8 minute read

Paired to Perfection (x2)

Tony Mantuano’s Puglian dishes and perfect wines at Yolan / Herradura Tequila pairs with Sean Brock’s tasting menu at June

Written by Dave Mahanes / Photos courtesy of Brown-Forman and Yolan

Melissa and I were recently treated to a private curated tequila pairing dinner featuring Herradura tequilas at June, Chef Sean Brock’s newest venture located above its sister restaurant, Audrey. June offers a tasting menu-only format creatively incorporating ingredients indigenous to the American South. Brock was seen in the open kitchen overseeing each of the evening’s impeccably composed dishes. June and Audrey’s master mixologist and national winner of the 2016 Woodford Reserve Manhattan Experience, Jonathan Howard, curated the tequila cocktails.

At our table was master tequilier Ruben Aceves, whose family founded Herradura in 1870. Sold in 1995 to Brown- Forman Distillers Corp, Herradura tequilas are still produced at the same facilities in Amatitán, Jalisco, Mexico, with the same care and perfection. Herradura tequilas are sophisticated, complex premium spirits that only use 100% agave and are 100% natural. Herradura has been the #1 selling tequila brand in Mexico for the last 70 years.

June’s Sean Brock

June’s Sean Brock

First Plate: Grilled swordfish belly, green tomato, watercress Tequila: Herradura Blanco Herradura Blanco is a clear blanco tequila; however, this tequila is the only blanco that is aged 45 days in American White Oak which results in sweet agave flavors and oaky notes. Other blancos are not aged.

The Herradura Blanco Cocktail: Jonathan’s approach was to take this beautiful tequila that has so much vibrancy and so much going on in the glass already and just season it to highlight certain small areas that are going to pair with the food. He used simple dashes of the green tomato, brandy, and shiso salt, not to change the tequila but to just add to it.

Second Plate: Giving thanks duck, brassica, Parmesan Tequila: Herradura Reposado Reposado means rested or matured in the barrel. The industry standard for a reposado is to age the tequila for two months in an oak container. However, Herradura Reposado is aged eleven months instead of two in a smaller 55-gallon charred White American Oak barrel. Herradura Reposado was the first reposado and debuted in 1974. As a result of the aging process, it has a beautiful amber color with elements of butter, vanilla, and cooked agave, with a smooth, sweet finish with a slight taste of spice.

Herradura Reposado Cocktail: Jonathan took fresh-pressed grapefruit juice, North Carolina honey, and a component of different spices used as a non-alcoholic binder. Subsequently, he used liquid nitrogen to freeze this and cut it into frozen chunks. Then the Herradura Reposado was simply poured over this frozen concoction where it slowly dissipated to create a more concentrated flavor throughout the experience.

June’s Grilled Swordfish Belly

June’s Grilled Swordfish Belly

Third Plate: 45 day aged bear creek beef, black currants, romaine Tequila: Herradura Añejo The standard age for añejo is 12 months, with the size limit on the barrel no larger than 159 gallons. Like their Reposado, Herradura Añejo still uses smaller 55-gallon American White Oak barrels to age the tequila. The smaller barrel size gives the Añejo more oak color, flavor, and nuances. In addition, Herradura Añejo is aged 25 for months—13 months beyond the industry standard of 12. This aging produces a smooth, amber-colored spirit that leaves notes of cooked agave, toasted oak, and dried fruit. Casa Herradura introduced the world to añejo in 1962.

Herradura Anjeo Cocktail: A citrus compound including Tennessee sourwood honey and Chesapeake trout lily vinegar is diluted into a batch and frozen. This eliminates the gas created by shaking and stirring, which dries out the beverage. This is why this tequila cocktail is so rich and velvety and colder than any drink a bartender can usually make.

June’s 45 Day Aged Bear Creek Beef

June’s 45 Day Aged Bear Creek Beef

Fourth Plate: Honey custard with lemon caramel & milk ice cream Tequila: Herradura Añejo Ultra Herradura Añejo Ultra is an añejo that is filtered through activated charcoal which removes the amber color resulting in a clear liquid that looks like a blanco but is not. The flavor of the añejo remains. A few drops of agave syrup are added to the spirit. It is called Ultra because it is ultra- clean and smooth with unique flavors of cooked agave, caramel, and honey with toasted almonds. This has become a new way to enjoy tequila not only in Mexico but in the U.S. Another name for this type of tequila is cristaline.

