// NEW LOOKS FOR 2018 BEST-LOOKING SKIS / 5 FABRICS YOU SHOULD KNOW
*DEEP IN THE
MONASHEES A snow-filled adventure in the heart of the powder belt
OVER THE
HORIZON
In Europe there’s always something different just one hill away
ABOVE
OCTOBER 2017 $4.95 ISSUE 42
THE CLOUDS
Oregon stratovolcanoes take skiers to great heights in the High Cascades
CANADA POST PUBLICATION AGREEMENT # 42084025
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EDITOR'S NOTE
Explore your inner skier
FIRST LOAD
New 2018 gear, lifestyle and resort news
ELEVATED LIVING
Belle Époque at Kandersteg, Switzerland, celebrates skiing’s history and tradition
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SKI FIT
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SKI TIPS
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How to get physically ready for the ski season
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Strap on the fatties, find an athletic stance and float down the mountain
PARTING SHOT Snowed In: Shiga Kogen, Japan
FEATURES 22
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COVER STORY: DEEP IN THE MONASHEES
Impeccably run powder skiing outfit focuses on the finer details. By Edith Rozsa. Photography by Bruno Long.
ABOVE THE CLOUDS
Stratovolcanoes take skiers to great heights in the High Cascades. By Gordie Bowles. Photography by Paul Morrison.
OPPOSITE PAGE: Edith Rozsa at Monashee Snowcats. Photo by Bruno Long. THIS PAGE, TOP: Belle Époque in Kandersteg. BOTTOM: The Silcox Hut on Mt. Hood, Oregon. Photo by Paul Morrison.
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EDITOR’S NOTE
“Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” – Mark Twain
OCTOBER 2017. Issue 42. EDITORIAL/ART/ PRODUCTION EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Gordie Bowles ART DIRECTOR Agata Piskunowicz COPY EDITOR Christina Newberry SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER Paul Morrison SENIOR WRITER Michael Mastarciyan PRODUCTION Jason Pham CONTRIBUTORS David Carlier, Claire Challen, Guiseppe di Mauro, Grant Gunderson, Bruno Long, Michael Mastarciyan, Paul Morrison, Christina Newberry, Edith Rozsa, Ryan Stuart, Steven Threndyle.
LIKE MOST IMPACT WORDS, THOSE THAT CARRY EXTRA PUNCH, exploration has alternate meanings. Context is crucial.
Publication Agreement No. 42084025 Canada Post No. 7309575 ISSN: 1913-9861
Most historical references to the term point to “discovery” of information, resources or land. In the Age of Discovery, when Europeans set out to chart the rest of the world, the meaning of exploration was clear: claim and conquer. In modern times, exploration primarily involves the discovery of information. This magazine showcases our contributors’ explorations – of self, snow and mountains – as they travel to unfamiliar places and in the process discover something within themselves. While Edith Rozsa finds tranquility and adventure in the oodles of snow in the B.C. Interior (“Deep in the Monashees”), Ryan Stuart undertakes an interesting analysis of the similarities and many differences between neighbouring European ski destinations in Switzerland and Italy (“Over the Horizon”). When I returned to Bend, Oregon, for the first time since 1993 – this time with a media crew (“Above the Clouds”) – I discovered a new side of skiing on
ADVERTISING Erik Kalacis sales@s-media.ca Mark Kristofic mark@s-media.ca SNOWSPORTS MEDIA INCORPORATED MANAGING PARTNER Mark Kristofic PARTNER Ken Villazor PARTNER Gordie Bowles DIGITAL Paul Solovyov SOCIAL Jason Pham CINEMATOGRAPHER David Stewart CAMERA Darren Rayner HOSTS Claire Challen, Martha Lee, Edith Rosza, Larisa Yurkiw
stratovolcanoes and the culture that surrounds them. And senior writer Michael Mastarciyan takes readers on a journey in time after his visit to Kandersteg, Switzerland, where villagers and travellers turn the clock back to the 19th century in a lavish spectacle of old-style skiing (“Belle Époque”). My favourite aspect of exploration is that it never ends. When it comes to skiing, there are too many mountains and too much snow for the journey to come to a close. Skiing is the
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Gordie Bowles, editor
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Photo by: Trevor Brady
spirit of exploration, distilled. There are no borders and no rules: only your imagination.
// FIRST LOAD
>People, news, gadgets and other chairlift ramblings
// LIFESTYLE
UPGRADE YOUR APRÈS Sure, any brandy will warm your bones after a day on the slopes – but some occasions call for an ungraded après.
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ICHARD HENNESSY COGNAC ($4,680 BC/$6,585 ONTARIO) is made from eaux-de-vies – literally translated as waters of life – up to 200 years old, bottled in an individually numbered carafe of handblown crystal. The pre-1860s components are valuable not just because they’re old: They’re made from varietals lost forever when a pesky little bug called phylloxera ate its way through France’s vineyards 150 years ago. Imbibers, take note: Experts recommend drinking the good stuff from a tulip-shaped glass with a stem – though there’s no shame in serving a younger (read: less pricey) cognac over ice. – C. Newberry
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FIRST LOAD // GEAR
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FAB FABRICS TO STAY WARM AND DRY
Skiing exists at the crossroads of fit, fashion and function. Outerwemar tags feature schematic drawings and plenty of trademarks, but what does it all mean? – S.Threndyle
put to the test Our jacket picks for these top five fabrics
1. GORE-TEX
2. NEOSHELLz
GORE-TEX jacket: Cut a bit roomier than other Arc’teryx pieces, the Arc’teryx Fissile ($1,100) is a fullfeatured winter-beater jacket with triple-layer Gore-Tex to repel even Coast Range wind and heavy snow while baffles of premium European down keep you toasty.
NEOSHELL jacket: When you first pick up the Apoc jacket ($520) made by East Vancouver’s Westcomb, you might not believe it could protect against the elements. But it can, and does, combining outstanding breathability and freedom of motion. Wear it as a shell or fleece pullover.
Made from a thin membrane sandwiched between a face fabric and a backer, Gore-Tex promises to protect against the elements – even lashing rain – while letting out perspiration. Water beads off a Gore-Tex surface thanks to an invisible coating known as Durable Water Repellant (DWR). Used by hundreds of brands all over the world, Gore-Tex shows up in footwear, gloves and headgear.
Developed by Polartec (the company behind polar fleece), air-permeable NeoShell is thinner (some might say flimsier) than GoreTex, with some stretch for freedom of movement, making it one of the lighter and quieter options.
3. HELLY TECH
Helly Hansen also gets in on the proprietary waterproof breathable fabric scene with Helly Tech. The company is the exclusive clothing supplier for Fernie Alpine Resort’s pro patrol, who truly put their gear through the most severe testing environments anywhere in the world.
HELLY TECH jacket: The Backbowl jacket ($525) incorporates a new super-breathable system called H²FLOW and comes insulated with chill-busting PrimaLoft.
4. OMNI-TECH
Columbia offers incredibly good value for money with its proprietary waterproof breathable fabric. It does the job admirably well at a fraction of the cost of Gore-Tex Pro Shell, for instance.
OMNI-TECH jacket: Columbia’s Bugaboo 3 in 1 jacket ($250) remains one-of-a-kind in versatile skiwear. The full zip-out fleece jacket, which has been upgraded with Columbia’s proprietary Omni-Heat reflective dots, can be worn alone, as can the OmniTech exterior jacket.
