IN THIS ISSUE 1
Our Team
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Noah Marion
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Letter from the Editor
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Evolution of First Ladies
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Editor’s Obsessions
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Into the Future and Back
7
Favorite Decades
32 Decades
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Vintage Directory
Three “conversation pins” (snail, poodle, rooster) for Rice-Weiner & Co. 1950 Gold-toned metal Images courtesy of Harry Ransom Center
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of Fashion
Time Gone By
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OUR TEAM CHELSEA DUNIVAN Editor-in-Chief
JONATHAN OCHART Head of Writing
ELIZABETH JONES Head of Public Relations
JARIE MALDONADO Head of Production
EDUARDO CAMACHO Graphic Design
Public Relations
Editorial
Production
Madison Edgar Kristen Raines
Taylor Prewitt Rachel Solomon Tyler Kilby Tyler Neal
Ronit Joselevitz Samantha McClendon Rebekah Camp
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR What I love most about vintage clothing is that every piece has its own story – a history typically unknown to the new wearer. Upon purchasing a vintage piece, the options of its mysterious past are unlimited. Did this dress perch in the front seat of a 1950s convertible for a drive-in movie? Did this wool coat survive a brutal Scottish winter? Who knows – which is precisely what makes wearing, and shopping for, vintage clothing so unique. Anyone who has lived in Austin for even a short period of time will tell you that there are many perks to living in this city. Plenty of music festivals are sprinkled throughout the year, there are outdoor activities galore and there are an insane amount of coffee options outside of your typical Starbucks drive-thru. But, one of my favorite aspects about Austin lies in its plethora of options for the vintage lover. Whether you decide to take a stroll down South Congress to lose yourself in one of the well-renowned shops, grab up a counter culture piece from American Icon’s eBay site, or follow Hunt.gather.style as they pop up their shop in various boutiques around town, you are sure to find an array of options to fulfill your every vintage desire. We hope you enjoy reading about the various trendsetters we have chosen to feature this month just as much as we enjoyed speaking with and learning about them.
Chelsea Dunivan
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EDITOR’S
obsessions
LACE ROMANCE
Lace, an ancient fabric rich in history, is revamped for the winter months in atypical colors, cuts and with a little more edge.
Chelsea Dunivan
I love lace in a bright color for winter – it’s completely unexpected!
A long sleeve lace top is so fun with a little arm candy.
Peter Pan collar + lace = my dream come true.
Scarves are a must when walking between classes during colder months. Why not add a fun bit of lace while you’re at it?
Lace is toughened up in a black color paired with a chambray and chunky bracelets.
You can afford to wear a tad more risqué cut on a sweet lace dress. Pair with tights and booties for the perfect winter party outfit.
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editor’s obsessions LEATHER X INFINITY
Jonathan Ochart
If I had to choose only one material to wear this season, I’d happily choose leather. Well, I’m not into wearing leather pants, but the edgy material combines fashion with utility seamlessly. Rocking that rebellious “don’t-mess-with-me” look while keeping warm packs a two-in-one punch screaming with style. Throwing in some studs adds extra flair with a powerful personality.
I worship a well-crafted Versace jacket. Studs located in all the right places create a symmetrical look balancing the asymmetrical piece. Versace’s masterpiece amped up the ‘50s greaser look by injecting it with leather’s favorite additives: studs and more studs. I’m addicted.
Burberry Prorsum took basic leather gloves on one crazy trip, leaving them studded to perfection. Talk about style with an iron fist - warm hands included. Christian Louboutin knows stilettos, and apparently men’s loafers as well. Gold and silver studs provide a dynamically colorful twist, and while the shoes lack tall, sharp heels, they possess an equally vicious step. Opting for a revolutionary bowtie such as this will not only turn heads at parties, but add a new perspective to the meaning of formal wear. Dress it up or down for a night on the town. It’s versatility at its best.
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Every man needs some sort of bag to carry daily essentials, and this medium leather holdall by Balenciaga augments an edgy look without detracting attention from your ensemble. The designer placed studs and zippers in just the right places.
editor’s obsessions
Elizabeth Jones
AUDREY HEPBURN My latest obsession has been Audrey Hepburn’s look from the movie Funny Face. I love how Audrey does the all black look, it’s so simple, yet so feminine! I’ve been on the hunt for a black cuffed pant in order to recreate this look for the fall months.
