide begins – the reality is that every step erodes away the clif side and when it rains it takes all of this loose sand and rocks and sends it to the bottom of the canyon and then it’s gone. The bottom of the canyon is picturesque – cottonwood trees still holding onto some fall yellow colored leaves. Our trail leads us between two huge rocks that at one point was one rock broken in half when it hit the ground and seperating just enough for us to squeeze through. Immediately on the other side the ground is hard slick rock with indentations which could easily be the tracks of a small dinosaur. Wonderful!! The width of the ground loor of this canyon – McCloyd Canyon – is maybe 150 feet wide. Not wide at all. The trail is not visible because we are back onto solid rock so we are glad for the carins. You could igure your way up but it would take you some more time. This is not a hike for folks that are not in shape. About 5-7 minutes of climbing and we are on the ridge with the Moonhouse Ruin. It is unbelievable – I’m breathless! We just keep saying WOW! How old? Well, the BLM report says there is evidence of early Basketmakers (0-500AD) and tree ring dating of some rooms say they were built aroung 1246 AD.
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The Ancients • 3
Some things I want to remember: We were here alone! We were the only people in the whole world here for hours. There are 7.7 billion people on the planet and only two of them are here. During the main season only 20 permits a day are granted for this site but from November - March no permits are necessary. March 1st - June 15th and September 1st - October 31st are high use times. There are more ruins to the left and right of this main village on the same ledge. I had trouble settling down to take pictures – I wanted more to walk around and be an archaeologist. We find a few shards of pottery – beautiful. 2nd half of the day has these ruins in full sun.
We can’t believe how lucky we are to be here! We also can’t believe we have to leave here and we have to do it before dark because the hike up (in sandy loom) will be interesting – then we have the 1 ½ mile hike back to the car AND the drive out – some sun light will be necessary. I hate it, but we lost our water bottle on the way down – we have searched and searched even going back to the ledge where we irst saw the ruins. We just can’t ind it.
I wish my son Dylan was here too!
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3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 71 •
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
M. Monies
• Plate 72 •
M. Monies
The Ancients • 3
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
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• Plate 73 •
M. Monies Moon House Ruin
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 74 •
House on Fire, Mule Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
The Ancients • 3
The native people of the Southwest – the Anasazi – represent 2,500 years of cultural continuity from the early Basketmakers of 700 B.C. to their modern descendants, the Pueblo Indians. The pueblos and cliff dwellings built by these ancient people during their halcyon days between AD 1000 and 1500 are the most spectacular ruins north of Mexico. The history of this area is as vibrant and various as the landscape. From the beginning, native peoples left signs of their presence. For the last 13,000 years, humans have inhabited this part of the Southwest. They carved arrowheads from stone and hunted among the cliffs and canyons and on the mesas, leaving behind tools and projectile points. Hunters and gatherers continued to live in this area in the Archaic Period.
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At least 2,500 years ago, Ancestral Puebloans began to occupy the area – leaving behind items from their daily lives like baskets, pottery, and weapons. They learned to farm corn and created communities on the mesa tops. They scratched and painted images onto rocks and reused what was left by earlier generations. These early farmers left their marks on the land, such as remains of dwellings, granaries, kivas and towers. They were part of a complex cultural history linked together by larger villages and roads. Hand and toe holds carved into steep canyon walls demonstrate the early people’s inventiveness and persistence and are still used today to access dwellings along step cliff walls. Ruins of their dwellings allow visitors to admire the artistry and architecture that have resisted thousands of seasons in this harsh climate. The stories of these earlier peoples are still here, told by the places and things they left behind.
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• Plate 75 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ruin, near Fish Mouth Cave, Comb Ridge, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
Plates 70-72:
Fallen Roof Ruin (Road Canyon, Cedar Mesa) is one of the most iconic ruins of Cedar Mesa. At some point in time a large slab of rock above the ruin fell, leaving a bright orange surface above the ruin. A seep that ran through the layer before it collapsed left bright white mineral deposits.
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• Plate 76 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Fallen Roof Ruin, Road Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 77 •
Fallen Roof Ruin, Road Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 78 •
Melody Monies
Fallen Roof Ruin, Road Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 79 •
Ruin, near Fish Mouth Cave, Comb Ridge, Utah
M. Monies
• Plate 80 •
Melody Monies
Double Alcove Ruin, Comb Ridge, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
When the Anasazi came from the underworld through a portal called sipapu to the surface of the earth, the Creator showed them how to find a location of harmony and balance. There they built their pueblos. The Creator told them to treat the ressources with respect and how to be aware of the seasons. He also filled them with a deep awareness of spirituality and sacred places and a reverence for their origins.
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• Plate 81 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ruin, Lower Butler Wash, Comb Ridge, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
The Anasazi chose sites close to a water source, fertile grounds, game, firewood and other useful ressources and they respected a balance between their own needs and nature. They developted methods to predict seasonal changes and some mountans and prominent buttes were sacred places for them.