5. G-1000
Norwegian manufacturer Fjällräven references historic milestones (think Polar explorers) with its proprietary G-1000 – a blend of tightly woven polyester and organic cotton treated with waterrepellent wax. While the fabric has the texture and feel of aged denim, the durability is outstanding – many jackets get passed on from one generation down to the next.
G-1000 jacket: Show up on the slopes wearing a Fjällräven Smock One ($749) and people might ask if you’re heading to the North Pole. Boasting so many pockets that you might forget exactly where your power gels are stored, the Smock One can turn heads in an urban environment, too.
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FIRST LOAD // GEAR
the prettiest things
LINE SIR FRANCIS BACON Eric Pollard – a creative superstar on and off the snow – has been a Line-sponsored skier since 1997 and the artist behind the top sheets of his pro model skis since 2003. Look closely at this big mountain ski: the art is both subtle and detailed.
Don’t judge a book by its cover. It’s what’s on the inside that counts. Whatever! When it comes to skis, most of us are suckers for looks. That’s why they line them up on the showroom floor: it’s a beauty pageant. In an effort to win – translation: get us to buy their boards – creative brands don’t settle for anything less than art. Here are our critical picks for best top sheets of the year. – R.Stuart
ARMADA ARV 106 Armada uses original artwork for all their top sheets, including this one on the ARV 106, their new all-purpose tool. The modern psychedelic scene is adapted from a building mural by California artist MADSTEEZ.
ICELANTIC VANGUARD A co-founder of the Colorado-based brand, Travis Parr is also the artist behind the fantasy-inspired graphics gracing every ski. The snow monkeys on this year’s Vanguard, a touring ski, may not howl, but they do jump out.
93 NORTH ANDROMEDA This rookie ski maker out of Canmore, Alberta, tapped Calgary artist Emily Beaudoin to create the Rocky Mountain– inspired bighorn ram skull and mountain scene for its first model.
PRIOR PATROLLER All the possible top sheet options for Whistler-based Prior’s custom-made boards are original artwork. All are awesome, but we think this First Nations– themed whale might be the best yet.
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FIRST LOAD // GEAR
Photo: Jonathan Selkowitz
Bomber’s Artist Series skis feature artwork from Jean-Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring. This Keith Haring Red Snake Ski ($2,500) is the allmountain version of Bode Miller’s race ski.
Bode Miller
DAVID VS. GOLIATH: Will the Bomber fly at the World Cup?
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N STEP WITH THE TRENDS in craft beer making and vacuum tube amplifiers, ski manufacturing is splintering away from mainstream brands – like Head, Rossignol and Volkl/K2 – to small, niche companies that might only turn out a few hundred pairs of skis each year. But can these smaller companies build truly world-class product that can survive the rigors of World Cup racing, ski cross and mogul competition? If Bode Miller returns to the World Cup circuit (and perhaps more importantly, a sixth Olympic Games) in 2017/2018, we might have a definitive answer. Miller retired after the 2015 world championships in Vail to begin development – as both an
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investor and ambassador – for Bomber Ski, a business venture started by Robert Siegel and KT Stallings Bren. Miller had been under contract to Head, but the Austrian company released him on the condition that he not race on Bomber for two years. Though he’s been spotted skiing in South America and horsing around with his kids in Aspen, Miller has not seriously raced since 2015 and is now 40 years of age. Handcrafted in northern Italy, Bomber skis are available in the Canadian and American national team equipment pools, but no one would attract more attention to them than Miller, whose uniquely hell-bent racing style would certainly put these skis to the test. The United States Ski Team, well aware of the publicity that a Miller return would generate, says Miller is free to return to the team regardless of which brand he races on. In terms of business model, Bomber might want to emulate Swiss-made Stöckli or Japan’s ID One skis. Started by Josef Stöckli in 1935, Stöckli finally gained accep-
tance to the Swiss equipment pool in 1994 after dominating Swiss provincial races for many years. Since then, Stöckli has enjoyed considerable success in World Cup slalom, giant slalom and ski cross races. Bona fide stars like Switzerland’s Tina Maze and Canada’s Ashleigh McIvor and Chris del Bosco have waved Stöckli skis on many a podium, but the company was hardly what you would call an overnight success. While top female skiers win on Stöckli, acceptance has been challenging on the men’s side. ID One, a tiny niche maker of handcrafted skis, has dominated World Cup freestyle podiums for decades. Five-time World Cup mogul champion Mikael Kingsbury of Sainte-Agathe-Des-Monts, Quebec, is one of their best-known skiers. Intriguingly, Bomber is also advertising a handmade World Cup–ready mogul ski – the A-10 – for the rather princely sum of US$1,900. So, Bomber might well make it onto the World Cup circuit – Bode Miller or not. – S.Threndyle The most entertaining ski racer of all time, Bode Miller’s “best crash” videos never get old. Google “Bode Miller crash 2015” to check out this beauty.
FIRST LOAD // LIFESTYLE HISTORY EMBRACED Renowned B.C. architect Francis Rattenbury designed the Empress Hotel and the B.C. Legislature in Victoria before turning his attention to Rossland, B.C., where he designed the ornate Bank of Montreal building in 1898. BMO vacated the premises years ago, but the building is still in use, with retailers and professional services on the first floor and residential suites above.
A-FRAME ART While A-frame architecture gets all of the retro love on Pinterest and Instagram, the Gothic Arch cabin should not be forgotten.
MOUNTAIN INSPIRATIONS Mountain town architecture ranges from starkly functional (the ubiquitous A-frame) to Hollywood ostentatious (think Playboy Playmate Barbi Benton’s 28,000-square-foot Aspen funhouse). From log cabins to post-modern models of earth-friendly efficiency, the mountains offer inspiring terrain for architects and home builders to do their best work.– S. Threndyle
HOLLYWOOD MINIMALISTIC In the 1970s and ‘80s, “bigger is better” was definitely the motto in Aspen, Colorado – especially in movie star enclaves like Starwood and below Red Mountain. But these days, as the resort seeks to become a world leader in environmentally conscious design, the One Aspen townhouses celebrate modern minimalism with picture windows, metal detailing and natural Colorado stone.
ROAMING AND RUSTIC The hot tub, fireplaces and rough-hewn floors keep things cozy at this 10,000-square-foot log and stone home at Indian Springs Ranch in Jackson Hole, Wyoming,while the theatre, wine room and gym are a nod to the modern ski lifestyle.
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FIRST LOAD // LIFESTYLE
Après Takes Flight
Ever wanted to take a luxe Canadian ski trip with 57 of your closest friends – or host the ultimate corporate retreat? Enter the Après in the Air package from Fairmont Hotels & Resorts and Air Canada, which takes the après experience to 30,000 feet. Air Canada Jetz has transformed a 58-seat private charter business class plane into a ski chalet in the sky, so you can fly to your ski holiday in cozy winter style with a cocktail in hand.
Fairmont and Air Canada launched the Après in the Air package with a special preview trip hosted by former Bachelorette star Kaitlyn Bristowe.
