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Square1magazine

Stripes

never go out of style All you need this fall & winter! | Simply cherish | Be picky


From the editor

Square1magazine Square one, that’s twofold inspiration: 1 - Back to square one, back to the start. What would you pick again if you made a fresh start. And 2 - it’s a box, what would you keep with you in a box, or what would you pass on. Surrounding yourself with things that matter. To be completely honest, I guess I don’t categorise as a typical minimalist. I guess I’m more lazy; I don’t want to be spending too much time on choosing outfits, matching colours, worrying about things going out of style after a few weeks. So I hope to bring you exactly that: ease. Some new ideas to re-use what you already have (page 14-17) (which is often more than you think) borrow from a friend, buy second hand / preloved etc.) and what to invest in if you’re going to buy sustainable (page 20). This first edition is an ode to one of the classics of almost every wardrobe and fashion era: stripes (bretons, colours, different strokes). Just watch pictures of a capsule wardrobe on pinterest and find every picture with almost two striped items - I rest my case. Since I started working in this growing field of sustainable fashion, it has amazed me with how many inspiring people I get to work. The energy, the ideas. We’re on the right track! What a journey lies ahead! Let’s get on with it!

- Anjolieke

3 Contents 3 Show & tell Karin 6 Show & tell Willemijn 9 The Indispensables 10 Stripe lovers 11 Show & tell Simona 14 Fashion 18 Stripes - column 19 Marjolein Elisbeth 20 Be picky 21 Credits

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Show & Tell with Karin from the Kledingbibliotheek

As a (recently graduated) student I always want to find the perfect balance between affordable and ethical when it comes to my clothes. I don’t believe that fair fashion or sustainable fashion necessarily means it needs to be expensive, but it is easy to forget that some things simply can’t be that cheap for no reason. You just have to be creative! Which is why we started De Kledingbibliotheek in 2014.

fashion era. But just because it’s an extremely mainstream, fast fashion item doesn’t mean it’s a ‘bad thing’ in my opinion. I’ve been wearing it with so much enjoyment for a long time and I will continue to do so for hopefully many, many years. That’s sustainable as well. The leather bag is another second hand find. It was gathering dust in someones attic and it needed some care when I got it. Now it fits my work stuff perfectly and it is incredibly sturdy. It will definitely last -another- lifetime. The final part of my outfit is the ring, which is a mix of silver and Australian opal. I spend some time doing research in Australia and when I left I got this as present from my best friend there as a way to take a part of Australia with me. It adds so much to the item when it has a personal story behind it. It always makes me smile when I wear it!

The outfit that I’m wearing partly consist of a organic cotton shirt that I bought second hand on Marktplaats.nl. I love buying things second hand, whether it is from Marktplaats.nl, a flea market or going to clothing swop events. There is already so much stuff in the world, we don’t need to produce that much more. Wearing a second hand item gives it a new or prolonged purpose and you can get amazing things for great prices, but since you are reading this magazine, I’m not telling you anything new. The skirt is one of my favourite pieces. I bought it around six years ago at H&M in my pre-fair -3-

Karin Zwiep


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Show & Tell with Willemijn Vermaas

What are you wearing? Shirt: Filippa K | Pants: inherited from my mom, Blacky Dress | Shoes: from Camper, second hand, bought in Venten, Ceintuurbaan 400 Amsterdam | Earrings: inherited from my mom, do not know the exact origin but it has dried flowers inside How would you describe your style? I think the main characteristic of my style is that it is always feminine but mixed with different looks. Sometimes more preppy or girly other times more folky or sportive. I also like to use colours and mix different patterns and fabric types. Usually I have one item in an outfit that is a bit different and stands out because of the colour for instance. This effect is often automatically created by mixing second-hand and home made pieces with new stuff from good basic brands, smaller boutiques and souvenirs. Finally I love shoes, especially high heals!

What did you gave away that made somebody else really happy? I gave stuff away over the years and made several friends really happy, I also received nice pieces in return. Two years ago I had a stand at the fleamarket during Kingsday and sold a lot. It was actually great to sell things to total strangers. What was the best advice on clothing you ever got? Always make sure the clothing suits your body and your personality. Do not wear something just because it is in fashion or everyone else is wearing it. Also be bold sometimes and trust your instinct. There have been items that I loved but also felt a bit too distinctive and out there. I waited too long to wear them but by the time I did they felt great and some ended up being my favourites.

What item did you owned the longest? I inherited a lot of clothes, shoes and jewelery from my mom so the oldest item in my closet must be one of those. What is the last item you (had) fixed? I actually have two items lying around that need fixing right now. But the last item I ‘saved’ was a dress with a little damage in the stitching on the front, impossible to fix without making it worse. I found a ribbon in the exact same colour as the dress to tie around my waist and hide the damaged spot.