Orecchiette con Cima di Rapa

Orecchiette con Cima di Rapa

After Dinner Drink: Tequila Herradura Aniversario We were treated at the end of our tasting to the Tequila Herradura Aniversario; a limited production 100-month-aged Blue Weber Agave celebrating 150 years (1880–2020) of Herradura’s excellence in the production of tequila. This Extra Añejo was served neat in a small snifter. We could taste very subtle charred oak, cooked agave, vanilla, cinnamon, and floral notes such as rose petals or gardenias in this complex tequila.

June 809 Meridian Street, Second Floor, Nashville, TN 37207 / 615.988.3263 / junenashville.com (June was not yet open to the public at publication time-kindly call Audrey at 615.988.3263.

Recently, I had the good fortune to experience the wonderful 8-course wine pairing dinner at Yolan, The Joseph’s flagship Italian restaurant. It marked the introduction of their new spring menu inspired by the cuisine from Puglia, a southern region forming the heel of Italy’s “boot.” We were seated at a table in front of the custom temperature-controlled glass cabinet that holds massive 80-pound wheels of imported Parmigiano-Reggiano and separates the dining area from the kitchen. Headed by Michelin award-winning and James Beard Foundation nominated chef Tony Mantuano and his wife and sommelier, Cathy, the Yolan wine pairing dinner is not to be missed. Soft lighting and luxurious decor set the atmosphere, making it a gourmand and wine enthusiast’s paradise. The meal was well-paced and lasted about three hours but felt much shorter. Before each course, Beverage Director and Wine Expert Jon Kearns introduced each wine paired with the forthcoming dish explaining the characteristics of the wine and why it was chosen to accompany the plate. It was an entertaining education for me. Captain Samantha Becker led the food presentation and provided elegant descriptions of each. The sumptuous experience was expertly prepared by Chef de Cuisine Joey Fecci and Executive Pastry Chef Noelle Marchetti. Here is a brief summary of each course and pairing (in parentheses are notes courtesy of Chefs and Wine Expert).

Crostata di Cozze Marinated mussels (the most common seafood of Puglia), fermented ramp foam, Calabrian chili oil Wine: 2019 Tornatore Etna Bianco, Sicilia (minerality, aromatic, fruit notes, finishes with salinity)

Orecchiette con Cima di Rapa Handmade orecchiette (ear shaped pasta), broccoli rabe, garlic, Parmigiano-Reggiano, breadcrumbs Wine: 2019 Colleleva Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Marche (green, fresh acidity, crisp)

Risotto Risotto, Castelvetrano olives, parsley purée, stracciatella (a cheese from Puglia), olive caramel Wine: 2019 Aurora Falerio, Marche (rich fruit, dry, greenness, soft)

Pavlova

Pavlova

Ravioli di Grano Arso Burnt wheat ravioli filled with sweet pea cheese with a morel ragu Wine: 2016 Vallana Spanna Colline Novaresi, Piemonte (earthy, floral, high in acid, a bit less body)

Ippoglosso Fave e Cicoria Pan seared wild Alaskan halibut (finished off in a wood oven), fava bean purée, chicory, snap pea butter sauce (a classic fish dish from Puglia) Wine: 2016 Pacherhof Sylvaner, Trentino-Alto Adige (rich fruit, dry, greenness)

Agnello Local lamb sausage, asparagus salsa verde with a crispy shallot shell in the center filled with caramelized shallots. Wine: 2019 Fratelli Alessandria ‘Speziale’ Verduno Pelaverga, Piemonte (light, spicy)

Pavlova (a pre-desert) Goat’s milk panna cotta topped with a pickled raspberry gelee and a basil diplomat mousse

Girasole (Sunflower) Caramelized sun butter mouse with burnt sea salt with a sesame paste halva cake inside topped with a coco nivea, a citrus jelly and a gelato sunchoke Wine: 2018 Tessari ‘Tre Colli’ Recioto di Soave, Veneto (fresh fruit, not too sweet, savory notes, balanced perfectly) sl

The eight-course tasting menu is $145 and $265 with the wine pairing. A five-course tasting menu is also available for $110 and $185 with the wine pairing. By Reservation only. Yolan (at The Joseph Nashville) 403 4th Avenue South, Nashville, TN 37201 / 615.231.0405 / yolannashville.com. Monday 5pm-10pm / Closed Tuesday / Wednesday-Sunday 5pm-10pm