Let's Chaat!

Interview by Carolyn Smith Bryant / Photos by Charlie Mahanes and Morph Hospitality Group

Carolyn Smith Bryant: In preparation for this interview for Sophisticated Living Nashville, I lived in your Instagram feed, read your newest and obsession-worthy cookbook Chaat: Recipes from the Kitchens, Markets, and Railways of India, twice-through—

Maneet Chauhan: ...I apologize. *both laugh*

CSB: I watched the Food Network and read a lot about you online. In doing so, I wondered if there was anyone else who has done more for familiarizing the western world with the diversity, history, and seasonality of Indian food and its ingredients. I came to the conclusion that you are its greatest ambassador of all time. The greatest of all time. The G.O.A.T.—The Tom Brady of Indian Food!

MC: Wow, you’re giving me goosebumps! That is—that is so kind of you.

CSB: So, my question is...are you glad you didn’t listen to your mother when she said, “there is more to life than food, Maneet?”

MC: I’m glad that I did and I’m sure that she’s glad too. It’s interesting that we are having this conversation because just this past Monday I was honored as a “Champion of Global Cuisine” by the Culinary Institute of America with the likes of Chef Roy Yamaguchi, Chef Enrique Olvera, and Chef Pedro. It’s surreal to be in that group of legendary co-honorees. The fact is, I never set out to be an ambassador of Indian food. When I was in India, all I wanted to do was be a baking and pastry chef because it really wasn’t celebrated very much. I used to see beautiful cakes in books and say, “one day I’m going to be able to do all of this.” So, I did my undergrad in India in hotel management because, at that time, there weren’t culinary, baking, and pastry schools. In my final year of hotel management, I asked my instructor what the best culinary institute in the world was and without even batting an eyelash he said, “The Culinary Institute of America.” So that’s where I went! I was the only Indian on campus for the majority of my time there.

I used to take my friends to eat Indian food in local restaurants for $8.95 all-you-can-eat greasy buffet. They would say “yeah right, that’s good Maneet” and I would say “no! this is not good!” That was not the food that I was raised on; three fresh meals a day, seasonal cooking. I remember red cabbage was only available for one week in December and when we were done picking it all and preparing it, we had to wait a whole year. But when we talk about ‘seasonal cooking’ we don’t just mean what is available in that season. Those vegetables and produce are very important because they nourish and they balance out your body based on what the environment is. It’s so much more than a trend. I get very distressed about the fact that you can get mangoes in the middle of winter or spring peas throughout the year. *laughs* No, they’re called ‘spring peas.’

CSB: I thoroughly enjoyed reading Chaat, the newest of two cookbooks. It’s a gorgeous book co-written with the incomparable Jody Eddy, chock-full of history, stories, photos, and recipes that are anything but daunting. I loved revisiting the map of India and learning about terrain and proximity to other countries; both of which influenced the ingredients used in different regions. I loved learning about the chaats, the snacks that can be found at railroad stations all over the nation; often the same families making the same recipe for generations. So, your fascinating cookbook is a study in tradition but yet, your Chauhan Ale and Masala House is fusion cuisine. Which is more fun for you? Preserving food traditions or creating new ones?

MC: I like doing both. I have fierce pride in where I have come from and fierce pride in where I have ended up. So, Chauhan Ale and Masala House needed to embody who I am. My roots are Indian. At Chauhan Ale and Masala House there is a section of the menu, which is traditional, purist. But life is about evolution; you cannot be stuck in one place—and that’s the same with my food. The more I travel, the more I learn about different foods, techniques, and ingredients, and I love incorporating that. Creativity is very important. So, we have Chicken Tikka Masala Poutine or Nashville Hot Chicken Pakoras because that’s who I am today. But I’ll never forget where I came from.

CSB: You have a beautiful family. Your husband Vivek who is also your business partner, and your two kids, your seven-yearold son Karma and ten-year-old daughter Shagun. I loved reading about all their favorite dishes, those they request on birthdays and holidays, and all the places you wrote that you could not wait to take them via rail in India. This article will come out in the middle of summer. Is this the year that you take to the rails with your family, and if not, do you have fun summer plans and traditions that you can share with our readers?

MC: Because of my schedule, a lot of things are impromptu. Last year I was filming in Park City, Utah, and I was supposed to be there for ten days. But because of COVID protocol, I was there for 30 days. I took the kids along with me and we had the most epic time! We went white water rafting; we ate and drank everything! I’m doing something in Bermuda this summer and I’m taking the family with me. So, yes, summer is going to be epic, no matter what!

