community Mile End to end Birmingham’s Jewish deli drought Montreal-style establishment to open by Railroad Park National magazines have lauded Birmingham’s burgeoning and diverse culinary scene, and this past year Birmingham’s Highlands Bar and Grill won the James Beard Award for Most Outstanding Restaurant in America. But Adam Grusin, who worked at two of the other celebrated restaurants owned by Highlands owners Frank and Pardis Stitt, felt there was a glaring hole in Birmingham’s culinary scene. With so many great chefs and international cuisines, how could there not be a Jewish deli? Nick Pihakis of the Jim ‘N Nick’s barbecue chain had that same thought. In the next few weeks, the deli gap will be filled with the opening of Mile End Deli, a Montreal-style establishment located in the LIV Parkside apartments, across from Railroad Park and down the street from Regions Field. The last local attempt at a Jewish deli, Max’s, closed in 2016. While Grusin grew up in Montgomery, he would often visit his grandparents, Phillip and Helen Grusin, in Birmingham, and they would go to Browdy’s, an iconic deli that closed in 2009 after almost 100 years. The deli experience “was ingrained in me in a very positive way,” he said. “They were an institution here for so many years.” Grusin started working as a barista at age 14, “which scared the hell out of me.” It wasn’t a good fit, partly because he couldn’t remember all of the details of each drink. He worked in restaurants all through high school, including at Chappy’s Deli in Montgomery. While attending the University of Alabama, he worked in restaurants the whole time. During his last year of school, he worked at Bottega in Birmingham, becoming sous chef, then chef de cuisine at Chez Fonfon for 12 years. Both of those restaurants are owned by the Stitts. Grusin learned a great deal under the leadership of the Stitts, saying they helped him grow both professionally and personally. They “helped me gain an appreciation for food, for French food, for ingredients, relationships with people who provide ingredients, with guests.” He especially learned to appreciate the “privilege” guests grant in affecting their day when they come in for a meal. About two years ago, he wrestled with leaving Chez Fonfon and pursuing the dream of opening a deli. He said it was not easy to leave Fonfon, as “it didn’t feel like work. You walk in and it felt like home,” he said. That is “the same atmosphere I want to create in the deli.” He started talking with Pihakis, who also
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September 2018 • Southern Jewish Life 29