Your iconic Canadian adventure will see you hit the slopes at Mount Tremblant, skate the Rideau Canal in the nation’s capital and lounge in the spa at the world’s largest log cabin in Montebello, Quebec. For bonus Canuck points, try your hand at such True North activities as snowmobiling, ice fishing and curling. Fancy a horse-drawn sleigh ride? Your chariot awaits. Featuring luxury stays at the Fairmont Château Laurier in Ottawa, Fairmont Le 18 S–MAGAZINE | SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM
Château Montebello and Fairmont Tremblant, this ultimate celebration of the Canadian winter includes private round-trip après-chic jet charter, world-class meals from Fairmont executive chefs Louis Simard, Tim Wasylko and Éric Beaupré, and a customized itinerary packed with as many all-Canadian activities as your group can handle. Oh Canada, indeed. Available until December 31, Après in in the Air packages for groups of up to 58 people start at $300,000. – C. Newberry fairmont.com/americas/apres-in-the-air
FIRST LOAD // LIFESTYLE
Get Mushy
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Wyoming Office of Tourism
Why sit back under a blanket when you can experience the thrill of driving your own sled dog team as you fly through the snow? Take the reins and hold on tight.
DOG SLED ADVENTURES: GOLDEN, B.C. 1 GOLDEN
With a small kennel of just 14 Siberian and Alaskan huskies, owner Matt Parr knows the personality of every member of his two sled-pulling teams—and he wants you to get to know them, too. Each tour begins with hands-on dog time as you meet your team and help get them harnessed up. You’ll ride in the sled and learn the mushing commands before taking your turn at the reins. Feeling romantic? Try the moonlight tour—a popular option for proposals.
OWL SLED DOG TOURS: CANMORE, ALBERTA 2 SNOWY
Connie Arsenault and her family have been running sled dog tours
with their team bred from Canadian Inuit huskies, Siberians and Alaskan Malamutes for nearly 35 years. After extensive exploration of Spray Lakes Provincial Park to ensure the sledding trails would not impact wildlife, Snowy Owl became the first to offer sled dog tours in an Alberta park. They design and manufacture their guest-driven sleds in-house, and provide extensive instruction before leading you out on the trail. Packages include round-trip transportation from Banff.
3 BASEMONTANACAMP BIGFORK: BIGFORK,
Located between Whitefish Mountain Resort and Blacktail Mountain Ski Area, this small, family-run operation is home
to 19 Inuit Sled Dogs. Husbandand-wife owners Mark and Samantha Schurke offer packages ranging from three hours to several days, with the chance to journey deep into the Montana backcountry and camp alongside the dogs as you develop your mushing skills.
HOLE IDITAROD SLED DOG TOURS: JACKSON, WYOMING 4 JACKSON
Iditarod veteran Frank Teasley has been a professional dog musher for decades. You’ll meet his team of Alaskan racing sled dogs and learn the basic mushing commands before leading the dogs out into the wild. Full-day adventures head to Granite Hot Springs, accessible only by over-snow travel. After a warm
dip, you’ll eat a hot lunch in the snow before making your return journey.
ACTIVITY CENTRE: MONT-TREMBLANT, QUEBEC 5 TREMBLANT
A certified member of Aventure Ecotourisme Quebec, Tremblant Activity Centre offers several dog sledding options at and near the resort, including transportation. Drive your team through peaceful forest trails or over a frozen lake with views of Mont Tremblant on a tour through fast-paced valley and mountain trails – think of it as nature’s roller coaster. Staff at Tremblant Activity Centre, right at the base of the ski slopes, can connect you with the best option for your preferences and fitness level. – C. Newberry
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FIRST LOAD // RESORTS SilverStar resort is upgrading its Summit Chair with an eight-person gondola
RESORT ROUNDUP Just as the snow begins to melt and minds shift to warm-weather activities, ski resorts across the country start working on making next winter better than the last. This year, the “new” begins with lifts and extends to owning a piece of the mountain. Probably the biggest infrastructure changes involve two iconic double chairs. Mechanics at Whitewater, near Nelson, spent the summer replacing the original Summit Chair, installed in 1976, with a fixed grip quad chair. The move will double uphill capacity on the resort’s signature face. SilverStar goes one better, replacing its 47-year-old Summit Chair with a Doppelmayr eight-person gondola. Running from the village to the resort’s summit, it speeds access across the 20 S–MAGAZINE | SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM
mountain. And it’s just the beginning of the big news at the resort, which celebrates its 60th anniversary this year. Celebrations will take many forms throughout the winter. Revelstoke Mountain Resort also celebrates a milestone birthday by adding uphill capacity. For its 10th anniversary RMR is adding 24 cabins on the Revelation Gondola and 21 chairs to the Stoke Chair, increasing lift capacity by 25 per cent. The biggest trend in snow country, though, aims to fulfill appetites for…well…food, with investments in new and improved day lodges and restaurants across the west. Sun Peaks doubled lunch capacity at both its mid-mountain Sundance Lodge and base area Bento’s Day Lodge. On sunny days, the patio at Whistler’s upper mountain Roundhouse Lodge will be the place to be this winter with two new decked areas and the addition of the Whisky Jack’s Umbrella Bar. And Whitewater has doubled down on food-focused renos. They reworked the floor plan of their original Day Lodge, built by volunteers back in the day, adding new food services and a family play area. And at the
backside Glory Chair base, the food truck pulled away in favour of an indoor eating experience. Both promise to maintain the top-notch food Whitewater is famous for. Better indoor experiences are in the future for Red Mountain skiers, too, after 3,435 people joined CEO Howard Katkov as owners of the resort. The non-controlling share project raised more than $12 million, surpassing the resort’s $10-million goal. The money will go to new lodges and cabins and more improvements. Finally, the effects of Vail Resorts’ acquisition of Whistler Blackcomb continue. Beyond the new patios at Whistler, the resort is building a Skywalk feature on the summit of Whistler Mountain. Whistler Blackcomb also joins Vail’s other resorts and ski hills around the world on the Epic Pass. The cost of admission to 45 resorts is US$859 (approximately C$1,117). An Unlimited Pass for WB, including unrestricted lift access and discounts on food, retail and heli-skiing, costs $1,229. For a place famous as always being on the cutting edge, that’s one trend no one will complain about. – R. Stuart
FIRST LOAD // AUTO
PUT IT ON THE ROOF Don’t be the guy who puts skis inside the car, soaking the storage area, scratching the interior and leaving friends and family behind because the back seat is folded down. For every ride, there’s a perfect rack for loading skis on the roof. – R. Stuart BEST FOR PIG PEN Leave road grime worries in your dust with the Thule SnowPack Extender. Up to six sets of skis fit on the large rack. Normally that would mean leaning up against the vehicle to reach the far side, but the Extender slides to the edge of the car for easy loading and unloading. $340 | thule.com BEST FOR BIG FAMILIES Even the Dionne quintuplets could get to the hill in one car with the Rhino Rack Master Fit 550L Cargo Box. Six pairs of skis, plus boots and gear, can fit in the 550 litres or 19 square feet of room inside the impact-resistant shell. $850 | rhinorack.ca BEST FOR PARKING GARAGES Where most roof boxes stop an SUV at the entrance to a parking garage, the Yakima Skybox Lo limbos on by. It’s more than 10 centimetres thinner than most boxes but still brags 15 cubic feet of cargo space. $740 | yakima.com BEST FOR BALD CARS You don’t need to add crossbars to carry skis on the roof with the SeaSucker Ski Rack. Fifteen-centimetre-wide suction cups vacuum mount onto any smooth section of roof without leaving a mark. The 60-centimetre-wide racks hold up to three skis. US$395 | seersucker.com
WINTER TIRE ADVICE Some provinces require them in ski country, some don’t; regardless, the advice from the experts is that every skier should use certified winter tires. – R. Stuart
The three-peaked mountain and snowflake symbol signals the tires are made from a softer rubber compound with snow and ice– specific tread to increase traction and control. They’re recommended as soon as the thermometer drops below 7 C, a threshold where all-season tire rubber starts to stiffen and not grip as well. Mount them on their own rims to cut cost in the long run and extend the life of the tires. When it comes to actually picking a specific four, it all comes down to location, says Paul McAlduff, president of the Western Canada Tire Dealers Association. The options generally break down into five categories, each with its own pros and cons.
