LA BELLA FIGURA

Nashville welcomes Michelin stars to wine and dine us

Written by Dave Mahanes/Photography by Haas & Haas and The Joseph

Fifteen years ago, my family and I were in Chicago to see the Rolling Stones. We had the good fortune to dine at the world-renowned and Michelin-star Italian restaurant, Spiaggia. It was one of those hall of fame-worthy meals that we would remember forever, and I turned to my wife and asked, “Why can’t we have something like this in Nashville?” Well, guess what? We do now!

Tony Mantuano, the longtime chef at Spiaggia, and his wife, Cathy, have partnered with the Pizzuti Companies to bring la bella figura to Music City through Yolan, the new upscale Italian restaurant in The Joseph, a new Luxury Collection Hotel. Beyond fine Italian dining, la bella figura describes the beautiful Italian way of living – cutting a beautiful figure in every detail. Joel Pizzuti, President of the Pizzuti Companies and a Vanderbilt alumnus, has named Yolan after his grandmother Yolanda and The Joseph after his grandfather. The cibo e bevande (Food and Wine) program at The Joseph (Denim and Four Walls) is the result of a match made in paradiso.

Chef Mantuano has been nominated 12 times by the James Beard Foundation and won Best Chef Midwest in 2005 (when I dined there, of course!). He has received a Michelin star every year since 2011 and is the Obamas favorite restaurant. Cathy Mantuano is a sommelier and was one of the first people in the United States to curate an all-Italian wine list. She also ran the wine program at Spiaggia. Tony and Cathy trained in Italy in the early 1980s and have returned there every year since. Tony runs the kitchen and strolls the floor overseeing the impeccable service while Cathy stays in front of the house overseeing the perfect pairings of wine with the featured dishes.

Cioccolato Bianco

The entrance of the Yolan is completely open to and adjacent to a sleek espresso bar featuring coffee, tea, and fresh from the oven pastries and to an open bar serving craft cocktails and cicchetti (snacks or small dishes typically found in the osterias of Venice). One steps down from there into an elegant space featuring 21-foot ceilings, black quilted leather banquets, and tables of brown figured walnut inlaid with mother of pearl. A refrigerated glass cabinet holds massive 80-pound wheels of imported Parmigiano–Reggiano and separates the dining area from the kitchen, allowing diners a glimpse of where Tony Mantuano’s magic happens. The exposed glass wine enclosure contains over 600 bottles of wine meticulously selected and maintained in a temperature-controlled environment. The space is adorned by contemporary art from the Pizzuti family’s private collection, one of the largest private contemporary art collections globally, and from commissioned pieces including those by local Tennessee artists (more on the “Art of the Joseph” in the next issue of Sophisticated Living Nashville).

Tony and Cathy Mantuano

To deliver the ultimate culinary experience, Yolan spares no expense. Twenty-seven dies for a pasta extruder were imported to make the various house-made pastas. The kitchen also features a custom wood-burning oven also imported from Italy. Through their many trips to Italy over the years, they have accumulated a vast stable of Italian purveyors, from crystal glassware to olive oil.

Tony and Cathy Mantuano are passionate about the authenticity of their brand of Italian cuisine, which fuses both the modern and the traditional. One can choose from a tasting menu of 5 or 8 courses or order à la carte along with the Italian tradition of sequenced dishes of Antipasti, Primi, Secondi, and Dulci. However, when my family and I dined there, we went a little freestyle.

Cotoletta alla Milanese

For an appetizer, we selected the risotto from the Primi menu as our starter. The risotto was a delicate blend of saffron, lobster, and Parmigiano-Reggiano that melted in your mouth. On our sommelier’s advice, we paired this with a Jermann 2018 Pinot Grigio, which was well balanced, a little on the dry side with a hint of green apples.

Cacao Bistecca

We ordered the Pappardelle from the Primi menu and the Bistecca medium-rare from the Secondi menu for our main course. The Bistecca was a 6-inch thick 36-ounce Kansas City strip steak accompanied by potatoes with rosemary lardo. The beef was cooked perfectly with a perfect char on the outside with that wonderful fleshy texture. They paired this for us with a Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2017, which was bold, dry, acidic with a good bit of tannin. The flavor had elements of cherry, oak, and vanilla. The Pappardelle was prepared with white bolognese sauce containing ground pork, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and I am sure a healthy amount of butter; it was divine.

We did not have room for dessert-we will need to pace ourselves better next time. However, we did savor some gorgeous little treats at the end. The Dolci menu had some elegant creations crafted of chocolate and pralines, and a selection of gelati and sorbetti.

Romanesco

Yolan is a welcome world-class addition to Nashville’s culinary community and raises the bar in its sophistication. Goditi questo ristorante meraviglioso!

Yolan 403 4th Avenue South, Nashville, TN 37201 / (615) 248-1990 The Joseph 401 Korean Veterans Boulevard, Nashville, TN 37201 / (615) 248-1990 Yolan-open daily 5:00am-10:00pm (additional hours will be added for breakfast and lunch). Denim-open for lunch and dinner. Lobby Bar-open breakfast, lunch and dinner. Four Walls-open for dinner.