Beyond the models that wear the “looks” comes the people behind the “looks.” The same crazy phenomenon where racial diversity was greatly established on the runway for models back in the day was the same for fashion designers. African-American fashion designers were more prevalent back in the 70s and 80s compared to today. This goes to show what is happening on the runway is a true reflection of what the industry is structured like outside of the runway. For instance, although Kanye West is a big household name for his recent clothing line, he was already established and popular for his music. Stack his fashion line next to designers such as Ralph Lauren, Vivienne Westwood, Diane Von Furstenberg, Calvin Klein, and Marc Jacobs, and is a minority among fashion designers. Ask people who Willi Smith, Russell Simmons, Patrick Kelly and Stephen Burrows are and most will stand scratching their head. Willi Smith, Patrick Kelly, and Stephen Burrows were some of the top fashion designers back in the day! These are designers are all of color, and almost all their names are unrecognizable to greater society. According to a New York Times article, Fashion’s Racial Divide, back in 2012, Michelle Obama had worn a dress made by Tracy Reese at the Democratic National Convention. Up until that point, Tracy Reese was an African-American fashion designer unknown
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to most customers. She gained monumental fame the second the First Lady put on her dress. Reese, whose clothing line can be seen at retailers such as Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom, made a statement in a NYT article that she has felt the challenges that comes with being an African-American designer. In the article, she said, “My parents always said, ‘You’re going to have to work twice as hard as a white person, so be prepared.’ It didn’t hurt my feelings.” Reese was made aware of the certain circumstances, so she worked hard to establish herself in the fashion industry. Fastforward to earlier this year at New York Fashion Week, where out of 260 shows that were presented, less than a handful of those designers were African-American. Furthermore, according to the same New York Times article, an estimated 12 out of 240 African-American fashion designers are affiliates with the Council of Fashion Designers of America. This astounding information displays the lack of ethnic diversity in fashion amongst people who are striving to make a name for themselves but are at a disadvantage based on their race. What should define a model on the runway is the way they walk the catwalk and what should define a designer outside of the runway is the way they craft their clothing. The change must start now to educate everyone that skin color is not a skill or talent, just a way of being. ■