Luckily, I already have a staple top like this in my closet! Jet Pocket tapered pants-I’ve been looking high and low for these type of pants, and have yet to find a pair that fall right on my ankles!
I love these flats by Charlotte Olympia! Statement flats are my new favorite thing!
Though I love the all black look, I think a bright scarf adds a fresh pop of color.
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editor’s obsessions LIVING WITH ROY LICHTENSTEIN
Jarie Maldonado
For those that know me well, they know that my favorite wardrobe staple is black. Typically during the winter I’ll have much darker make-up, but not this time around. I love the pop-art colors that are emerging this season. Wearing a bold blue eye shadow can be intimidating to most, but not for me. Pat McGrath did an amazing job at highlighting the eyes for Prada fall 2012. It was completely black with the eyebrows being outlined by different hues of color. It worked really well with the collection and it can be recreated, to an extent of course.
Not only is the color very vibrant in the picture, but it also compliments my skin tone in real life. I have an emotional connection to the brand as I grew up with my mother having it in her purse.
I remember the Chanel Byzantine collection had something similar to this makeup look, instead of it being blue it was a red stripe. I also really like how quirky the look is without being overbearing. What better man to tell you what to wear this season than Tom Ford. He eludes a very elegant woman with an edge and this palette encompasses the light and the dark of the blues and it will be very fun to play with.
She is a true master in makeup!
The collection was impeccable, but I will always remember that makeup, who is to say that I won’t try it soon!
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WINTER “My favorite era of fashion is now! On any given day I can choose a drop waist dress to feel like a 1920s flapper, a nipped in style with a full skirt for a put together 50s look or a long skirt to feel like a 1960s bohemian. Every style is at your fingertips these days, which makes dressing up every day so fun.”
Every decade brings its own set of fashion rules and creative ways to drape the body. This issue, in celebration of our vintage issue, we asked our staff which era of fashion is their favorite and why.
“Although it may seem cliche and overused, the 1920s are my favorite era. There’s a reason everyone loves it! The fashion is so decadent and ornate. I love all the glitz and glamour. It’s very well put together and stunning unlike some of what people wear today.” - K. Raines
- C. Dunivan
“I have a hard time picking between the 1920s and the 1960s. I love everything about the 1920s and my hero Coco Chanel was an emerging major force during this time. The 1960s had incredible colors, fabulous hairdos and you can see the emerging power of women start to be expressed in their clothing styles: just love it!” - M. Edgar
“Throw me in a time machine and I’d dial 1970 so I can relive the decade infamous for mountains of polyester, wide-lapelled button-ups and gold chains. Sue me for loving the kitschy three-piece suits, rhinestone-infested tops and velvet pants; I wouldn’t mind catching disco fever and dealing with its symptoms. Silk, satin, rayon, polyester, bell-bottoms, flared jeans, western shirts and Farrah Fawcett-esque dos seem like too much fun to pass up for any other decade.” - J. Ochart
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favorite decades
“My favorite era of fashion is the 70s! I love the Donna Summer look: big hair, bold colors, shimmery dresses, sky-high heels, everything was fabulous!”
“I love the sleek and feminine looks found in the 30s!”
- E. Jones
- R. Solomon
“I would most like to visit the twenties (especially in Paris!). I admire the decadence and ridiculous glamour of the era and would love to attend an infamous Jay Gatsby party.”
“My favorite decade has to be the 1950s. Most likely stemming from watching Mad Men, I love the clean-cut, classic styles and slicked back ‘dos of men’s fashion in this era.”