CSB: I’m sure our readers have frequented your award-winning Nashville restaurants Chaatable, Chauhan Ale and Masala House, Tánsuō, and The Mockingbird. They probably also know the three breweries you own in the area because you believe that beer is the BEST alcoholic beverage to pair with Indian food?

MC: I think anything fermented from India is best to go with any food! *both laugh*

CSB: I happen to agree. Our readers have most certainly seen you as a judge on many Food Network shows from Chopped to Halloween Wars to Holiday Wars and more. Here we sit, two transplants to this sophisticated city…what was it about Nashville that made it the perfect place from which to grow your brand and raise your family?

MC: People always ask me, “why did you choose Nashville and Franklin?” and I say “I didn’t. Nashville and Franklin chose me.” We were in New York, Chopped had really taken off—this is about 12 years ago—and I was getting calls from all over the country. “Would you like to open a restaurant in San Francisco? Seattle?” You know, the obvious food cities. And then I got a call, “would you like to open something in Nashville?” And Vivek and I turned to each other “who goes to Nashville?” Because at that time, we’d never visited here. But we’re the kind of people that explore each and every opportunity, it’s foolish not to. So, we hopped on a plane and fell in love with the city.

CSB: You were raised in the eastern India town of Ranchi within the tradition of Sikhism, the world’s fifth largest organized religion. The tenets of Sikhism are simple and pure: honesty, compassion, generosity, service, devotion, and equality for all. In addition to your faith, what ideas, messages, and people had the most impact on your outlook in life, goals, and dreams?

MC: We were raised Sikhs, but it was never staunch. What I loved about the way we were raised is that there needs to be respect for each and every person, no matter who they are or what religion they believe in. That secularism is something I hold very dear as I do our tradition of service. When we would go to the Gurdwara—the Sikh temple—everyone had to do their bit, be it washing dishes or cleaning the floor. I think that is very important to an equitable, compassionate society. In Sikhism, there is a community kitchen called langar. After prayers, everyone sits on the floor with food that has been made by people who have volunteered their services. When the bread is given to you, you take it in your hand because that is an offering given to God. You can be a pauper or a king, but you’re sitting right next to each other breaking the same bread. That is a very profound moment. My grandmom taught me a prayer that I repeat whenever I’m in distress “Ik Onkar,” which means “God is one.” I believe religion should bring you peace. Everybody needs to be themselves and believe in what they believe.

CSB: Which family members had a strong impact on your outlook and career path?

MC: I grew up in a family of really strong women. My dad’s mom told stories of crossing the border during the partition of India and of being a refugee. She went on to start her own business. My other grandmom was widowed and carried her family. I had such great role models in front of me. But I also had my dad who pushed both my sister and me. He said “listen, you can be whatever you want, do whatever you want.” In Indian society where being a girl was unacceptable, I decided on a profession which was so outside the norm…to be given that freedom to grow. After we were born, my mom got her Bachelor’s in Arts and Education as well as a Montessori course, and my dad got his Masters. It used to be fun, the four of us sitting at the dining room table together studying. Our parents used to tell us “we are middle class people, good education is the biggest gift we can give you.” Dad has always said that there is no place for mediocrity in life. Don’t just get through life, live life. And that’s what I’ve done throughout my life.

CSB: And now you’re passing this on to your children. What a gift.

MC: As long as they listen to me that’s all I care about! *both laugh*

CSB: That is a challenge, isn’t it.

MC: Especially in the mornings when I’m like “please finish your homework!”

CSB: Speaking of challenges, I find that the challenge for most women in life is finding the balance in home, work, and self. What is your magic behind juggling family, the explosive growth of your brand, good health, friendships, and all the projects you must have in the works?

MC: I think that the first step is to believe there is nothing known as “balance.” At least in my life there isn’t. A lot of people live with the guilt that they’re not giving enough time to their kids, business, etc…and that is human nature. This morning, I got the kids up early, they got their science experiment done, and I got them to school. Now we are sitting here. After this, Guy [Fieri] is filming a show here and he wants me to show up. The bottom line is I enjoy everything I do. I enjoy the chaos of it and the high I get after the craziness is done. You know, from March 14-April 20 I was home for 2 days but when I got home, I was on a high like “Oh my God, I have achieved this.” So that’s what makes me tick, and it’s fine. People should stop overthinking and just start living.

CSB: I agree. On a different note, our readership is very philanthropic. Quite often they read this magazine, learn about new causes, and support them. What organizations are you helping these days and why?

