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Mountaineering // Rock Climbing// Expeditions// Adventure
British Climber Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Interview “It felt like a very hard decision. I had struggled away with competitions for a while”
Mount Everest 2015 Season news Polar Explorers Annie Aggens “We organise expeditions to the Polar Regions and that would include the North Pole and the South Pole”
April 2015 Calendar
Featured expedition Rosie Stancer April 2015 £3.50
Top three recommended adventure books
Contents Page
Editor’s Letter
Page. 3 Editors letter.
Hello and welcome to the issue, This month’s edition of Outdoor Interest is packed full of interesting features, news and interviews from the world of mountaineering, rock climbing, and expeditions.
Page. 4 & Page. 5 Feature interview with top British climber, Mina Leslie Wujastyk (pictured right climbing David and Goliath in Vastervik, Sweeden.)
Inside, we talk to top British climber Mina LeslieWujastyk on page 4, about her biggest achievements to date and her decision to leave the competitive circuit. On page 9, this month’s featured expedition is Rosie Stancer’s attempt to become the first woman to walk solo to the North Pole.
Page. 6 April’s calendar. All the events you need to know about coming up this month. Page. 7 3 Books to Read. Outdoor Interest gives you the essential reading material in the world of outdoor adventure. Page. 8 In the News... Everest. As the climbing season starts again this month, Outdoor Interest keeps you up to date with the latest changes and news on the world’s highest mountain. Page . 9 Rosie Stancer. This month’s featured expedition. The British explorer is this year attempting to become the first woman to reach the North Pole solo, we look at the expedition in more detail. Page . 10 & Page . 11 Interview with Annie Aggens of polar exploration company, Polar Explorers. The company specialise in expeditions to the North and South Poles, and we ask her what it takes to plan a trip to the remotest parts of the world.
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p.3 & 4. Photo taken by David Mason, courtesy of Mina Leslie-Wujastyk.
The recent changes in the climbing route on Mount Everest are also covered in detail on page 8, as the climbing season gets underway this month. Also in this month’s edition, we chat to Annie Aggens of polar travel exploration company, Polar Explorers about the processes involved in planning an expedition to the Polar Regions. Hope you enjoy the issue, all the best Carolynn Whorton – Editor
Editor – Carolynn Whorton Creative Director – Carolynn Whorton Senior Writers – Carolynn Whorton Designer – Carolynn Whorton Director – Carolynn Whorton Advertising Sales – Carolynn Whorton Publisher – Carolynn Whorton www.outdoorinterest.co.uk Twitter - @outdoorinterest www.facebook.com/outdoorinterest With thanks to – BMC - https://www.thebmc.co.uk/ Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Sport England – This Girl Can Alastair Humphreys Annie Aggens - Polar Explorers Front page photograph courtacy of BMC/ Alex Messenger. Back Page advertisement courtacy of Sport England.
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk climbing Tetris in Colorado, USA. Image taken by David Mason, courtesy of Mina Leslie-Wujastyk.
The persuit of happiness
think I had to fail on things to realise the pressure I was putting myself under and how unnecessary it was. I think perspective helps you to be kind to yourself and to push yourself forwards in a more compassionate, realistic way. It also teaches you about your insignificance and that can help you to let go a bit.” Mina now focuses more on outdoor climbing, a challenge she admits she thrives off. She explains her biggest accomplishment has also come from outdoor climbing: “At the moment, my biggest achievement feels like Mecca Extension, 8c. It doesn’t have the hardest moves I have ever done but putting the whole thing together from start to finish, battling with conditions and battling with my head, felt very satisfying.” After completing a notoriously difficult 8c, Mina joins only a handful of British female climbers who have tackled the discipline. The climber has a unique outlook on her career and this can also be seen in the articles she writes for her website which give an honest take on her life. She also wrote a thought provoking article, ‘The Art of Losing’ on the Rock and Ice website last year which questioned goal setting and the ability to accept and move forward from failure. The Brit admits it can often be difficult to share such personal reflections: “I don’t find it