- T. Prewitt
- T. Kilby
“My favorite decade is the 90s because its all about grunginess and messiness, something that I like to incorporate into my wardrobe these days.” - R. Joselevitz
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favorite decades
“My favorite decade for fashion is the 90s. I love the grungier aesthetic that we saw in the 90s. I try to recreate a lot of looks from this decade by rocking denim, leather, oversized button downs and combat boots.” - T. Neal
“My favorite decade is the 60’s because of two things: Edie Sedgwick and The Doors. I have had this obsession with Edie since watching Factory Girl, not only because she was beautiful, but because she was so tainted and it reflected on her style. She was almost like a really rough Twiggy and she was a beautiful muse. I absolutely love The Doors. Jim Morrison in his leather pants and fur jackets reflected a much darker side to fashion and the music is fantastic to listen to even to this day. The 60s counterculture must have been one hell of a ride.” - J. Maldonado
“My favorite era of fashion has to be the 1940s. From the peplum tops to the pencil skirts, the era was full of class. I also adore the Hollywood glam present during this time – the styles of Rita Hayworth and Jean Harlow are a few to thank for this.” - B. Camp
“My style is ever evolving with each season, but two of the decades that I always draw inspiration from in my wardrobe are the late 1960s and the 1980’s. I love the juxtaposition of the bohemian free spirit of the hippie era and the hard rock culture of the eighties. Combining tough and feminine pieces is a signature style in my wardrobe, and I continuously hunt for vintage finds - S. McClendon from these decades to add to my collection.”
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Vintage DIRECTORY After searching the city high and low, we picked some of our favorite vintage shops. Here are the ones that made the cut!
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FROCK ON VINTAGE 3016 Guadalupe St. Austin, Texas 78705
Hosting a weekly pearl snap shirt sale as well as the occasional Free Glitz & Glam Happy Hour, this infant store (barely one-year-old) has already gained a following among Austinites. Well-organized shelves and racks are well stocked with handpicked ‘70s-esque prints and ‘50s-style dresses. Worn-in shoes and boots galore line the store; their arrangements almost seem like decorations. In addition to various finds, Frock On Vintage provides professional in-store alterations sometimes necessary when purchasing vintage items.
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Room Service Vintage
107 N Loop Boulevard East Austin, TX 78751
Located on North Loop, the nearly 28-year-old store is vintage itself. Boasting deco, kitsch, mod, pop, Mediterranean, Hollywood Regency and Danish style finds, the shop caters particularly to vintage apartment goods and aims to please the decadent designer. Upon entering, a myriad of lamps light the cluttered path scattered with knick-knacks. Mismatched silverware, scarves and delicate vintage Playboy issues (“Please be gentle� sign included) are strung about the store. Though the shop errs on the cluttered side, Room Service Vintage heralds quirky choices, clothing aside.
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Charm School Vintage
2109 E Cesar Chavez St Austin, TX 78702
Charm School Vintage is a unique vintage shop in its involvement with local photographers. Housed in the chic Maison d’Etoile (a collaborative abode containing several shops), the store often works with Austin talents, such as Shayne Stroud, to shoot look books featuring their clothing. Their clothes appear as breezy, fun and youthful as the shoots that frame them. The Cesar Chavez shop is equally as inviting with an earthy, natural ambience - the occasional plant or animal skull can be found between clothing items. The highly stylized vintage picks are perfect for the amateur vintage lover who can sometimes be overwhelmed by junky thrift shops.
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Ermine Vintage
106 N Loop Boulevard East Austin, TX 78751
Also hailing from North Loop, Ermine Vintage began as an Austin-based Etsy shop and has now flourished as a brick and mortar store. Ermine occasionally offers outlandish or thrift shop-like clothes, making a shopping adventure here an alluring and fulfilling enterprise. Clothes are arranged by size, pleasing customers often discouraged by tricky vintage sizes. The prices are just as practical and charm fans that frequent the shop.
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Blue Velvet 217 West North Loop Boulevard Austin, TX 78751
A healthy balance exists at Blue Velvet Vintage, where pieces one might find at upscale vintage boutiques mingle with treasured thrift shop finds at reasonable prices. The selection is admirable as well, suiting men and women alike. Voted “Best Vintage Store� several times by Austinites in the Austin-American Statesman and the Austin Chronicle Readers Poll, the shop pleases crowds with arrays of petticoats and retro accessories.