RECOMMENDED FOR: Those who don’t want to swap out their winter and summer tires.
ICE Thin slices in the traction, called siping, move snow and water out of the way and create microsuction to ice and pavement. PRO: Best ice grip. CONS: Wears faster, not as much grip in snow. RECOMMENDED FOR: Colder places like Calgary and the Prairies and mild areas like coastal B.C.
HYBRID A hybrid tire combines snow and ice characteristics. PRO: Good snow and ice performance. CON: Not as good as either specialty tire. RECOMMENDED FOR: Weekend warriors in B.C., Ontario and most of Quebec.
SNOW Snow tires have some siping, like ice tires, but with more aggressive traction for digging through snow. PRO: Best traction in deeper snow and slush. CON: Not as good on ice. RECOMMENDED FOR: Snow belts like the B.C. Interior and eastern Quebec.
ALL-WEATHER This is a new category of tire that melds the tread life of an all-season and the winter certification of a winter tire. PROS: No need to swap out tires in the summer; solid winter tire performance. CONS: 25 per cent more expensive; tread won’t last as long as an all-season tire; limited tire sizes available.
STUDS Metal pins attached to the tire increase ice grip. PRO: Excellent packed snow and ice performance. CON: Restricted use in many areas. RECOMMENDED FOR: Gnarly driveways and rugged mountain roads.
CHAINS Cables or chain wrap around the tire. PRO: Excellent emergency situation traction. CONS: Have to stop to put them on; not a replacement for winter tires. RECOMMENDED FOR: Just-incase use when conditions get extreme, especially hardpacked ice.
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CANADA
IMPECCABLY RUN P OWDER SKIING FINER DETAILS FOR A SNOW OUTFI -FILLED T FOCU ADVEN SES ON THE TURE BY ED
ITH RO ZSA. PH OTOS BY BRUNO LONG
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THERE’S NO BETTER PLACE TO BE THAN BREAKING THROUGH EARLY MORNING VALLEY FOG TO PRISTINE BLOWER POWDER ONTO A RUN CALLED TOP OF THE WORLD; SNOWMOBILES WERE ONCE THE MODE OF GUEST TRANSPORT FROM THE PARKING LOT TO THE TSUIUS LODGE. TODAY A SNOW CAT DELIVERS GUESTS WHILE SNOWMOBILES DELIVER GOODS AND MOVE STAFF AROUND THE MOUNTAINS EFFICIENTLY.
This felt like the trip of a lifetime. It might have had something to do with the -22 C temperature and overnight warming temps that brought the mother of all storms rumbling in, slamming into the West Coast and the Monashee Mountain Range. The windshield face shots along the 45-kilometre drive from the edge of Sugar Lake to the snowcat pickup were as good an indication as any that the timing to drop into Monashee Powder Snowcats, also known as MPS, was impeccable.
LIKE HOME
Arrival at the Tsuius Lodge after travelling 30 minutes in the snowcat with future ski friends felt like a homecoming of sorts. Carolyn and Tom Morgan welcomed us with hugs and “How are the kids,” while their son Gary and daughter-in-law Keaton embraced us with bright smiles and mirrored warmth. Head guide Karl, lead guide Joe, photographer Colleen and the rest of the team have all adopted the mountain haven that Tom and Carolyn have built as home – some have been part of this mountain family for more than 13 years. More hands make lighter work, so staff and guests stood shoulder to shoulder chattering away excitedly while passing groceries, ski bags and duffel bags along the human train from snowcat to
kitchen and drying room. Then it was into the main lodge through the covered walk, past the guides’ room, kicking off boots before heading upstairs for the safety talk, a big focus here at MPS. Karl Klassen heads up the safety program, covering a part of backcountry skiing that is somewhat elusive to me, and I was happy to pay for the expertise. Karl is the chief avalanche forecaster for the Canadian Avalanche Association, and I felt confident knowing that I would get to have the time of my life without a worry, skiing safely with his guidance. Rooms at most cat ski operations provide everything you need in a no-frills way, so the mark of a first-class operation is the food. The Red Seal chefs at the helm here – Dave Simenoff, who towers at nearly seven feet tall, and Annie Beulah – could surely have their pick of kitchens to please any gourmand. Add Fiona Coupland, the resident baker, to the mix, and you have a medley of healthy flavours and textures to make your salivary glands erupt. Impact, sustainability and footprint are words holding great weight at MPS, and I was consistently impressed by the zero-waste philosophy modelled by the owners. When I commented on the delicious pepperoni and sausage at lunch, Carolyn explained that the meat cuttings left over from food preparation are frozen and then transported to the local butcher, who repurposes them for consumption. The containers used to pack your lunch are disposed
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: GUESTS CHOMPING AT THE BIT, GETTING READY FOR THE ACTION; IT IS NOT A RACE OUT HERE – THE NEXT GROUP ISN’T GOING TO POACH YOUR LINE; BUT IT IS A RACE TO THE HOT TUB TO STEAL JUST A MOMENT TO SOAK IN THE TRANQUILITY OF THIS PLACE.
of in clearly labelled bins at day’s end, and are sorted, cleaned and ready to use again tomorrow – zero waste. Even on the hill, trees are left where they are and only Mother Nature can change the shape of the mountain in a permanent way.
LEAGUE OF THEIR OWN
While MPS is in the Pacific time zone, they run on mountain time, playing by their own rules in a world of their own. This lets guests get an earlier start to their day and win some time back when they head home. Any avid skier can imagine the energy that exists after a clean mountain air sleep in a snowed-in, predominantly testosterone-filled mountain lodge (although this 26 S–MAGAZINE | SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM
is slowly changing as more women build confidence on their boards). There are only so many cups of coffee you can drink while waiting for it to be time to boot-up and leave the electronics behind for the day – bliss. This was a trip of many firsts: My first time skiing 70 centimetres of fresh, stable powder snow. And my first time choosing the wrong equipment for those conditions. Yup, those 95mm underfoot, 170cm boards sunk the moment I stepped into the bindings, leaving me anchored there. It is not often that I feel like a rookie in the mountains anymore, but this was one of those times. I had not thought that super-fat boards were relevant for little 125-pound me. I thought I would always float, but with that much snow, the guides had to call in the
big boys. Within 15 minutes, a snowmobile arrived with my new skis for the day, a burly 115mm underfoot and 185cm long: perfect. Karl led our pack of drooling skiers to the first pitch and offered instruction, demanding that everyone pay attention in a way that only a seasoned guide can do. His demeanour and tone suggested that this could be our best day ever, depending on how well the group followed his directions. After all, he was in charge of getting everyone home safely, a massive responsibility. Reaching from the 1,600-metre elevation at the lodge to the highest run at 2,500 metres, a 5-kilometre-high by 11-kilometrewide playground waited for us untouched. Add two cats and 24 people (the maximum per day) skiing that terrain, and you are
virtually guaranteed fresh tracks every run. And have I mentioned that it snows a lot here? Early in the season? All six of my visits to Monashee have been in early-tomid December, and snow has always been epic.