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• Plate 82 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Square House Ruins, Mystery Valley, Arizona
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 83 •
Double Alcove Ruin, Comb Ridge, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 84 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Granary near Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
The Ancients • 3
135
3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 85 •
Over/Under Ruins, Cedar Mesa, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 86 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Over/Under Ruins, Cedar Mesa, Utah
The Ancients • 3
137
3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 87 •
Ballroom Cave Ruin, Butler Wash, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 88 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ballroom Cave Ruin, Butler Wash, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
Over hundreds of generations, this land has seen multiple cycles of growing population, followed by depopulation. Today, what’s still there is a dense collection of artifacts and dwellings from different periods and groups. Over a few thousand years, ancient people left behind artifacts that give insight into the past – including tools, buildings and even food. Nowadays, a visitor can see the history of thousands of years by doing a single step.
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• Plate 89 •
Melody Monies
Target Ruin, Butler Wash, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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• Plate 90 •
The Ancients • 3
A civilization older than the Anasazi Cliff Dwellers Finding the Basketmakers (500 BC - 750 AD) in Cave 7
Farming maize for calories. Floodwater farming in valleys, dry farming on the top of mesas. Turkeys, probably primarily for their feathers. Natural shelters and pithouses built in the open. Rock art with anthropomorphic figures. Coiled and twined basketry but no pottery, well-made sandals. Bow and arrow appears at the very end of the period. Increase in regional population from 500 AD on. Pottery and beans added to farming. Pithouses located near farm fields. Small villages of multiple pithouses. A few great kivas were probably used as gathering places.
M. Monies Ruin near Cave 7: During the Hyde Exploring Expedition in December 1893 Richard Wetherill described this site as “small house 200 yards south of Cave number 7”.
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3 • The Ancients
Richard Wetherill’s sketch maps of Cave 7: Top-longitudinal cross-section from the artifact catalog, with stratigraphy labeled clif house, debris and skeleton(s)
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The Ancients • 3
“We have only worked one cave there is hundreds of them here, but all of this class of digging is deep ... You would be much interested we have now taken 90 skeletons from one cave the heads are different from the Cliff Dweller.” Richard Wetherill, December 21, 1893, Bluf City, Utah
The irst cave in which these remains were found was in the Cottonwood. A clif house was there and had previously been explored. By digging through about two feet of Clif Dweller debris we came upon a layer of sand about two feet in thickness. This varied somewhat in parts of the cave. This layer corresponds with the dirt found in other caves upon which the clif buildings arc made. Ninety-seven skeletons were taken from this cave. Many of the men showed evidences of having been killed, as spearpoints were found between the ribs and arrowpoints in the backbones. One case where the hip bones were pinned together with a huge obsidian spearpoint shows that no small amount of force was used to bury a point of that size into two inches of bone. Richard Wetherill described the ind again in 1896, in a letter to Dr. T. Mitchell Prudden of New York City
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3 • The Ancients
The Basketmaker Discovery The Basketmaker discovery was made in southeastern Utah by Richard Wetherill and the other members of the Hyde Exploring Expedition in a cave which they called Cave 7, late in the fall of 1893. Their ind is of great interest, not only because it demonstrated the existence of an earlier culture underlying the clif dweller remains, but also because it produced the largest series of Basketmaker skeletal remains yet recovered from a single site and revealed evidence of a prehistoric massacre. Despite its archaeological and historical importance, Cave 7 and the collections taken from it have been largely ignored by archaeologists. Prior to the late summer and fall of 1990, the cave had never been systematically re-examined, and even its location and identity had been forgotten. Any 1893 plan maps or ield notes that may have existed in addition to the sketchy comments in Wetherill’s artifact ield catalog have disappeared, while the surviving notes have rarely been thoroughly studied. From: Rediscovering the “Great Discovery”: Wetherill’s First Cave 7 and its Record of Basketmaker Violence; Winston B. Hurst and Christy G. Turner II, pp. 143 f; in: Anasazi Basketmaker: papers from 1990 Wetherill-Grand Gulch Symposium
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• Plate 91 •
Melody Monies
Site of ruin near Cave 7, Cedar Mesa, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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3 • The Ancients
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• Plate 92 •
Ruin near Cave 7, Cedar Mesa, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 93 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ruin near Cave 7, Cedar Mesa, Utah
The Ancients • 3
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THEIR MESSAGE Chapter Four
4 • Their Message
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• Plate 94 •
Positive and negative handprint, Over/Under Ruin, Cedar Mesa, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
Their Message • 4
Everywhere in this landscape, ancient man created rock art that dates back thousands of years. As people moved through the area, they left their own types of messages on cliff faces, in caves and on boulders – the oldest known rock art in western North American. They painted some of the images onto stone, rendering them with colored minerals and liquid binding agents applied, for example, with yucca-leaf brushes or their fingertips and hands. Painted images are often called “pictographs” or simply “rock paintings”. The Indians pecked, chiseled or incised other images into stone, producing them with blunt and with flaked stone tools. These are called “petroglyphs”, and they are far more common than pictographs.