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NOAH MARION BY: TYLER KILBY
In recent years, vintage clothing has become a popular concept in the fashion industry. Whether a runway collection takes cues from past decades, a small boutique specializes in past looks, or a bag in the back of an old relative’s closet turns out to be an heirloom, vintage items constantly appear. However, they can also be created depending on how an owner treats his or her clothing and accessories. Noah Marion, a University of Texas at Austin alumnus and the creative mind behind Noah Marion Quality Goods, believes the vintage market is built on quality, not just a piece’s age. Strolling down South Congress, I began to wonder why I parked so far away from Jo’s, the coffee shop Marion and I agreed to meet at. Needless to say, .19 miles is not as short of a distance as Siri made it seem. I finally found Marion among the crowd in front of Jo’s, and we found our way to a booth, black iced coffees in hand. “Thanks for meeting with me this morning,” I said. “I’ve never been to this place before. Three years living in Austin and just now exploring.” “Thanks for asking me,” Marion said as he doctored his coffee and slid some rounded frames on, preparing for the sun. Marion wore a clean, white button-up and jeans—a simple yet classic look and fashion world staple. Just by looking at his outfit, I knew that I chose the right person to have a conversation about vintage items with—he exudes the term “classic.” He talks about
how when he was younger, his family would shop at Goodwill, a vintage shopper’s Mecca nowadays. However, even as his family began to make more money and bought name brands, being the youngest of three brothers meant receiving lots of hand-medowns. “There was no such thing as a vintage store,” Marion said. “That didn’t exist.” Even though buying vintage was not necessarily something Marion did purposely, it became an inherent part of his style even to this day. Marion pointed out his frugality, and even finds himself returning to Goodwill. When asked what he thought about the dichotomy between vintage shoppers who sift through Goodwill racks and shoppers who frequent actual vintage boutiques, he pointed out that he, “[doesn’t] really think vintage has to be defined as something that is 20 years or older—if it has been used, to me that is vintage.”
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“Even Old Navy is like ‘come buy our vintage cargo shorts! That’s not vintage, [they] just messed up a pair of ugly cargo shorts and now they’re even uglier.” -Marion For Marion, vintage requires more than just age - it requires a used and rugged look. Even then, the physical aesthetic must be genuine and not forced, according to the local designer. “Even Old Navy is like ‘come buy our vintage cargo shorts!’” Marion said. “That’s not vintage, [they] just messed up a pair of ugly cargo shorts and now they’re even uglier,” Marion added with a laugh. The fact that this man’s standard of excellence and quality is something to be valued quickly manifests. For Marion, vintage does not necessarily mean torn jeans or a bag’s peeling lining, but about the years between the product’s original state and its
current condition. Simply mass producing products that look like they have been through years of physical use is not the same as a product that has actually stood the test of time and taken beatings for years. “Is there a brand out there that has this level of quality you look for?” I asked, anxious to see what brand he would grace with his approval. Without skipping a beat, Marion answered with: “Louis Vuitton…there is an inherent vintage quality for Louis Vuitton, that’s the whole point of it. That’s the reason Louis Vuitton is who they are today—because they started making a good product that was meant to get better with age.” It is this same quality that Marion seeks when creating his own products at Noah Marion Quality Goods. With a catalog full of bags, wallets, iPad carriers and bracelets, one thing ties everything together—leather. Marion’s products are all made of leather, because he believes leather is one of the most responsive materials available. When it comes to creating a product, Marion, “[wants] to give people an heirloom quality product—something [they] would find lying under your grandpa’s bookshelf.” Although his products are shipped in pristine
condition, arriving as almost-white leather, he pleas his customers to “Please, fuck it up. Throw it around. Beat it up. That’s the point.” Marion cannot wait to see his products in 20 years when they would be classified as vintage, but he made it clear that in order for a product to truly look vintage, it must be used, overstuffed, thrown around and borderline abused by its owners. In his opinion, leather products are comparable to styling clothes in the sense that “[you], as the person, make the fit.” In the eyes of a man whose products could provide the next generation of vintage goods, it is not about the end product, but the journey it took to get there. Sure, vintage styles can be massproduced for the general population, but Marion offers a product with deeper substance. Noah Marion Quality Goods exceeds simple retail service, striving to “give [customers] an experience instead of just giving them a product.” By the time the interview concluded, some piece around the world may have been overstuffed, thrown around and borderline abused, leaving its pristine condition behind to enter vintage heaven. And Marion would praise that.