USE THE SMART METER
Karl was ready to release us on the first of many runs. He outlined our terrain parameters and meeting points, gesticulated comically with his poles about how our smart meter (head) and our fun meter (groin region – use your imagination) needed to align for fun and safety. Then we were off in pairs with our buddies. Generally, when the snowpack is this deep, it lacks stability, so you ski flatter terrain to avoid risking an avalanche. But because the lower layers of snow and this new snowfall had bonded to the existing snow, we were able to ski very steep terrain, a skier’s dream. Within the next run or two, Karl was offering options for drops of one to nine metres. Some of our ego-filled crew blasted off, and if there ever was a time to “huck your meat,” this was it. The landings appeared shocking to some as they watched the jumpers all but disappear, only to reappear below their bomb holes covered in snow and smiles. Gary often led the charge in his own backyard. Run after run, our cat full of keen skiers shared stories of past skiing adventures and their last runs, chattering incessantly with the excitement of young children. Then it was out into the fresh mountain air for each of us to recreate our last best run, possibly to top the cliff we just dropped, the face shots we inhaled, or simply to return to that place that reminded us of how lucky we were to be deep in the Monashee Mountains. As the cat lumbered back to the lodge at day’s end, I imagined how complete my day would be once I sank into the hot tub buried deep in the snow, flanked by the lodge on one side and forests and mountains the other. With tired muscles relaxing in the warm water, I would reflect on my best day ever. And then I remembered: I could do this all over again tomorrow! TOP: DON’T FORGET THE HUMOUR. BELOW: WITH RED SEAL CHEFS AT THE HELM, THE EXQUISITE, MULTI-COURSE MEALS ARE THOUGHTFULLY PREPARED TO ACCOMMODATE ALL TASTES USING LOCAL FARM-TO-TABLE FRESHNESS WHERE POSSIBLE.
U.S.A
Above the
Clouds Oregon stratovolcanoes Mt. Bachelor and Mt. Hood take skiers to great heights in the High Cascades ‌ and then there’s the yummy Oregon beer! By Gordie Bowles. Photos by Paul Morrison
This page: The author dropping in the West Bowls at Mt. Bachelor, on a gladed run that leads to a long cat track back to the lift. Opposite page: Mt. Bachelor on a crisp, cold morning.
Bend/Mount Bachelor
CHASING THE CLOUDS The last time I visited Bend and skied Mt. Bachelor, the snowbanks were easily this tall. I love it when I can’t see the houses as I’m driving by. But that was 1993 – and it was also the last time this gem of a ski town had this much snow, according to a local I met at the Crow’s Feet Commons, one of the many hipster cafés and world-class microbreweries in this central Oregon city.
So it must be me, right? Bend loves me. And I love it right back. When you hit it right here, the abundance of snow in the High Cascades is overwhelming. Roofs collapse, schools shut down and roads close, interrupting food and mail shipments (yes, mail still matters). Towtruck companies operate at capacity, and locals are generally frothing at the mouth to hit this beast of a mountain, the stratovolcano that dominates Bend’s horizon. When our crew arrived, it was late and we were travel weary, with minimal brain activity. I’m not sure I even noticed temps were hovering in the -20 C range until the next morning. Our digs for two days in Bend – at the boutique-style hotel at the Tetherow Golf Resort – were crazy nice. The kind of nice where you don’t want to fall asleep because you haven’t tried on the luxurious hydro-cotton bathrobe or lounged on the leather sofa in front of the pre-made fire. But this night, the smell of honey and lavender from the soap would have to suffice as I drifted off. The storm was still relatively fierce the next morning, but we slowly made our way up the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway to the ski resort, settling into our first ride up around 10 a.m. How lame of us – the locals had already pounded run after run after run for two hours by the time we arrived. But where were the tracks? We skied pow all day long and I hardly saw a line. It’s almost as if Mother Nature came out with a Zamboni every hour to make everything perfect again. I had a unique sensation when I reached the top of Bachelor. Skiing on a volcano with 360 degrees of access is something to behold. I have this odd habit of letting my mind drift in these moments to wonder what the pioneers thought of the view when they “discovered” this perspective.
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But we were on the clock, with both TV and print crews in tow, so we decided to divide and conquer. Stirling Cobb, the resort’s marketing manager, was showing us the mountain, and from his appearance I knew we were in for a rip. He had big fat skis, tattered and worn poles and an eager look that said, “Enough chatter – let’s go.” My type of skier. Esteemed ski photographer Paul Morrison and I spent the next few hours with Stirling, randomly pointing to pockets and pillows of snow on the vast mountain and asking Stirling, “How about there?” “Sure,” he’d say. For the remainder of the day, “sure” was our segue to the next pocket, the next ridge, the next pile of snow so deep it was ridiculous. “Tough job, eh, Stirling?” Yup. The skiing here funnels all skiers and riders to the same cat track at the bottom, so it’s pretty hard to get lost. There’s no cliffing-out, like in Whistler or Jackson Hole – Bachelor is not that kind of mountain. The trees can be deceiving, at times appearing too congested but nearly always skiable. Two days here was the blink of an eye. You really need much more time to properly cover this mountain – we weren’t even able to get over to the newly opened Cloudchaser, a $6 million lift that added another 635 acres to the skiing options and transformed Mt. Bachelor into the fifth-largest ski area in the United States. Still, it was time to move on to our next Oregon adventure stop. But first, another quick visit to Bend. It would be sacrilege not to stop at Deschutes Brewery, or any of the 22 such establishments in this town of 90,000. The Deschutes, named after the iconic river that winds around and through Bend, is the gold standard for high-quality craft beer. I remember from my days at Central Oregon College in the early ‘90s that the classics here – such as the Black Butte Porter and Mirror Pond Pale Ale – are impressive, but the seasonals are equally up to the task. I tried Jubelale, a somewhat spicy and robust ale that paired really well with a mushroom and truffle pie. Life is good. (Side note: the great thing about travelling with a crew is there are always designated driver options. Rock, paper, scissors!) 32 S–MAGAZINE | SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM
Timberline Lodge HERE’S JOHNNY As we drove north out of Bend past Smith Rock towards that other volcanic monstrosity, Mt. Hood, conversations circled around The Shining. Stanley Kubrick’s 1980 cult film was partially filmed at Timberline Lodge, our home for the next two days. You know it: “All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy.” As we got to the base of Mt. Hood, it was pitch black outside and the wind was howling. “It’s kind of windy,” Paul stated. It was a surreal moment, actually, winding up the road with odd-looking moss creatures blowing across, until we eventually pulled into the Timberline Lodge parking lot at 6,000 feet. It felt like our SUV was about to take off, Gordie and Paul never to be heard from again. I opened the door and the wind grabbed hold of it (and me) and took control. One of my gloves (my favourite gloves, of course) was sucked out of the vehicle and shot into space. I mean gone. “See you inside,” I screamed to Paul as I scrambled to the lodge entrance. I’m a west coaster and have spent considerable time on the ocean – I know wind – but this was something else. I checked into my quaint wood-panelled room and felt like I had stepped into a bygone era. History oozed from every nook and cranny. I pulled out my iPhone but it felt wrong in my hand, so into the drawer it went as I reached for The Oregonian newspaper instead. The next morning, I awoke feeling very cold, and as I looked toward the window I noticed four inches of snow inside my room. The wind was so severe throughout the night – reaching more than 200 kilometres per hour – that snow was finding its way through even the most microscopic of cracks. The mountain was a mess. Car windows were broken (a Thule box was ripped from a truck) and the concierge said the ski hill would be closed for the day. This is not a regular occurrence here – when I spoke with Frank, the manager since the early 1980s, he mentioned this was the worst windstorm that he could remember. Then he had someone promptly clear the snow from my room (13 shovels full!).