Willemijn Vermaas -6-


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The Indispensables: #2 Breton Stripes The Indispensables is a series of articles written by Study 34’s Eleanor O’Neill. Here are our 5 picks of her selection of breton stripes brands.

When I first started to put together The Indispensables series, I thought it would be difficult to decide which items to feature. But it turned out to be fairly simple. They’re the pieces with fraying hems and cuffs that spend more time on the drying rack then in a draw. The second spot in the series goes to the Breton Stripe – a term I’m using fairly loosely: short sleeves, long sleeves, boat neck, scoop neck, round neck, thick stripes, thin stripes, heavy or lightweight, none will be disqualified for being over or under striped. Horizontal stripes are the only deal breaker. Originally seen as a symbol of women’s liberation, it personifies summer uniform and below are eight examples of this indispensable item:

Mon Breton A Breton post was pretty much cemented once I came across this British brand. Mon Breton simply offer one iconic product in varying weights and subtle colour variations. So what’s so special, you might ask? You can customise. How do you like your stripes in the morning? ‘Mon Breton, My Way.’ ‘Made in France. Made Great in Britain.’

STALF STALF may be the smallest brand on the list, but with every piece designed and handmade in Lincolnshire they sure are mighty. While theirs may stray a little further from Breton tradition, using exclusively British made fabric, this one says relax.

Braintree If you’re looking for a more feminine take on a classic, this one made of 100% organic cotton is from another British brand, Braintree. Offering ‘thoughtful clothing’ that treads lightly on the environment, they have helpful tips on washing, how to avoid colour running as well as generally reducing our substantial impact on the world…

Armor lux Okay, time to be lured over the channel with this beauty from French brand Armor Lux. This classic tee is another style poached from the boys and it has some truly handsome qualities. Trust me, I’ve touched one. Their values? Quality, innovation and ethics. Sounds good to me…

Howlin Looking for a more unconventional take on a classic? Belgian brand howlin’ are serving up a stunner. Made in a towel fabric it’s sure to keep out the English summer chill. Knitted and made in Belgium.

More about The Indispensables & Study 34? check www.study34.co.uk -9-


Thanks to these anonymous stripewearers on ITGWO 2014 Photography: www.chantalehrhardt.com - 10 -


Show & Tell with Simona Negro

What are you wearing? Top: White top is a mix of cotton and silk from Kookaai (2011); Black vest also from Kookaai (2008); Skirt from Numph (2014); Ring from Artelier du Sud This outfit is one of my favourite ones, it fits all occasions, formal or informal, I wear it either with ballerinas in the weekend, or with high heels for work. All items are of such good quality that they keep their shape and colour. I bought the vest for the PhD defense of my boyfriend in 2008; actually I was looking for a formal outfit with a dress/skirt with a jacket, but the shop assistant combined this vest with a beautiful dress, and it looked just as formal. Since then I prefer to wear this vest instead of a jacket as its shape has nearly the same effect. The silk in the shirt make it shiny and so soft and even if it looks like a plain white top, there is a surprise at the back. Its high quality makes it look and feel as good as new every time I wear it. I was so thrilled when I found the skirt at Mevr. Pak, Twijnstraat (unfortunately the shop closed last year). Stripes, straight shape and my size!! About the jewellery, usually I prefer modest items, like the bracelet with the feather, but when I saw this ring I could not resist. I bought it at Guru’s in the Twijnstraat and it’s from Artelier du Sud. They only use natural materials and make limited editions, so every piece is unique. I have a few standard shopping addresses, like the Kookai shop at Jans Kerkhof and Gurus on the Twijnstraat. Even if Kookai is not explicitly fair fashion, the quality of their items is so good that you can keep them for years and years, and also the style never bores me. It’s feminine but also has a twist to it not to make it too sweet, and being a French brand it always fits me. - 11 -


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fashionable stripes Three times in a row

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Fashion shoots always show you how to wear something new. So to be a little rebellious, we show you how to wear the same thing over and over again. The same shirt, styled three times with different items. Shirt | Armor Lux Picture 1 Vest | preloved Monki from Marktplaats.nl Dungarees | preloved Pimkie from a (secondhand and new) shop in Berlin Picture 2 Flared denim | preloved H&M from United Wardrobe Picture 3 Bomber jacket | preloved Maison Scotch from Marktplaats.nl Picture 4 Ear jewelry | made from fairtrade silver by Juffrouw Dubois

