30 WHAT’S ON
www.southwarknews.co.uk/food
Southwark News, Thursday November 24 2016
food & drink
New nights at Norris & Knight NORRIS & KNIGHT 118 FOREST HILL ROAD, EAST DULWICH, SE22 0RS 0203 663 2659
NORRIS & KNIGHT have been running as a daytime cafe, much admired by its regulars, for some time now but in recent times have branched out into being an evening tapas bar on Friday and Saturdays which is already creating a stir on social media, writes Michael Holland...
I met Julia there on a cold, damp Saturday after she had been cold and damp all afternoon watching her cold, damp football team get beaten by a hot winner, so she was very ready for the Tarima Monastrell, a Spanish red that was full of warmth, and had Christmassy flavours like plum and clove underlying the fruity berry aromas coming from the glass. A bowl of Gordal Olives were set between us for sharing; huge, green beasts bursting with flavours from the marinade ranging from anchovy, chilli, herbs and the sea, and just perfect for chatting football (My team won with a late winner), offspring, fundraising, research and people she professes not to like. With the wine, the olives and being placed at a window that was also next to a radiator things were warming up nicely. Norris & Knight is rather a bijou place with quite a few people crammed in although without anyone being uncomfortable. There is some music playing but it is inconsequential to what is going on as this is a place where people come to talk, to discuss, to catch up with friends. The staff flit about with plates and bottles quietly and effectively between the tables and the light hum of conversation. After a while a Fried Goat’s Cheese with Chargrilled Courgette, Almonds and Honey was placed on the table and looked quite amazing on its bed of leaf. When cutting into it the knife found a crisp exterior of sourdough breadcrumbs and caramelised honey but quickly eased its way through to sink into the soft, creamy cheese inside. It was a winner. While I heard where my meagre donation to Julia’s crowdfunding project was going a plate of Escalavida was laid before us: Catalan style roasted vegetables, a colourful melange of tender
vegetables laying like sated bodies on the lightly toasted bread. Yes, you could pull out the individual tastes, but it was the way the vegetables had infused with each other so well that the whole dish screamed Spain! By now there was just one table for two left vacant, plus all outside seating rendered unusable by the weather. The music, the gentle chatter and the general notes of a
small cafe like the Escalavida melded into one agreeable sound. Next to be served was Morcilla Iberico, delicious little sandcastles of Spanish black pudding with fried quails’ eggs on top. The pork, mixed with rice, was succulent and the accompanying Piquillo Peppers made this the outstanding dish of the evening. I would have liked my eggs with the yolk a little runny, but I’m
guessing that we had them served the traditional way. There was only dish left to complete our night at Norris & Knight and Carlos, our host for the evening, lured me straight in with his recommendation of Salted Caramel Chocolate Fudge Brownie with Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream that the menu said was made with eggs from their own chickens. The Brownie was okay but the ice cream had something extra that lifted it above anything shop bought. Julia, saying that she always had a chocolate dessert, wanted to try something different so chose the Affogato - a simple dessert of ice cream in a shot of fresh espresso. Alas, its newness to my companion meant she began eating the ice cream and drinking the coffee separately until she realised that every customer was looking at her aghast and inwardly tutting. ‘You need to pour the coffee over the ice cream, Dear,’ advised a kindly lady on the next table.
‘Hmm,’ she said, ‘That’s much better now!’ The Norris & Knight new venture already looks like a success so I think there may be more tapas nights added to the two they do now.
THE DAMAGE
Olives Wine x 2 Morcilla Iberico Escalavida Goats’ Cheese Affogato Chocolate Brownie
TOTAL
FOOD (1-5) VALUE (1-5) AMBIENCE (1-5) DISABLED ACCESS DISABLED TOILET BOOKING
£3.00 £9.50 £6.00 £6.00 £6.00 £5.00 £6.00
£41.50
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 NO NO YES