“I think perspective helps you to be kind to yourself and to push yourself forwards in a more compassionate, realistic way.” hard to write necessarily, but there is definitely a decision process about whether to make my writing public. When I feel inspired to write, it kind of all flows out. Then I usually let it sit for a few days and then re-read it and decide whether to post it or to change some bits first. I often end up posting things that seem quite personal but I think that that is often what makes writing interesting and accessible to people. If I can feel confident enough to be authentic in the way that I write, then I think the writing is worth more to the readers.” For amateur climbers who themselves are making mistakes along the way, it must be humbling and inspiring to read about one of Britain’s top climbers also going through difficult situations. Mina must be admired for her brutal honesty, and her ability to use her hardships as examples to help others. Last year, the climber was subject of Project Mina, a documentarystyle film that focused on what it is like to be a professional athlete. The film premiered in autumn 2014 at the women’s climbing symposium in Glasgow. Mina explains how the
British climber Mina Leslie Wujastyk spoke to Outdoor Interest’s Carolynn Whorton on her difficult decision to leave the competitive circuit, her new ventures as a qualified yoga teacher and how climbing has helped to shape her outlook on life. Around the 2014 bouldering World Cup season, something had changed for Mina Leslie Wujastyk. At the ISFC (International of Sport Climbing) Climbing World Cup, Mina finished in a respectable 20th place. The second highest female British rank in the competition. The results were not as strong as her 2013 top ten finish, but fluctuations in competitions such as this are common. However, for Mina her climbing
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career was no longer based solely on results, she found herself distanced from the enjoyment of her sport, and was no longer motivated to compete. “It felt like a very hard decision. I had struggled away with competitions for a while and I had put a huge amount of time and effort into trying to be better at them. To finally release myself from the battle felt like admitting to failure and it was hard for my ego but it also felt like a huge
weight off my shoulders.” It takes a special athlete to see the bigger picture, considering their own state of happiness and not just focusing on winning and results all of the time. Perspective is something the Brit considers to be at the forefront of any climbing endeavour, and this attribute is something she has applied to her life decisions too. “I think things like this are mostly leaned through one’s own experience, I
Wujastyk tackles Tea with Elmarie in Rocklands, South Africa. Image taken by David Mason, courtesy of Mina Leslie-Wujastyk.
film came about: “I met Jen Randall during the filming of the Magic Woods section of her previous Push It film, which followed female climbers in varying disciplines. She later approached me about making a film about what is involved in competing on the World Cup circuit.” As well as featuring in a film, Mina has recently become a qualified yoga teacher; something she says is similar to climbing: “I had been thinking about doing this for some time and I finally booked on a teacher training course in India and just went for it. Yoga is a great balancer to climbing but I also love it just for what it offers on its own. Like climbing it has a physical and a mental side. Teaching has been a joy so far, I really enjoy all aspects of it from actually giving the classes to planning them and finding ways to be creative.” Alongside her new venture as a yoga teacher, Mina also reveals what the coming months have in store: “I’m planning to mainly be in the UK, concentrating on sport climbing. Hopefully some sport climbing trips abroad later in the year.” The sport of climbing is increasing in its popularity in the UK. The Brit testifies: “It’s a great sport as it offers a way into the outdoors, physical fitness, mental challenge and also adventure.” So what advice would Mina give to young climbers hoping to progress in the sport? “Enjoy every minute, do what makes you happy and be kind to yourself.” Wise words from the climber. Mina has certainly headed her own advice; after she stopped enjoying the competitive circuit, she chose to peruse outdoor climbing as her main discipline and re-found her love of the sport. Mina’s ability to be honest with herself and put her own happiness before competitions and results is something that climbers of all ages can take on board and people from all walks of life can draw inspiration from.
April 2015 Here is Outdoor Interest’s guide to every notable event you need to know about coming up in April. Friday 10th – Cardiff – 7.30pm BANFF Mountain Film Festival
Sunday 12th Skyline MC Outdoor Climbing Day
Saturday 18th Dirty Dozen Race – London South
The BANFF 2015 world tour stops at Cardiff, for the first time. The festival brings audiences a collection of the best new short films by adventure filmmakers from around the world. The tour also stops off at other British venues throughout April.
The mountaineering club based in Staffordshire, welcome climbers of all ability to have a go at outdoor climbing. The event is free and a great opportunity to see if climbing is something you want to persue. Anyone who attends will be assisted by club members where required.
Now in their second year, the Dirty Dozen Races team push competitors to their limits with courses designed by ex- Special Forces servicemen. Obstacle courses are set across three disciplines, for beginners there’s the ‘Dirty Dash,’ through to the toughest option, the ‘Dirty Destroyer.’