Photography: Chantal Aimee Ehrhardt Model: Chanel Trapman - 17 -


Stripes Thinking of stripes and clothes my first thought is Picasso. The great painter from Spain made it his trademark. His whole life he wore the typical Breton-striped shirt. In 1858, the navy and white knit top became the official uniform for French navy seaman in Brittany, with 21 horizontal stripes to represent each of Napoleon’s victories and a continuous stripe on the shirt and its sleeves to make it easier to see sailors in the distance. - By Jeanette Ooink Coco Chanel brought working-class Breton stripes to the fashion world in 1917. They’re still ‘en vogue’. I love my stripes too. In my closet I have two clothing pieces with stripes. One of them is a grey and black striped knitwear pullover by Custo, one of my favorites in winter, that I bought in Spain a few years ago. I even had it repaired because I love it so much. The other I bought recently for late summer and autumn. It has small stripes in dark blue and burgundy and 3/4 sleeves. It is from the latest collection of the German brand Armed Angels and I bought it at Good Fibrations, a great dutch webshop for fair fashion. Timeless Why I love stripes on clothes? Because they are never out of fashion and that’s exactly what I like about it. They are timeless and always hip. I believe there are multiple ways to deal with your wardrobe that are more sustainable, green and fair. One is by not constantly buying new things but holding on to your clothes for a longer period of time. Second if you buy something new, by choosing items that belong to a personal timeless style for yourself and make you look great.

Jeanette Ooink is cofounder of Awearness fashion | www.awearness-fashion.nl th.nl - 18 -


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Three steps to a new t-shirt: 1. Drawing to sample 2. Production studio 3. On the mannequin in my own studio. Ready for its new owner!

Dream it, wish it, do it Fashion designer Marjolein Elisabeth “Marjolein Elisabeth originates from a personal quest. At work I love to wear cheerful, colourful, though suitable, neat clothing, in which I feel just as free as in my spare time. I find, and found, it difficult to get my hands on the right cloths. Therefore, I enrolled in sowing class and learned how to make my own clothing. I received so many enthusiastic reactions regarding my designs, coming from acquaintances as well as from strangers passing by on the street, that I concluded, I wasn’t alone in my search. Quite logical. Young business women spend most of their time at the office. They are expected to perform at high levels, which can only be achieved when you feel comfortable. Clothing helps you feel that way.

Feeling pretty and free in what you wear, makes you glow and want to conquer the world. I enjoy contributing to this feeling by the means of several set models appearing in new colours and prints, twice a year. The concept thereby attributes to an easy online order, as soon as you know the model fits you perfectly.”

“Feeling pretty and free in what you wear, makes you glow and want to conquer the world.”

See the new collection? www.marjoleinelisabeth.nl - 19 -


Be picky! Our favourites this autumn! 4 7 1 8

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Unique ear jewelry made from fairtrade silver | www.juffrouwdubois.com

www.goodfibrations.nl

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Lucia Tunic Stripe (Komodo) |

Navy stockings Olivia (Swedish Stockings) | www.goodfibrations.nl

- made in NL | www.vanjos.nl

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Striped blouse

Lara pencil skirt (People Tree) | www.goodfibrations.nl

Evie zigzag scarf | www.armedangels.de

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Handbag Copper - made in NL | www.renskeversluijs.com

Dana Red stripes (Armedangels) | www.goodfibrations.nl

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May trousers

(Elements of Freedom) | www.goodfibrations.nl

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Thanks

to all the people who contributed

Anjolieke Dertien

Chantal Aimée Ehrhardt

Chanel Trapman

Storytelling enthusiast, founder & designer of Square1magazine

Photographer of inspiring sustainable wardrobes at ‘out of the green closet’

Videoproducer & fair fashion filmer at Mumster productions

www.square1magazine.com

www.chantalehrhardt.com

www.mumster.nl

Marlous de Beer

Marjolein in ‘t Veld - Schouten

Sanne de Vries

Cofounder of Goodfibrations “Make way for slow fashion!”

Owner & designer Marjolein Elisabeth

Owner & goldsmith Juffrouw Dubois

www.goodfibrations.nl

www.marjoleinelisabeth.nl

www.juffrouwdubois.com

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Colofon Art direction, Editor Anjolieke Dertien Photography Cover and fashion shoot (p 17-19) and stripes at ITGWO (p 13) Chantal Aimee Ehrhardt Show & tell Anjolieke Dertien Portrait Sanne de Vries Rob Huibers | Hollandse Hoogte Portrait Marjolein in ‘t Veld - Schouten Anne Dijkhorst

Jeannette Ooink Cofounder of Awearness Fashion, a platform for sustainability in fashion. www.awearness-fashion.nl

Model cover & fashion shoot Chanel Trapman Thanks Rosa van Ederen, Lisa Hol, Simona Negro, Eleanor O’Neill, Willemijn Vermaas, Renske Versluijs, Karin Zwiep Production Libertas Pascal Utrecht Square1magazine www.square1magazine.com New ideas? Let’s connect info@square1magazine.com

And many others For listening, connecting, borrowing clothes, giving ideas etcetera

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