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THE EVOLUTION OF FIRST LADY STYLE By: Rachel Solomon
Each presidential election brings along a series of debates, events, speeches and a fair amount of controversy. At each election season’s conclusion, one candidate assumes the responsibility of acting as the commander in chief of the United States of America for the next four years. While “behind every great man is a great woman” has been said many times before, this phrase takes on a new level of importance when referencing first ladies. Not only do American first ladies act as a source of moral and political support for their husbands, but they also act as role models for American women of all ages. And, of course, behind every great role model is a great sense of fashion (or at least, one would hope). Take a look at some iconic first ladies from the past and present for a diplomatic approach to personal style:
DOLLEY MADISON
Husband: James Madison Years in White House: 1809 – 1817 Dolley Madison was raised in a conservative Quaker family. Upon entering the White House and shedding her Quaker past and identity, she began straying away from modest clothes and face-covering bonnets that pervaded her previous life. Rather than using fashion to deflect attention from her, she began wearing the most current styles of her time, including sometimes controversial low-cut dresses.
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MARY LINCOLN Husband: Abraham Lincoln Years in White House: 1861 – 1865 Americans know Mary Lincoln for wearing extravagant ball gowns complete with long trains and no shoulders. In fact, her own husband once said she needed “a little less tail and a little more neck.” Though the first lady liked to keep things simple around the neck, President Lincoln would have appreciated more attention to her face. Mary Lincoln was also seen wearing head dresses made of roses on multiple occasions, perhaps in response to her husband’s desire for more extravagance around the neck.
FRANCES CLEVELAND Husband: Grover Cleveland Years in White House: 1886 – 1889 and 1893 – 1897 As a young mother of three daughters, Frances Cleveland quickly assumed a role model title for American women. Ladies from all walks of life jumped at any opportunity to mimic her style. She wore many gowns that exposed her bare neck, shoulders and arms. Such revealing clothing worried the Women’s Christian Temperance Union and prompted them to draw up a petition asking the first lady to stop wearing such revealing dresses because it served as a bad example for her young admirers. Her style played such a significant role in American culture that two reporters in need of a breaking-news article fabricated a story claiming that Mrs. Cleveland no longer liked the bustle, which was a framework that provided support for drapery at the beck of a dress. The article contributed to her status as a trendsetter, considering her a factor in the bustle dress’s demise.
EDITH WILSON Husband: Woodrow Wilson Years in White House: 1915 – 1921 Edith Wilson equated the first lady role to a form of Yankee royalty. She wished to maintain this “royalty” status, especially when in the presence of English, Italian and Belgian royal family members. Her regal sense of style had a political motivation as well as an aesthetic one: she wanted to assert that the U.S. was on an equal playing field with Old World powers. Rather than purely focusing on acting as a role model for American women like many first ladies before her, Wilson took a more global perspective and drew inspiration from European royal families. As a result, she frequently sported outfits showcasing furs, deep colors and extravagant yet sophisticated dresses.
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JACQUELINE KENNEDY Husband: John F. Kennedy Years in White House: 1961 – 1963 Jacqueline Kennedy famously wore a leopard coat that set off a trend that may have contributed to depleting of the world’s leopard population. She was far from ordinary when it came to her sense of style. Check out a few key pieces she wore during her time as first lady: Apricot Silk Ziberline Dress: Kennedy wore this sleeveless dress for a daytime boat ride in India. She paired it with a three-quarter sleeved matching coat of an equally intensely saturated color to ensure her visibility for the crowd of people watching her barge arrive at Udaipur’s White Palace.
Celadon Sil Jersey Dress: This draped evening dress debuted at a White House dinner to honor Nobel Prize Laureates of the Western Hemisphere.
Pink & Gold Evening Dress: Kennedy showcased yet another bold, yet elegant sleeveless dress with a hot pink organza bodice at a performance of Mr. President at the National Theater. The fabric was given to her by King Saud of Saudi Arabia.
From conservative to controversial and everything between, the first ladies of the past made a point to showcase their personal style. As times changed, so did clothing trends and American first ladies seldom fell behind. Their fashion choices evolved from extravagant to revealing to regal to trendy, while always maintaining an air of elegance.