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4 • Their Message
The petroglyphs and pictographs of this area stimulate the fantasy, with images dating back at least 5,000 years and showing a collection of styles and traditions. From life-size ghostlike figures outside of any categorization, to the more real illustration of bighorn sheep, birds, and lizards, these drawings enable us to feel the humanity of these ancient artists. Some areas contain spectacular rock art, including hundreds of petroglyphs at Newspaper Rock, part of a vertical Wingate sandstone cliff in Indian Creek Canyon. It is also the less visible sites in remote canyons however, that tell the story of the people who lived here.
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• Plate 95 •
M. Monies
Mystery Valley, Arizona
Their Message • 4
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4 • Their Message
Three stick man figures, each in a different color, white handprints on photograph | Ballroom Cave Ruin, Butler Wash, Cedar Mesa (Detail of photograph Plate 87)
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• Plate 96 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ballroom Cave Ruin, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Their Message • 4
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4 • Their Message
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• Plate 97 •
Panel Ruin, Wiskers Draw, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 98 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Panel Ruin, Wiskers Draw, Utah
Their Message • 4
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4 • Their Message
160
• Plate 99 •
Panel Ruin, Wiskers Draw, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 100 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Panel Ruin, Wiskers Draw, Utah
Their Message • 4
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4 • Their Message
“I can’t always say with certainty that I understand what is being portrayed. So I tell people on my trips that I don’t interpret rock art. It’s common to see whole scenes on the rocks, but creating stories out of that can lead you to the wrong impression. Some folks out there claim to be able to look at a rock art panel and to be able to decode these informations. But that’s just a very individual version of a story.” Navajo Guide, Mystery Valley
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• Plate 101 •
M. Monies
Mystery Valley, Arizona
Their Message • 4
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4 • Their Message
Assigning an exact date to a petroglyph is difficult. One indicator is the artistic style of when a drawing may have been created. When a drawing was etched into the rock, there were already ancient pictures on it, lighter etchings were probably added later. Things that are older tend to take on patina, so if something is totally repatinated and dark, then it’s pretty old compared to something that is a lot brighter. Although these drawings were made by different peoples at different times, they share a common purpose – communication. Studying rock art helps to understand how society has developed, from groups of hunters and gatherers to agricultural communities.
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• Plate 102 •
M. Monies
Mystery Valley, Arizona
Their Message • 4
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4 • Their Message
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• Plate 103 •
Mystery Valley, Arizona
M. Monies
• Plate 104 •
M. Monies
Canyon de Chelly, Chinle, Arizona
Their Message • 4
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4 • Their Message
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• Plate 105 •
Mystery Valley, Arizona
M. Monies
• Plate 106 •
M. Monies
Mystery Valley, Arizona
Their Message • 4
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4 • Their Message
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• Plate 107 •
Ballroom Cave Ruin, Butler Wash, Utah
M. Monies
• Plate 108 •
M. Monies
Ballroom Cave Ruin, Butler Wash, Utah
Their Message • 4
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4 • Their Message
“... The Under section has a big red snake painted on the back wall. He is about two inches thick and easily seen against the light orange background. I am calling it a snake but actually it could be a river – there isn’t one near here. So I am more opt to believe it’s a snake – now what does that mean: could be a snake was spotted here and they were warning others or future peoples or it could be they were members of the “snake clan” a guide told us about – they were supposed to be a bit ruthless ...” From: Melody’s Diary, Hike to Over/Under Ruin, Wednesday, November 13th, 2019
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• Plate 109 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Over/Under Ruin, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Their Message • 4
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4 • Their Message
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• Plate 110 •
Wolfeman Panel, Lower Butler Wash, Comb Ridge, Utah
M. Monies
The Ancients • 3
Wolfeman Panel is a petroglyph site located on Comb Ridge near the south end of the Butler Wash Road near Bluff, Utah. The panel consists of multiple images that were precisely pecked into the dark patina of the cliff. The bullet holes in the Wolfman Panel are old, maybe some cowboys could not resist to use it as a shooting target.
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THEY LEFT Chapter Fife
5 • They left
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• Plate 111 •
Near Fishmouth Cave, Comb Ridge, Utah
M. Monies
They left • 5
Just as they reached their cultural pinnacle across the southwestern United States, the ancient peoples began to break the bonds with their traditional ranges, their revered mountains, their fields and irrigation systems, sacred monuments, rock art galleries and established trade routes. Forsaking the great physical and spiritual investments by generations, their cities, spread out over an enormous extent of territory, were all abandoned at the same time in the 13th century. Why? There is no scientific explanation. The migration of the Anasazi might have occurred in two directions. To the southwest to Arizona, where the present-day Hopi are located. They claim the Anasazi as their ancestors. And to the southeast to New Mexico, there live 19 tribes of Pueblo Indians.
