Where Los Angeles, April 2019

Page 52

DINING RÉPUBLIQUE  In a landmark once occupied by Charlie Chaplin’s studio, fine-dining veteran Walter Manzke and pastry-chef wife Margarita turn out bistro classics (e.g., escargots, duck confit and steak frites) for a trendy clientele huddling at communal tables. Café: B, L (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Bistro: D (nightly).  624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310.362.6115 $$$  Map I13 TESSE RESTAURANT  Raphael Francois is in the kitchen at Bill Chait’s new restaurant, serving classic French delights—handcrafted charcuterie and foie gras, steak frites—updated for 21st-century L.A. Pioneering mixologists Julian Cox and Nick Meyer are behind the cocktail menu. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).  8500 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.360.3866 $$$  Map H12 TROIS MEC  Ludo Lefebvre, Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook are behind this hot restaurant in a 26-seat former pizzeria. Diners must purchase advance tickets via the restaurant’s website to enjoy Lefebvre’s prix-fixe, five-course meal. D (Tu-Sa).  716 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.484.8588, troismec.com $$$$  Map H13

ITALIAN

DIN TAI FUNG  Foodies line up at this dumpling house for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. L, D (daily).  Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 310.277.3898; The Americana at Brand, 177 Caruso Ave., Glendale, 818.551.5561; Westfield Santa Anita, 400 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.446.8588; 1108 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.574.7068; Del Amo Fashion Center, 21540 Hawthorne Blvd., Suite 519, Torrance, 310.214.1175 $$  Map J10, U23, R23 (2), D2 MR CHOW  The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York, London, Miami, Las Vegas and Mexico City offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. Beverly Hills: L (M-F), D (nightly). Malibu: D (nightly).  344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911; Malibu Country Mart, 3835 Cross Creek Road, 18A, Malibu, 310.456.7600 $$$  Map I11, K7 YANG CHOW  Fine Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine and an elegant atmosphere have made this restaurant a Chinatown mainstay since 1977. Don’t miss the Slippery Shrimp, which have been featured on Food Network. L, D (daily).  819 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.625.0811; 6443 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park, 818.347.2610; 3777 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.432.6868 $$  Map G17, west of A1, Q22

ECLECTIC/FUSION CASSIA  This bustling Southeast Asian-inspired brasserie, set inside a 1930s art deco building, finds chef Bryant Ng (the Spice Table) serving dishes like Vietnamese pot au feu, black cod with anchovy broth, and grilled pork-belly vermicelli. Sister concept Esters Wine Shop & Bar is adjacent. D (nightly).  1314 7th St., Santa Monica, 310.393.6699 $$$ Map L8 ORSA & WINSTON  Chef/owner Josef Centeno draws on Japanese and Italian traditions at this acclaimed restaurant. Select a vegetable, fish or meat grain bowl for lunch; for dinner, enjoy a daily changing six-course tasting menu with nightly supplements and an optional wine pairing. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa), Br (Sa-Su).  122 W. 4th St., downtown, 213.687.0300 $$$$  Map I16 VESPERTINE  Chef Jordan Kahn’s mysterious, pricey “gastronomical experiment” topped late L.A. Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold’s 2017 list of the city’s

101 best restaurants. Expect a space-age meal of 18-plus courses. Reservations must be made in advance online. D (Tu-Sa).  3599 Hayden Ave., Culver City, 323.320.4023, vespertine.la $$$$  Map L12

FRENCH CAFÉ PINOT  This glass box of a restaurant adjacent to Central Library offers romantic outdoor dining, sky­line views—from the bottom up—and contemporary Cal-French cuisine from the Patina Group. D (M-Sa).  700 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.239.6500 $$$  Map H16 KENDALL’S BRASSERIE AND BAR  Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot for before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here (e.g., moules frites). L (M-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su).  135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$  Map H16 LE PETIT PARIS  The L.A. iteration of David and Fanny Rolland’s original Le Petit Paris in Cannes is housed in the historic El Dorado building. By day, the brasserie is bright and tranquil, and at night, it transforms into an upscale lounge. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).  418 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.217.4445 $$$  Map I17 THE LITTLE DOOR  For a candlelit dinner, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic French-Mediterranean dishes under the stars or by a crackling fireplace. D (nightly).  8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 $$$  Map I12 PATINA  The Walt Disney Concert Hall pairs classicalmusic offerings with fine dining, thanks to its fine inhouse restaurant. Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu. D (Tu-Sa).  141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$  Map H16 PETIT TROIS  Trois Mec’s neighboring, French-barstyle spinoff offers an à la carte menu of classic dishes such as a confit-fried chicken leg, croque monsieur and delectable omelet with Boursin cheese. A new outpost in the Valley opened last year. L.A.: L, D (daily). Sherman Oaks: B, L, D (daily).  718 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.468.8916; 13705 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.989.2600 $$$  Map H13, G10

BESTIA  Multiregional Italian restaurant in the hip Arts District serves up such “beast”-focused dishes as roasted marrow bone with spinach gnocchetti, breadcrumbs and aged balsamic. D (nightly).  2121 E. 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724 $$$  Map east of J17 BOTTEGA LOUIE  This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas. There’s a gourmet market and patisserie, too. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su).  700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$  Map I16 BRERA RISTORANTE  From the team behind the Factory Kitchen around the corner, this stylish trattoria (formerly Officine Brera) serves a daily changing, Northern Italy-inspired menu in a rustic-meets-contemporary space. The rice dishes, spit-roasted meats and handmade pastas are superb. L (M-F), D (nightly).  1331 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.553.8006 $$$  Map J17 CULINA  The Four Seasons’ acclaimed Italian restaurant boasts coastal influences and a sleek crudo bar. Adjacent is Vinoteca, an Italian-inspired wine- and espresso-bar concept. B, D (daily); L (M-Sa); Br (Su).  Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$  Map J12 DAN TANA’S  New York-style restaurant, an L.A. classic for nearly 50 years. Red-sauced pastas, huge steaks. Reservations required. D (nightly).  9071 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9444 $$$  Map I11 DRAGO CENTRO  Chef Celestino Drago’s well-executed Italian fare and extensive wine list are presented in a contemporary and handsome space. L (M-F), D (nightly).  525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$  Map H16 THE FACTORY KITCHEN  Former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana turns his attention to a casual, industrial-chic setting in the Arts District. Fresh-made pastas, beautiful cheeses and cured meats, complemented by an inventive cocktail program, contribute to a daily changing menu. L (M-F), D (nightly).  1300 Factory Place, downtown, 213.996.6000 $$$  Map J17 FELIX TRATTORIA  Chef Evan Funke’s trattoria boasts an open kitchen, a wood-fired pizza oven, a Tuscan grill and a glass-enclosed pasta laboratorio where Funke’s masterpieces—pappardelle, tonnarelli, strascinati—take

ED ANDERSON

Rossoblu’s dining room (p. 51)

ALIMENTO  Zach Pollack, who recently opened Cosa Buona in Echo Park, is behind this tiny, hip space, where a clever menu includes tortellini in brodo, featuring dumplings filled with a hot broth. D (Tu-Su).  1710 Silver Lake Blvd., L.A., 323.928.2888 $$$  Map east of W23

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