Sunday 19th – BMC Climbing Movement Master Class
Saturday 25th – BMC Youth Climbing Series National Final
Monday 27th – Steve McClure Lecture
This master class with experienced climber Emma Twyford takes place at the Beacon Climbing Centre. Focusing specifically on climbing movements, this is a must for anyone wanting to improve their skills. This event costs £30 for BMC member £40 for non-members. Book early to avoid disappointment.
The final of this year’s youth climbing series takes place at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena. Participants in this event will be ones to watch out for in the future of the climbing world. The top three competitors from every age category from each of the BMC areas meet in a thrilling final.
Steve McClure presents ‘Beyond Limits,’ to an audience at Kings College, London. The professional climber will speak about his life and the challenges he has encountered through climbing. McClure’s talk promises to be an interesting evening for anyone who wants to hear about adventure.
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Books to read...
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here are hundreds of books out there about expeditions, survival and outdoor adventures. If you don’t know quite where to begin, here is Outdoor Interest’s pick of three of our favourites to get you started:
Facing Up Touching Race To The Void The Pole Facing Up is popular adventurer Bear Grylls’ first book. It details his historic ascent of Everest in 1998 at the young age of 23, following his recovery from a freefall parachuting accident in 1996. The book was shortlisted for William Hill Sports book of the year 2004, and became a UK top 10 best seller. Grylls writes in a way that is accessible to anyone, even those without any mountaineering knowledge. This book is a humbling read in which Bear Grylls shows his personal depth with an insight into his own personal life, family and faith.
Touching The Void is widely considered as one of the most remarkable survival stories ever told. Detailing Joe Simpson and Simon Yates 1985 expedition to Siula Grande, the book recounts the dramatic events, which turned their descent from the mountain into a horrifying ordeal for both climbers. The book has also been turned into a well-received documentary- film, however the book includes much more detail on the expedition. The book will leave you questioning what you previously considered the edge of human endurance to be.
Race To The Pole tells the story of James Cracknell and Ben Fogle’s participation in a race across Antarctica to reach the South Pole against six other teams. The race, which took place in 2009, came almost a century after the pioneering South Pole expedition of Scott and Amundsen. The book is written with narratives from both Cracknell and Fogel. This two sided story makes for a humorous read, to hear each of the men’s often entirely different interpretation of the events of the expedition, and their brutally honest opinions on each other.
In the news...
A Route-ine Change
A
pril will mark the beginning of the 2015 climbing season, and after the tragic events which happened on Mount Everest in 2014, we take a look at the notable changes climbers who are attempting to summit the world’s highest mountain face this year. Last year’s catastrophic avalanche was the worst single loss of life in expedition history. The incident, which happened on April 16th, killed 16 Sherpas and led to the guides calling off all planned expeditions up the world’s highest mountain and staging a strike of their services. The political turmoil that followed had never before been seen on this scale. Sherpas called on the Nepalese government to offer better working conditions, better pay and better compensation clauses for their services on the world’s most dangerous mountain. No climbers summated Mount Everest via the South Col after
the avalanche, and although the government insisted the mountain was not closed to climbers, the truth was Sherpas refused to assist anyone up the 8,848 meter peak. Just before the start of the 2015 climbing season, it was announced that the South Col route will be amended so climbers pass directly through the Khumbu Icefall, in an attempt to reduce the avalanche risk. The previous route through the icefall saw climbers follow the left-hand side, what is known as the West Shoulder. John Hunt, in his book The Ascent of Everest said: “No one making his way up the Khumbu glacier could define the presence of the Icefall.” Hunt’s statement, written during his time on the first ascent of Everest in 1953, emphasises the scale of the icefall and the dangers of passing through it. Alongside changing the route through the icefall, the Nepalese government have also announced
A diagram showing the difference between the old and new route up Mount Everest via the South Col.
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the introduction of regular weather forecasts to give climbing teams, the best possible chance of knowing about any changes in weather which may affect their journey. After last year’s tragedy, the cost of climbing the world’s highest mountain has increased significantly. Commercial guide teams have increased their life insurance and permit costs have also increased. Climbers who wish to stand at the highest point in the world could be this year looking to pay an estimated £40,000 for the privilege. The Nepalese government gave Sherpa families who lost a family member in the avalanche, compensation which amounted to £245 (40,000 Nepalese rupees.) A dishonourable sum in comparison to the amount of money their services bring to the Nepalese government every year, and the sheer danger of the job.