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5 • They left
The End of the World Many years ago, when I was a little boy, I used to watch the old men sitting in the tipis, and sometimes in the lodges, rattling the gourds and singing. Several times I asked my father what the old men were singing about. My father would say: “Those old men are singing about Tirawa. When you grow up you will learn more about the songs of these old men.” I was anxious to know more about the sacred bundle and the singing of the old men. When night came and I lay down with my grandmother, I said: “Grandmother, why do the old men sit in the lodges, rattle the gourds, and sing?” My grandmother then told me the following story: My grandchild, many years ago, before we lived upon this earth, Tirawa placed wonderful human beings upon the earth. We knew of them as the wonderful beings or the large people. These people lived where the Swimming Mound is in Kansas. The bones of these large people were found upon the sides of the hill of the Swimming Mound. The old people told us that at this place the rain poured down from the heavens, and the water came from the northwest upon the earth so that it became deep and killed these wonderful beings. When these people were killed by the lood, Tirawa placed an old bufalo bull in the northwest, where the water had come in from the big water so that it overlowed the land. The bufalo bull was put at this place to hold the water back, so that it would not overlow the land any more. This bufalo was to remain at this place for many years. Each year this bufalo was to drop one hair. When all the hairs of the bufalo had come of then the people would not live upon the earth any more. From: The End of the World, a Pawnee Myth, Young Bull (Pitahaunat Pawnee); George A. Dorsey, ed., The Pawnee Mythology, Part 1 (Washington, D.C., 1906).
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• Plate 112 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Near Fishmouth Cave, Comb Ridge, Utah
They left • 5
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5 • They left
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• Plate 113 •
Canyon de Chelly, Chinle, Arizona
M. Monies
• Plate 114 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Canyon de Chelly, Chinle, Arizona
They left • 5
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« • Plate 115 • • Plate 116 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
« Calf Creek, Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, Boulder, Utah Comb Wash, Cedar Mesa, Utah
They left • 5
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5 • They left
A Pawnee Mother’s Advice to Her Son, Lone Chief You must trust always in Ti-ra’-wa. He made us, and through him we live. When you grow up, you must be a man. Be brave, and face whatever danger may meet you. Do not forget, when you look back to your young days, that I have raised you, and always supported you. You had no father to do it. Your father was a chief, but you must not think of that. Because he was a chief, it does not follow that you will be one. It is not the man who stays in the lodge that becomes great; it is the man who works, who sweats, who is always tired from going on the warpath. When you get to be a man, remember that it is his ambition that makes the man. If you go on the warpath, do not turn around when you have gone part way, but go on as far as you were going, and then come back. If I should live to see you become a man, I want you to become a great man. I want you to think about the hard times we have been through. Take pity on people who are poor, because we have been poor, and people have taken pity on us. If I live to see you a man, and to go of on the warpath, I would not cry if I were to hear that you had been killed in battle. That is what makes a man: to ight and to be brave. I should be sorry to see you die from sickness. If you are killed, I would rather have you die in the open air, so that the birds of the air will eat your lesh, and the wind will breathe on you and blow over your bones. It is better to be killed in the open air than to be smothered in the earth. Love your friend and never desert him. If you see him surrounded by the enemy, do not run away. Go to him, and if you cannot save him, be killed together, and let your bones lie side by side. Be killed on a hill; high up. Your grandfather said it is not manly to be killed in a hollow. It is not a man who is talking to you, advising you. Heed my words, even if I am a woman. From: George Bird Grinnell. Pawnee Hero Stories and Folk-Tales (New York. 18S9). pp. 52-53
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• Plate 117 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Road Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
They left • 5
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5 • They left
Funeral Oration You still sit among us, Brother, your person retains its usual resemblance, and continues similar to ours, without any visible deiciency, except that it has lost the power of action. But whither is that breath lown, which a few hours ago sent up smoke to the Great Spirit? Why are those lips silent, that lately delivered to us expressive and pleasing language? Why are those feet motionless, that a short time ago were leeter than the deer on yonder mountains? Why useless hang those arms that could climb the tallest tree, or draw the toughest bow? Alas! Every part of that frame which we lately beheld with admiration and wonder, is now become as inanimate as it was three hundred years ago. We will not, however, bemoan thee as if thou was for ever lost to us, or that thy name would be buried in oblivion; thy soul yet lives in the great Country of Spirits, with those of thy nation that are gone before thee; and though we are left behind to perpetuate thy fame, we shall one day join thee. Actuated by the respect we bore thee while living, we now come to tender to thee the last act of kindness it is in our power to bestow: that thy body might not lie neglected on the plain, and become a prey to the beasts of the ield, or the fowls of the air, we will take care to lay it with those of thy predecessors who are gone before thee; hoping at the same time, that thy spirit will feed with their spirits, and be ready to receive ours, when we also shall arrive at the great Country of Souls. From: Jonathan Carver, Travels Through the Interior Parts of North America, in the Years 1767. and 1766, 1768 (London, 1778), Chapter 15.
