FYN WHAT’S HOT
crispy chewy nugget of rice with sustainably caught fish, umami aioli, wasabi furikake, and soy gel; spiced chicken, coconut yoghurt, spring onion, and wakame (a type of edible seaweed); and daikon maki with sesame mayonnaise and gardenia fruit prepared three ways. This was followed by an interlude of bone marrow butter rolled in black onion ash, served with minibaguettes so fresh out the fire that they exhaled a blast of steam as we cracked them open.
THE SECOND TIDE: KAISEKI TRAY Then came the Kaiseki tray featuring ramen noodles made from cuts of squid meat cooked in a rich buttery sauce; king oyster mushroom, celeriac, and leeks in a black truffle eel sauce; a tempura marogo leaf, quinoa, and chives; and game fish with seaweed dressing, koji cucumber, and katsuobushi (dried, fermented, and smoked skipjack tuna). This was followed by grass-fed beef with Sancho pepper and ponzu. Between the two tides, Chef Peter Tempelhoff presented us with a delightful, interactive palate cleansing experience. Into a small bowl filled with edible flower petals and herbs, he poured a small measure of liquid nitrogen from a stainless steel vessel, which bubbled, fizzed, and evaporated right before our eyes, leaving the petals and herbs frozen solid. We were instructed to take a little pestle and grind the contents of the bowl into a fine powder. He then placed a dollop of celery sorbet into the remains and voila: a palate cleanser that successfully engaged the eyes, ears, nose, hands, and mouth!
THE THIRD TIDE: SWEET KAISEKI The final course consisted of cherry “cheesecake”; Madagascan
FYN is situated at 5th Floor, Speaker’s Corner building, 37 Parliament Street, Cape Town. For more information call 021 286 2733 or visit the website www.fynrestaurant.com. chocolate chips, salted Japanese plums, and fennel ice-cream; and blueberries with yuzu and coconut, paired with a dessert glass of the honey sweet Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2014. Throughout the meal – all three heavenly tides of it - Chef Peter Tempelhoff carried the theme of serving small, perfectly balanced dishes. We were also struck by the intelligence of the carefully curated wine pairings and the delicious accents the wine imparted to the meal, from the fresh and fruity Saurwein “Chi” Riesling 2018 to the exquisite, complex, and velvety Morgenster “Lourens River Valley” 2003 Bordeaux-style blend.
DARLING OF THE CAPE TOWN FOOD SCENE Our meal at FYN was, truthfully, one of the best food experiences we’ve had. Every bite was new, interesting, and delicious and no corner of the palate wanted for seasoning or texture. With flawless service and a brilliant wine selection, we were left utterly bowled over. Chef Peter Tempelhoff, Chef Ashley Moss, and manager Jennifer Hugé have built something spectacular and its clear why FYN has so quickly endeared itself to the Cape Town food scene. SV
AUTUMN 2019 SOUTHERN VINES
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