Opinion
Last year’s climbing season was devastating for those who, for many years had been preparing for their opportunity to try and grasp a few precious moments, on the peak of the highest mountain in the world. Let’s just hope the events which came in 2014 were a one off and this year’s season focuses on the pinnacle of human achievement, summiting the mountain. Mount Everest must be left available to anyone brave enough to attempt to summit her, and not the subject of political unrest or used as a hostage object between the Sherpa community and Nepalese government.
Image courtesy of Alastair Humphreys
Pole Position: Rosie Stancer
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Great God, this is an awful place.” Captain Scott’s famous words on the South Pole would be enough to put anyone off exploring one of the remotest places on earth. But not Rosie Stancer. She has already conquered the South Pole in 2004, solo, becoming the first woman ever to achieve the extraordinary feat. Now she wants to build on her previous achievements, with another world record attempt. To become the first woman to reach the North Pole solo. If she succeeds, Rosie Stancer will become the only woman ever to reach the North and South Pole’s through solo expeditions. In February, Rosie Stancer flew to Resolute Bay, Canada to acclimatise and prepare for her upcoming challenge. As the sun came up on the Arctic in March, the expedition will take place over the coming months. However, this year’s challenge isn’t the first attempt Rosie has made to reach the geographical North Pole. In 2007, she set a world record, walking
326 nautical miles across the frozen Arctic Ocean in 84 days. However she did not reach the North Pole. Due to some of the worst weather conditions ever recorded in the Arctic, Stancer was airlifted out, just short of the Pole. This year’s expedition presents new challenges from her 2007 attempt. Not only will Stancer be alone in one of the most remote places on earth. She will also have to contend with the prospect of crossing water, rather than solid ice. This expedition is very much a race against time. It could be the first and last of its kind because of the drastic impact climate change and global warming, are having on the ice formations in the Arctic. The 54-year-old will have to swim, walk and ski, in order to reach the North Pole. She must be prepared to adapt her mode of travel at any time on the expedition. She will have to haul herself and two sledges of supplies, through icy Arctic waters which would previously have been
solid ice. The British explorer will use the sun and a compass to navigate herself across miles and miles of ever changing ice formations to reach the geographical North Pole. The landscape is so changeable that at some points on the expedition, Stancer will be effectively walking back on herself and away from the Pole. She will drift off course and have to make up miles again to reach her destination. This expedition asks a lot of Rosie Stancer. Her trek to the North Pole is expected to take around 65 days. Over two months of travelling completely alone. She will be relying only on herself for motivation and depending on her own capabilities to make decisions. But with a wealth of experience in polar exploration already under her belt, and a fierce determination to finish what she effectively started back in 2007, the stage is set for Rosie Stancer to once again get her name in the exploration history book.
Journey to the top (and bottom) of the world
E
ver wondered what it takes to plan an expedition to the Arctic? Carolynn Whorton spoke to Annie Aggens, of expedition company Polar Explorers about the processes involved in organising a trip to some of the most remote places on earth, and heard how this year, the company is taking a 77-year-old to the North Pole. The North and South Poles are often considered to be inaccessible places. It’s not often you hear of someone going on holiday to the Antarctic. But Polar Explorers are a company who defy that logic; they organise trips to the Polar Regions, and make the experience accessible to almost anyone. Expedition leader Annie Aggens explained more to Outdoor Interest about the company: “We organise expeditions to the Polar Regions and that would include the North Pole, the South Pole, Greenland and a little but further south, Iceland and the South Georgia Island near Antarctica. We organise ski expeditions, dog expeditions and similar activities to these places.” Polar Explorers are based in Wilmette, USA but Aggens insists the company receive attention from much further afield: “We get a lot of interest from around the world. I’d say that the highest level of interest comes from the UK, followed by the
One of the Polar Explorers expeditions in the South Pole. Photo by Oskar Strom, courtesy of Polar Explorers.
US, China, India, the Middle East, Malaysia, and sort of then spread out all over the place.” A common misconception is that to take part in one of the expeditions, you must have experience and know a lot about Polar Regions. However Annie clarifies this couldn’t be further from the truth: “I don’t think they have to, they will certainly know a lot by the time they get there because we talk to them a lot. But a lot of people who initially contact us really don’t know what they are getting themselves in to and it’s only through conversation and going on our five
An expedition gathers around the South Pole. Photo by Dirk Jensen, courtesy of Polar Explorers.