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• Plate 118 •
M. Monies
Near River House Ruin, Comb Ridge, San Juan River, Utah
They left • 5
189
5 • They left
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• Plate 119 •
Wiskers Draw, Cedar Mesa, Utah
F. G. Messenbaeck
• Plate 120 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Sandy Island, San Juan River, Bluf, Utah
They left • 5
191
CENTURIES LATER Chapter Six
6 • Centuries later
“The tribes which occupied the countries now constituting the Eastern states were annihilated or have melted away to make room for the whites. The waves of population and civilization are rolling to the westward, and we now propose to acquire the countries occupied by the red men of the South and West by a fair exchange, and, at the expense of the United States, to send them to a land where their existence may be prolonged and perhaps made perpetual.” Andrew Jackson, Message to Congress, December 6, 1830
“You will do well to try to inoculate the Indians by means of blankets in which smallpox patients have slept, as well as by every other method that can serve to extirpate this execrable race. I should be very glad if your scheme of hunting them down by dogs could take effect.” General Jefrey Amherst, Letter to a subordinate, 1732
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Centuries later • 6
“It is just and reasonable and essential to our interest and the security of our colonies that the several nations or tribes of Indians with whom we are connected, and who live under our protection, should not be molested or disturbed in the possession of such parts of our dominions and territories as, not having been ceded to or purchased by us, are reserved to them, or any of them, as their hunting grounds.” Proclamation of 1763
“It may be regarded as certain, that not a foot of land will ever be taken from the Indians, without their own consent. The sacredness of their rights is felt by all thinking persons in America as much as in Europe.” Thomas Jeferson, 1786
“The utmost good faith shall always be observed toward the Indians; their lands and property shall never be taken from them without their consent; and in their property, rights, and liberty they never shall be invaded or disturbed unless in just and lawful wars authorized by Congress; but laws founded in justice and humanity shall, from time to time, be made for preventing wrongs being done to them and for preserving peace and friendship with them.” Northwest Ordinance, July 13, 1787
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6 • Centuries later
« • Plate 121 •
Problems of Off-Reservation Employment Jim Becenti (Navajo), 1948 It is hard for us to go outside the reservation where we meet strangers. I have been of the reservation ever since I was sixteen. Today I am sorry I quit the Santa Fe R.R. I worked for them in 1912-13. You are enjoying life, liberty, and happiness on the soil the American Indian had, so it is your responsibility to give us a hand, brother. Take us out of distress. I have never been to vocational school. I have very little education. I look at the white man who is a skilled laborer. When I was a young man I worked for a man in Gallup as a carpenter’s helper. He treated me as his own brother. I used his tools. Then he took his tools and gave me a list of tools I should buy and I started carpentering just from what I had seen. We have no alphabetical language. We see things with our eyes and can always remember it. I urge that we help my people to progress in skilled labor as well as common labor. The hope of my people is to change our ways and means in certain directions, so they can help you someday as taxpayers. If not, as you are going now, you will be burdened the rest of your life. The hope of my people is that you will continue to help so that we will be all over the United States and have a hand with you, and give us a brotherly hand so we will be happy as you are. Our reservation is awful small. We did not know the capacity of the range until the white man come and say “you raise too much sheep, got to go somewhere else,” resulting in reduction to a skeleton where the Indians can’t make a living on it. For 80 years we have been confused by the general public, and what is the condition of the Navajo today? Starvation! We are starving for education. Education is the main thing and the only thing that is going to make us able to compete with you great men here talking to us.
From The American Indian. Vol. 4. No. 3 (1948)
198
« M. Monies « Monument Valley, Arizona
• Plate 122 •
M. Monies
Navajo Generating Station, coal-ired power plant, Page, Arizona
Centuries later • 6
199
6 • Centuries later
200
• Plate 123 •
Crossroads Trading Post, AZ-98 and Indian Rte 16, Arizona
M. Monies
• Plate 124 •
M. Monies
Crossroads Trading Post, AZ-98 and Indian Rte 16, Arizona
Centuries later • 6
201
6 • Centuries later
In 2016, President Barack Obama created the Bears Ears National Monument, southeast Utah, named for a pair of tall buttes that resemble the top of a bear’s head peeking over a ridge. His proclamation recognized the area’s “extraordinary archaeological and cultural record” and the land’s “profoundly sacred” meaning to many Native American tribes. This monument protected 1.35 million acres of federally-owned land and covered much of San Juan County, which has about 15,000 residents. Eleven months later, in early December of 2017, President Trump – urged by the uranium mining lobby – reduced Bears Ears National Monument by 85 percent.