Clockwise from top left: The Pine Tavern in Bend, Oregon; The Crow’s Feet Commons near the Deschutes River; The magnificent 90-foot stone fireplace at the Timberline Lodge; Wood and iron details at the Timberline; The morning after an extreme storm; Goody’s Soda Fountain & Candy store in Bend.
This page: The top of Mt. Hood, from the Cascade Dining room at the Timberline Lodge. Opposite page: The author skiing in front of the Timberline Lodge; Martha Lee cozies up with Heidi, the St. Bernard, near the Silcox Lodge; Martha carving on lower Mt. Hood.
So, we were grounded. At breakfast, the crew reconvened and quickly realized the opportunity before us. The building we were “stuck” in for the day could perhaps be the most remarkable piece of architectural art this side of the Rockies. There’s nothing like it. Constructed during the Great Depression as part of President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Works Progress Administration (WPA) program, the lodge is still functioning as it was originally intended: as a place for visitors to experience Oregon, a true mountain retreat to enjoy. WPA construction in the 1930s provided jobs for the unemployed – with skilled workers receiving $0.90 per hour and unskilled workers $0.55. Crafts included both carved and inlaid wood, wrought iron, weaving, ornamental needlework, painting, mosaics, carved linoleum and stained glass. We spent the day admiring the Cascadian architecture, complete with the finest details of wood and ironwork, the fruits of those labours. The main headhouse lobby has three fireplaces surrounding the base of a 900-foot chimney. It was an incredible day of admiring real and lasting art. But it was also time to ski again. POSTCARD PERFECT With the previous day’s storm cleared and gone, the calm of the next morning was equally eerie, at least for a few moments. It was peaceful and quiet; the contrast of the pristine white mountain on the deep-blue sky the stuff of postcards. The skiing on the upper-middle part of this volcano was flowing and cruisy. (Skiing on the upper mountain is mostly for the summer months; the lifts are easily buried under the snow during winter.) The mostly intermediate trails are not the place to break your ski records, but instead a place to find your rhythm and enjoy skiing as a leisurely activity. It’s a family-owned-and-operated outfit, and it shows, catering to all ages, big and small. One fun spot to discover, about mid-mountain, is the Phlox Point Cabin, a tiny but stunning one-room cabin that serves tacos and beer – with an inviting open fire near the entrance. The incredible Mt. Hood shares its skiing among a few different ski operations, including Mt. Hood Skibowl, the ultimate night-ski option in Oregon, and Mt. Hood
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Meadows, with its big mountain terrain over 2,150 skiable acres, 12 lifts and 85 trails. When you travel here, there are options. APRÉS WITH A VIEW! Our day of skiing at Timberline concluded with a very sweet cherry on the top. Our host, John Burton, the director of marketing, met us at the Timberline Lodge with his world-famous co-host, Heidi, the adorable St. Bernard. Heidi comes from a long line of St. Bernards that are as much a part of the Timberline experience as the timber, iron and snow. Heidi happily jumped aboard the snowcat (after a bit of coaxing by our crew) and we were off, up the mountain to the Silcox Hut. Dubbed a bed and breakfast lodge, to me it’s more of a historical gem that epitomizes the Mt. Hood experience. Rustic and elegant, Silcox is the ultimate place for a retreat or wedding – or simply to sip a glass of Oregon wine at 7,000 feet, alongside a fluffy 150-pound St. Bernard, like we did.
Portlandia
Top: Portland is stunning both day and night. Bottom: Martha enjoying Portland’s many culinary and shopping opportunities.
SUSTAINABLE HAPPINESS The drive to Portland from Mt. Hood is painless and reasonably quick (about 90 minutes). Arriving in this city – easily the coolest on the West Coast (and that’s coming from a Vancouver snob!) – the energy is of progression, eco-friendliness, intelligence and culture. The neighbourhoods are vibrant and diverse, packed with eclectic shops, hipster cafés and bike-friendly paths mixed in with the eye-grabbing architecture. Our crew knew coming in that Portland was certainly a thing. We wanted to discover what all of the hubbub was about. So we set out on the hunt for the Pearl District, an area of town that could be compared to Vancouver’s Yaletown or Toronto’s Distillery District. The Pearl District is a revitalized neighbourhood of restored and reclaimed spaces like warehouses and railway yards. It’s now a swanky hub of loft living, design, stylish shopping, and high-class but approachable restaurants and art galleries. We started at Powell’s City of Books – the world’s largest independent bookstore (it covers an entire city block) – and then headed to the outdoor shopping area lined with local goods purveyors like MadeHere PDX, Nau and Poler Outdoor Stuff (think action sports meets street) and large brands like REI and Columbia Sportswear. Our heads were spinning. AND THEN THE FOOD! Named one of the best places to eat in North America by Food & Wine, and called “America’s new food Eden” by Time,
Portland is home to a creative, accessible culinary scene that goes to great lengths to serve fresh, innovative dishes using local ingredients. The city is situated at the northern end of the fertile Willamette Valley, and the close proximity to the Pacific Ocean, as well as rivers, lakes and open fields, yields plenty of fresh food. It has become one of the great centres of food production in the United States, with the agriculture industry in Oregon worth a whopping $5.4 billion. Portlanders eat locally raised foods year-round. Many farms and orchards in the region are open to the public, and within the city there are more than 20 open-air farmers markets, all carrying local (and mostly organic) produce, and regionally raised meats. This easy access to high-quality ingredients was likely one of the big attractions for the city’s award-winning and well-known chefs – such as Vitaly Paley of Paley’s Place and Imperial, and Greg Higgins of Higgins Restaurant. LIQUID ASSETS Craft beverages in the form of tea, beer, wine and coffee are practically national treasures here in Portland. The city’s abundant craft breweries have earned it the moniker Beervana. There are more breweries here than in any other city in the world, and four of the largest operating American micros – Widmer, Deschutes, Full Sail and BridgePort – all have headquarters or outposts in Portland. Beer experts stay on top of their game here, as new innovations are combined with the renewal of long-lost traditions. New brewers with reverence for the taste-making pioneers keep the tastes and variety equally high. And the coffee! A self-proclaimed coffee snob, I love a good cappuccino or espresso. A stop at Heart Coffee Roasters, where locals congregate, featured fresh roasts and quality pours. I was motivated and energized (hands shaking a little) after that stop. Speaking of quality hot beverages, the tea culture has taken hold in Portland, with tasting rooms featuring tea flights and draft teas on tap (you read that right). Wiz Bang Bar serves their blends of tea with soft-serve ice cream. Portland has life figured out! SAYONARA BEAVER STATE It was painful to leave this state of all things yummy and cool, but Oregon once again left an impression on me that took a while to shake. As the line from the sketch-comedy series Portlandia goes, “The dream of the ‘90s is alive in Portland.” I can’t precisely remember the ‘90s – and I was even in Oregon then – but if that’s the case, bring back the ‘90s!