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day training programme they learn exactly what they’re in for.” However one thing potential clients must possess in abundance, is a desire for adventure, as Annie explains: “We have North Pole flights and South Pole flights and those can accommodate people who are not very physically active, they just have to have an adventurous spirit. Everybody has to have an adventurous spirit because even if you’re flying to the North Pole and you’re not doing any skiing, you could still get stuck there because of weather for any number of days and it can turn into a real adventure so there’s nothing easy about any of these, they all require an adventurous spirit.” Annie talks through the typical routine Polar Explorers follow once someone has registered interest with the company: “Well usually we talk to them about what their goals are and why they want to do the expedition, how easy or difficult they want it to be, what their level of fitness is and what their interest in taking on a big challenge is. Then we help them select the best expedition because we have a variety of expeditions that vary
in distance, duration and difficulty, so we try to match people up with the right expedition. Or if we think they are just not on the right track at all, we would direct people to something that would be a little bit more appropriate for them. Although I have to admit that doesn’t happen that often.” Interestingly Annie reveals there is no common age group who participate in the expeditions. “It varies quite widely; I would say the most common age for people to join us is between 40 and 70.” The company have seen the extremes at both ends of the world, and also at both scales of the age spectrum, Annie explains: “We have taken people as young as five on an overnight North Pole ski expedition, with very attentive, engaged parents, and as old as mid-80s on flights. We’re taking a 77-year-old on a hard, long dog sled expedition this year. There are a lot of older people who are young at heart who are still quite physically active and capable.” Polar travel might not be something commonly considered to be an accessible trip for those of an older generation. But Polar Explorers
welcome anyone with a want for adventure and the company offer a range of trips to suit all levels of participation. The Polar Explorers team boast over 20 years of polar experience across 50 expeditions and have established a good setup for their specialised expeditions. Annie details the structure of their bases at the Poles: “We have storage in both the North and the South; so that when we get there we don’t have to be flying a tremendous amount of kit every year. We always fly some kit and some food things like that but the bulk of our stuff is in storage at the starting points of our expeditions. At least for the North and South Pole, that’s not the case for some of our expeditions where we do have to travel with quite a bit of kit.” The actual number of expeditions the company guide can vary from year to year as Annie points out: “It depends on the interest we get, usually we have between four and five North Pole expeditions every year and between one and three South Pole expeditions. Then we may have a Greenland trip or two, an Iceland trip and a South Georgia trip but really our main focus is North Pole and South Pole.” The company also boast a loyal clientele, as Annie reveals it is common for people to return and complete another expedition: “Once they do one of the Poles, often they will come back and do the other, or maybe they will want to cross Greenland. We don’t have too many trips, only about five or six, but we often get repeat clients.” The procedure for flying to the North or South Pole remains the same across all expeditions, Annie specifies: “We start off for the North from Longyearbyen, Norway, which is where most of the North Pole expeditions which go on an annual basis will depart from, for logistical reasons. At the South Pole, we generally start from Pueto Reinas,
Chile, and then we all meet and we all do a bit of last minute training and preparation, and then head out together on the charter flight to the ice.” Annie has experience as a Polar expedition leader, guiding teams to both the North and South Poles and Greenland. Her job varies and she explains how versatile her role requires her to be: “It’s very dynamic and things change frequently, in terms of just about everything. The logistics of it can be very challenging and it’s a big investment to put a team together and get them out, so you need to plan it wisely and get the right team members. Then making sure everyone is prepared and ready, then going out and executing it after working for a year and planning it. The expedition itself can often feel like the easiest part of it. But I suppose that’s only on sunny days you know when the wind is howling and the storm clouds are moving in, that would not be the case.” But for Annie, the positives far outweigh any demanding tasks the job brings. She admits her favourite part of her work is seeing people completing their expeditions: “It’s not too bad talking about the North Pole and the South Pole all day, that’s pretty fun. But it’s most satisfying doing the expeditions and meeting the people who you have been talking with. Seeing them really push themselves and enjoy themselves, and to see the satisfaction on their faces after they have completed an expedition.” Polar Explorers are one of the few companies in the world who offer an experience like this. Their returning clients and interest from around the world are testament to the popularity of the experiences they offer. In an age where day-to-day adventure is often lacking in people’s lives, a chance to explore some of the most remote places on earth is enough to stir the desire for adventure in anyone.