202
Centuries later • 6
“It is ironic that after almost 500 years of attempting to destroy both the American earth and the civilization of the American Indian, the oppressors are discovering that they now need the Indian to save them from themselves. America still has national forests, parks, and wilderness areas, but everywhere they are under growing pressures of destruction. Excessive timber cutting, reckless mineral exploitation, damming and pollution of wild rivers, extinction of wildlife – all proceed apace. If the Government could persuade various Indian tribes to take over protection of these last natural paradises, perhaps they could be saved.” Dee Brown, “The First Environmentalists”, New York Times, June 15th, 1971
203
6 • Centuries later
204
• Plate 125 •
Abandoned Meteor City, former Route 66, Exit 219 of I-40 E, Arizona
M. Monies
• Plate 126 •
M. Monies
Abandoned Meteor City, former Route 66, Exit 239 of I-40 E, Arizona
Centuries later • 6
205
6 • Centuries later
206
• Plate 127 •
Abandoned Twin Arrows Trading Post, former Route 66, Exit 219 of I-40 E, Arizona
M. Monies
• Plate 128 •
F. G. Messenbaeck
Abandoned Twin Arrows Trading Post, former Route 66, Exit 219 of I-40 E, Arizona
Centuries later • 6
207
About the Photographs
About the Photographs
210
Plate 1
F. G. Messenbaeck
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
13 sec
F 12
Plate 2
Melody Monies
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1,6 sec
F 11
Plate 3
F. G. Messenbaeck
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
2,5 sec
F 11
Plate 4
Melody Monies
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
2 sec
F8
Plate 5
Melody Monies
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
3 sec
F8
Plate 6
F. G. Messenbaeck
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
2,5 sec
F 11
Plate 7
F. G. Messenbaeck
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
2,5 sec
F 11
Plate 8
Melody Monies
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
0,6 sec
F 11
Plate 9
F. G. Messenbaeck
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
0,4 sec
F 11
Plate 10
F. G. Messenbaeck
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1,6 sec
F 12
Plate 11
F. G. Messenbaeck
Canyon X, Page, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
0,8 sec
F8
Plate 12
F. G. Messenbaeck
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1,6 sec
F 11
Plate 13
F. G. Messenbaeck
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
2,5 sec
F 11
Plate 14
Melody Monies
Rattlesnake Canyon, Page, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
3 sec
F 11
Plate 15
F. G. Messenbaeck
Canyon X, Page, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
0,6 sec
F 7,1
Plate 16
F. G. Messenbaeck
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1,6 sec
F 11
About the Photographs
Plate 17
Melody Monies
Owl Canyon, Page, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/8 sec
F8
Plate 18
Melody Monies
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
3 sec
F 11
Plate 19
Melody Monies
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
4 sec
F8
Plate 20
Melody Monies
Upper Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
4 sec
F 11
Plate 21
F. G. Messenbaeck
Canyon X, Page, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1 sec
F 11
Plate 22
Melody Monies
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 62 mm
1/150 sec
F 11
Plate 23
F. G. Messenbaeck
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/25 sec
F 10
Plate 24
F. G. Messenbaeck
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/30 sec
F 10
Plate 25
F. G. Messenbaeck
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/40 sec
F8
Plate 26
F. G. Messenbaeck
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/20 sec
F8
Plate 27
Melody Monies
San Juan River and Monument Valley seen from Muley Point, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 58 mm
1/6 sec
F 11
Plate 28
F. G. Messenbaeck
Mexican Hat, San Juan River, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/2 sec
F 11
Plate 29
F. G. Messenbaeck
Muley Point, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/125 sec
F 11
Plate 30
F. G. Messenbaeck
Monument Valley, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
30 sec
F 11
Plate 31
Melody Monies
Monument Valley, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 44 mm
1/60 sec
F 11
Plate 32
F. G. Messenbaeck
Monument Valley, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/5 sec
F9
211
About the Photographs
212
Plate 33
F. G. Messenbaeck
Horseshoe Bend, Colorado River, Page, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/8 sec
F 11
Plate 34
Melody Monies
Horseshoe Bend, Colorado River, Page, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
0,8 sec
F 11
Plate 35
F. G. Messenbaeck
Valley of the Gods, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 180 mm / 5,6 T
1 sec
F 11
Plate 36
F. G. Messenbaeck
Spider Rock, Canyon de Chelly, Arizona
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/2 sec
F 11
Plate 37
F. G. Messenbaeck
Painted Desert, Petrified Forest National Phase One IQ180 Park, Arizona Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/30 sec
F 11
Plate 38
F. G. Messenbaeck
Blue Mesa, Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/200 sec
F 10
Plate 39
F. G. Messenbaeck
Painted Desert, Petrified Forest National Hasselblad X1d-50c Park, Arizona
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/400 sec
F8
Plate 40
Melody Monies
Canyon de Chelly, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/125 sec
F 11
Plate 41
F. G. Messenbaeck
Wahweap Hoodoos, Kanab, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 180 mm / 5,6 T
1/4 sec
F 11
Plate 42
F. G. Messenbaeck
Wahweap Hoodoos, Kanab, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/8 sec
F 11
Plate 43
F. G. Messenbaeck
Wahweap Hoodoos, Kanab, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/8 sec
F 11
Plate 44
F. G. Messenbaeck
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 120 mm / 5.6