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Photos courtesy Kanderstag Tourism
// ELEVATED LIVING
BELLE ÉPOQUE
Kandersteg, Switzerland, celebrates skiing’s history and tradition By Michael Mastarciyan
I
f you’re a fan of Westworld, the HBO television series about a fantasy theme park set in the 19th century, and are also enamoured with the splendours of winter in a big mountain setting, I’ve got some good news – and some more good news. First is the existence of a fairy-tale Swiss mountain resort called Kandersteg that turns the clock back to the late 19th century’s lavish Belle Époque period every year during the last week of January. It is a singularly amazing sight, with the entire town dressed up in long dresses and top hats, like extras on a Downton Abbey set. The second bit of good news is that thankfully, unlike in Westworld, no one in Kandersteg is a lifelike homicidal robot bent on killing tourists! After hearing tales of Kandersteg’s historically accurate slalom races using vintage wooden ski gear, I became intoxicated by the idea of time travelling
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back to the Belle Époque (which began around 1871 and ended in 1914 with the outbreak of the First World War). I couldn’t resist the notion of seeing what the sport dearest to my heart looked like in its infancy. In Westworld, thrill-seeking tourists enter the park by train, so I thought it would be fun to use the same 19th-century technology on my magical voyage back in time. After crossing through some of the most breathtaking snow-capped peaks the Swiss Alps have to offer, my train pulled into Kandersteg on a crisp and sunny Friday morning. Disembarking onto the platform, I was immediately drawn to an elegant woman in a floor-length dress, her shoulders swathed in mink fur and her blonde locks offset by the black lace and red roses covering a magnificent Victorian cartwheel hat. “Welcome to Belle Époque in beautiful Kandersteg,” she said with a soft-edged Swiss German accent. “I’m Livia Wyssen from Kandersteg Tourism, and I’ll be your time travel guide over the next few days.” After dropping me off at the Hotel Blümlisalp, a cozy, family-run establishment that sits in the shadow of the majestic alpine massif it’s named after, Lady Livia (as I would call her all weekend) suggested we ease into a late 19th-century mindset with an activity that was very popular during that age – a promenade around town on foot “to see and be seen.” But before going outside I would have to get into character. I chose to honour my wife’s Scottish great-grandfather William Hanna by wearing a kilt made from the family tartan. I accessorized as if I were a fin de siècle Highlander on a ski holiday in 1899, topping off my kilt with a reindeer-motif alpine sweater, a bright red tam o’ shanter wool cap, vintage-look brown leather hiking boots and an antique wooden ice climbing axe from a local costume shop as a walking stick. After promenading down Kandersteg’s main street – which is lined with some of the most impressive traditional Swiss chalets I’ve come across in my alpine travels – we popped into the town’s oldest inn for a little lunchtime sustenance. After filling ourselves with fondue and a most delicious Riesling-Silvaner white wine at the Restaurant Ritter, we walked to the edge of town to take in the classic Merihang ski race. This event is living history pure and simple, and an absolute must-see if you are a passionate skier interested in a first-hand look at the roots of the sport. After sashaying through a large crowd of spectators kitted out in their best Belle Époque finery at the bottom of a steep snow-covered slope, Lady Livia and I parked ourselves next to one of the town fathers, Hansueli Rieder. 42 S–MAGAZINE | SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM
THIS EVENT IS LIVING HISTORY PURE AND SIMPLE, AND AN ABSOLUTE MUST-SEE IF YOU ARE A PASSIONATE SKIER INTERESTED IN A FIRST-HAND LOOK AT THE ROOTS OF THE SPORT
OPENING PAGE: Swiss Alps Time Machine – the sleepy ski town of Kandersteg, Switzerland, turns the clock back to the late 19th century every January. OPPOSITE: A promenade “to see and be seen” in your Sunday best is a popular pastime during Belle Époque week; ABOVE: Merihang slalom race chief Hansueli Rieder sounds the sliver hunting horn. Wood, wool and leather – old-time ski racing calls for old-time gear in Kandersteg
A rugged-looking gentleman farmer with deep and ancient roots in this mountain community, Herr Rieder’s role in Kandersteg’s annual vintage ski racing celebration is that of Rennleiter, or what we would call Race Chief. Standing next to Herr Rieder was a spine-tingler for me. After decades of covering some of the most prestigious ski races in the world, from the Olympics to the famed Hahnenkamm and Lauberhorn, nothing has made my heart beat faster than standing next to this fine gentlemen signalling racers to start by blowing an old brass hunting horn. After marvelling at dozens of men,
women and children decked out in vintage wool sweaters, knickerbockers or long dirndl skirts, and giant-sized wooden skis manoeuvring and contorting around beautifully low-tech race gates made from tree branches and hand-sewn cloth panels, I thanked Herr Rieder’s for the front row seat. “You are most welcome,” he said in Swiss German. “And you must come back tomorrow night to see our Nachtslalom. It is racing by torchlight under the moon and stars, and it is very, very magical.” Ski racing. Torchlight. Moon and stars. Magical. Isn’t that what ski dreams are
made of? My first day in Kandersteg was very special – there is no doubting that. But things went from special to full-blown otherworldly in a flash when the sun set over the titanic peaks surrounding this sleepy little mountain hamlet. At 6 p.m., after a little rest and some late afternoon spa time at the Hotel Blümlisalp, I met Lady Livia at an outdoor skating rink in the centre of town for a little pre-dinner aperitif. Little did I know that the aperitif du jour was the green concoction known as absinthe – now legal after decades on both banned and most-wanted lists.
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ABOVE: Sign of the times – skiers rip like it’s 1899 in Kandersteg. LEFT: Antique hunters will find lots of treasure in this tiny alpine hamlet.
THE SUBDUED MELODY OF ANCIENT WOODEN SKIS SCHUSSING THROUGH SNOW ...
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When I began to prep for this trip, I rewatched my favourite film set during the Belle Époque era. The scene I’d always loved most from Francis Ford Coppola’s masterpiece Bram Stoker’s Dracula was the sexually charged absinthe-drinking psychedelic montage with Dracula and Mina. “Absinthe is the aphrodisiac of the self,” Dracula tells Mina as she drinks the aromatic anise-flavoured liqueur. “The green fairy who lives in the absinthe wants your soul, but you are safe with me.” I’m not worried about my soul, but I am concerned that future mountain holiday visits to drinking establishments will pale in
comparison to Kandersteg’s truly magical Bar Magique. Under the stars in a ghostly white tent lit by candles, a goth-like female bartender in a black top hat ministered the taps of a vintage crystal absinthe fountain. As I watched the cold water drip, drip, drip over a sugar cube sitting on a slotted silver spoon over a glass filled with absinthe, she looked into my eyes and could tell I was a novice. “Enjoy your drink tonight,” she said with a grin. “I’m sure you will have wonderful dreams.” Realizing one absinthe would be sufficient, Lady Livia and I headed out to dinner at Ruedihus, a top-notch local restaurant housed in another awe-inspiring Swiss chalet–style wooden building with one of the most intricately carved fronts imaginable. Dinner for me was an absinthe-induced blur, but it was excellent – or, at least, that’s what Lady Livia told me the next day when I asked her if I enjoyed my raclette. Day two was another bluebird winner for
It takes a vintage village to pull off a ski race like the Merihang slalom.