MC: Right now, I am supporting Chef Jose Andres with World Central Kitchen. He has given us all a platform to do what we do…we are chefs, we cook food. He addresses everything going on in the world like in Ukraine which is so sad. I’ve heard from my grand mom about walking across the border as refugees when my dad was a year old. She would have tears in her eyes “we didn’t even know how to get milk for our son.” So, to think of Ukraine and to remember our family’s story, it resonates with me. All of those moms and young kids are displaced, for no reason at all. The March of Dimes also gets a lot of my time and attention because my son was in the NICU for 3 months, born at 26 weeks, and weighing less than 2.5 pounds which is lighter than a gallon of milk. So, I have seen the miracles the March of Dimes has created. We also participate in the Franklin Supper Club of OneGenAway which helps to relieve food insecurity. I do whatever I can to help even if it’s in a really small way. It’s up to us to make a better society. If we only think about ourselves and not the people around us—the people who truly need it—then why are we living life? We’ve got to give back.

CSB: Your Instagram posts are great. One can learn to make a dessert or after-school snack, watch you and your colleagues deliver a good Beyoncé drop challenge, or watch your glam squad transform you from your naturally stunning state to camera-ready. To me, you are accessible, unique, funny, playful, brilliant, powerful, and chic. How do you describe yourself and what are you most proud of?

MC: Um...wow. I would describe myself as living life to the fullest. I feel fortunate that I have a platform. I use my Instagram for positivity. There are a lot of people who reach out to me and say, “in the morning when I open Instagram and see your smiling face, that’s all that I need.”

The recipes I put on Instagram are what I’m making for my family on a daily basis. I want people to realize that Indian food is not difficult to make, it really isn’t. You just get a couple of spices and follow your story, what speaks to you. It might be ginger garlic paste that somebody learns from me, and they put it in their grandmom’s meatloaf to take it to the next level. It’s all about putting your own signature on your meals and having fun. I have fun. The time I stop having fun is the time I’m going to stop doing something.

CSB: Speaking of fun, you recently had the opportunity to partner with the Amanyara Resort in Turks and Caicos where you provided bespoke dining experiences complete with locally sourced fresh ingredients, craft cocktails, and opportunities to mix and mingle with lucky guests. This seems like a delightful part of your job and a win for the luxury resort. From celebrity chef, to author, to restauranteur, to food critic and judge, if you will please, what is your absolute favorite part of your job?

MC: Being a mom. Kids are so precious because you get to see the beauty and purity of the world through their eyes. It’s not a job, it’s who I am, which is very important. I’m at a place in my life that there is nothing I don’t take joy in doing. There is no monotony in what I do. Today I’m doing this, tomorrow I’m doing this, and that’s what keeps me going.

CSB: One day you’re judging pumpkins and cakes, or chopping someone…

MC: ...and now I’m here!

CSB: And that feels like a beautiful place to stop.

Photos taken at Cheekwood during Luftwerks exhibition (see p. 27). Thanks to Cheekwood. Clothing courtesy of Gus Mayer and Maneet Chauhan’s personal jewelry, jeans and sneakers. Glam by The Only Agency’s Christin Cook Ziti-Hair and Makeup using Danessa Myricks, Charlotte Tilbury and Rare Beauty makeup products, and Oribe styling products. Chaatable / 345 40th Avenue North, Nashville, TN / (615.383.1303 / chaatablenashville.com Tuesday-Thursday 4:30-9:30pm, Friday-Saturday 4:30-10:30pm, Sunday 4:30-9:30pm Chauhan Ale and Masala House / 123 12th Avenue North, Nashville, TN 37203 / 615.242.8426 /chauhannashville.com / Monday-Thursday 5pm-9pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm, Sunday 11am-2:30pm, 5pm-9pm Tansuo / 121B 12th Avenue North, Nashville, TN 37203 / 615.782-6786 / tansuonashville.com Wednesday, Thursday 5pm-9pm, Friday-Saturday 5pm-10pm, ‘Sunday 5pm-9pm, Closed Monday and Tuesday The Mockingbird / 121 12th Avenue North, Nashville, TN 37203 / (615) 741-9900 / mockingbirdnashville.com / Wednesday-Thursday 11am-2:30pm, 4-9pm,Friday 11am-2:30pm, 4pm-10pm, Saturday 10:30am-2:30pm, 4-10pm, Sunday 10:30am-2:30pm, 4-9pm Closed Monday and Tuesday / Reservations available through Open Table World Central Kitchen / wck.org | March of Dimes /marchofdimes.com