1/4 sec
F 11
Plate 45
F. G. Messenbaeck
Little Finland, Gold Butte National Monument, Nevada
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6 1/30 sec
F 11
Plate 46
F. G. Messenbaeck
Moqui Cave, Kanab, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6
1 sec
F 11
Plate 47
Melody Monies
Moqui Cave, Kanab, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
0,5 sec
F 11
Plate 48
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ruin in Butler Wash, Comb Ridge, Utah
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/8 sec
F8
About the Photographs
Plate 49
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ruin in Butler Wash, Comb Ridge, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/2 sec
F 11
Plate 50
F. G. Messenbaeck
Butler Wash Ruins, Comb Ridge, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/2 sec
F 11
Plate 51
Melody Monies
Honeymoon House Ruin, Mystery Valley, Nikon D800E Arizona
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 68 mm
1/13 sec
F 11
Plate 52
Melody Monies
Honeymoon House Ruin, Mystery Valley, Nikon D800E Arizona
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 28 mm
1/50 sec
F 11
Plate 53
Melody Monies
White House Ruin, Canyon de Chelly, Chinle, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 70 mm, 3stitch-Panorama
1/640 sec
F 11
Plate 54
Melody Monies
White House Ruin, Canyon de Chelly, Chinle, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 38 mm
1/500 sec
F 11
Plate 55
F. G. Messenbaeck
White House Ruin, Canyon de Chelly, Chinle, Arizona
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/60 sec
F 11
Plate 56
F. G. Messenbaeck
Mummy Cave Ruin, Canyon del Muerto, Chinle, Arizona
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 120 mm / 5.6
1/125 sec
F 11
Plate 57
Melody Monies
Mummy Cave Ruin, Canyon del Muerto, Chinle, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 44 mm
1/15 sec
F 11
Plate 58
F. G. Messenbaeck
Long House Ruin, Mystery Valley, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/160 sec
F 11
Plate 59
Melody Monies
Granary, Mystery Valley, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 250 mm
1/60 sec
F 11
Plate 60
F. G. Messenbaeck
Antelope Ruin, Canyon del Muerto, Chinle, Arizona
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/4 sec
F 11
Plate 61
Melody Monies
River House Ruin, Comb Ridge, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 50 mm, 3stitch-Panorama
1/100 sec
F 11
Plate 62
F. G. Messenbaeck
River House Ruin, Comb Ridge, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6 1/60 sec
F 11
Plate 63
F. G. Messenbaeck
River House Ruin, Comb Ridge, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 120 mm / 5.6
1/60 sec
F 11
Plate 64
Melody Monies
River House Ruin, Comb Ridge, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/125 sec
F 11
213
About the Photographs
214
Plate 65
Melody Monies
River House Ruin, Comb Ridge, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
Plate 66
F. G. Messenbaeck
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 120 mm / 5.6
Plate 67
F. G. Messenbaeck
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6 1/400 sec
F8
Plate 68
F. G. Messenbaeck
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/125 sec
F 11
Plate 69
F. G. Messenbaeck
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6
1 sec
F 11
Plate 70
Melody Monies
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/20 sec
F 11
Plate 71
Melody Monies
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/6 sec
F 11
Plate 72
Melody Monies
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/4 sec
F 11
Plate 73
Melody Monies
Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G, 3stitch-Panorama
1/4 sec
F 11
Plate 74
F. G. Messenbaeck
House on Fire, Mule Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6
1/4 sec
F 11
Plate 75
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ruin, near Fish Mouth Cave, Comb Ridge, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6
1/2 sec
F 11
Plate 76
F. G. Messenbaeck
Fallen Roof Ruin, Road Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6 3stitch-Panorama
1/4 sec
F 11
Plate 77
F. G. Messenbaeck
Fallen Roof Ruin, Road Canyon, Cedar
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6
14 sec
F 11
Plate 78
Melody Monies
Fallen Roof Ruin, Road Canyon, Cedar
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/15 sec
F 11
Plate 79
Melody Monies
Ruin, near Fish Mouth Cave, Comb Ridge, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/125 sec
F 11
Plate 80
Melody Monies
Double Alcove Ruin, Comb Ridge, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
0,3 sec
F 11
1/250 sec
F 11
1/8 sec
F 11
About the Photographs
Plate 81
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ruin, Lower Butler Wash, Comb Ridge, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
Plate 82
F. G. Messenbaeck
Square House Ruins, Mystery Valley, Arizona
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
Plate 83
F. G. Messenbaeck
Double Alcove Ruin, Comb Ridge, Utah
Plate 84
F. G. Messenbaeck
Plate 85
1 sec
F 11
1/50 sec
F8
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6 1/125 sec
F 11
Granary near Moon House Ruin, McCloyd Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6 1/125 sec
F 11
F. G. Messenbaeck
Over/Under Ruins, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/50 sec
F 7.1
Plate 86
F. G. Messenbaeck
Over/Under Ruins, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6
1/4 sec
F 11
Plate 87
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ballroom Cave Ruin, Butler Wash, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6
1/4 sec
F 11
Plate 88
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ballroom Cave Ruin, Butler Wash, Utah
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/20 sec
F8
Plate 89
Melody Monies
Target Ruin, Butler Wash, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 50 mm
1/250 sec
F 11
Plate 90
Melody Monies
Ruin near Cave 7, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/2 sec