the memory bank. It started with a gondola ride up to the UNESCO Ice Walk, a very tourist-friendly winter hiking spot situated on the extremely scenic high alpine Oeschinensee Lake, which is a dead ringer for Lake Louise. After a selfie-taking orgy disguised as a 90-minute frozen lake trek in the Swiss Alps, and a hearty alpine lunch at the Berghotel Oeschinensee, we made our way back into town for Kandersteg’s annual bobsleigh race. This is also a must-do if you are fan of fun in wintertime. For a small fee, organizers let you rip down a handcrafted bobsled track on a vintage wooden sleigh driven by locals who are experts at having fun sliding down icy mountains on wood. My ride had all the thrills, chills and spills I could ask for, and my face hurt from the
glee-fuelled smile I couldn’t get rid of for the rest of the afternoon. After sunset, I headed back to the Merihang slalom course to see if Kandersteg had any more magic left to offer. I can confirm it did. The haunting calls of a brass hunting horn echoing through the dark peaks under a starry winter sky. The subdued melody of ancient wooden skis schussing through snow in the moonlight. The frantic eruption of cheers and ringing bells as the racers come into view on a ski track lit by firelight. The heart-warming, soul-affirming laughter as racers crash through the finish line. This is the magic of community, of sportsmanship, of memories, of tradition, but most of all, it’s a celebration of a past that’s gone but not forgotten – and I can’t wait to go back.
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// SKI FIT
ON the RUN
FEATURING CLAIRE CHALLEN
To actively participate in skiing, it’s imperative to be ready with more than a lift ticket and the season’s latest gear. A physically prepared body will save its own butt over and over, managing and recovering from an infinite variety of terrain and snow conditions. Strength is important not only for your ability to recover, but also to truly feel the essence of skiing – speed, power, energy and rebound from arc to arc. With more strength comes confidence, and you’ll find yourself pursuing clean, powerful turns every run.
START WITH A 400-METRE RUN RUN FAST: You shouldn’t be able to hold a conversation. If you don’t have a way to measure the distance, run for approximately 1:30 minutes. Repeat the run after each round of the circuit on the next page for a total of four running intervals.
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PRE-SEASON WORKOUT EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Box/chair OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: Dumbbells ROUNDS: Complete entire circuit three times REST TIME: Transition from exercise to exercise efficiently, taking only as much rest as you need to perform the exercises with proper form. After each 400-metre run, take a water break and catch your breath. WORKOUT TIME: 60 minutes
5 3
SINGLE LEG DEAD LIFTS
15 REPS EACH SIDE
1
SINGLE LEG BOX SQUATS
15 REPS EACH LEG Stand with both feet on the ground. Engage your core, lift one leg and slowly lower yourself to sit on a box or chair until knee joint sits at 90 degrees or higher. Maintain muscle tension. Stand up without momentum: make your leg do the work!
MODIFICATION: STEP 1: Sit using both legs, come up on one. STEP 2: Sit using one leg, come up on two.
2
Stand on left leg, holding dumbbell in left hand. Lift right foot and slowly bend at the waist, pushing hips back until you feel a stretch in the back of your legs. Extend right hand to the side for balance, using a wall if needed. Keep back straight and hips square. Firmly ground toes and heel to the floor, squeeze left glute, pull shoulders back and rise up to standing, lowering back leg at the same time. Keep back and lifted leg aligned so that as you lower your chest, your leg follows suit.
REVERSE CROSSOVER LUNGES
30 REPS Cross one leg behind the other. Plant toe of rear foot and squat until front leg is at 90 degrees. Keep knee stacked over ankle to minimize torque on knee joint. Lower slowly, driving up with more energy to standing position. Alternate sides.
MODIFICATION: If you feel any joint discomfort, decrease range of motion or try taking a smaller step with rear foot.
MODIFICATION: Complete with no weight. Before adding weight, work to improve your balance.
PLANK SKI JUMP
30 REPS Start in high plank position and pull bellybutton firmly toward spine. Tighten glutes and squeeze legs together tightly. Hop feet outside of right arm, maintaining muscle tension in core. Hop back to plank and repeat on other side.
MODIFICATION: Instead of jumping, step right foot to right side, followed by left foot.
6 4
LATERAL JUMPS
20 REPS Jump from side to side, picking knees up high each time. Jump over a line or any object you like. Bend knees to land as softly as possible in a high squat position.
TUCK WALK
50 METRES Get into your best aerodynamic tuck position. Staying low the entire time, step forward slowly, deliberately planting heelto-toe to travel 50 metres. Keep muscle tension in the lower body as well as arms, shoulders and core. SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM | S–MAGAZINE
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// SKI TIPS FEATURING EDITH ROZSA
BOTTOMLESS BRILLIANCE
While some of us constantly seek out pristine powder, ready to spend our savings on cat or heli, others watch ski movies with powder dancing all around and wonder, how do they do that? Some adjustments are required from groomed resort skiing. Powder is deep and bottomless – there’s no firm surface to anchor your edges and stand strong against.
1. EQUIPMENT
First, you need long, fat skis. If the skis don’t offer enough surface area below you, there’s a chance you won’t go anywhere. I skied at Monashee Powder Snowcats in early December (see page 28) on a pair of 95mm underfoot, 175cm length skis. They were perfect for the conditions – a substantial base of more than 60 centimetres, and about 12 centimetres of fresh snow. I returned the following week to 70 centimetres of fresh, bottomless powder. I eagerly clicked into the same skis and immediately sunk to the point of being stuck. Luckily, the staff snowmobiled a pair of 115mm, 185cm rental boards to me and I was set. Use the right equipment: if you don’t have it, rent it.
2. FORM
How can you use those giant boards to your advantage? Think of them as a single platform, working as one under you, hip width apart. Imagine the movement you would have to make if you had two trampolines set at a shallow V angle and you were bouncing from one to the other, side to side. It’s a push-and-pull movement with your feet, ankles and knees. The quicker the movement, the quicker you will rebound to the other side, and in the deep powder, the shorter and more dynamic the turns will be. Don’t overdo it: less is more.
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3. ADJUSTMENT
Moving your hips to sit back while bouncing between those trampolines would take extreme strength. You would lack balance and coordination, and even the strongest individual wouldn’t be able to keep it up for long. Those big powder boards will float, eliminating the need to sit back to keep your tips up – that’s old school! Find your athletic stance that allows you to trigger the maximum amount of energy with the least amount of effort. That’s where you want to be, or work to get back to as quickly as possible.
4. REPEAT
Lastly, skiing powder is a feeling activity. Each turn is different, depending on whether you are skiing in gladed trees, on a wide-open glacier, on a moderate pitch or on a steep slope. Leave your hyperanalytical brain at home and feel what works best for you. Play around with different positions and various pressures. Know that what works for you is unique to you. When you feel that perfect turn, anchor it into your muscle memory and work to recreate it again and again.
Everyone can enjoy powder skiing. When it snows at your local hill, venture off the groomed terrain if just for a turn or two to experience the true pleasure of gliding through fresh powder, making your own tracks in the snow. – E. Rozsa
Photo by Grant Gunderson.
// PARTING SHOT
SNOWED IN Known more for its snow monkeys soaking in onsen (hot springs) than its powder, Shiga Kogen, Japan, was hit hard last season with piles and piles of snow. Here, a local digs out his car to head to work after nearly a week of storms accumulated metres of snow, shutting down transportation locally and in Nagano. “I’ve had over 10 trips to Japan and this was the deepest snow week I had ever experienced,” said photographer Grant Gunderson.
50 S–MAGAZINE | SNOWSPORTSCULTURE.COM