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Into the Future and Back: Norman Bel Geddes’ Visionary Fashion from Decades Past By Jonathan Ochart
Vandamm Studio, “Travel Smartly in Tweed” window display for Franklin Simon, ca. 1929 Image courtesy of the Edith Lutyens and Norman Bel Geddes Foundation / Harry Ransom Center
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The Harry Ransom Center’s exhibition I Have Seen the Future: Norman Bel Geddes Designs America. Photo by Pete Smith. Images courtesy of Harry Ransom Center.
magine discovering a 1920s piece considered futuristic by societal standards in its heyday, and calling it vintage today. Interesting phenomenon, no? Now, imagine that a theatrical and industrial designer responsible for streamlining technological products, crafting stage sets, urban planning and even foreshadowing the United States’ interstate highway system produced this “vintage” item. Whether devising shop window displays on New York’s Fifth Avenue or concocting novel costume jewelry, Norman Bel Geddes (1893-1958) fiddled with fashion-related projects throughout his monumental career. In addition to transporting the United States into the future with dynamic industrial and theatrical designs, he left an impressionable mark on fashion as well. By injecting his inventive spirit into fashion experiments, he revolutionized the artistic realm permanently. Thanks to the Harry Ransom Center’s “I Have Seen the Future: Norman Bel Geddes Designs America” exhibit launched on Sept. 11, 2012, visitors can learn about Geddes’ window displays and jewelry pieces in person. Helen Baer, associate curator of performing arts at the Harry Ransom Center, says the exhibit differs from others by covering Geddes’ entire career rather than solely focusing on his industrial or theater work. In effect, visitors can see how the inventor’s earlier projects impacted his later efforts. Amid 300 items included in the exhibition, from mock theater sets to streamline ocean liner models to video projections, guests can witness some
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of Geddes’ fashion projects as well. “What I like most about Geddes’ fashion work is that he recognized that the attractiveness of the presentation was as important as the quality of the products,” Baer said. “He was a first-rate promoter of his work and his clients’ products. For example, in 1929, he designed shop window displays and mannequins for the Franklin Simon department store on Fifth Avenue in New York.” “His design for mannequin heads is beautifully rendered,” Baer added. “It’s one of my favorite items in the exhibit. Who wouldn’t be drawn to a hat displayed on those mannequins?” Geddes’ 1929 “Travel Smartly in Tweed” window display for Franklin Simon & Co. resonates with the visionary’s artistic splendor. Capitalizing on his theater set composition skills, Geddes enhanced the tweed coat’s inherently smart Roaring ‘20s persona by manipulating light and meticulously arranging props. Rather than creating a simple window display, Geddes transformed the area into a space suitable enough for a theatrical performance - one where fashion stood in the limelight. Cascading suitcases and an umbrella perched against a metallic structure play supporting roles while the coat plays prima donna. Several other photographs of Geddes’ window displays share the same wall as the “Travel Smartly in Tweed” piece. Although smaller in size, the photograph of his 1927 Agnes turban and scarf display for the same retailer proves equally enthralling. In the center of the display, passerby found a metal bust with an Agnes turban atop its head partnered with a vermillion and chartreuse green scarf.
A handbag, also in chartreuse, lay nearby. Geddes installed triangular shapes jutting from the ground to flank the accessories, or “actors,” as he called them. Coupling the shapes with hidden spotlights generated yet another mystically theatrical ambience - the visionary’s expertise brought otherwise inanimate accessories to life. After examining Geddes’ works fit for Fifth Avenue, visitors can view three “conversation” pins he conceived for Rice-Weiner & Co. in 1950. The gold-toned metal pieces in the shape of a snail, poodle and rooster boast a “flow-motion” design mirroring Geddes’ streamlined industrial work. Incorporating industrial concepts into the bright accessories resulted in a mesmerizing hybrid of simple and smooth pieces boasting exuberant personalities. For example, the poodle pin, though simple in nature, barks briskly thanks to its triangle-shaped hair and upright tail. According to Baer, the Harry Ransom Center began planning the exhibition in 2008. She noted that while the exhibit contains 300 items from 50 different projects Geddes worked on, they only represent a minute segment of the designer’s archive. “There are over 400 projects in the collection, which is large relative to other collections at the Harry Ransom Center,” the curator said. “While the Ransom Center takes the opportunity to share its collections in exhibitions on our first floor, all of our collections are also accessible for research in our Reading and
Viewings Rooms on the second floor. For me, it is very gratifying when visitors who enjoyed the exhibition follow up later with a research visit.” The exhibit runs until Jan. 6, 2013, and is open to the public, free of charge. Since the exhibition’s closure is soon approaching, make sure to stop by and peruse the collection. Witnessing a visionary’s work that influenced the United States’ fabric stimulates the forward thinker’s soul. Futuristic “vintage” finds make the ride even more stimulating and dashing.