F 11
Plate 91
Melody Monies
Site of ruin near Cave 7, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/4 sec
F 11
Plate 92
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ruin near Cave 7, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1 sec
F2
Plate 93
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ruin near Cave 7, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/2 sec
F 11
Plate 94
F. G. Messenbaeck
Positive and negative handprint, Over/ Under Ruin, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/25 sec
F 11
Plate 95
Melody Monies
Mystery Valley, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 150 mm
1/80 sec
F 11
Plate 96
F. G. Messenbaeck
Ballroom Cave Ruin, Butler Wash, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Rodenstock HR Digaron SW 90 mm / 5,6 1/125 sec
F 11
215
About the Photographs
216
Plate 97
F. G. Messenbaeck
Panel Ruin, Wiskers Draw, Utah
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/160 sec
F 5,6
Plate 98
F. G. Messenbaeck
Panel Ruin, Wiskers Draw, Utah
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/160 sec
F 5,6
Plate 99
F. G. Messenbaeck
Panel Ruin, Wiskers Draw, Utah
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/125 sec
F 5,6
Plate 100
F. G. Messenbaeck
Panel Ruin, Wiskers Draw, Utah
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
Plate 101
Melody Monies
Mystery Valley, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 230 mm
1/30 sec
F 11
Plate 102
Melody Monies
Mystery Valley, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 150 mm
1/80 sec
F 11
Plate 103
Melody Monies
Mystery Valley, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 100 mm
1/30 sec
F 11
Plate 104
Melody Monies
Canyon de Chelly, Chinle, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 200 mm
1/160 sec
F 11
Plate 105
Melody Monies
Mystery Valley, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 250 mm
1/40 sec
F 11
Plate 106
Melody Monies
Mystery Valley, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 250 mm
1/80 sec
F 11
Plate 107
Melody Monies
Ballroom Cave Ruin, Butler Wash, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 100 mm
1/5 sec
F 11
Plate 108
Melody Monies
Ballroom Cave Ruin, Butler Wash, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED,105 mm
1/5 sec
F 11
Plate 109
F. G. Messenbaeck
Over/Under Ruin, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/20 sec
F 11
Plate 110
Melody Monies
Wolfeman Panel, Lower Butler Wash, Comb Ridge, Utah
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 250 mm
1/125 sec
F 11
Plate 111
F. G. Messenbaeck
Near Fishmouth Cave, Comb Ridge, Utah Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/60 sec
F 11
Plate 112
F. G. Messenbaeck
Near Fishmouth Cave, Comb Ridge, Utah Hasselblad X1d-50c
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/200 sec
F9
1/2000 sec F 5,6
About the Photographs
Plate 113
Melody Monies
Canyon de Chelly, Chinle, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 62 mm
1/125 sec
F 11
Plate 114
F. G. Messenbaeck
Canyon de Chelly, Chinle, Arizona
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 180 mm / 5,6 T
1/15 sec
F 11
Plate 115
F. G. Messenbaeck
Calf Creek, Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, Boulder, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/30 sec
F 11
Plate 116
F. G. Messenbaeck
Comb Wash, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/180 sec
F 11
Plate 117
F. G. Messenbaeck
Road Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 120 mm / 5.6
1/4 sec
F 11
Plate 118
Melody Monies
Near River House Ruin, Comb Ridge, San Nikon D800E Juan River, Utah
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/160 sec
F 11
Plate 119
F. G. Messenbaeck
Wiskers Draw, Cedar Mesa, Utah
Hasselblad XCD 45 mm / 3,5
1/13 sec
F 10
Plate 120
F. G. Messenbaeck
Sandy Island, San Juan River, Bluff, Utah Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1 sec
F 11
Plate 121
Melody Monies
Monument Valley, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/500 sec
F 11
Plate 122
Melody Monies
Navajo Generating Station, coal-fired power plant, Page, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 78 mm
1/1000 sec
F 11
Plate 123
Melody Monies
Crossroads Trading Post, AZ-98 and Indian Rte 16, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 45 mm
1/160 sec
F 11
Plate 124
Melody Monies
Crossroads Trading Post, AZ-98 and Indian Rte 16, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 45 mm
1/160 sec
F 11
Plate 125
Melody Monies
Abandoned Meteor City, former Route 66, Exit 219 off I-40 E, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm 1:3,55,6G ED, 90 mm
1/200 sec
F 11
Plate 126
Melody Monies
Abandoned Meteor City, former Route 66, Exit 219 off I-40 E, Arizona
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/125 sec
F 11
Plate 127
Melody Monies
Nikon D800E
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm / 1.8 G
1/160 sec
F 11
Plate 128
F. G. Messenbaeck
Abandoned Twin Arrows Trading Post, former Route 66, Exit 219 off I-40 E, Arizona Abandoned Twin Arrows Trading Post, former Route 66, Exit 219 off I-40 E, Arizona
Phase One IQ180 Linhof Techno
Schneider Apo-Digitar 72 mm / 5.6 L
1/125 sec
F 11
Hasselblad X1d-50c
217
218
Rattlesnake Canyon, Page, Arizona
M. Monies
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Melody Monies lives in South Carolina and Austria and is a real estate photographer. Landscapes and relics from the past are her favorite subjects to photograph.
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Franz G. Messenbaeck is a professional photographer and a surgeon. His passion is landscape photography. In addition, he runs a small but ine portrait studio.
www.stillandlife.com • www.theprintedview.com
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“Nothing lives long. Except the earth and the mountains.� Death Song sung by the Cheyenne Chief White Antelope, Sand Creek Massacre on November 29, 1864