Norman Bel Geddes costume design for Gypsy Woman in The Miracle Image courtesy of the Edith Lutyens and Norman Bel Geddes Foundation / Harry Ransom Center
Francis Bruguière, Divine Comedy Model with Lighting and Figures, 1924 Image courtesy of the Edith Lutyens and Norman Bel Geddes Foundation / Harry Ransom Center
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DECADES OF FASHION By: Ronit Joselevitz, Samantha McClendon and Becky Camp
1920s
In an era characterized with opulence and glamour, the 1920’s sparked a new horizon in fashion. The styles of this time period embodied drop-waist silhouettes, beaded and fringed embellishments, and art deco inspired adornments. Recently, trends on the runway have taken us back to Great Gatsby inspired styles with a modern take on the flapper that can be incorporated into everyday wardrobes or can be worn for seasonal parties. Beaded motifs, metallics, and art-deco accessories are essential additions in holiday wardrobes.
1920s women in the new flapper fashions
Cody Half D’orsay – 3.1 Phillip Lim $595
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Art-Deco Earring – Lulu Frost $107
Avenue Necklace Thea Grant Jefferson $229
Art-Deco Embellished Dress Issa London $2073
Art-Deco Earring Lulu Frost $107
Silk-Georgette Dress Gucci $9796
Tassle Bead Shell Top Topshop $100 Black & Gold Beaded Blouse – Topshop $104
Fitzgerald Fringe Silk-Crepe Skirt $345 Dotted Open Cage Purse Anndra Neen $650
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1930s
With backs exposed and full bias skirts, evening gowns from the 1930s have continued to inspire designs seen in Haute Couture houses today.
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1940s
The world was at War during most of the 1940s, which meant resources were restricted everywhere. From around 1939-1945 designers stopped designing. The government even set limits on how much nylon, wool and other materials women could purchase to make her clothing. So, women had to adapt and get creative during most of this time. Popular trends during this time consisted of knee length coats, floral dresses, pencil skirts, thick heeled shoes, and the hair scarf. In addition, people started to find inspiration in the utilitarian design of men’s suiting, bringing about a more masculine style for women. Also, during this time Hollywood glam was inspiration for style among women. Jean Harlow, Joan Crawford, and Marlene Dietrich were fashion icons during this time.
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1950s
During the 1950s, women were inspired by the rock n’ roll craze, as well as movie screen goddesses Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly. Full skirts in bright colors became more popular, and pants were pinched at the waist to emphasize waist and bust. Some other popular trends at this time were ‘Capri pants’, pencil skirts, short ankle socks, cropped cardigans, and scarves tide around the neck. Another popular trend that is still prevalent today is the rise of the stiletto-heeled shoe.
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1960s
Mod, geometric shapes and mini lengths revolutionized the 1960’s with futuristic fashions. Inspired versions of the shift dress and the capri pant are pieces from this era that have transcended into the modern woman’s everyday wardrobe. Many designers are referencing key trends of the sixties by utilizing bold prints, color blocking, and boxy silhouettes on the runway.
Fluro Boucle Skirt Topshop $80
Baroque Round Sunglasses Prada $290
Emerald Plastic Earrings Marni $360
Darcey High Neck Mini Dress Alice + Olivia $297
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Color Block Silk Top Sonia by Sonia Rykiel $460
Collection Café Capri J.Crew $398
Sequined-front Crepe Mini Dress - $3410
Square Neck Jacket 3.1 Phillip Lim $839
1970s
David Bowie’s bright colors and structured suits capture the decade that was inspired by Saturday Night Fever
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High-waisted flared trousers in bright colors paired with placket shirts were a must have of the 1970s.
Diane Von Furstenberg’s debut of her classic jersey wrap around dress began in the 1970s
Flared denim paired with Nikes toned down the 1970s polyester craze.
Ralph Lauren’s wide tie made famous by Annie Hall captures the structure seen in 1970s garments
A modern take on Annie Hall
A looser version of the original Annie Hall Ralph Lauren outfit
Felt Hat, ASOS, $22
Jacket, JBrand, $260
1980s
The 1980s are often given much ridicule over having terrible fashion trends; however, most of them can be seen still in our generation. So, the era couldn’t have been that bad! It was full of shoulder pads, mini-skirts, huge earrings and Member’s Only jackets. Some other big trends in this era is the rise of brightly colored leggings, one size fits all clothing, and oversized tops. Where would American Apparel be without the 80s? Also, spandex, neon, and animal prints were in high demand. Suit coats, pastels, and floral can also seen worn by many young adults. Lastly, one must not forget the rise of jelly shoes.
Chuck Taylor All Star - $34.99
Madewell Charade Blazer - $94.50
Floral Chiffon Oversized Button Up - $58.00
American Apparel Leggings – Winter Leggings $38.00
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1990s
Spice girls inspired the fashions of the 1990s, with strappy dresses and cut off shirts.
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A mod look with Agness Deyn that evokes 90s grunge with Doc Martens.
The 90s were all about loose fitting band t-shirts, flannels, and maxis.
Short plaid skirts paired with knits and tights summarizes what just about every 90s girl wore.
A mod look with Agness Deyn, that evokes 90s grunge with Doc Martens and an oversized jacket.
Drew Barrymore, a poster child for the 1990s messy lifestyle.
Kate Moss for Calvin Klein, it’s all about the cropped knits and midriff exposure.
Marc Jacobs and Isabel Marant sneaks of 2012 take us back to the original Nike Air One’s that every child had.
Dr. Martens, $130
2000s
The new millennium sanctioned a minimalist fusion of previous styles to form a distinct look for the 21st century. Crop tops, low-rise flare jeans, and oversized accessories emphasize the staple trends brought on by the new generation. Though many styles from our most recent decade have faded, characteristic components of the aughties wardrobe still continue in fashion today. Errand Skirt GVGV $245 Mesh Chain Choker Topshop $45.00
Basic Cropped Tee Topshop $16.00 Fringed Knit Poncho Missoni $370
Albercerque Cut-Off KSUBI $279
Gold Rush Jean Jacket Madewell $118
Monogram Speedy 30 Handbag Louis Vuitton $790
Oversized Sunglasses Gucci $245
Suede Pointed-Toe Pump Manolo Blahnik $595
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Time Gone By Reminiscing your grandfather’s past with chunky jacquard sweaters and a tobacco pipe
Photography by Becton Morgan Styling by Ronit Joselevitz and Samantha McClendon Assistant Coordinating by Becky Camp
Dress, Room Service. Sweater, Stylist’s own. Accessories, Frock On Vintage.
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A loose patterned cardigan over a tight leather skirt adds dimension.
Top, Frock on Vintage. Sweater, Frock on Vintage. Leather skirt, Charm School Vintage. Accessories, Frock On Vintage.
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There’s no such thing as too much layering. A patterned collar peeks through a loose crimson sweater and heather gray cardigan, paired with trousers and high socks.
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Trousers, Charm School Vintage. Collared shirt, Frock On Vintage. Red sweater, Stylist’s own. Cardigan, Room Service. Shoes/socks, Stylist’s own. Accessories, Frock On Vintage.
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Mixing patterns and textures makes way for a dynamic look.
Shirt, sweater and skirt, Room Service. Accessories, Frock On Vintage.
Sweater, Frock On Vintage. Cardigan, Room Service. Blue skirt, Stylist’s own. Accessories, Frock On Vintage.
A nostalgic Bill Cosby meets Mr. Rogers look with a loose cardigan over a thick knitted jacquard sweater.
CREDITS Charm School Vintage Room Service Frock On Vintage Noah Marion Helen Baer, Associate Curator of Performing Arts at the Harry Ransom Center Alicia Dietrich, Public Affairs Representative at the Harry Ransom Center Come hang out with us and celebrate our issue release at Frock On Vintage on November 30, 2012 from 6:00-8:00 pm!